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/_ 4TA-
COSMETICS
5'i*
A TREATISE
FOR
Physicians and Pharmacists
DR. HEINRICH PASCHKIS,
   Docent at the University of Vienna.
       NEW YORK:
WILLIAM WOOD AND COMPANY,
   56 and 58 Lafayette Place.
         1891. 
 
CONTENTS.
   COSMETICS;  A  TREATISE  FOR  PHYSICIANS.

               By Dr. Heinrich Paschkis, Vienna.

                         CHAPTER  I.
Introduction, .        ..........5

                         CHAPTER  II.
The Skin,............28
    Water.............51
    Soaps,............55
    Fat,.............69
    Grlycerin.............79
    Alcohol,............81
    The Alkalies,  .        .........82
    Acids,............87
    Balsams and Resins,........    .   97
    Agents Irritating the Skin,........101
    Iodine Preparations,.........103
    Sulphur and its Preparations,.......104
    Metallic Salts,...........108
    Powders and Cosmetics,........116
    Perfumes,............136
    Deodorizing Agents,.........140

                        CHAPTER III.
The Hair and Nails,..........141
    The Hair,............141
    Fats,.............151
    Agents for Drying the Hair and Removing its Fat, .    .    .   155



           :r  - 
iv
Contents.
                                                              PAGE
    Agents for Increasing the Growth of the Hair,    .    .    .   160
    Hair Dyes,...........165
    Inorganic Dyes,..........169
    Depilatories,...........176
    The Nails,...........180

                         CHAPTER
The Mouth,...........    .   187
    Neutralizing Agents,.........196
    Astringent Agents,..........197
    Antiseptic Agents,..........199
    Polishing Agents,..........203
'^Vy 
COSMETICS.
                     CHAPTER  I.

                     INTRODUCTION.

    The  minor ailments of which the following pages  treat
 have been neglected by medical science.  The literature upon
 the subject of cosmetics, which is quite abundant, is made up
 in part of  excellent works by manufacturers and pharmacists
 intended for others in the  same calling-, in part of treatises
 written by the laity for lay readers.  Even medical authors,
 as  is shown, for instance, by an early work of the old  master
 Dittl or a publication of Dachauer's, scarcely accomplished
 anything- except to copy recipes which could scarcely be uti-
 lized by the physician, from works such as those  described
 above.   There have been a few authors—Auspitz, Pinkus—
 who have treated of limited provinces in this field in medical
 monog-raphs.   Still the physician is wrong- in overlooking- the
 study of the science of cosmetics, for with a knowledg-e of this
 he cannot only be of service to patients who suffer from slight
 blemishes,  but  he can also  guard them against dangerous ex-
 periments.
    With this idea in view,  I have endeavored to present the
 outlines,  in which shall be found the methods of action as well
 as the results of modern dermatology.
   In treating of the latter, I have  adhered to the teachings
 of the Viennese  school,  as can readily be imagined.  The
 views which the exponents of this school—Hebra and Auspitz,
 Kaposi and Neumann—have advanced in their works will be
found in the following pages.
   In reference to individual remedies and their modus oper-
andi and also the directions for use, I relied principally  upon 
6
Cosmetics.
 my own experiments, even  though the works  of Husemann,
 Vogl, and Bernatzik, and especially the technical treatises of
 Atkinson, Engelhardt, Hirzel, Piesse, and others, contain many
 valuable points.
    Most  of the  prescriptions  I  have had  prepared by my
 friend Mr. Steiden (pharmacist—Rathhausapotheke), and here
 I desire to thank him for his courtesy.  I employed the reme-
 dies on dead subjects and upon  the  living.  The  purpose of
 this book will explain why I have been indifferent regarding
 the perfume of the preparations.
    The historical introduction which follows, and which repre-
 sents the development of the science of cosmetics in stages, is
 far from complete.   If it were so, it would lead us far beyond
 the scope of this work.  Nevertheless, I hope these pages will
 prove interesting to the reader.
    It would be impossible to answer the question as to what
 constitutes personal beauty in a manner which would be sat-
 isfactory to everybody.  The physician defines this differently
 from the  artist; the philosopher has still another definition;
 youth decides differently from old age.  Beauty is " one of the
 great secrets of nature. We all see and experience its effects;
 but an exact general idea of its characters belongs to the un-
 discovered truths."1  Among the ancients, the Greeks consid-
 ered their ideal in a combination of goodness and beauty, x^akov
 xp.i ayadov, in like manner later authorities on art and philoso-
 phers found general beauty in "a complete harmony between
 the body and its component  parts/'   This, in its greatest de-
 velopment, required a state of perfection which is unknown to
 human beings;  but beauty itself had some of its greatest tri-
 umphs in classical ancient times, and its method of acquire-
 ment, apparently changing in subsequent centuries, really re-
 mained the same.
   As a rule, we cannot define our ideas of bodily beauty; the
 latter  is  not  "geometrically exact;"  if it were, there  would
 be no difference of opinion regarding it.  Ideas of beauty vary
 among different nations and among different races.   Even
 among the same nation,  opinions regarding human beauty
 differ.  Such  opinions depend upon individual taste and are
founded not only upon regularity of form  and on color, but
also on expression and grace, and  in addition are influenced by
the tyrannical laws of style. 
Cosmetic.
7
   It is obvious that beauty must be considered different]}* in
 one or the other  sex, in various races and at various periods
 of life.  The child, the young girl, the adult man,  the  old
 woman, each may be possessed of beauty peculiar to and cor-
 responding to  that period of life.  A European, a Persian, a
 Nubian—each may represent a distinct type of beauty, and
 yet we may regard them all as beautiful.
   Then we arrive at the influence of taste.   There can be as
 little question regarding what is customarily and habitually
 considered as beauty and the means employed to enhance this,
 as there can be any doubt about the use of ornaments (which
 are realty closely allied to cosmetics) and the  portions of the
 body on which we prefer to wear them.
   Though these differences in taste be ever so great, there
 exists in all mankind the science and the desire to ornament
 themselves, to improve the  beauty of body and face in order
 to appear more favorable in the eyes of male or female com-
 panions.  The means employed may differ, but the object re-
 mains the same.  A great many of the wild tribes paint the
 body with horrid colors, or make these  permanent by tattoo-
 ing,  or dig scars into the  body  (Nubians).  Leaving  out  of
 consideration these savages  who  paint  the  body different
 colors and apply red and blue or yellow  and white to the face,
 as the women of Greenland do, and regarding only the ancient
 races of  culture, it is astonishing how these procedures, gov-
 erned as they are by style, have been preserved. In the old-
 est 'historical times perfume was employed, color was applied
 to the face, hair was burned, crimped, and dyed just as is done
 now; even the same cosmetfcs are employed  now that were
 used centuries ago, though their number has increased.  These
 remedies either were guarded as business secrets by druggists
 and  physicians, or they were  promulgated from woman  to
 woman.  Curiously, there is scarcely any mention of cosmetics
 except those  used by women—they seemed to have an histor-
 ical right to use them; but in the case of the male sex, scarcely
 any are mentioned except perfumeiw and hair remedies.
   In ancient Egypt the young girls were in  the habit  of
 powdering and painting, of coloring their pale  lips, and  of
greasing their hair with odorous oils.  They also colored their
finger-nails and toe-nails orange with henna, just  as many
 Orientals still do.  (Among the educated Egyptians, in burial 
8
Cosmetics.
rites the endeavor was made to preserve the exterior of the
body as much as possible even with the mummies; hence such
bodies are found in which nails were colored red and others in
which they were gilded.  Perhaps Egyptian women also gilded
their nails during life.)  They were so well  up in these prac-
tices that they blackened the eyebrows and lashes in order to
brighten their glances.   Both remedy and method have re-
mained the same up to the present time.  Black sulphide  of
antimony (mestem) is employed not only by the Egyptians of
to-day under the name " kochl," but it is also used elsewhere.
The form of  metallic rouge-bottles which were sold in  Egypt
at that  time is about the same  as what we see  pictured  as
antique  salve-jars—alabastra. Even the stopper, elongated
into a stem to be dipped into the paint, was not missing.  Such
a holder tipped with  color was placed between the open eye-
lids, the  lids closed gently, and the mestem was rubbed into
the edges of  the lids and the lashes; then followed the paint-
ing of the lower lid and of the eyebrow.   A recipe for a hair-
dye is credited to Schesch, the mother of Teta, who was the
wife of the first King of Egypt; this is the oldest prescription
known.   The cosmetic  science of the  mouth was  also devel-
oped; to perfume the breath, it was customary to chew mas-
tich branches  or to use  cachous.  These pastilles were pre-
pared from  kyphi, an  incense, the recipe for which is still
preserved; according to Dioscorides  it was made of  honey,
wine,  raisins, large and small juniper, cardamom, calamus,
galange, rosin, myrrh, aspalathus, clover,  mastich, asphalt,
fig-leaves, sorrel.2
   The Jews learned these toilet customs, among other things,
from the Egyptians, and they carried  a part of this knowledge
with them.  Even  though some  of this knowledge was lost
during their  wanderings,  much of it was retained; and when
they settled and prospered and had more  and more intercourse
with other nations, the knowledge of these toilet customs was
applied more generally.   At first this was confined chiefly to
the use of odorous  salves and of perfumes  in general in the
observance of religious ceremonies, but afterward these were
also employed  in the houses and  as an adjunct in the toilet.
Consecrated oil was made  by digesting  myrrh, cinnamon,
cassia, and calamus in oil; this was used in anointing Aaron
and his  sons.  Later  kings were  anointed and finally oil was 
Cosmetics.
9
employed for general use.  This use of oil was considered a
luxury, or at least a sign of comfort, as is shown by many ex-
amples in the Scriptures: " Thou anointest my head with oil."
This is also indicated by the fact that the Jews and Egyptians
deprived themselves  of  this procedure when  in mourning.
(The Essenes were the only ones who did  not  anoint  them-
selves; they regarded it as uncleanly.)  As a perfume for pri-
vate  uses the  Jewesses3 used  henna  blossoms; they had
learned this in Egypt, but the plant also grew in Judea.  The
white  blossoms  are  agreeably fragrant.   It  is uncertain
whether  they also employed henna  as rouge, as was done in
Egypt; it is probable, for  they were familiar with the other
Egyptian cosmetics.  The paint for the ej'es—" mestem "—is
called  in the Scriptures  "kochl," a name  prevalent to-day.
Later, improvements in  the toilet  advanced rapidly, and in
the Scriptures  one  of the  prophets makes a comparison to
courtesans, among whom such embellishments were probably
most frequently found.
   Besides henna and kochl, another  toilet article was men-
tioned; it was called "puch," and probably it was also an ex-
pensive paint or perfume (2 Kings, ix. 30; Jeremiah, iv. 30).
   The third daughter of Job was called Keren hapuch (Job,
xlii. 14), which means " paint-jar."  The more the Jews mingled
with other nations in commercial pursuits and then in wars,
the more extensive became the use of cosmetics which were
quite common among the Persians and the Babylonians.  Cer-
tainly no lady ever consumed a longer time in completing her
toilet than did a maiden intended for King Ahasuerus (Esther,
ii.).  She required one }Tear to  finish this noble object; for six
months she was perfumed with balsam and myrrh and for six
months more she was embellished.  So that  she probably
understood the art of using cosmetics and its secrets.
   Among the Greeks and Romans, too, the science of cos-
metics was  looked upon  very  favorably.  At first, as far as
literature enables us to estimate, it was quite simple and was
limited to abundant bathing and anointing  the body after the
bath.  At first the anointing was done with simple oil or lan-
olin.  Odysseus returning as a beggar received  a foot-bath
followed  by an anointing with oil.  Penelope  was anointed
while asleep with ambrosial oil of Cytherea. Later, odorous
materials were added to  the oil;  then the  plain oil was used 
10
Cosmetics.
as a hygienic remedy—by men after bathing or before battle;
the artificially perfumed oil, " myron," which the  Greeks be-
came  familiar with from  Asiatic races,  was  considered an
article of luxury.   Apothecaries  sold not only medicines, but
also cosmetics.  The use of these perfumes became so elabor-
ate that different varieties were  applied to different  parts of
the body; thus, Egyptian  salve was  applied to the feet and
thighs, Phoenician  salve for the chin and breast, sisymbrium
salve for the arms, amaracus salve for the hair and eyebrows,
serpyllon salve for the  knees and back.  During this later
period the women of Greece probably also painted.  They were
also familiar with  " diapasmata," which was made from fra-
grant flowers and  other substances  powdered and was used
to absorb the sweat, to perfume the bed, and finally to per-
fume clothes, being made  into bags like the sachets now em-
ployed.
   The odorous salves were of firm and of fluid consistence;
the former seemed to be used for inunction, the latter as per-
fume.
   The Romans acquired the knowledge  of this luxury from
the Greeks and extended it after their power became so great,
until finally it acquired a degree of perfection almost abreast
of that of  to-day.  Catullus,  Ovid,  Martial, Petronius,  and
Lucian give such complete recipes and directions that we  can
readily imagine the toilet  of a Roman lady and possibly also
that of a Roman " incroyable."4
   In the evening the face was covered with paste, consisting
of crumbs of  bread in milk (poppeeana) or else of fatty beans,
•■ aut tegitur pingui terque quaterque faba" (Ovid).
   This not over-appetizing (nee amabilius) coating was re-
moved in the morning by water, or by an emulsion prepared
with ass' milk (Poppsea, the wife of Nero, is said to have had
one hundred  asses with her constantly) or with lait  virginal
(myrrh and corn).
   Many ladies were afraid of water or of fluids in general for
their toilet, and removed the perspiration accumulated during
the night by  using powder (diapasmata).
   Besides  these  simple   remedies, many  ladies employed
others which were more complicated and which were recom-
mended as beautifying agents.  Ovid gives many  examples in
full: 
Cosmetics.
II
          Hordea, quae Libici ratibus misere coloni
            Exue de palea, tegminibusque suis
          Par ervi mensura decern madefiat ab ovis
            Sed cumulent libras hordea nuda duas;
          H«c ubi ventosas fuerint siccata per auras,
            Lenta jube scabra frangat asella mola
          Et quae prima cadunt vivaci cornua cervo
            Contere.  In heec solidi sexta face assiseat.
          Jamque ubi pulverese fuerint contusa farinae
            Protinus in cumeris omnia cerne cavis.
          Adice Narcissi bis sex sine cortice bulbos
            Stenua quos puro marmore dextra terat.
          Sex tantemque trahat gummi cum semine tusco
            Hue novies tanto plus tibi mellis eat.
          Quaecumque afficiet tali medicamine vultum,
            Fulgebit speculo levior ipsa suo.
                          (Ovid, de medicamine faciei liber.)

  Barley, sent by ships, from the barn-floor of the Lybian farmer
    Is first separated from the chaff and  shelled.
  Then take ten eggs ; moisten the same quantity of peas;
    The grain itself must, however, weigh two pounds ;
  After you have dried the mass thoroughly in the wind
    The ass shall grind it slowly,
  And the horns which first fall from long-lived deer
    Rub together, take four ounces from the full pound ;
  After you have mixed this thoroughly with the powdered flour,
    You must bolt this vigorously through a curved sieve.
  Add the bulbs of twelve daffodils without scales,
    Rubbing them only in clean marble vessels.
  Then two ounces of Tuscan grains and gum,
    And pour in nine times as much  honey.
  If then you rub this mixture on your face
    It will become so bright that your own mirror will not be more so.

    Hands, face, and breast were rubbed with the fat of sheep's
wool.  Unfortunately they were not acquainted with the means
of purifying this, and its bad odor may have caused many a
fair Roman to regard its application as a disagreeable act.

           Non semel nine stomacho nausea facta venit.

    To remove the fat from the  hands, soap was used;  there
were  two sorts:  Gallic  and German.  The latter was  made
from  the ashes of  the  beech and goat's tallow, and was, ac-
cording to Plinius, considered the preferable.  After washing,
milk was poured  on the  hands and then they were dried upon
a fine linen cloth or in the hair of  a  boy.  When a bath was 
12
Cosmetics.
desired it consisted of meal (farina lupini), in order to make
the skin very smooth, and  it was often perfumed with oil  of
jasmine or similar perfumes; these baths were taken not only
in the bathing establishments, but also at home, in  the most
costly silver  extensive bath-tubs.  Then the nails were  cut,
and  marked  callosities were removed, undoubtedly by  skilled
hands.  During the banquet of Trimalchio, boys moved about
under the tables and attended to the feet of the guests, doing
this with special skill.
   Perfume, which constituted an important factor in  the
toilet, consisted of fragrant salves or oils. The latter,  which
were fluid and, as at the present time, used in atomizers, were
largely used as luxuries.
   Roses, violets from Athens, spikenard, and henna blossoms
from Egypt  served as sources of perfume;  these were used
not onby separately, but in mixtures, and the perfumers of that
period  were just as proud  of certain fragrant compounds as
those of the present time often are. They were valued accord-
ing to their  source or according  to the firm which prepared
them.  The names of perfumers who excelled and whose  manu-
factures  commanded a big price  have been preserved: Cos-
mus, Nicero, and  Aurelian  were  the Atkinson and  Lubin of
that period.  The manufacture of perfumes, at least that of
oils and salves, was very much like that of  the present age.
Ointments and  oils were  impregnated with delicate  odors by
maceration;  they were warmed in a water-bath and fresh
flowers added several times; they were prepared exactly like
the huiles antiques of the  French perfumers.  The  ancients
also  were aware  that certain very delicate odors  required
fortification with others  of a  more lasting quality to make
them more permanent;  oil of rose was mixed with andro-
pogon, oil of lilies with calamus and myrrh.  Alcohol was not
known as such, but  wine was impregnated  with  aromatics
and this was  employed by  perfumers;  this was used to  pre-
pare pomades.  An old recipe of Dioscorides, in whose materia
medica a great many superior prescriptions are found, gives
an excellent basis for ointments:  Deer or ox suet was melted
with a little  salt, after removal  of all foreign particles,  and
then poured into pure water, which was  changed frequently,
the fat being cleansed by kneading.  Then it was boiled re-
peatedly  with fragrant wine until the original disagreeable 
Cosmetics.
13
odor had  disappeared.  This basis for ointments corresponds
to our Adeps benzoinatus.  A great many oils were used, and
these were  prepared in other  ways—bleaching in the sun,
washing with water, etc.  Almond oil  from bitter almonds
(metopium), olive oil, oil  of ben, oil of sesame, nut oil, castor
oil, and juniper oil were all known and employed in the prepa-
ration of perfumery.
    As already stated, these scents were used liberally and,
later on, even too profusely  in a manner which would have
been distasteful to us.  It seems extraordinary to us to read
of the guests of Trimalchio having been treated  to fragrant
oil  so  liberally that they were soaked with it, and of costly
salves having been applied to the forehead so that they ran
into the eyes; for we do not now hear of any one perfuming
his guests.  But we must not forget  about the propensity of
the ancients for anointing the  body; and we should also re-
member that even at that time, ladies  and gentlemen who
were drowned in an excess of  oils and perfumes were ridiculed.
In addition, it may be stated that certain strong odors were
preferred for men, and others of a fine delicate quality, or mix-
tures, were  selected by women.
   The various cosmetics used in the care of the mouth were
very important.  The brushing of the teeth and the removal
of tartar belonged to cosmetic  procedures as well  as improv-
ing the teeth and drawing them.  They also  looked after the
odor of the  breath, and to improve this or to cover up some
disagreeable odor, they were in the habit of employing mouth-
washes prepared with saffron, roses, etc., or of chewing myrrh,
mastich, fennel, or costly preparations corresponding to the
perfumed cachous of the present day.  Any disagreeable odor
occasioned by food  or drink was remedied in the same man-
ner. Ladies and gentlemen wrere not satisfied with the reme-
dies of the ars ornatrix, but  not infrequently employed those
of the ars fucatrix.  White  and red  paint  was used  in  the
form of powder and of paste,  especially white lead and chalk.
For rouge,  among  other things, minium and carmine were
employed; and for blacking the eyebrows, burnt ant eggs
(Plinius) or  soot was used.  Frequently there were added to
face pastes substances that were of value or were thought to
be of value as cosmetics, just as is done to-day.  A favorite
remedy, the  value of which must be  acknowledged, was car- 
14
Cosmetics.
bonate of soda; this was named " aphronitrum."  Ovid gives
recipes for such beautifying cosmetics, and also for others con-
taining sal ammoniac.
   Like our own beauties, the Roman women attached great
importance to their natural or artificial  coiffure and to hair
ornaments.  They used combs of wood (multifido buxus dente)
or of ivory (morsu numerosi dentis eburno)  or of tortoise-
shell;  the  latter  were, however,  used  chiefly  as  ornaments.
They perfumed the hair with fragrant oil, used the curling-
iron, and had these curls extend low down on to the forehead
in front and  hang down  loosely behind, where at  the part
they were joined  to an artificial chignon by means of richly-
decorated wooden or  golden pins.  Finally a  net, the color
of which corresponded to the hair, was  placed over all.
   If in consequence of age, grief,  or  other causes the hair
had lost its color, dyes were resorted to.  A great many hair-
dyes  seem  to  have been used in  Rome;  among them there
were  some which are still in use, such as green nut-shells and
acetate of  lead.  A recipe of Plinius directs that the latter
shall  be made  by mixing  leeches and  vinegar together and
allowing them  to remain in a leaden vessel for two months;
it seems, too, that the " plumbea Nicerotiana " belonged to this
category.   We are ignorant of the nature of other remedies,
such as the " spheres of Matti" (coming from a part of Ger-
many near Wiesbaden).
   After the  Roman had  seen the blonde maidens of Ger-
many, blonde and red  hair  came into  style more and more,
and efforts were made to  bleach  the hair.   For this purpose
strongly-alkaline  soaps, especially  the German (spurna  ba-
tava), were used.  This or some other hair-dye seem to have
been  especially deleterious;  it greased  the scalp and favored
baldness.   This served as a subject for satirists as much as
the wigs which were worn not only on account of  baldness,
but also on account of desired color when  this could not  be
imparted to natural hair.  As  blonde  and red hair became
fashionable, wigs of these colors, especially those made of
German hair, became common and desirable.
   As is usually the case, this bleaching, which originally was
used  by a few elegant  ladies only, became exceedingly com-
mon  and vulgar,  so that finally it was a  specialty  with  the
demi-monde.   Hair-dressers had another important cosmetic 
Cosmetics.
15
occupation—epilation.   Ladies  had hair removed from  the
abdomen  and men from  the  armpits.  This was of greater
importance than with us; for  with few exceptions, hirsute ap-
pendages are only regarded as cosmetic errors when  they oc-
cur upon the face, neck, or, in the case of women, on the arms.
In Rome, where the left shoulder, arm, and armpit, together
with the back of the neck and the breast, were always exposed,
and the legs frequentty bare,  the removal of hair from these
situations was absolutely necessary.  At first this custom was
prevalent with women  only, but after  a while men  also re-
sorted to the procedure.  The razor was employed (novacula)
for coarse hair, as for  instance on the legs, or  else pumice-
stone was used in places of  more limited extent, as for in-
stance on the upper lrxjs  of women, around the nostrils;  fine
forceps were used on the  eyebrows (volsellas);  finally vegeta-
ble materials were used, especially upon the face; among the
latter class were psilothrum (Bryonia alba ?) and dropax (un-
known) ;  these seem  to  have  been  employed chiefly by
women.
   In addition  to these remedies, the Roman women were ac-
quainted with many other means of increasing their beauty.
Thus they used the breast-band (maxillare) to diminish the
size of a breast that was too large, and to retard its growth.
This was the analogue of the bodice, which is intended to give
the women of  the present period support, the wearing of
which is a custom which reminds one of the  costume of the
Bajadere Indians.

     Taurino poteras pectus constringere tergo
       Nam pellis mammas non capit ista tuas.—Mart, xiv., 66.
        You might bind your breasts Avith the back of a steer,
         For this leather band will not hold yours.

   Fascia, crescentes dominae compesce papillas,
    Ut sit, quod capiat nostra tegatque manus.—Mart, xiv., 144.
      Bind, restrain the growing  breasts of women,
        So that they may be grasped and covered by our hand.

   Even beauty-plasters  (splenia) were not unknown;  they
served partly to hide blemishes in the  face, just as they are
sometimes used at the present time, or else to add to beauty
by making the brow resemble the firmament. 
i6
Cosmetics.
   The subsequent  periods do not  present much literature
which would enable us to judge of the advance of the knowl-
edge of cosmetics.  It is certain that  this did not lag behind,
since a people or a nation that makes strides in the possession
of land and in culture, also progresses  in the enjoyment of the
luxuries of life.
   The Arabians were the successors to the physicians of the
post-classical period who are credited  with special knowledge
of cosmetics; they occupied themselves quite extensively with
this subject, which  was an evidence of the demand  for  such
services.   Four hundred years later, we still find  cosmetic
prescriptions in the works of French physicians: recipes of
Rhazes  (end of ninth and beginning of tenth  century), of
Avicenna (end of tenth and beginning of eleventh century), and
of Mesue (probably Mesue the younger, eleventh century).  Be-
longing to this period is a work which is very interesting to
us,  by the famous Trotula,5 "De mulierum passionibus," and
which also contains cosmetic  prescriptions.   Another work,
" Practica Trotulae  mulieris Salernitanse de curis mulierum,"
deals chiefly with this subject;  and a third, also from Florence,
is partly devoted to it, " Trotula in  utilitatem mulierum et
pro decoratione earum scilicet de facie  et de vulva earum."
The diseases of the skin of the face and cosmetic remedies are
also spoken of in  an anonymous work of the twelfth century
of the Salernitan school, " De eegritudinum curatione."
   The greatest surgeon of the middle ages, Guy de Chauliac,
furnishes material for admiring his extensive knowledge of this
subject in a chapter of his " Grande chirurgie."6  We observe
also that it was not beyond the province of so  celebrated a
physician to notice these minor affections of man.  With the
exception of a few prescriptions of a peculiar nature  inherited
from the ancients, all of his directions are excellent and many
of them are still followed at the present time.
   In the chapter " Pour  embellir et  faire bonne couleur "■ he
recommended paste made from beans, wheat, rice, or almonds
with milk; these were  to be applied  to the face over night.
Lead  and sublimate  ointments were also recommended for
the same purpose.    The method of applying  powder  and
paint is  presented  in an excellent manner: " La maniere de
farder ou embellir est, que le visage soit premierement  estuue
puis soit laue avec du sauon destrempe en eau tiede." 
Cosmetics.
17
" Le visage estant essue, qu'on y applique vn des susdits vng-
nents et qu'on l'y laisse toute la nuict.   Landemain soit laue
avec eau de son, ou de violettes et que le visage demeure quel-
que peu de temps couuert d'vn drapeau.  Puis si vous voulez
donner couleur aux joues mouillez de l'eau d'alum, en laquelle
ou ait destrempee vn peu de la ratisseures de bresil."
   For the cure of facial blemishes there were recommended
calcined  tartar, litharge ointment, lait  virginal made  from
litharge dissolved in vinegar and mixed with  salt-water, and
especially a paste recommended b}* Rhazes and Avicenna, pre-
pared as follows: One drachm of mercury and three drachms
of almonds are rubbed together until the mercury is no longer
visible; then an  equal amount of pulverized  melon seeds is
added and mixed. This paste was to be applied seven succes-
sive nights and  washed off in the morning with lukewarm
water.
   Guy also paid attention to the hair.  For cleansing, he re-
commended washing with egg or with soap, either soft (Sar-
rasin) or hard (Francois).  To prevent the falling of the hair,
myrrh and labdanum with vinegar and wine; this was  to be
followed bjr washing.  Alopecia areata was treated with sul-
phur, euphorbium, staphisagria, and cantharidal oil—remedies
which we are unable to improve upon five centuries later.
    It need not be wondered at that there were some peculiar
medicaments;  the greater  portion of  these,  however,  were
quite rational.   An example of such a peculiar "mixtum com-
positum " is the following, which was recommended in alope-
cia : " Echini with their coverings, green galls, bitter almonds,
bear's hair, adianthum,  rattan root, fig-leaves, of each two
drachms; rat fasces, one drachm soaked in vinegar; cedar-resin
and bear's grease, sufficient to make a soft ointment."
    In dyeing the hair, a wash of  alum  dissolved in  lye was
first employed.  The women of Montpellier, the city in which
Guy  practised the longest, added lavender flowers and broom,
and the Parisians added gentian, berberis root, and carthamas
to  this lye (undoubtedly for  bleaching).  To color the  hair
black, among other  remedies, oil which had been mixed with
lead  in a leaden vessel  was recommended  (plumbea  Nicero-
tiana!).
   Five methods are mentioned for removing hair: Cutting,
shaving, epilation with forceps or with the fingers, pitch, and
          2 
i8
Cosmetics.
 depilatories.  Orpiment with lime is the only example men-
 tioned in the last class; this was to remain on the skin as long
 as it took to say a miserere;  after washing off, the skin was
 to be treated with oil of rose or white ointment.
   The Renaissance period occasioned a stimulus among the
 petty arts of applying cosmetics.   Giovanni Marinello, a phy-
 sician  who  also wrote a very good  book on  obstetrics, pub-
 lished  a treatise on "Cosmetics  for Women"7 which he dedi-
 cated  to Signora Vittoria and  Signora Isabella  Palavicine.
 In the preface the author justifies his writing in quoting Ovid
 that one is but doing right  and pleasing God in treating of
 the beauty which He had given and in trying to improve upon
 it by art.
   At  first general remedies are given: Perfumery for various
 purposes, aromatic baths to keep the skin youthful and fresh,
 and remedies which were supposed to make certain parts of
 the body stout and others thin.  Medicines to  prevent hyperi-
 drosis  and  bromidrosis—myrtle  leaves  in  wine or sweat-
 absorbing powders of roses, spike, and myrrh.
   Among the general beautifying remedies are reckoned the
 powders and paints—cerussa of marble, cerussa of stag-horns,
 and litharge in vinegar—then also rouge.   The  custom  of
 painting and powdering grew in style during this period, and
 not only the face, but also the neck and breasts were covered.
 Thus Cesare Vecellio, a nephew of  Titian, writes: " It is easy
 to recognize the prostitutes who come to Venice from  other
 places.  They are very bold  and show not only their face, but
 also a large part of their white-powdered breasts."
   Pigmentation of the skin, scalding, freckles, and roughness
 of the  skin  of the face were treated with borax, alum, lead,
 and nitrate  of silver; the last was  mixed  with  hen's blood
 (Cotture o sufferse nate del feruore del sole, Lentigine, Macchie
fatte del sole, La pelle grossa  della faccia con quali modi si
possa fare  sottile, chiara e  morbida).  Solution of carbonate
of potassium, lemon-juice, and powdered snake-root were also
recommended for these defects.  Marinello  treated  the cos-
metic defects of  the mouth, especially chapped and pale lips,
in a very sensible manner—also the gums and teeth.  Concern-
ing offensive breath, he remarks that if this be due to retained
particles of food, poor teeth, or diseases  of the gums, it may
be cured, but not in cases having a different etiology. 
                         Cosmetics.                      in

    He also recommended remedies to cause  large eyes to be-
 come small  and small eyes to become large; belladonna is,
 however, omitted from the latter  category, although it was
 sold in Venice under this name about this time.8  The chap-
 ter on hair  is very full.  In treating falling out, he  recom-
 mends rubbing with oil, then washing with acetosa (species
 of rumex containing tannic acid), and " mirobalanen " (also as-
 tringent). To promote the growth of hair, he speaks of dried
 and powdered frogs, lizards, etc.; remedies are also mentioned
 which are intended to make the hair long and soft and curly;
 also remedies for eyebrows and eyelashes.   Hair is removed
 by lime  and orpiment.  Hair-dyes were important  remedies
 at this time, especially the bleaches.   Though black was also
 produced by iron, sal ammoniac, galls, and the various prepa-
 rations of lead, and though hair was also dyed white and red,
 the principal color was blonde.  The patrician women of Ven-
 ice colored their hair  as the Roman females had done; later
 on  the prostitutes also dyed their hair.  A long time after-
 ward this style for bleaching hair pervaded France, though it
 never became as general there as it had been in Italy, where
 they had reached  a  degree of perfection in  colors  which, if
 portraits of that period can be believed, has not been equalled
 since (examples may be  seen among the  portraits of women
 by Palma Vecchio  in the Belvedere of Vienna);  the wonder-
 fully warm tone with beautiful reflexes, filo d'oro, or the less
 admired ash-blonde is really incomparably beautiful.  Recipes
 for these dyes existed in large numbers, and they probably
 accomplished their purpose, though we are not quite clear on
 this point.  Marinello recommends chiefly ashes  of  vines, an
 infusion  of lupine made with saltpetre, or alum  and ashes,
 saffron  and  madder or burned wine-sediment with sperma-
 ceti or oxide of lead and chalk and lime.  In " Recettario della
 Contessa Nani" there is a prescription calling for two pounds
 of alum,  six ounces of black sulphur, and four ounces  of honey
 —added  to water and distilled.  Fioravanti advised washes of
 infusions of silk-dyes in which calcined tartar was dissolved;
 or a wash with soap followed by the use of a mixture of strong
 lye to which tartar, rvy, and barley had been added.  The ap-
 plication of these remedies was not a very simple one.   Ce-
 sare Vecellio  describes how ladies who wished to bleach their
hair had  to spend their time upon the terrace-tops of houses; 
20                      Cosmetics.
the hair was washed and then soaked by repeated combing
with the coloring fluid.  During all this time, and for hours
afterward  until the hair was thoroughly  dried, they were
compelled to sit in the sun so as to fix the  color.  On this
point all authors agree.  Alpinus (1592) also  mentions it  in
connection with the employment of henna; he  recommends
this to ladies, pro deaurandis capillis, as something harmless.
To protect the complexion during  this lengthy  exposure  in
the sun, they wore peculiar hats without crowns and with
wide brims;  the hair was allowed to fall over the brim from
above.9
   At  this time the endeavor to improve feminine beauty was
not confined  to toilet specialists, but was part of the work of
physicians and artists.  The latter were not averse to paint-
ing according to all the rules of art.
   Even Giov. Baptista Porta,10 a prominent scientist and one
of the most  noted physicists of his day, did  not  consider it
beneath him  to give quite extensive  formulas for beautifying
remedies.   He shows a familiarity with the older authors and
cites Dioscorides, Plinius, and  later  Trotula;  but also  gives
the results of his own  experience.   These  directions  are en-
tirely similar to those of Marinello;  some are  remarkable on
account of being rational, others because they  are so singular.
   To whiten the face, all things that were white were consid-
ered of value.  Thus snails, because they leave  a silver line
behind them; pearls dissolved in acids  and rotted in manure
produce a brilliant oil which was recommended as one of the
best things for the face; carbonate  of lead; sublimate.  The
face was to be cleansed  first, so as to take the coating easily.
To make the face soft and pliable, he prescribed  milk, a paste
of milk and bread, and gelatin.  As rouge for the face, sandal-
wood in vinegar and alum, dyer's  weed, and anchusa were
recommended.  Sunburn, especially  in travelling, was  to  be
guarded against by the use of a paste of starch and white of
egg; this was to be washed off with barlej'-water after the
patient had  arrived.  Facial blemishes required daily inunc-
tion with oil  of tartar  for ten days, the face remaining un-
washed in the mean while; acetate of copper, ammoniated
copper, and corrosive sublimate were also used  for this pur-
pose.  Moles were removed with aqua regis or with ^Eliani's
" leonis adeps:"  " Within the skin  inclosing the testicles is a 
Cosmetics.                       21
soft  and delicate piece of flesh  shaped like a grasshopper;"
this was rubbed up into a salve with oil of rose.  Other moles
were treated with mercury dissolved in red wine.  Wrinkles
were treated with water distilled with phaseolus, verbascum,
or polygonum  in Grecian wine with lemons, or pastes made
with deer-horn, white lead, sal ammoniac, myrrh,  incense, and
honey.  Tooth-pastes were made from toasted bread with salt
and honey.  For keeping the hands white and soft, almonds,
cembra-kernels, melon or pumpkin  seeds were used instead
of soap, and then the hands were smeared with salves made
of butter, wax, and sweet almond oil and covered with gloves;
these gloves were washed in Grecian wine and then soaked in
this  salve  before being used.  The offensive odor from the
axilla was relieved by the use of powdered myrtle-blossoms or
washing with solutions of alum or of acetate of lead. Exces-
sive  development of the breasts was treated with  applications
of conium;  soft and  hanging breasts with  white clay, galls,
mastich, and incense.  Hair-invigorators were honey and oil,
singeing with heated nutshells and horse-grease; there were
well-known depilatories—epilation—and then to  prevent the
regrowth of hair, hyoscyamus, cicuta, ivy, etc.  The hair-dyes
were well known—acetate of lead and acorns in wine for black;
lye, alum, and tartar for blonde; to produce the  latter color,
there was  also recommended washing with  lye of ashes and
bleaching in the sun; finally also the vapor of sulphur placed
upon live coals;  for red hair, strange to  say, alcanna boiled
in lye.
   About this  time  Italy was the blessed country.  Artists
and  merchants took  from it virtues and vices, the customs of
a  refined mode of life, and brought these  to  Germany and
France; and young men and women did not hesitate to adopt
at home what had been style in  Italy,  though this was modi-
fied a little so as to  prevent too  great a clashing with home
ideas.   This did not, however, prevent its progress, and the
young lady of the sixteenth  century could not  be without
toilet-waters of wine, primroses, dittany, and especially of
lemon-juice, upon her toilet-table; also fine flour from mustard-
seeds for rubbing the hands.  They made use of a fine napkin
or marten's fur to wipe off the perspiration, and  did not dis-
dain to use rouge made from snakeroot.
   These minor arts were carried into France by Catharine 
22
Cosmetics.
de Medicis and  by Marguerite de Valois.   The latter is cred-
ited with the introduction of blonde hair-dye, the former with
that of powder and rouge.   All these came prominently into
use in the beginning of the seventeenth century, and from this
time to the middle of the following century their use increased
very markedly.  During the seventeenth century ladies used
powder, " blanc d'Espagne," and rouge, " l'espagnol vermil-
ion," and numerous toilet-waters—some  perfumed, like " eau
d'ange," " eau de Chypre "—some emulsionized, such as " eau
de concombre," " eau  de f eves"—also  meat-juice and lemon-
juice. They dyed the hair blonde, in Venetian style; they
used curling-irons;  they wore the hair cut off close on the
forehead (as is shown in a picture by Racinet) and pasted
down—just as was done here until recently.
   Though the use of these remedies at this time was not so
very extensive,  there was considerable ridicule bestowed upon
it and attention was already called to the deleterious effects.
Thus Labruyere relates that at this  time (middle of  seven-
teenth century) women were spoiled \>y paints and cosmetics,
in painting lips, cheeks, eyebrows, shoulders, and even the ex-
posed breasts.   Powder, used as early as 1593, was employed
even more upon the skin than upon the head.   At this period
also ladies began to pay  attention to coiffure, and hair-dressers
became of such importance t  t they  took the most unheard-
of liberties.  Sieur Champagne gives an account of one of the
most celebrated among  them, who left the hair of  a lady un-
dressed without any reason; in another instance he refused to
finish his work until the lady had kissed him, etc.; notwith-
standing all this, he accumulated quite a fortune.  Ladies also
wore plain masks or  masks soaked in irritating fluids over-
night, so as to  stimulate the complexion.  This custom also
emanated from Italy;  originally, though, it was intended
simply to shield the face against the sun.
          " But since she did neglect her looking-glass
           And threw her sun-expelling mask away,
           The air hath starv'd the roses in her cheeks."
           —Shakespeare: The Two Gentlemen of Verona, IV., 4.
   In the early part of  the seventeenth century the  reign of
the mouche—the beauty-spot—began and increased  to such
an extent immediately that in 1634 an esteemed man asked in
all seriousness whether  women might wear more than three 
Cosmetics.
23
mouches.  Beauty-spots were supposed to make the eye allur-
ing and to enhance the beauty of the face—they were sup-
posed to be irresistible; the gallant might be ever so indiffer-
ent and proud—" enfin la mouche le pique."  These decorations
were  at their height at the time of the Allonge wigs; the
material was black silk, satin, or taffeta.  At  first they were
worn, just as they had been by the Romans, to cover blem-
ishes, and they were then small and shaped according to the
spot they were  to  hide; but later they had all shapes—cir-
cles, stars, semilunar, silhouettes, peculiar figures.  A certain
Duchess of Newcastle wore  upon  her forehead one  of these
beauty-spots representing a coach and four horses, a driver
and footman.  The form was not a matter of indifference; a
round spot was  appropriate for the chin, a star-shaped spot
on the cheek, semilunar ones beneath the eyes; in the depres-
sion formed in laughing, there belonged one called " Venjouee"
at  the  side of the lips " la coquette" (also called precieuse
and friponne);  upon the  forehead " la majestueuse," and a
large plaster called " enseigne  du mal de dents" upon the
right temple.  One day the beautiful Mme. Cazes appeared
with such a beauty-spot  surrounded hj diamonds.  These
various forms also had special purposes—the long one was for
balls; the large, broad one for court; the small, coquettish one
was intended for the street, the tete-a-tete, or for the banquet.
The most  important of them all  was  the  one worn  at the
angle of the eye, the " assassine."

         "You may have your hair dressed as you wish,
           With curls falling upon the breast;
           Nothing but the beloved assassine,
           Will rouse the love of men." n

   The  number  of them  constantly increased; six,  twelve,
fifteen, and even more were worn, according to fancy.  At the
end of the  seventeenth and beginning of the eighteenth cen-
tury they were absolutely indispensable to the elegant woman.12
   This entire period was a precious one for toilet arts.  It is
wonderful that rouge and all such toilet aids  were tolerated,
though it was just at this time that  clearness of complexion,
"teint de convent," was valued so highly that even old ladies
wore masks to shield the face from inclement weather.  There
were hundreds of pastes, essences, beautifying liquids, white 
24
Cosmetics.
balsams, waters to redden the skin of the face—others to whiten
it—others to soften it—to preserve the delicate teint of lean
persons—to restore the complexion of the twentieth year, and
waters for blemishes, freckles, wrinkles, etc.  Then there were
mouchoirs  de Venus and bands impregnated  with wax  to
cleanse and polish the skin of the brow. Gold-leaf was warmed
in a lemon at the fire—a preparation intended to give an ex-
traordinary polish to the face (un lustre surnaturel).  There
were a great many recipes, salves, and pots for the hair, nails,
and teeth.  The paints were of the most  importance—chemi-
cal white—blue for veins—red, vegetable or mineral, or  scar-
let.  The application of rouge was no little task; it was not
only necessary to put  it on, but it was expected to be expres-
sive :  " Le grand point est d'avoir un rouge, qui dise quelque
chose."  It was expected to be a distinguishing feature of the
wearer: a lady of society did not wear the rouge of  the court
lady; that of a peasant woman differed from either, as did
also that of a prostitute; these merely had a trace of red: "II
n'est qu'un soupgon de rouge, une nuance imperceptible."  On
the other hand,  a very intense red was worn  at court, which
was still more pronounced on the day of presentation; it was
rouge  d'Espagne and  rouge de  Portugal en  tasse, and
though  this scarlet made all surroundings yellow, ladies wore
it so as  not to appear pale.
   It seems almost incredible  that they used violet color for
a week  and then changed  to red, changing off with rouge de
serkis.
   Even during the night a light red (un demi-rouge) was
applied; even the youngest girls had to apply rouge, for that
was  style.  Eyebrows and eyelashes were colored with anti-
mony, and thus apparently the eyes were lengthened and made
to resemble the  Orientals  or  even the  Chinese.  They pow-
dered the hair—their own as well  as the false, for the women
of 1750 began to wear wigs and braids.  This was done partly
to dry the hair after dressing, partly for  decoration. White,
gray, red, and fire-red powder was in use.   The entire cosmetic
art was known and employed.  Men even epilated all over the
body: " Dans le grand, le tres grand  monde  peut-etre  seule-
ment chez les princes  un usage conserve de l'ancienne galan-
terie  exigeait du marie  qu'il n'entrat dans le  lit de sa femme
que le corps coinpletement epile.  C'est  ainsi que M. le due 
Cosmetics.
25
d'Orleans au temoignage de M. de Valengay qui lui donna la
chemise, se presenta dans le lit de Mme. de Montesson."
   Men took part in  these accomplishments in other ways.
They decorated themselves and  improved  their appearance
artificially so as to look  their best:  " Et pour faire Fillusion
complete .  . .  il en est qui . . . se  griment, qui se platrent,
qui se depoudrent  les cheveux, qui se palissent, en  se privant
du vin . . .  avec  de la gomme arabique delayee ils se font
sur les joues des traces des larmes mal  essuyees."
   This period, which the brothers Goncourt13 describe so well,
did not  last long.  In 1760 there was  a return to nature, or
rather to artificial nature.  Ladies wore their hair free, combed
almost in antique style.  The teint  de  convent was as highly
prized as before;  but those who did not possess it did not use
eau de chair, but ordinary water, to preserve the delicate com-
plexion of  a thin  person.  Of course rouge was still applied,
because the dull, pale complexion was not fancied any longer;
they preferred the natural red.   The very voluminous use of
powder on the hair also disappeared. Ladies'found that paint
made the features coarse and hard, and that it made the faces
of blondes insipid and those of brunettes darker than natural.
They then  employed only a trace  of  powder, to which was
added only a  small quantity  of blonde or red powder. The
application of face-powder has remained like this during the
nineteenth century.  Even though there was now  and then a
sort of return—the gold and crystal powder used  in  the six-
ties may be remembered—this was always transient, moder-
ate, and not excessive.
   A real progress during the latter half of the sixteenth cen-
tury is represented b}' the  bath.  As far as we can tell from
literature and from works of art, the use of the bath at home
died with the Romans.   Even the public baths in regions of
mineral springs were given up later  or were forbidden by the
church.  Hieronymus forbade baths of all sorts after child-
hood;  they were  revived during  the Crusades, when the cus-
tom was again learned from the Orientals.  A domestic bath
in the fourteenth century meant a very thorough wash; bath-
tubs of  that period were merely large basins; baths were
taken  in castles, etc., in lukewarm  water.  Since they took
their baths, eleganty attired, merely bathing their feet, they
could do this and frequently did, in company.14 During the end 
26
Cosmetics.
of the sixteenth and beginning of the seventeenth centuries,
the public baths were interdicted by religious authorities and
were shunned on account of the fear of syphilis.   The few
bath-tubs which barbers had  in their rear rooms  were in-
tended chiefly for invalids.   Ladies could  not patronize these
baths.  Even toward the end of the seventeenth century, when
bath-cabinets were again put in  houses, these were not bath-
tubs in the  sense which we use  the  term to-day; they were
merely copper basins in which, with some  care, the feet could
be  bathed.15  These baths  were  gradually elaborated,  and
finally, in the latter half of  the eighteenth century, they  con-
stituted one of the great luxuries of elegant  houses.  These
bath-tubs were  rather  long and wide,  but  shallow, with
rounded bottom,and were just about right for a "half-bath"
(baignoire a la Dauphine Marie  Antoinette).  They  were in-
tended especially for  compound cosmetic baths containing
milk and almond-paste, eau de chair, %nd other remedies.
   At the end of the eighteenth century the majority of beau-
tifying remedies  had been discarded; the  Parisian ladies and
those of Germany no longer used powder and rouge.  Simple
hygienic observances were recommended,  such as the evening
bath, rubbing with bean-meal, and covering the face with
cloths  soaked in wine, alum, and gelatin.  In 1788 an un-
known German physician cautioned the people against the use
of any cosmetics, even  those obtained from Paris, and recom-
mended baths as the only effective cosmetic.16
   The style of our century has changed much more rapidly
than that of the preceding century.  But cosmetic has re-
mained the same; the  excesses have been dropped; a certain
number of minor toilet accomplishments remain, and these
seem more rational through the progress made in hygiene and
the gradual knowledge of this by the public. Another portion
has become  the  exclusive property of the physician,  who is
able to improve upon certain errors of  nature through his
knowledge of dermatology.  In this respect the laity, and es-
pecially women, have  become superstitious and expect the
most wonderful remedies; this is as it always was.
   The Romans may have cleansed their teeth with urine sent
from Spain,17 so as to keep them nice;  but this appetizing
remedy is still used to  promote the growth of hair.  Poppasa
attributed her wonderful freshness of complexion to the use of 
Cosmetics.
27
milk /rom asses; Empress Josephine, the wife of Napoleon I.,
thought  her celebrated  complexion due to the use of milk
which was poured boiling over violets.
   In most of the proceedings which the physician undertakes
upon the surface of the body, the so-called  cosmetic relations
cannot be ignored.  There are a great many precautions and
rules for the preservation of beauty and  symmetry; these,
though not directly connected with cosmetic, have a certain
relation to it.  Cases occur quite frequently in which persons
suffer from disorders that are not particularly grave, in which
the physician can only get them to undergo the necessary
treatment by reminding them  of certain cosmetic blemishes
which will result in the absence of such treatment.  Inunction-
cures and Weir-Mitchell's cure are possibly cosmetic proceed-
ings, if regarded in this sense.   In the same way, the majority
of cases of curvatures of the spine  and of flat-foot which  are
scarcely perceptible to the unskilled eye are object for rational
cosmetic treatment.  Still such cases are considered quite re-
moved from what we  regard as belonging to cosmetics, be-
cause there are, as a rule, deeply-seated changes.  How nec-
essary is the knowledge of  the folds of the skin or of  the
growth of hair  to the physician, so  that  he may make his
incisions in minor  and  major operations  accordingly!  The
patient will be  all the more grateful to the physician  who
operates so that the resulting scars shall be imperceptible.
A number of physicians vaccinate on the lower extremity,
especially the leg, instead of on the arm.  When we  see  the
disfiguring,  large vacination-scar upon the faultless arm of
a charming young girl, we appreciate this  respect for human
vanity.  Many operations have for their sole object the es-
tablishment of some cosmetic improvement; this is often the
case when  the  operation can  no longer  re-establish  a lost
function.
   From the preceding it is evident how greatly the decisions
of physicians must be influenced by cosmetic considerations.
Were these pages to consider cosmetics in such a boundless
sense, the province would be far too extensive.  In the follow-
ing pages, cosmetics will  only be considered in the customary
sense—we shall consider only the skin, hair, nails, and mouth,
and the cosmetic remedies for these parts. 
CHAPTER II.
                        THE SKIN.

