y. A C O F r E A Am fora. At-s-nfu S/ruc- under the reign of the great boliman, one hundred years after its introduction by the Mufti of Aden, became known to the inhabitants of Conftantinople ; when two private perfons, whofe names were Schems and Hekin, the one coming from Da- mafeus, and the other from Aleppo, each opened a Coffee-houfe in Conftantinople, and fold Coffee publicly, in rooms fitted up in an elegant manner; which were prefently frequented by men of learning, and particularly poets and other perfons, who came to amufe themfelves with a game of chefs, or draughts; or to make acquaintance, and pafs their time agreeably at a fmall cxpence. Thefe houfes and affemblics infenfibly became fb much in vogue, that they were frequented by people of all profeffions, and even by the officers of the feraglio, the pachas, and perfons of the fir ft rank about the court. However, when they feemed to be the moft firmly eftablifhed, the Imans, or officers of the Mofques, complained loudly of their being deferred, while the Coffee-houfes were full of company. The Dervifes and the reli- gious orders murmured, and the Preachers declaimed againft them, aflerting that it was a left fin to go to a Tavern than to a Coffee-houfe. After much wrangling, the devotees united their interefts to obtain an authentic condemnation of Coffee, and determined to prefent to the Mufti a petition for that purpofe; in which they advanced, that roafted Coffee was a kind of coal, and that wThat had any relation to coal was forbid by law. They defired him to determine on this matter according to the duty of his office. The Chief of the Law, without entering much into the queftion, gave fuch a decifion as they wifhed for, and pronounced that the drinking of Coffee was contrary to the law of Mahomet, The History of C OF F EE. So refpeclable is the authority of the Mufti, that nobody dared to find fault with his fentence. Immediately all the Coffee- houfes were fhut, and the officers of the police were command- ed to prevent any one from drinking Coffee. However, the habit was become fo ftrong, and the life of it fo generally agreeable, that the peoplecontinued, notwithftanding all prohibitions, to drink it in their own houfes. The officers of the police, feeing they could not fupprefs the ufe of if, allowed of the felling it, on paying a tax; and the drinking it, provided it was not done openly; fo that it was drunk in particular places, with the doors fhut, or in the back room of fome of the fhopkeepers houfes. Under colour of this, Coffee-houfes by little and little were re-eftablifhed ; and a new Mufti, lefs fcrupulous and more en- lightened than his predeceffor, having declared publicly, that coffee had no relation to coal, and that the infufion of it was not contrary to the law of Mahomet, the number of Coffee-houfes became greater than before. After this declaration, the religious orders, the preachers, the lawyers, and even the Mufti himfelf drank Coffee; and their example was followed univerfiilly by the court and city. The Grand Vifirs, having poflefled themfelves of a fpecial au- thority over the houfes in which it was permitted to be drunk publickly, took advantage of this opportunity of railing a con- fiderablc tax on the licences they granted for that purpofe, obliging each mafler of a Coffee-houfe to pay a fequin per day, and limiting however the price at an afper a difh (a). . urkdh Sequin (according to Chambers) is of tlic value of about nine fliillmgs fterling; and the Afper is a very fmall filver coin of the value of omet mg more than an Englifh half-penny. The prefent value is nearly feven The History of COFFEE. 'Thus far the Arabian mahufcript in the king of France’s library, as tranflated by Mr. Galand; who proceeds to inform us of the occafion of a total fuppreffion of public CofFee-houfes during the war in Candia, when the Ottoman affairs were in a critical fituation. The liberty which the politicians who frequented thefe houfes took, in fpeaking too freely of public affairs, was carried to that length, that the Grand Vifir Kupruli, father of the two famous brothers of the fame name, who afterwards fucceeded him, fuppreffed them all, during the minority of Mahomet the Fourth, with a difintereftednefs hereditary in his family, without regard- ing the lofs of fo confidcrable a revenue, of which he reaped the advantage himfelf. Before he came to that determination, he vifited, incognito, the feveral Coffee-houfes, where he ob- ferved fenfible grave perfons difcourfing ferioufly of the affairs of the empire, blaming adminiflration, and deciding with con- fidence on the moft important concerns. He had before been in the Taverns, where he only met with gay'young fellows, moftly foldiers, who were diverting themfelves with finging, or talking of nothing but gallantry and feats of war. Thefe he took no further notice of. After the (hutting up of the Coffee-houfes, no lefs Coffee was drunk, for it was carried about in large copper veffels with fire under them, through the great fireets and markets. This was only done at Gonftantinople ; for in all other towns of the em- pire, and even in the fmalleft villages, the Coffee-houfes con- tinued open as before. Not withftanding this precaution of fuppreffing the public meetings at Coffee-houfes, the confumption of Coffee increafed y {hillings; that is, two (hillings and three-pence three-farthings for a. dollar,, or eighty afpers ; confequently three afpers are w»rth fornething more than apenny fterling j but they are generally reckoned at an half-penny each. Two hundred and forty-three afpers go to a fequin. The History of COFFEE. for there was no houfe or family, rich or poor, Turk or Jew, Greek or Armenian, who