   In its  normal condition the human skin is smooth; it is
peculiarly soft to the  touch  and has a characteristic lus-
tre.  The skin of a  healthy Caucasian is in general of a uni-
form pale chamois color; it varies from a delicate, almost white,
yellowish-rose  to the peculiar brownish-yellow  suggesting
bronze of the Spanish, the Italians, and the southern Europeans
generally.  Particular portions of the surface of the body
possess a color differing somewhat from the rest.  Thus the
cheeks and the finger-knuckles have usually a livery red tone;
the portions of the body exposed to the influences of  the air,
the light, and the  atmosphere—that  is,  the face, the neck,
and the hands—are of a darker tone.   Apart from these influ-
ences the skin of the nipples and of the genitalia is dark.  The
skin does not appear smooth to the eye, but is provided with
a great number of  partly parallel, partly intersecting lines.
Finally, the skin possesses a certain motility and elasticity.
   These properties  of the skin are due to its peculiar struc-
ture.   Its softness, often compared to that of velvet, is to be
ascribed to the furrows and elevations made by the lines just
mentioned, which latter correspond in direction to the cleft
lines of Langer.  Besides this, the softness of the skin is due
to its  hairs,  and especially to those which, as lanugo—wool
hair—cover the so-called unhaired places.  There are also in
the skin small hollows or pores, which represent the openings
of the  hair-follicles  and of the  sebaceous and  sweat  glands.
Altogether the skin  is about one-tenth of an inch thick, and
consists of the corium and the overlying epidermis..
   The corium is made up of a dense regular tissue of elastic
fibres, and undor this a fibrillar  connective tissue, in whose
meshes, as well as in the cellular subcutaneous  tissue beneath
it, there is a considerable amount of fatty tissue. The skin
owes to the former  its pleasing roundness, to the latter  its 
Cosmetics.
29
elasticity.  The corium is united with the superficial portion of
the skin  by the papilla?, which fill out corresponding hollows
in the other.   These papillae contain either capillary networks
or nervous apparatus.  The rosy tint of the skin is produced
by the fine vascular network.  The bluish color of many parts
of the skin and  of  many individuals  does not come from the
capillaries, but from the larger and smaller veins which shim-
mer through the exceedingly thin skin of the parts and cause
them to  appear blue.
   The superficial layer or epidermis consists  itself  of two
layers, the rete Malpighi or mucous layer, and the horny layer
or stratum corneum.  The rete Malpighi sends from its lower
surface cones which fit into the hollows of the corium.  More
superficially there are cells which in normal persons of the
white races are  but slightly pigmented, but which in  certain
portions  of the body and in the colored races contain  quanti-
ties of brown pigment.  On the amount of this pigment, or
rather on the amount of this  and on the  capillary network
shining through it, depends the color of the normal skin.  Still
nearer  the  surface  are closely  united  prickle cells whose
function  is not yet clearly understood, and finally the super-
ficial layer is the stratum corneum, which consists of cells be-
coming ever smoother and dryer and more horny.  This su-
perficial  layer is continually being cast off and replaced from
below.   The rete cells gradually lose  their character and
become first  granular (layer of granular cells).  The granules
(keratohyalin, Waldeyer) are the first expression of the horny
change.  The second process is the appearance of a transition
layer, the stratum lucidum (Oehl).  The casting off of the epider-
mic scales is normally barely perceptible; it can occur under
mechanical irritation or friction; it  may be hastened or in-
creased by baths.   The cast-off scales are chemically similar
to horny matter, they swell in alkalies, etc.  The epidermis dif-
fers in thickness in different parts of the body; it is  thin on
the lips, thinner on  the flexor than on the extensor surfaces of
the body, it is thickest on the palms of the hands and the soles
of the feet.
   The lustre of the skin and its specific moisture are caused
by the secretion of its proper glands.  The sebaceous glands
are simple acinous glands which, in the case of the coarser hairs,
form appendages to the  follicle.   In some parts of the body, 
30                      Cosmetics.
as the labia minora, glans, prepuce, and the red border of the
lips, the sebaceous glands stand in no relation to the hairs.
They  are  completely wanting in the palms and soles.  The
largest are in the nose and lips.   Their secretion  is first fluid,
but during its stagnation in the duct it  comes to be a white,
tallow-like mass, which on pressure emerges with a  wormy
motion.  It contains fatty acids, soaps, cholesterin, albumin,
and salts, among which  latter  insoluble earthy phosphates
predominate.
   The sweat-glands are convoluted tubes, which are  largest
and most numerous  in the palms, soles, and axillae,  sparser
in the back.   They  are  entirely wanting  in the  glans, the
prepuce, and the border  of the lips.   They open  into the fur-
rows  between the papillae, at  regular distances in the pulp of
the fingers, in longitudinal rows on the palms and soles.  Their
secretion, the sweat, is mostly of alkaline reaction, but  often
acid  from the presence of the fatty  acids.  It  is generally
colorless,  somewhat cloudy, of salty taste and peculiar smell,
varying in different parts of  the body according to the vola-
tile fatty  acids present.   It contains neutral fats, cholesterin,
volatile fatty acids, traces of albumin and of urates, and some
salts, mostly sodium chloride.
    The human skin is normal when, fulfilling  all anatomical
and physiological requirements, it is smooth, soft, glossy, and
moist, delicately colored,  elastic  and tense.  Still  it  may not
fulfil  all  the aesthetic and individual requirements.  These
requirements, governed by taste and fashion, are different in
different  localities and at different times;  the individual re-
quirements are always the more exacting.
    The hardest of these to fulfil is the common longing for
perpetual youth.   Besides being normal, the skin must, at
least in its exposed  portions, be youthfully full, tense, fresh,
and fragrant.  At any rate, no anomalies, even  if they be so
slight as not to be pathological, can be present.  These anom-
alies  are  as regards color, lustre, smoothness,  the  covering
with  hair, the scaling off  of the  epidermis, the secretion of the
glands, and finally the elasticity and thickness.
    Changes in the color of the skin depend either on an excess
of the pigment existing in the rete Malpighi and in the corium,
or on a diminution or entire want of pigment.  Or it may not
depend on the  normally present pigment, but on  the increased 
Cosmetics.
31
or decreased filling of the vascular network, and at times on
the presence of a pigment coming from other parts of the
body or from without.  The overfilling of the capillaries causes
the bright red cheeks of young girls ; the general diminished
quantity of the blood, or especially the loss of blood, causes
paleness.  This is more intense when  there is a lack of red
blood-corpuscles or of blood-coloring matter, and becomes then
the cheesy-white  or greenish-gray chlorotic color.   Finally,
anomalies in the circulatory system, venous  congestion, may
produce that bluish-violet color which  is known as cyanosis.
An increased amount of blood in the vessels of the skin and a
healthy red color even without pigmentation may be caused
by living in the  open  air  and free light with corresponding
food; in confined places the complexion becomes pale from the
want of air, just  as do the leaves of plants.
   Cosmetic therapy in these cases limits itself to the regula-
tion of the manner of living; with anaemic and chlorotic per-
sons, as well as with patients who suffer from disturbances of
circulation,  the treatment is only  that usually employed in
these conditions.  Pale individuals may  increase their  color
by cold baths  and light  stimulation  of the skin.   In  many
persons one sees hyperaemia or anaemia localized to a small
region, which depends on a  dilatation or contraction of the
vessels of the skin through  nervous influences—angiospastic
and paralytic hyperaemia and anaemia.18  This may affect one-
half of the body, one extremity, a finger (erythromelalgia), one-
half of the face,  the nose, etc., and is found, especialby in con-
nection with other nervous  symptoms, in neurasthenic and
hysterical patients.  Ergotin, salts of bromine, sodii salicylas,
antipyrine, and especially the constant and faradic current, are
recommended for this condition, and  are often of service.
Arsenic in the form of the Asiatic  pills has been useful to  me
in a number of cases.  To this form belongs  also the sudden
paling or reddening of many portions of the skin  under the
influence  of moderately increased or  lowered temperature,
which condition also is to be  treated on general indications.
   Changes in the color of the skin which are caused by pig-
ment are either congenital or acquired.  They may appear as
discrete spots or  be extended over large surfaces.   The con-
genital pigment patches are  called naevi.   They vary in color
from light brown to dark brown or black, have a smooth sur- 
3 2                      Cosmetics.
face often covered with lanugo, naevus spilus;  or warty with
thick  brush-like hairs, naevus pilosus; or finally in the form
of flat or prominent tumors, naevus mollusciformis.  They are
permanent,  and occasionally, as in pregnancy, change their
color.  Of the acquired, the most important are the lentigines
and ephelides, freckles.  The former are spots varying from
yellowish to blackish-brown, lentil-sized or smaller, round and
often  elevated, which appear on different parts of the body and
are permanent.  While a single small black lentigo may add
a certain charm to a young girl's face, they may become very
unsightly when  they increase in size and number, as  is often
the case.  Face, neck, and  trunk  may be  covered with lenti-
gines which have developed into warts.  Although they com-
monly last to old age, cases are found in which a great num-
ber of the spots or warts disappear spontaneously without
leaving a trace. The ephelides are more  sure to disappear
with increasing  age.  These are much paler, yellow or yellow-
ish brown, frequently pigmented  irregularly; their  form is
round, but frequently irregularly  notched.  They are found
most  frequently on the alae of the nose, the cheeks, and the fore-
head, but more numerously on the rest of the body.  Freckles
also often reach above the level of the skin.  They no not owe
their  origin to the sun, as their distribution over clothed parts
of the body shows; still the season has a certain influence on
their  color, as  it has on other'skin diseases.  They  become
pale in winter and often vanish, to become again dark in  the
spring.   They are found both in brunettes and in blondes, but
are more frequent and intense in persons with a clear, trans-
parent complexion, most marked in persons with red hair, and
do not appear before the sixth or seventh year.
    The  more diffuse pigmentations are  called chloasmata.
Such  chloasmata are often symptoms accompanying many
chronic diseases and certain anomalies of internal organs, es-
pecially diseases of the uterus and its adnexa, and  chronic
disturbances of  digestion, also occurring in hysterical women
and in viragos, and often during pregnancy.  In  many  ca-
chexias, more or less circumscribed, yellowish-brown or dark
brown patches  appear chiefly on the forehead, on the upper
lip  or elsewhere on the face.   From their color they  are
called chloasma hepaticum, liver spots; and since they appear
with female sexual diseases, they are called chloasma uterinum. 
Cosmetics.
33
It has not been proven that these spots have any causal con-
nection with the diseases mentioned;  this belief would seem
to have arisen from the fact that they disappear when the
other disease is properl}' treated.  The fact that many chloas-
mata uterina disappear after delivery or after the climacteric
period also supports  this belief.  However, they cannot be
with certainty referred to these affections any more than they
can be brought into direct connection with liver diseases.
   Chloasmata appear also  after irritation of the skin.  This
may be either of a traumatic or a chemical nature, or may con-
sist entirely in a too high or too low temperature. The effect,
however, is constantly the same, the skin becomes hyperaemic,
in greater or  less degree inflamed, and pigment is  deposited
at the  affected spot.  The  longer the  condition of  irritation
continues, the older the pigmentation becomes, the slower will
be  the resorption.  After  chemical irritation the  chloasma
toxicum produced, may last for the patient's lifetime.  Such
toxic chloasmata are produced by sinapisms, emplastrurn can-
tharidis, emplastrurn  mezerei and croton oil, if the irritation
of the  skin be continued until vesicles are produced.  If the
application of such remedies continue only until redness  of
the  skin be  produced, no pigmentation occurs.  These reme-
dies cannot be avoided in practice, and the physician can only
see that they are not applied to portions of the skin which are
commonly exposed.
    As chloasma traumaticum  are designated those  discolora-
tions of the skin which are caused by continued scratching,
either in diseases  accompanied by itching or in habitual un-
cleanliness of the body (vermin).  Of special importance cos-
metically are the discolorations that arise in those parts of the
body which  are subjected  to  continued  pressure.   Pressure
from the natural dress may cause such discolorations on the
shoulders, the waist, and  the legs just  above or below the
knees.   The  discolorations  correspond exactly to the parts
compressed or are somewhat broader, and are gray, yellowish-
brown, or dark brown.
   Under the influence of  high or low temperature and  of
wind arises the chloasma caloricum, that peculiar red or red-
dish-brown discoloration of  the face, the neck, and all exposed
parts of the  body which is  called tanning.  Pigmentation  of
this sort is seen mostly in individuals who pass much time in
           3 
34                      Cosmetics.
the open air, as hunters, soldiers, and  sailors, or in persons
who are exposed to the light and wind for a short time, as
tourists, bicyclists, oarsmen, etc.   Chlorotic persons tan less
easily than healthy  persons;  even they finally  become pig-
mented, however.  It cannot  be  maintained that tanning  is
exactly beneficial to the bodily health.
   Those abnormal discolorations of the skin which are caused
by certain organic diseases, such as  morbus Addisoni and
icterus, would never be the object of cosmetic treatment.  I
shall merely remark here that after the cure of the disease
which has caused the icterus, the biliary coloring matter de-
posited  in all the layers of the cutis gradually disappears.  In
Addison's disease, however, one may expect neither the cure of
the disease nor the  resorption of the pigment, whose origin
and nature are still under discussion.
   Further should be mentioned  the discoloration of the skin
from foreign bodies.   Silver given internally may get into the
skin, the silver salts being absorbed, deposited in  some soluble
form in the tissues, and there being reduced to metallic silver;
or it may be introduced intentionally or unintentionally into
the corium. These bodies may be simply dark or be colored;
in the first case, they appear blue through the epidermis; in
the second case somewhat less intense in color.  Such discolora-
tions may arise unintentionally through the explosion of gun-
powder. They are produced intentionally by tattooing.  These
pretended  decorations  which soldiers,  sailors, and laborers
have put on their bodies partly from wantonness, partly from
superstition, are made by pricking the skin with needles and
then rubbing in the  color.   The needles  themselves are  often
dipped  in the color, or a paste containing this may be previ-
ously rubbed on the skin, so that the needle becomes charged
for each prick.   Carbon, gunpowder, cinnabar, and indigo are
the coloring matters most used.   The most frequent figures
in our  race  are names, dates, hearts, crosses,  and anchors
(faith,  hope, and charity);  in other  races complicated and
often artistically-drawn ornaments.  The attempts, by tattoo-
ing unpigmented portions of the skin, to produce  a color simi-
lar to  the normal, have not been very successful, chiefly be-
cause sufficient  pains were not taken to get the  proper color
mixture.  Where it  is  a question of intense color, as  after
plastic  operations on the lips, cinnabar gives a  satisfactory
result. 
Cosmetics.
35
   An abnormal color of the skin may be due to the lack of
pigment, either congenital or acquired.  The former is called
albinismus, which when total could hardly be the object of
cosmetic  treatment.   A partial  albinismus  is rare  in  the
Caucasian race, and its  treatment is the same as that of the
acquired loss of pigment, leucoderma,  This  is either  idio-
pathic or secondary.  The first sort, vitiligo, shows larger or
smaller circumscribed pale spots about which the surrounding
skin is darker, coming on without a recognized cause.  The
discoloration may remain stationary, or the spots may extend
so that finally they occupy the greater portion of the skin.
The cause of vitiligo is of little interest and is altogether un-
known; one  method  of  development should be noticed, and
that is the one in consequence of pigment hypertrophies in the
neighborhood.  Thus in the discoloration  from pressure of
the clothing, etc., described as chloasma traumaticum, central
or peripherally-located decolorations often appear, which either
remain localized or in time cover the whole  extent  of  the
chloasmata and become then surrounded by more intensely
pigmented skin. In consequence also of other forms of trauma,
such as burning, ulcers, stretching of the skin, and following
emaciation after obesity, ascites, and pregnancy,  discolora-
tions similar to vitiligo are observed.  No difference exists be-
tween  all these pigment atrophies as regards treatment.
   The treatment of discoloration caused by increase of pig-
ment comes within our sphere.  The true pigmentary naevi can
be removed only by surgical treatment, by means of the knife
or of  strong  caustics  such as  Vienna paste, hydrargyri
chloridum  corrosivum, and hydrargyri iodidum rubrum, or of
the cautery;  when they are extensive or when combined with
sarcoma, this treatment should not be used, and if they are
situated on exposed parts, there is nothing to be done except
to conceal them b}7" cosmetics .
   Lentigines when  very numerous may be  treated  in  the
same manner as the ephelides.   To cure these it is  necessary
to destroy the skin down to the rete Malpighi in which  the
pigment is deposited.   We employ either agents which cause
swelling and  exfoliation of  the  skin, such as  alkalies (soap),
borax,  weak acids, and sulphur, or agents which cause a deep
inflammation of the skin, such as concentrated mineral acids,
mustard oil,  croton oil, mezereum, cantharides, pepper, vera- 
36
Cosmetics.
trine, iodine, and mercuric salts. The first-mentioned of these
agents causing  inflammation may themselves cause pigment
hypertrophy  and should not  be used, although continually
recommended.  Plants containing acids and ethereal oils have
long been used for this purpose. A  paste composed of vinegar,
honey, and bitteral  monds has been recommended, also an in-
fusion of radish in whey, also the application of slices of lemon,
and under some circumstances these are successful.  These act
slowly, as do also the following agents: soap applications with
acidum boricum or  borax, washing  with spiritus saponatus
kalinis, pencilling with dilute acids, as sulphuric acid;  acidum
salicylicum and  veratrine act  more quickly, as does also hy-
drargjTi chloridum  corrosivum in 0.5-1$ solution, and white
precipitate in the shape of the well-known face pomade.  The
one-per-cent sublimate solutions may be harmful, even dan-
gerous, when used in the ordinary manner  for the rapid re-
moval of extensive pigment spots.  Here the skin  is  covered
with  a number of layers of linen which  are  kept  moist with
the solution for hours at a time, the patient lying down.  One
large or several small vesicles are thus produced, which are
opened.  An indifferent powder is  then sprinkled on the skin,
and after eight  da}7s the crusts exfoliate  and the underlying
skin is white and unpigmented.  This method is  similar  to
that of the French, which consists  in  the energetic pencilling
of the pigment  spots with a concentrated solution of iodine
in iodide of potassium.  To protect the surrounding skin, it is
recommended to pencil it with a thick solution of gum. In a
similar manner may be used  tincture of iodine, and  sulphur
pastes or soap used  as an application, and under this treat-
ment the epidermis  is raised in vesicles and cast off together
with  the pigment.   The spot  may also  be covered  with a
plaster of acidum salicylicum, which acts in the same manner.
   In using these agents, care is to be taken  that no eczema
be produced, and that the dermatitis brought on be properly
treated.  Applications of plumbi acetas or unguentum borici
were formerly used, salves and powders then being applied to
the reddened  and  exfoliating skin.   To  show  how many
agents may be  of use, James  speaks of  a French marquise
who went to her country-house every fall and rubbed her face
with green nut  hulls.  Her face became at first the ordinary
black color and then gradually exfoliated, leaving the skin 
Cosmetics.
37
entirely free from freckles and pigment spots.   This condition
lasted only to the following May.   All these agents  indeed
have  but  a  temporary effect.  The pigmentation  usually
returns.
   As we have seen, it is possible to get at least a temporary
improvement in cases of over-pigmentation;  this is, however,
not the case when there is a lack of pigment.  Those  agents
which inflame the skin cause a darker coloring of unpigmented
parts, but  this is not permanent, and is  not of  the  natural
color of the skin.  Tattooing has the disadvantage, that a color
mixture  corresponding  to the normal color of the skin has
not been found.   When there is a want of pigment, or espe-
cially a progressive  pigment  atrophy, it  is recommended  to
decolorize,  by one of the methods given, the intervening pig-
mented patches, which are sometimes dark, pigmented, and
always appear so by contrast.
   The gloss of  the skin may be increased or decreased.  The
skin shines when tensely  stretched, or when swollen by in-
flammatory products or exudations which have occurred  in
the corium, or when serous fluids infiltrating the subcutaneous
tissue, distend  it excessively.   In young, healthy individuals
having a considerable amount of subcutaneous fat, the skin is
more shiny than in  older  or in emaciated persons.   In this
case not only the tension  and elasticity of the skin is dimin-
ished, but  its peculiar lustre  as well; and the skin  becomes
dull,  faded, and flabby, and since  the color also undergoes
a change,  it  becomes sallow and  earthy.  The lustre of the
skin  is decreased b\'  visible  exfoliation, and increased by
hyper-secretion  of the  sebaceous  glands. Finally,  there  is
another change in lustre to be mentioned.  This  is the pecu-
liar shining appearance caused by  atrophy of  the skin.  The
most striking are those partial atrophies of the skin of the
abdomen which are called cicatrices of pregnancy. Similar to
these are the ruptures of the subcutaneous connective tissue
of the thighs and buttocks after pregnancy or obesity.  Fi-
nally, we should mention here the traumata  of the skin and
the localized atrophies caused by the separation of the deeper
layers of the corium under the normal epidermis. The pres-
sure of infiltrated tissues  after chronic inflammations of the
skin may act as a trauma, and cause an  atrophy with pecu-
liar changes  in  the  lustre of the skin.   This  is found espe- 
38
Cosmetics.
cially after chronic  eczema, recurring facial erysipelas, etc.
It is often  hard to decide whether a chronic eczema or a ner-
vous affection may have been the cause of this atrophy and of
this waxy appearance.
   Therapeutics are powerless against these changes, and the
lustre can  only be toned down by powders and  cosmetics.
These parts, however, are so smooth that  many powders do
not adhere  to  them, and here fatty powders  and fatty cos-
metics must be used. If the lustre be lost  in consequence of
severe illness or premature old age, much may  be  accom-
plished by proper treatment of the skin, and especially by the
methodic inunctions  of fat.
   The smoothness  of the skin, which is often mistaken  for
the lustre, is brought about by a number of factors as above
mentioned.   These are the thickness and tension of the skin,
the degree of its adherence to the underlying tissues, its fur-
rows and  depressions, its sebaceous secretion, and the slight
exfoliation  of  epidermis.  The two  latter factors  will be
treated  of later.  These atrophies of which we have  spoken,
when associated with considerable exfoliation, may cause a
striking smoothness of the skin.  Of importance are the fur-
rows  and wrinkles which time engraves in the skin.  These
are the most undeniable  sign  of beginning old  age.  Neither
general diseases nor skin affections  produce wrinkles of this
sort, which  appear in greatest number on  those parts of the
body which are most likely to be noticed and which  are the
hardest to conceal.  These are hundreds of small folds cross-
ing each other in every direction, at first very shallow and
becoming later veritable  furrows over one-twentieth of an inch
in depth.  If the skin have a delicate tint, it may still have a
youthful appearance, seen from the distance;  the deception
vanishes,  however, on nearer  approach.   The formation of
these folds and wrinkles depends on the loosening of the con-
nections of the  skin, on the disappearance of the subcutaneous
fat and connective tissue, further on  the flattening of the
papillae.  They begin first on  the neck  just below the ear,
pass forward to the  chin, and finally occupy more or less the
entire face.   The region of the outer canthus of the eye shows
especially converging folds.   Apart from  these wrinkles of
age, the skin of the  face becomes  furrowed, partly from bad
habits, such as  the contracting of the eyes in myopia, and the 
Cosmetics.
39
elevation or contraction of the forehead.  These furrows in the
face are also influenced undoubtedly by heredity; vertical folds
in the forehead running to the root of the nose are often  seen
in young children, folds which ordinaril}- are  caused only by
reflection, anger, and evil  thoughts.  Finally,  we may have a
traumatic or toxic wrinkle formation in individuals  who from
the requirement of the occupation or from vanity use powders
and cosmetics.  Most cosmetics containing metallic astringents
injure the skin if used  continuously, especially when the  skin
is not properly cleaned between the times of application. Since
these agents are used chiefly on  the cheeks, deep repulsive
furrows are often seen  in these very conspicuous places.
    What can be used  against wrinkles ?  Nothing, of course,
will prevent the increasing age.  For the wrinkles nothing can
be done except the using of cosmetics.   Thick fluid or fatty
cosmetics are the most satisfactory.  The application of the
former variety, in which the ground  tone is first laid on and
then the details added, has come to be an artistic work which
is called enamelling.   Faces so  enamelled cannot be distorted
either by laughter or  by the expression of  anger, since  each
muscular movement produces deep cracks in the paste;  and
the paste itself continually causes new wrinkles and deepens
the old ones.   The wrinkles may be less perfectly concealed by
the inunction of fat  and subsequent powdering, and still less
effective are the moist warm and fatty poultices employed in
the most  ancient times and ridiculed by Ovid and Juvenal.
These, indeed, loosen the skin, but after a short time the wrin-
kles appear more marked  than before.
    The  folds which  are caused by habit in  younger persons
may be more successfully treated.  Here may be used  any
tonic or astringent agent in the form  of a wash, which will be
more efficacious when the  habit causing the  folds  is given up.
In such cases direct mechanical means are recommended. It
may be  possible in children to get a permanent improvement
by  the continued application of non-irritating  plasters on the
fold previously smoothed out.  As  a  curiosity I give the fol-
lowing method: Two bits of plaster provided with silk threads
are stuck one on either side  the wrinkle. When the plaster
is dry the  threads are drawn tightly together and knotted
(Debay).  To  remove the  furrows  in the cheeks it has  been
recommended to carry wooden balls between  the cheeks and 
40                       Cosmetics.

teeth, but unfortunately the loss of the latter is a very fre-
quent cause of the furrows in the cheeks.  The wrinkles caused
by cosmetics can only be concealed by the use of cosmetics.
   The casting off of the epidermis is normally imperceptible,
but nevertheless constant.  Anomalies in this regard, how-
ever, are noticeable when the epidermis is cast off in  large
scales or fine dust. This cosmetic anomaly depends always
on an exaggerated or a diminished secretion of  the sebaceous
glands and is cured by treating the latter affection.
   The secretion of the sebaceous matter goes on as a rule
unperceived, yet the failure of  it reveals itself not only through
the lessened  lustre of the skin, but also by its  peculiar dusty
appearance in consequence of the perceptible exfoliation.  This
lack of sebaceous secretion, asteatosis, is a consequent or ac-
companying symptom of  other skin diseases, or may be caused
artificially by a number of  chemical agents,  such as hard
water, soap, and lye, which  rapidly saponify the sebaceous
matter. If  this continue, the condition may become chronic
and the skin assume that lustreless, dry, dusty appearance
already described.
   The increased secretion  of sebaceous matter is more often
seen  than the decreased  secretion.   The former condition is
called seborrhoea and comprises both the exit of the sebaceous
matter and its collection  in large masses on the surface.  If
the matter  be thick,  purely  oily, or slightly  consistent  like
varnish, the seborrhoea  is called oleosa.   In other cases it
comes from the glands together with epithelial  cells, or be-
comes so mixed with epithelial scales on the surface that the
masses form crusts, and the disease is called seborrhoea sicca.
Single portions of the skin or almost its entire surface may
be  attacked. The face is  often the seat  of the  disease, the
hands never. The favorite spots are the forehead, nose, and
chin, and the bearded  portions of the faces in men.   These
parts are  constantly shiny even after repeated washing, and
generally dirty from the adherence  of the  atmospheric dust,
or covered with  yellowish-brown crusts.  Although in  many
cases  the  cause  of the seborrhoea may be an inflammatory
disease of the skin, and  in other cases chlorosis or puberty
may produce it, still there  are a greater number of cases in
which no such cause can  be found.
    Apart  from  the cosmetic errors  which these  anomalies 
Cosmetics.
41
constitute, they require treatment often for the diseases which
follow them, such as eczema, comedones, and acne.  This treat-
ment must be of two sorts, according to the nature of the
disease.  The fat and the crusts must be removed.   If the
former alone be present, seborrhoea  oleosa, the use of  alcohol
or ether is often sufficient, or for a quicker effect the use of
alkalies, soaps, and borax, or combinations containing these,
such as spiritus saponatus kalinis.  In  the latter form where
the crusts are to be removed, frequent applications of  vegeta-
ble,  animal, and mineral oils are indicated.  This  does not
loosen the crusts themselves, but the sebaceous matter  holding
them together.  The debris is then  to be removed with soaps
or alkalies.  After these are once removed, we have before us
a simple seborrhoea oleosa, which must  be treated.  While in
general  it may be said  that seborrhoea is curable, there are
certain obstinate cases which are so resistant even to a long-
continued treatment, that they  recur as soon as the treat-
ment is left  off, so that such patients must be  kept under
treatment most of the time.  Frequently in young  females
the  change in sexual life may cause the disappearance of the
seborrhoea, and it  almost always passes off in age.  It  goes
 without saying that  when some underlying condition,  such
 as chlorosis, which might cause the disease, is present, this
 should also be treated.   Often such treatment alone is suffi-
 cient to cure the seborrhoea.
    It is impossible to cure the  lack of sebaceous  secretion;
 the natural fat may only be replaced by inunction.  If the lack
 of  fat  be caused by chemical agents, these should be avoided,
 or when this is impossible, the necessary fat should be applied
 to the skin after or before working with the chemical agents.
 In this case the saponification of this  fat protects the fat of
 the sebaceous matter.
    That form of disturbed secretion which produces come-
 dones is worthy of our attention.  These comedones are  from
 pin-point  to pin-head sized,  brown  or black points in the
 skin, generally of the face, and especially of the forehead and
 nose. " They sometimes appear on the chin and more rarely on
 the  bust.  They correspond  to  the orifices of the sebaceous
 glands, and represent the free end  of a sebaceous  plug which
 fills  the entire  gland and which  is usually discolored with
 dust or dirt.   The brown color is not caused entirely by dirt, 
42                      Cosmetics.
but it is also no doubt true that the sebaceous matter mixed
with epithelial scales may become dark from the action of
the lig-ht, perhaps through oxidation.  When the walls of the
gland are compressed, the plug is  squeezed out of the orifice
and has the appearance of a small white worm with a black
head.   The contents  of the comedo  consist often, besides
the constituents of the sebaceous matter and some cells, of a
number of fine hairs, and at times  also of a peculiar mite, the
acarus folliculorum.  The  orifice of a gland remains gaping
for some time after it has been pressed out.  The development
of the comedo is generally produced by a clogging up of the
duct and  a consequent  passive dilatation  of the gland.  In
other  cases where  the  hair follicles  are  accessories  of the
glands, the irritation  which  the growing hair causes  to the
wall of the duct may lead to a slight inflammation and an active
dilatation of  the  gland. In this way  may be produced the
peculiar sheath of the comedo.  Finally, it cannot be  denied
that a comedo may develop on account of diminished tone of
the walls of the duct.  The formation of comedones after the
first two methods explains  their  occurrence  in persons who
have abundant sebaceous secretion and are much exposed to
the air, and also explains their occurrence about the period
of puberty.
   Single comedones are found in every skin; they only form
a  cosmetic anomaly  when .in great numbers.   The  comedo
often  becomes loose and is  then carried off  in the ordinary
washing; if it exists longer, it may cause a local inflammation
of the skin and furuncles and acne  pustules may come on.
   The treatment of  the  comedones is first  the mechanical
removal of the plug, by pressing the walls of the duct with
the fingers or  finger nails,  or by  pressing a watch  key or
Hebra's similar instrument over it.  This is the  most  impor-
tant part of the therapy.  This very tedious  procedure must
be gone through with  day after day.   The comedones may
also be removed by rubbing with sand, soap, etc.
   The hypersecretion of the glands must  also be combated
with the agents mentioned before,  soap, alkalies, and alcohol.
Although these substances irritate the skin, no powder should
be used after  their application, since  this may cause  a clog-
ging of the ducts of the glands and produce  new comedones.
In seborrhoea in general, the powdering of the face is harmful. 
Cosmetics.
43
   The secretion of  the  sweat glands also shows anomalies.
In a beautiful skin  the  secretion of sweat should be imper-
ceptible, although a certain amount is indispensable.  In indi-
viduals in whom in  consequence of skin  diseases or general
diseases  (diabetes), the secretion  of  sweat is  diminished  or
abolished, anidiosis, the entire skin or single portions of it ap-
pear dry and parched.
   There may be anomalies both of quantity and of  quality.
The increased quantity, hyperidrosis,  may be general or local.
The  latter is  chiefly the object of  cosmetic treatment.   It is
habitual  in  the face, the hairy scalp, the axillae, about the
genitalia, beneath the breasts in females, in the rim a ani and
in the palms and soles.   The large quantity of sweat secreted
in these  parts has  the composition of normal  sweat, but is
more easily decomposed  on account of its stagnation in cer-
tain  places, and on account of its mixture with epithelium and
fat.  Its unpleasant odor is caused in part by this decomposi-
tion.  It  may be said that every individual has a sweat with
a specific odor.  This odor, which is different in different parts
of the body, becomes unpleasant to  others only after its de-
composition.  The cause of the hypersecretion is not fully ex-
plained, although in certain  cases and in  special localities a
reflex nervous action may be assumed.  The development of
the peculiar local hyperidrosis which interests us is not clear.
Of the localities named, the  altered quality of the sweat is
most noticeable in the axillae and  on the hands  and feet.  In
the axilla and on the feet and in other locations, hyperidrosis
may cause other diseases of the skin, such as eczema and the
formation of  rhagades.  The sweating in the axilla is more
frequent  in females than in males, and is disagreeable both on
account of its bad  odor and on account  of the discoloration
of the clothing which it  produces.   The dress shields of rub-
ber or other material protect the clothing, and by preventing
evaporation lessen the odor.  The shields of doe-skin recently
introduced are the most  serviceable.
   The sweating of the palms of the hands, although it has no
disagreeable odor, is unpleasant both for the patient and for
others.   Such hands feel moist, cold, and sticky, as if  one had
touched a frog.  " Such  a condition renders theh and  of the
most beautiful woman unpleasant to the touch, and may often
have cooled the glow of love " (Kaposi).  No matter how often 
44
Cosmetics.
the hand is washed and dried, it always appears covered with
little drops of sweat; if this condition be of long duration, the
epidermis becomes tender, often white, and  occasionally vesi-
cles appear on it.  Wiping and washing the hands is of no
avail.  The sweating of the hands is  found at every age in
either  sex, more frequently in the young, however, especially
about  the period of puberty, and perhaps more often in  the
female than  in the male.   Certain general  diseases,  chiefly
disturbances of nutrition, such as chlorosis, seem to dispose to
this affection.  In such cases it may disappear of itself or con-
tinue stationary in spite of every treatment.
   Still more disagreeable than these is the habitual sweating
of the  feet; first, because the skin is loosened and softened on
the  soles and the  ends of the toes, and tears  so  that  every
pressure and even walking may be painful, and, second, be-
cause the stagnation of the secretion causes a very disagree-
able, penetrating odor.  The decomposition of the sweat is  not
the only cause of the odor; this is also produced by the decay
of the loosened  epidermis  and the masses of sebum between
the toes.  This exceedingly bad odor is communicated to  the
shoes and  stockings through  their impregnation with  the
sweat, and these articles of dress are  the principal cause of
the bromiclrosis.  The  odor disappears, as a rule, when the}7
are  removed.  Carefully-washed feet left bare have no bad
odor; just  as the clothing is ruined by the axillary sweat and
the gloves by the sweating of the hands, so are the stockings
by  the sweat of the feet.  This sweating  may be found in
either  sex  at  any age, and may  continue from childhood to
old age; it disappears sometimes of itself, but less frequently
than the hand-sweating.   It may be produced by excessive
use of the feet, and such a local unhabitual hyperidrosis pedum
may have the same unpleasant consequences as an habitual
sweating of the feet.  Sweating of the hands and feet is asso-
ciated in many persons; the latter, however, is more frequently
present by  itself.
   Apart from the bad odor which arises from the  decomposi-
tion of the  sweat and the other skin secretions, as well as of
the epithelial  masses, in consequence of their  stagnation or
their impregnation of articles of dress, specific odors, if in fact
they ever  exist, are very  rare.  I  remember  hearing Prof.
Jarisch say that he had  observed  a case of bromidrosis in 
Cosmetics.
45
 which the sweat of all parts of the body had an odor suggest-
 ing the stable.
    Other qualitative changes in the sweat occur as regards
 color.   Cases of chromidrosis are reported in which the sweat
 is said to have been yellow, blue, green, or black.  It  is not
 rare to find sweat blue or yellow to orange-red.  The latter is
 found in the axillae  of  red-haired  individuals.  Interesting,
 but unimportant from our point of view, is the  presence of
 urea  in the  sweat.   In  hairj'  parts, when there  is hyper-
 secretion and stagnation of the sweat, especially the axillae,
 the pubes, and the genito-crural fold, the hairs  have often
 larger or smaller round, yellow, or brown granular accumula-
 tions.   These masses  cling tightly  to the hair.  The micro-
• scope  shows  them to be yellow, fatty  masses mixed with
 epidermis cells.
    The treatment of the local  hyperidrosis consists, first, in
 the frequent  washing of the part, either with water or with
 agents which increase the  tone of the tissues in general, as
 alcohol, dilute acids,  alum, etc.  In  many cases  hydrargjTi
 chloridum corrosivum, acidum salicylicum, and  naphthol are
 of service.  An important indication in the treatment  of hy-
 peridrosis  is  the  isolation of  sweating  surfaces from each
 other.  For this purpose agents are employed which absorb
 the sweat, as all sorts of powder, which  may either be  sprin-
 kled on the surface or used on pledgets of cotton wool.   Often
 in severe cases of habitual sweating of either the axillae  or the
 hands and feet, the unguentum diachyli Hebra is  of  great
 value.  The most important indications are frequent washing
 and frequent  changing of the clothes, which should be thor-
 oughly aired.   The manner in which this treatment is  to be
 carried out will vary with the location.  Where hairs are
 pi-esent, it is necessary to  free these from the concretions by
 washing, best with alkaline soaps,  and this is at the same
 time the best means  of preventing  the odor.   After this the
 part should be moistened with one of the alcoholic fluids men-
 tioned, which is allowed  to dry.  The highly-perfumed  and
 recommended  vinaigres  de toilette are much employed in
 sweating of the axilla.  They have  a certain value if used in
 the right place, since they contain vinegar and alcohol, remem-
 bering always that the mixture of a pleasing and a bad odor
 is unbearable  and that the latter is first to be removed.  In 
46
Cosmetics.
the treatment of sweating feet, the greatest attention is to be
paid to cleanliness.   The layers  of epidermis found between
the toes are to be removed constantly.  The treatment is to
be begun only after the cleansing.  Many cases of hyperidro-
sis  pedum which are not  severe are cured by bathing every
evening with spiritus vini gallici.  Potassii permanganas, often
recommended for its deodorizing effect, can only be used on
parts where the color it produces is not objectionable.  The
application of this in the  form of a powder mixed with indif-
ferent powders, especially to exposed parts, is useless.   If the
more simple means, such  as washing and the use of powders
on the skin and scattered  in the  garments, be of no avail, we
may have recourse to Hebra's ointment.  This is applied in
the following manner.  After the feet are washed and dried, a
piece of linen spread with the salve  is wrapped about them,
the spaces between the toes being  filled with pledgets of  cot-
ton on which salve has been spread.  If the patient is in a
position to give up his occupation, rest in bed will hasten the
cure.  The  salve is to be renewed in twenty-four hours, the
feet not  being  washed  but  cleaned with  cotton wool  and
powder.  As a rule, the disease is cured in from one to three
weeks, and the superficial epidermis is cast off, after  which
powder is to be frequently used.   Acidum salicylicum  and
acidum tartaricum, which are often added to such foot pow-
ders, may cause erosions and rhagades in  a sensitive skin.
The vegetable powders are to be avoided, since these may
cause harm by swelling and producing pressure on  the skin.
The unguentum diaclryli may be used in  obstinate cases of
axillary sweating also.
   All dermatologists now acknowledge that the treatment
of these  local hyperidroses has no  injurious effect on  the
organism.  The secretion of the sweat is lessened by a number
of agents given internally, and local hyperidroses have been
treated in  this manner.   In ancient times those medicines
were used  which increase the secretion of urine.  The old
Greeks and even modern physicians have recommended a de-
coction of artichoke roots; in later times agents which check
directly the secretion of sweat, such as atropine and agaricin,
have been employed.  These drugs, which have a  remarkable
effect in general hyperidroses, sometimes are followed by per-
manent results in local hyperidroses, often only by transitory. 
Cosmetics.
47
   The uniformity and  beauty of the skin is  affected by a
number of diseases which come within the sphere of cosmetic
considerations;  these  are  callosities, corns, warts, and chill-
blains.  The callosities (callositas, tylosis, tyloma)  are lentil-
shaped, yellow or brownish, horny thickenings of the skin, not
sensitive, and closely connected to the underlying tissue.  They
are thickest in the centre, one-twentieth to one-fifth of an inch
or more, thinner toward the margins, and are composed of
horizontal parallel  layers of horny cells.   In  most cases they
come from an external cause; in rare cases they are idiopathic.
The latter often disappear spontaneous^.  The external cause
may be mechanical, as repeated  pressure of one point in the
skin against the underlying bone; or chemical, as the effect of
lye, mineral acids, etc.  Pressure callosities are found normally
in the skin on the heels and the soles, but may become abnor-
mally thick when the shoes are rough.  Similar callosities
arise beneath trusses and  corsets, and  are very frequent in
the palm of the hand.  They develop often, when the pressure
is only occasional but  severe, from a recurring vesicle.   Such
callosities are found, for  example, on the palms of young girls
who are being initiated into the mysteries of housekeeping.
In manual laborers these are very extensive and in their loca-
tion characteristic for each trade.  Although these  protect
the  skin  from further harmful  influences, they  may cause
annoyance by lessening  the sensibility of the skin or by the
production of deep, painful rhagades.
   The treatment consists in  the softening and removal of
the  callosities, or more simply in  the removal  of  the cause.
The  softening is brought about by warm  baths, by sweating
poultices, by enveloping in impermeable stuffs, finally by  all
agents which cause swelling or dissolution of the horny sub-
stance, such  as lyes, acids, etc. The most serviceable treat-
ment consists in bathing the part with a dilute alkaline solu-
tion  and covering  it with  gutta-percha  cloth  impregnated
with acidum salicylicum, taking care that only the  callous
parts are covered.
   The corn (clavus) differs from the callosity in that it is not
flat on the skin, but that there exists a circumscribed horny
thickening in the skin which resembles a nail. The corn con-
sists, like the callosity, of horny cells superimposed in parallel
layers, which here and there appear red or brown from the 
48
Cosmetics.
blood coloring matter which has escaped.  Corns are also
usually produced by  continued pressure of the skin against
the bone and rarely arise spontaneously.  The skin of some in-
dividuals, however, seems especially disposed to such growths.
Corns are found on almost every foot, especially on the toes,
over the joints, as well as on many points of the sole where the
shoe can press the skin against the bone.  Exceptionally corns
may be found on the middle finger of the right hand in per-
sons who press the pen too tightly in writing.  It is erroneous
to suppose that corns are only produced by tight shoes;  wide
and  improperly made shoes may have the same effect.  The
cutis beneath may be atrophied  or  the papillae may hyper-
trophy.  The parts about the corn show often  an  inflamma-
tory infiltration.  Pressure from the shoe or other objects may
cause intense pain in the  underlying skin.   Many individuals
with corns are affected by the influence of the weather; those
between the toes, which are covered with loosened  epidermis,
are the most painful.  While with callosities  the simplest
treatment is the removal  of the cause, this is not so easy with
corns, for the wearing of better shoes only prevents, as a rule,
the development of new  corns; those  already existing must
be removed.  Chiropodists  make  use  of a great  number of
instruments which in a skilled hand reduce themselves to a
razor with a small blade  and a myrtle-leaf knife.  The  plas-
ters  and bandages  used  by these individuals are often of  no
value, and may by their pressure cause other callosities  or
corns.  Corns are to be removed  either by the use of  agents
which swell  or dissolve the horny substance, as lyes, acidum
aceticum,  gutta-percha mull with acidun  salicylicum, or  by'
shaving them off in layers and then digging them out entirely
with  a  knife after a warm foot-bath.   In this latter opera-
tion,  bleeding vessels of the hypertrophic papillae  must  be
touched with argentum  nitricum.  With  the knife, wounds
may often be caused, which should be treated antiseptically,
and  which not infrequently give rise  to  tetanus and other
dangerous diseases.  The  physician should  not be  above per-
forming these small operations himself, and should not  turn
the patients over to  inexperienced persons  for  operation.
The filing off of corns with a steel file has  only a  palliative
effect.  Rings  of  caoutchouc, leather, or wool are merely
prophylactic. 
Cosmetics.
49
   Warts, verrucae, are round, elevated, smooth or irregular,
colorless or pigmented growths upon the skin.   They may be
congenital, but are mostly acquired.   The former are always
dark-colored and provided with hypertrophic hairs.  The ac-
quired are divided, according to their from, into flat (verruca
plana), hemispherical (verruca glabra), and glandular (acro-
thymion) warts.  They consist of hypertrophied papillae with
lengthened and dilated vessels, above which there is a thick
mucous layer.  They develop under the epithelium; later this
is pushed forward and becomes  constantly thicker.  Warts
grow slowly  or  quickly, on the hands,  feet, face,  and on
the hairy scalp of young persons, and may either last a life-
time or disappear spontaneously.  The cause of their develop-
ment is often obscure.   They are not contagious. Their spon-
taneous  disappearance accounts  for the fact that often after
one is removed by drugs or operative measures, the others
disappear of themselves.
   Among the agents for the cure of warts are some ancient
specifics which are still used by the laity, such as the juice of
celandine, of the fig, of ivy, of water-hemlock, etc.  Even the
dung of goats and of doves stirred  in vinegar has been  em-
ployed.  The  simplest and  best  means is  the  cauterization
with  caustic  potassa, concentrated mineral  acids such as
acidum nitricum, a  paste with  acidum sulphuricum, acidum
chromicum, or concentrated acidum aceticum; further, the ap-
plication of ferri chloridum or hydrargyri chloridum corrosi-
vum, and finally, covering the wart with mercurial plaster to
which arsenious acid has been added.   Cauterization with the
stick  of  argenti nitras is as a rule of no service.  Because of
the unpleasant influences of these agents on the surrounding
skin, and because the amount of cauterization cannot be accu-
rately gauged, warts are  also removed  by tying a strong
thread about them, by snipping them off with the curved scis-
sors, or bj^ scraping them out  with  a sharp spoon; tearing
them out with the forceps is a  barbarous  operation.  After
the operative removal of a wart, the surface of the wound
should be cauterized, both on account of the bleeding and to
prevent its return.  The cicatrices which ensue must be taken
into consideration, and since warts often  disappear spontane-
ously, it is often well not to operate when they are located on
the face.  The cicatrices  after electrolysis are less noticeable,
         4 
5o
Cosmetics.
and this operation is less painful.   It is made by transfixing
the base of the wart, parallel to the surface of the skin, with
a needle-shaped negative electrode, while the  positive elec-
trode is held on any portion of the body.   The strength of the
current must be measured by a galvanometer, and should not
exceed five milliamperes.  The  effect is a chemical  one, the
alkalies formed, acting as caustics.  This employment of elec-
tricity has nothing to do with the galvano-cauterj^.
   Perniones, or chilblains, are circumscribed reddenings  of
the skin with  or without swelling,  which develop in various
parts of the body in consequence of  exposure to low tempera-
tures.   They are most frequently found on the hands  and feet,
the face, the nose, and the ears.  They are round, red spots,
livid in the centre, from the  size of a dime  to a half-dollar,
hard  or soft, flat or elevated.  They may exist but  a  short
time or be of long duration, and in the latter case they become
more livid and the  skin  tissue is filled with dilated vessels,
and may  be covered with thin, shining scales  or may later
excoriate and ulcerate.  Chilblains cause, mostly in the evening
and in a warm room, a severe pricking  pain and intense itch-
ing, and at times, when on the hands  and face, are  actually
disfiguring. While chilblains occur at times in every person,
there are individuals, mostly anaemic and poorly nourished,
who seem disposed to them, and in such individuals they may
develop with a temperature no  lower than 40°.   The clothing
has a certain influence on the development of chilblains, since
they are found often after closely-fitting gloves or shoes, which
check circulation, have been worn.  For some unknown reason
this disposition diminishes as the person grows older.
   The treatment of chilblains is both prophylactic and cura-
tive.  The  former consists in having  persons  in whom the
disposition exists, wear warm foot and hand coverings, avoid-
ing those  lined with fur. Sudden changes of temperature
should be avoided.  On this depends the good effect  of wear-
ing woollen stockings through the  winter and even at night.
Warm hand and foot baths, which render the skin more sensi-
tive to changes of temperature, should also be  avoided. On
the contrary, cold baths and rubbing are to be recommended.
   Of the numerous agents used in  the treatment of  existing
chilblains, the  astringents and tonics deserve attention.  To
these belong dilute mineral and other acids, such as acidum 
Cosmetics.
51
nitricum and acidum citricum, acidum tannicum and its prep-
arations, sodii boras, alumen, salts of lead, and iodine.  The
other agents recommended, such as balsams, baths of hot glue,
hops, etc., only indicate how unreliable are the agents  usu-
ally employed.  Ulcerated or excoriated chilblains are to be
treated on general surgical principles.  In many cases it will
be required to conceal the disagreeable livid, red color, and for
this purpose, apart from the acids, it may be necessary to use
cosmetic salves and powders.
    It will  be seen from  what has been said  that cosmetic
treatment varies in different parts of the body.
    The cosmetic remedies in  general may be divided into two
groups.  The first comprises the agents serving hygiene and
cleanliness and  a number of the curative agents, and cor-
responds to the ag-ents belonging to  the ars ornatrix of the
ancients; the second group comprises those agents which con-
ceal that which the first group has been unable to cure.  These
are the substances which belonged to the ars fucatrix.
    Many of the agents of the latter  group have a curative
action as well, and these are intermediate between the simple
hygienic agents and the special cosmetics.
    The cleansing and hygienic agents are, first, water, soaps,
and fats, then alcohol, alkalies and acids; the latter three have
special actions.

                         Water.

    Of the agents externally applied, water takes the first place
in general medicine as well  as in cosmetics.  The priest-phj^-
sicians of the Jews, the Persians, and the Chaldees prescribed
simple water-baths for both therapeutic and  cosmetic pur-
poses.  Baths in the sacred Ganges, in the deified Nile, brought
to  men and women not only health, but youth and beauty:
and although in the course of centuries water and baths were
often neglected for long periods, they never lost their  impor-
tance as the simplest agent for preserving health and beauty.
The knowledge of this  importance has grown so with  the in-
crease of medical and  hygienic  knowledge that the grade of
civilization  may be gauged not  only according to the use of
soap, but according to the use of water.
   Water acts on the skin as a chemical and mechanical agent, 
52
Cosmetics.
as well as a carrier of heat and cold; by its property of dis-
solving other substances, it makes them active.
   It affects the surface of the body in two ways, by dissolv-
ing the salts, a portion of  the fatty  acids, and many albumin-
ous bodies, and again by causing the swelling of  some of the
tissues.
   In short applications, as in dipping the body in cold water
or by short baths, the first variety of its action comes but lit-
tle into play, the second not at all, since the normal epidermis
cannot be permeated by the water and no swelling can be
caused.   If the contact with the water be of longer duration,
or if the  water be moved, as in washing and scrubbing, or if
it be of higher temperature, there ensues, first, the solution of
the substances collected on the skin, then the mechanical re-
moval of the  superficial  epithelial  layers  which hinder the
passage  of the water to the deeper layers by the fat which
they contain, and finally the swelling of the deeper layers.
   This swelling  of the tissue, which is at once  perceptible,
follows the use of water or of steam for another reason.
   In a bath of a temperature near that of the skin, the per-
spiration ceases,  no  sweat is  secreted, but  the fluid usually
excreted  is retained in the skin,19 and causes a succulence of
the latter.   A swelling by imbibition and a swelling by de-
creased excretion may be assumed.   The chemical changes in
the skin  are influenced by the increased  swelling, whether it
be caused in one way or the other, and by the effect  of water
of higher or lower temperature on  the vessels, causing  their
dilatation or contraction.  The excretion of  sweat may be in-
creased or diminished, it  being also dependent on the individ-
ual differences in the amount of water contained in the skin.
   The nutrition of the individual is improved by the methodic
employment of water, and this leads to  the better nutrition
and the beautification of the skin.   The  contraction or dilata-
tion of the vessels, and in consequence the color  of the  skin,
is changed by long-continued bathing.
   The methodic use of cold water has a considerable  influence
in accustoming one to low temperatures;  the skin  becomes
"hardened," and it as well as  the remainder of the  body be-
comes less sensitive to cold.
   The forms of disease which  are benefited by hydrotherapy
are general  paleness and  bad color of the skin, whether this 
Cosmetics.
53
be produced by poor nutrition, by anaemia, or by local causes;
in such cases warm-water treatment, the employment of warm
sitz-baths, rubbing, and packing are beneficial.  A too intense
color of the skin from overfilling of the vessels indicates, when
general, the use of cold, running water; when the overfilling
of the vessels is limited  to single regions, derivative applica-
tions may be made to  distant  parts of the body; when  there
exists redness of the face, hot foot-baths are useful.  Those
transitory hyperaemias of  the  skin which are frequently pro-
duced 1)3T the continued influence of too hot or too cold air (ery-
thema fugax)  are  often cured by cold baths and the local
application of cold water.  Water is also of service in the hy-
persecretion of sweat.   Rubbing with cold water and a treat-
ment especially adapted to the individual case often  effect a
speedy cure.
   There are few contra-indications to  the use of water as a
medium  for washing.  There are persons whose  skin will not
tolerate  hard  water or soap  and water.   This  is especially
the case with the tender skin of the face.  The continued use
of cold water as a bath or douche for the hairy scalp leads to
the early falling out of the hair.  The methodical application
of warm and of cold water may be injurious for several rea-
sons.  Warm baths taken too  frequently relax the skin, dilate
the vessels, and lessen the resistance to atmospheric influences.
The bad effect of excessive use of cold baths is shown in this
description which Winternitz gives of a water fanatic:  "The
skin is as dry as leather, unelastic, having no fat, being poor
in blood, and gives the impression of being a lifeless  tissue."
The  average interval  between the baths should be eight to
fourteen days; apart from special cases and from cold baths
in the hot season, lukewarm baths, followed perhaps b}r the
cold douche, should be taken as a rule, and even the cold baths
in the summer should be varied at times by avlukewarm  bath.
   Seldom is water used which has the chemical constitution
H20; the water of  springs or streams contains various  salts.
Waters which are not  suitable for drinking purposes are also
often unsuitable  for the bath.  Waters which contain great
quantities  of ammonium,  acidum nitricum,  and  nitrates, or
organic substances, should be avoided when possible.  This is
still more the case with waters which contain macroscopically
visible dirt, whether it  be of organic or of inorganic nature. 
/
54                      Cosmetics.