are very numerous in that city, where it was not drunk at leaft twice a day, and many people drank it oftener, for it became a cuftom in every houfe to offer it to all vifitors ; and it was reckoned an incivility to refufe it; fo that many people drank twenty difhes a day, and that without any incon- venience, which is fuppofed by this author an extraordinary ad- vantage; and another great ufe of Coffee, according to him, is its uniting men in fociety in ftri&er ties of amity than any other liquor ; and he obferves, that fuch proteftations of friendfhip as are made at fuch times, are far more to be depended upon than when the mind is intoxicated with inebriating liquors. He com- putes, that as much is fpent in private families in the article of Coffee at Conftantinople, as in Wine at Paris $ and relates, that it is cuftomary there to afk for money to drink Coffee, as in Europe for money to drink your health in Wine or Beer. Another curious particular we find mentioned here, is, that the refufmg to fupply a wife with Coffee, is reckoned among the legal caufcs of a divorce. The Turks drink their Coffee very hot and ft rang, and with- out fugar. Now and then they put in, when it is boiling, a clove or two bruifed, according to the quantity ; or a little of the fernen badian, called ftarry annifeed, or fome of the leffer cardamums, or a drop of eflence of amber. It is not eafy to determine at what time, or upon what occafion, the ufe of Coffee paffed from Conftantinople to the Weftern parts of Europe. It is however likely that the Venetians, upon account of the proximity of their dominions, and their great trade to the Levant, were the firft acquainted with it; which appears from part of a letter wrote by Peter della Valle, a Venetian, in 1615, from Conftantinople; in which he tells his friend, that, upon his return he fhould bring with him fome Coffee, which he relieved was a thing unknown in his country. 12 The History of C O F F E E. Mr. Galand tells us he was informed by Mr.de la Croix, the* King’s Interpreter, that Mr.Thevenot, who had travelled through the Eaff, at his return in 1657, brought with him to Paris fome Coffee for his own ufe, and often treated his friends with it; amongft which number Monfieur de la Croix was one ; that from that time he had continued to drink it, being fupplied by fome Armenians who fettled at Paris, and by degrees brought it into reputation in that city. It was known fome years fooner at Marfeilles; for in 1644* fome gentlemen who accompanied Monfieur dc la Haye to Con- ffantinople, brought back with them on their return, not only fome Coffee, but the proper veffels and apparatus for making and drinking it, which were particularly magnificent, and very different from what are now ufed amongft us. However, until the year 1660, Coffee was drunk only by fuch as had been ac- cuftomed to it in the Levant, and their friends: but that year fome bales were imported from, Egypt, which gave a great number of perfons an opportunity of trying it, and contributed very much to bringing it into general ufe; and in 1671, certain private perfons at Marfeilles determined for the firft time to open a Coffee-houfe in the neighbourhood of the Exchange, which fucceeded extremely well ; people met there to fmoke, talk of bufinefs, and divert themfelves with play :■ it was Toon crouded, particularly by the Turkey merchants and traders to the Levant. Thefe places were found very convenient for difeourfe ing on and fettling matters relating to commerce; and fhortly after, the number of Coffee-houfes encreafed amazingly. Not- withffanding which, there was not lefs drunk in private houfes, but a much greater quantity ; fo that it became univerfally in ufe av> Marfeilles, and the neighbouring cities.. Before the year 1669, Coffee had not been feen at Paris, except at Mr. Thevenot’s, and fome of his friends; nor fcarce Ths History of COFFEE. fceard of but from the account of travellers. That year was diftinguifhed by the arrival of Soliman AgaAmbaffador from Sultan Mahomet the Fourth. Thismuft be looked upon as the true period of the introdu&ion of Coffee into Paris. For that minifter and his retinue brought a confiderable quantity with them, which they prefented to fo many perfons of the court and city, that many became accuftomed to diink it, with the addition of a little fugar;; and fome, who had found benefit by it, did not chufe to be without it. The Ambaffador ftaid at Paris from July 1669 to May 1.670, which wras a fufficient time to eftablifh the cuftom he had introduced,. Two years afterwards, an Armenian, of the name of Pafcal, fet up a Coffee-houfe, but meeting with little encouragement, left Paris, and came to London he was fucceeded by other Armenians and Perfians, but not with much fuccefs, for want ©f addrefs and proper places to difpofe of it; genteel people not caring to be feen in thofe places where it was fold. How- ever, not long after, when fome Frenchmen had fitted up for the purpofe fpacious apartments- in an elegant manner, orna- mented with tapeftry, large looking-giaffes,. piaures, and mag- nificent iulfres, and began to fell Coffee,, with Tea, Cho- colate, and other refrefhmentSi they foon became frequented by people of fafhion and men of letters, fo that in a fhort time the number in Paris increafedto three hundred; For this account of the introduaion of the ufe of Coffee into .Paris, we are indebted to La Roque’s Voyage into Arabia Felix. We now come to trace its firft appearance in London. It appears from Anderfon’s Chronological Hiftory of Com- merce, that the ufe of Coffee was introduced into London fome years earlier than into Paris. For in one Mr. Edwards, a Turkey merchant, brought home with him a Greek