   Water also which is excellent for drinking purposes may
in its natural state be harmful when used for bathing.  This
is true of hard waters, well waters,  and even our excellent
high spring water.  The salts of calcium and  magnesium, on
which the great hardness depends, make the  fine skin of the
hands and face raw and coarse.
   The use of  rain and river water is to be recommended for
washing the face  and hands.  Where this is not easily ob-
tained, hard water may be  freed from its harmful calcium
compounds by long boiling or by the addition of soap, soda, or
potash.
   Often water is not used pure, but has different ingredients
mixed with it.  These may be substances which serve to make
the bath more pleasant, as many aromas; or those which have
cosmetic value, as  soap, soda, and potash; or those which have
a certain value of  this sort  and serve as well to maintain a
certain temperature of the bath, as size or glue.
   Water is used  in  two manners, either to wash with or to
bathe in.  In the former, fresh water is repeatedly brought to
the part by the hand or other means, and a certain amount
of force being used, the skin is rubbed.  The material to be
used must vary according to the sensibilti}7 of the skin.  This
may be flannel, coarse  or fine  Turkish linen  in the form of
little sacks,  bath gloves, or bath sponges.  The latter, on ac-
count of their great porosity by which quantities of water are
absorbed, are excellent for washing.   There are several sorts
in the  shops, two  of which may be used for the toilet.  For
the face, and  especially for a  delicate skin, those from the
Spongia mollissima and the  Spongia  zimocca, fine-pored  and
very soft, are to be recommended; for the skin of the body the
large-pored, rough horse sponges from the Spongia equina and
adriatica are  better.   By washing  a greasy skin  or after
absorbing soapy water the sponges get a greasy appearance,
get doughy, soft  on  the surface,  and are then unfitted for
bathing purposes.   If they are boiled in a soda solution and
then washed with clean water, they  are again made  fit for
use.  Lately, in place of sponges, luffa has been introduced into
the market.  This is the fruit of the Luffa aegyptiaca (Cucurbi-
taceae) cut open, cleaned, and dried, and is similar to the sponge.
The peculiarly-webbed, woody fibres of the inner side are dry
hard, and rough, but absorb either cold or warm water ready. 
Cosmetics.
55
They are not injured  by long years of use.  The Egyptian
women owe their fine complexions to the use of these.
   The bath may be local or general, or a douche or a shower-
bath.  According to temperature, baths are cold from 60° to
70°, cool from 70° to 80°, lukewarm from 80° to 95°, warm from
95° to  100°, hot from 100° to 112°.  Roman and Turkish baths
are combinations of vapor baths with cool and  warm full
baths and similar douches.
   The duration of the bath should  be, for cold  and  hot, five
to ten  minutes; for the others, thirty minutes or more.
   As  to the time and  manner of washing, the following may
be said.  It is best in the evening, before going to bed, to
cleanse the body thoroughly from head to foot..  In the morn-
ing, if  the skin be sensitive, only the  hands and face should be
washed.  If there be considerable perspiration, the entire body
should be washed, but  superficially.  The wiping is best done
with rough  Turkish  linen or with hairy, woollen cloths.   The
skin of sensitive individuals should then be powdered; the skin
should at any rate be completely dried in a warm room.   The
moist  skin exposed  to the cool  morning or evening air soon
cracks and becomes  rough.
   In general, warm baths should be indulged  in once a week.
The skin is to be cooled before leaving the bath, with a sponge
dipped in cold water or by a cool douche.  Cold  baths and
river-bathing, which is common in summer, are permissible,
but they should be varied by warm baths.  The skin of many
individuals will not bear the continued cold baths, and this is
especially the case when the water is hard.
   Although water is one of the most important cosmetic and
cleansing agents, it does not answer all the cosmetic require-
ments  and some more active agent is needed.   First in this
regard is soap.   On account of its  importance  we shall con-
sider it in detail.

                          Soaps.

   Soaps are combinations of fatty acids with alkalies.  Their
chemical and physiological  properties depend on the latter.
On the skin, they act in a manner similar to the alkaline car-
bonates ;  like these they soften, swell, and dissolve the epider-
mis, and cause irritation, redness, and  swelling of the under- 
56
Cosmetics.
lying layers.  The best soaps contain free alkaline carbonates.
which cause saponification  of the sebaceous matter collecteo
on the skin.  As long as this saponification and  solution of
the fats is confined to the surface, it is a desirable action of
the alkali and increases the value of the soap.  The fat of the
skin is not only excreted from the sebaceous glands upon tile
epidermis, but  there is also  fat which is formed within the
tissues.  If sharp alkaline soaps or alkalies be applied to the
skin and  the tissue become swollen and  destroyed, the fat
that is in this is extracted;  not only cleansing is produced, but
also saponification and more or less deep cauterization.
   Formerly the whole action of the soap was attributed to
the alkali contained  in it.  The action of the alkali, however,
especially in the cosmetic application of it, is not the only one.
It is the sum of a number of separate actions, which makes
soap the most important of cosmetic agents.
   Besides the physiological action, there is also a chemical
and a mechanical action.  The chemical action  depends on the
easy decomposition of the  soap by water.   The soaps, which
are neutral alkali salts of the fatty acids, are decomposed by
water in such manner  that an acid oleic alkali  is precipitated,
while a basic oleic alkali remains dissolved.  The  latter per-
forms the chemical portion of the work; it combines with the
acid constituents of the skin secretion, with the dirt, and with
the  fatty acids of the sweat to form a new acid oleic alkali.
The insoluble part of the soap, which becomes an acid  oleic
alkali, has the mechanical task of surrounding the new-formed
combinations and keeping  them suspended; in this it is aided
by the property of the soap of forming with water a  perma-
nent foam which takes up not only the new-formed combina-
tions, but also those elements loosened by the friction, such as
epidermis-scales, hairs, dust, and dirt, and prevents their ad-
herence to the skin.
   The marked physiological action of the soap, the action of
its alkalies, is not always desirable;  especially  in its daily use
this action is subordinate to the two  others.   It  is avoided
only when completely neutral soaps are used;  and by the use
of such soaps the other requirements are also better fulfilled.
   The chemical work  is always performed by the soap; the
result, however, is only complete when the mechanical part
of the work is well carried out; since this latter depends in 
Cosmetics.
57
great part on the mode of manufacture of the soap, we must
consider this.
   Soaps are made by combining different fats with alkalies.
These latter do not unite directly with the fats, but a saponi-
fication of the latter occurs which produces the glyceride of
the fatty acids.   This is split up into glycerin and the fatty
acids, whereupon the latter unite with  the alkalies to form
soap.  Therefore those fats which  contain free fatty acids,
such as palm oil and cocoanut oil, are more readily saponified
than completely neutral fats, such as tallow and grease.  The
breaking  up of the fat does not occur  suddenly, but  gradu-
ally, after the fat has formed an emulsion with the alkaline
lye.  The process may be hastened by previously  making an
emulsion of the fat, either with soaps or with albumen.
   We distinguish soaps  according  as they are soft (fat with
potash lye) or hard  (fat with soda lye);  further, as to the fat
used, tallow, oil, palm-oil,  cocoanut-oil, train-oil, oleic-acid
soaps.
   There  are the following varieties of  hard  soaps:  (1) Ball
soap, produced by the boiling of fat with potash or soda lye;
the soap  is precipitated  with salt, by means of which, when
potash lye is used, potassii chloridum is formed; the crumbling
masses are boiled into a ball—i.e., a uniform crystallized mass
without bubbles.  Small amounts of impurities cause a natu-
ral mottling.  This soap, now not often manufactured, is the
purest soap, since the salting frees it from excess of h-e, from
impurities, and from a great part of its water.  If  this sort of
soap be mixed with  water or weak lye, water is absorbed and
the soa p does not crystallize.  This is (2)  the ground or smooth
soap, which is manufactured like the other, and only differs
from it  in containing more water.  If  the soap  solution be
salted slightly or not at all, the  soap remains  mixed with the
superfluous lye, the water,  and the glycerin.  This mixture
hardens as soon as it is cool if concentrated lye has been used;
and after steaming if weak lye has been used.  This is (3) the
filled soap, which contains an excess of lye, water, and glycerin.
If it be  kept, the water evaporates,  it decreases in  weight and
volume, and the alkaline salts crystallize on the surface.
   The  raw materials used are first various fats, some of
which have a cosmetic value and will be spoken of later, such
as grease, tallow, olive and castor oils. 
58
Cosmetics.
   Others are of interest to us only on account of their use in
the manufacture of soap, and will be mentioned briefly.
   Palm oil, extracted from the fruit of  the Elais guineensis,
is a fat of buttery  consistence, dark or orange-yellow in color,
and  of an agreeable smell, recalling iris root.   It  contains
many free  acids and a yellowish-red coloring matter, which
is not disturbed by the process of saponification, and the palm
soap made from this oil has, therefore, a yellow color.  This
coloring material  can  be destroj^ed  by potassii bichromas or
acidum sulphuricum, and oil so bleached makes a white soap.
   Cocoa oil and cocoa butter, the fat of the fruit of the Cocos
nucifera, is of buttery consistence, white, and has an  un-
pleasant odor, which is not lost in the manufacture.  It is one
of the chief fatty  substances  used in making soap, since it is
especially adapted for the manufacture of the filled varieties.
   Other fats less frequently used are red galam or shea but-
ter, from the  Bassia Parkii and the bassia  oil, both yellow,
similar to palm oil;  and further, vateria tallow, from the fruit
of the Vateria indica, carapa oil, and mafurra tallow.
   In the manufacture of  stearin candles, quantities of raw
oils, consisting of stearic and  palmitic acids  dissolved in oleic
acid, go into the refuse, and these are used in the manufacture
of soap.
   Besides the animal oils given above, the train oil  from  the
whale, dolphin, and walrus is used in the manufacture of soap.
   Liebreich has  recommended the  saponification of the oily
fruits, pure or mixed with other oils.  As an addition to ordi-
nary soaps, colophony and silicic acid in the form of water-
glass are used.
   The second raw  material  is the  lye, which  was  formerly
prepared from wood ashes or  potash, but is not found ready
prepared on the market.
   The manufacture of soap is effected by adding lye to fats,
and heating until  saponification occurs.  To  this fluid is then
added salt, and after repeated boiling the lower part of the fluid
is allowed to escape.  The  salting takes place, as was said be-
fore, in the manufacture of the filled soaps and the potassium
soaps.  The salting and boiling  has the effect of separating
the excess of alkali.  That this latter is very injurious in toilet
soaps is seen from a statement of Liebreich20 which deserves
notice.  According to this  author, the fluid soap is first sepa- 
Cosmetics.
59
rated from  the  cellulose  of  the  fruits by a centrifugal ma-
chine, and then  the precipitated ball is separated  from the
under lye by heating and going a second time through the
centrifugal  process.  In this manner it is possible  to obtain
soap entirely free from, alkalies.  If  soda lye be used for the
saponification, since the salting is done with sodii chloridum,
only soda combinations are  formed with the oleic  acid, and
the soda ball soap  so obtained is very hard; if potash lye or
a mixture of potash and soda lye be used for the saponifica-
tion, soda and potash  combinations are made with the oleic
acid; these  are soft and mild and impart their characteristics
to the  soap.  The  manufacture  of  cocoanut-oil  and  potash
soaps requires another process; the former is produced, not by
boiling, but by treating the melted fat with strong soda lye.
The potash  soaps cannot  be salted with sodii chloridum, since
in this  way chemical  displacements.occur and a hard soda
soap would be produced.  Salting with potassii chloridum may
then be employed in order to separate the soap from  the lye
and other impurities.
   The soaps produced in this manner are: 1.  Tallow ball soap,
made by the saponification of beef tallow with potash lye and
salting  with sodii chloridum.  It is  thus a mixture  of potash
lye and soda soap, white, neutral, odorless, and mild.
    2. Soda ball soap or soda soap, of tallow and soda lye, salted
with sodii chloridum, very hard, white, neutral, odorless.
    3. Oil soap, Marseilles, Venetian, Castile soap, composed of
olive oil and soda lye salted with sodii chloridum.   This soap is
mottled by the addition of ferri sulphas, which becomes darkly
colored by  the  sodii sulphas of  the soda lye (mottled Cas-
tile  soap).  If pure \ye and pure oil be used, a completely
white soap is produced, hard, neutral, and odorless.  The alco-
holic solutions of the  oil soaps prepared hot, differ from the
tallow soaps in that they do not become gelatinous on cooling.
    4. Cocoanut-oil  soap, made of cocoanut oil and strong soda
lye or sodii  carbonas without salting;  filled, having often  as
much as seventy-five per cent of water, an excess of soda  lye
and sodium; white, transparent, alkaline,light, lathering well,
of unpleasant odor, which cannot be removed.   Cocoanut oil
is often mixed with other fats, such as palm oil, or artificially
mottled by  the  addition of iron red, brown  red, or  Frankfort
black. 
6o
Cosmetics.
   5.  Palm-oil soap, of palm oil alone or with beef tallow, with
colophony and soda lye;  yellow, of agreeable odor.
   6.  Soft soaps, potash soaps, green, black, train soaps.  Olive
oil and hemp, rape, linseed, or train oils with  potash lye and
potassii  carbonas;  generally filled, honey  yellow, green or
black (colored by logwood and ferri  sulphas); of unpleasant
odor, strongly alkaline.
   Other soaps, intended for the poor, are the yellow resinous
tallow soap, either  a  soap prepared from colophony and tal-
low with soda  \ye, or a  German palm-oil  soap mixed with
resin  soap; the oleic-acid soaps, bone soaps,  a mixture of resin
or cocoanut-oil soap  with bone jelly or with  the whole bon3T
mass, Liverpool poor  soap; silicic soap, an ordinary oil or tal-
low soap to which silicic acid is added.   Instead of mixing in
the silicates, these  are introduced into the soap in a water-
glass solution.   Such soaps readily  make  the skin  raw;  a
white powder is precipitated which  is only  removed  by re-
peated washing.   The manufacture of such soaps still increases,
although complaints are made on all sides of the adulteration.
Not only the lye, the water, and the glycerin are retained, but
resin  and water-glass, as well as starch and  sugar (10 to 40$),
are added, so that from 100 parts of fat, 500 parts of soap are
made, or in  2,400 pounds of soap there are 800 pounds of
adulterating matter.
   Of the soaps  named, one may use for washing the  body
either the German tallow ball soap, the oil  soap, or the palm-
oil soap; the soda soap is too hard; the cocoanut-oil soaps and
the soft  soaps are  too strongly alkaline, affect  the skin, and
have  an unpleasant odor.  The former fill  the wants of the
public, but often not  the requirements of the hygiene of the
skin;  many a tender  face suffers from the use of tallow ball
soap.
   A  good toilet soap  must fulfil the following requirements:21
   1.  It must be neutral in reaction;  bad soaps, the  filled
soaps, contain free alkali and are corrosive.
   2.  The percentage of water in the soap must be neither
too great nor too small.   The former deceives the purchaser.
The latter makes the  soap too hard, it does  not  foam readily,
and is consequently less valuable as a toilet soap.  A soap
having  the proper  quantities of the ingredients will foam as
soon as water is added to it. 
Cosmetics.
61
    3. The lathering of the soap is hindered by the presence of
 free fat.  The soap also gets a rancid odor when kept long.
 The over-fatty soaps may be of cosmetic value on account of
 the softness of their lather.  Such soaps may be prevented
 from becoming rancid and sticky  by using lanolin in place
 of the ordinary grease.
    4. The soap must  be odorless or have a pleasing odor and
 a constant agreeable color.
    5. The soap must cleanse the skin and render it  flexible.
 Substances added for this purpose, as well as the coloring and
 perfuming matters, may be poisonous.
    The manufacturers of toilet  soaps seek, or at  least should
 seek, to fulfil these requirements.
    In England the soap manufacturer seldom makes  his own
 soaps, but procures these from the real manufacturers and
 subjects them to various procedures. The toilet  soaps made
 there are generally good.  In France and Germany the per-
 fumer makes his own soap, generally by the cold method.  The
 English dealers  make their toilet soaps  by  remelting raw
 soaps and by  the  cold perfuming of odorless soaps.  The
 former method consists in melting  the soap, then adding the
 perfume and stirring it well; in the second method the cold
 soap is broken  up, perfumes and coloring matter added, and
 the whole macerated between cylinders  into a uniformly col-
 ored and perfumed mass.  The whole procedure is done by a
 machine, and such soaps are called  pounded soaps. Soaps so
 treated become gray, and the method cannot be employed for
 the production  of white soaps.   In the direct preparation, the
 perfume and the pigment are mixed with the soap while it is
 still soft. This is, however, impossible for the most  highly-
 perfumed soaps. Fine perfumes decompose or evaporate at the
 high temperatures required  for the  saponification.
   In Germany, therefore, the cold  saponification  is preferred
 for this purpose.  In  this manner a filled soap  is produced
 which is not less valuable on account of the excess of glycerin
 and the salts produced by the use of the pure lye, but  is often
 harmful on account of  the excess of  caustic bye.   This fault
 may also cause the gradual decomposition of  the perfumes
 added to it.  At any rate it is very  difficult, and only possible
after long experience,  to produce by the cold method an al-
most neutral soap, not  having an excess of fat,lathering well,
and not becoming rancid. 
62
Cosmetics.
   The various ethereal oils are used for the perfuming.
   For the coloring, red is produced by cinnabar, corallin, and
fuchsin (free from arsenic), at times ferri oxidum and also car-
min, which can be used only in neutral soaps.   Yellow is pro-
duced by cadmii sulphas, uranii oxidum, saffron, Orleans, and
palm-oil soap, which is yellow.  Violet is produced by coal-tar
colors.  Blue is produced by smalt, ultramarine, and indigo.
Green is produced by mixing yellow and blue.   Brown  is pro-
duced by a solution of  granulated sugar in lye or by caramel
or cocoa  meal.
   In order to make it transparent, dried soap is dissolved in
alcohol, cooled, perfumed, and colored with  cochineal, aniline,
or acidum picricum  and martius yellow.  Soap is now often
dissolved  in its weight of glycerin and then treated like the
soap dissolved in alcohol.
   Transparent soaps  only become hard after several weeks.
There are great adulterations practised now in the manufac-
ture of transparent soaps; many of the English soaps contain
syrup, free alkali, or resin and  sugar, without a trace of gly-
cerin.
   Since  soaps are mostly bought and seldom  specially made,
only a few recipes for well-known soaps will be given.
   The popular brown Windsor soap, which is cheap and ser-
viceable,  is made as a ball soap by the saponification of two
parts of  mutton tallow and one part of olive oil, with  soda
lye;  it should be neutral.  It is perfumed with a mixture of
caraway, bergamot, lavender, Spanish hop, and  thyme oils,
and  colored with caramel or cocoa from which the fat has
been removed.
   Another recipe gives  three parts of white ball  tallow
soap, one part each of  cocoanut-oil soda soap,  yellow palm-oil
soap, and grease soap.   These are to be melted together, then
perfumed and  colored.  To make white Windsor  soap, the
yellow soap and the coloring matter are left out.
   Rose soap is made by melting together three parts of oil
soap and  two parts of tallow  soap.  This  is  perfumed with
rose and  geranium oils and  colored with cinnabar. It may
also  be made by perfuming cold rose-red  ball tallow  soap
with rose oil,  sandal wood, and geranium oils.
   Almond soap is made by melting white ball tallow  soap
with oil and cocoanut-oil soap, perfuming with the oils of bit- 
Cosmetics.
63
ter almonds, cloves, roses, and caraway.  In place of the bitter-
almond oil nitrobenzol is often used.
   In this manner  most of the toilet soaps are made.  The
name comes  usually from the perfume  used, as, for example,
savon a la Violette  de Parme, a l'lxora, etc.  That the name
is often fanciful and has nothing to do with the ingredients of
the soap is shown by the spermaceti soap, which is a simple
white  tallow  soap  strongly perfumed with bergamot and
lemon oils.
   The  light or lather soap is made  by melting palm or olive
oil soap with from one-eighth to one-third its volume of water,
and  stirring  until the foaming mass has reached double its
volume; it is then perfumed with various ethereal oils. Tallow
soaps cannot be made into lather soaps.
   Softer soaps are generally sold as shaving soaps.  Such  a
soap made from  pork fat and potash lye with concentrated
alcohol and  perfumed with the oil  of bitter almonds  is the
creme  de savon  a  l'amande, a  soap shining like mother-of-
pearl.   This scented with oleum menthae piperitae and colored
with aniline violet is the creme d'ambrosie, fragrant soap for
shaving.  Soap made from oil and potash lye is transparent.
   Soaps are used also in fluid form,  and there are two of
these Avorth mentioning.  The one, the fluid glycerin soap, is a
solution of soap  in an  excess of gbycerin (30:35); Sarg's gly-
cerin soap is an olein potash soap made of very pure materials
with two-thirds glycerin, which is filtered and then perfumed
with rose oil.  It is clear, light brown, having the consistence
of honey and containing free alkali.   It does not lather much.
   The second is  the  potash  soap spirit,  spiritus saponis
kalini, according  to the  Austrian Pharmacopoeia, a filtered so-
lution  of two parts of  sapo viridis  in one part of spirits of
lavender; in  this form it has a not unpleasant odor.
   Other fluid forms are the soap essences, concentrated alco-
holic perfumed solutions of  soap.
   Kali-creme, which is the sapo kalinus albus of the German
Pharmacopoeia perfumed, and  the spiritus saponis kalini, are
cosmetic  agents  in a wider sense than the hard soda  soans,
since free alkali or alkaline carbonates, which modify the soap,
have their share in producing its action.   These are, therefore,
properly to be classed with the alkalies.  Some believed that
the injuriousness of the strong  alkaline soaps might be pre- 
64
Cosmetics.
vented by adding an excess of fat.  This, however, as Lieb-
reich  has shown, is only partly possible.  Unna composed a
soda  soap with an excess  of fat, sapo  superadiposus, and a
similar potash soap, sapo  unguinosus.  The former is made
by the saponification of 59.3 parts of beef tallow and 7.4 parts
of olive oil with 22.2 parts  of soda lye and  11.1 parts  potash
lye  (28° Beaume's hydrometer). With  this composition four
parts of  fat remain unsaponified.   Neither  glycerin nor free
alkali should remain.   While it is possible in this soda soap
to take up the free alkali with the excessive fat, this is impos-
sible in the potash soaps.   The latter, the sapo unguinosus,22
is made according to Liebreich  by stirring together fifty parts
of oil  of cocoa and fifty parts of fat (adeps suillus) with potash
lye  composed of  twenty parts of  caustic potassa and forty
parts of  water.   This  is left to itself for several hours while
saponification is  taking place.  Within this  time  seventeen
per cent  of  previously melted  fat  is added, and finally gly-
cerin  also.  This soap  then contains free  alkali like every
potash soap,  and has an excess of fat.
   These  soaps  having an excess  of fat were supposed  to
allow the free alkali little action, and it was further supposed
that they would oil the skin again, which is rendered dry and
rough by the use of soap as well as  of alkali.  They were also
thought to dissolve more completely the medicaments added.
They  do  not  possess the first  property, since the alkali can
only be neutralized by boiling the  soap, and can only be  re-
moved by the centrifugal  machine after the salting;  but, as
said before, the potash soaps cannot  be salted.   The free alkali
is not neutralized in the soaps, but  its action somewhat held
in check  by the presence of the fat.  The percentage  of free
alkali is reduced,  however.   The action  of potash soap is but
incompletely obtained in using the preparations described.
   The advantage claimed  that the skin is at once oiled again
after  washing is  harder to object to from a cosmetic stand-
point. This oiling when the skin is sensitive, and in individuals
who from their occupation  must wash frequently, is very nec-
essary, and Valenta, before the introduction  of the sapo un-
guinosus, advised rubbing the hands, before washing with
soap,  with creme celeste.   The advantage, however, is imag-
inary, for in  washing  off  the  soap  the oily  coating  is also
washed off.   The objection  to their use  for cosmetic  purposes 
Cosmetics.
65
is that  the  fat easily becomes rancid and  the soaps  do not
keep.  The free fatty acids are  unbearable to the skin;  and
for  this reason the newly-introduced sapo superacidosus, hav-
ing an excess of fatty acids, is to be condemned.  Besides this,
the fresh soaps with an excess of fat have an unpleasant odor
and are not attractive in appearance.  Rancidity may be pre-
vented by adding lanolin to the prepared soap.
   The  long-known  glycerin soaps and  the  potash  soap
spirit combined with glycerin are to be judged in the same
manner.  Glycerin  in  the  quantities in which it is added to
the soaps (twenty-five to forty per cent) has only the effect
which the excess of fat in the sapo unguinosus has; it makes
the action of the free alkalies milder, since it takes these up
and lessens the percentage of the  free alkali present.  This
is especially the case with  the potash soap spirit; the prep-
aration given in the Austrian Pharmacopoeia lacks almost all
the characteristics  of a toilet soap;  it does not lather  well,
it attacks the skin, makes it dry, rough, and fissured, and it
has a bad odor.  By using  the better white potash  soap, a
better perfume, and adding glycerin, a  preparation is made
which, disregarding its action, is far pleasanter to use  than
the other.   A moderate quantity of glycerin  gives a.  certain
consistence  to the  spiritus saponis  kalinis, which favors its
application.  The percentage of glycerin  may  not exceed a
certain limit—it may not  be greater than the percentage of
alcohol; if greater percentages  of glycerin be used, the  soap
dissolves the epidermis less, makes a poorer emulsion, and is,
therefore, less adapted to remove the dirt and fat of the skin.
The peculiar action of the glycerin is mostly lost when it is
combined with a  soap.  This soap, like the others, cannot be
considered a universal cosmetic agent.
   Besides the free alkalies  and the glycerin, which as  such
have no action in the soap and merely modify or  increase the
action of the other  constituents, there are other cosmetic and
curative agents which may be incorporated into a soap.
   For this  purpose, fine quartz sand or finely-powdered  pum-
ice-stone are used in equal or double the quantity of the soap
(ball  tallow soap and cocoanut-oil soda soap  mixed).   Either
this mixture, which is similar to and little better than the
water-glass above  mentioned, or dusting  powder is  added,
which in a  different manner from  the  soap make the skin
         5 
66
Cosmetics.
flexible, soft, and of a lighter color.  Such a soap is the hy-
gienic toilet soap devised by Auspitz, which is made from tallow
and cocoanut oil with potash and soda  lye, to which is added
glycerin, flores  zinci, pulv. alumm.  plumos., and amyl. oryzae,
and it is then perfumed with oil of lemon and rose oil.  In
place  of this the cosmetic soap  given  below, prepared from
white soap by the apothecary, may be used.   I am convinced
of its value.  Paraffin is also added to soap for this purpose.
Ordinarily such toilet soaps are prepared and prescribed in a
special  form.  Among these are the beauty-balls, soap-emul-
sions, and soap-powders. The latter are made by cutting soap
into chips,  drying it, and pulverizing in a mortar.  Some ex-
amples follow:

   5  Talc, venet. praep.,
      Amy], oryz.,
      Sapon. odorat.,.....aa q. s.
   M. f. globuli.  S.  Savonettes a la Bergamotte.


   IJ  Furfur, amygdal.,
      Amyli,
      Sapon. in pulv.,.....aa,  3 ij.
      Pulv. rhiz. irid.,......3 i.
      Tinct. benzoini,......q. s.
   M. f. pasta in globul. form.  S.  Beauty-balls.


   IJ Sapon. pulv., .
      Sodii carbon, sic,  .
      Amyl. oryz., .
      Pulv. irid.,
      Mixt. odorif., .
   M.   S. Poudre de Feves.


   5 Sapon. pulv.,.......3 y[t
      Borac. venet.,
      Zinc, oxid.,.....aa gr. xvi.
      Essent. millefl.,......q. S-
   M.  S. Soap-powder.  Recommended for the hands of phy-
sicians.
3ij.
3 iij.
3 iss.
3i. 
Cosmetics.
67
   I}. Sapon. alb. in pulv.,.....§ i.
      Acaciae pulv.,......3 ss.
      Rhiz. irid. pulv.,......gr. xv.
      01. rosae,
      01. bergamii,.....aa   q. s.
   M.   S.  Soap -powder for shaving (Trommsdorff).

   I£ Sapon. kalin.,......3 vi.
      Spir. vini rect,......§ iij.
   Solve et filtra.  Dein adde:
      Glycerini,.......5 iij.
      01. geranii,
      01. bergamii,.....aa  q. s.
   M.   S.  Modified potash soap spirit for applications.   Rec-
ommended for ephelides.

   r> Spir. jasmin.,

        "  rosae,......aa   p.
        "  flor. aurant.,......3 vi.
        "  tuberos.,
        "  vanill.,......aa   3 ss.
        "  ambrae,.......3 vi.
      Sapon. alb. pulv.,......3 ij.
      Potassii carb.,......| ss.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 i.
   M.   S.  Essence fine de savon.

   r> Sapon. alb.,.......3 ij.
      Spir. vini rect.,......3 i.
      Aq.  rosae,
        '*   napha3,......aa   3 ij.
   M.   S.  Soap-essence.

   r> Sapon. kalin.,.......§ vi.
      Spir. vini rect.,......3 iij.
      Glycerini,.......3 vi.
      Borac. venet.,......3 ss.
      01. cort.  citr.,
      01. santali,......aa q. s.
   M.  S.  Borax soap spirit. 
68
Cosmetics.
   I> Zinci oxid.,
      Talci veneti,
      Sapon. kalin. alb.,
      01. millefl.,  .
      01. geranii, .
      Ess. bouquet,
   M.   S.  Cosmetic soap

   5 Saponis kalini,.....I iij.
      Adipis suilli leni calore liquefacti,   .  § iss.- % iiss.
      Glycerini,......3 iiss.
   M.   S.  Potash soap with an excess of fat (Liebreich).

   f> Saponis kalini,......3 iij.
      Lanolini leni calore liquefacti,  ...   3 iss.
   M.   S.  Potash-soap with an excess of fat (Liebreich).

   Besides  these  I shall give a few formulae  of soaps which
can be had in the  shops, some being officinal:
   f> Sebi bovini,
      Terebinth, venet.,
      Liq. sodae caust.,.....aa  3 iss.
   Calefaciendo paretur sapo, cui adde:
      01. de cedro,......3 iij.
      Fiat frust. pond.,......3 hiss.
   S. Turpentine  soap (Auspitz).

   $ 01. cocos,
      Sebi bovini,
      Liq. sodae caust.,.....aa  3 iss.
      Camphor, in oleo solutae,    .    .    .    . 3" ss.
      Fiat via frigida sapo pond.,  .    .     .    . 3" hiss.
   S. Camphor soap (Auspitz).  For perniones.

   1> 01. cocos,
      Sebi bovini,
      Liq. sodae caust.,     .    .              aa, § iss.
      01. rosmarini,......3 i.
      Fiat via frigida sapo pond.,    .    .     .   § hiss.
   S. Rosemary soap (Auspitz).  To be used in  aromatic baths.
If in place of ol. rosmarini, resina  benzoini in  alcol. solu.  § ss.
be taken, a benzoic soap is produced, useful for the same pur-
poses as the other.
aa 3 ij.
 3 iij-
 gtt. x.
 gtt. v. 
Cosmetics.
69
   3 Potassii carb.,  .
      Calcariae ustae, .
      Aquae,     ....
      Adipis suilli,
      Spir. vini rect., .
   Coctis adde:
      Glycerini,.......Oiv.
   M. f. Sapo. pond.,......Oxx.
   S. Salve soap (Dieterich).

   Little  is to be said of the manner of using soap.  It may
mere!}-  be remarked that the action is increased  by rub-
bing, and that this is to be done with flannel,  cambric, or a
brush.  In bathing, soap is to be dissolved in the water of the
bath, or soap essences and alcoholic solutions are to be added
to it. As to  its local application, when it is wished to produce
a marked loosening of the epidermis and the swelling and solu-
tion of the superficial layers, the mere washing with soda soap
will not suffice.  The soap must remain some time in contact
with the  skin.  The  soap may be rubbed on, using  a small
amount of water, and the lather may be allowed  to dry in;
or applications of soap  dissolved in  alcohol, and soft soaps
spread on flannel or linen, may be used on the parts affected.
It should be  washed off  in the bath or under a douche after
one  or  more days.  In  all these cases, the after-treatment
of the irritated  skin with mild, soothing salves must not be
neglected.  Medicamented soaps are used in the same manner.
The methods of using soap on the hairy scalp  and in the mouth
will be described further on.
   As has been stated, the skin of many individuals does not
tolerate the  ordinary use of water.  Still more frequently is
soap not tolerated, even the mildest soda soap.   In such cases
the skin is to be cleansed by means of fats.


                           Fat.

   If fat is rubbed on the skin, it makes this slippery, soft, and
pliable.   Fluid fats, or such as are rendered fluid by the heat
of the skin, are absorbed  into the superficial layers of the epi-
dermis.   This becomes clearer and glossy, and any  existing
rawness or roughness of the skin is removed, and an abnormal 
70
Cosmetics.
tension is prevented.  After the continued application of fats
they may be absorbed by the skin (through the hair follicles,
Lassar) and carried into the blood through the medium of the
lymph-vessels.  In this manner is to be explained the increase
in bodily weight  and the  improved  appearance after  the
methodic inunction of fat.  A second property of fat is that of
lessening the amount of water given off by the skin, since it
forms a thin, impermeable  coating which prevents evapora-
tion.  This water-tight covering protects the skin from exter-
nal influences, such as moisture  and the low temperature of
the air; it serves as a protecting agent, and fats are in fact
the best agents for protecting the skin.  The secretion of the
sebaceous glands and the fatty acids of tlie sweat are soluble
in fat; the dirt of  the skin is suspended in this solution as
with soap, and in some cases the rubbing with oil or another
fat may be sufficient to cleanse the skin and take the place of
washing.  Finally,  the fats are  of importance for cosmetic
purposes, since they serve as a menstruum for many medica-
ments.
   The fats are used to protect the skin and the  complexion
against atmospheric influences, to make the skin slippery and
so prevent the rubbing  of adjacent portions  of the skin, to
hinder the secretion of sweat, which loosens the epidermis, to
prevent the skin, as that between  the toes,  from becoming
sore; it is also used as a coating to cause the sticking of pow-
ders, and as a cleansing  agent to remove dust and cosmetics
from the skin.
   Inunctions of proper fats should have a more general use
than  they  have at present.  The ancients  recognized their
value, and the  anointing  of  the body with oil in the gym-
nastic games  was not only a trick to make the body more
difficult for the  opponent to grasp, but served as well to in-
crease the  manly  beauty, just as  the  inunctions of cesypus
(lanolin) not only made the  massage after the bath more easy
and protected  the body from the cold, but preserved  for the
Greek and Roman ladies the beauty of their skins  to  a ripe
age.  Beyond  the anointing of the face and hands, we  are
entirely unacquainted with this custom.  It should become
popular again, at least in so far as to having a light massage
with a proper fat after the weekly warm bath.
   The exclusive employment of fat as a cleansing agent leads 
Cosmetics.
7*
finally to results exactly contrary to those desired.   In place
of a fine, pure complexion being produced, the skin becomes
irritated, red, and raw, partly from the turning rancid of the
fat, partly on account of the impossibility of completely re-
moving the dirt.  The never-washed Italian lady of Athenaeus
(Mt'j-dts kskou;i£vrj  IraXia) is still to be found  among our society
ladies.
   Fat is contra-indicated as a cosmetic where the skin itself
contains much  fat, and where the secretion of the sebaceous
glands is abundant and there are comedones, since the fats,
especially those which harden readily, may  easily stop the
orifices of the sebaceous glands.
   Of the fats, the following are used for cosmetic purposes.
   Animal  fats:  pork lard, adeps  suillus, axungia porci, is
made by melting and filtering the spleen and kidney fat of the
pig, and is white and salve-like; when pure it is odorless and
melts  at  100°.  For cosmetic purposes it must be entirely
odorless  and  free from free fatty acids.   To have  it in this
condition, it is melted with sodii chloridum and albumen, fil-
tered, and after being cooled, washed while being kneaded.
Its permanency is increased when it is warmed  with coarsely
powdered benzoin (4:100), axungia benzoata.
   Beef and mutton tallow, sebum bovinum et ovile, are the
fats  of the  cow and of the sheep prepared like lard.   The
former is white, peculiarly-smelling, hard, and melts at a tem-
perature of  100° to 115°.  The latter is harder, has a stronger
odor, and melts  at 115° to 125°.  The purification of tallow for
cosmetic purposes is more difficult than that of lard.
   Lard is used  in pomades of soft consistence, tallow in those
which are harder.
   Cetaceum, from the semi-fluid matter  of the  head of the
whale.  The separating fatty part is pressed out cold and pur-
ified by washing and meting.  It forms crystalline leaf-like
masses, white, melting at 120° to 130°, soluble in  oil.  It does
not become  rancid.
   An  animal fat less often used is  beef marrow, medulla
oss'ium bovis, of salve-like consistency.
   Lanolin, while chemically not a fat, since it does not consist
of the glycerides of  fatty acids, is still to  be mentioned here,
because it acts on the skin like a fat.   It is made by emulsify-
ing wool fat, wool sweat of the sheep, oesypus of the ancients, 
72                       Cosmetics.

with alkalies, treating this in a centrifugal machine and fur-
ther purifying it.  Free from water, it is yellow and transpar-
ent, melting at 98° to 105°.  After the absorption of twenty-five
per  cent  of water,  it becomes a  yellowish-white,  salve-like
mass, with an odor which, though feeble, always recalls its ori-
gin.  This lanolin with water can still,  if it be kneaded, take
up more than its weight of water, without losing its salve-like
consistency.  Chemically, lanolin is a mixture of cholesterin
and ethers of the fatty acids.  It forms a permanent emulsion
with water and small quantities of alkaline carbonates or borax.
For  cosmetic purposes only that lanolin should be used which
is free from fatty acids.  Agnine, manufactured in America,
contains thirty-three per cent of free fatty acids.23  On the
skin, its action is similar to that of the  animal fats; the skin,
however,  absorbs lanolin more readily than these, perhaps
because, as Liebreich has shown, cholesterin fats are formed
even in the horny cells.  Under the use of lanolin, the skin
becomes tenser and more turgid, as after the inunction with
other animal fats.  Whether drugs mixed  in the lanolin are
more quickly absorbed by the skin than in  other  salves, is
still an open question.   It has, however, one great advantage
over all other salve menstrua, in that  it does not  become
rancid.
   The vegetable oils used are as follows.
   The  fluid oils: almond oil, oleum amygdalarum dulcium,
obtained from sweet  almonds by cold pressure, being settled
and  filtered, is a yellow oil, very mild and  of a  peculiar deli-
cate odor.
   Olive oil, oleum  olivarum, obtained  by cold pressure from
fresh olives, is clear, pale yellow, and very mild.
   Ben-nut oil, from the  seeds of the moringa tree, obtained
by  cold pressure, is  entirely odorless  and almost  colorless,
and does not easily become rancid.
   Besides these, sesame oil and hazel-nut oil are occasionally
employed.
   The  hard oils: Palm oil is obtained from  the fruit of the
oil palm in tropical Africa.  At the ordinary temperature it is
of the consistence of butter, of orange-red color, and of agree-
able, violet-like odor when fresh, but loses its color when kept
and easily becomes rancid.
   Cacao  butter, oleum cacao, obtained by warm pressure 
Cosmetics.
71
from the hulled and  slightly roasted cacao beans, is of a yel-
lowish-white color when fresh, later white, solid, brittle, hav-
ing a peculiar odor, and melting at 85° to 95°.  It is very per-
manent.
   Wax, cera, is obtained from  the honey-comb by pressing
out the honey, washing and melting, and is a brittle, granular,
j-ellow  or yellowish-brown mass, having the  odor  of  honey
and  melting at 130° to 140°.  By melting and bleaching, it be-
comes white wax, cera alba, which is purer than the other and
melts less readily.
   Of  the so-called mineral oils the following carburetted hy-
drogen oils are used:  The fluid paraffin or vaseline oil, a clear,
colorless, odorless fluid, somewhat thick, obtained from petro-
leum, and which does not become rancid.
   The salve-like vaseline, also obtained from petroleum or its
products of distillation.  The color and the melting-point vary
according to the manner of manufacture and the locality from
which it is obtained.  The American vaseline is dark orange-
yellow in color  and  melts between 90° and 98°; the Austrian
is honey-yellow; the  German is white, either gritty or tough,
and  has a bluish reflex. Vaseline should be odorless.  Often it
shows an acid reaction remaining after its purification, and is
therefore of no use for cosmetic purposes.
   Finally, there is the solid paraffinum solidum, a substance
obtained from ozokerite or peat, of whitish-blue color, trans-
parent, of waxy consistence, odorless, melting at 160° to 175°"
   Besides  these, there are fatty  seeds which may be used
either  pulverized or in the form of an  emulsion.  Sweet  and
bitter almonds are those most frequently used, the  latter be-
cause of their pleasant odor.  The bruised almonds, with their
original fat or the  refuse material after  the oil  has been
pressed out, is ground up and used under the name of almond
bran, which is still rich in oil.  Cocoa and pistachio nuts are
used in a similar waj7.
   Cucumber juice, obtained by pressing the fresh cucumber,
containing its fatty seeds, is also used.
   The rule holds for all pure oils that  they must be entirely
inodorous if they are to be  used on the skin.  The pure  oils
are seldom used alone, but different preparations and mixtures
are employed  according to the place and the manner of their
application. 
74
Cosmetics.
    For rubbing on the skin  after the bath and  for massage,
 we should use chiefly the vegetable oils and the animal fats
 alone or mixed, but always in a semi-fluid or salve form, pos-
 sibly containing a small quantity of perfume.  The best agent
 for this purpose is lanolin in  the following form:

    IJ Lanolin anhyd.,.....1 iij.
      01. cacao,.......§ i.
      Vanillin,.......gr. viij.
    S. Pomade.

    IJ Lanolin,.......3 iij.
      Sod. bor.,.......gr. xvi.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 iiiss.
    S. Lanolin milk, a very permanent emulsion.

    A very popular and valuable  salve mixture is cold cream,
 creme celeste or unguentum emolliens of the Austrian Phar-
 macopoeia.  By creme is  understood a mixture  of  wax, ceta-
 ceum, and almond oil to which water, pure or aromatic,  often
 glycerin or vaseline, and also potassii carbonas, sodii boras,
 and tinctura benzoini are added.  The creme celeste  of the Aus-
 trian Pharmacopoeia consists of cetaceum, 2 parts; cera alba, 1
 part; ol. amygdal., 8 parts;  aq. rosae, 2 parts.   The fats are
 first melted and the water  mixed in when the mass is half
 cold.  It is then stirred until it becomes white and foamy.

    IJ Olei viol, odor.,
      Aq. viol.,......aa, § xvi.
      Cerae,........§ i.
      Spermaceti,......§ i.
      Essentiae amygd.,.....gtt. v.
   M.  S. Cold cream a 4a violette.

   IJ 01. amygd. dulc,
      Aq. rosae,......aa \ xvi.
      Cerae,
      Spermaceti,......aa, § i.
      Camphorae,......| ij,
      Essent. rosmarini,.....3 ss>
   M.  S. Camphor ice (Piesse24).

   If glycerin be substituted for aq. rosae in the last recipe,
we have glycerin cold cream, which is very permanent. 
Cosmetics.
75
   IJ Spermaceti,......» 3 ss.
      Cera3 alb.,.......3 ij.
      01. amygd. dulc,......3 iiss.
      Butyr. cacao,......3 ss.
      Pulvis viol.,.......3 i.
      Trae. ambrae,......3 i.
   M.   S. Cacao creme (Debay25).

   IJ Cerae alb.,
      Cetacei,.......aa, 3 iss.
      01. amygd.,
      Succ. cucum. rec. press.,    .    .     .  aa  3 hiss.
      Trae. cucum. e succ. (4: 5 spir. vini. rect.),    3 ss.
   M.   S. Cucumber pomade (Bernatzik).
   IJ Axungiae,.......3 viij.
      Cucumer.,
      Melonum concis.,    .    .    .         aa  ? xvi.
      Succ. citri,......3 iv.
      Fruct. mali (reinette),   .    .    .    .  gr. xxx.
      Lactis vaccin.,......3 ij.
   Calef. in balneo Mar. 5 hor.; cola.
   M.   S. Pommade des concumbres (Debay).
   IJ Cerae albae,
      Cetacei,......aa 3 ij.
      01. amygd. dulc,.....3 ij-
      Vaselini,
      Aq. rosae,......aa 3 v.
      Borac. ven.,......gr. xvi.
      01. rosae,.......gtt. ij.
    L   S. Cold cream.
   U Cetacei,.......3 iij.
      01. rieini,.......3 ij-
      01. amygd.,.......3 v.
      01. odorat.,.......^xvi.
   M.   S. Ice or crystal pomade (Bernatzik); a transparent
gelatinous pomade.
   IJ 01. cocos.,.......3 iss-
      Aq. rosae,.......j1'  .
      01. rosae,    .         .....gtt}- *•
   M.   S. Cold cream (Hager26). 
j6                       Cosmetics.

   The  last  prescription most  resembles the  original cold
cream, which consists of

   IJ 01. cocos,.......§ i-
      01. rosae,.......gtt. viij.

and is not equalled by any of the other creams if the ol. cocos
be fresh and of good quality.
   Almonds and "other fatty seeds are used in powder as al-
mond bran alone or mixed with other oils; as washing powder
when mixed with soaps, alkalies, or sodii boras; and as pastes
and  emulsions.   These  are very  mild fatty and washing
agents and  render the rough, raw, dry skin of the face  and
hands tender  and flexible, and  at  the  same  time cleanse it
thoroughly.  They are also entirely harmless.

   IJ Amygd. amar. decort. cont.,  .     .    .   § viij.
      Mellis,.......§ xvi.
      Vitell. ovor.,......No. viij.
      01. amygd. dul.,.....§ xvi.
      Ess. bergam.,
       "  caryoph.,.....aa  3 ij.
   M.  S. Honey almond paste.

   IJ Amygd. am. decort. cont.,  ...   § xxv.
      Aq. rosae,......3 xxviij.
      Alcoholis,......| xv.
      Ess. bergam.,.....| iij.
   M.  S. Almond paste.
 IJ Farin. amygd. decort.,.
   Rad. irid. pulv.,
   Ess. citri.,
    "   amygd.,.
M.  S. Almond meal.

 IJ Pistac. decort. cont.,
   Pulv. iridis,    .   - .
   Ess. neroli,
    "   citri,
M.  S. Pistachio meal.
 1 xxxiij.
 iij.
 iss.
Til XV.
3 xvi.
3 xvi.
Til XXX.
1 ss. 
Cosmetics.
77
   IJ  Farin. amygd. decort.,   ....   § xvi.
      Amyl. oryz.,......3 iv.
      Pulv. irid. flor.,......1 iss.
      Sapon. pulv.,......3 iss.
      Ess. amygd.,......gtt. xx.
   M.  S. Almond powder.

   IJ  Semin. excort. hippocast. pulv.,    .    .   3 hiss.
      Amygd. amar. pulv.,.....3 iss.
      Rhiz. irid. flor.,......3 iss.
      Sod. carbon, dil.,.....3  iij.
      01. bergam.,......nixxx.
   M.  S.  Washing powder  for rough  and chapped hands
(Wiegleb-Hager).

   IJ  Amygd.,  .    .     .    .     .    .     .  i ss.
   Cont. misc. c.
      Aq. flor. aurant.,
       "  rosae,......aa 3 ij.
   Col. expr. adm.
      Sodii bor.,.......gr. xvij.
      Tinct. benzoini,.....m xxx.
   M.  S.  Eau cosmetique de Vienne (Bernatzik27).

   IJ  Farin. amygd. amar.,.....3 vi-
      01. amygd. amar.,.....3 "iss.
      Mellis,"........ixiJ-
      Vitell. ovor.,......No. viij.
      Sod. carb.,.....>    •  3l-
   In Aq. rosae q. s. solut.
   Ft. pasta (Debay).

   IJ  Amj^gd. dulc. decort.,.....3 viij.
      Aq. rosae,.......S xix.
      Succ. rad. taraxac. expr.,   .    .     .    •    § i-
      Spir. tuberos.,......3 V11J-
      01. virid.,
      Cerae,
      Sapon.  oleac,.....aa  3 rj.
   M.  S.  Lait de Pissenlit (dent-de-lion, Piesse). 
78
Cosmetics.
   IJ  Cer. alb.,
      Cetacei,
      01. amygd.,
      Sap. amygd.,......aa 3 i.
   Subigr. c. Spir. vini rectif.,                    i iss.
   Admisce emuls. par. e.
      Amygd. dulc,......§ ss.
   Ad Aq. rosae,
      Aq. fl. naphae,.....aa 1 v.
   M.  S. Lait de lilas (Bern.).

   The application of fat to the skin is most frequently made
by rubbing it in lightly with the hand; for the face it is better
to use a fine cloth, by means of which only a small amount of
the fat is rubbed into the skin;  the hands are  salved by the
motions of ordinary washing.   Face and hand pomades are
best used in the evening, after the skin has been washed and
thoroughly dried.  In most cases where fat is indicated—that
is, when  the  skin is rough, dry, and  dull—the pomade used
should be wiped off with a cloth so that only a thin, scarcely
perceptible layer is left on the skin.  Powder is often dusted
over this layer of fat and serves to retain it.
   In order to have the fat  act more effectually on the skin
or to prevent the soiling of the clothes and bed linen, the
anointed spots are sometimes covered  with light woollen stuff
or doeskin.   The hands are often oiled and then gloves drawn
on and  worn either all day or  only during the  night.  The
gloves, which should be suede or of doeskin, may be themselves
treated with  oil or a mixture of almond-oil  and yolk of egg.
In the first case, the glove is turned wrong side out and coated
with a fairly solid salve.  In the second, the glove is kneaded
in the mixture and then kept in a cool  place.  The prepara-
tions  of almond or other oily seeds are used either as washing
agents or as combined washing and oiling agents.  The al-
mond powder and the  thick almond paste  are mixed with
water and a  thin paste made, which  may be applied to the
face and hands at night, and wiped off with a cloth or  washed
off with water in the morning.
   Associated with the fat on account of its origin is 
Cosmetics.
79
                        Glycerin.
   It is  a clear, odorless,  colorless, neutral, syrupy liquid,
sweetish in taste, which dissolves readily in water, mixes with
alcohol and etheric alcohol in all proportions, and is insoluble
in ether, chloroform, and the fatty oils.   In the saponification
of the fats, which are glycerides of the fatty acids, glycerin is
set  free, and is found in the excess of lye in  the soaps, and in
water which  has been used for washing.  It is  obtained  for
the most  part by the breaking up of fats by means of  over-
heated steam, as in the manufacture of  stearin candles.  Gly-
cerin is markedly hygroscopic, absorbing as  much as fifty per
cent of water from the air.   It is of special importance on ac-
count  of  its  physiological action.  Rubbed  briskly  into the
unbroken skin, it causes redness and burning, which is  more
severe in parts not covered by epidermis, as cracks and fissures
in the skin of chapped hands.   The burning is caused by the
abstraction of water from the skin.  Since  it does  not dry,
and forms a regular slippery coating over the skin, it was used
in practice, immediately after its introduction, to take the
place of  the  oils.  It permeates living animal  tissues very
readily, and  makes these succulent and translucent.  It is to
be  used  for  this  purpose only conditionally, since in many
cases not only is an eczema or chapping of the skin  made
worse, but even a naturally delicate  skin is  made rough, fis-
sured, and lustreless.  For many persons  the  inunction  of
glycerin is much more unpleasant than the inunction of oils.
Many individuals bear it exceptionally well even on a diseased
skin, and especially well when  combined with oils or mucous
substances.
    Its employment for lessening the corroding action of  soaps
and as an ingredient of soap  in general has been spoken of
above.   Aside from  its peculiar cosmetic action, glycerin is
much used in cosmetics as  a non-drying  menstruum in which
a number of  substances may be dissolved.  If it be used alone
for cosmetic purposes, it must be entirely pure, free from fatty
acids,  such as formic and  butyric  acids, and acrolein, and
be applied much diluted.   Its supporters say that under its
use the skin takes on a high degree of flexibility, softness, and
lustre, and that it  frees  the skin  from dirt;  they recom-
mend  its use as a washing and protecting agent  when  the 
8o
Cosmetics.
skin is raw, fissured, lustreless, and scaly, and when the lips
and nipples are sore.
   The manner  in which glycerin  is commonly used by per-
sons who desire  smooth  hands is very rational.  After wash-
ing, while the hands are  still damp, diluted glycerin is poured
on, and the hands are then dried.

   IJ Glycerini,.......3 vij.
      Vitell.  ovor.,.......3 vi.
   M.  S. Salve for chapped lips and hands (glyconin).
IJ Glycerini,.....
   Aq. naphae,.....
   01. neroli,
   01. amygd. amar,
M.  S. To be rubbed on the hands.

IJ Tragacanth. pulv.,
   Aq. rosae,
   Glycerini,  .
   Tinct. benzoini,  .
   01. aurant. flor., .
xvi.
viij.
aa gr. vrj.
3 hj.
3vi.
3 iss.
3 hj.
gtt. v.
   M.  S. Glycerin paste to be used in place of soap for wash-
ing the face and hands (Hager).

   IJ Cerae flav.,
      Cetacei,......aa. 3 i.
      01. amygd.,......3 vi.
      Sodii bor.,.......gr. xvi.
      Acid, benzoini,......gr. viij.
   Sol. in
      Glycerini,.......3 ij.
      Aq. destil.,......v\ xxiv.
      01. rosae,.......gtt. ij.
   F. massa mollis (Hager).   S. For raw skin, fissures, and
chilblains.

   The glycerin is the  important agent  in  the  unguentum
glycerini, which is prepared from tragacanth (German Phar.)
or wheat  starch  and glycerin by warming.  The irritating
action of the glycerin is almost wholly wanting in  this fine
transparent  salve. The following may be used for  cosmetic
purposes in the same  manner as cold cream: 
Cosmetics.
IJ Amyli,........3 i,
   Aq. rosae,.......3i.
   Glycerini,.......| iij,
   01. rosae,.......gtt. ij.
F. ungt.  S. Glycerin cold cream.
                         Alcohol.

    As  a cosmetic agent  to  preserve the lustre and fresh-
 ness  of the skin, alcohol is  valuable, almost indispensable.
 This  is not  true of  absolute or  slightly-diluted  alcohol.
 Ethyl-alcohol undiluted extracts water from the skin and ren-
 ders it  dry and rough;  it also dissolves the secretion of  the
 sebaceous glands  and so removes the fat of the skin and con-
 sequently its lustre.   When the skin is washed with  alcohol,
 its evaporation produces  a pleasant feeling  of  cold. If its
 evaporation be prevented, it irritates the skin and reddens it.
 This condition of irritation may be intense, or may become an
 actual  superficial dermatitis, since the alcohol is  absorbed by
 the external skin and acts as a  foreign body on the deeper
 layers.   For this reason concentrated alcoholic fluids are sel-
 dom used as cosmetics, and only when the skin of the face is
 unusually oWy, or to remove the sweat and fat from the hairy
 parts of the body. Dilute alcoholic fluids may be used as  ap-
 plications to contused spots;  also to wash an eczema madi-
 dans and in habitual  hypersecretion of sweat.  Diluted with
 three or four times its bulk of water, alcohol serves as a beau-
 tifying  agent for preserving a fresh and rosy complexion.
    Pure alcohol is seldom used for this purpose, but usually it
 forms the menstruum for the perfumes of toilet-waters, and is
 occasionally used in the form of wine which is poor in  alcohol.
 The employment of the latter, as  well as of the more  concen-
 trated alcoholic fluids, is for the purpose of making the skin
 tenser and  of increasing its tone.  Bathing with  cognac and
 eau de cologne is  indicated in fainting, both because of their
intense  odor and on account of their  tonic action on the skin.
Bathing the eyes,  cheeks, and wrists  is always successful, ex-
cept in  very severe cases.  When alcohol or alcoholic tinc-
tures  are used for washing, only  a small  quantity is  poured
into the water, so  that the alcohol has but little effect; when
         G 
82
Cosmetics.
wine is used, the alcohol has a more considerable action.  The
action of the alcohol is only got in local bathing of the hands,
the breast, the back, etc., with wine;  with red wine the tan-
nic acid  present is also active.  The accounts of the use of
undiluted wine for full baths are merely legendary, as for ex-
ample in the case of one of the most  famous singers of our
day, who talked of the champagne baths which she enjoyed in
the time of her pregnancy.


                     The  Alkalies.

   The only alkalies which have a cosmetic use are the oxy-
hydrates of potassium  and  sodium  and the  carbonates  of
these, and sodii boras in which the action of the acidum bori-
cum is to be considered.
   To this group belong also the combinations of potassium
and  sodium with sulphur, caustic lime, calcii  sulphidum, and
the soluble calcium salts, as well as the rarely-used ammonia
combinations.
   The action  of  the  alkalies depends on their power of ab-
stracting water from the tissue, of  precipitating living albu-
min, of  dissolving keratin,  horny substances,  and  mucin,
and  of  loosening and destroying  tissue and even  dissolv-
ing it.
   The caustic action of the oxyhydrates of the alkalies and of
calcium  depends  upon their property of abstracting water,
and on the reaction to  living albumin.  They are, therefore,
in a narrow  sense, not cosmetics.  The physician  occasion-
ally uses one of these agents for removing a wart  or a corn,
though  more  suitable remedies are  mostly  employed; but
since unpleasant  results may follow the application of dilute
solutions of these for cosmetic purposes, it is  well to say
a word  about their caustic properties.  After their applica-
tion the epidermis softens, and after a short time an eschar is
formed  much  larger than the  spot to which the agent was
applied, since it flows freely; and with the formation of this
eschar a severe burning is  felt.  When  caustic lime  is used
the eschar is  not so large.   The oxyhydrates of the alkalies
have the strongest caustic action; the simple carbonates act
in a similar manner, but much less severely. 
                         Cosmetics.                       g ->

   When, under  the  application of dilute alkalies, the outer
layers of the epidermis become dissolved, further applications
irritate the underlying tissues and cause a new formation of
cells.  Dilute alkalies may also saponify the fatty secretion of
the  skin and thus serve partly as a cleansing, partly  as  a
curative agent, since they prevent the stopping of the seba-
ceous follicles and the formation of comedones.  In  many per-
sons these will  remove the oily gloss of the skin; and finally,
by combining with free fatty acids they may remove the dis-
agreeable odor of the sweat and other secretions of the skin.
All these properties  make these not  only valuable cosmetic
agents, but adapt them for preparatory treatment.
   The caustic  potassa and soda, on account of their strong
caustic action, are to  be applied only by the hand of the phy-
sician, and are  even then but rarely used for the removal of
warts and callosities.  They are occasionally used  diluted for
the gradual removal of corns and pigment spots.
   The alkaline  carbonates, because of their lesser  caustic
action, are much  more frequently used for cosmetic purposes.
They serve  to remove the fat from  the skin and so prevent
acne, and they remove also the fat from  the hair.  Since they
cause swelling  and casting off of the superficial layers of the
skin, they are used to cure warts and  corns, and are applied
to thickened misformed finger-nails.   They are  also used for
the removal of freckles and similar small pigment spots; they
have, however, no bleaching action,  and the cure,  as with
other agents, is apt to be merety temporary.
   The continued use of the alkaline  carbonates  makes the
skin and the scalp dry, rough, and sensitive, and the hairs be-
come dry and  brittle.  They are, therefore, contra-indicated
when the skin is delicate, thin, or sensitive.  Cosmetic errors,
such as dandruff formation, for which these agents  are em-
ployed, may even be  caused  by them.   The nature of the af-
fection should first be considered.

   IJ  Potassii carbon.,......3 ss.
      Tinct. benzoini,......3 iij.
      Aq. rosa3,.......3 iiiss.
  M.  S. Add one tablespoonful to the wash water. 
84
Cosmetics.
   IJ  Potas. carb.,......3 nj.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 iiiss'
      01. aeth. cinnam.,.....gtt. ij-
       "    "   rosae,......gtt. i.
   M.  S. (Substantially the same as the proprietary remedy
Lilionese.)  To be used with  a  damp sponge  for  hypersecre-
tion of fat from the skin; useful in comedo and acne.
   IJ  Sodii carb.,.......3 i.
      Aq. rosae,.......1 hiss.
      Glycerini,.......§ iss.
      Extr. mille flor.,......gtt. x.
   M.  S. For washing the face when oily, and in acne.
   IJ  Potassii carb.,......3 ss.
Sod. silic,  .
Sapon.,
Muc. gum. arab.,
Glycerini,  .
Aq.,  .
Ess. mirobolan.,
01. neroli,  .
3i.
gr. xvi.
3i.
3 hj.
3 hiss.
gtt. v.
gtt. ij.
   M.
edy).
S.  Birch balsam (Dr. F. Lengyel's proprietary  rem-
      Potassii acet.,......gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 iss.
      Spir. vini rect.,
      01. rosae,       ......ad lib.
   M.  S. Kimball's remedy for freckles.
   To this group  belong a number of proprietary remedies
which are  in reality solutions of potassii carbonas, and are
recommended as specifics against freckles, pigment  and ery-
thematous spots.  The manner of their application is simple.
Concentrated solutions are either added to the wash water or
applied to the skin with a moist sponge. Dilute solutions can be
used for washing  the skin, or cloths dipped in these may be
laid upon the skin and left there, perhaps, during the night;
remedies for removing freckles are generally used in this way.
This method  may be used for the removal of corns and callos-
ities if concentrated potash lyes are employed, if one does not
prefer to remove these growths with pumice-stone dipped in
lye, as many of the "corn operators" clo. 
Cosmetics.
§5
   With the potassa preparations should be classed the po-
tassa creme (when it is not simple potash soap), which accord-
ing to its concentration is numbered 1, 2, 3,4.

   IJ Glycerini,    ....  3 iss.
      01. rosae,
      01. flor. aurant.,  .    .    aa gtt. ij.
      Potassii carb. solut.,   .     .  3 ss.- 3 i.- 3 ij.- 3 iv.
   M.   S. Potassa creme (Kaposi).  To be used in the form of
poultices for freckles, etc.

   IJ Pot. caust. fusi,......3 i-
      Aq. dest.,.......1 iij.
   M.   S. Add to a quart of warm water, as a  foot or hand
bath in extensive callosities.

   Aqua calcis acts  in a similar way, but more mildly.  Com-
bined with equal parts of ol. lini or ol. olivar., it is a popular
remedy for burns.   In Assures of  the  skin and chapped hands
it may be used as follows:

   ^ Tragacanth. subt. pulv.,  .    .   .    .   3 iij.
      Glycerini,.......iiss.
      Aq. calcis,
      Aq. rosae,......aa 3 iiss.
   M.   S. To be painted on in the affections mentioned and in
sore nipples.

   The caustic lime is mixed  with caustic potassa  or  used
alone as a caustic agent on warts and pigment naevi, and ac-
casionally for destroying large pigment blotches.

   IJ Potas. caust. sicci,......3 ij-
      Calc. ust.,.......3 l
   M. f. bacilli.  S. Caustic points to be used on  corns, etc.

   IJ Calcar. hydr.,
      Sapon. oleac.  pulv.,    .     •    .    •    aa, 3 i.
      Spir. sapon.,.......3 ss.
   M. f. pasta mollior.  S. To be left on for eight to ten hours
and  then removed. 
86
Cosmetics.
IJ Potassii carbon.,.....gr- xvl-
   Borac. venet.,   .    .    .    .    »        3 ss.
Solv. in
   Aq. rosae,
    "  rub. idaei,
    "  colon.,.....aa  3 ss.
Filtr.; adde
   Talc, venet.,......3 iij.
M.   S. Lihonese, another prescription (Neumann).

IJ Potas. carb.,......3 iij.
      "   chlor.,......3 iss.
   Borac. venet.,......3 ss.
   Aq. rosae,
     "  naph.,......aa  3 iss.
   Sacch. alb.,.......i iss.
   Glycerini,.......3 i.
Filtra.  S. Water for freckles.

]J Sodii bor.,  .    .     .    .    .    .    .   3 ss.
   Aq. rosae,
   Aq. fl. naphae,.....aa, 3 hiss.
M.  S. Water recommended by Hufeland for freckles.

IJ Borac.  venet.,......3 i.
   Ungt. emoll.,.......3 iss.
M. f. ungt.  S. Cream for making the hands white and soft.

IJ Amygd. amar.,......3 ij.
F. c. Aq. rosae,.......§ hiss.
L. a. emulsio;  adde
   Sodii bor.,.......3 i.
   Trae. benzoin.,......3 iiss.
M.  S. Toilet  water.

 IJ Aq. fl.  naphae,......§ xxxiij.
   Glycerini,.......§ iss.
   Sodii bor.,......3 iss.
M.  S. Lotion a la glycerine (Piesse). 
Cosmetics.
8;
   IJ  Borac. venet.,......3 i.
      Potas. chlor.,......gr. xvi.
      Spir. resed.,......3 ss.
      Aq. rosae,
       "  naphae,.....aa 3 vi.
   M. filtra. S. Water for freckles (Neumann).

   IJ  Amyl. oryzae,......§ i.
      Sodii bor.,.......3 iss.
      Aq. colon.,.......q. s.
   M. f. p.   S. Powder.

   IJ  Borac. venet.,......3 ss.
      Lact. vaccin.,......3 hiss.
      Extr. de roses-the,.....gtt. x.
   M.  S. Milk for washing the face at night.

   Borax is one of the  best  cosmetic agents.   Its advan-
tages consist not only in  its entire harmlessness, but also in
its very mild action, which, though similar to that of the dilute
alkaline carbonates, has still an individual action like that of
a neutral soap.  Washing with  solutions  of sodii boras is
almost never contra-indicated.  To obtain the desired effect,
a solution as nearly concentrated as possible should be used.
It dissolves in twelve to fifteen  parts of cold water.   It is
pencilled  on the skin  and left to dry, or  fomentations are
made with it.  For the cure of ephelides, or of moderate sebor-
rhoea of  the face, one of  the previously-mentioned waters
should be used.  In hyperidrosis, cold  applications of five to
eight per cent solutions  of sodii boras, foot-baths with this,
and the use of  a powder like the following are recommended:
   IJ Alumin. plumosi,......3 iy-
      Sodii bor. pulv.,......f i.
   M.  S. Dust into the stockings.
   Salves of borax are indicated when the skin is dry and
cracked and when there is visible  exfoliation.

                           Acids.

   The agents previously mentioned  are mostly cleansing
agents;  they may have at times, however, a curative action
also.  The acids are not indifferently-acting substances, and 
88
Cosmetics.
most of them  require care  in their employment,  although
many have long been used by the laity for cosmetic  purposes.
In the local application of the acids, the  degree of concentra-
tion is of importance.  Concentrated mineral acids coagulate
the albumin, abstract water from  the tissues, oxidize and de-
stroj7 them more or less deeply and extensively.
   The destroyed tissue and  the combinations which the  acid
makes with it form at the spot of application an eschar, which
varies with the different acids.  Organic acids  have a similar
effect.   The eschar after the use of acidum  sulphuricum  is
moist  and  brown; bright yellow and dry after acidum nitri-
cum; yellowish-brown and dry after acidum chromicum.  Lac-
tic  acid produces a gray or  brown  moist  eschar; the  acetic
acids a white eschar,  often red or  brown on its surface from
superficial extravasations of blood.  Acidum salicylicum forms
a white eschar, and phenol, which may be put here on account
of its  similar action, forms  a white eschar, later becoming
leathery-brown.  The color of  the eschar is to be considered
when applications are to  be  made to the face  or scalp.   The
acids are used for the removal of naevi, warts,  callosities,  and
papillomata. After their careful application, only superficial
cicatrices remain.  Care  must be taken of the surrounding
skin when fluid mineral acids are employed, and this must be
protected by plaster, or the fluid must be dropped  a  drop  at a
time on the spot wished and not be allowed to spread.  In  this
manner are to  be  used concentrated acidum sulphuricum,
fuming acidum nitricum, acidum lacticum, acidum aceticum,
acidum carbolicum, and crystallized acidum  chromicum or
concentrated solutions of the latter. In using concentrated
solutions of acidum salicylicum, the healthy skin must be  pro-
tected, since this, like  the other acids mentioned, irritates the
skin and causes inflammation and the formation of vesicles.
   These unpleasant  symptoms are often  observed  after the
use of tourist's plaster (salicylate adhesive plaster),  or salicy-
late gutta-percha plaster, when the corn or callosity is not so
much affected as the surrounding skin, which  is raised  in the
form of a white blister.
   Intelligently applied, acidum nitricum and acidum chromi-
cum, as well as acidum  lacticum  and acidum aceticum, act
mildly.
   For caustic purposes these acids are  applied with a glass 
Cosmetics.
89
rod, e.g.,  acidum sulphuricum,  or with a stick, e.g., acidum
nitricum,  or are made  up into  the form of convenient pastes
and salves.  Such are the mixture of concentrated acidum
sulphuricum with carbon, the acidum  sulphuricum solidiflca-
tum, jestingly  called by  Ricord pate d'amandes douces, and
a mixture of acidum nitricum  with oil or adeps oleum,  un-
guentum  oxygenatum.  Acidum  chromicum  is to be applied
in crystals or in very concentrated aqueous solution; acidum
lacticum and aceticum are to be used pure; acidum salicylicum
in concentrated alcoholic solution  or  in  collodion or gutta-
percha plaster mull (20, 40, 50$).
    IJ  Acidi chromici,......3 iss.
       Aq. destillat.,......3 iij.
    M.  S. Apply with a glass rod to flat warts.
    IJ  Acid, salicyl.,.......3 i.
       Alcoh. absol.,.......3 v.
    M.  S. To be painted on naevi  with a brush.
    As to the  manner  of  application,  it should be said that
corns and callosities are first to be softened  by warm baths,
soda or potash being added in some cases, then loosened with
a dull knife, and  finally acidum  salicylicum  or aceticum ap-
plied with a brush.
    The loosening of the horny layers and the caustic effect
are both gotten by the employment of acidum salicylicum in
plaster form;  after a few days cf such application the warts
may be lifted off, together with the plaster.
    The acids are more  extensively used largely diluted.  Aci-
dum boricum,  tartaricum, and  citricum are used  in  both con-
centrated and dilute solutions.  Continued washing with these
removes the fat from the skin,  dries the epidermis, and makes
the skin  rough,  dry, and fissured;  longer application  of
stronger  solutions causes superficial reddening of the skin and
slight burning; when used for a short time only they act as
astringents, increase the  tone  of the  skin, and contract the
superficial vessels.
    These acids also lessen the  secretion of the sweat glands,
and prevent in part the decomposition of  the  sweat, thus pre-
venting the odor.
    They  are  used in practice to  remove  erythematous spots
from the  skin of the face, hands, and feet.  The oldest and most 
go
Cosmetics
useful  of  these agents is vinegar; the toilet vinegars, aceta
cosmetica, vinaigres de toilette, are important agents in per-
fumery.  The vinegar in perfumes, however, has little specific
effect;  in  the  concentration  which is generally used, little
more is noticed than the stimulating odor.
   Even  in these small quantities,  such  as  a teaspoonful
to a basin of water, they have a certain therapeutic value
when used daily, since they have an astringent action on the
skin.  For this reason, blondes with  a fine and sponge-like
skin prefer these to eau de cologne, which, as a rule, is chosen
by brunettes with a warmer and stronger complexion.
   Toilet  vinegars are usually bought from  the perfumers;
they may, however, be prescribed by physicians and prepared
by the apothecaries.  The first requisite of a toilet vinegar is
that it must be pure and good, free from acetone and other
impurities.  Either vinegar or acidum  aceticum may be used.
This requirement is fulfilled by mixing dilute acidum aceticum
with rose  or orange-flower water.   Acidum aceticum in alco-
holic solutions of  ethereal oils, or resinous and balsamic  sub-
stances, may be used as toilet vinegar; the ethereal oils and
balsams dissolved in glacial acetic acid may be added to the
vinegar.   The vinegars prepared with ethereal oils and bal-
sams are made cloudy by adding water, and form fluids simi-
lar to emulsions (lait virginal).
   IJ Bals. peruv.,.......31.
      Tinct. benzoini,......§ i.
      Bals. vit. Hofmanni,
      Spir. vini dil.,.....aa "
      Aq. rosae,.......
      Acid. acet. dil.,......
   Macera p. hebdom.; filtra
   IJ Acid. acet.  cone,
      Trae. lavand. angl., .
       "   rosmarini angl.,
       "   caryophyll.,
      Camphorae,
   M.  S.  Vinaigre aromatique (Piesse).
   IJ Aq. coloniens.,
      Acid. acet. cone,  ....
   M.  S.  Vinaigre de Cologne.
                    Vllj.
                   i v.
                •   iij-
S. Vinaigre de toilette (Hager).

                 iij-
                gr. xvi.
                 gr. viij.
                 gr. viij.
                 3ij.
xv.
ss. 
Cosmetics.
    IJ  Spir. vini rect.,  .
       Resin, benzoini, ....
       Acet. arom. cone,
       Bals. peruv.,    ....
       Tinct. neroli,    ....
       Tinct. nuc. mosch.,  .
    M.  S.  Vinaigre cosmetique (Lubin).

    IJ  Fol. menth. pip.,
        "  rosmarini,
        "  salviae,.....
       Rad. angelic,
         "   zingib.,
       Caryophyll.,.....
       Aceti,......
    Mac. p. 3  dies in  vas.  bene clauso.   S. Acetum quatuor
 latronum s. aromaticum (Austrian Phar.).

    IJ  Bulb, narciss.,......3 iss.
       Semin. urtic, .    .     .    .    .       § i.
       Aceti,.......Ixxxiij.
    Mac. p. 3 dies, exprime; filtra. S. Vinaigre deterrif (Debay).
 For acne pustules of the face.

    In order to remove blotches from  the skin, these vinegars
 must be pencilled on undiluted, rubbed in, or used as applica-
 tions.   In  place of these, lemon juice has long been used, which
 is painted  on, or fresh slices of lemon are laid on the erythe-
 matous  spots, chilblains, and freckles,  and left during the
 night;  dry, scaly eczema of the face is also  treated in this
 way with good results.
    Washing with acidum hyclrochloricum or nitricum is also
 of service in these cases.  James has used the  former in the
 treatment of erythematous  blotches and the various sorts of
 acne of the face.  He uses for this purpose the  liqueur styp-
 tique, a mixture of acidum hydrochloricum, alcohol, aqua  rosae
 and a gum, which is pencilled on the affected spot and lightly
 wiped  oil' again with a bit of cotton, so that only a thin layer
 remains.  The itching caused by this ceases in a few seconds,
 and the redness does not last over a half-hour.  The spots are
considerably paler even on the following day.  In a similar
maimer Hebra, junior, used a two to five per cent solution of
. 3X.	
• 3i.	
• 3 ij.	
• 3 ij.	
• gtt.	viij
. gtt.	Vllj
aa 3 i.
a a j) 1.
   i hiss. 
92                       Cosmetics.

acidum salicylicum or carbolicum; an  equally strong salve of
acidum salicylicum may be rubbed on the spot in the evening.
The form of acid employed must vary according to the nature
of the healthy skin of  the individual.  Acidum  salicylicum is
a less irritating agent than acidum carbolicum and tar prepa-
rations, in cases where formerly the latter were used, as in
moist eczema of the face.  According to Unna it has a marked
dermoplastic action; it irritates, and  stimulates in this way
the new formation of the cellular elements of the cutis.   The
irritation which it produces prevents its extensive use as a
cosmetic in the form of toilet water.
   If the skin be once injured in this way by the acid, the fur-
ther application of it is very painful.  On the other hand, the
removal  of freckles and ephelides is  only to be expected after
an intense application of the acid.  By rubbing  the  skin with
alcoholic solutions  of acidum salicylicum, it is  inflamed, the
superficial layers are cast off, and the spots vanish for a time.

    IJ Acid, muriat.,.....3 ss- 3 iiss.
      Alcohol.,
      Aq. rosae,.....aa i i.
      Muc. gumm. arab.,    .   .    .      3 i.
   M.  S. Liqueur styptique, after James.  The weaker solu-
tions are to be employed in the manner described for erythe-
matous blotches, the stronger solutions for acne rosacea every
second or third day.   For  the intervals the patient should
wash with weakly alkaline water.

    IJ Acid, salicyl.,.....3 ss- 3 iss.
      Spir. vini cone,.....§ hiss.
      Trae. neroli,......gtt. iv.
   M.  S. Erythematous patches on the face are to be rubbed
with  a bit of cotton  dipped  into the  solution,  and  then
sprinkled with powder.

    IJ Acid, salicyl.,......3  ss.
      Cold cream,.......3  fliss.
   M.  ft. ungt.  S. A  salve for erythema  and light moist
eczemas  of  the face.   To be used after washing with soap,
and to be followed by the dusting  on of powder.
   Partly on  account  of  their anti-putrid properties, partly
because of their sharp  odor, the acids are used to prevent and 
Cosmetics.
93
conceal the odor of local sweating.  They are also used on the
overheated skin, as in insolation, when there is no secretion
of sweat, to replace this in  cooling the  skin and making  it
pale.  Washing with dilute vinegar moderates the secretion
of sweat and removes its odor if this be not too intense.
   If the odor be very bad, or there be abundant secretion  of
sweat, as in the axillae,  on the  feet, and  about the genitalia,
these washings are not sufficient.  The opinion commonly held
by women that highly perfumed toilet vinegars are to be used
in such conditions is very erroneous.  Apart from the ineffect-
iveness of the procedure against the hypersecretion, the mix-
ture of the odor of the  sweat and  that of  the perfume is un-
bearable, and the suspicion is at once aroused that the strong
odor has been employed to conceal an offensive one.
   Especially unpleasant  for the patient and for his associ-
ates is the abundant sweating  of the feet, which, as  already
said, is often offensive  and  a  frequent  subject of cosmetic
treatment. Apart  from other remedies which are used  in
local sweating,  there are  some acids in  general use.  These
are acidum sulphuricum, acidum tartaricum, and acidum sal-
icylicum.  .The first is used in the form of a foot-bath; acidum
tartaricum is used  as such or as cream of tartar, by itself or
mixed with an indifferent  powder,  such as amylum  and alu-
men plumosum, or in the form of a solution in which the feet
are to be washed.  The  stockings may also  be soaked in this
solution and worn when  dry.
   The surest acting for sweating of the  feet  and axillae  is
the acidum salicylicum, which is included in the officinal sweat
powder of the German  Pharmacopoeia, pulvis salicylicus cum
talco.  In  later times, washing with acidum chromicum has
been recommended, not only, like the other agents mentioned,
as a palliative remedy, but for the  definite cure of the sweat-
ing.   The experience with this remedj" is still too limited to
allow of a definite decision regarding it;  the toxic properties
of the acidum chromicum  must not be forgotten, and it must
not be used where there are breaks in the skin, or in too con-
centrated solutions, which may cauterize.   If the agent be
used cautiously and according  to  the rules which serve for
the treatment of hyperidrosis in general, with cleanliness and
frequent changing of the clothes, it must  be followed by good
results.28 
94
Cosmetics.
    IJ  Acid, sulphur.,.....3 iss.
       Aq. calidae,......Ovi.
    M.  S. Foot-bath for sweating of the feet.  The feet should
 remain ten minutes in the bath, which is to be repeated every
 third or fourth day.
    IJ  Acid, salicyl.,.......3 i.
       Amyl. tritici,.......3 iij.
       Talc, praep.,.......§ iij.
    M.  S. Pulv. salicylicus cum talco  (German Pharm.).

    IJ  Potassii tartratis,......3 vi.
       Tale venet. praep.,.....§ iij.
       Trae. lavandul. angl.,.....3 ss.
    M.  S. Sweat powder.

    B  Acid, salicyl.,......3 ss.
       Tale pulv. alcohol.,.....3 hiss.
       01. rosae,.......q. s.
    Ad odor.
    M.  S.  Powder for local sweating, better than the officinal.
    IJ  Acid, chromici,.....3 ij.- 3 iij.
      Aq. destill.,......§ iiiss.
    M.  S.  To be pencilled before going to bed on the feet pre-
 viously washed and dried, and when necessary repeated after
 eight  to  fourteen  days.   One should  commence with  the
 weaker solution.
    Acidum boricum takes a position among the acids similar
 to that of sodii boras among the alkalies.   It produces neither
 the cauterization nor the irritation which the other acids do.
 Acidum boricum may be applied to the skin in any form what-
 soever, for as long a time as necessary, without  producing
 any injurious effect. Its action is similar to that of the soaps,
 but much milder, and it may be used  as well in acute  hyper-
 aemia as in chronic inflammatory conditions  of the skin.  It
 may be given with  good  effect in erythema, in hypersecretion
 of the sebaceous glands, and in hyperidrosis. ^The form in
 which it is to be applied depends here also on the condition of
 the healthy skin.   It is  not used often  enough  for cosmetic
 purposes, perhaps because it  is so insoluble, requiring three
 parts of boiling or twenty-six parts of cold water for its solu-
tion. 
Cosmetics.
95
   I>  Acid, borici,......3ij.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 hiss.
   M.  S. For application in erythema, small  compresses are
to be dipped in the fluid, and left over night on the reddened
places.

   1>  Acidi borici,......3 iss.
      Lanolini,
      Ungt. emoll.,......aa 3 i.
   M. ft. ungt.  S.  For  sunburnt skin it is to be spread on
cloth and applied.

   IJ  Acid, borici,.......3 iss.
      Vaselini,
      Empl. diach.,......aa 3 iij.
   M. f. emplast.  S. For a similar purpose on skin less sen-
sitive.

   Although  chemically they do not belong  here,  we shall
speak of  some substances containing acidum tannicum, and
some allied to acidum salicylicum.
   The substances containing tannin, as whose representative
we must take tannin itself, acidum tannicum from galls, pro-
duce, in a manner not satisfactorily explained,  a thickening of
the skin similar to that  produced in the skin of dead animals
by tanning.  This thickening is the most important  element
in the astringent action of tannin on the  superficial vessels,
although it probably also affects these directly.   Hypersecre-
tion is affected in different manners by acidum tannicum.  It
is used in chronic hyperaemia with relaxation of the tissues of
the skin—e.g., in chronic erythematous blotches, in chronic in-
flammatory chilblains, in seborrhoea and hyperidrosis. It has
also been used in teleangiectases and varices, and in superficial
excoriations.  In the latter  case its  action depends on the
protecting covering formed by the coagulation of the albumin.
Its application is somewhat restricted by the fact that the
portions  of the  skin so treated turn dark brown  or  black
under the influence of air and light.
   Tannin, and less  frequently oak bark and galls,  are pre-
scribed  in  aqueous  solution,  in  alcohol, glycerin, collodion,
and in salves and soaps.  The latter, sapo tannini, should be 
96
Cosmetics.
made from one part tannin and nine parts soap, and is recom-
mended as a wash in intertrigo.

   IJ Acid, tannici,......gr. xvi.
      Spir. vini rect.,
      Glycerini,......aa 3 i.
      Aq. destil.,.......§ iss.
   M.  S. To be used with a sponge in seborrhoea.

   IJ Acid, tannici,.......3 i.
      Sulph. praee,.......3ij.
      Ungt. emoll.,.......§ ij.
   M.  S. To be rubbed on blotches in the skin.

   Phenol  and its contained tar, allied to the acidum salicyli-
cum, have, as  is well  known, the property of moderating in-
flammatory symptoms of the skin and of contracting the ves-
sels of the skin.
   /? Naphthol, lately introduced, seems analogous in its action.
These substances may  then be used for the  same cosmetic
errors as the  acidum salicylicum—i.e., in hyperidrosis and in
seborrhoea, in  a fitting form of application.  The odor of aci-
dum carbolicum unfits  them for many  purposes; for others,
such as  sweating of the feet, it makes them more useful.
Naphthol does not irritate the skin, and is especially good in
many cases.
   IJ Acid, carbol.,......3 iij.
      Spir. vini rect.,
      Aq. destil.,.......§ viij,
   M.  S. For washing the feet.
   IJ ,3 Naphtholi,.......3 iij,
      Spir. vini gall.,......= vi,
      Spir. colon.,.......z ^
   M.  S. As  a wash in sweating of the soles and  palms
(Kaposi).
   IJ /? Naphtholi,......«.r# xvii
      Amyli seu talci veneti,   •     .    .    .   § hiss.
   M.  S. Powder for sweating of the feet.
   Following  these are a number  of substances frequently
used for cosmetic purposes, whose action resembles the action
of the foregoing agents on the skin.  These are the 
Cosmetics.
97
                   Balsams and Resins.
   Although cosmetically these are mostly used on account of
their pleasing  odor, they still have  an action of  their own.
This is due partly to the resinous acids and  ethereal oils, and
partly to the carburetted hydrogens contained in them.  The
least active are the resinous acids.  The  ethereal oils, on  the
contrary, so far  as they do  not act as agents improving  the
odor, have an irritating action on the skin and cause redness,
and even, in some cases, dermatitis.   Used in a proper dilution
they stimulate the skin moderately, and cause  an increased
circulation of the blood, by which the skin is reddened slightly
and made tenser—i.e., its tone is increased.
    The action of tar may be taken  as a type of that of  the
hydrocarbons contained in a number of balsams.  The action
in some cases is one directly opposed to that of the ethereal oils.
In many cases of chronic or subcutaneous hyperaemia of  the
pa pillary layer, tar acts as  a direct astringent to  the  vessels
and destroys them.  In a manner similar to tar, acts also the
creosote contained in it, which is regarded as an astringent
disinfecting agent, which dissolves the superficial layers of the
skin.
    After tar, come Peru and tolu balsam, fluid storax, ben-
zoin, myrrh, and other resins.
    Tar,  beech  tar (P. liquida), is a thick, oily, black fluid of
peculiar odor,  obtained by dry distillation of beech wood.   In
place of this is often used cade-oil (oleum juniperi empyreu-
maticum), yellowish-brown, of disagreeable odor, and birch
tar (oleum rusci), reddish-brown, thinty fluid, and having  the
odor of Russia leather.
    Peru balsam is a thick, reddish-brown  or black fluid of
pleasant, vanilla-like odor.   The semi-fluid, bright  yellow tolu
balsam has a similar odor.
    Benzoin is a fragrant, reddish-gray, resinous mass, in which
almond-formed, milky-white resinous bodies are deposited.
    Apart from the uses which tar and similar substances find
in a great number of severe skin diseases, tar is an  excellent
remedy for many forms of hyperaemia of  the skin, such as chil-
blains, and for exfoliation of the skin, for  seborrhoea, and often
for simple itching.  It may also be remarked that all the sub-
stances  of this group are very excellent anti-parasitic reme-
          7 
98
Cosmetics.
 dies.  The other balsams may be used for the same purposes
 as tar, being much milder, less caustic, and less inclined to
 cause itching.   They are  often  applied  as  a protection to
-slightly excoriated spots, and in cracked and  Assured skin.
    It cannot be said that the resins and balsams may be used
 unconditionally.  They are often  followed by results particu-
 larly unpleasant from a  cosmetic standpoint.   Tar is here
 also more marked in its action than the others.   While it is
 capable of curing hyperaemia in some cases, there are skins
 which have such an idiosyncrasy against it that its use causes
 even a local inflammation.  When tar is used on hairy parts
 a tar acne often follows, which consists of hard, inflammatory
 elevations with a black centre.  The possibility of the absorp-
 tion of the tar and of intoxication following its use should be
 borne in mind.
    The other resins (in alcoholic solution) and balsams also,
 if used too long, may injure the  skin by becoming deposited
 in the creases and  in  the ducts of  the sebaceous glands,
 thus causing the formation of comedones and making the skin
 rough and scaly.  This depositing of the resin in the creases is
 intended, when this is used  for concealing the wrinkles, a me-
 chanical filling of the depressions taking place.  In this man-
 ner benzoin and myrrh  are used, it being formerly believed
 that if  the face were smoked with the latter evenings after
 washing, the formation of wrinkles would be prevented.
    The substances mentioned are seldom used  alone, but gen-
 erally in solutions and pomades, and frequently combined with
 other agents of energetic action.   A very popular form is that
 of lait virginal (lac virginis), which is  made  by mixing alco-
 holic tinctura benzoini with water, and from the precipitation
 of the resin in fine drops it forms a milky emulsion-like fluid.
 In this  manner vinaigre virginal and  numerous other  milky
 cloudy fluids may be  produced  by diluting resin or balsam
 solutions (in alcohol or  acidum  aceticum) with water.  Such
 mixtures may be used of course as menstrua for active sub-
 stances.  This is  generally the case with the cosmetic fluids
 (laits) of this sort in the market, which  usually, besides the
 resin, contain salts  of lead and mercury.  Very often toilet
 waters  of this sort are  only cloudy, aromatic  solutions of
 plumbi acetas. or soap emulsions, which contain this or other
 injurious preparations of lead.  Although the unadulterated 
Cosmetics.
99
 lait virginal, as said befere, may injure the complexion when
 used for a long time, it is a very innocent toilet water in com-
 parison with these other preparations.
    In preparing toilet waters of this sort, which may be done
 at home, the resin solutions are to be added gradually to  the
 water and shaken continually.

    IJ Tinct. benzoini,......3 iiss.
      Aq. rosae,.......§ iiiss.
    M.   S. Lait virginal.

    IJ Tinct. bals. tolut.,......3 ss.
      Aq. rosae,........3 vi.
    M.   S. Lait virginal a la rose.

    IJ Tinct. benzoini,......3 ij.
      Aq. flor. sambuci,.....§ viij.
    M.   S. Extrait de fleurs de sureau (Piesse).

    IJ Trae. benzoini,......3 i.
      Potas. carbon.,
      Spir. camphor.,.....aa gr. xvi.
      Aq. coloniens.,......3" viiss.
      Tinct. ambr. mosch.,.....tit, iv.
    M.   S. Eau de princesse.

    In a similar manner, lait virginal is  to  be prescribed  to-
 gether with some other distilled water, such as aq. naphae.  In
 order not to do harm,  it is so prescribed  that  one or two
 spoonfuls may be put into  the wash  water.   Exceptionally,
 when active substances  have been  dissolved in the milk, it
 may be pencilled on or used as an application, like the eau de
 princesse just given.  The following mixture may be pencilled
 on chilblains:

    IJ  Bals. Peruvian!,......3 i.
      Mixt. oleosobalsam.,
      Aq. coloniens.,......aa 3 i.
   M.  S.  For external application (Rust).

   This agent may also be combined with soap,  as for  ex-
ample : 
IOO
Cosmetics.
IJ  Sebi bovini,
   Picis nigr.,
   Liq. sod. caust.,    ....
Calefac, coque ad spissit. Sapon. pond.,
M.  S. Tar soap (Auspitz).
aa, 3 vi.
.   I iss.
   IJ  Sebi bovini,
      01. cocois,......afi 3 hiss.
      Liq. potas. caust. sp. gr. 1.45,   .    .       3 vi.
   Calefac f. sapo  cui adde
      Pulv.  lapid.  pumicis,.....3 hiss.
      Creosoti puri,......3ij.
      01. cinnamomi,......gr. xvi.
      01. citri,.......3 ss.
   F. frust.  pond.,......3 ij.
   S.  Creosote soap (Auspitz).
   This creosote soap is at the same time a pumice-stone soap,
and may be prescribed as such without the creosote.  A ben-
zoin soap  has already been mentioned.  In the application of
this, the action  of the  soap should not be lost sight of, and
with the tar soap, the possibility of the unfavorable action of
the tar.  Many of these substances may also be prescribed in
the form of  pastes or powders and be used as washing agents.
    IJ Amygd. dulc,......3 i.
               amar.,.....3 iiss.
      Bals.  peruviani,
      Mollis albi,......aa 3 i.
   M. ft.  pasta.   S.  A piece as large as a hazel-nut should
be rubbed with water in the hand and  then  on the face a,nd
hands.  For removing wrinkles.

   IJ Benzoini,........3 vi.
      Sapon. domest.,......3 ij.
      Sodii  bor.,
      Sodii  carb.,......aa  3 iiss.
      Rhiz. ir. flor.,
      Talci veneti,......aa,  3 ij.
      01.  bergam.,.......3ij.
   M. f. pulv. subtilis.  S. To be used  in the  wash water in
cases of comedones (Hager).  The  sodii boras and the sodii
carb. are here the active ingredients. 
Cosmetics.
IOI
   Ichthyol should be mentioned here.  This is a fluid oil ob-
tained by the dry distillation of a bituminous mineral of Tyrol,
or in a narrower sense the salts of the sulphichthyolic acid
contained in the oil.  Formerly ammoniae hydrochloras was
improperly called  ichthyol.  This is  a repulsive smelling and
appearing substance which probably has the action described
by Unna, and on this account is not adapted for cosmetic pur-
poses.  Ichthyol is but seldom employed with us.  The follow-
ing mixture  might theoretically be prescribed for pigmenta-
tion of the skin:
   IJ Ammon. sulfoichthyol.,
      Bol. rubr.,
      Trae. curcumae,......q. s.
   Ut f. pasta.
   This paste is meant to exclude the chemical effect of the light.
Since, as said before, the ephelides are at least not entirely due
to the action of the sun, this paste will not have a more marked
effect than sulphur-tar pastes, which are often of value in cases
of pigmentation, and to which the ichthyol is allied.

               Agents Irritating the Skin.

   The agents coming in this category act mostly by produc-
ing first a hyperaemia of the skin, then, if continued, a derma-
titis, and finally a  deep  ulcer.   Many  of these are used in
therapy merely as skin irritants.  If the action stops at the
hyperaemia, as  with veratrine,  and with the cosmetic agent
tinctura veratri albi, there is no objection to the application
of these, since, apart from the general action, which can easily
be prevented, there are no bad effects to be feared.  For this
reason the results obtainable are very slight, for since these
agents affect only the sensory nerves  of  the  skin and the
superficial vessels in a transitory manner, the removal of pig-
ment spots,  for example, is impossible.
   It is otherwise with the application of such substances as
may cause dermatitis and  the formation of vesicles.  In this
case the skin is destroyed down to the corium, and the pig-
ment masses collected there are also destroyed.   Agents like
cantharides, mezereum, croton oil, and mustard oil, might be
used for destroying new growths and pigment spots, if it were
not known that after this destruction great collections of pig- 
102
Cosmetics.
ment form in the new rete Malpighi.   We have seen before
that this new formation of pigment caused these agents to be
used when there was a lack of pigment in the skin, as in small
circumscribed vitiligo spots;  yet this employment has the
disadvantage  that the  new-formed pigment  varies both in
quantity and kind from  the normal.  This is least the case
with mustard  oil, which, because it has a transitory reddening
effect on the skin that is not injurious when small quantities
are u,sed, is often employed to redden  the face and  hands.
For this purpose  a  solution of ethereal mustard oil 1:250 in
water or dilute  alcohol  is sufficient.  For the removal of
freckles stronger solutions must be used.

    IJ Spir. sinapis,
      Aq. coloniensis,.....aa,  i i.
      Aq. rosae,       ......% hiss.
   M.  S. To be painted on the freckles.
    IJ Sodii bor. pulv.,......3 i.
      Acid, salicyl.,......3 ss.
      Aq. ros.,
      Aq. flor. aur.,.....aa | iiss.
   Liqu., filtr., admisce
      Tinct. benzoini,
      Bals. vitae Hoffm.,
      Spir. sinapis,......aa 3 i.
   M.  S. Shake.  Parisian water for freckles (Hager).

   In this mixture the sodii boras and  the acidum salicylicum
are the chief active substances.  Mixtures of mezereum and
croton oil might  be used, but are  not to be recommended.
Cantharides  is also unadapted for  this purpose.  Since the
last-named agent may cause a more or  less deep destruction
of the skin, it can  be employed  for  the  removal  of warts,
corns, etc.
    IJ Empl. plumbi comp.,                   § iss.
      Empl. galbani,......3 iij.
      Picis naval.,......| i.
      Ammon. muriat. subt. pulv.,
      iEruginis subt. pulv.,                aa, gr. xxv.
      Cantharidum,......gr. xvi.
    M. ft. empl.  S. Corn plaster (Hager). 
Cosmetics.                      103
                   Iodine Preparations.
   In its action on the skin, iodine resembles the last-named
agent.  If iodine  be  applied  to  the  skin, immediately if the
solution  be concentrated, after a time if it be dilute, the skin
takes on a yellow or dark brown  color, which may be removed
by the  alkalies while it  is still fresh, but which, if not  dis-
turbed,  continues until the  superficial layers of the epidermis
are cast off.  If iodine be used in substance and its evapora-
tion  be  prevented, there is produced a dermatitis with the
formation of vesicles and a pricking, burning pain.   This pain
and the dermatitis frequently do not come on after a single
application of dilute  iodine solution; but  after repeated pen-
cillings  a more or  less severe  pain comes on, and a great vesi-
cle is formed over the whole extent  of the surface pencilled.
If the application be now suspended, the  elevated superficial
skin, with the exudate, dries to a parchment-like elastic sheet,
beneath which  the delicate new-formed  epidermis presents
itself.  If the application be continued after the formation of
the vesicle, the  dermatitis may  increase and, extending into
the corium, cause  a very painful, slow destruction of the skin.
Iodine then, in small quantities, diluted, and used  for a short
time, acts as a slightly  irritating  agent to the skin, which
may relieve a superficial hyperaemia in a relaxed and loosened
skin; in larger quantities, applied more concentrated or for a
longer time, it acts as a destructive  agent on the superficial
layers of the skin.  For our purposes, the  action of iodine and
its preparations in hastening absorption is of no importance.
As a gently stimulating and detergent agent, iodine may be
used in cases of  chilblains which show dilated vessels in a
relaxed, scaly and bluish-red skin.
   IJ Trae. iodi,
        "  gallar.,.....aa 3 hiss.
   M.   S.  To be pencilled on chilblains.
   IJ Iodi,       .......3i.
      Collodii,.......3 hiss.
   M.   S.  Iodine collodion.   To be used like the preceding.
   IJ Tinct. iodi,.......3 iij.
      Liq. sodii chlor.,......§ i.
   M.   S.  Like the preceding. 
104
Cosmetics.
    IJ Iodi,........3 ss.
      Glycerini,.......i hiss.
    M.  S. Like the foregoing.

    For this purpose a combination of iodine and  tannin may
be used, or a tinctura iodi  decolorized by  sodii hyposulphis.
In  this tinctura  iodi decolorata, it is no longer the iodine,
but the hydrate of iodine, which is the active agent, but  this
has the same effect on the  skin as the former.  Cotton wool
dipped  in  liquor iodi compositus  may  also  be applied to
chilblains.  The deeper action of iodine  makes it useful  for
the destruction of pigment.  For the removal of freckles either
the tincture or a  concentrated solution may be applied until a
vesicle is formed, the surrounding skin being protected.   The
freckles disappear with the casting off of the old epidermis.
    IJ Iodinii,
      Potas. iodati,  ...        .    .    aa 3 i.
      Glycerin.,.......3 ij.
   M.  S. To be pencilled on the skin (Kaposi).

   This treatment is also of advantage in acne which  has
arisen from comedones.  A delicate, sensitive skin contra-
indicates the use  of iodine.  It is further to be  looked to that
after the energetic application of iodine dark diffuse pigment
spots do not remain.

             Sulphur and its Preparations.

   Sulphur is one of the most important agents in the therapy
of skin diseases, and especially in cosmetics.   Very little, how-
ever, is known of its action; this is only to  be  learned  by its
effects.  If powdered sulphur be brought in substance into
contact with  the  skin, it produces no effect; if it be energet-
ically rubbed in, alkaline sulphites are formed and it acts like
these.  That  such a process must occur is shown  by the fact
that after rubbing in pure sulphur salve, the odor of hydrogen
sulphide is  perceived.  The  fact that the sulphur has a more
intense  effect on  the skin when it  is applied combined with
alkalies, also speaks for the  action of  the  sulphur as an alka-
line sulphide.   In the other manners of its application in which
the sulphur is mixed with alcoholic or acid  fluids, these form 
Cosmetics.                      10
merely the vehicle, and its action in these mixtures depends
on the manner and the period of its application.  While the
alkaline  sulphides  formed have  in  general an action on the
epidermis similar to  that of the caustic  alkalies, since they
swell and dissolve the horny substance, this is not exactly the
case with the alkaline sulphides, which are first formed on the
skin.  These act much more mildly, although they have a cer-
tain action in contracting the vessels of the skin.  Because of
this action, sulphur is used  in all those cases in which  it is
wished to destroy the epidermis to a certain depth;  further,
in abnormal exfoliation of the  epidermis, in seborrhoea, and in
certain affections of the skin which are associated with dilata-
tion of the  capillaries and increased vascularity.  If a more
intense  action  be desired, either alkaline  sulphides or a mix-
ture of sulphur with alkalies would be used; if a  milder action
be wished, the  application of sulphur alone is often sufficient.
   For this purpose pure sulphur is used  in the  form of milk
of sulphur,  a fine, j^ellowish  amorphous powder, which is ob-
tained by precipitating a solution of calcii sulphis with acids.
In place of this, when a more extensive action is  desired, calcii
sulphidum  or  sodii  hydrosulphydras is used.   The latter is
used  in the form of  a solution.  Pure sulphur is used either
shaken in alcohol, or made into  a paste with acids, or mixed
with  alkaline fluids.
   The  manner of its application is as follows: Solutions of
alkaline  sulphides are used  as applications, and where a more
intense  action  is desired, rubbed in with a stiff  brush.   Sul-
phur pastes are rubbed into the  skin or spread  on cloths and
applied.   Mixtures which contain only  sulphur  as an active
agent are applied directly  to the skin after being  shaken;
those which contain  also  soaps or alkalies are either applied
in the same manner or only so that the precipitate from the
fluid  is applied to the skin.   The sulphur  should be left some
time  on the skin,  and the following day, perhaps, wiped  off
with  a cloth.   If alkaline sulphides or sulphur in conjunction
with  alkalies are used, there is generally a  slight  inflammation
or a hyperaemia of the skin produced, which  must be treated
with  indifferent salves, powders, and the like.  It goes without
saying that when sulphur is used, metallic sbustances are not
to be employed on  the skin at the same time, or dark-colored
sulphur combinations will be formed. 
106                      Cosmetics.
   As examples  of the methods of prescribing sulphur, the
following may serve:
   IJ Sulphuris loti,......i ss.
      01. amygd. dulc,......3 iij.
      Axung. benzoini,......i i.
   M.   S. Sulphur pomade (Dorvault29).