fervant, whole name was- Pafqua,. who underfiood the rdaftihg and 14 The History of COFFEE. making of Coffee, till then unknown in England. This fervant was the firft who fold Coffee, and kept a houfe for that pur- pofe in George-yard, Lombard-Street. The firffc mention of Coffee in our ftatute books, is anno 1660 (12 Car. 11. cap. 24.) when a duty of Four-pence was laid upon every gallon of Coffee made and fold, to be paid by the maker. The ftatute of the 15 Car. 11. cap. xi. § 15. ann. 1663 direfts that all Coffee-houfes fhould be licenfed at the General Quarter Seflions of the Peace for the county within which they are to be kept. In 1675, King Charles iffued a Proclamation, to (hut up the Coffee-Houfes, but in a few days fufpended the proclama- tion by a fecond. They were charged with being feminaries of fedition. The firft European author who has made any mention of Coffee, is Rauwolfus, who was in the Levant in 1573; but the fir ft who has particularly deferibed it, is Profper Alpinus, in his Hiftory of the Egyptian Plants, publifhed at Venice in 1591, whole defeription we have in Parkinfon’s Theatre of Plants, page 1622, chap. 79. as follows: Arbor Bon, cum frubfu fuo buna, the Turk’s berry drink; Alpinus in his book of Egyptian Plants, gives us the deferip- tion of this tree, which he fays, he faw in the garden of a captain of the Janiffaries, which was brought out of Arabia Felix and there planted, as a rarity never feen growing in thofe places before. The tree, faith Alpinus, is fomewhat like the Euonymus, or Spindle tree, but the leaves of it were thicker, harder, and greener, and always abiding on the tree. The fruit is called Buna, and is fomewhat bigger than a hazel nut, and longer, round alfo, and pointed at one end, furrowed likewife on both tides, yet on one fide more confpicuous than the other, !the History of CO FFE E. 15 that it might be parted into two, in each fide whereof lieth a fmall oblong white kernel, flat 'on that fide they join toge- ther, covered with a yellowifh fkin, of an acid tafte, and fome- what bitter, and contained in a thin (hell (by of a darkifh afh co- lour. With thefe berries, in Arabia and ./Egypt, and other parts of the Turkifh dominions, they generally make a decodion or drink, which is in the Read of wine to them, and com- monly fold in their Tap-houfes, or Taverns, called by the name of Caova. Paludamus fays, Choava, and Rauwolfus, Chauke. This drink has many good phyfical properties; it ftrengthens a weak ftomach, helping digefHon, and the tumours and ob- flru&ions of the liver, and fpleen being drank falling for fome1- time together. It is held in great eftimation among the ./Egyp- tian and Arabian women, in common feminine cafes, in which they find it does them eminent fervice. Lord Chancellor Bacon likewifc makes mention of it in 1624; he fays, that the Turks have a drink called Coffee, made with boiling water, of a berry reduced into powder, which makes the water as black as foot, and is of a pungent and aromatic fmell, and is drunk warm. The celebrated John Ray, in his Hiftory of Plants, publifhed in 1690, fpeaking of it as a drink very much in ufe, fays, that this tree grows only within the Tropics, and fuppofes that the Arabs deflroy the vegetable quality of the feeds, in order to confine among themfelves the great fhare of wealthl, which is brought thither from the whole world for this commodity 1 from whence he obferves that this part of Arabia might be truly ftyled the moft happy, and that it was almofl: incredible how many millions of bufhels were exported from thence into Turkey, Barbary, and Europe; he fays, he was affonifhed that (£) This defcription is evidently taken from, a dried berry, and not from the ripe fruit,. 16 the History of COFFEE* one particular nation (hould poflefs fo great a treafure; and that within the narrow limits of one province; and that he wondered the neighbouring nations did not contrive to bring away fome of the found feeds or living plants, in order to (hare in the advantages of fo lucrative a trade. Wc now come to (hew by what means this valuable tree was hrft introduced into Europe, and from thence into America. The firft account of this tree being brought into Europe, we have from Boerhaave, ki his Index of the Leyden Garden, part 11. page 217, which is as follows: Nicholas Witfen, burgomafter of Amfterdam, and governor of the Eaft India Company, by his letters often advifed and defired Van Hoorn, gover- nor of Batavia, to procure from Mocha, in Arabia Felix, (bme berries of the Coffee-tree, to be fown at Batavia; which he having accordingly done, and by that means, about the year 1690, raifed many plants from feeds, he fent one over to governor Witfen, who immediately prefented it to the garden at Amfterdam, of which he was the founder and fup- porter : it there bom fruit, which in a (hort time produced many young plants from the feeds. Boerhaave then concludes that the merit of introducing this rare tree Into Europe, is due to the care and liberality of Witfen alone. In the year 1714, the magiftratesof Amfterdam, in order to payja particular compliment it Lewis XIV, king of France, pre- fented to him an elegant plant of this rare tree, carefully and judi— cully packed up to go by water, and defended from the weather by a curious machine covered with glafs. The plant was about five feet high, and an inch in diameter in the ftem, and was in full foliage, with both green and ripe fruit. It was viewed in the river, with great attention and curiofity, by fe- veral members of the Academy of Sciences, and was afterwards conduced to the Royal Garden at Marly, under the care of The History / COFFEE. 