   IJ Sulphuris sublimati,.....3 ss.
      Glycerini,.......3 iij.
      Spir. camph.,.......3 i-
        "  lavand.,
      Aq. coloniens.,.....aa,  3 iij.
      Aq. destil.,.......i iv.
   M.   S. Shake  and pencil  on the skin  or add to the wash
water (Hager).

   There are a great  number of prescriptions for this justly
popular remedy;  those already given contain  but  little sul-
phur.  The following are more adapted for an energetic treat-
ment, because of the greater amount of sulphur contained and
on account of the addition of lime:

   IJ Sulphur, praecip.,.....3 hiss.
      Camphor.,.......gr. xvi.
      Mucil. g. arab.,......3 iss.
   Subige, admisce
      Aq. calcis,
      Aq. rosae,.......§ hiss.
   M.   S. Like the foregoing.30

   IJ Sulphur, praecip.,
      Glycerini,
      Spir. vini dil.,
      Potas.  carb.,
      ^theris,.......aa,  3 iij.
   M.   S. Cosmetic cream (Hebra).

   The thick mixture after being shaken is to be applied with
a brush  in  the evening and washed off with water or a solu-
tion  of sodii boras in the morning.
   This mixture is to be recommended for comedones, espe-
cially when the skin is very fatty,  and also in  seborrhoea  of
the face. 
Cosmetics.
107
   IJ  Sulph. praecip.,
      Glycerini,
      Spir. sapon. kalini,.....aa,  3 iij.
   M.  S. As above (Hebra).

   IJ  Sulph. praecip.,    .    .     .         .    .   3 i.
      Acid, acet.,    .    .    .    .    .     .    .   q. s.
   L7t f. pasta mollis.
   M.  S. Sulphur paste;  to be  used evenings on pigment
spots, ephelides, and chloasmata (Neumann).
   Sulphur may also be given in the form of sulphur  soap,
but it should be remembered that here its  action is most in-
tense in  consequence of the alkalinity of the soap.  Sulphur
may be  either added  to a manufactured  cocoa soap  or be
added in the process of manufacture;  if a more intense action
be desired, the  sulphur is to be replaced b}T calcii sulphidum;
and if a mechanical action be  desired also, sand or pumice-
stone may  be added, or the sulphur may  be combined with
other agents, such as iodine or naphthol.
   1>  Sapon. cocoini ree,.....3 hiss.
      01. citronellae,......gr. xvi.
      Sulphur, depur.,......3 iij.
   M. f. frust. pond.,......3 hiss.
   S.  Sulphur soap.-
   IJ  01. cocos,
      Sebi bovini,
      Liq.  sodii caust.,.....aa 3 iss.
      Hepat. sulph. lixiv. in aqua tep.  soluti,  .   3 ij.
   F. via frigida sapo.
      01. anisi,
      01. rosmarini,.....aa  3 i.
   M. f. frust. pond.,......3 hiss.
   S.  Sulphur soap (Auspitz);  to be  rubbed in with water,
evenings, the lather left on overnight and washed off in the
morning.   For ephelides.
   The simple  washing  with sulphur soap has scarcely any
other effect than washing with  any other soap; if the action
of the sulphur be desired, the soap must be rubbed with water
into the  skin, and the lather left on overnight.  The follow-
ing day it is to be washed off with water or with almond  bran, 
io8
Cosmetics.
and  the red macerated skin is to  be treated with various
agents, such as the solution of sodii boras in seborrhoea, un-
guentum zinci and powder in acne.  Much  more intense in
their action than mixtures of sulphur with alkalies and soaps
are the alkaline sulphides, in using  which the odor of hydro-
gen  sulphide is to be expected.   Calcii sulphis  (solutio Vle-
mingkx) acts as a caustic on the skin and, like sodii sulphydras
(1:10 water), is only to be used on the  back.

   IJ Sodii bor. pulv.,......3 i.
      Glj'cerini,.......3 ss.
      Sodii sulphid.,......3 iij.
      Aq. ros.,.......3 xvi.
   M.   S. To be used as a wash for blotches on the skin.


                     Metallic Salts.

   The metallic salts which have a  cosmetic use are salts of
aluminium, lead, zinc, bismuth, and mercury.   The physiologi-
cal action of all these, excepting the soluble salts of mercury,
is that of the  astringent agents in general.  Local superficial
inflammations and hyperaemia of the skin are cured by these;
they contract the capillary vessels which are passively dilated
by acne, perniones,  etc.  By contracting the vessels of the
skin they lessen the  secretion of  the glands, and principally
of the sweat glands.   Some  of these agents when used long
or in large  doses, even when they are  insoluble in water, by
their continuous irritation cause more  or less inflammation of
the  skin, and  may be followed by an increased exfoliation of
the epidermis, or a casting off of this down to the pigmentary
layer.   A number of these agents, when used  in the form of
powders and  salves, may have a  drying effect, while others,
because of their intense white color, may serve as concealing
agents.
   The salts of aluminium and lead belong  to the class of
light astringents.   Of the former, the well-known alum and
the aluminii acetas are used in solution for chilblains, redness
of the face and hands, and  local hyperidrosis.  For this pur-
pose the solutions are used  as a wash, or in continued appli-
cations.  Since the alum and especially the  aluminii acetas 
                         Cosmetics.                     109

lessen the secretion of sweat, they are adapted for the cases
with offensive  odor, and the  former is  used in the  form  of
powders, the latter in solution, for bromidrosis.  For this pur-
pose, aluminii .chloras, also  called chloralum, is much  used.
The deodorizing  action of  the latter is due in great measure
to the chlorine set free.  Used in the form of white clay for a
protecting application, the astringent properties of aluminium
do not come into action.
   The  soluble lead salts, especially plumbi acetas, may be
used in the same manner as the salts of aluminium.   They
also  have  an astringent action, cure hyperaemia of the skin,
and lessen the secretion of sweat.   Many preparations of lead
serve as drying and slowly acting caustic agents  for the re-
moval  of thickened and  calloused skin, especially with in-
grown nails, where the dusting on of plumbi  subnitras is of
service.   Other  preparations  of  lead  such as white  lead,
plumbi hydrocarbonas, are used as protecting  agents to the
skin, and they are also used in powders  for the same purpose
as the solutions.  Unguentum plumbi subcarbonatis and em-
plastrurn  plumbi subcarbonatis are useful  in  erythematous
chilblains.   An unusually important preparation of lead which
is adapted for use in most of  the cases considered here is the
unguentum diachylon  (Hebra), which ma3T be used not only in
the various forms of eczema, but also in hyperidrosis, and in
acne, as a mildly acting grease for the softening of indurated
portions of the skin in general, and for the removal of crusts
and  scales.  Besides the plumbi acetas and the plumbi sub-
carbonas, other preparations are occasionally used, as, for ex-
ample, plumbi  nitras  1, glycerinum 40, three times a dajT on
chapped hands.  While the lead salts  have the astringent
action of the metallic salts, they are seldom  used, even exter-
nally, on account of the possibility of a toxic effect being pro-
duced.
   Next to these in their action stand the combinations  of
zinc.  The soluble salts, such as  zinci sulphas, zinci acetas, and
zinci sulphocarbonas, are used in solution as applications for
chilblains, pigmentation of the skin, freckles, and chloasmata.
They may  also be used as local or general  baths  in hyperi-
drosis.   Even the insoluble zinci oxidum, when applied  for a
long time to the skin, has an astringent and drying action.
In a powdered form it  is very often added to  dusting powders, 
no
Cosmetics.
and in the form  of Wilson's salve is an excellent and  well-
known agent for the skin.
   Among the bismuth preparations, bismuthi subnitras has
but a feeble action on the skin.  Although a small quantity
of the salt may become dissolved in the secretion of the skin,
its action is chiefly mechanical, and, from its white color, con-
cealing.  The fact that after energetic application of bismuth
salves a slight dermatitis may ensue, would seem to indicate
a chemical action of this agent, though perhaps very slight.
The basic bismuthi nitras is used for the remoyal of freckles
and other forms  of  pigmentation of  the skin, and combined
with white precipitate in the form of a salve, it is a justly
popular  face pomade  for beautifying the complexion.   The
action of this latter depends no  doubt on the fact that the
superficial  layers of  the epidermis  are  more readily cast off
under its employment.
   Of the mercurial  preparations only two have an extensive
cosmetic use, the  hydrargyri chloridum and the hydrargyri
bichloridum  ammoniatum.   Sublimate,  which is soluble in
water, alcohol, and ether, when applied to the skin  in concen-
trated solution acts as a caustic and may cause a severe pur-
ulent inflammation  of the  skin.    When a  very dilute solu-
tion is applied for a long time, it causes a dermatitis also, but
this remains  superficial, although under  its use the epidermis
is raised in vesicles filled with serum.  It cannot be said that
the sublimate hastens the exfoliation of the epidermis scales,
but it always  causes a more or less  severe inflammation of
the skin, which leads at least to the detachment of  the super-
ficial  layers  of the epidermis.  Because of this action, subli-
mate has but a limited sphere of application.  It may be used
either as a caustic agent for warts, etc., or as a washing agent
in different varieties of pigmentation  of  the skin.  Its use for
the removal of  freckles has  already  been described.   On
account  of its exact  action on the skin,  sublimate has unfor-
tunately received great attention from  the vendors of beau-
tifying  agents, and  it is sold  as a panacea for all possible
disfigurements, such as acne, comedones, erythema, and any
efflorescence  of the skin. This  is the more to be deprecated
since  these readily soluble preparations of hydrargyrum may
be absorbed  by the  skin and cause poisoning, and  this may
also follow the careless use of hydrargyrum in  other  cases. 
Cosmetics.
in
Sublimate  and other  preparations  of  ^ydrargyrum  should
only be used for  cosmetic  purposes  under a physician's pre-
scription.
   The white precipitate, hydrargyrum bichloridum ammoni-
atum,  has  in reality the  same  action  as the sublimate, it
is, however, much slower and milder; when energeticlly ap-
plied to the skin, it is dissolved  by the  sweat.  The action of
this preparation is threefold.  First, it produces a superficial
dermatitis; second, it  has a mechanical action on account of
its powder form; and, third, it  serves  as a concealing agent
because of  its white color.   The  white precipitate is employed
in all those cases in which sublimate is used, when a slower
and a milder action is  desired, as in pigmentation of the skin,
obstinate acne, etc.  For the same purpose as the others, we
may employ with similar results other salts of hydrargyrum,
such as  hydrargyri  oxidum rubrum, oxidum  nigrum, acetas,
and the submurias.  The latter has none other than a mechan-
ical and concealing action.
    The gray plaster should be mentioned as a very important
agent, which in the  diseases that we are considering has no
mercurial  action, but merely that of the plasters, in shutting
off the air and preventing the evaporation of the moisture of
the skin, so that  the epidermis becomes swollen and is more
easily thrown off.  With this intention, emplastum hydrargyri
may be used on  callosities and  corns, and  for induration or
pigmentation of the skin.

    IJ Zinci sulph.,
      Acid, tannici,......aa 3 ss.
      Aq.  rosae,.......3 iij.
      Ungt. emoll.,.......§ i-
    M. ft. ung.  S. Salve to be rubbed on erythematous blotches
on the face and  on  chilblains,  to be left on  over  night and
dusted with zinc  powder in the morning,

    U Benzoin, pulv.,......gr- xvi.
      Axung. porci,......iL
   Digere, cola, adde
      Zinci oxid.,.......3 L
   M.  ft. ung.  S. Wilson's salve. 
I 12
Cosmetics.
   IJ Zinci sulphocarbol.,     .    .     •    •        3 ss.
      Glycerini,.......3 vi.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 L
      Spir. colon.,.......31.
   M.  S. Water for freckles.  To be painted on in the even-
ing and let dry; to be washed off in the morning with borax
water.

   IJ Boli alb.,
      01. lini,.......aa  3 i.
   M. exact., adde
      Zinci oxid.,
      Liq.  plumb, subacet.,   .    .     .        aa  3 vi.
      01. neroli,.......q.  s.
   Ad odor at.
   M. ft. pasta.   S.  To be painted thickly on the affected skin;
to be rubbed  off with zinc powder in the morning.

   IJ Tutiae,........3 ij.
      Ungt.  rosae,.......1 ss.
      Butyri e aq. ros. loti,.....i ss.
   M. ft.  ungt.   S. Pommade  de  Tuthie  (French  Pharm.,
Dorvault).

   IJ 01. amygd. dulc,.....3 ij.
      Spermaceti,......3 i-
      Cerae alb.,.......3 ij.
   Liquef.  admisce
      Zinci sulph.,......gr. xvi.
   in Aq. rosae,.......3 hj.
   Soluti.
   M.  exact, f. ungt.  S. For cracked  hands  and nipples
(Debay).
    IJ Alumin. cr.,.......3 i.
      Aq. dest.,.......§ hiss.
   M.  S.  Application for chilblains and red nose.

    IJ Alumin.,
      Sodii bor.,    .    .     .    .     .    .    aa  3  ss.
      Aq. rosae,.......3  v.
      Tinct.  benzoini,......;  i.
   M. S.  Like the foregoing. 
Cosmetics.
"3
		
Acet. arom.,	.	3 iiiss.
M. S. Like the foregoing.		
IJ Sodii bor.,	....	. = ss.
Alumin., .	.	. 3 hj.
Acid, tan.,		. 3 iij.
Amyli, .		• 3 ij.
01. aeth. cort.	aur., .	. gtt. XXV.
   M.   S. Sweat powder, also recommended  for  beginning
chilblains.
   IJ Alumin. acetico-tartar.,    .     .    .     .  ^ ij.
      Aq. destill.,.......3 iv.
   M.   S. To be painted undiluted on chilblains; three to
four tablespoonfuls to be added to cool foot-bath  for sweat-
ing of the feet.
   IJ Alumin.,  .    .     .    .   .    .   .    .   3 i.
      Vitell. ovi cocti unius,
      Glycerini,.......3 ss.
      ft. ungt.  S.  For chilblains (Husemann).
M.

5
3 hj.
aa 3 mss.
.   gr. xvi.
M.
      Alumin. usti,   ....
      Magnes. carb.,
      Pulv. irid. florent.,  .
      Pulv. caryophyll.,
       S. For filling muslin sachets to be worn in the axillae
in excessive sweating (Debay).
   IJ Liq. alumin. acet. (Burowi),    .     .    .   3 i.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 viij.
   M.  S. For applications and as a wash in hyperidrosis.
   IJ Bismuth, subnitr.,.....3 i-
      Zinci oxid.,.......3 i.
      Ungt. emoll.,......i iss.
      01. naphae,  .......  gtt. v.
   M. ft. ung.  S.  Salve for sunburned face and hands.
IJ Bismuth/subnitr.,   ....
   Tinct. benzoini,.....
   Glycerini,......
   Aq. fragor.,.....
M.   S. After shaking to be used for scaly skin.
      8
gr. xvi.
3i.
3vi.
^ iiiss. 
114
Cosmetics.
   Yp Bismuth, carbon, basici,   ....   3 nj.
      Talci veneti,.......3yi.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 nss.
      Spir. colon.,.......2HJ-
   M.  S. As before; if it is used as a cosmetic the moist pre-
cipitate is to be pencilled on.
IJ  Hydrarg. bichlor. corr.,
   Aq. ceras.,
   Spir. vini rect.,
   Plumbi acet.,  .
   Tinct. benzoini,
gr. l.
 1 xx.
 ii-
 iss.
gtt. XXX.
M.  S. Eau de Gerlain;  for painting on blotches.
   IJ Hydrarg. bichl. corr.,  .
      Emuls. amygd. amar.,.
      Tinct. benzoini,
   M.  S. Aqua orientalis (Hebra).
red,  scaly, but not inflamed skin.

   IJ Hydrarg. bichlor. corr.,   .
          •  gr. i.
          •   ixij.
          .   3 ss.
To be used  as a wash in
gr. xvi.- 3 i-
      Aq. naphae,
      Spir. vini rect.,  .    .     .         aa  3 iss.
   M.  S. To be used with  care as above, for the quick re-
moval of ephelides.

   IJ Hydrarg. bichlor. corr.,    .     .    .       3 ss.
      Collodii elastici,......i vi.
   M.  S. For destroying warts and corns.

   As the collodion covering presses the vesicle and causes
pain, it may be replaced by ether.   In the latter case, as in
the employment  of sublimate in  general, care must be taken
that the agent does not get into the mouth.
IJ Aq. colon., ....		ii-
Spir. ammon. comp.,		3 ss.
Potas. iod., ....		gr. xxiv
Sodii carb., ....		3 iiss.
Hydrarg. iod. rub., .		gr. x.
Aq. camphor., ....	ad	3 ivss.
M. S. As a wash for blotches.		
 
Cosmetics.
"5
    IJ Liq. hydrarg. nitr.  oxid.  (19$ Germ.
            Pharm.),......gr. xvi.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 vij.
    M.  S. Water for  freckles (Hager).  Single ephelides or
chloasmata to be touched every second or third day.

    IJ Hydrarg. praec. alb.,
      Bismuth, subnitr.,.....aa 3 i.
      Ungt. glycerini,......3 iv.
    M.  S. Salve  for freckles (Hebra).  To be rubbed in ener-
getically for  two  or three  consecutive days; then  to be
stopped.

    The reaction following  the use of  this mixture is consider-
able; the skin reddens and scales off in large patches.   In the
intervals, applications of a solution of  sodii boras or of Gou-
lard's water are to be  made, or the part anointed with a bland
salve.
    Milder and correspondingly slower in action is the follow-
ing face pomade:

    IJ Hydrarg. praec. alb.,
      Bismuth, subnitr.,  .... gr. xvi.- 3 ss.
      Ungt. pomadinum, .    .    .       3" ij.
    M.  S. Pomade which may be  rubbed in  every day for a
time, and is of service in sunburn.  Calomel  may be used in
the same manner as the white precipitate (Oppolzer).

    IJ Hydrarg. chlor. mitis,   .    .    .   .  gr. xvi.
      Bismuth, subnitr.,.....3 i.
      Aq. fragor.,......3 iss.
    M.  S. After  shaking, to be used  on liver spots and  ery-
thematous portions of the  skin.
    Of the metallic  salts should also be mentioned acidum ar-
seniosum, which possesses  the property, valuable  from  a cos-
metic point of view, of cauterizing abnormal  portions of the
skin, such as hypertrophy and granulations, without affecting
the sound portions.  In the form  of pulvis cosmi or of Hebra's
arsenic  salve  it is  extensively used in lupus.   According to
Unna, the acidum arseniosum  is a useful agent for the removal
of warts, and  is most  applicable in the form of a plaster of
the ordinary variety, or of gray plaster. 
u6
Cosmetics.
   IJ  Empl. hydrarg. cin., .     .    .    .   3 hj.
      Acid, arsen.,.....gr. iij.-viij.
   M. ft. emplastrurn.  S. Plaster.
   IJ  Oleini crudi,......3 iij.
      Plumbi oxid.,......   .   3 ss.
   Ft. empl. adde
      Arsen. albi.,......gr. xvi.
   S.  Plaster (Lang).

                Powders and Cosmetics.

   The numerous agents of this group are employed for two
different purposes, either as protecting and moisture-absorb-
ing agents  or as concealing  and coloring  agents.  For  the
former, vegetable substances are chiefly used;  for the latter,
mineral substances.
   Starch and  other Vegetable Powders.—When  the  fine
skin of the face and hands is exposed to the atmosphere after
being washed with soap or  with  simple water,  even when
thoroughly  dried, it becomes rough and  fissured.  Persons
endeavor to combat this by  using all sorts of creams  and
powders on the skin.  The powdering of the face after shaving
is for the purpose of  protecting from the influence of  the air
the skin which has been irritated by the soap, the razor,  and
the washing. The powders of this group are here serviceable.
   Starch is to be considered  the most important representa-
tive of these. Pure starch finely powdered and applied to the
skin makes  it smooth  and cool,  lessens the  irritation  and
pain of sensitive  superficially excoriated spots, and protects
them from  the influence of too high or too low temperatures,
and from the rubbing  of neighboring  portions of the skin.
All fine powders, and especially the vegetable ones,  absorb
fluids which have been poured on the skin.   Mixed with these
fluids or the sweat,  starch  forms  a thick, tenacious paste,
which becomes detached in the form of blackish masses.  At
the same time  a chemical change  occurs and the paste be-
comes sour from the formation of acidum lacticum.
   Other vegetable, indifferent or fragrant, powders are added
in  considerable quantities to starch, to form face powders.
What was said  of starch applies also to these. Mixed with
the sweat, they decompose, forming products of acid reaction 
Cosmetics.
117
and odor, and since their woody parts swell in the fluid of the
sweat, they cause what they should prevent, the maceration
of contiguous portions of the skin.  The swollen and adhering
masses of such powders, and of starch as well, irritate the skin
on which they lie like a foreign body, and  by  the  pressure
which they exert, favor the formation of callosities and corns.
I have seen  from the employment of orris powder, used as
a perfume in powders for sweating of the feet, enormous loos-
ening of  the epidermis between the toes, with great pain, and
even erosions and ulcerations.   The use of orris powder should
be condemned on this account, although for other purposes it
is harmless.  It  is  added to  washing powders, in order to
make  them  finer and more pleasing in appearance and in
odor.  On account of their containing albumin and starch,
these powders are mild and cleansing like the almond powder,
while many of them are excellent since they contain a little
fat.   In  the form  of soft  pastes they have, like the fatty
agents, a soothing and cleansing  action.
   The most important of these is rice starch, amylum oryzae,
poudre de riz.  It is a  fine,  smooth-feeling  powder  of pure
white color, lighter than water, and mixed with  this it forms,
like the other starches, a sticky mass or paste.
   But very little of the powder which is sold as rice starch
is in  reality such.  It is adulterated with  other starches, or
mixed with talc, chalk, etc., to make  it whiter and more con-
cealing, as will be shown later in treating of cosmetics. Rice
powder is but seldom used; in place of it other powders are
employed, although a moderate amount of rice powder forms
an excellent protecting  agent.  When society ladies appear
to-day with bare necks and arms, these parts are not encom-
passed in a cloud of powder, but covered with a heavy coat.
   Wheat starch, amylum tritici, may be used in place of rice
powder.   It is a very fine, smooth, bluish-white powder. This
bluish-white  color is not suited for all complexions.
   Potato starch, amylum solani, is a coarse yellowish-white
powder, shining in the light, which cannot well  be used pure
for cosmetic  purposes.
   Wheat powder  is occasionally used in place of starch in
the composition of washing powders  and pastes prepared ex-
tempore.  The powder for this purpose must be pure, white,
and of good quality.  The powder of vegetables such as beans 
nS
Cosmetics.
may be used in face powders, washing powders, and pastes in
the same manner as wheat starch.  Wheat bran, which con-
tains fat, and  the  powder of  marsh-mallow root, which is
mucilaginous and softens the skin, may be used in washing
powders  and pastes.  Instead of a paste made of meal or
bran, the popular poultices of white bread and milk may be
used, which, like the bean  meal, have  long been used by the
laity.
                        "... multo
                     Pane tumet facies,"
says Juvenal.   Orris-root powder is used only  for perfuming.
The following will serve as examples:

    IJ Amyl. oryzae,.....
      Pulv. ir. fl.,......
      01. geranii,......
   M. S. Rice powder.
    IJ Farin. legum.  (fabar.),
         "  oryzae,.....
         "  amygd. am.,   ....
      01. aeth. lavandul.,   ....
   M. S. Washing powder for the hands.

    IJ Farin. trit.,
      Pulv. melilot.,.....aa 3 viij.
      Pulv. violar.,......i iiss.
   M. S. To be mixed  with rose water into  a paste, with
which the  face is to be  covered for the night.  " This paste
lends the skin a freshness, and removes red blotches and pim-
ples" (Debay).

    IJ Pulv. althaeae subt.,
      Farin. amygd. am.,  .
      Essent. portug.,
             bergam.,
   M. S. Face paste.

    Cosmetics (concealing and  coloring agents).—If the skin
of the visible portions of the body be completely  clean, if it
have neither red nor other colored blotches, if it be neither too
oily nor  too dry, it  is to  be considered normal.   It may be
white, or red, or yellow,  providing that the color be not* too
.   i hiss.

.  gtt. v.
aa 3 iiiss.
•   ! vij.
.   3ij.
aa 3 mss.

aa gr. xvi. 
Cosmetics.
119
intense, and still satisfy the average man.  But this does not
satisfy  artistic  taste or fashion.  Artificial lighting,  the in-
tense yellow and yellowish-red light of hundreds of gas flames
or incandescent lamps, the glaring white or bluish-white light
of the arc lamps, make the normal skin appear of tints which
are by no means pleasing.   Time and pleasure as well as grief
and sorrow not only engrave deep  wrinkles in the face  and
neck, but destroy the color of youth and cause the skin to wilt
like a flower deprived of water.  Fashion, the ruler of all times
and peoples, demands to-day a blooming, youthful countenance
with  rosy cheeks, to-morrow a pale, sentimental, spirituelle,
almost sickly beauty—the morbidezza.
    The desire to be conspicuous causes a woman to choose to-
day the complexion of a robust peasant, to-morrow the bronze
color of an Ethiopian, and another time the sallow yellow of
the southern races.
    For this purpose cosmetics are used, which have  the func-
tion of giving to the exposed  parts of the body another color
than that which nature has provided, generally a more youth-
ful one; occasionally, as with  actresses, they serve for chang-
ing the expression of the face, and for concealing defects of
every sort.  Since it is the purpose of the cosmetic to deceive
the beholder, the first requirement of such an agent is that
this deception  be the most complete possible—i.e., that  the
color be the most natural  possible, a  requirement  which is
fulfilled not only by the selection of a proper agent, but much
more by the skill of its  application.   Even when the most
innocent materials are used in the preparation of these paints,
they are the most injurious of cosmetics.
   The simplest cosmetic agent is the white powder called  by
the collective  name poudre de riz,  which, as before stated,
seldom  consists of rice powder, but oftener contains talc or
even  chalk.  On account of  its finely-powdered form  it  ab-
sorbs the moisture of the skin and is called, therefore, an ab-
sorbent powder. Even these cosmetics, which when occasionally
used are harmless, when continually used  may injure the skin
so severely as  to preclude  the possibility of its restoration.
The complexion loses its natural gloss and freshness; the skin
appears dry and rough; the orifices of the sebaceous and sweat
glands are clogged by the cosmetics which have taken up  the
atmospheric dirt; countless comedones are formed, and in time 
120
Cosmetics.
these  become pustules which can no longer be concealed  by
these  light cosmetics, and more  dangerous agents  are  em-
ployed for this purpose.   The  moister and  more  oily the
skin—and it is individuals  with such skins who in their ignor-
ance use absorbent powders—the more harmful is their action.
   If  the cosmetics are made from metallic salts, the changes
which the skin suffers are  still more considerable.  The salts
are soluble, in a measure  at least, in the  sweat, and by con-
stant  use  these solutions,  little  active in themselves, become
drying and astringent agents.   To the symptoms described
may be added the  cracking of the skin and an extreme sensi-
tiveness to atmospheric influences.  Wrinkles, usually a symp-
tom of age, appear in the  skin, and those already existing be-
come  deeper; the  skin becomes  stiff and  inelastic,  and  the
muscles of the face lose their mobility;  the expression of the
face comes to be sad, suffering, and dark.  The dazzling white
lead which the perfumers add to their cosmetics is in reality
dangerous.  It is well known that when energetically rubbed
in, lead may  be absorbed by the unbroken skin from these
preparations; and the chronic poisonings, with nervous symp-
toms, chiefly  caused  by the cosmetic use of this metal, have
been made public often enough.   This poisoning is not caused
by the absorption  into the skin alone, but from the presence
of these cosmetics  in  the mouth  and stomach.
   In  spite of the danger incurred, cosmetics, and especially
toilet  powders, are always to be found on  the  toilet-tables of
our women and young girls, and the habit of using powder is
indulged  in from early childhood.  Used in the beginning only
as an agent for absorbing moisture, as a simple rice powder,
it becomes more indispensable  as a cosmetic,  a beautifying
agent, combined with various substances, as in the poudre de
riz decorative.  It is, however, not to be wondered at that  the
women of our time  are not more rigorous than their ances-
tors;  this cosmetic agent, as well as many others, having been
used thousands of  years ago by  the ancient Egyptians.
   The colors of these paints vary according to the purpose
for which they are to be used;  they are white, red, blue, and
of other colors.  They are further divided, as to  form,  into
paint  powders, grease paints—i.e., salves and cerates—and fluid
colors.  The  most simple classification is  according to their
color. 
Cosmetics.
121
   1. White  cosmetics.  Talc, calcii carbonas  and sulphas,
and magnesii carbonas, serve as a base for face powders and
white cosmetics.  The two first mentioned are those most fre-
quently used; in fact, talc may be said to be the general base
of all the cosmetics.
   Talc, magnesii silicas, is an oily-feeling, white, crystalline
mineral, which is prepared in various ways for  different pur-
poses.
   It is finely powdered, cleaned by pressing through  a fine
cloth and washed, then dried and ground up;  or the powder
is macerated with vinegar, then washed with water and dried.
Talc powder prepared in this way has a gloss; to prevent this
it is heated (calcined talc). In the  same manner as the talc
well-cleaned  lapis baptistae or alumen plumosum may be used.
The finest talc is called A^enetian chalk.   Craie de Briacon, or
Spanish chalk, is  the same.  The  fine purified and cleansed
talc is called blanc francais, French white.
   Chalk, calcii'carbonas, the well-known white earthy min-
eral, is prepared in the same manner (creta elutriata); the
natural chalk produces a powder which is less white than that
obtained by the precipitation of calcii chloridum with sodii
carbonas.
   Magnesii carbonas is a fine white powder obtained by pre-
cipitating magnesii chloridum with sodii carbonas and treat-
ing it  like the foregoing.
   Acidum silicicum was recommended some years ago as a
base in place  of  those commonly employed.  An aqueous
solution of sodii silicas  is precipitated with acidum sulphuri-
cum or hydrochloricum.   In this way a jelly-like acidum sili-
cicum is obtained, which is washed  with water after from ten
to twenty filterings. In this gelatinous form the acidum sili-
cicum may be used  in soaps  and pastes; and dried and finely
pulverized, it may be used for toilet purposes and white cos-
metics.
    The agents named form merely  the base of the white cos-
metics; since, however, they conceal too slightly the natural
color of the skin and pigmentation, other strongly white color-
ing matters are added.  As such  should be mentioned zinci
oxidum, which is obtained by heating zinc, or by precipitating
zinci sulphas with sodii carbonas and heating this.   The first-
named product is  the  zinc white, flores zinci, of  the  shops. 
122
Cosmetics.
 Zinci oxidum is a fine, white, loose powder, insoluble in water,
 but soluble in acids.  It should only be used after having been
 carefully cleaned.   An excellent preparation is sold under the
 name of zinc white.
    Bismuthi subnitras, bismuth  white, is  a very white, fine,
 crystalline powder obtained by dissolving bismuth in acidum
 nitricum and  precipitating  with water.  It is insoluble in
 water and is  of acid reaction.  The magisterium bismuthi
 prepared according to the German and Austrian Pharma-
 copoeias does not contain arsenic; in the market many prepa-
 rations are found containing arsenic, and they are of variable
 composition.  They are called Spanish white, pearl white,
 blanc de perles. Under the same name and for the same pur-
 pose other salts of bismuth are used, such as bismuthi chloras,
 acetas, and carbonas.
    Barii sulphas, permanent white, blanc fixe, is obtained  by
 the decomposition of barii chloridum with sodii sulphas, and
 is found  in the market combined with water in the form of a
 paste, since it  loses in fineness and concealing power by be-
 coming dry; barii carbonas is also used in cosmetics.
    Plumbi carbonas, cerussa, ceruse, is made in various ways.
 The white  leads of different manufacturers have a different
 concealing power.  Usually it consists of sixty-six per cent of
 plumbi carbonas.  It is glaring white, insoluble in water, and
 soluble in many acids, among these acidum nitricum and ace-
 ticum, and in  dilute potash-lye.  The finest  sort  is called
 Kremser white; pearl white is white  lead made slightly blue
 with indigo.  Other salts of lead, such as plumbi chloridum,
 are used, but are less white and concealing.
   Of the  preparations named, talc  powder  is the simplest
 and most innocent.   It is insoluble, is affected neither by the
 skin secretion nor by the atmospheric moisture, does not stick
 together, and  has  a pure white  color which  is not changed
 under the influence of chemical agents.  It acts on the skin
 only as dust;  its disadvantage is its weak color and slight
 concealing  power.   Magnesii carbonas and  chalk are also in-
 nocent; the latter, long used for this purpose, colors strongly
 and conceals well.   The white produced by this agent is dull
 and earthy.  Of the metallic agents, white lead is the strong-
est, finest, and best concealing white.   As said above, however,
it  is so poisonous that it  cannot be employed in cosmetics 
Cosmetics.
123
even for occasional use.  Although the sale of cosmetics con-
taining lead is forbidden in Germany and Austria, new cos-
metics containing lead are continually being sold under at-
tractive names.  But apart from the  poisonous properties of
lead preparations, their habitual use should not be permitted,
since the}' often color the skin black by forming a plumbi sul-
phidum with the free hydrogen sulphides of the air or with the
sulphur combinations  secreted  by the horny tissue in many
individuals.  Women who use cosmetics containing lead are
often surprised, after taking sulphur baths, to see their faces
turn gray or black.  Barium white is almost equal in color
and concealing power to white lead; it is innocent, and is not
changed by hydrogen sulphide.  Bismuth white, which is com-
monly supposed to be innocent, has not so strong a  color nor
so  great a concealing  power.  The preparations containing
arsenic are of course poisonous.  The soluble bismuth com-
pounds, such  as the acetate, because of  their caustic or at
least strongly astringent action, are injurious impurities of
the bismuth white. It should be mentioned that  pure  bis-
muthi subnitras concentrated in salve form and rubbed ener-
getically into the skin may  cause irritation and superficial
dermatitis with unsightly scaling of the skin, an ^effect which
may be employed for the removal of ephelides, as we have seen
before. It would seem that this action depends on the solu-
bility  of the preparation in  the secretions of the  skin, the
slightly caustic action of the solution being increased by the
mechanical irritation of rubbing.  In this  manner may be ex-
plained the harmfulness of the continued  application of zinci
oxidum, the most frequently used coloring and concealing
agent, and one comparatively uninjurious.
    The base of the cosmetic is, as a rule, talc when a good
concealing or coloring cosmetic is wished.  In toilet powders
for every-day use, for keeping the skin dry and protecting the
complexion, since the talc powder betrays its presence, a quan-
tity of some starch is added to it.   In most cases the  best
composition for a concealing powder is zinci oxidum 6, talc 10,
and magnesii carbonas 1; a stronger  white is talc 5, zinci oxi-
dum 8; much smaller quantities of bismuth  or  barium salts
are sufficient.  For toilet powder the composition  should be
amylum 2 and mineral substances (not metalic salts) 3.
    In  the  selection of the agent, attention  is given to the 
124
Cosmetics.
degree of adherence  to the skin; in a toilet powder adherence
is not a desirable quality, the powder should brush off lightly
from the skin; in coloring powders, a considerable degree of
adherence is desirable.
   Zinci oxidum and gypsum, which adhere strongly, should
be added to toilet powders in but small quantities;  talc and
magnesia do not adhere well.  Often, when the skin is very
dry, even the best adhering agents, such as zinci oxidum and
barii carbonas, are not sufficient; in such cases a small amount
of grease, such as spermaceti, or cocoa butter in  the winter-
time, ma}' be added, forming a grease powder.
   Finally, a word should be said of the color of the white cos-
metics.  Very white powders or cosmetics disfigure  the skin;
parts of the skin normally delicate rose or chamois colored
appear  as if coated with flour  (clown face);  darker col-
ored parts appear bluish-white  from the color of  the skin
showing through.  In order to prevent the second, a trace of
indigo is added to very white powders;  in the first  case, the
powder is colored slightly with carmine or with carmine and
ochre.
   2. Red cosmetics.  The  red  cosmetics have as a base the
simplest of white cosmetics, talc powder, which may have
zinci oxidum added to it, in order to lessen a  too lively red.
Of the numerous coloring matters, carmine is most extensively
employed.
   This is the red coloring  matter of cochineal, coccionella
(the female of the coccus cacti, dried), which consists  chiefly of
carmine acid with small quantities of alumina and lime.
   To obtain carmine, cochineal is boiled in ten parts of rain-
water, heated again several times after the addition of alumen,
and left standing exposed to  the air  in shallow vessels, in
which manner the best sort of  carmine is gotten.  After an-
other method cochineal is boiled in seventy-five parts of water,
and then potassii nitricum, and later potassii oxalas, is  added,
the mixture is again boiled, and  the further steps in the process
are as in the preceding method.   Since the carmine acid, like
alumina, forms  colored  compounds with the metallic oxides,
carmine may also be obtained  by adding these.  Alkaline
water may be used to make an extract of the cochineal, possi-
bly with the addition of acidum  citricum.  The carmine re-
maining in the cochineal decoction after the precipitation with 
                         Cosmetics.                      125

alumen may be got by boiling with  albumen and is an espe-
cially fine carmine for cosmetics (Debay).  The action of sun-
light is supposed to increase the beauty of carmine.
   Carmine is odorless, insoluble in water, soluble in ammonia,
and is injured by soaps and alkaline  fluids.  A solution of car-
mine in five or six parts of ammonia is the so-called fluid car-
mine.  Carefully heated  in small  quantities, carmine may be
obtained as a dark purple-red or violet powder.  In thin layers
dry carmine gives a fine green reflex.
   Much older and more extensively used as a cosmetic agent
is saffron.  This is the flower of the carthamus tinctorius, which,
besides a yellow pigment soluble in water, has a reel pigment
carthamine or saffron red, soluble  in alcohol.
   The latter is used  in place  of saffron, and is obtained from
this by extracting with soda  solution and precipitating with
acidum aceticum, perhaps purified by being dissolved a second
time in soda, and precipitated with  acidum citricum; it is a
brownish-red powder  having a greenish reflex.
   Carthamine seems to have been employed in the most an-
ient  times; at anjT rate, the  word karthami appears in  the
Hebrew.  In the renaissance and  baroque periods, Spanish or
Portuguese red was the most important red cosmetic agent.
Carthamine is also called rouge or rose  vegetal.
   Less red cosmetic  paints are produced from Pernambuco
wood.
   The extracts of Pernambuco, red Brazil  wood, and caesal-
pinia contain the chromogen brasilin, of a carmine color and
soluble in  alkalies,  which  with  metallic salts  forms a lake.
Pernambuco lake is generally dissolved in water and precipi-
tated with acidum citricum.
   Alloxan is less frequently used.  It is a product of the oxi-
dation of uric acid, in the  form of colorless rhomboidal crj's-
tals, soluble in water and giving to the skin a purple-red color
and an unpleasant odor.   Alloxan has  a more intense color
than the other agents mentioned.
   In later times, red cosmetics have been  made from eosin.
It is  probable, however,  that eosin itself (tetrabromide  of
fluorescin)  is not often  used, but its compounds Avith potas-
sium and barium, which are in the form of crystals dissolving
in water and alcohol with a play of colors, red and gold-green.
Cosmetics prepared with this coloring matter, as well as those 
126
Cosmetics.
prepared with cinnabar, have a peculiar rose color with a trace
of yellow, and  therefore are not used like the  ordinary red
cosmetics.   I believe that these are adapted for use under the
light of an electric arc lamp.
   Cinnabar, hydrargyri sulphidum, is yet to be mentioned, a
color valued in painting for its fire, but because of its yellow-
ish tone it is scarcely adapted for imitating the natural red of
the skin even when mixed with considerable white.   It is used,
nevertheless, as  a cosmetic color; it is entirely insoluble  in
water and is poisonous.
   3. Besides the red and white  cosmetics there are those of
other colors and of minor importance.
   All have as a base the simple white cosmetics.
   Blue is  gotten by indigo, which is soluble in water, or by
Berlin blue, which is  insoluble in water.
   Brown and  yellow cosmetics are made by  adding ochre,
umber,  burnt sienna, or Armenian  bole.  Umber, the well-
known mineral color used in painting, is in reality ferri silicas
with manganese and some aluminium.  The best sort is the
Turkish, which comes from Cyprus.  Ochre is a natural ferri
oxyhydras mixed with clay and lime.  The others have very
much the same composition, lacking, however, the manganese
and having more  clay.  The chestnut-brown terra di Sienna
comes from Tuscany; the finest sort of red bole, the Armenian,
has often  a trace of yellow.  Other colors, such as minium
and chrome yellow, are used only as stage cosmetics.  Lamp-
black and boneblack  are used in salve form without the addi-
tion of white cosmetics.
   In order to color  cosmetics with soluble colors, these are
dissolved in alcohol or water and thoroughly rubbed up with
a little of the cosmetic; then more of the cosmetic is added
gradually and mixed until the whole is colored  and dry.  In-
soluble colors, which must be finely pulverized, are also rubbed
up gradually with the white cosmetic.  In order to get a pow^
der as fine  as possible, the color  is moistened with alcohol or
water during the rubbing; after it is entirely dry it is again
rubbed  up  and pressed through sieves  and fine cloths.   For
perfuming, essences  and extracts are used, which are also
rubbed into the powder. 
Cosmetics.
127
3 xvi.
3 xvi.
gtt. iij.
gtt. i.
                      Toilet  Powders.
   IJ Amyl. pulv.,  .    .     .    .         .   § viij.
      Lapid. baptist.,
      Talci veneti,
      Alum, plumosi.,   .     .    .     .    aa 3 iv.
      01. rosae,.......gtt. xxv
      01. neroli,.......gtt. xij.
   M.  S. Pulvis cosmeticus albus cum amylo.
   IJ Amyl. oryzae,......| xvi.
      Bism. subnitr.,......= hiss,
   M.  S. Face powder (Piesse).
   IJ Amyl. pistaciae, .
      Talci veneti,
      Ess. rosae, .
       "   lavandul.,  .
   M.  S. Poudre de toilette a la pistache (Piesse).
   As with perfumes, cosmetics are often given names which
have no connection with the principal ingredients of the cos-
metic. Snow,31 who analyzed a number of face powders, says of
pistachio powder:  " It is made of fine talc which is colored
slightly  lavender, well perfumed,  put  in elegant  sachets,
marked with a French label, and sold at an exorbitant price."
   IJ Talci veneti alcohol.,.....§ iss.
      Zinci oxidati,......§ iiss.
   F. e pauxillo indigo et essent. odor. pulv. cosmet.
   S. White powder.
   IJ Zinci oxidati,.....
      Talci veneti,.....
      Magnes. carb.,    ....
      01. millefleurs,    ....
   M.  S. Pulvis cosmeticus albus.
   IJ Pulv. cosmetici albi,....
      Carmini soluti,.....
   M.  S.  Rose powder (pulv. cosm. rubr.).
   IJ Pulv. cosmetici albi, ....
      Carmini sol.,.....
      Ochre,     ......
   M.  S. Powder (Rachel).
3 vi]	•
3x1.	
ii-	
gtt.	xxv
i xviss	
gr.	viij
1 iiss.	
gr.	i.
gr.	xvi
 
128
Cosmetics.
   These and the preceding  powders cannot be called color
cosmetics;  they are really only slightly-colored white cosmetic
powders.  Even the following powders  cannot be considered
color cosmetics.  I have used them on brunettes, where they
looked as white as the skin of the hands; in very pale persons,
however, they appear brown:
   IJ Pulv. cosmetici albi,
      Pulv. cosmetici rubri,  .    .     .    .   aa,  i i.
      Ochre,........3 iss.
   M.   S. Powder (Rachel—dark).
   Other white powders are as follows:
  IJ  Talc, venet. alcoh.,.....
      Bismuth, oxid.,
      Zinci oxid.,......aa
   M.   S. Poudre de  perle (Piesse).
   IJ Siliciae subt.,......
      Tal. ven. alcoh.,......
        S. Blanc nouveau (Debay).
      Bismuth, subnitr.,     ....
      Cretae gallic, (talci),   ....
      Amyl. tritici,.....
      Terrae albae (gypsi),   ....
        S. Swan's down (Snow).
      Bismuth, subcarb.,
      Zinci oxid.,  .
      Tale venet.,
      Cretae praecip.,
      Amyl. tritici,
   M.   S. Saunders' Bloom of Ninon (Snow).
   IJ Zinci oxid.,......
      Talc, venet. ale,.....
   Aquae  sapon. modice gummos. q. s. f. pasta ex qua form.
trochisci.
   S. White in tablets (Debay).
   IJ Cretae praecip.,
      Talc, veneti, .
   F. e s. qu. aquae tabulae.
   S. Lily white tablets (Snow).
M.
U



M.
U
xviss.
3 iss.
 3 ss.
 3 iss.
 iij-
 iiij-

3vi.
iij-
3 iiss.
3 iiss.
3 hiss.
3 1]-
3vi.
3 ISS.
iij- 
Cosmetics.
129
IJ Barii sulph.,..... Zinci oxid., . Talc, venet., ....	. 3 v.
M. S. Barium white (Blanc de cygne-	-Debay).
Red Cosmetics.	
IJ Carmini opt.,..... Talci ven. alcohol., .... M. S. Simple red powder.	gr. xvi.- 3 ss. 3 ij-- 3 iij-
IJ Carmini opt,, .... Talci venet. alcoh., . .	• 3 ij. . i iv.-v.
Solut. gummi. trag., . 01. amygd. dulc,	. gtt x.-xxv. 3 iss.—iij.
   M.  D. in oil.  S. Rouge en pot.
   Similar to the toilet powders are the cosmetics in the form
of paste or tablets, and those which are found in the market
in the form  of impregnated cotton wool or crepe.  To make
the first sort, the finely-powdered cosmetic is mixed with gum
tragacanth and a little oil  or water to form a paste, and then
dried in a fitting shape b}^  gentle heat.  Colored cosmetics of
this sort are made from strongby-colored talc powder.
   Such paste  preparations  are carmine, rouge en pate; a
paste colored with carthamine and put into little cups, rouge
en tasses; and  brasilin mixed with talc and put in little pots,
rouge en  pot.  Red impregnated cotton is called Spanish cos-
metic wool, laine d'Espagne;  crepe prepared in a similar way
is called crepons.  Carmine may be spread  on cardboard and
in this  form is called rouge in feuilles, rouge de Chine.
   For preparing fluid cosmetics the insoluble white mineral
powders  are suspended  in perfumed water;  in order to make
the suspension  more  permanent, alcoholic resinous solutions,
such as tinctura benzoini, or solutions of ethereal oils, such as
aqua coloniensis, are added.  Active skin agents such as sodii
boras are often added, but to no purpose.  Carmine is  dis-
solved  in aqua ammoniae and perfumed for the most part with
rose.
                 Fluid White Cosmetics.
   IJ Bismuth, subnitr.,.....3 iiiss.
      Aq. rosae,   .    .    . *        .    .       i x.
   M.  S. Blanc de perles liquid.
          9 
130                       Cosmetics.

   IJ Zinci oxid.,.......? iiiss-
      Talci veneti,......3 vi.
      Aq. coloniens,
      Aq. rosae,......aa | v.
   M.   S. Blanc de neige.

   IJ Talc, praepar.,......3 hiss.
      Glycerini,.......3 hj.
      Sodii bor.,.......gr. viij.
      Aq. colon.,......3 hiss.
      Aq. destil.,......i iiiss.
   M.   S. Oriental  cream.

   IJ Cale carb. praep.,.....i ss.
      Bismuth, oxychlor.,.....3 ij.
      Rad. ir. flor.,......3ij-
      Glycerini,.......i i.
      Aq. destil.,.......i iiss.
   M.   S. Liquid pearl (Snow).

                    Fluid Red Cosmetics.
    5 Potassii oxalati,     .....  gr. viij.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 viij>
      Spir. vini rect.,......3 ss.
      Carmini opt.,......gr. viij.
      Amm. p. liq.,......gr. iv.
    S. Rose liquide  (Debay).

    IJ Carmini opt.,.......3 i.
      Amm. p. liq.,......3 i.
      Aq. destil.,.....q. s. ad  i iss.
   M.  S. Fluid red.  This solution, given by Martindale, may
 be added to  cosmetics, or one  teaspoonful to a tablespoonful
 added to one-half pint of water makes a very good red cos-
 metic.

    IJ Zinci oxid.,
       Cale praep.,......aa, i ss.
       Ol. bergam.,......gtt ij.
       Carmini,.......gr. iij.
       Aq. destil.,.......3 iv.
    M.   S. Fluid red. 
Cosmetics.                     13J
   In preparing grease cosmetics, the finest powder is used as
in the preparation of the others;  the  salves used must  be
made from the purest fats.   Since the  grease cosmetics are
chiefly rather  hard pomades, tallow or wax is the best base.
The grease cosmetics are either put in little pots, the historic
rouge en pot,  petit pot, or rolled into  sticks.  Fat powders
have already been described.
              White Grease Cosmetics.
IJ Pulv. cosmet. alb., s. rub., s. Rachel, .
   Spermaceti,......
M. exactissime.   S.  Fat powder.
IJ Bismuth, subnitr.,   ....
   Talc, praep.,.....
   01. bergam.,    .....
   Ung. cerei,.....
M.  S.  Pomade  for whitening the skin.
IJ Talci ven. alcohol,
   Zinci oxdi subt.,
   Spermaceti,
   01. amygd. dulc,
M. ft. pasta.  S. White cosmetic.
IJ Bismuth, subchlor.,
   Barii sulph. praec,
   Cerae alb. liquef., .
   01. amygd. dulc,
M.  S. White theatrical cosmetic.
iss.
3i.
 3nj.
 3 iss.
 gr. xvi.
 3i.

 3 iiss.
 gr. xvi.
 3 iij.
 3vi.


■   3 iij.
   3 vi.
   3 iss.
.   3 SS.
Red Grease Cosmetics,
IJ Carthamini,
   Talc. ven. alcoh.,
   Spermaceti,
   01. amygd. dulc,
M.  S. Red cosmetic (James).
IJ Eosin,.....
   Cerae alb.,.      ...
   Spermaceti,
   Saxolini,
M.  S. Rosalinde (Mrs. Pray).
gr. xvi.
3 iiss.
3 hj.
3vi.

gr. xvi.
3ij.
3ij-
3 iss. 
132
Cosmetics.
   IJ  Alloxani,.......gr. viij.
      Cold cream,.......i ij-
   M.  S. Schnouda,

   As to the method of the application of cosmetics, every one
is guided by his own experience.   In general, the choice of the
cosmetic and the manner of its application must depend on
the part to which it  is to be applied and  on the purpose for
which it is worn—i.e., whether it must serve for the house, for
subdued daylight; or for the street, for full daylight; or for
the stage, for artificial light; and whether the person is to be
seen at a distance or near by.   As a rule, dry cosmetics are
used; these are serviceable for  daylight  as well as artificial
light, especially when white and red  are  to be used.  For
this purpose the face is first greased  with one of  the  solid
pomades, such as paraffin, cold  cream, or glycerin.   No part
of the face may be omitted and special attention is to be given
to the entrance of the nose, the  eyelids, and both surfaces of
the auricle; the superfluous  grease should be removed with a
soft cambric cloth.  White powder is then dusted on, and the
superfluous amount also wiped off with a cloth.  Next a more
or less saturated red is put on near the mouth and  nose and
rubbed  toward the ear.  Since  rosy ears are admired, these
also must be covered.  The cosmetic when applied must be
exactly as desired; corrections are not often successful.  If it
be not altogether right, it is better to remove it and begin
anew.  For laying on the white  powder, a hare's foot  is  used
or a bit  of down from the  skin of a swan or  goose; for the
actual cosmetics a tampon  is preferred, made of white plush
or a very soft  thin  cambric.  For artificial light and when
the face is pale only red  is used, a red grease cosmetic being
applied to the previously oiled skin.  For this purpose a cloth
is used, or simply the fingers.  The red  cosmetic is best made
by rubbing up fine carmine and glycerin with the finger.  This
is then applied to the cheek  and  spread out with a soft cloth;
with some experience this is very successful.  Blondes should
not use too much red.   Moist  cosmetics  are  applied with  a
soft camel's-hair pencil, left until dry, and the excess then wiped
off with a cloth.   Experienced persons never use these on the
face—at the most on the arms and neck, since the white  that
they give is too intense and  makes the complexion sallow and 
Cosmetics.
133
yellow under artificial light.  Of all the cosmetics, the most
harmful are the moist ones, since they are more sure to cause
comedones; for this reason they should not be used on the
face.
   As a rule, this broad use  of the cosmetic is not enough;
detail must be added later.   The nostrils are made  red with
grease cosmetic, the internal canthus of the  eye is  reddened,
and the palpebral  fissure is lengthened  by a black stripe out-
ward from the external canthus.  A similar stripe is  drawn
on the hairy border of the lower lid, to make the eye brilliant
and  conspicuous.  In order to give the face a certain je ne
sais qua of revery or wantonness, a weak, black shadow is laid
on the lower lid corresponding to the orbital margin, and this
makes the eye seem deeper and  more languishing.  All these
little deceptions are necessary for the appearance on the stage,83
but often enough they are made use of in the common comedy
of our daily life, and when not artistically applied, they appear
like flecks of powder when seen  in the house or on the  street,
and  like hollows in the cheeks when seen on the stage.  The
eyebrows and  the lips must also be spoken of.  The former,
when too short or  thin or light, are lengthened and darkened
with  brown or black (lampblack)  grease cosmetic applied
with a soft brush.   The shape and direction is also improved
and the deception is made more complete by the fine marks of
the brush.   If not  too great an effect be required, this may be
gotten  by means of an almond  half-burnt over a candle, or
the black cosmetic may be applied  with a pin when it is only
wished  to  give abetter  arch to the brows; in this manner
may  be  drawn the  line on the  border  of the lid  next the
lashes, or the line for the purpose of lengthening the palpebral
fissure.   Lips which are too narrow and too pale are  often
treated with cosmetics.  Only red grease cosmetics and such
as are  not poisonous,  cinnabar being excepted, are  to be
used.  The paint must never reach  beyond the margin  of the
mucous membrane.  The broadening of the red line of the lips
with paints is practised only on the upper lip, and  there only
in the middle at either side of  the filtrum.  A lengthening of
the mouth  would hardly be undertaken  by any woman in her
right mind.
   In removing cosmetics, water may be used for simple pow-
ders and moist cosmetics.   Grease paints, and powders which 
134
Cosmetics.
have been applied to the previously greased skin, are  to be
removed by rubbing them with grease;  after this is accom-
plished the skin may be cleaned with soap and water.

                        Perfumes.

   Perfumes, odoramenta, are considered cosmetic agents only
in so far as they serve to  give a pleasing odor either to the
surroundings of an individual, his clothes and toilet articles,
or to his person itself.  We shall not  discuss the question
here whether the indescribable, scarcely  perceptible odor of a
fresh, sound, and cleanly skin be not better than any artificial
odor.  From principle we  should  prefer  the former:  " Male
olet, qui bene olet."  No one, however, will deny that the odor
from many faint perfumes combined, used by a lady of taste,
that odor which  is indefinable  yet having its own peculiar
character, may be pleasing and agreeable.   This  perfume is
composed of a number of odors which the linen, the dress, the
gloves,the soap, and the house, give a woman without she herself
having been directly perfumed.   In this way all perfumes are
to be reckoned with the embellishing agents.  Perfumes for
the toilet have been used from  the most ancient  times.  The
agents now  employed are mostly old, but great progress has
been made in the matter of preparation  and preservation of
these, with the assistance of chemistry and an improved tech-
nique.  In diluted form, as perfuming agents are commonly
employed, they have merely an agreeable effect on the organ
of smell;  in concentrated  form, whether taken internally or
applied to the skin, they have a physiological effect, irritating
the part to which they are  applied and antiseptically prevent-
ing decomposition.  Whether a given odor be pleasant or not
is a matter  of individual taste;  for many persons, excluding
those with a morbid sense of smell, hysterical usuahty, certain
odors may be unbearable, while  to others they are agreeable.
Many perfumes which  are disagreeable when concentrated
are pleasing when diluted;  others which  are unpleasant when
used alone combine to form pleasant mixtures.  In the proper
mixture of different perfumes consists the art of the perfumer.
It is rare that even a trained nose can pick out the individual
odors from such a mixture.  To  discover differences of quality
in perfumes of one sort, or to distinguish substances  which 
                         Cosmetics.                     135

have a similar odor, is not possible to any great degree, since
the sense of smell in man is, in our day at least, very little
practised or developed.
   The  substances used as perfumes are either contained in
animal excretions and secretions or in plants. Some of the lat-
ter may also be artificially produced, and some may be made
by chemical processes.
   Drugs of animal origin used in perfumery are the following:
   Ambergris, a light, dark, or ash-gray mass, softened by
heat and melting into an oil, of  peculiar, not exactly pleasant
odor.  Its origin  and  composition and its odorous principle
are not fully known; its origin  and composition  are the sub-
ject of much conjecture.
   Musk, moschus, granules and lumps of dark red color and
peculiar, penetrating persistent  odor.
   The Empress Josephine, wife of Napoleon I., was a great
lover of musk.  Her toilet chamber in Maimaison, although
washed, scraped, and painted repeatedly, still emitted the odor
of musk forty years after her death (Piesse).
   Musk is the secretion of special glands in the region of the
umbilicus in the male  musk-deer (moschus moschiferus, L.).
The moschus tonquinensis is more valuable than the moschus
cabardinus.  The odorous principle of musk is scarcely known;
we know only that the odor is more intense when the musk is
moistened or when combined with weak alkalies.
   Civet is a yellow or brown salve-like mass, which when
undiluted has a disagreeable odor, found  in the anal pouch of
the civet-cat, vivena civetta.   The nature of the odorous prin-
ciple is unknown.
   The  odorous principles of these three drugs  dissolve in
alcohol;  the tinctures so made (ambra 1: 50, musk 1:150, civet
1:150) are too intensely odorous  to be used directly as per-
fumes, but are added as odoramenta to soaps and smelling
powders.  Musk is adapted as a perfume for soaps when they
are not too alkaline.  These agents are important in perfu-
mery, since they render fine, delicate, and fugacious perfumes
permanent, and  so serve as  a  fixing agent.  Castoreum, the
secretion of the inguinal sacs of the beaver, is used for this
purpose, and also  the scaly tail  of the muskrat, fiber zibethi-
cus, which has an odor similar to musk.
   In the vegetable kingdom the number of perfumes is very 
136
Cosmetics.
considerable, and their preparation offers no difficulties except
as to the matter of expense.
   Some genera of plants are very rich in odors, as the Labi-
atae, which contain the Lavandula sp., Origanum  majorana,
Mellissa  offie, Mentha viridis and piperita, Rosmarinus offie,
Salvia off., Thymus serpyllum  and Pogostemon Patchouly;
the Umbilliferae, among which are the Anethum graveolens,
Pimpinella anisum, Fceniculum vulg. and also the  Opopanax
chironium; the Leguminosae, to  which belong the Myroxylon
peruiferum, Myroxylon toluiferum,  Acacia  farnesiana, Dip-
terix  odorata, and Santalum album;  of the Irideae, the  Iris
florentina; of the Orchideae, the Vanilla planifolia; of  the
Liliaceae, the Polyanthes tuberosa; of the Coniferae, the Junipe-
rus virginiana; of the Lauriaceae, the Cinnamomum camphora,
Laurus, Cassia;  of the Graminaceae, the Andropogon Schcen-
anthus, muricatus, nardus; of the Caprifoliaceae, the  Sambucus
nigra; of the  Magnoliaceae, the  Illicium anisatum; of  the
Rosaceae, the Rosa centifola and damascena; of the Geraniaceae,
the Pelargonium odoratissimum; of the Convolvulaceae,  the
Convolvulus scoparius; of the Resedaceae, the Reseda odorata;
of the Violaceae, the Viola odorata; of the Styraceae,  the styrax
benzoin, and officin.; of the Myrtaceae, the Myrtus communis,
Caryophyllus aromaticus; of the Aurantiaceae, the Citrus Ber-
gamia, medica, aurantium; and  of other orders, the Acorus
Calamus, the Narcissus odor., poeticus, the Heliotropium peru-
vianum, the Jasminum odorat., and the Plumeria alba.
   In some plants the perfumes  are in the blossoms, as in the
acacia, heliotrope, violet, etc.; in  others in the herb itself, as in
the mints, patchouly,  etc., or in the fruits  and seeds, as in
most of the Umbelliferae, in the rind, as in cinnamon, or in the
root, as  in the iris.   In  many plants the odor  pervades the
whole plant, and in  others the  flower, the leaf, and the fruit
each have their peculiar odor. In some plants, as the  balsams
and resins, the natural or artificially obtained secretion  fur-
nishes the perfume.
   These odorous principles have the general name of  ethereal
oils; these are, as a rule, mixtures of at least two substances,
a hydrocarbon like turpentine and oxygenated compounds-
camphors, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, esters. The  latter sub-
stances produce the odor in most cases.  The ethereal oils are
mostly fluid at the ordinary temperature; many of them when 
Cosmetics.
137
cooled  separate crystalline  substances called  stearoptens,
while the parts remaining fluid  are  called elaeoptens.   It is
now possible to prepare the  ethereal oils in bulk, almost free
from turpentine, and these are, therefore, more intense in odor.
   Such ethereal oils are called concentrated or patented.  All
ethereal oils partly decompose under the influence of light, air,
and heat; they become oxidized, and their  color and odor are
altered. They must be protected from the air and light.
   The ethereal oils are found in most cases already formed
in plants or dissolved in the cell contents; in a few cases the
ethereal oil is formed by fermentation with water.
   To obtain the oils from the plant, either the part contain-
ing  them must be  destroyed by pressing and  distilling it,
or the oils must be extracted  by suitable solvents.  The parts
can only be subjected to high pressure when they are rich in
oils, as  in the case of the rind  of the fruits of the Aurantiaceae.
The oil which escapes is separated by settling from the watery
mucilaginous fluid of the tissue of the rind.
   In distilling, the  parts or the whole of the plant is put into
an iron, copper, or glass retort, heated either with water over
an open fire or with steam, the vapor cooled in the usual man-
ner, and the distillate received in so-called Florentine bottles
when the oil is  specifically light, or in bottles with a lateral
opening near the top when  the oil is heavy.  In the water
which has  passed over  a quantity of  the oil usually remains
suspended, and may be obtained by  dissolving  it  in a  suit-
able agent.   This, however, is not usually  done,  and the  dis-
tillates, which have taken on the peculiar odor  of the ethe-
real oil, are used as aquae destillatae.  If the quantity of the
oil obtained be too  small, the whole distillate is  poured  over
new parts of the plant, and distilled a second time.  This pro-
cedure is called cohobation.  In most cases  an ordinary water,
poor in salt, is used; in many cases, however, it is well to add
salt to the water.  Finally,  very dilute alcohol may be  used
for the  distillation.  This operation should be used for mate-
rials which are not easily decomposed by heat.
   With many plants whose ethereal oils are not obtained ,
fine enough or in sufficient quantities by distillation,  macera-
tion is employed.  In this process the  flowers are thrown into
tallow and lard or olive oil heated over a water-bath, and left
here from twelve to forty-eight hours.  This may be repeated 
138                     Cosmetics.
with fresh flowers.  The oils take up the odorous  substances,
which can then be extracted by treating with alcohol.  Oils
so prepared are called  huiles antiques.  Orange blossoms,
roses, acacias, violets, and mignonettes are treated in this way.
This process is often combined with the following.
   Absorption or enfleurage is chiefly used for such substances
as do not tolerate the temperature of 104° to 122° F.  which is
required for the maceration; for these a layer of fat  two and
one-half inches deep is placed on inclosed glass tables and the
flowers are strewn on this.   After  from twelve to  seventy-
two  hours the flowers are replaced by new ones.   In  order to
perfume oils, bits of  coarse  cotton  wool are dipped in pure
olive oil, laid on suspended nets, and strewn with the flowers,
which are changed after a certain time.  The perfumed oil is
then pressed out of the cotton wool.
   The so-called pneumatic  method consists in passing a cur-
rent of air or carbonic oxide  gas through  a vessel filled with
flowers, and letting the perfumed air pass into a second vessel
in which fluid fat is kept in constant motion.
   The odorous substances may also be taken up with ether,
chloroform, or petroleum ether.  This is done in an extraction
or displacement apparatus.   The solutions are then subjected
to distillation at as low a temperature as possible, and the re-
mainder of  the solvent removed from the  odorous substance
by passing a current of air or carbonic acid gas through it.
   From  these perfumed fats, by means  of long-continued
maceration with pure alcohol free  from  fusel oil, alcoholic
solutions  of the odorous substances are obtained, which are
called  extracts or essences.   These  essences are either used
directly as perfumes  or in their  preparation, or for  perfum-
ing other cosmetic  preparations.  Even after long macer-
ation, the fats do not give  up all their perfumes to the alco-
hol, but a certain delicate odor is  always retained, and such
fats  may be employed in  the preparation of pomades and
hair oils.  The pureness  and fineness of the odor  of the ex-
tract depends on the quality of the alcohol used; certain per-
fumes  are best obtained by being  dissolved or  distilled in
spirits of wine, while for others corn  spirits are preferred.
   One must not imagine that the  essences prepared  from
the plants named  above are  always of a pleasing odor, even
though the natural perfume of the plant was such.  Many of 
Cosmetics.
139
these perfumes, especially in alcoholic solution, are much too
weak and do not last;  several of them are, therefore, mixed
together,  one, a strong perfume, serving as the basis.  For
such fixation, tinctures of the  animal perfumes  are used,
as well  as the  essence  of vanilla, tonka bean, etc.  Many of
the extracts sold have no more to do with their flaming plant
names than this, since the production of their ethereal oils or
essences would be much too dear.  The ethereal oils of Lonicera
caprifolia, Gaultheria procumbens, Cheiranthus Cheiri,  and
Syringa vulgaris may be obtained. The extracts of these, how-
ever, are generally made by mixing other odorous substances.
Genuine extracts  of the wild rose, the lily, the jonquille, the
magnolia, and  the garden pink are not  to  be obtained.   The
similarity of the odor of the mixtures to that of  the plants
named  is  certainly considerable, but  for an educated nose not
so great as the perfumers would  have one to believe.
    Products of chemical industries are also employed, artificial
varieties  of ether such as valerianic acid ether, benzoic  acid
ether, etc., and their mixtures.
    The form in which the  perfuming agent is to be used de-
pends on the purpose  for which it is to serve, and has been
already treated of in part.
    Drugs having a strong and lasting odor are pulverized and
mixed  in sachets of paper or elegant fabrics, and serve for
perfuming the linen, the gloves, and the clothes in the drawers.
For this  purpose may be used iris  root, vanilla, tonka bean,
vetiver root, cedar and sandal wood, pinks, lavender and acacia
blossoms, benzoin, ambergris, and musk.  The odor of  such
mixtures may be intensified by the addition of strong-smelling,
fine ethereal oils.  These powders may be made into a pasty
mass by  means of tragacanth  mucilage, and put in boxes
with a  perforated cover (cassolette, boule de senteur) and  used
for a similar  purpose.  For perfuming the linen and clothes
peau d'Espagne is also used.  This  consists of two pieces of
 wash leather soaked in  ethereal oils and  gummed together
with a  mixture of balsams and resins of pleasing odor.
    Perfumes are also used in fluid form.  These waters serve
not only  for perfuming  the clothes,  but as solvents, since
thev are strong alcoholic solutions.  What was said of alcohol
and of  balsams and resins applies also to the application of
these waters. 
140
Cosmetics.
   The  spirituous fluid perfumes may be added to the wash
water, but it should be mentioned that this produces a milky
emulsion-like fluid.
   The  aquae destillatae and  the alcoholic  aqueous distillates
may be  added to  the wash water or used in place of this.
   The  toilet vinegars, which consist of solutions  of ethereal
oils in concentrated acidum  aceticum, or  of mixtures of es-
sences with vinegar, since their chief constituent is vinegar and
their action depends on this,  have been spoken of  in  another
place.
   Finally, we should mention smelling salts, pastilles, incense
papers and powders.  Smelling salts, which are in reality per-
fumed ammonia and are used in nausea and fainting, come on
this account within our sphere; the  other preparations, since
they are only used for perfuming the dwelling, do not.

                  Deodorizing Agents.

   Apart from  those agents which were mentioned  among the
acids and soaps, only chlorine  and its preparations and potassii
permanganas need be mentioned.   We have  already  con-
sidered  the  action of both  in hyperidrosis.  Pure  chlorine is
seldom used, on account of  its stifling odor; the same may be
said of the eau  de Labarracque and the eau de Javelle, which
are solutions of  potassii chloridum.  These used in concentrated
form are too caustic.  They  can  be only used very much di-
luted as an addition to foot-baths, etc.  A five to ten per cent
solution of calcii  chloridum, however, may  be used, and since
in itself it has little deodorizing  power, it may be strengthened
by the  addition of a  few drops of acid.   All these chlorine
preparations act  well on skins  which from any cause  emit a
bad odor; their effect is only momentary, and the treatment
of the underlying disease must follow the deodorization.
   Potassii permanganas is  as efficacious  as the  others for
temporary deodorization, but  it has the disadvantage that the
skin becomes brown after its use.  It is, however,  a prepara-
tion otherwise innocent, and is to be  recommended for the re-
moval of accidental bad odors  on the hands  and  elsewhere,
and should  be  on the washstand of  every physician.  The
brown color of  the skin may  be removed by a solution of aci-
dum oxalicum. 
CHAPTER III.
                  THE HAIR  AND NAILS.

                         The  Hair.
   The entire surface of  the human body, with the exception
 of the upper lid, the lips, the  inner surface of the hands and
 feet, and the distal phalanx of the fingers and toes, is covered
 with partly fine, partly coarse hairs.  The former are  woolly
 hairs, lanugo.  These are either  thin, flexible,  and small,  or
 larger, longer, and either more flexible or stiffer.  The shorter
 hairs are not always the weaker; the hairs of the eyebrows
 and lashes and those about the openings of the nose and ears
 are strong.
   The hair is a  thread-shaped structure  formed of  epider-
 moidal tissue. It is divided into the point, the shaft, and the root.
 The latter is an obliquely-situated inversion of the skin, reach-
 ing, when the hair is large, into the subcutaneous cellular tis-
 sue, and provided with a number of sheaths.   At the bottom of
 the hair follicle is an elevation, a papilla, on which  the hair
 bulb rests.   The  papilla contains  a  vascular  network and
 nourishes the hair. The hair itself contains a thin, cortical layer
 or cuticula, the fibrous part, and the medulla.   The cuticula
 consists of cells arranged like overlapping tiles, the finer end
 directed toward the point of the hair; the fibrous part consists
 of spindle-formed cells running in an axial direction.  These
 cells are not immediately joined; there are in the fibrous part
 numerous small, regularly-arranged spaces, which in  health
 are filled with the fat of  the sebaceous glands.  In this layer
 is also the  pigment, in solution  and deposited in granules.
 The medulla, occup3'ing one-fourth or one-third of the  thick-
 ness of the hair, consists of large  cells running in an axial
 direction; in the fine hairs this part is often wanting.
   According to Pincus, the coarseness of the hair in general
 depends on  the number of single  hairs which contain a mar-
row.  The hairs are arranged either singly or in groups. The
groups consist of two, three, or possibly four hairs developing 
1421
Cosmetics.
together.   On  the  hairy parts of the body  the number of
hairs varies not only according to their locality, but also ac-
cording to the race and  individual.  In the fourth part of a
square inch 293 hairs were found on the scalp, 39 in the beard,
and 13 on  the  anterior surface of the thigh.  According to
Witop, a square inch contains 790 blond, 608 chestnut, 572 black,
and 493 red hairs.   The hair is solid, elastic, and hygroscopic.
   The color of the hair depends on the quantity and quality
of the pigment in the fibrous part.  The intensity of the color
decreases with the diameter.  The color is often different in a
single hair through disturbances in its nutrition.  As the hair
becomes gray,  the  pigment in the hair  bulb changes from
black to brown, red, or yellow, and finally disappears; the root
is the first  part of the hair  to become gray.   The hair turns
gray first on the temples, then on the scalp, and later on the
face and genitalia.   As a rule, it is a  sign of old age, but it
may come  on in younger life in consequence of hereditary dis-
position, or of severe diseases, or of sorrow and grief  or sexual
excess.  Cases of the sudden turning gray of the hair are not
rare in the literature. I shall merely refer to the case of Landois-
Mosler, in  which  black hair turned gray with  an attack of
madness; the case of Brown-Sequard, whose beard turned sud-
denly gray; the case of Schenkel, in which the ciliae became
gray after  a traumatic irido-cyclitis, and a number of cases re-
ported by Pincus.   The color of the gray hair depends often
on the original color of the hair.  Black or dark hair becomes
silver white; blonde and  light brown hair become yellow or
yellowish-white.  I  have observed a case, however, in which
both varieties came on together.  The silver-gray hairs, apart
from their  diminished thickness, showed the configuration and
the gloss of normal hair, while the yellowish-white hairs were
of normal size, but flattened into a band form, twisted in long
spirals, and had a  slightly  waxy gloss.  Many  of the latter
pulled out  easily.  I have  observed  this change most fre-
quently in dark beards, while  the hair of  the  head remained
black or showed here and there a silver-gray hair.  There is
also a milky-white decolorization of single  bunches of the hair,
partly with a lack of pigment in  the underlying skin, partly
with normal pigment.   The former, vitiligo, is found in round
or irregular patches in the hair of the  head, the eyebrows,
lashes, beard, and the hair of the genitalia.  These spots may 
                         Cosmetics.                      143

appear as early as the tenth year and last through life.  Since
this, like the corresponding  anomaly of the  skin, resists all
remedies, and is in many cases very disagreeable, it  is an in-
dication for dyeing the hair.
   A cosmetic question of  more importance is the  falling out
of the hair.   According to Pincus, the average hair lives from
two to  six  years, then falls out and is replaced by another.
Every day  a number of hairs fall  out, the typical normal
change.   Among  these are many hairs which are short and
apparently  young, yet  which fall out under normal physio-
logical  conditions.  In  the normal  change these short hairs
should not  form over one-fourth of the total number  falling
out each day.  The daily number is usually from fifty to sixty.
If it be greater it  is anomalous.  The hairs which fall out are
provided with their bulbs  for the most part.  A bad barber,
however, may break the hair above its root.  One-fifth of the
long hairs which  fall out  have a normal  root;  in the others
this is clearer and thinner.  In old age and in many diseases
of the skin, the  absolute number of  the hairs falling  out daily
is larger, and the percentage of the short hairs is greatly in-
creased.  The hair then soon becomes thinner.  In the ordi-
nary chronic falling out of the hair, the individual hairs lose
in length but not  in thickness, and this stage passes as a rule
unnoticed by the  patient,  while in the second stage  the  indi-
vidual hairs become shorter as well as thinner, and the loss is
readily recognized.   In the  further  course of this  trouble the
amount of  hair is lessened, and the individual  hairs become
thin, delicate, and poorly  colored; later, nothing but  lanugo
hairs develop.   Finally even these cease to grow, and an epi-
dermal plug rests in the hair follicle.  When the papillae and
the hair follicles atrophy, the baldness is permanent and in-
curable.  This falling of  the hair occurs usually on the fore-
head and at the vertex of the head, while the occipital portion
below the level of the  points of the ears remains, as a rule,
hairy.  There are, however,  variations from this, as  when the
baldness extends symmetrically on both sides from the frontal
protuberances toward the vertex, leaving a tuft of hair in the
middle of the forehead.
    Rapid baldness follows both severe general diseases and
various  skin affections. Such an alopecia prematura symp-
tomatica appears after typhus and in simple syphilides of the 
144
Cosmetics.
scalp.   These cases get well, as a rule, after the cure of the
underlying disease.   Alopecia after  deep inflammatory pro-
cesses in  the  skin is usually permanent, and always so when
the follicle has been destroyed by  suppuration, by cicatrix
formation, b}* pressure or cellular infiltration.   In  other dis-
eases a scaling off of the skin occurs together with the loss of
hair;  this is  called  alopecia furfuracea.   Although such  a
baldness comes on in many general diseases, together with an
exfoliation of  the skin, the former cannot be considered as de-
pendent on the latter, but both come  from a disturbance of
nutrition.  These cases of alopecia get well usually, but may
last for months.
   The true alopecia furfuracea is caused by a chronic sebor-
rhoea of the scalp.   This is entirely idiopathic, corresponding
to the seborrhoea of other parts of the  body, and comes on in
both  sexes, but more frequently in the male, without  an as-
certainable cause.  It usually exists some  time before it is
noticed; the seborrhoea may get well of itself and permanent
baldness remain.  Since in thick  hair there is naturally  a
formation of  scales on the scalp, an alopecia seborrhoica can-
not be easily differentiated from a  simple alopecia in the first
stages. The growth of new hair is hindered  in  seborrhoic
alopecia by the seborrhoic process.  By the overproduction
of sebaceous matter and  epidermis, the sheaths of the hair
roots connected with the glands are either  loosened or atro-
phied by compression, which is followed first by the formation
of lanugo hairs, later by the  destruction of the hair follicle.
Seborrhoea and alopecia may develop in the eyebrows of per-
sons of either sex, and rarely in the scalp of women and the
beard  of men.  The  duration of both  affections is long, the
prospects  of recovery are unfavorable, and especially so in
the alopecia seborrhoica in its subacute form.
   Apart from seborrhoea and the  causes mentioned here, the
reason for the development of alopecia  is obscure.  Doubtless
nationality and heredity play an important role, as well as the
quantity and  quality of  the hair originally.  Thick,  coarse
hairs not close together seem less inclined to fall out, while
slender, delicate, and soft hairs fall more readily. It may de-
pend in part on the difficulty of cleansing the hair in this lat-
ter case.  The rareness of  alopecia of the beard may depend
on the same cause.   That heredity  has  its influence is clearly 
Cosmetics.
145
seen in many cases  in which persons from fifteen to twenty
years old become bald suddenly without  appreciable cause,
while the same  thing  has occurred in several generations.
The care of  the hair and of the scalp has certainly a great in-
fluence on the persistence of the growth of hair.  The unsuit-
ability of our head  covering, with its  lack of ventilation, is
one of the causes of premature baldness, as is shown in the
Orientals, who wear the fez constantly; the depravity of the
modern youth may also  favor the  development of alopecia.
Water  in the form of  washes or douches is  another  cause
which may dispose to alopecia.
   Another disagreeable variety of baldness is alopecia areata.
The hair here falls  out suddenly  within a small  area.   The
hairs in the neighborhood of these circular spots loosen  and
fall out, so that the  bald patch may  increase greatly within a
few days; and when several of these develop and the disease
progresses, the whole head  majT  become  bald within a  few
months.  The bald  scalp does not appear changed as a rule,
but is smooth and white.  The duration of this disease may
be from a few weeks to two years; it gets well spontaneously,
the hairs ceasing to fall out, lanugo hairs developing on the
bare  spots, and finally normally pigmented hairs.   This is the
ordinary course.  In some cases the  disease does not  limit
itself, the eyebrows, the lashes, the  beard, and the hair of the
body falling out.  No definite cause  has been  ascertained for
this disease.  The idea  of Kaposi that  it is a trophic neurosis
is plausible, but does not explain the disease altogether.
    Microbes have also been supposed to be capable of causing
all the varieties of alopecia; in alopecia furfuracea in particu-
lar, Lassar and others have accepted a pathogenic organism
and have demonstrated the contagious nature of the disease.
While no fault can be found with  the observations of so good
an investigator, still it must be remembered that  there are a
great number of cases of alopecia  furfuracea which are not
contagious,  since under all the  combined  evils  which  this
author  speaks of,  and especially  the common  use by the
family of the same  comb and brush, no contagion occurs.  I
hold  the same opinion as the representative of the Vienna der-
matological school in regard to alopecia areata, which Kaposi
says definitely is not contagious.  The hygienic rules which
Lassar lays down should certainly be followed, since by the
           10 
146
Cosmetics.
use of common instruments by the barber, in public bathing
places, and even in families, infections of other natures might
occur;  and  the other injurious practices, such as the  use of
pure fats, etc., may favor the  simple falling  out of the hair
without any bacteriological complication.   The fact that anti-
parasitic treatment  may cure an alopecia areata is  no evi-
dence of its parasitic nature, since this disease, as said  above,
will often get well of itself.
   Alopecia areata and idiopathic alopecia do not preclude the
existence of each other.  I have seen both together, and have
also observed  cases in which, shortly after  the complete cure
of an alopecia  areata, an idiopathic baldness came on.
   The treatment of baldness depends of course on the nature
of the  affection.   Although Pohl-Pincus, Lassar, and  others
give therapeutic treatment for each variety, we are only cer-
tain of a result in alopecia seborrhoica.  A proper  caring for
the hair and  proper hygienic  habits may  prevent  in  many
cases  the idiopathic premature  alopecia.   The therapy of
alopecia  seborrhoica is, with slight exceptions, that of  sebor-
rhoea  in  general.  However, the  scales, which consist  of fat
and epidermis, must be first removed.  When they are numer-
ous, oil or grease should  be applied in large quantities; when
the crusts are softened, agents  are to be employed  which
saponify the sebaceous matter and the crusts and emulsify the
dirt.  These agents  are  either alkalies or  soaps;  when the
scalp is resistant, barrel  soap, and when it is tender, fluid gly-
cerin soap.
   These soaps and the spiritus saponatus kalinus  should be
rubbed in vigorously, with the assistance of a flannel cloth or
a bath glove.  The soapsuds  are  to  be washed off with luke-
warm followed by cooler water or, better, with a douche.  If
the scalp become sensitive and fissured from this application,
it may be protected by oils and pomades, which must of  course
be pure.  Following  this comes the actual treatment  of the
alopecia, which for the  most  part must be directed toward
raising the  tone  of the  sebaceous glands  and hair follicles.
For this purpose are adapted most alcohols and alcoholic tinc-
tures to  which acidum  carbolicum,  acidum salicylicum, etc.,
are added;  balsamic agents and ethereal oils such as benzoin,
Peru balsam, tar, and naphthol have a tonic action and are
especially indicated when the  underlying skin is hyperaemic 
                         Cosmetics.                     147

and tender.  Tannin and quinine are also tonics.  If there be
no hyperaemia of the scalp, irritating agents like cantharides,
capsicum, and veratrina may be used.
   This method of treating alopecia seborrhoica is, with slight
variations, given by most authors for  the various sorts of
alopecia.  It is  quite unimportant whether the scalp be first
washed with an alkaline or  tar soap, or with  the mixture of
soaps, potash, and soda  recommended by Lassar, or with the
solution  of  sodii bicarbonas recommended by Pincus.   The
effect desired is the saponification of the sebaceous  matter of
the scalp and  the  emulsification and consequent removal of
the epidermis crusts.  If one prefer, like Lassar, to substitute
sublimate for the alcohol or alcoholic solution of  an irritant,
this is almost a  mere matter of taste; and in the same way
acidum salicylicum  ma}T be added to the oil which  is rubbed
in later.   Neither sublimate  nor acidum salicylicum are spe-
cifics in the treatment of any of these alopecias, as is shown by
the great numbers  of remedies recommended, of which one or
the other had in a certain case a beneficial effect.   Pilocarpine,
either locally applied or injected subcutaneously, was recom-
mended first by Schmitz, later by Lassar, as an agent increas-
ing the growth  of the hair.   If any principle of treatment for
alopecia is to be established, it consists in the emploj-ment of
alkali, alcohol, fat,  and irritants as we have  described.   The
chief  point  in this, as in cosmetic  treatment in general, is a
rational hygienic care of  the skin, which will be spoken of later.
   Besides the changes described which affect the head of hair,
there are also  anomalies of the individual hairs which may
accompany alopecia or which may come on alone.  As a fore-
runner of alopecia, the single hairs become thin,  brittle, dry,
and lustreless, which changes may also  be found in general
diseases.  A peculiar variety  of atrophy of  tht  hair is tri-
choptilosis.   In  such hairs  the point is  split  up  into fibres.
This condition  found in the long hair of women and in the
beard  of men may  depend on a partial dryness  of the hair
(Kaposi) or on abnormal nutritive relations.  It seems to me
that the hairs in the partially whitening  beard, which lose
their cylindrical form and become flat, are especially disposed
to this splitting. Another form of this disease, called trichor-
rexis  nodosa by Kaposi, shows spherical  or  spindle-formed
swellings on individual hairs of the  beard and more rarely of 
148
Cosmetics.
the scalp.  At these places the hair is brittle without appar-
ently being loosened at its  root.  The cause of this disease,
which certainly depends on a disturbance of nutrition, is not
known.
   While trichoptilosis may be cured by frequent cutting and
rational care of the hair, trichorrhexis is hardly to  be cured
by any agent if  the hair is  retained, and only in a few cases
has it been cured by repeatedly shaving the hair.
   Another frequent anomaly of the hair is its hypertrophy.
By this is  not meant the new development of hair, nor the
excessive length and closeness of it  in localities where natur-
ally long and  close hair grows.  The  long  rich hair of some
females cannot  be called hypertrichosis, nor can the exces-
sively long beard of some men.  But  those  cases are called
hypertrophy of the hair in which many parts of the body and
the unbearded portion of the face are covered with soft, close
blond or dark lanugo hairs, and the  deformity, unpleasant in
the female, where thick, dark, veritable beard  hairs develop
on the upper lip, chin, and other parts of the face.  The hairy
growth on warts and naevi  belongs here also.   These latter
are the most frequent objects of cosmetic treatment, and  next
to these the more  or less close, woolly hair on the face of
females. Small, dark beard hairs on the upper lip of women
are often considered piquant or even supposed to be becoming.
   The cause  of  hypertrophy,  leaving out of  consideration
heredity and race, is obscure.  Women with dark skins, and
southerners in general, frequently  show the anomaly  of a
coquettish  mustache.   The abnormal  development  of  this
hair may depend in many cases on irregularities in the sexual
sphere, in many cases perhaps on a local irritation.
   The therapy of hypertrophy of the hair may vary.  Simple
shaving leaves the stump of the hairs  visible, and habitually
indulged in leads to  pigmentation  of  the  skin.   When the
hairs  are present in considerable number it is best to remove
them  by means of depilatories.   When the number is small
they may be pulled out with the forceps; but since this method
is painful and  since it must be frequently repeated,  it is not
much used.
   The newest method and one to be recommended is the epi-
lation by electrolysis.
   This operation is simple, and when made according to the 
                         Cosmetics.                      I ig

rules laid down by Lustgarten,33 is entirely innocent.  A posi-
tive sponge electrode is placed  in the patient's hand, a nega-
tive needle electrode is pushed  into the hair follicle.   In  the
negative current a galvanometer and a rheostat are included.
The current used  is from one-half to one milliampere.  After
the introduction of the  needle,  the handle of  the rheostat is
turned and the current is allowed to act twenty  to thirty
seconds.
   The action of the  current is, as  was  said before, merely
chemical.  In consequence  of the electrolysis, a frothy fluid
escapes from the follicle.  The reaction is  slight and not very
painful.  The skin about the needle  becomes first pale  and
later red.  After a day or two, small  brownish, dry crusts
form at the point of entrance of the needle, which soon disap-
pear without leaving a trace.   From twenty to forty hairs
may be removed  at  each  sitting,  repeated  perhaps three
times a week.
   The bad effects of the operation are too strong or too ex-
tensive cauterization,  and in consequence  of  this  reddening
and inflammation of the skin.   These are  to be treated in  the
usual fashion, and if proper care be taken, chiefly in  regard to
the strength of the current, they may easily be prevented.
   The agents acting on the hair may affect the hair itself or
the scalp.  The scalp, like all skin, is elastic, of a color varying
indifferent individuals and containing a certain amount of fat.
The elasticity of the scalp is somewhat less than that of  the
remainder of  the skin, since it  is connected with the perios-
teum of the skull by a stiff connective tissue poor in fat, and
by a  very thin muscular layer.   The more this tissue disap-
pears with advancing  age, the more its elasticity and tumes-
cence diminish.  The color of the scalp is always paler than
that of the surrounding skin.  In black-haired individuals it
is more bluish, in blondes more reddish-white.   If the hair dis-
appears from  the scalp or if it  be shaved regularly like the
beard, the color of the scalp comes to be more like that of the
face.  When the hair is regularly removed, either by the scis-
sors or chemical agents, the color of the scalp becomes darker.
The  scalp is normally more oily than the remainder of the
skin; the fat  of the sebaceous glands serves to oil  the hair,
but under some circumstances the removal of  the fat is pre-
vented, and it remains  on  the  scalp mixed with  epidermis 
150
Cosmetics.
 scales as a  seborrhoea  capillitii furfuracea.   On the other
 hand, especially in  old  age, the  scalp ma}T  lack the neces-
 sary fat.  The hypersecretion of the sweat of the scalp comes
 within our sphere and also  the anomalies  of elasticity of the
 skin and of the amount of fat contained in  it, anomalies which
 affect the hair as well as the scalp.  What is said here of the
 scalp will serve for the skin of other hairy  parts.
   The hair,  the chief adornment of the human head, owes its
 beauty in part  to the condition of  the underlying skin  and
 suffers with  its anomalies.  To the turgescence of the skin
 they owe their position and in part  their  secure fixation; to
 the fat of the skin they owe their lustre and their flexibility.
 The color alone does not depend on  the skin but on the race
 to which the individual  belongs, although, as already stated,
 pigmentary anomalies of the skin as a rule cause anomalous
 pigmentation of the hair or complete lack  of pigment.  If the
 turgescence of the skin grows less in age, the hair falls out; if
 the sebaceous glands produce too  little fat, the hairs become
 dry and  brittle;  if there exists seborrhoea, the hair falls out
 with the epidermis scales; if the scalp is kept damp by hyper-
 secretion of the sweat, the hairs become rough and lustreless
 and finally fall out.
   Therefore hair cosmetics must be such  as protect the hair
 from the bad influences of the atmosphere  and other agencies,
 such as remove the  foreign matter  in an  innocent way, such
 as give the hair a lustre  and fine color and prevent its falling
 out.   This latter, and further, that of making the hair grow
 again are the weak points in the cosmetic treatment of the hair.
 From the standpoint of the physician, it is clear that in most
 cases the hair can only be protected from injurious agencies.
   A rational care of the hair will accomplish much; this con-
 sists first in the washing of the head.  The  intervals should
 vary according  to the condition  of the scalp  as to whether it
 be too oily or too dry, from fourteen days to a month.   When
 soap water has an unpleasant effect, the yolk of egg may be
 used  for  the  washing. Too frequent washing or douching of
 the head  is to be avoided.   The hair is to be carefully dried
 after washing.   To prevent dryness  and tension of the scalp
 after washing, it should  be oiled with /pomades or pure oils.
 Combing or brushing the hair in the wrong direction is injuri-
ous, as is also the use of curling irons. 
Cosmetics.
151
                           Fats.
   The physiological action of these has been explained;  they
prevent the evaporation of water from the scalp and from the
hair and so preserve the lustre, smoothness, and natural  posi-
tion of the hair.  Hair which lacks these should have  hair-
oils arid pomades used upon it.  Grease protects the hair  from
dust, from the  heat, from the wind, from  moisture, and  from
sudden changes of temperature which injure the hair imme-
diately or after a time.   It is a much better preservative and
cleansing agent for the  hair than soap and water.  Grease is
the more indicated where the scalp  is not oiled  enough by the
natural sebaceous matter.   In diseases of the hair, when  they
split, or when they fall out, grease is frequently indicated.  It
is used with other agents in the treatment of seborrhoea capil-
litii, and alone in many  parasitic affections of the head.
   The use of grease on the hair is only contra-indicated in
exceptional cases; when there is a normal secretion of fat, and
the hair has its natural lustre it should not be used, as here it
may make the hair fall  out more quickly.  On the other hand,
very shiny hair is not  pleasant to  see.  Laborers often use
machine oil when they have no other fat, and I have seen one
man who greased his head with petroleum.  There are hairs
which  will not tolerate the use of grease.  As a rule, pomades
and  hair oils should not be used oftener than two or three
times  a week, and when frequently used, the  hair  and scalp
should be thoroughly cleaned each time with soap and water.
   For purely  cosmetic purposes, such as  making the  hair
shiny, curling it or smoothing it, small quantities of the grease
are to be applied to the hair.   For curative  purposes, as in
many cases of the falling out of the hair, the scalp alone  is to
be rubbed with the grease; and in  some cases, as for driving
away parasites, both hair and scalp are to be rubbed with the
grease.
   Many fats are especially popular as hair  pomades, since
they are  supposed to strengthen the scalp  and increase the
growth of  the hair.  These are the medulla  ossium  bovis, the
fat  combed from  the mane of  a horse, etc., and  in ancient
times the bone marrow  of the stag (cervae medulhe,  Ovid) and
ursinus adeps which Cleopatra is said to have used, and which
many ladies suppose the}' use in the  pommades a la graisse 
152
Cosmetics.
d'ours.  In place of most of  these  fats, lard is now used, ap-
parently with the same results.
   The first rule in prescribing hair oils and pomades is to be
certain  that only pure fat is used.  The  same reasons serve
here as in the application of  fats to the skin; the fats which
may be used on the hair need, therefore, not be mentioned
here.  As a basis for pomades purified lard should be used,
to which, in order to make  it more  permanent, one  to  five
per cent, of acidum salicylicum or benzoin may be added.   In
place of this, fine resins and  balsams may be used, which at
the same time give a perfume to the pomade.
   As the basis of hair-oils should be used one of the freshly-
pressed seed oils, of which the simplest and  best  is the oleum
amygdalar. dulc.  By mixing solid fats with oils, pomades
may be made of airy consistence desired;  for the  summer the
consistence  is best increased by adding wax.  In  order to
make pomades more pleasing to the eye, melted spermaceti
or paraffin mixed with oil is allowed to cool slowly, producing
a crystalline pomade; wax and spermaceti dissolved in fatty
oils furnish transparent pomades.  For perfuming pomades
and hair oils, ethereal  oils or lard fats,  or  fatty oils (huiles
antiques) are used, which have served for extracting odorous
substances.   These fats which by maceration in alcohol have
given off the greater part of  their odor, have still enough re-
maining to make them serviceable in the preparation of hair
pomades (pommades epuisees).   Many pomades are also col-
ored.  Rose  pomades are colored  with  carmine or  henna;
beard pomades with  lamp-black or umber; stick pomades are
often colored green.
   In order  to make pomades  more transparent  and more
solid,  agar-agar is added. Other pomades which are to be
used for fixing the hair are  mixed with  gums, glycerin,  and
alcohol.  Apart from the fact that gums, agar-agar, and  the
like, stick to the hair and give it an unpleasing  appearance,
these  are all injurious from the decomposition which they un-
dergo.  As for glycerin, mutatis mutandis, what was said of
its injurious action on the skin, applies here.   When glycerin
is applied to the hair, it not only  extracts  water from  the
hairs  and renders these less  elastic and  more brittle, but it
catches  the  atmospheric dust  and forms  with  it a thick
paste which prevents the evaporation of the water and  dis- 
Cosmetics.
153
poses the hair to take  up the infectious matters floating in
the air.
   Hair fats may have the consistence of salve, as in ordinary
pomades;  or the consistence of wax, as  in the roll pomades
(fixateurs); or they may be fluid, as in  hair  oils;  or finally
viscid, as in most brillantines.  The following are serviceable:

    IJ Adip. suilli,
      Axung. benzoin.,      .    .     .         aa  i iv.
      Pomat. rosat. gallic, (de Grasse),   -       | ij.
      01. amygd. dulc,.....3 viij.
    C. alcanna tinct.,
      01. rosae,.......3 ss.
    M.   S.  Creme circassienne (Piesse),
IJ  Axung.,
   Sebi ovil.,
   01. amygd. dulc,
   Bals. Peruv.,  .
   Tne. benzoin.,
aa 3 ij.
■   3 ij.
.   3i.
   3 ss.
   M.  S. Pomade (Debay); a simple and serviceable pomade.

   IJ Pomat. tuberos. gall.,.....3 iy-
      01. ricini,
      01. amygd.,.......    aa 3 ij.
      01. aeth. berg.,......3 ij.
   M.  S. Castor-oil pomade.

   IJ 01. ricini,.......3 i.
      Spir.  vini rect.,......3 iss.
      01. aeth. flor. aur.,.....gtt. ij.
   M.  S. Brillantine.

   Castor oil is supposed  to increase the growth of the hair.
After its frequent  use  the hair gets a thick, greasy  coating,
as after  the use of  glycerin.  In using these pomades and oils*
the hair  must be very carefully cleansed.

   3 Medull. oss. bovis,.....•   ! i-
      01. amygd. dulc,......3  ij.
      01. rosa^.........glt-iv-
   M.  S. Pomade. 
154
Cosmetics.
3vi.
.  3 iss.

aa 3 vi.

 aa TIL vi.
aa
iss.
  IJ Cerae alb.,.....
     01. antiq. ros.,   ....
      "    "   acae,
      "    "   jasmini,
      "    "   flor. aur.,
      "    "   tuberosae,  .
  M.  S. Pomade philocome (Piesse).
   IJ 01. antiq. rosae,
      "    "   tuberos.,
      "    "   flor. aurant.,
     Cetacei,.......aa  3vi.
   M.  S. Huile crystallise (Piesse).
   IJ Cerae alb.,.......3i.
     Cetae,........3 ij.
   Liquef. misce c.
     01. amyg. d.,......i viij.
   Semirefrig. agit. c.
      Aq. rosae,
      Glycerini,......aa  3 ss.
      01. rosae,.......gtt ij.
   M.   S. Creme neige.  (On account of its small amount of
glycerin, serviceable but not  popular.)
    IJ Cetacei,......
      Paraffini,.....
      01. antiq. rosae,
       "    "   violar.,
       "    "   tuberos.,
      01. flor. aurant.,   ....
    M.   S.  Huile crystallise (Bernatzik).
    IJ 01. amygd. dulc,
      01. antiq. jasm., .
3i.
3 ss.
aa, 3 hj.
.   3i.
    "    "   tuberos.,
    "    "   flor. aurant
   01. amygd. amar.,
M.   S. Hair oil.
# 01. behen.,  .
   01. aeth. bergam.,
   Trae. ambrae,
M.   S. Hair oil.
3 ISS.
3 hj.
3 i.
3 i.
gtt. ij.

i iiiss.
gr. vi.
gtt. ij. 
Cosmetics.
155
   1>  Axung. benzoin.,
      Cera? albae,......aa i iss.
      Pomat. jasmini,
             tuberos.,.....aa, 3 vi.
      01. rosae,.......gtt. v.
   M.  S. Roll pomatum (Piesse).

   IJ  Cene alb.,.......3 i.
      Sapon. oleae,
      Gum mi arab.,.....aa  3 vi.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 iss.
      01. bergam.,......3ij.
      01. thy mi,.......gtt. iiss.
   M.  S. Hungarian pomade for the mustache (Piesse).


  Agents  used for  Drying the Hair and Removing its
                           Fat.

   Agents Used for Dandruff.—In  individuals  in whom by
nature the scalp is very oily, where there is an overproduction
of sebaceous matter, and where this matter, together with the
atmospheric dust and the cast-off epidermis, produces the dis-
agreeable condition called dandruff, all varieties of fat-remov-
ing agents are indicated, and the choice depends on the degree
of the trouble.
   These agents are the alkalies, the soaps, and alcohol.  They
act here very much as on the skin, the two former by sapon-
ifying the fat and emulsifying the dirt, the latter by dissolv-
ing the fat and extracting the water.  The action is somewhat
different, however.  The scalp  is much  more  sensitive and
delicate than the remainder of the skin, and is much more
easily injured by harmful influences.  Continued washing with
alkaline fluids,  the energetic application of  these in concen-
trated form, and the use of too caustic alkalies dry the scalp,
the skin seems too tight, and an annoying feeling of tension
comes  on.  After the more intense application of  these, the
scalp becomes red, sensitive, and painful.  The application of
alcohol causes  effects similar but not so intense.  The hairs
are very thin, horny structures which have nearly completed
their term of  life, and when frequently  treated with alkaline 
156                     Cosmetics.
solutions, as  may be seen in a simple test-tube  experiment,
they  swell  up,  become transparent, lose their  lustre and
color, become partly dissolved and brittle;  on this action de-
pends  the employment of depilatories.   Alcohol  affects the
hair in a milder manner; it  removes the fat completely, ab-
stracts the water, and when its use is  continued  makes the
hair rough.   The caustic alkalies are here seldom employed,
and even the simple alkaline carbonates are used only in weak
concentration.  The  neutral soda soaps  and sodii boras  as
well have a  much milder action, but do not remove the fat
completely.
   These conditions furnish the indications for the use of the
individual remedies.  Soaps and sodii boras are used  for sim-
ple cleansing, and for removing some of the fat from  the nor-
mal hair and scalp, and the excess of fat  after the use of oils
and pomades. Solutions of the alkaline carbonates, weak solu-
tions of  the caustic alkalies, strong alkaline soaps, potash
soaps, and spiritus saponus kalini are indicated in seborrhoea
capillith  and  when there is excessive formation of dandruff;
alcohol and alcoholic fluids are indicated for drying  the hair
and removing its fat.  The stronger agents are also used as
preparatory agents before dyeing the hair, since here the fat
must be entirely removed.
   Since the dilute acids act in some respects like the alkalies,
acidum aceticum and  salicylicum may be  used for dandruff,
and also aromatic substances and balsams, such  as  benzoin
and Peru balsam.
   Soaps may be prescribed either in fluid form, as fluid gly*
cerin soap, or in alcoholic  solutions.  In  order to lessen the
subjective symptoms which the washing with alcoholic fluids
alone may cause, glycerin may be added.   But since the latter
is injurious to the hair, only small quantities of it should  be
used.  The acids and the aromatic  substances are given in
alcoholic or in ethereal solutions. Alkalies and sodii boras are
used in aqueous solution and only in small quantities;  they
are sometimes mixed with alcohol, which has no purpose.
   Drying powders are given as such.  They  should not  be
strongly perfumed, chiefly since strong odors on the head are
disagreeable, and also  because cases are recorded in  which a
considerable addition of iris has caused  nervous attacks and
even epilepsy.  For the removal  of dandruff  these powders, 
Cosmetics.
157
especially the more active ones, may be prescribed in the form
of salves.
   Prescriptions for soaps may be found under the heading of
soaps.  For the other agents  some  prescriptions are given
here:
   IJ Potassii carb.,......3 ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......§ hiss.
   M.  S. Dandruff water.
   IJ Sodii bor,.......3 i.
      Aq. destil.,.......! hiss.
   M.  S. Idem.

   IJ Sapon. oleae,......3 iij.
      Spir.  vini gall.,......3 iiiss.
      Aq. colon.,.......§ iss.
   M.  S. Hair water; a mildly-acting remedy for dandruff.
   IJ Potassii carb.,......3 iij.
      Aq. destil.,.......3" vij.
      Vitell. ovor.,.......No. iij.
   M. S. Water for washing the hair.  (The yolk of egg must
be beaten until fully mixed.)

   IJ  Potas. carb.,.......3ij.
      Aq. rosae,.......| iiiss.
      Glycerini,.......3 hj.
   M.  S. Dandruff water.