17 Monfieur de Jufiieu, the king’s profeffor of Botany; who had, the year before, written a Memoir, printed in the Hiftory of the Academy of Sciences of Paris, in the year 1713, defcribing the characters of this genus, together with an elegant figure of it, taken from a fmaller plant, which he had received that year from Monfieur Pancras, burgomafter of Amfterdam, and director of the botanical garden there. In 1718, the Dutch colony at Surinam began firft to plant Coffee; and in 1722, Monfieur de la Motte Aigron, governor of Cayenne, having bufinefs at Surinam, contrived, by an arti- fice, to bring away a plant from thence, which, in the year 1725, had produced many thoufands. In 1727, the French, perceiving that this acquifition might be of great advantage in their other colonies, conveyed to Mar- tinico fome of the plants ; from whence it mod probably fpread to the neighbouring iflands; for in the year 1732, it was cul- tivated in Jamaica, and an aCt paffed to encourage its growth in that ifland.—Thus was laid the foundation of a moft extenfive and beneficial trade to the European fettlements in the Weft- Indies. the History of COFFEE, An Account of the Culture of the Coffee Tree in Arabia Felix, extracted from La Roque’s Voyage. TIE relates, that the Coffee-tree is there raifed from feed, A which they fow in nurferies, and plant them out as they have occalion. They chufe for their plantations a moift, fhady fituation, on a fmall eminence, or at the foot of the mountains y and take great care to conduft from the mountains little rills of water, in fmall gutters or channels,, to the roots of the trees; for it is abfolutely neceflary they fhould be conftantly watered, in order to produce and ripen the fruit. For that purpofe, when they remove or transplant the tree, they make a trench of three feet wide, and five feet deep, which they line or cover with Hones, that the water may the more readily fink deep into the earth, with which the trench is filled, in order to preferve the moifiure from evaporating. When they obferve that there is a good deal of fruit upon the tree, and that it is nearly ripe, they turn off the water from the roots, to lelfen that fucculency in the fruit, which too much moifture would occafion. In places much expofed to the South, they plant their Coffee- trees in regular lines, fheltered by a kind of Poplar-tree, which extends its branches on every fide to a great diftance, and affords a very thick fhadc. Without fuch precaution they fuppofe the exceffive heat of the fun would parch and dry the bloffoms fo, that they would not be fucceeded by any fruit. In fituations not fo much expofed to the fun, this defence is not neceffary. When they perceive the fruit come to maturity, they The History of COF F E E* 19 fpread cloths under the trees, which they fbake, and the ripe fruit drops readily [c] ; they afterwards fpread the berries upon mats* and expofe them to the fun, until they are perfc&ly dry* After which they break the hulk with large heavy rollers, made either of wood or ftone. When the Coffee is thus cleared of its hufk, it is again dried in the fun ; for, unlefs it is thoroughly dried, there is danger of its heating on board the fhlp* It is then winnowed with a large fan ; for if it is not well cleaned and dried, it fells for a much lower price* The manner of preparing and drinking Coffee among the Arabians* from the fame Author. The Arabians, when they take their Coffee off the fire, imme- diately wrap the veffel in a wet doth, which fines the liquor Inftantly, makes it cream at top, and oecafions a more pungent fteam, which they take great pleafure in (huffing up as the Coffee is pouring into the cups. They, like all other nations of the Eaft* drink their Coffee without fugar. People of the firfi: faffiion life nothing but Sultana Coffee, which is prepared in the following manner: they bruife the outward hulk, or dried pulp, and put it into an iron or earthen pan, which is placed Upon a charcoal fire ; they then keep ftirring it to and fro until it becomes a little brown, but not of fo deep a colour as common Coffee; they then throw it into boiling water, ad- [V] This circumftance deferves the particular attention of the Weft India planter, who, I am told, is aecuftomed to gather his Coffee as foon as it turns red* before it changes to a dark red colour, and begins to thrive!; whereas the Arabians wait for thofe tokens, which fhew the full maturity of the fruit, Mr. Miller in his Di£tionary mentions, that in fome ftoves in England, Coffee is railed of a better quality than the beft Mocha Coffee that can be procured in this country; which may likewife be owing to gathering the fruit only when it is thoroughly ripe. 20 The History of COFFEE. ding at leaft the fourth part of the inward hufks j which is then boiled all together In the manner of other Coffee : the colour of this liquor has fome refemblance to the bell Englifli beer. The hulks muff be kept in a very dry place, and packed up very clofe ; for the leaft humidity fpoils the flavour. They efteem the liquor prepared in this manner preferable to any other. The French, when they were at the court of the King of Yemen, faw no other Coffee drunk, and they found the flavour of it very delicate and agreeable; there was no occafion to ufe fugar, as it had no bitter tafte to corredl. In all probability, this Sultana Coffee can only be made where the tree grows; for as the hulks have little fubftance, if they are too much dried in order to fend them to other countries, the agreeable flavour they had when frefh is greatly impaired. It may perhaps be worth while for our Weft India planters, to make a trial of drying the outward and inner hulk of Coffee, fcparately, in the manner the Chinefe do their Tea, upon a broad, fhallow iron