   The  following are to be rubbed energetically into the scalp
in the evening-; in obstinate cases they may be left to dry and
removed some days  later Avith yolk of egg  and lukewarm
water or with yolk-of-egg soap.
   IJ 01. cocos,
      Sebi bovini,
      Liq. sod. caust.,.....aa,  3 iss.
      Vitell. ovor,.......No. vi.
      01. de cedro,......3 i.
   Fiat via frigida sapo pond.,   ....   3 iiiss.
   M.   S. Yolk-of-egg soap (Auspitz).
   This may also be  used alone  in seborrhoea and  dandruff
formation. 
i58
Cosmetics.
   IJ Acid, salicyl.,.....gr. xvi.- 3 ss.
     Spir. vini gallic,    ....   3 iiiss.
   M.  S. Dandruff essence.
   IJ Acid, carbol.,......gr. iiss.
     Spir.  vini rect.,......i hiss.
     Glycerini,.......3 ss.
   M.  S. Water for dandruff (Kaposi).
   IJ Acid, borici,  .  '......3 hj.
     Glycerini,......q. s. ad sol.
     Spir. vini,.......i x.
     01. caryophyll.,......i ss.
   M.  S. Water for washing in pityriasis capitis (Neumann).
   IJ Acid, carbol.,
     Bals. peruv.,
     Spir.  lavandul.,.....aa 3 i.
     Spir.  vini gallic,......| x.
   M.  S. Idem (Neumann).
   IJ Spirit, aetheris,......i hiss.
     Trae.  benzoini,......i ss.
   M.  S. Dandruff water (Hebra).

   Among these  agents are to be included a number of powders,
some indifferent, some slightly astringent.   For drying hair
which  is by nature oily, where the  scalp  is not over fatty,
simple  absorbent  powders, such  as rice  meal and  alumen
plumosum,  may  be used in one of the forms already given.
   Hair powders are used  for  hygienic purposes and as pre-
ventive agents, especially by women  in severe diseases and in
child-bed.   The tangling of the hair and its loss in consequence
of this  may be prevented by the proper use of powder.  In such
cases a little acidum salicylicum should be added to prevent
decomposition and its bad odor.   To prevent the chilling of
the scalp after the bath, powder  may be used in many cases
in place  of fat.   Since  dry and  rough hair appears thicker
than that moist  and oily, many women use powder to make a
thin head of hair appear fuller. Nothing is to  be used, how-
ever, when  the hair is very oily, except the necessary cleaning.
Powdering the hair for cosmetic purposes is not  much done in
our day, but is, however, practised by some women and indeed
not to  the detriment of their beauty.  Those who are discon- 
Cosmetics.
159
tented with the color of their hair and who do not wish to use
dyes, powder their chestnut or red hair to make it  appear
blond.  The use of gold or copper dust (gold powder) or glass
dust (diamond powder) is now very rare.
   If a strong astringent be indicated, as in severe seborrhoea
or hyperidrosis of the scalp, the metallic salts already men-
tioned may be added  to the powder, as for example zinci oxi-
dum, plumbi acetas and carbonas, hydrargyrum praecipitatum,
and  bismuthi subnitras.  These agents  are more frequently
employed in the form of salves.  The prescriptions given may
be used on the hairy scalp.

   IJ Zinci oxid.,
      Plumbi carb.,.....aa, 3 i.
      Ungt. pomad.,......§ iss.
   M.  S. Salve.

  IJ  Hydrarg. praecip.,......3 i.
      Tinct. benzoini,......3 ij.
      Cerae alb.,
      01. amygd. dulc,.....aa i i.
   M.  S. Salve.

   The application of these agents is very simple.  The alka-
line  fluids are applied two or three times a week with a soft
brush; alcoholic solutions are applied with a  sponge.  If  the
hair itself is to be treated, single strands are separated with
a coarse comb, moistened with a sponge, and dried with a soft
cloth.  To pour a quantity of fluid over the head and then to
dry it by rubbing it energetically with a cloth, as  persons with
short hair are accustomed to do, is directly injurious.  When
crusts are present these  are to be softened with  oil, either by
pouring oil on directly, or by rubbing it on  by means of a bit
of flannel.  After the removal of these, soap should be  applied
with a shaving-brush or with  a piece of flannel and finally
washed off with warm water;  in most cases the scalp should
then be  greased with salves or oils.  When  there is only a
moderate amount of  crust formation, the scalp  should  be
rubbed every two weeks with  spiritus saponis kalini in  the
evening and washed  in the morning; besides this, the scalp
should be washed with alcohol two or three  times in the week,
and  once a week it  should be greased.  Salves  are to  be 
i6o
Cosmetics.
rubbed on with the palm of the hand after the head has been
thoroughly cleaned with soap.

   Agents for Increasing  the Growth of the Hair.

   In the sehse understood by the laity and perfumers we do
not recognize such agents.  There are, however, cases in which,
with a rational  care of the hair, proper agents may stop or
lessen or delay the falling out of the hair.  The active agents
are but  few, however, and only two  or three need  be men-
tioned.   A number of these have  been spoken of in the pre-
ceding, viz., alcoholic, balsamic, and alkaline medicaments.
   They are softening and  loosening in their action, like the
alkalies, or of tonic action  such  as  cinchona and  quinine;
others contain tannin;  others alcoholic and balsamic agents;
others are irritants, such as cantharides, sabina, veratrum,
capsicum, hellebore, and ammonia; sublimate may  be men-
tioned here,  although  not  properly an agent increasing the
growth of hair.  Besides these, there are substances which are
said to  have a direct influence on the growth of  hair, such as
potassii  iodidum and pilocarpine.  A  number of other sub-
stances having no specific action,.such as the fats and bardana
root, are also employed.
   The agent to be chosen depends on the nature of the falling
out  of the hair; some  of these, especially the alcoholic and
irritant  agents, may  be injurious when long used, and since
the course of the disease is often chronic and the application
of the remedies must be long continued, they often do harm.
They may either cause the  hairs to  become  brittle or may
give them an abnormal color.  When  alkalies are used, dark
hair becomes lighter or reddish-brown, cinchona and tannin
pomades make the hair darker, sabina makes it dirty gray or
grayish-brown.   The agent used must be often changed, and
irritants are to be  used alternately  with emollients.  Fre-
quently agents of different sorts are combined.
   Alkalies are indicated when the falling out of the hair de-
pends on the formation of crusts;  sodii bicarbonas  has been
recommended by Pincus in the first stage of the chronic falling
out  of the hair; tonics are,  however, often useful in this con-
dition.   When the scalp  is  pale  and  the hairs do not grow
long, further, in the infrequent cases  in  which the baldness 
Cosmetics.
161
begins with the rapid falling out of the hair, cinchona in tinc-
ture or salve form is good.  Although it is not proven that
quinine is absorbed by the unbroken skin, experience shows the
value of the application of quinine.   It  should, however, be
added that the favorable results are observed especially after
the use of preparations of the bark itself, which also contains
tannin.  A marked action of  the alkaloid when used alone is
seldom observed.   With pomades of quinine and quininae tan-
mis  the  effect  depends mostly  on the action of the fat, and
the peculiar action of the salt is seen only after energetic in-
unction with the pomade.  The alcoholic agents are indicated
in the hypersecretion of sebaceous matter  and  should not be
used long, since they cause the  hairs to break off.  The irri-
tants are rarely indicated; in  torpid falling out of  the hair,
with a loose and oily scalp, in alopecia areata, the tar prepa-
rations, ethereal oils, cantharides, and sabina may be used to
advantage.   The ethereal oils  and also oleum sabinae cause
headache when long used.  The latter lessens the rapidity of
the growth of  the hair, but increases the average life of the
hairs.   Balsamic and resinous  agents  make the hairs  less
brittle.  Care must be taken in adding glycerin to the agents
named; with the alcoholic agents and  alkalies which them-
selves make the  hair rough, the glycerin increases this effect
and is to be avoided.  When the scalp  is very raw and the
formation of crusts is  marked,  salves may be used in place
of the solutions  or  alternating with them.   Whether  the
agents of the last-named  group are of any value is  question-
able.  At any rate, besides the use of these the hair must be
rationally taken care of, as was stated in the beginning of this
section.
   From what has been said, it will be understood  that  the
following prescriptions are not all equally efficacious in in-
creasing the growth of the hair.

    IJ Sodii bicarb.,......3 iij.
      Ungt. emoll.,......3 iss.
   M.  S. Salve (Pincus).

   IJ Sodii bicarb.,......3 ss- 3 i.
      Aq. destil.,......§ vi.
   M.  S. Hair water (Pincus).
          11 
l62
Cosmetics.
   IJ Cort. quiniae reg.,.....3 hj.
   Digere e
      Spir.  vini rect.,       .....i iiiss.
   p. 3 dies; filtra; dein adde
      Spir.  sacchari opt.,.....3 ij-
      01. aeth.,.......q. s. ad odor.
   M.  S. Spirits of quinine for the hair.  After removing the
fat from the scalp with soaps or alkalies, this is to  be rubbed
on energetically three or four times.  The head should not  be
dried afterward.
   IJ Ext. quin. frig, parat.,.....3 iij-
      Quiniae muriat.,......3 i.
      Vini rubri optimi,......3 ss.
   Coque ad remanent.,.......i i.
      01. rusci,........3 hj.
      Tinct. malat. ferri,.....3 ss.
      Tinct. myrrhae,......3 i.
      Ungt. rosae,.......i iss.
   M. exactissime.  S. Hair pomade.

   IJ 01. macidis,
      01. terebinth.,
      01. amygd.,......aa \ ss.
   M.   S. Hair oil (for alopecia areata).

   IJ Tinct. formic,......i ij.
      Quiniae sulph.,......gr. xvi.
      Aq. coloniens.,......| i.
   M.   S. Spirits for the hair.

   IJ Quin. sulph.,......gr. xvi.
      Acid, acet.,
      Acid, carbol.,.....aa in, viij.
      Mixt. oleos. bals.,.....3 vi.
      Glycerini,.......3 i.
      01. ricini,.......f iiiss.     N
   M.   S.  Liquor trichopathicus (Hager).

   IJ Tinct. quiniae,......3 vi.
      01. sabinae,.......gtt. x.
      Spir. vini gall.,......3 iss.
   M.  S.  Spirits for the hair. 
Cosmetics.
 IJ  Tinct. gallar.,.......3 iij.
    Tinct. cantharid.,......3 Ss.
    Aq. coloniens.,......31.
 M.  S. Spirits for the hair.

 IJ  Acid, tannici,.....gr. xvi.- 3 i.
    Spir. vini rect.,.....q. s. ad solut.
    01. amygd.......\ iss.
 M.  S. Hair oil.

 IJ  Tinct. capsici,......| ss.
    Aq. coloniens.,......§ iiss.
 M.  S. Spirits for the hair (for alopecia areata).

 IJ  Tinct. hellebori albi,.....3 i.
      "   benzoini,......§ iss.
      "   myrrh.,......| ss.
    Spir. vini gall.,......3 viij.
 M.  S. Spirits for the hair.

 IJ  Bals. peruv.,.......3 ss.
    Ungt. pomadin.,......§ iij.
 M.  S. Hair pomade (Hebra).

 IJ  Tinct. hellebori,
    Tinct. canthar.,.....aa 3ij.
    Spir. vini rect.,......3* viij.
 M.  S. Spirits for the hair.

 IJ  Veratrin.,......gr. ij.-viij.
    Spir. vini gall.,.....% iv.
    Spir. lavandul.,
    Glycerini,.....aa  3 vi.
 M.  S. Spirits for the hair.

 IJ  Sol. hydrarg.  bichlor. (gr. viij. ad i v.),
    Glycerini,
    Spir. colon.,.....aa,  i iss.
M.  S. For  washing the head.

 IJ  01. sabinae,.......gtt.  xv.
    Spir. vini rect.,.....3 iss.
M.   S. Spirits for the hair (Pincus). 
164                      Cosmetics.
   IJ  Acid, salicyl.,......3 ss.
      Tinct. benzoini,......3ij-
      01. ped. tauri,.....ad  | iiiss.
   M.  S. To be rubbed into the scalp after the fat has been
removed.
   ^  Inf. frond, sabinae,  .     .    .     .  3 iij.: i hiss.
      Ext. quiniae frig, parat.,  .    .     .  3 i.
   M.  S. Hair water.

   IJ  Acid,  carbol.,......m xvi.
      Sulph. sublim.,......3 i.
      Adip. colli equini,   .     .    .        ad  \ iss.
      01. bergam.,......gtt. x.
   M.  S. Hair pomade (Lassar).
IJ  Pilocarpin. mur.,
   Quin. muriat.,
   Sulph. praec,
   Bals. peruviani, .
   Medull. bovin.,  .
M.  S. Hair pomade (Lassar).
 .  3 ss.
 .  3i.
 ■  3 hj.
 .  3 vi.
ad ? iiiss.
   The treatment of the falling out of the hair is tedious and
requires care and patience both on the  part of the physician
and on the part of the patient.  It must be methodically car-
ried out, and every agent  used must be carefully applied.  If
any result at all is to be obtained, it is only through the alter-
nation and combined employment of the various agents.
   It  is best to divide the treatment into three  periods.  In
the first the scalp is completely freed from grease, from crusts
and scales, by the use of soap, spiritus saponatus kalini or alka-
line solutions with or without the previous use of fats, accord-
ing to circumstances.  To wash  the scalp  with alkaline or al-
coholic solutions, the hair is parted  at different points with a
coarse comb (demeloir)  and the  fluid rubbed in for some
moments with a shaving-brush.  The evening is preferable for
this.  After the washing with soap the hair is to be  washed
with  a shower-bath, first with  warm, then with  cooler, and
finally cold  water.   It should be then  dried  and left for an
hour.   The soap treatment may be completed in  one or two
days; the alkaline treatment is continued two or three times a
week  for several weeks.  Following this comes the treatment 
Cosmetics.
165
with irritant, tonic, astringent, or specific agents, that is to say,
with the agents for increasing the growth of hair in general.
In simple or premature alopecia, these should be applied from
once to three times  a week with a soft brush  or  sponge;  in
alopecia areata they are to be rubbed in energetically with a
stiff brush and left to dry.
   Salves may be rubbed in either with a stiff  brush or with
the finger.   Quinine  and tannin preparations must always be
energetically rubbed in.  After the application  of alcoholic or
aqueous solutions of irritating substances,  fat  inunctions
should  be made, either with simple oil and pomade or with
preparations to which medicaments such as acidum salicyli-
cum have been added. Such inunctions may also  at times be
necessary in the course of irritant treatment, when the scalp
becomes rough, raw, and red.  During such treatment  and
also during the fat  treatment, soap washings  are to be em-
ployed once or twice a week.

                        Hair Dyes.

    Only the  free part of the hair outside the  follicle can  be
dyed.   In  the ordinary  methods  the  color  affects for the
most part only the epithelial layer of the hair.   In rarer cases
in which a coloring  matter has been a  considerable time in
contact with the  hair, a  staining of the cortical substances
occurs  bjT imbibition.  It is impossible to dye the hair from
the root outward in  any manner.  The color becomes less in-
tense after some time on account of the washing, combing, and
brushing of the hair.   For this reason and because of the new
growth of gray hair the dyeing process must be repeated from
time to time. As a  rule,  only gray or red hair is  dyed.  The
requisites of a good  dye are that it should be easy to apply,
that  the color should  be  natural, should  appear quickly and
should be durable, and that it should contain no injurious sub-
stances.  It  is difficult to fulfil all  these requirements, and it
cannot be said  that any one of the agents used does  this.
The most natural coloring is obtained by the use of black dyes,
although it is out of  the question  to try to get the peculiar
tone of bluish-black hair.   The middle colors, light brown and
blond, are much  less natural;  growing hair  is never  dyed
white.  Most agents cause a rapid coloring, yet many persons, 
166
Cosmetics.
in order to make the deception as great as possible, prefer a
gradual dyeing;  this is only undertaken with dark or semi-
dark hair.  A weak, gradually-appearing dark color is obtained
by using hair oils and certain animal fats, which  contain a
small quantity of sulphur or iron, such as  freshly  extracted
oil of eggs and neat's-foot oil.  It is commonly believed that
the former, if used soon enough, will prevent grayness.   Other
agents which form colored combinations with the acids of the
atmosphere or the sulphur of the hair, such as extract of nut
hulls, tannin, acidum pyrogallicum, and many  metals, espe-
cially in pomades or hair oils, cause a gradual darkening of the
hair.  Dilute acids when long employed make the hair lighter.
Mothers who wish to keep their children blond avoid  the use
of oil and wash their heads with vinegar, lemon juice,  or cam-
omile tea.
   No artificial hair dye is permanent in its effects in the sense
which the  laity believe, since the color gets weaker  as time
elapses  and the new growing hair, which has another color,
must be dyed in its turn.  The conditions being the same, the
dyeing with henna, lead, silver, and other metals is the most
permanent.
   The  vegetable and organic dyes are generally  innocent;
next to  these are iron and potassii permanganas; then copper,
bismuth, and potassii bichromas;  next  peroxide  of  hydrogen,
silver, and  finally lead.  The bad  effects are either local, caus-
ing the destruction  of the hair or skin, inflammation of the
eye, and nasal catarrh, or general, as in the case of lead, which
used  in the form of cosmetics  or  dyes  may produce a severe
intoxication. The local affections are produced by the organic
and metallic agents as well  as by the agents later to  be men-
tioned.
   The  organic  and vegetable hair-dyeing agents commonly
used are as follows:
   1. Fresh  walnut hulls.   The fresh juice and  the fresh
parenchyma of the hulls or of the unripe  nuts, color  light or
gray hair gradually  dark  brown.  The  coloring substance is
not known, but is probably a phloroglucide; it is extracted  by
means of fats and alcohol, but is not active in these solutions.
   2. Henna.  The leaves of the  Lawsonia inermis contain a
material belonging to the phloroglucides and soluble in w-ater,
which stains  the epidermis,  especially the horny  portion, 
Cosmetics.
167
orange-red; the color may be made darker by the use of alka-
lies, and maybe removed, though only with difficulty, by means
of acids.  All hair, even the naturally dark, is colored red by
henna.  In order to get the black color desired, the hair, after
being colored red by henna, must be treated with indigo.   The
color so obtained is  a beautiful black.
   The process is as follows: After the fat is removed from
the hair by means  of soap, single strands  of it  are smeared
with a paste made  of  henna powder and warm water.   The
hair is then left for an hour, after which  time  it  is washed
with warm water.   Ater being dried, it is smeared in a similar
manner with a paste prepared from indigo powder and water,
which after an hour  is washed off.   The hair which was colored
orange-red by the henna appears at this stage greenish-black,
and later, through the oxidation of the indigo, it becomes in-
tensely bluish-black. This dye is very permanent; it is months
before the hair requires redyeing.  According  to J. E. Polak,
to whom we owe the description of the dyeing methods used
in Persia, by the application of a paste consisting of one part
henna and  three parts indigo with water, the hair can be col-
ored any shade from light to dark chestnut-brown by varying
the length  of the period of application.  One hour is sufficient
for light brown, an hour and a half is required for dark brown.
According  to my experiments, which were made only on dead
gray hair, the tints obtained are not black, but more or less
brown, having no likeness to a natural color of the hair.
   Neither of these powders is injurious; according to the Per-
sians they even increase the growth of the hair.  Henna is a
drug which was employed as a medicinal agent in the earli-
est times, being used as an application for headache, etc.  It
is not difficult  to get; it may be had  in quantities, as I have
convinced myself, in the Egyptian bazaar  in Constantinople,
at a fairly  reasonable  price.  Both powders, when  dried and
protected from the air  and light, are very permanent.  I have
obtained an excellent dye with preparations twenty years old.
This is especially true of henna, which becomes red under the
influence of light—it is  originally yellowish-green—without
losing its coloring power.   Indigo is'readily injured by mois-
ture, and Polak recommends in place of it a mixture consisting
of— 
i68
Cosmetics.
      Indigo,
      Grape sugar,
      Pease-flour,.....aa, gr. viij.
      Aqua,........3 ij.

   Add yeast and put the mixture in a warm place.  When it
effervesces, the hair, previously colored  with  henna, ma}- be
brushed with this mixture and in this way a similar color be
obtained.  It is not possible to produce  a  blond  color of  the
hair by henna alone, as Alpinus  thought; the hair becomes
orange-red, which  possibly might be made paler by treating
it with an acid.
   The  scalp may be also colored red with henna, but since
this occurs only after intense and long-continued  application,
it ma3T easily be avoided.  The women of  the Orient, with a
taste quite incomprehensible to us, color their nails and finger-
tips and even the whole palms of the hands with henna.  The
manes and tails of the Turkish  and Bosnian horses are also
dyed red with henna.
   The  process requires at least half a day. It should be
stated that in case the hair is not redyed, the  color gradually
disappears and the most incredible tones appear, such as
bluish-violet, wine-red,  etc.  If the dyeing be not continued up
to old age, the individual must remain concealed for weeks or
only appear with the head covered.
   3.  An agent which colors the hair in a worse manner than
henna alone is curcuma, an alcoholic tincture  of which colors
the hair at once pale yellow.  The coloring  matter of curcuma
is turned brown by alkalies, for which reason the hair is to be
washed  with soda after the fat is removed. The  yellow color
is not that of  a natural blonde, and curcuma  is used only in
the theatre or in subdued lights.  It is used,  as  James says,
by individuals who wish to escape recognition.  The color can
be removed again by simple washing.
   4.  While treating of cosmetics a very simple and uninjuri-
ous agent was mentioned  which is used to darken the eye-
brows.  This is lampblack, which is prepared as a cerate with
wax and fats, or used as India ink, which is in reality nothing
but lampblack suspended with mucilage in rose water.  The
latter preparation is sold  as kohol (Piesse), teinture Chinoise.
Under this name kohol a finely-powdered antimonii sulphidum 
Cosmetics.
169
is used for blacking the brows and lashes by Egyptians  of
high and low condition.  The  use of this goes back to the
most ancient times.  An effect similar to that of the French
kohol is gotten by a number of agents, which are dark-colored
alkaline extracts of peat, etc.
   5. Acidum pyrogallicum is one of the organic agents which
is used alone and in  combination with metallic substances  or
alkalies.   The hair moistened with solutions of acidum pyro-
gallicum and the epidermis as well become dark gray or black
under the influence of air and light.  The color so obtained is
not pleasing, and appears  only in  the course of some days  or
possibly weeks.  With alkalies it causes a  brownish-black
color.  The color obtained by the use of acidum pyrogallicum
alone may be  fixed  with alkalies, and is then removed with
difficulty by water, but easily removed by dilute acids, vine-
gar, or lemon juice.  It is much more frequently employed  in
combination with metals.

                     Inorganic Dyes.

   1. Iron.  Various combinations of this agent are employed,
and even its internal use has been recommended for prema-
ture grajmess.   Soluble salts  of  iron alone  make the hair
darker by forming ferri sulphidum, but usually a second sub-
stance is added which is either sulphur or an agent like tannin
or acidum pyrogallicum, which form dark-colored combina-
tions with iron.  Pfaff  recommended a pomade composed  of
oil of egg which contains sulphur, and ferri lactas; Eble gave
ferri acetas with balsam sulphuris.   Besides  these, dyes are
used which contain a salt of  iron and tinctura gallarum or a
solution  of acidum pyrogallicum.  Any salt  of iron  may  be
used.  A combination  of ferri  sulphas  and acidum pyrogal-
licum may be recommended as simple and harmless; the same
may be said of mixtures containing salts of iron and copper.
Here belongs also  a Turkish hair dye.   For its production,
pounded galls  are roasted  with oil by which acidum pyrogal-
licum  is produced;  the mass so obtained is pulverized and
kneaded with water to a paste and dried over a fire.  To this
is added a powdered mixture of the oxides of copper and iron,
rasticopetra or rastik-yuzi; the paste is  to be kept in a moist
place, and small quantities of it rubbed into the hair with the 
170
Cosmetics.
fingers.  The paste is often  mixed with perfumed powders.
The color of the hair becomes a permanent and glossy black.
Stains on the skin from ink made with galls may be removed
by acids.
   2.  Manganese.  A solution of potassii permanganas is re-
duced by organic substances and forms a hyperoxide of man-
ganese.  Hair and skin are  colored an intense brown by a
concentrated solution  of this  salt.  The color is, however, not
permanent and must  be frequently renewed.   It is more per-
manent when the  hair has been previously moistened  with a
solution of hyposulphuret of soda.  When dead hair is treated
with  a concentrated  solution of potassii permanganas and
afterward with warm concentrated acidum oxalicum, it loses
its color and becomes white.   This decoloration does not take
place in living hair, as I have demonstrated on myself.   Stains
produced by manganese may be removed by washing them in
dilute acids.
   3.  Copper.  Salts of copper form dark brown combinations
with various substances.  Such substances are the solution of
potassii ferrocyanidum, sulphur in the form of the sulphy-
drate  of potassium or calcium,  and  acidum  pyrogallicum.
Of  the salts of copper, cupri  sulphas dissolved in ammonia is
most frequently employed, or, more rarely, cupri chloridum.
   The brown stains on the skin may be removed by the solu-
tion of potassii cyanidum.  The hair is dyed a fine brown by
these salts; agents which color the  hair  black have  often
added to them salts of copper, and the black then produced is
not of an inky tone, but brownish.  Other substances, such as
iron or nickel, are added to the copper solutions to make these
dye more darkly.
   4.  Lead.  All the salts of  lead turn black from the action
of the Irydrogen sulphide of the  atmosphere, which  forms
plumbi  sulphidum. Even the repeated combing of the hair
with a lead comb makes it darker; but the action of so small
a quantity of lead  is slight.  The action of all the salts of lead
is slow; if sulphur praecipitatum be added the process  is has-
tened; immediate coloring is only obtained, however, when the
hair, after being treated with the lead preparation, is exposed
to hydrogen sulphide, calcii sulphidum, etc.  The preparations
most employed are composed  of litharge mixed with calx viva,
sodii  sulphydras, or plumbi oxyhydras in  alkaline solution; 
                          Cosmetics.                      171

 plumbi acetas with calcii carbonas and calx viva, sulphur, sodii
 hyposulphis, and salts of  silver and bismuth; plumbi nitras,
 chloridum, hyposulphis, and carbonas.  The lead salts are used
 almost exclusively for coloring the  hair brown or black.  On
 account of their poisonous action, their sale is forbidden by
 law in Germany and Austria.
    5. Silver.  Argenti  nitras in the presence of organic sub-
 stances  and under the influence of light  is reduced;  black
 metallic silver separates in the form of granules.  This reduc-
 tion is produced much more quickly by acidum  pyrogallicum.
    With hydrogen sulphide, the silver salts give a black pre-
 cipitate  of argenti sulphidum.  Epidermis and hair become
 brown or  brownish-black  after being simply wet  with  silver
 solutions.   The color appears more quickly when  the hair is
 treated  previously  with acidum  pyrogallicum  or afterward
 with sulphydrate of sodium or potassium.   The color obtained
 by argenti nitras is very  permanent; if the hair  goes for  a
 long time  without redyeing, it takes on a greenish, then a red-
 dish tone.   This occurs also when the fat has not been entirely
 removed from the hair before the application of the dye.  By
 using an ammoniacal mixture of argenti chloridum and cupri
 sulphas, and with  this sodii sulphydras, a bright  reddish
 blonde color is obtained.  Argenti nitricum is applied in solu-
 tion with ammonia.  The  less ammonia there is present, the
 darker will be the color obtained.  Stains on the skin may be
 removed by  potassii  cyanidum, saturated  solution of potassii
 iodidum, or potassii ferrocyanidum.
    6. Cadmium.  The salts of cadmium  form  yellow com-
 pounds with sulphur.  If  the hair be moistened with cadmii
 sulphas and  then trearted with ammoniae sulphas in  solution,
 it takes on a yellow or blonde color.   If the cadmium predom-
 inate, the color is darker; if more ammonia be added, the color
 is lighter.  The skin is also colored yellow; the stains may be
 removed by acids.
    7. Chromium.  Acidum chromicum and the neutral and
 acid potassii chromas are reduced  by acidum pj'rogallicum.
 The product  is of dark, reddish-brown color.  Gray hair may
 be colored reddish-brown b}T means of this.  Acidum chromi-
 cum is very caustic and should be used only in dilute solution;
the acid potassii chromas has a similar action.   Care must be
taken in the employment of salts of  chromium, since the}7 are
poisonous. 
172                     Cosmetics.
   8. Hydrogen peroxidum.  Organic substances are bleached
by this.  Dark or red hair is colored reddish-yellow or blonde
by it.  The color, or rather the bleaching, does not come on at
once, but the agent need be reapplied but rarely.  Small spots
are made on the skin by this agent.  It exists only in aqueous
solution which must be fairly concentrated (15  to 20$).  The
solution retains always some acidum nitricum and decomposes
easily when exposed to the air and light, after which it cannot
be used.  Acidum nitricum alone gives a yellow color to epi-
thelium, which, before hydrogen  peroxide came into general
use, was strengthened by a solution of acidum picricum, which
also gives a yellow color.  The yellow obtained  in this way is
very different from the natural yellow of the hair.
   The mineral dyes are given  in the form of  pomades and
hair oils when a gradual dyeing is desired, in other  cases in
concentrated aqueous solution (5 to 20$).  The metallic salts
are given together with the coloring substances, such as sodii
hyposulphis and  sulphur, or  without these,  as  acidum pyro-
gallicum, tinctura gallarum, sodii  sulphydras.   This depends
partly on the necessity of their separation for  producing the
color, and parti}7 because certain mixtures, such as that of iron
and tannin, produce the color or precipitate in the bottle, and
this dye would then have little effect on the hair.  Many drugs
are added  to these mixtures which have no purpose whatso-
ever.  The mordant or precipitating agent  is often chosen at
will and from time to time replaced  by another agent.  The
different mixtures are usually given in separate bottles.  Even
when one mixture alone suffices for the production of the color,
the  necessary mixture for removing the fat is  given in a
second bottle. A third mixture is often given  for removing
the  stains that the dye leaves on the hands.  In  prescribing
dyes the purpose of each separate bottle should be clearly un-
derstood by the patient.  From what has been said, the reader
may compose the various  hair dyes  as he wishes, remember-
ing  only that the  solutions  are to be concentrated.  A per- "
fume is generally to be avoided.

    IJ  Acid, pyrogal.,......Tq, xvi.
       Spir. vini rect.,
       Aq. destil.,......aa 3 vi.
    M. S. Hair dye. 
                       Cosmetics.                       173

IJ Ferri sulph.,.......3 ss.
   Aq. destil.,.......3 v.
M.   S. No. I.

IJ Acid, pyrogallici,.....^ Xvi.
   Aq. coloniens.,......| iss.
M.   S. No. II.

IJ 01. ovor. ree press.,
   Medull. oss. bov.,  .     .     .    .    aa  3 i.
   Ferri lactic,......3 ss.
   01. cassiae aeth.,.....n[ xxiv.
M.   S. Pomade  (Pfaff).

^ Cupri sulph.,......gr. xxiv.
   Aq. destil.,......3 i.
   Ammon. p. liq.,.....q. s.
ad solut. sedim. enasc.
M. D. in vitr. coerul.  S.  No. I.

IJ Potassii ferrocyan.,.....3 i.
   Aq. destil.,.......q. s.
ad perf. solut.
M.   S. No. II.  Or,

IJ Calcii hydrosulph.,.....3 ss.
   Aq. destil.,.......3 iss.
M.   S. No. II. or acidum pyrogal. 1:50.
D. Teinture brune francaise.

IJ Bismuth, subnitr.,.....3 ss.
   Sodii subsulph.,......3 i.
   Aq. destil.,.......3 iss.
M.   S. Hair water.

IJ Bismuth, nitr.,......3 i.
   iErugin.,.......gr. xvi.
   01. amygd.,......q. s.
ut f. ter. mass, tenerr.
   Ungt. enroll.,......| i.
M.   S. Hair pomade (Neumann).
IJ Sodii hydrosulph.,......3 ss.
   Aq. destil.,.......3 iss.
M.   S. No. I. 
174                       Cosmetics.

   IJ Potassii hypermang.,    ....   gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.....         .   3 iss.
   M.   S. No. II.
   IJ Potassii oxalati,......3 ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 iss.
   M.   S. No. III.   For removing stains caused by the preced-
ing.
   IJ Argenti nitr.,.......3 ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 vi.
   D. in vitr. coerul.  S. No. I.
   IJ Potassii sulph.,......3ij.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 vi.
   M.   S. No.  II.
   IJ Potassii cyanati,......3 ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 vi.
   M.   S. No. III.   For removing stains—poison!

   IJ Acid, pyrogal.,......gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.......| ij.
   M.   S. No.  I.
   IJ Argenti nitr.,.......3 ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......| ss.
      Ammon. p. liq.,......q. s.
   ad solut. enase sedim.
   D. in vitr. coerul.  S. No. II.
   IJ Potassii iodidi,......| ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......§ i.
   M.   S. No. III.   For removing stains.
   IJ Argenti nitr.,
      Tartari depur.,.....aa,  gr. xvi.
      Ammon. p. liq.,......3 ss.
      Ungt. rosae,......| i.
   M.   S. Hair pomade.
   IJ Cadmii sulphat.,.....gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 ss.
   M.   S. No. I.

   IJ Solut. ammon. hydrosulphurati,     .    .  3 iss.
   M.   S. No. II.  Teinture blonde americaine. 
Cosmetics.
175
   IJ  Potassii bichrom.,......3 ss.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 vi.
   M.  S. No. I.  As No. II. use acidum pyrogal. as above.
   IJ  Solut. hydrogen, superoxid., 10-20$, .    .  3 iss.
   M.  S. Hair water.

   The application of  the hair dyes is very simple.   When
pomades or preparations of lead are employed—which  latter,
however, should not be used—the preceding removal of the fat
may be dispensed with.  In the latter case the fat should be
left, for the reason that the sulphur of the fat causes the for-
mation of plumbi sulphidum and thus the color.  In all other
cases, the hair is to be cleaned by means of a sponge or a soft
shaving-brush with a solution of soap 1 to 2$, or soda or am-
monia solution  1 to 2/c, and afterward washed with  warm
water.  The hair should then be carefully and quickly dried
by fanning and combed  with a coarse comb.  The color is
made better and more uniform by the thorough drying.  This
procedure need not be so carefully gone thorough  with, espe-
cially with the alkaline sulphides. The solution of the metallic
salts may be rubbed into  single strands of the hair from the
point  toward the root by means of a  soft tooth-brush.  The
thoroughly dried hair is then treated with the fixative  agent,
the mordant.   The hair is then left  to dry, and afterward
combed regularly to obtain a mixture of the various shades,
and finally greased to give it a gloss. In dyeing the beard
and the hair when it is short, it must be  thoroughly washed
with water in order to remove the  excess of the coloring or
fixing agent.  The hair should be redyed every eight  or  ten
weeks, the beard and  the mustache  every four weeks at least.
Most dyes produce stains on the skin and linen which are hard
to remove.  In order to avoid these it is well to put a rubber
or oil-cloth covering about the shoulders, to wear gloves, and
to oil  the face with glycerin or fat.
   Of the  injurious effects which I have myself observed, I
would mention pustular eczema following the use of ammoni-
ated cupri oxidum and acidum nitricum.  In  one case  I have
seen severe herpes conjunctivae appear at each dyeing of  the
hair with argenti nitricum in a man of sixty, and disappear
when  the use of the agents  was stopped or when it was re-
placed by potassii chromas. 
176
Cosmetics.
                      Depilatories.
   It is easier to destroy the hair than to replace it, and while
we possess but few agents which increase its growth, we have
a number of excellent agents for removing it.
   These act either mechanically or chemically.  The mechan-
ical procedures, apart from shaving, singeing, and  rubbing
with pumice-stone, are barbaric.  These are the tearing out
of the hair  by means of tightly-sticking plaster and the ex-
traction by means of broad-jawed forceps.  Of shaving it need
only be said that the soap used  beforehand has  a  chemical
action in softening and swelling  the hairs by means of the
alkali which it contains.  Singeing, practised in ancient times
by means of nut shells, is still employed  to-day on parts of the
skin which are not very sensitive  and which are covered with
coarse hairs; for example, the calves are singed with a candle
flame.  Rubbing with pumice-stone is  not done in  our  day.
The application of tightly-sticking plasters which  tear out
many of the hairs in their removal is very painful.   The ex-
traction by means of the forceps is still more  painful, and on
this account can only be repeated at long intervals.  The two
last methods have the disadvantage that not  all the hairs
can be removed at one sitting..
    This is easily obtained by using chemical agents.   At the
present  time sodii sulphydras, calcii sulphydras, and arsenici
sulphidum  are used for this purpose.  Potassii sulphidum is
seldom used because of its severe action on the skin, barii sul-
phidum  seldom because of  its weak action.                  (
    Sodii sulphydras is a salt readily soluble  in water, which
is obtained by passing sulphuretted hydrogen into soda lye.
    Calcii sulphydras is insoluble in water, and is  obtained by
 passing sulphuretted hydrogen into a preparation of freshly-
 slaked lime.  It is a greenish  jelly-like mass.  For a similar
 purpose other combinations of sulphur and lime may be used,
 such as the solutio Vlemingkx  and sulphuret of potassium
 with lime.  The latter has a weak action and only gives per-
 ceptible  results  when  mixed with slaked lime, while  the
 solutio Vlemingkx  irritates the skin severely  and produces
 often a dermatitis.
    Orpiment is a combination of sulphur and  arsenic found in
 nature which, mixed with caustic lime, is used as a depilatory. 
Cosmetics.
U7
    The action of the alkaline sulphides and of the calcii sul-
 phidum on epithelium is about the same as that of the caustic
 alkalies.  If hair, epidermis scales, or the like be treated with
 alkaline sulphides or with solutio Vlemingkx, they turn  in a
 short time into a soft gelatinous mass and partially lose their
 color.   If these be applied to the living hair the effect is the
 same, and the partially-destroyed hair may be easily brushed
 off.  The skin may also become swollen if the application be
 long continued, and  after the removal of the agent, appear
 dry, rough, and inflamed.  In the use of  arsenici  sulphidum,
 the chief part of the action is due  to the calcii sulphidum, since
 arsenici sulphidum is always mixed with caustic lime.   As the
 arsenici sulphidum  contains always acid combinations with
 arsenic, the action is also partly due to these, since they may
 cauterize the surface of the hair follicle.  The inflammatory
 irritation and cauterization of the interior of the follicle, which
 is caused in  less degree  by other chemically acting depila-
 tories, may occasionally cause a complete cure by destroying
 the follicle.
   The alkaline sulphides and the calcii sulphidum  are  sus-
 pended in water, or mixed to a paste with starch or lime water;
 orpiment is made into a similar paste with lime water or al-
 bumen.  The manner of their application will be seen in the
 following prescriptions:
    IJ Sodii hydr. sulph.,.....| iv.
   Solv. in aq. cale,......3" x.
      Cale hydr. pulv.,.....3 iiiss.
   Misce, dein sensim adde
      Amyli,........f i.
   M. f. pasta.
   IJ Solut. concentr. barii sulphurat.,    .    .  | iiiss.
      Amyli,......         .  q. s.
   ut f. pasta (Redwood).
   It is to be prepared  extempore, since the  agent readily de-
composes.
   IJ Cale caust. pulv.,......3 hj.
      Sodii hydr. sulph.,......3ij.
      Amyli,........3 hj.
   M. f. p.  Some of this  powder is to be rubbed to  a thin
paste (Boudet).
          12 
i78
Cosmetics.
   IJ  Barii sulphid.,......3 iij.
      Zinci oxid.,
      Amyl.,.......aa i ss.
   M.  S. To be mixed with water to a paste.

   IJ  Cale hydr. sulph. in aqua,     .    .     .3 vi.
      Ungt. glycerini,
      Amyli,.......aa 3ij.
      Essent.  citr.,......gtt. x.
   M.  S. To be spread one line thick on the parts from which
the hair is to be  removed, and after ten to thirty minutes
washed off (Reveil, Martius, Boettger).

   IJ  Sodii hydr. sulph.,......3 hj.
      Cret. praep.,.......3 i.
      Aq.,........q. s.
   ut f. pasta.
   S.  To be spread on  as thick as a knife-blade and  washed
off after some minutes.

   IJ  Cale hydrat.,.......i i.
      Orpiment pulv.,......3 i.
   M. exact.   S. To be mixed with  water to a  thin  paste
(Rhusma).

   IJ  Cale hydrat.,......\ iss.
      Orpiment,.......3 iij.
      Amyli,........§ i.
      Aq. cale,.......q. s.
   ut f. pasta mollis.
   S.  Paste (Neumann).

   IJ  Cale caust.  pulv.,......| i.
      Pulv. irid.,.......| ij.
      Orpiment,.......3 i.
   M.  S. Like the preceding (Debay).

   IJ  Cale viv.,......,   3 i.
      Gumm.  pulv.,.......§ ij.
      Orpiment,.......3 i.
   M.  S. Like the preceding (Delacroix). 
Cosmetics.
179
    IJ Cale ust.,.......3 ij.
      Orpiment,.......gr. xvi.
      Liq. potassii caust.,
      Album, ovor.,......q. s.
   ut f. pasta mollis.
   M.   S.  Depilatoire (Debay).

    IJ Orpiment,.......| ss.
      Cale viv.,.......| i.
   Coque e
      Liq. potas. caust.,.....§ xvi.
   M.   S.  Depilatory water (Debay).
    IJ Orpiment,.......gr. xvi.
      Amyli,.......3 hj.
      Cale vivae,.......§ ss.
   M.   S.  As above.

    IJ Orpiment,.......3 iiss.
      Sodii hydrosulph.,.....i iss.
   Coque c Aq.,.......q.  s.
      Cale hydrat.,......q.  s.
   ut f. pasta mollis.
   M.   S.  Paste.

   The preparation as well as the application of the remedies
employed  as  depilatories is very simple.  These agents are
mostly used in the form of soft pastes, which are either to be
prepared by the apothecary or made into a fine powder, which
immediately before using  is to be mixed  in water or other
fluids, such as potash lye, into a paste. They need seldom be
boiled.  The alkaline sulphides, as well as the calcii sulphidum,
have an unpleasant  odor of sulphuretted hydrogen.   This
odor is hard  to remove, and when a perfume is added, the
resultant odor is even worse than the original one.  However,
if a  penetrating odor be desired, essent. citri may be used.
The mixture with  iris flor. given above is not unpleasant.
   The  indications for use vary with the different authors and
the different preparations.   The pastes are applied in a layer
as thick as a knife-blade.  The waters are applied  until the
parts are quite wet.  The length of time for the application
of the alkalies of sulphur, barium, and calcium is from ten to
thirty minutes; for orpiment, two to five minutes.  Many of 
i8o
Cosmetics.
the pastes, such as the rhusma, are  left until dry.  The best
indication  is the feeling of the patient; as soon as the slight
itching which the application causes gives place to an intense
burning, the remedy is to be stopped;  if the remedy be applied
too long the skin becomes inflamed, and since it is robbed of
its epidermis in places, it appears spotted.  After the applica-
tion, the paste and the softened hair are  removed together by
means of a dull knife, a paper-knife, or spatula of ivory, bone,
or horn.  The skin is then to be carefully washed with warm
water, and since tender portions of the skin are always red-
dened and  inflamed by the procedure,  inunctions of almond  oil,
cold cream, or zinc salves should be made after the skin has
been thoroughly dried with cotton wool.  When  the hair is
dark, powder is to be applied after the inunction.
   The selection of the agent depends  on the locality from
which the hair is to be removed, on the sensibility of the skin,
and on the quality of the hair.  Boettger's depilatorium is  in-
dicated for the face, and in females, when soft, light hair is  to
be removed, since this remedy irritates least and acts so ener-
getically that its application need not be repeated for months.
The most severe in its action is orpiment  with lime, wdiether
in paste  or in decoction.  The latter  must be so strong that
when a feather is dipped into it the vanes fall off.  This agent,
if used at all, should be applied only to the less sensitive parts,
such as  the  arms and the lower portion of the  thigh, and
where the hairs are coarse, as  in the beard.
   All these depilatories are only palliative in their action; the
hair grows again  after  a longer or shorter time, and only
after repeated application of  the remedy  is atrophy of the
follicle produced, and thus complete healing secured.   This is
only to be gotten with  certainty by means  of electrolysis.

                          The Nails.

   The nails are spheroidal quadrilateral  plates, shield-formed,
and convex upward, which rest on the terminal phalanges of
the fingers and toes.   They are made up of horny epidermis
cells, in the superficial layers overlapping each other like tiles.
The nail is  implanted on three of its sides into a groove in the
skin, and projects, with its anterior border, be}7ond the finger-
tip.  The portion of the finger on which the nail rests is called 
Cosmetics.
181
the bed of the nail.  The portion of this bed further back be-
neath the root of the nail is called the matrix.  The body of
the nail is separated from the root by the lunula, a curved line
parallel to the outline of  the finger-tip, beneath which  the
root of the nail appears of a rose or milky white color, sharply
cut off from the red of the body of the nail.  The white color
is caused by the slighter transparency of this part of the nail,
which latter depends upon the unusual thickness of the root
and upon the regular arrangement of the cells in the mucous
layer at this  point (Toldt).  The  lunula is the boundary be-
tween  the part of the matrix having large papillae and  the
part toward the free edge of the nail with smaller  papillae.
According to H. Hebra, only the lateral and posterior portion
of the matrix deserves this name, since it alone has large pa-
pillae and may be regarded as concerned in the production of
the nail.  The nail becomes gradually thicker from its poste-
rior boundary up to the lunula; from this it continues forward
uniformly thick.  The bed of the  nail is richly supplied with
vessels and nerves.  The under surface of  the groove is cov-
ered with epidermis which extends somewhat over the surface
of the nail.
   The nails grow from behind forward, faster in summer
than in winter; in the course of a year about half a drachm
of nail  substance is produced.   The growth is slow, and sev-
eral weeks are required for the nail to be completely replaced.
If a nail be cut it grows  rapidly, but  beyond a certain length
it does not grow.
   The cells of the nail  substance are chemically  like  other
horny epidermis cells; they swell up in lye.  They are in gen-
eral very resistant to chemical processes, but are easily stained
by  certain agents.  These stains  can only be removed with
difficulty.  If the nails become unusually dry they get brittle;
if they take up water, as in bathing, in sucking the fingers, or
in excessive sweat secretion of the toes, they become soft.
   The beauty of the nail lies in its color, its curve, and its
length.  The  body of the  nail should be smooth, glossy, and
translucent, and  should  show a regular white crescent poste-
riorly.  Children from one black and one white parent show a
reddish-brown pigmentation of the lunula, and even in  quad-
roons this peculiarity throws light on the color of the progen-
itors.  The free margin  of the nail should be smooth, para- 
182
Cosmetics.
bolic, and extend as far as the finger pulp  itself, to which it
should serve as a protector.   If the nails are kept too short,
as in pianists or when  the individual has the habit of biting
the nails, the finger-tips become broad and  flat.  If  they are
worn too long they break off easily. The Chinese custom  of
wearing  the  nails long, signifying  that  the individual has
nothing to do, is inconvenient and ugly.   The groove and the
thick cutis should be regular as well as the epidermis covering
the root  of the nail, which latter should  not extend too far
outward on the nail.  Very  beautiful  finger-nails are much
rarer than beautiful hands:  they are usually  ruined by the
use of cosmetics.  While the present methods of covering the
feet remain in use, no beauty  can be expected in the toe-nails.
If the nails are not beautiful  by nature, they may at least be
kept clean and pure.
   The cosmetic treatment of the healthy nails is a proper hy-
gienic care of them.  The cutting is best done with blunt scis-
sors curved on the flat.  The  edges  at the sides are not to be
cut in too deeply, since in the first place  it looks ugly and in
the second it permits the growing-in of the nail.
   For this reason and since experience teaches that the nail
cut on the sides grows fastest, the nail of the great toe should
be cut squarely across or concavely, differing thus from the
other nails, which should be cut in a parabolic line. If the cut
surface be not altogether smooth, it should be made so with a
file.
   In the space under the nail in the hands of persons who do
nothing, even  in those who wear gloves the whole day, and of
course much  more in  laborers, a yellow-gray  or black dirt
collects, composed of epidermis scales, dust, fat, etc.   The re-
moval of this dirt is a consideration of beauty,  of cleanliness,
and of hygiene in many cases, such as  in the  finger-nails  of
physicians.  If the cleaning be not too long delayed, soap and
water  applied with a brush will accomplish it  except in the
case of blood.
   At times  the  dirt  must  first be removed  with  a blunt-
pointed instrument.  The common nail-files of  steel or ivory
are not good, since they often  wound the epidermis lying under
the free margin of the nail.  A blunt-pointed flexible stick is
the best.  After the nail  has been cut, cleaned, and washed,
the epidermis should be pushed back on the root of the nail by 
Cosmetics.
183
means of the spatula and of the nail-file.  The ordinary steel
nail-files are bad here also, since they often cut and tear the
epidermis.
   An ivory spatula or the finger-nail is  better adapted for
this  procedure.  Various agents are recommended to make
the nails smooth, rosy, and glossy.  The simplest method  is
rubbing the nail with  lemon juice, vinegar, or dilute mineral
acids.  All these, and especially the lemon juice, have the effect
desired; it should, however, be  remarked that these agents
dry the surrounding skin, wrinkle it, and produce erosions, etc.
Besides these are employed the softening  agents used for the
hands, mostly in the form of pastes, such as almond and honey
pastes.
   A prescription for these would be

   IJ Farin. amygd. decort.,   .     .    .    .    •  i i.
      Mellis rosati,.......q. s.
   ut f. pasta mollis.

   The direct polishing agents are emery, a fine granular form
of corundum, cinnabar, and oxide of tin powder, varying ac-
cording to the method  of  its manufacture from a white gran-
ular, amorphous powder to a crystalline or a brownish-yellow
amorphous powder.  The use of emery as a polishing agent is
well known; oxide of tin is used for polishing tortoise shell or
even marble.  The two former are used in the form of pastes,
the oxide  of tin as a powder.   The white oxide of tin  often
scratches the nail in place of  polishing it.   Since this depends
upon the  coarseness of  the powder, it should  be previously
sifted.  If  very tender nails are scratched by the white or
the yellow powdered oxide of  tin, this may be mixed  with
twenty to thirty per cent of  talc, venet.  I prefer the yellow
oxide of tin.

   IJ Lapid. smiridis pulv.,
      Cinnabar factit. subt. pulv.,.    .        aa 3 iij.
      01. amygd. dulc,
      01. adorat.,......aa q. s.
   ut f. pasta mollis (Tromsdorff, 1804).
   S. The nails are to be covered with this paste after washing
before going to bed, and it is to be rubbed off in the morning
with doeskin and almond paste. 
184
Cosmetics.
   IJ Stanni oxidati laevigati,    .    .    .    .   3 iij.
      Essent. lavandul.,
      Carmino tinct.,   .     .    .    . q. s. ad. odorat.
   M.  S. After washing, the nail is  to  be rubbed with this
powder by means of the fingers, doeskin, or a polissoir.  The
latter is a bit of wood, ivory, or the like covered with leather.