pan, turned upwards at the brim, placed upon a ffove. They fhould be kept continually turning, to prevent burn- ing ; and when they are become too hot to be handled, they Ihould be taken off with a kind of (hovel, and laid upon a matt, on a low table, and fluffed about until they cool, fanning them at the fame time, to difpcrfe the moiffure. The pan muff be frequently wiped and kept clean from any clammy matter flicking to it, and the procefs repeated while any moiffure is per* ceived. They muff afterwards be packt clofe in dry jars, can. nlfters, or chefts, lined with lead, fuch as the Tea is fent over in. It will be proper to turn outthefe hufks, after they have lain fome days, to examine whether they are thoroughly dry; and if the leaft damp is felt, it will be neceffary to dry them ftill more, other- wife they will become mouldy, and lofe their flavour. For it ap- The History of COFFEE. 21 pears from the Arabian account, that they are not acquainted with a proper method of drying thefe hulks, and packing them fo as to be conveyed to any conliderable diftance, without pre- judicing this agreeable flavour. TheChinefe are very careful not to leave their Tea leaves in heaps before they are dried; which would occalion them to heat and fpoil. They likewife gather no more at a time than they can dry in lefs than 24 hours; as they find, when they have been kept longer, they turn black. Thefe obfervations may poffibly be of fome ufe to thofe who may be induced to attempt drying the pulp of the berry, for the purpofe of making Sultana Coffee, The History of C O F F EE. ExtraSl from Nieburh’s Voyage to Arabia, lately puhlifhed in Denmark. THE Arabians drink but little with their meals, but foon after them take a good draught of water, and thereupon a cup of Coffee, without milk or fugar ; but prepared in other refpe&s in the fame manner as ours. However, this liquor is rarely drunk in Yemen, becaufe it is there believed to heat the blood. But the inhabitants of that province compofe a drink of the hulls of Coffee, which in tafle and colour much refembles Tea: this they efleem wholefome and refrefhing. It is prepared nearly in the fame manner as that from the feed or bean, and is the “ Caffee a la Sultane” of the French, Nieburh’s party had taken with them a Coffee-mill to Arabia, but foon left: off ufiog it, becaufe they found the ground Coffee much inferior to the bruifed ; which lad; is the Arabian method of preparing it. The Coffee trees are particularly cultivated to the Weft of the great mountains which run through Yemen. The exportation of this plant is forbidden, under the fevered: penalties; and yet the Dutch, French, and Englifh, have found means to tranfport fome of them into their colonies; but the Coffee of Yemen dull keeps the preference, probably becaufe the Europeans do not cultivate theirs in the fame manner, and upon fuch high moun- tains, where there is fo regular a temperature of air as in Yemen. The Englifh Ead: India Company fend only one vclfel every fecond year into the Arabian guiph, to take in there a lading .of Coffee. IBS E R V ATIONS on COFFEE,, From Dr. Brown’s Natural Hiftory of Jamaica, p. 161.. HIS fhrub has been long introduced and cultivated in the -*• ifland of Jamaica, where it grows very luxuriantly,, and rifbs frequently to, the height of eight or nine feet, fpreading its flexile branches to a conlidcrable diftance on every lide. It; thrives beft in a rich foil,, and cool, fhaded lituation, where it* can be duly refrefhed with a moderate fhare of moifture : and in fuch a foil and lituation, it generally produces fo great aquan-* tity of fruit, that the branches can hardly fuftain the weight, though bending to the ground ; and you may frequently obferve . the very trunk to yield to the load. The tree, however, is ob- ferved to grow and thrive in almoff: every foil about the moun- tains, and will frequently produce great quantities of fruit in the- dryeft fpots; though in Arabia, where this plant is a native, and had becn,firft propagated, and brought into ufe, it is ob* ferved to be cultivated between the hills : and yet the drought* of the place is fuch, that they are frequently obliged to refrefli the roots with water; which, as it is often wanted in that country, is generally conveyed by gutters or channels through every piece, . It is a general remark in England, and indeed a certain one, that the Coffee imported from America does not anfwer fo well as that of the growth of Arabia ; nor is it owing, as fome ima- gine, to any foreign fume, or vapours it might have contracted in the paifage, though great care ffiould be always taken to prevent 24 lhe History of COFFEE. any acqulfitlon of this nature; for even there what is commonly ufed, will neither parch or mix like the Turkey Coffee : but this has been hitherto owing to the want of obfervation, or knowing the nature of the grain ; moft people being attentive to the quantity of the produce, while the qualities are but feldom confidered. I have been many years in thofe colonies; and, being always a lover of Coffee, have been often obliged to put up with the produce of the country in its different hates. This gave me room to make many obfervations upon this grain ; and I dare fay they are fuch as will be conflantly found true ; and, if rightlv regarded, will foon put the inhabitants of our American colo- nies in a way of fupplying the mother country with as good Coffee as we ever had from Turkey, or any other part of the world. For the eafier underflanding of this aflertion, I fhall fet down the remarks I have made, as they occur. 1. New Coffee will never parch, or mix well, ufe what art you will. This proceeds from the natural clammincfs of the juices of the grain, which requires a fpace of time proportioned to its quantity to be wholly deftroyed. 