   The nails become diseased in various ways.  They are af-
fected in consequence of a number of general diseases, syphilis,
scrofulosis, etc.; and after skin diseases like psoriasis,  eczema,
lichen  ruber, etc  Besides this, abnormalities in size, thick-
ness, and color are found which come within our scope.
   A beautiful rose color of the nails (poSoSdxruXus '//co?—rosy-
fingered dawn)  is rare.  New-grown nails after a trauma are
often cheesy-white  or brown; with the  change in  color the
gloss disappears.  I have seen cases where all the nails, with-
out any apparent disease, became reddish-brown and furrowed
longitudinally, and this appearance was permanent.'  In such
cases all treatment is useless.  A new-growing nail  is often
helped wonderfully by covering it with white wax.  Subungual
hemorrhages, which often occur from pressure and punctured
wounds, need no special treatment.  The  bluish-black spot ex-
tends forward with  the growing nail and is cut off with the
nail when it reaches the free margin.
   White spots are often found in the body of the nail; these
probably owe their existence to an anomalous secretion of the
corium.  They vary from  the size of a pin-point to that of a
poppy-seed.   Often, however, a number of these spots coalesce
and form a figure of irregular outline.  I am not able to say
what causes them; they appear at times  periodically, often on
all the finger-nails, sometimes only on a single nail.  These
spots also extend forward as the nail grows, and are finally
cut off.  Various remedies have been recommended for their
removal, as for example:

   IJ Picis,
      Terebinth.,......aa  § ss.
      Sal. culin.,
      Potassii sulph.,.....aa  3 ij.
      Aceti,........3 iiss.
   M.  S. The nail is to be covered with this. 
Cosmetics.
185
   As far as I know, all remedies are useless in this condition.
   An important anomaly which concerns as well the size as
the shape of the nail is the hypertrophy called onychia, ony-
chographosis, onychauxesis.
   We shall not consider here those cases due to general dis-
eases or to affections of the skin, and there remain only those
cases in which the hypertrophy is due to a congenital deform-
ity or to trauma.  A nail of this sort,  if not  cut, grows to
many times its normal  length and is bent once or more times
at its end.   Often  the nail is thin and very brittle, or it may
increase in breadth in place of length and many layers of nail
substance lie superimposed, so  that  the  nail stands obliquely
or almost perpendicularly upward.  The layers  may also be
irregular and the nail thus be bossy, or there may be hollows
and longitudinal and transverse furrows.  The nail may only
increase in its lateral diameter, and in the course of this an in-
flammation of the bed  of  the nail, paronychia, come on.  In
chronic  forms  the papillae of the matrix increase also, and
when the nail is cut these  bleed.  These diseases affect more
frequently the toe-nails, and chiefly in consequence of  trauma
caused by improper shoes or in consequence of acquired or
congenital twisting of the toes so that one overlies the other.
The hypertrophy in breadth affects most frequently the nail of
the great toe, which is, therefore, the  one most frequently af-
fected with paronychia, ingrowing nail.   In the idiopathic dis-
eases of the nails treatment is frequently of service.  Grypho-
tic nails are often cast off spontaneously and the new nail
may be  sound.   Cutting the nail deeply and cauterizing the
bleeding papillae often does good.  When the nail is abnormally
thick it  may be scraped with a bit of glass or  filed and then
be cauterized, or applications of potash lye or soap made, or
the nail be enveloped in emplast. diachyli, hydrarg.
   Here belongs also the frequent superficial wounding of the
skin in the  neighborhood of the  groove for the  nail.  These
shallow but often painful  splits in the skin, called hangnails,
are usually due to improper hygienic measures.  When the
epidermis is not pushed  back for  some time, the  surrounding
skin is stretched and tense, or it tears into little flaps which
at one end  still adhere to the epidermis.  Many individuals
are especially disposed to this.  These wounds, though slight,
may be a  source of  infection in the hands of physicians and 
186
Cosmetics.
mid wives; careful attention to the nails  is the prophylactic
treatment.
   Ingrown nails deserve a special notice.  For the cure of
this painful  affection surgical procedures have been resorted
to, such as the tearing or cutting out of the nail, which are so
painful that usually they must be done under narcosis.  In
place of this, simpler and less painful measures may be used,
which, especially in the beginning of the  affection, are easily
carried out  and are followed by good results.  The simplest
treatment is to  introduce charpie bit by bit under the  edge
of the nail by means of a sound and retain it in position by
means of  adhesive plaster.  This dressing should be renewed
daily; the ulcer  at  the margin heals either by itself or after
being cauterized.  This latter may be dispensed with and the
healing hastened by  adding plumbum subnitricum to the
charpie.  This is a dry powder which has a weak caustic action,
producing a dry eschar.  Lately, enveloping the nail in tin-
foil and raising it from its bed by means of this has been rec-
ommended.   After it is once cured, care must be  taken to cut
the nail always square across or slightly concavely. 
CHAPTEE IT.
                      THE  MOUTH.

   The lips, the teeth, the gums, and in certain cases the cavity
of the mouth also require cosmetic consideration.
   The  lips are two horizontal, very movable folds which sur-
round the fissure of  the mouth and on whose margin the ex-
ternal skin passes over into mucous membrane.  The red part
of the lips, though in reality belonging to the  mucous  mem-
brane, retains in its outer portion some of the characteristics
of the skin; it is dry, with a peculiar  gloss, since it contains
sebaceous glands, and is covered with  an epithelium which is
dry from the action  of external influences and which, in  the
normal  condition, cannot be seen to exfoliate.  The  beauty of
the lips consists in the outline  of the margin, in  the  regular
swelling of their tissue, and in the freshness of  their color, as
well as  in the gloss of the red portion  of the lip, which is  not
visibly moist nor yet altogether dry.  The lips are connected
with the gums by means of a fold of mucous membrane,  the
frenulum;  a too deep and  broad attachment of this band to
the upper lip makes  the opening of the mouth appear divided
into two portions when it is drawn laterally, as in smiling or
laughing.
   The  gum, gingiva, is  the mucous membrane inclosing  the
neck of  the teeth.  The beauty of the gum depends on its firm-
ness, its regular contour—the pyramids formed between two
teeth must not be too prominent and the boundary line of  the
gum must form a delicate, wavy line;  finally on  the  redness
and also on the purity of the gum.
   The teeth are hard, bone-like bodies set into the upper and
lower jaws, running in  the  normal condition  in a  regular
curved line.   The number is  not constant, but on an average
perhaps twenty-eight. Three portions  of the tooth are recog-
nized, the crown, the most important part from our point of
view; the neck, which is  inclosed by the  gum; and  the  root, 
i88
Cosmetics.
lying in a corresponding hollow of the jaw.  The most import-
ant teeth cosmetically are the four incisors, the two canines,
and the first bicuspids of either  jaw, since these are the ones
which usually are visible when the mouth is opened.  The
other teeth are of importance in another way,  since they help
to produce the roundness and  fulness of the face and the ten-
sion of the cheeks.  The  enamel which covers  the crown is of
greater interest to us than the  dentine or bone of  the tooth
which forms its proper  body, and the cement which covers
the outer surface of the root.  The  hard and brittle enamel
covers the crown like a cap, becoming thinner toward the neck
and ceasing with a sharp border.  The surface of the enamel
is covered by a thin, homogeneous, structureless membrane,
the enamel skin. The color of the teeth is yellowish-white.
To be beautiful, the number of the teeth must be complete;
there must be no cavities between the teeth,  and they must
be normally placed.  The individual teeth must not be turned
on their axis, but must stand  straight.  The surface must be
smooth, shining, and not partially covered with tartar.  Al-
though the normal  color should  be yellowish-white, a clearer
milky-white or a color with a trace of gray is not undesirable.
   Finally, the cavity of  the mouth should exhibit no stringy
saliva when opened, and the breath should be entirely odorless.
i   The cosmetic errors of the lips are those  of color, form,
and condition of the epidermis.   The lips may be too  broad
and too much arched, or  on the other hand too thin and nar-
row.  Against too broad and too prominent lips (negro lips)
the ars fucatrix is powerless.  Bad outlines in  the  lips may,
however, be corrected by a line or a point of paint at the angle
of the mouth, so that a small mouth will appear larger and a
mouth with  the corners  drawn down may be  made to look
smiling.  In rare cases, bathing the lips with tannin mixtures
and other astringents or cerates of this sort will accomplish
something.  Swelling and too large lips are not a great fault.
Small and drawn-in lips which have  taken on  this form after
frequent pinching of the  lips together and  drawing-in of the
mouth, may be improved by frequent sucking and by applica-
tions of irritants such as Spanish pepper or mustard.  I would
recommend, however, neither the one procedure nor the other.
The only purpose of the lip paints is to make the lips appear
broader, and for this a stroke half a line  broad is  sufficient. 
Cosmetics.
189
Colorless, faded lips can scarcely be restored except in cases
where this condition is due to severe general disease, and here
the natural tendency to convalescence, and the remedies suita-
ble for the general  disease may cause an improvement.  A
favorable prognosis may be made in those cases caused by a
transient atony of the muscles and anaemia, while those caused
by debilitating diseases and excess in venery are often  incur-
able and require lip paints.
   A very important error is the  chapping- of the lips.  In
many individuals of either sex  the epithelium comes  off in
larger or smaller scales without  an apparent cause.  In many
cases this is due no doubt to atmospheric  influences, in others
to the influence of irritants such as tobacco and sharp spices,
but besides  these there are a number of  cases—perhaps the
majority—in which no cause can be discovered.  The lips are
pale and  covered with smaller  or larger partially-attached
scales, or they are red and appear dusty from the presence of
the scales; in many places the surface  is  eroded and suffused
with blood, in others covered  by a reddish-brown crust.  In
the middle of the upper and  lower lip, more rarely in other
positions, the erosions cause deep rhagades which bleed readily
and are cured with  difficulty.   If these last  for a long time,
as they commonly do, the lips become  thick and  the cure is
more difficult.  The duration of the affection when it is  caused
by external  influences is  from two to three weeks; in  many
cases it lasts for months or years, or recurs after being healed,
so that a chronic chapping of  the  lips may be  spoken  of.  In
many cases  a herpes  labialis may be  the immediate  cause.
These rhagades are to be distinguished from  the sore spots
at the angles of the mouth.   These also have a twofold man-
ner of development.  The most frequent  is by an eczema, which
in children especially is moistened by the saliva dribbling from
the half-opened mouth, and continuously irritated in this man-
ner leads to excoriations  at the exterior  angle of the  mouth
and later to the formation of deep  rhagades.   In  other cases
there is first  a superficial fissure at the interior angle, which
by being torn wider leads, especially when neglected, to the
formation of a rhagade.
   We should also mention an actual dermatitis, herpes labia-
lis. This is  the familiar form of  herpes in  which  one or
more groups of vesicles unsymmetrically  arranged appear on 
190
Cosmetics.
the lips, generally with febrile symptoms or accompanying
acute febrile diseases.  Left to themselves, the vesicles dry in
two or three days to a yellowish or reddish brown crust, which
falls off several  days later; the underlying skin appears nor-
mal.
   The treatment of chapped lips consists in avoiding the in-
jurious influences mentioned and in the application of one of
the cerates or salves given below. The chronically-chapped
lips are annoying to both patient and physician.  The first
precaution is to see that the epithelial flaps are not bitten off,
since the tearing so produced leads to excoriations.  If these
be present, a  salve  containing acidum salicylicum, or better
acidum boricum, should be used.  This is not merely to be
used at night, but the lips are to be covered with the salve
during the day when they are more exposed to atmospheric
influences.  Lip  salves and cerates are to be made only from
pure unrancid fats.  The  use of  aqueous or alcoholic  fluids is
not to be recommended.  Glycerin even when diluted is espe-
cially harmful; it not only causes pain, but delays the healing.
For rhagades a simple covering plaster  may be  applied by
which the edges of the wound  are approximated; in  many
cases, even where syphilis does not exist, mercurial plaster
mull has acted very well for me;  cauterization  with  argenti
nitras is only occasionally necessary.
   The rhagades at the angles of the mouth require merely
cleanliness; they may, however, be covered  by a  protecting
plaster or with a pomade.
   Herpes labialis also needs no treatment.  As long as the
vesicles exist a cosmetic powder may be applied.  After they
dry nothing need be done for them, except to caution the pa-
tient against the use of sticking-plaster, which irritates, tears
off the crusts, and leads to excoriations.
   U  01. amygd.,.......3 hj.
   Digere c.
      Rad. alkann.,.......3 i.
   Cola, adde
      Cerae alb.,.......| ij.
      Spermaceti,.......3 hj.
      01. bergam.,
      01. citri,.......    M 3i.
   M.  S. Ceratum labiale rubrum (German Pharm.). 
Cosmetics.
191
IJ Cera? alb.,
   Spermaceti,
   Ol. amygd. d.,.....aa p. ae.
M.  S. Spermaceti cerate (Austrian Pharm.).
vi.
   IJ  Cerae alb.,......
      01. amygd.,......
      Carmini,.......g-r. iss.
      01. rosae,.......g-tt. ij.
   M.   S.  Ceratum  rosatum.   Pommade  pour  les levres
(French Pharm.).
5
M.
U
M.
Acid, borici,
Cerae alb.,    ....
Spermaceti,
01. amygd. e alkannin tinct.,
 S. Boric acid lip pomade.
01. rosat., .
Spermaceti,
Cerae alb., .
Rad. alkann.
01. rosae,  .
 S. Rose lip pomade (Piesse)
aa 3	iss
aa 3 hj.	
ii.	
3ij.	
3ij.	
3 ij-	
gtt.	XV.
   The cosmetic errors of the gums do not depend on general
or local diseases.   They need be treated of here only in so far
as they may be removed by hygienic care, which is at the same
time the best cosmetic.  The laxness  of the gum, a looseness
of its tissue, may be called idiopathic, and frequently gives rise
to other more severe diseases.  Such a gum is either very pale
and anaemic or redder than normal, relaxed, loose, and sponge-
like, here and there puffy, and bleeding on  the slightest provo-
cation.   The treatment of this condition will be spoken of later,
since it can scarcely be separated from the cosmetic treatment
of the teeth.
   The teeth are  the most worthy object of cosmetic treat-
ment.  Fine teeth and  fine  feet are the  chief attributes of
human beauty, and although a beautiful female mouth is the
essence of all that is charming, even an ugly mouth may be
beautified by a smile which discloses a pearly row of teeth.
Perfect  teeth are  unfortunately as  rare  as  perfect  dia-
monds.  No department of cosmetics is in such good hands 
192
Cosmetics.
as that department which concerns the teeth.  Medical  sci-
ence and technical skill have united to correct their frequent
faults.  This is not done  altogether  for  aesthetic reasons,
since the teeth  have a very important  function to perform in
the process of digestion.  The diseases of the teeth are many;
the greater part, and caries in particular, demand  the special
assistance of the dentist, who stops cavities in their substance,
removes those  which are  altogether bad, and replaces  them
by  artificial ones.  Even this  important department of cos-
metics has rapidly improved in late  years, although it was
known even to  the  ancient Egyptians.  Apart from  the dis-
eases and the substitution of the teeth, the incrustations on
the teeth and their bad color remain for us to consider.
   By incrustations we understand deposits on the teeth of
different varieties and  colors,  which have  a varying consist-
ence and require, therefore, different methods  for removal.
The chief ingredient is calcii phosphas, with which  are mixed
calcii carbonas, magnesii  phosphas, and organic substances.
The material is often hard  and is only found  in mouths hav-
ing alkaline saliva; if the calcium salts be wanting entirely or
in great part, it is soft and pasty, as in children.  The soft
form is found only where the saliva is acid.  The hard, mostly
brown or black deposits  are found in men and especially in
smokers; the soft, yellow or white colored deposits are  found
mostly in young women.  Besides these, deposits of green,
brown, and other colors have been described which depend in
part on the presence  of  a microbe,  the leptothrix buccalis.
The deposits appear first on concealed portions of the inner
surface of the front teeth  and on the  outer surface of  the
molars.  Later the extent  may become greater, and  under
some circumstances a whole row of teeth may be covered by
it, so that they have the appearance  of a single giant  tooth
(m. cur. dentatus).   Only  the soft  deposits may be removed
by the proper  care of the  mouth; the hard forms and  the
green incrustations require the instrumental interference of
the dentist, and so shall not be treated of here.
    In regard to the color of the teeth, it must be remembered
that not only  the yellow, but also the yellowish-white, the
bluish-white, and the mottled  teeth may be normal, and that
the norm does not always correspond to what we consider the
beautiful.  The bluish-white teeth are by far the most beauti-
ful, but in quality they occupy the third place. 
Cosmetics.
193
   Besides this principal color, a  number of tints  may be
found.  These latter may often be altered by proper chemical
agents.  This is not to be practised as a rule, since the teeth
are injured by it.  Other colors  appear on  single teeth or
groups in consequence of diseases.   These are called discolor-
ations.  The diseases which  cause  them are chiefly those of
the pulp;  temporary  discolorations may  also be caused by
caries and some filling materials.   Discoloration may also be
found in general diseases. When the color is not due to the
shining through of the filling, it depends on the coloring mat-
ter of the blood, or rather on bodies which owe  their tint to
the pure  or  altered coloring matter of the blood.  Just as
these under the skin give rise to all  the tones from light red
through yellow to blue or brown, they may produce the same
effect in the  teeth; there are a whole series of discolorations,
of which the most frequent are light and dark red, blue, and
dark  gray.  To cause these  discolorations to disappear  is a
difficult task for the dentist.   This is usually secured by filling
the cavity with proper chemical agents  and then stopping it
with  gutta-percha.  All bleaching matters, such as chlorine
and acidum  sulphuricum, may  be used;  unfortunately, how-
ever,  the effect is rarely  all that could be desired.
   Caries  of the teeth,  which will not be spoken of  further
here,  is usually considered the  cause of foetor  ex ore.  The
breath should have normally no odor, or when such is present
it should  only be that of the individual, and  not the odor of
carrion or of spoiled eggs.  When a number of the teeth are
extensively carious, the collections of necrotic  tissue in the
cavities may give the breath a foul odor.  This is more often
the case with particles of food which remain in the mouth. It
should not be forgotten that there  are also a number of other
processes which may give rise to the foetor.  Dyspepsia and
various other  diseases of the stomach, especially carcinoma,
as well as diseases of the mouth, nose, and pharynx, have the
same effect.   Many forms of ozaena  which are localized  in a
small portion of the nasal mucous membrane are not recog-
nized, and the foetor is referred  to  another cause.  Hypertro-
phy of the tonsils  when the surface contains lacunae which
may give lodgment to particles of food may produce a very
repulsive  odor. Not less disagreeable is that car-sed by'the
plugs in the  glands in follicular tonsillitis.  Various diseases
          13 
194                     Cosmetics.
of the gums and anomalous secretion and anomalous compo-
sition of the saliva may cause a foetid  breath.  Simple toxic
salivation is not so instrumental in causing this as the accom-
panying stomatitis and hypersecretion of saliva  where it re-
mains in the mouth, and the peculiarly viscid, tenacious saliva
which shows itself in mucous bands stretching from lip to lip
when the mouth is opened.  This latter, as well as  the diseases
of the tonsils, pharynx, nose, and mouth, and more rarely the
teeth, are  proper objects  for therapeutic treatment and espe-
cially for  cosmetic  The foetor caused  by other diseases can
only be removed by treating the disease, and then not in every
case. Often the  odor  is but temporary; many women have
during the menses a bad breath, which  disappears in a few
days.  At any rate the cause of the  foetor must  be searched
for, and in many cases something may  be accomplished in the
matter of improving it.
   The beginning of the cosmetic treatment is the exact car-
rying out  of the hygienic treatment,  and this reduces itself in
healthy individuals with  normal mouths  to the simple care of
the mouth.
   First of all the mouth and the pharynx are to be washed out
before  the cleaning of the  teeth  takes place.  This washing
out is in most cases improperly done.  To wash out the mouth
thoroughly, it must be done in three steps. First,  the pharynx
and the tonsils are to be washed.  To accomplish this the head
should be thrown back, and while the mouth is kept open the
first act  of swallowing is performed and the  water  then
ejected.   Gargling is of no service.  After the posterior cavity
of the mouth has been freed from mucus by the procedure de-
scribed, the middle cavity, limited behind by the  soft palate,
before by the teeth, is to be washed by  bending  the head to
one side after the other.   Lastly, the anterior cavity between
the teeth  and the lips is washed out.  Here, in order to cleanse
well the interstices between the single teeth, it should be rec-
ommended to force the water back and forth  through the
closed teeth by alternately contracting and relaxing the mus-
cles of the cheeks and lips.  The composition of the  water used is
of little importance when the mouth  is healthy, providing only
that directly injurious agents be not used.  As a rule, simple
water is  sufficient, which  to suit the  taste of the individual
may be flavored  with any ethereal oil, or better with an alco- 
Cosmetics.
195
holic solution of an ethereal oil.  The temperature of the mouth
water is of much greater importance.  The laity believe in the
virtue  of very cold water, but it is better to use a tempera-
ture which is pleasant to the mouth.
   In the simple washing of the mouth only the loose particles
of food and mucus are removed; those between or on the teeth
remain.  In order to remove these latter the finger alone or en-
veloped in a bit of linen may be used.  This procedure is worse
than the simple washing, since soft deposits on the  teeth and
mucus are rubbed over  the surface of the teeth and even
pressed into  the  interspaces. The teeth, as a rule, are thor-
oughly cleaned by means of a tooth-brush.  Many individuals
do not require this.  Those  are such as have teeth  very close
together and such as only take  hard articles of food, which
act as  a cleansing agent for the teeth.   Apart from laborers
and peasants, brandy-drinkers have, as  a rule, fine teeth;  in
these persons the alcohol acts as a cleansing and disinfecting
agent.  Persons in better circumstances and the inhabitants
of cities in general require the tooth-brush more, since they
eat softer food.  The form of the brush is of no importance,
but the breadth and  the hardness is.  The  laity believe that
hard brushes are injurious, since the gum is often torn by them.
In general hard  brushes should be used where the gums are
normal;  for  milk teeth, or  those with white  enamel, softer
brushes may be used.  One may become accustomed  to hard
brushes, and gradually  go over  to  such.  If the gum bleed
when the  teeth are brushed, this indicates disease of the gum,
hyperaemia, loosening, or inflammation.   The energetic brush-
ing of the gum  is the best therapy for it, since under this
treatment it becomes harder and more solid.  For this reason
narrow brushes should not be used, since they do  not touch
the gums.  Besides this, they have the disadvantage that they
wound the gums easily, since they do not completely fill out
the canal and  may readily be  misdirected.   The  hardest
brushes are made of pig bristles, medium hard of the bristles
of  young pigs, and soft of horse  or badger hair.  Four rows
of  bristles should be used  by adults and two or three by chil-
dren.  Tooth-brushes are also generally improperly used.  The
brush  is rubbed horizontally back and forth, and the individ-
ual believes that this is all that is necessary.  In this way the
deposits between the  teeth are left.   The teeth  should be 
196
Cosmetics.
brushed first in a vertical direction, those of the upper  jaw
from above downward, those of the lower jaw from below up-
ward, and then brushed horizontally.  The grinding surface
should next be brushed and finally the posterior surface.
   The mouth should be cleaned at least twice a day, morn-
ing and evening; more frequent washing, however, after the
meals and after smoking is advantageous.  After the clean-
ing of  the mouth and teeth comes the use of the tooth-pick.
This procedure although disagreeable to the beholder, is cer-
tainly good and even necessary for most persons.  The laity
err for the most part in believing the use of the tooth-pick to
be unhealthy; while for removing particles of food it  serves
not only a cosmetic purpose, but a hygienic one as well.  The
tooth-pick should be made of elastic wood, or tortoise-shell
which  is not too hard, or ivory; a pointed quill  answers the
same purpose.  If the picking the teeth with steel instruments
or with a fork or needle be condemned, it is chiefly because
wounds may  easily  be produced in this way.
   The number of cosmetics used in the mouth is very great.
Many  of these act  excellently, many indifferently, and many
in a harmful  manner.  The indications for and the manner of
employment  of various drugs will be  given here, although it
should be said that the cosmetic care  of  the mouth, since
mostly mechanical, must consist  principally  in the  use of
great  quantities  of fluid, mostly pure water, and the  brush.
When other medicinal agents are used this should be but rarely,
as at intervals of from one to two weeks, or only when abso-
lutely  required, as in the case of most deodorizing agents.


                  Neutralizing Agents.

                    Acids and Alkalies.

   The acids act as moderate astringents on  the mucous
membrane, and as neutralizers of the alkaline saliva.   If con-
centrated acids be long used they may attack the enamel and
so give rise to caries.  The acids have also some disinfecting
property, although  they would hardly be employed for this
purpose.  And for neutralization even they need be but rarely
and temporarily employed.  Of these  should be mentioned
acidum hvdrochloricum, phosphoricum, oxalicum, and lacti-
# 
Cosmetics.
197
cum.  Acidum oxalicum would hardly be used on account of
its acid  properties, but  rather  on account of its bleaching
properties, if it were not to be avoided altogether on account
of its poisonousness.  The acids are usually prescribed in from
two to four per cent, solution and their injurious nature called
attention to.
   The use of alkalies is more often  indicated than the use of
acids, and the former are given in solution or in the form of
tooth powders.  In the flrst  case they have only the purpose
of neutralizing the acid saliva; in the second they act as  a
mechanical cleansing agent.  In  powder  or in concentrated
solution they may finally extract the fat present in the teeth,
as is shown by the fact that teeth naturally yellow become as
white when alkaline tooth powder is used as if they had been
soaked in ether.  Caustic and carbonate alkalies can do harm
by loosening the epidermis.
   IJ Acid, phosphor.,.....gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.......I hiss.
   For removing the black edges of the teeth after the water
of iron springs has been used.  Acidum oxalicum may also be
used for this purpose.
   IJ Acid, hydrochlor.  dil.,     ....  gr. v.
      Aq. destil.,.......i hiss.
   M.  S. Mouth water when the saliva is alkaline and stringy.
   IJ Sodii bicarb.,......3ij.-3iss.
      Aq. destil.,......3 iiiss.
   M.  S. To be used when the saliva is  acid, or after the use
of strongly acid foods.
   IJ Cretae alb.,.......i i-
      Magnes. carb.,
      Sodii bicarb.,.....aa gr. xvi.
   M.  S. Tooth  powder;  to  be used every two weeks when
the saliva is acid.

                   Astringent Agents.

   Acidum tannicum and the allied acidum gallicum are the
most important of these.  They both raise the tone of the tis-
sues, harden softened  gums, and decrease  the  secretion of
saliva.  The alcohols are also astringent agents, which in the 
198
Cosmetics.
beginning increase the secretion of saliva b\7 their local irrita-
tion and then decrease it.  Since these  latter possess antisep-
tic properties, the tannin containing agents are given in alco-
holic  solution as mouth  water  or  as  tooth tinctures.  The
astringent agents commonly used are cortex cinchonae, cortex
salicis, rad. ratanhae, catechu, liq. campechianum, fol. salviae,
fol. cochleariae, and vinum rubrum.  These drugs are given in
decoction, in infusion, in tincture, and also in the form of tooth
powder and pastilles.  Alumen is a very important astringent
which is employed in hypersecretion of mucus or saliva, and
in inflammations and swellings of the mucous membrane of
the mouth and the gums.   It is used in solution or more rarely
in powder.

    IJ Acid, tannici,.......   3i.
      Tinct. pyrethri,......3 hj.
      Aq. rosae,.......3 vi.
   M.  S.  Gargling water (Stocken34).

    IJ Tinct. cinchonae,
      Tinct. ratanh.,
      01. caryophyll., .
    M.  S.  Tooth tincture (Scheff35).

    IJ Tinct. gallar.,
      Tinct. ratanh.,
      Tinct. spilanth. oleac,    .    .        aa, 3 iij.
      01. menth. pip.,......gtt. v.
    M.  S.  To be pencilled on the loosened gums.

    IJ Tinct. ratanh.,
      Tinct. myrrhae,.....aa  3 hj.
      Aq.  colon.,.......3 ii.
    M.  S.  A teaspoonful  in a glass of water for rinsing  out
the mouth.  It has a red color and by dilution with water be-
comes milky and foamy.

    IJ Aluminis,........3ij.
      Decoct, fol. salviae,  .    .    ,    .     .       3 x.
    M.  S.  To be used lukewarm  for sensitive gums.
aa $ ss.
.  gtt. v. 
Cosmetics.
199
   IJ Extr. rad. liquir.,
      Aq. calid.,......aa 3 iiiss.
      Catechu pulv.,......3 i.
      Gum. acaciae,......3 ss.
   Evapora in balneo Mar. ad consistent, extracti, dein adde
      Cort. cascarill. pulv.,
      Mastiches pulv.,
      Carbon, veget. pulv.,
      Rad. irid. flor. pulv.,  .    .    .    .    aa 3 ss.
   Semirefriger. adde
      Ess. (ol.) menth. pip.,    .    .    .    .   3 ss.
      Tinct. moschi,
      Tinct. ambr.,.....aa, gtt. v.
   M. f. pastill.  Obduce fol. argent.  S. Cachou de Boulogne
(Dor vault).

   IJ Extr. ratanh.,......  3 i.
      Roob. ribium,......3 ij.
      Sacch. alb.,......q. s.
   ut f. pastill. No. 35.
      S.  Pastilles.36
   IJ Vini rubri,.......3 vi.
      Succi citri,
      Sacch. alb.,......aa | ss.
   M.  S. Mouth water (Kleinmann).

                    Antiseptic Agents.

   The agents of this group prevent in most cases the decom-
position of the bits of food remaining in the mouth, the mucus,
and  the  bits of tissue thrown off  in caries of the teeth and
other diseases. In consequence of  this action they are capable
of removing the bad odors arising in such cases and  may,
therefore, be used as deodorantia.
   All these deodorizing agents conceal the odors from other
diseased  organs only by their more powerful smell, and this
holds also in the cavity of the mouth.
   Among these antiseptic agents are most of the ethereal oils
and  the drugs containing them.   The amount introduced at
one time into the mouth  is too small to be really disinfecting,
but  the odor  is so strong  that it often  conceals the foetor 
200
Cosmetics.
completely; in many cases, however, only  a mixed odor is
produced, which is  unpleasant.  Ethereal oils introduced into
the mouth have  an astringent action and also increase  the
flow of saliva, and  on account of  this latter action  are very
popular.   Apart from these effects produced, it can hardly be
supposed that they have a special action on the mucous mem-
brane of the mouth.  They have been used for the mouth and
teeth for many  centuries (myrrha, mastix, mentha).   Such
agents are rad. pyrethri, fructus capsici, hba. spidanthis, cary-
ophylli, hba. menthae, rhiz. iridis, calamus,  zingiberis, cinna-
momum, camphor, benzoin,  mastix, musk, and myrrh.  The
astringent fol. salviae and cochleariae also contain ethereal oils.

   IJ Tinct. myrrhae,
      Tinct. benzoini,.....aa, 3 i.
      Spir. cochlear.,......i iss.
   M.  S. Tooth tincture.
   IJ Rad. irid. flor.,......3 iss.
      Myrrhae,
      Coccionell.,.....aa 3 ss.
      01. caryoph.,......m viij.
      01. cinnamom.,......in, v.
      Mell. rosati,......i ss.
   M.  S. Dentifrice.

   IJ Tinct. pyrethri,
      Tinct. calami,.....aa 3 i.
      Tinct. mastiches,.....3 ss.
      Spir. frumenti,......i ij.
      01. caryophyll.,......gtt.  iij.
   M.  S. Ten to twenty drops in a glass of water for wash-
ing out the mouth.

   IJ Rad. calami,
      Cort. salicis,.....aa, 3 ij.
      Tartar, depur.,......3 ss.
      01. caryoph.,......m viij.
   M. f.  pulv. subtilis.  S. Tooth powder (Kleinmann).

   Directly antiseptic in  their action are  phenol,  creosote,
pyroligneous  acid,  and salicylic acid.  The  flrst  three, in the
concentration in which they are generally employed, overcome 
Cosmetics.
201
the foetor by their specific  odor.  Agents which would  be
really antiseptic cause unpleasant symptoms of irritation, may
cauterize, and can even produce intoxication.  Acidum sali-
cylicum is not to be used, although at the time of its  intro-
duction it was regarded as a specific  for foetor in the mouth,
caries of the teeth, and affections of  the gums.  It not only
produces inflammation of the mouth and gums, but when used
as tooth powder attacks the  enamel of the teeth.

   IJ Creosoti,.......in, xvi.
      Aq. destil.,......'     •  i vij.
   M.  S. Mouth water.
   IJ Acidi carbol. cryst.,.....gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.......i vij.
   M.  S. Mouth water.

   The chemically-acting agents are the most powerful disin-
fectants.  Such  are chlorine  in the form of chlorine water and
calcii chloridum.   These are very energetic in their action and
are the surest deodorantia.   They cannot often be used, how-
ever, since the chlorine and acidum hydrochloricum which it
forms  act on the enamel of the teeth, and  besides this, the
odor and the taste of the two agents are very unpleasant and
difficult to correct. Potassii permanganas is more often used.
Its deodorizing action in the mouth is excellent and surpasses
its antiseptic action, which, since the agent is  so soon reduced,
does not accomplish much.   The unpleasant feature of its use
is the  brown discoloration of the teeth and tongue which it
produces.   Its metallic astringent taste also  prevents its use
somewhat.

   IJ Cale  chlor.,.......3 i.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 vij.
   Posthor. 12 filtra, adde,
      01. menth.,.......3 ss.
   M.  S. Mouth water.

   R, Potassii permangan.,    ....  gr. xvi.
      Aq. destil.,.......i ij-
   M.  S. Two to three  teaspoonfuls  in a glass of water as a
deodorizing agent. 
202
Cosmetics.
   IJ  Aq. chlor.,
      Mell. despum.,......aa i i.
   M.  S. To be pencilled on the gums.
   3  Acid, oxalici,......gr. vij.
      Aq. destil.,.......3 vi.
   M.  S. Mouth water for removing the stains  of  potassii
permanganas.  Acidum hydrochloricum may also be used for
this purpose.
   The simplest, most convenient, and most innocent antisep-
tics are  potassii  chloras and  sodii boras.  Both prevent de-
composition, disinfect the mouth, and remove the foetor.  The
latter action is slow and is only noticed after continued use.
They may, however, be  used for a long time and in concen-
trated form.  The taste of both is not specially agreeable and
may be  corrected by an ethereal oil.  Both have a  marked
action in lessening the  secretion of saliva, especially in cases
of salivation.  The most energetically acting of the two, the
potassii chloras, being an oxidizing agent, has the  property of
increasing the normal secretion of  saliva and of making it
more consistent.
   IJ  Potassii chlorat.,......3ij.
      Aq. destil.,  .......1 viij.
      Aq. menth. pip.,......3 iss.
   M.   S. Mouth water.
   IJ  Sodii boratis,......3 ss.
      Aq. destil,
      Aq. salviae,......aa, § iiiss.
   M.   S. Mouth water (Scheff).

   Carbon belongs to the disinfecting agents and may also
be considered a  mechanical cleansing  agent.   It deodorizes
promptly and under its use the teeth become very white.  Al-
though  one of the oldest  and most used tooth powders, its
use is in some degree harmful, since besides  marked cosmetic
faults, like most  of these agents, it attacks the  enamel and
even the dentine when long  used.  The brushing with pow-
dered carbon, especially in the horizontal direction, produces a
defect in the neck of the tooth and the gum is tattooed dark
blue from the particles of carbon being rubbed in  and healing
in the gum.  This color is permanent.  It is quite indifferent 
Cosmetics.
203
what sort of carbon is used, whether it be wood charcoal, or
animal carbon, or bread  carbon from burnt bread-crusts.  It
should be remarked  that  the beneficial effects appear  soon
after its use is commenced, and that the injurious effects only
come on after its continued use.

   IJ Cinchonae,
      Fol. salviae,
      Carb. ligni dep.,.....aa § i.
   M. ft. pulv. subtil.  S. Pulv. dentifricius  niger  (Austrian
Pharm.).

   IJ Sacch. alb. pulv.,.....§ iiiss.
      Carb. veget. (aut panis) loti et porphyris., % i.
      Vanillae,.......3 i.
      Much. gum. traganth.,   .    .   .    .  q. s.
   ut f. pastill. pond.  gr. xiv.
   M. S. Pastilles de charbon  (Dorvault, after Chevallier)
for foetor of the breath.

                    Polishing Agents.

   These act mechanically.   The  coarser  the grain of the
powder used, the more  easily is the enamel scratched, and
under its continued use this  may even be  destroyed.  Even
when fine powders.are used the enamel becomes thinner, and
cracks in consequence  of  its lessened  resistance.  Many of
these agents have also a chemical action like the alkalies and
alkaline earths.  To this group  belong sodii carbonas, mag-
nesii carbonas, and calcii carbonas, which latjer is used in the
various forms which are found  in nature.  It is indifferent
whether  burnt marble, chalk, os sepiae, oyster shells, or red
coral, be used as tooth powder; the cost is all that determines
the choice.   On account of their chemical action these agents
cannot be used continuously, but only from  time to time, and
on account of their mechanical action they should only be used
as the finest sifted powders.  This latter is particularly the
cose  with pumice-stone, which whitens the  teeth, but  injures
the enamel if long employed.  The soaps should also be con-
sidered as belonging to these  agents, since, as on the skin, the
suds suspend the dirt and deposits which occur on the teeth
and  so render the removal  of these easy.   It goes  without 
204
Cosmetics.
saying that only neutral and hard soaps, such as soda soap,
should be used.
IJ  Pulv. oss. sepiae,
   Pulv. irid. flor.,
   Pulv. magnes. carb., .
   01. menth. pip.,  .
M.  S. Heiders tooth powder.

IJ  Oss. sepiae,
   Lap. cancror.,  .
   Cort. cinnam.,
   Rad. irid. flor.,  .
   Carb. tiliae,
iss.
aa 3 i-
.   gtt. v.
aa 3 vi.

aa 3 ss.
 .  gr. xvi.
M. exactis.  S. Gray tooth powder (Carabelli).
IJ  Sapon. amygd.,
   Magnes. carb.,
   Pulv. rad. ir. flor.,
   Carmini p., .
M. exactis.  S. Tooth powder.

IJ  Sapon. medic,
   Carmini,
Sol. in Spir. vini,
   Myrrh, pulv.,
   01. menth. pip.,
   Cale carb. praec
M. e Glycerini,
S.  Tooth soap.
aa
 _ ss.
 3i.
 gr. iij.


3vi.
gr. iss.
3SS.
gr. xvi.
3 ss.
iiss.
3i.
   The form in  which these agents are used, as well as the
manner of  their application, is seen  from these  examples.
Mouth waters are perfumed or sweetened solutions or mix-
tures; undiluted or diluted with water, they are used for wash-
ing out the mouth.  The tooth tinctures are alcoholic solutions
of ethereal oils or extracts from drugs containing such.  They
are either pencilled on the gums or added in small  quantities
to ordinary water, whereby as a rule  a cloudy emulsion-like
fluid is obtained which foams when washed about or brushed
in the mouth. Tooth powders are in solid or semi-solid form,
mixtures of one or several fine powders, to which is  added a
perfume in the shaoe of an ethereal oil or a fragrant vegetable 
Cosmetics.
205
powder, and  a coloring  matter  such as  carmine, cochineal,
extr. campech., extr. santali rubri, or sanguis draconis.  They
are applied, as a rule, by means of a brush moistened in water,
and rubbed  unfortunately in a horizontal direction for the
most part.  In  this way they injure the enamel much more
than when brushed vertically.  What was  said of  the others
will serve also for the tooth powders and pastes.  They should
not be used oftener than once in two weeks.  The tooth pastes
are tooth powders which are made into  soft pastes with gly-
cerin, syrup, or  honey, and  into  hard with alcohol.  Soap  is
often added  to these pastes;  if this be the chief constituent
the  paste is  called tooth soap, by which  is  also understood
ordinary strongly perfumed soaps or solutions of such in alco-
hol.  Pastilles should  also  be spoken of.  These  are  either
used as simple astringent agents in place of  mouth water or
to remove or conceal  a  foetor of the breath.  The latter go
under the general name cachou, since their chief constituent is
often catechu, but even those are called by this name  which
contain no trace of terra japonica.  Pastilles are dissolved in
the mouth; cachoux are chewed up but not swallowed.

                       BIBLIOGRAPHY.
   1. J.  J.  Winkelmann's Geschichte  der  Kunst  des Alterthums,
edited by Prof. Lessing,  Heidelberg, 1882, p. 105.—2.  R. Sigismund, Die
Arornata, Leipzig, 1884; also annotations  to Egyptian romances of
Ebers.—3. Hartmann, Die Hebraerin am Putztische und als  Braut,
Amsterdam, 1809.—4.  Constantin James, Toilette d'une Romaine au
temps d'Auguste  et conseils a  une  Parisienne  sur  les cosmetiques,
Paris, Gamier freres.—5. Haeser, Geschichte der Medicin, Jena,  1875.—
6.  Guy de Chauliac, Montpellier, La Grande Chirurgie, 1363, restitute
par  M. Laurens Joubert,  1659.—7. Gli ornamenti delle donne, tratti
dalle scritture d'una Reina greca per M. Giovanni Marinello in Venetia,
1562.—8. Matthiolus, Commentarii, 1558; compare  Fluckinger, Phar-
mokognosie.— 9. M. A. Racinet: Le costume historique, p.  243, Fig. 13.
—10. Johann Baptista Porta, Naples, Haus-, Kunst- und Wunderbuch,
published by Johann Zieger, Niirnberg, 1680 (Porta lived, 1540-1615), 9th
vol.: "Painting and other  methods of increasing female beauty."—11.
Karl Griin, Culturgeschichte des 17. Jahrhunderts.—12. See the illus-
trations in Racinet,  pi.  354 (Kamm),  Princesse  Conti,  Douairiere;
Duchesse -de Bourbon,  Elizabeth Charlotte  de Bourbon, Duchesse
de Chartres; also pi. 355 (DH) Mine, la Comtesse de  Mailly, Char-
lotte  de  Baviere, Duchesse  cTAiguillon.—13.  Jules et  Edmond
Goncourt, la  femme au XVIIIeme  siecle, Paris.—14.  A  picture of
Racinet's,  pi.  245 (FE),  after  a  tapestry of  Arras, end of 15th 
206
Cosmetics.
century, shows an elegantly dressed lady pouring perfume on her feet,
standing in a square bath-tub.—15. Compare Racinet, pi. 348  (DU),
La femme de qualite en deshabille pour  le bain; after a picture  of
Saint-Jean.—16.  Compare the flrst volumes, 1786-1802, of the Journal
der Moden, "Weimar.—17. Dens hiberna defricatus  urina.—18. Cf. M.
Weiss, Zur Pathologie und Therapie der Angioneurosen, Centralbl. f. d.
ges. Ther., 1888.—19. Winternitz, Hydrotherapie in v. Ziemssen's Hand-
buch, II., Leipsic, 1881.—20. Neuerungen in der Seifen-Industrie, 1884.
—21. Auspitz, H., Die Seife und ihre Wirkung auf die gesunde und
kranke Haut, Vienna, 1867.—22.  O. Liebreich, Das Mollin, Ther. Monh.,
4,  1887.—23.  B.   Fischer,  Die  neueren Arzneimittel,  2  Aufl., Ber-
lin,  1888.—24.  S. Piesse,  Des  Odeurs, des Parfums  et  des Cosme-
tiques, 2 ed., Paris,  1887; also the  German translation of the work,
H. Hirzel, Toilettenchemie.—25. Debay, Les parfums de  la toilette,
Paris, 1875, and  by the same author, Hygiene de la beaute humaine,
H. du visage, H. des mains   et  des  pieds,   H.  des  cheveux.—26.
Hager, Handbuch der  pharmaceutischen Praxis.—27. Cosmetica  in
Eulenburg's Realencyklopadie.—28.  Cf. Deutsch. mil.-arztl. Zeitschrift,
5, 1889.—29. L'Offlcine, etc., Paris, Asselin, 1880.—30.  Bernatzik, Cos-
metica in  Eulenburg's  Realencyklopadie.—31.  H. W.  Snow,  Face
Powders,  Pharm. Journal and  Transactions, June,  1888.—32.  F.
Altmann, Die Maske des Schauspielers, Berlin.—33. Lustgarten, Rad-
ical-Epilation mittelst Elektrolyse, "Wiener med. "Wochenschrift, 1886.—
34.  Kleinmann,  Recepttaschenbuch fur Zahnarzte, Leipzig, 1882.—35.
Jul.  Scheff, Jr.,  Lehrbuch der Zahnheilkunde, "Wien.—36.  Prescrip-
tion of Dr. Rousburger, Vienna. 
INDEX.
Acarus folliculorum, 42
Acid, boric, cosmetic use of, 94
    carbolic, cosmetic use of, 96
Acids, cosmetic use of, 87
Acne pustules, treatment, 91
    rosacea, treatment, 92
    wash, 84, 108
Acrothymion, 49
Alcohol,  cosmetic use of, 81
Alkalies, cosmetic use of, 82
Alloxan,  cosmetic use of, 125
Almond pastes,  76,  77
Alopecia, 143
    areata, 145, 162, 163
    furfuracea, 144
    treatment of, 146, 162, 163
Aluminium salts, cosmetic use of,
  108
Ambergris, 135
Aqua orientalis, 114
Arsenic, cosmetic use of, 115
Asteatosis, 40

Balsams, cosmetic use of, 97
Barium sulphate, cosmetic use of,
  122
Baths, 54
Birch balsam, 84
Bismuth salts, cosmetic use of, 110
    white, cosmetic use of, 122
Blanc de cygne, 129
    de neige, 130
    de pcrles liquid, 129
    nouveau, 128
Borax, cosmetic use of, 87
Boule de senteur, 139
Brasilin, cosmetic use of, 125
Brillantine, 153
Bromidrosis, 44, 109

Cacao cream, 75
Cachou de Boulogne, 199
Callosities, 47, 85, 88, 89
Camphor ice, 74
Carmine, preparation of, 124
Carthamine, cosmetic use of, 125
Cassolette, 130
Castoreum, 135
Castor-oil pomade, 153
Caustic mixtures, 85
Ceratum labiale rubrum, 190
Chalk, cosmetic use of, 121
Chapped hands, 112
    lips, 189
Chilblain, 50, 95, 99, 103,  109, 111,
      112, 113
    soap, 68
Chloasmata, 32, 85, 107, 114, 115
Chlorine, cosmetic use of, 140
Chromidrosis, 45
Cinnabar, cosmetic use of, 126
Civet, 135
Clavus, 47, 84, 85, 89, 102, 114
Cold cream, 74, 75, 76
Comedo wash, 84
Comedones, 41, 84, 100
Corns, 47, 84, 85, 89, 102, 114
Cosmetic cream, 106
Cosmetics, 118
    application of, 132
    colored, 126
    fluid red, 130 
208
Index.
Cosmetics, fluid white, 129
    history, 6
    red, 124, 129, 130
    red grease, 131
    removal of, 133
    white, 121, 129
    white grease, 131
Cream, emollient, 86
Creme circassienne, 153
    neige, 154
Creosote soap, 100
Cucumber pomade, 75

Dandruff remedies, 155
Dentifrices, 200,  203
Deodorants, 140
Depilatories, 176

Eau cosmetique, 77
    de Gerlain, 114
    de princesse, 99
Eczema,  facial, treatment, 92
Electrolysis, epilation by, 148
Eosin, cosmetic  use of, 125
Ephelides, 32, 35, 84, 86, 92, 101, 102,
  104, 107, 112, 113, 114
Epilation by electrolysis, 148
Erythema, 111
Erythematous blotches, 91,  92, 95
Extrait de fleurs de sureau, 99

Face  pomade, 115
    powders and pastes, 118, 123
Fat, cosmetic use of,  69
Feet, sweating,  46, 93, 94, 96, 113
Foetor ex ore, 193
Foot powder, 87, 94
Freckle wash, 84, 86,  87
Freckles, 32, 35, 84, 86, 92, 101, 102,
  104,  107,  112, 113, 114

Glycerin cold cream, 81
    cosmetic use of, 79
    lotion, 86
    paste,  80
Glyconin,  80
Gums, bleeding, 195

Hair, care of the, 150
Hair, color of, 142
    dyes, 165
    dyes, mineral, 169 et seq.
    dyes, vegetable, 166
    falling of the, treatment, 164
    hypertrophy of, 148
    oils and pomades, 151 et seq.
    structure of, 141
    tonics, 160
    tonics, quinine,  162
    water, 161, 164
Hands, chapped, 112
Hangnail, 185
Herpes labialis,  190
Huile crystallise^ 154
Hyperidrosis, 43, 45, 87, 93, 95, 96,
  113
Hypertrichosis,  148

Ice  pomade, 75
Ichthyol,  101
Introduction, 5
Iodine collodion, 103
    cosmetic use of,  103
Irritants,  dermal, 101

Kohol, 168

Lait de lilas, 78
    de pissenlit,
    virginal, 99
Lanolin, cosmetic use of, 72
    milk,  74
    pomade, 74
Lead salts, cosmetic use of, 109
    white, cosmetic use of, 122
Lentigines,  32, 35, 115
Leucoderma, 35, 37
Lihonese, 84, 86
Lip pomades. 191
Lips, care of the, 188
     chapped, 189
Liqueur styptique,  92
Liquid pearl, 130
Liquor trichopathicus, 162

Magnesia, cosmetic use of, 121
Mercurial salts, cosmetic use of, 110
Metallic salts, cosmetic use of, 108 
Index.
209
Milk, cosmetic, 87
Mouth, acids and alkalies for, 196
    antiseptics for, 199
    astringents for, 197
    care of the, 187
    Avashes, 200, 202
Musk, 135

N^vi, 31, 35, 89
Nail, hypertrophy of the, 185
    pastes, 183
    powder, 183
Nails, care of the, 180
    ingrown, 186
Naphthol, cosmetic use of, 96
Nipples, sore, 85, 112

Oil, cosmetic use of,  72
Oils, ethereal, 136
    ethereal, distillation of, 137
    ethereal, enfleurage of, 138
    ethereal, maceration of, 137
Onychia, 185
Oriental cream, 130
Red, fluid, 130
         14
Resins, cosmetic use of, 97
Rosalinde, 131
Rose liquide, 130
Rouge en pot, 129

Sachets, 139
Saffron, cosmetic use of, 125
Saunders' bloom of Ninon, 128
Schnouda, 132
Seborrhoea, 40, 95, 96, 106
    oleosa, 40, 84
    sicca, 40
Silica, cosmetic use of, 121
Skin, abnormal pigmentation of
      the, 31
    anatomy of the, 28
    change of color of the, 30
    exfoliation of the, 40
    fissured, 85
    lustre of the, 37
    scaly, 113, 114
    smoothness of the, 38
    wrinkles of the, 38
Soap, action of, 56
    chilblain, 68
    cosmetic use of, 55
    creosote, 100
    formulae, 68
    manufacture of, 62
    powders, 66
    spirits, 67
    sulphur, 107
    tar, 100
    toilet, 60
    tooth, 204
    varieties of, 57
    with excess of fat, 64
    yolk of egg, 157
Sulphur, cosmetic use of, 104
    lotion, 106
    paste, 107
    pomade, 106
    soap,  107
Sunburn, treatment, 95, 113, 115
Swan's down, 128
Sweat powder, 113

Talc, cosmetic use of, 121
Tannin, cosmetic use of, 95
Paronychia, 185
Peau d'Espagne, 139
Perfumes, cosmetic use of, 134
Pernio, 50, 95, 99, 103, 109, 111, 112,
  113,
Pistachio meal,  76
Plaster, gray, 116
Pomatum, roll,  154, 155
Pommade de Tuthie, 112
    philocome, 153
Potassa cream, 85
Potassium  permanganate,   cos-
  metic use of, 140
Poudre de  perle. 128
Powder, cosmetic, 87
Powders, bean meal,  117
    cosmetic, 116
    orris, 117
    rice,  117
    starch, 116
    toilet, 127
    wheat,  117 
2IO
Index.
Tar, cosmetic use of, 97
    soap, 100
Tartar, 192
Tattooing, 34
Teeth, care of the, 191
    incrustations on (tartar), 192
Toilet water, 86
Tooth paste, 200
    powders, 200, 203, 204
    soap, 204
    washes, 200, 201
Trichoptilosis, 147
Trichorrexis nodosa, 147
Tyloma, 47, 85, 88,  89
Tylosis, 47, 85, 88, 89
Vaseline, cosmetic use of, 73
Verruca, 49, 85, 88, 89, 114
    glabra, 49
    plana, 49
Vinegar, toilet, 90
Vitiligo, 35, 37

Warts, 49, 85, 88, 89, 114
Water, action on the skin, 52
    cosmetic use of, 51
Wilson's salve, 111
Wrinkles, 100

Zinc salts, cosmetic use of, 109
    white, cosmetic use of, 121 
           THE  PRINCIPLES
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                            Lecturer on Botany and Pharmacognosy
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   Translated from the Second and Completely Revised German Edition by

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