2. The finaller the grain, and the lefs pulp the berry has, the better the Coffee, and the fooner it will parch, mix, and acquire a flavour. 3. The drier the foil, and the warmer the fituation, the better the Coflee it produces will be, and the fooner it will acquire a flavour. 4. The larger and the more fucculent the grain, the worfe it will be, the more clammy, and the longer in acquiring a flavour. 5. The worft Coffee produced in America will, in a courfe of years, not exceeding ten or fourteen, be as good, parch, and The History of COFFEE, 25 mix as well, and have as high a flavour, as the befl we now have from Turkey; but due care fhould be taken to keep it in a dry place, and to preferve it properly. 6. Small grained Coffee, or that which is produced in a dry foil and warm fltuation, will in about three years be as good, and parch as well, as that which is now commonly ufed in the Coffee-houies in London. Thefe are fads founded on repeated experiments, which I have tried from time to time, during my refidence in Jamaica ; though it be very rare to fee what a man may call good Coffee in the ifland, for they generally drink it a la Sultane (W), and never referve more than is fuffleient to fupply them from one year to another. I have examined the Turkey Coffee with great care fmee I came to England ; and conclude, from the fize of the grain, the frequent abortion of one of the feeds, and the narrownefs of the Ik in that contains the pulp, that the flirub muft be greatly flunted in its growth; and from hence judge, that whoever en- deavours to produce good Coffee, and fuch as would mellow as foon as that of Arabia, or exped feeds that may have the fame flavour, muft try what can be produced in the lower hills and mountains of the Southern part of the ifland: nay, even try what the favannas will bear; and I am perfuaded it would fwer well in many places about the foot of the long mounta i near Kingfton: an acre or two may be eafily tried in any parr, and the experiment will be well worth the labour; but who- (d) This I take to be rather the infufion of the half burnt flakes of new Coffee, (for it never will parch, or mix properly while frefh,) like that commonly ufed by the Coffee planters in Jamaica, than a decoction of the coverings, as it is com- monly reported to be.—This appears to be a miffake of Dr. Brown’s, when we conffaer the account given by the French, who travelled in Arabia Felix, who have very fully eeferibed the manner of making the Sultana Coffee. 26 The History of COFFEE. ever is for having greater crops, muft keep among the moun- tains, where the trees grow and (hoot out more luxuri- antly. Wherever this plant is cultivated, it {hould be planted at diftances proportioned to its growth ; for in a dry, gravelly, or mixed foil, it feldom rifes above five feet, and may be conve- niently planted within that diffance of each other. But among the mountains of Jamaica, where it frequently rifes to the height of nine or ten feet, or more, it requires a larger fcope, and in fuch a foil can bs hardly planted nearer than eight or ten feet from each other: I have, however, frequently known them crowded in fuch places, and yet produce a great quantity of fruit. The gentlemen of Jamaica imagine, that a great deal of the rrchnefs and flavour of the Turkey Coffee, depends upon their methods of drying it : but this is an ill-grounded notion, for the berries, as well as the trees, being naturally ffunted in their growth in moft parts of Arabia, they have but little pulp, and are very eaiily dried in that warm climate, where a few days fun generally eompleats the work, without being at the trouble of Gripping them of any part of their more juicy coats before- hand : but though I am fatisfled the Turkey Coffee receives no addition from any peculiar method of drying it; lam equally convinced that great quantities of that produced in the woody parts of Jamaica, where the berries are large and fucculent, and the feeds lax and clammy, are greatly prejudiced by the methods ufed there : fuch berries fhould be undoubtedly ffripped of a great part of the pulp,, and the feeds carried down to the low lands to be dried ; and not left foaking in their clammy juices, to dry but (lowly in a damp air, as they generally do in many parts, of that ifland: but this is no prejudice to the fale of it The History »/ COFFEE. 27 among the Northern purchafers, who generally look upon the largeft and fatteft grain as the bell; nor do they chufe it by any other marks than the plumpnefs of the feeds, and a frefh colour, which generally is a blueifh pale in new Coffee. Such as have large Coffee-walks, fhould be provided with a convenient barbakue, or platform, to dry thefe feeds more com- modioufly upon; and I think it would be well worth while to try whether Iweating would deflroy any of the clamminefs pe- culiar to the feeds of the larger berries ; but thefe fhould be al- ways pulped and dried as fbon as poffible; nor do I imagine but the eafe and fpeed whereby they might be dried in the low lands, would be a fufficient recompence for the trouble of car- rying them there as they are picked from the trees. After the fruit is well dried, it muff be hufked, and the feeds cleared from all the outward coverings, to fit and prepare them for the market. This is generally done in Jamaica, by pound- ing the dried berries lightly in large wooden mortars, until, after a long continued labour, both the dried pulp, and inward mem- braneous coverings, are broke and fall to pieces among the feeds. The whole is then winnowed, cleared, expofed afrefh to the fun for fome days, and then calked for the market. But the Ara- bians, after having dried their Coffee fufficiently on matts, fpread it on an even floor, and break off the covering, by pafiing a large weighty roller, of fome heavy wood or flone, to and fro upon it: and when the hufks are well broke in this manner, it is winnowed, and expofed to the fun anew, until it is very well dried; for otherwife it is apt to heat on hoard fhips, and then it lofes all its flavour. The drink prepared from the feed of this plant, is now gene- rally ufed all over Europe, and many parts of Alia and America ; it is generally efteemed as an excellent flomachicaad ftrengthener O LThe History of COFF E E. of the nerves ; and peculiarly adapted for ftudious and fedentary people. The plants are propagated by the feeds; and, to raife them fuccefsfully, the whole berries fhonld be fownfoon after they are gathered from the trees ; for if they be kept but a fhort time out of ground, they are apt to fail; but when the plants rife about five or fix inches above the earth, if double (as they generally are) they fhonld be feparated, which is done by drawing one or both, parting the roots, and planting them again in feparate beds.. When the young plants are removed from a bed. Dr from under the parent-tree, where they generally grow in great abun- dance, great care fhould be taken not to break or injure the roots, and to preferve the earth about them until they are re«- planted ; for if the fibres are expofed to the air, and allowed to dry, they are very fuhjefl to perifh ; which is the reafon they have not this beautiful tree more common in the gardens about the lower lands of Jamaica, where very few tranfplants of the kind thrive, being generally pulled up very bare, the layers laid by commonly for thirty or forty hours afterwards, and then car- ried a confiderable diftance in the heat of the fun; but fuch as. would have them profper well, fhonld be careful to procure plants that are well fupplied with mould from their native beds ; or to raife them immediately from the feeds. Extraß of a Letter from Dr. Fotliergill to j. Ellis, Efquire, F. R. S, ylgert for Dominica. Containing fome Remarks on the Culture and life of Coffee, Sept. 2. 1773. IT is doing a very ufeful piece of fervice, and I believe, an acceptable one to the publick, to make them a little better acquainted with Coffee, which now conftitutes fo confiderable a part of their entertainment, if not fuftenance. lam pleafed with the engraving of this very elegant plant ; it is executed in the beft manner of this able artift (e), and exaflly after the finifiled drawing he received. I have not time to coiieft, or relate with fufficient accuracy, the hiftory of this berry, fo far as it might be traced in the Aliatic hiftories : It has been ufed for ages. By the account which is fubjoined to the reflections I am going to make on this fubftance, it will appear, that it was introduced by the French into Martinico in the Weft Indies no longer ago than the year 1727that it has been ftnee that time propagated in almoft all the Weft India iftands, Englifii, French, and Dutch ; though it has not been cultivated by us with the attention it deferves. The greateft part of the Coffee now made ufe of in Europe is, I believe, the produce of the Weft Indies; at leaft,. the con- fumption of Mocha Coffee amongft us feems to be greatly re- duced Several years ago two (hips were fent out annually by the Eaft India Company; they now only fend one every two years for this article, if lam rightly informed; though at the lame time it may be prefumed a much larger quantity is confumed than, at any time heretofore. 0) J. S. Miller*. The History of C O F F E E. The French, and other nations, who have poffeflions in the Well Indies, fupply ns clandedinely with large quantities. It is true, we import a great deal of Raw Coffee from our own iflands; but the heft is of foreign growth. The French in particular cultivate it with great attention ; much likewife is brought from their Ead India fettlements. Thofe who are accudomcd to drink Coffee frequently, are fenfible of a very manifell difference between the Afiatic, the French, and American Coffee. The refreffing odour of the fird, and its grateful tafle, much furpafs the bed Wed India Coffee I have ever feen imported. There is fomething in the fmell, a rank- nefs in the fade, and difguding return, efpecially of that from the Engl iff idands, which makes it very unpleafant to thofe who have been accudomed to the bed Mocha Coffee. The tree that was fird carried to Martinico, a defend- ant of one from Batavia. The Dutch mod probably brought the plants to their colony from Mocha, and there feems no doubt but it is the true Arabian Coffee which is now cultivated in the Wed Indies. But if we refled upon the courfe it has taken, we may perhaps fee caufe to apprehend that it may have degenerated condderably. That part of Arabia from whence the Afiatic Coffee is brought, is for the moll part extremely Tandy, dry, and hot. At Batavia the Toil is in general rich and deep; and though, like other eadern climates, there is a dry feafon; yet in the rainy periods the quantity of wet that falls is excedive. The rich luxuriant date of vegetation in the idand of Java, on which Batavia is fituated, is a proof of this affertion ; and one may fafeiy infer, that a plant brought from a dry, derile, Tandy foil, will affume not only a very different appearance, hut its fruit will have a very different quality from that which is the The History of COFFEE. produce of a fertile, mo iff, foil, fubjedled to equal heat. It is not therefore improbable, but from this circumftance the plant brought from Batavia to the royal garden in France, and its iff lie tranfported to a climate much more abounding with moi- fture than that of which it was a native, may fo far have affumed another nature, as not eafily to be brought back to its original excellence. I wifh this circumftance however only to be confidered as a fuggeftion, which, though not without the appearance of pro* bability, may not be fufficiently warranted by experience. But fhould it prove true, it may lead us to one practicable method of meliorating Coffee. Let the Coffee be planted in a foil as fimilar to its natural one as poffible. Indeed the fhort account which is annexed to this letter, confirms my ap- prehenfions. The dryer the foil on which the Coffee grows, the fmaller is its fruit, and its quality more excellent. There are fome kinds of trees, perhaps the greateft part, whofe fruit, while the trees are young, is either more infipid, or the tafte of it lefs refined, than at a more advanced age. The fruit of young walnut trees is large ; but it is watery and inflpid ; as the tree grows older, the nuts decreafe in fize, but tiieir tafte is more agreeable. A fimilar progrefs may be obferved in many other fpecies; and it is not improbable but he Coffee-tree may be another inftan.ee of the like properties. It is certain, that in old Coffee-trees the fruit is fmaller; perhaps an accurate tafte would difeover that its flavour is improved in proportion. The expe- periment may be recommended to thofe who cultivate the Cof- fee-tree in our iflands. But I have not time to trace all the clr- cumftances that have a probable tendency to lefTen the value of oui own plantation Coffee.. The History of COFFEE. I haften to another point, which would foon put our planters xipon overcoming every difficulty, and would oblige them to ftudy the culture of the plant, the curing of the fruit, and fend- ing it to us in the higheft perfection poffible. By what means can we make it the Weft India planters intereft to cultivate Coffee in fuch a manner, as to approach in ta/te and flavour as near to the Afiatic as poffible ? Perhaps the fhortefl anfwer to this would be, make it their Intereft; that is, to encourage its importation. I am well informed, by a perfon intelligent in thefe matters, that the duties and excife on Coffee from the plantations, are as follows: £• The duty on Coffee of the growth of the Britifli'j plantations,for home confumption, is il. 13s.6JLd. i 004 per hundred weight; which is per lb. about J Excife on ditto, is, per lb. o 1 6 Total per lb. is o 110 When fuch an exceffive load of cxpences, and fo many diffi- culties arife to the grower, importer, and of confequence to the confumcr of Weft India Coffee, it is no wonder that the planters give themfelves very little concern about its cultivation. At prefent there is very little difference in the produce, and con- feqnently in the price ; the high duties are a bar to its ufe amongft us, the Coffee is in general bad, and the price in proportion. The History of C OFF E E. 33 This difcouragement renders them lefs felicitous about it: bad as it may be produced, it finds confumers abroad, and to vend it with certainty, anfwers their purpofe better than a more attentive cultivation of a commodity clogged with fuch duties. Thofe who know the tafte of Mocha Coffee, and are defirous of ufmg our Weft Indian, foon quit it with difguft. Better Coffee than our own, the produce of the French Ifles, finds its way into fome of the out-ports clandeftinely; is much ufed, and thought to be equal to the Turkey. Tafte is perhaps more the effed of habit than is generally admitted; of this, tobacco is the ftrongeft and firft inftance that occurs to me ; To a perfon unaccuftomed to it, the fineft is fcarcely tolerable. If the duties and excife upon Coffee were leflened, the con- fumption would be encreafed. Tafte would grow more refined; the heft would be fought for, and the price would be in pro- portion ; the prefent duties are almoft prohibitory. It may be worth one’s while to view the effeds of thefe high duties in a political light—l mean in refped to this article. For a century to come, it is perhaps more than probable, that the people of this country will, for one meal at leaft, make ufe of either Tea, Coffee, or Chocolate; I fpeak of the generality. Tea, at prefent, takes the lead : whence it comes, its hiftory, properties, and ufes, have been fo fully explained, that I fnall fay nothing here upon the fubjed (y). It is a queftion often propofed to phyficians, which is beft, Tea* or Coffee ? The folution of this point would perhaps be a difficult one. We neither find the Chincfe or Turks fubjeded (/) See Dr, Letfom on. the Tea Plant* Tie History of COFFEE. 34 to any fuch difcriminating effedls, as enable the faculty to fay, with precifion, that one is more injurious than the other. For my own part, I leave it to the experience of individuals. To fome people Coffee is difagreeahle; they charge it with produc- ing nervous complaints. Tea is not without fimilar accufations. It fcems as if the human frame was, however, fo happily con- ftru&ed, that it is lefs in the power of fuch things to afFedt it, than might at firft light be imagined. The animal powers are apparently fuch, as can convert almofl oppofite principles to its benefit, if ufed in any degree of moderation : fome drink Coffee almofl to excefs, and condemn Tea as injurious; and fo Coffee is treated in its turn. Thefe are proofs, however, how few people are capable of making proper inferences from experi- ment. I think neither Coffee nor Tea afford any very material fup~ port; that is, contain very little nutriment: they are rather the vehicles of nourilhment, than nutritious of themfelves : themofl that can be expedled from them in general is, that they are grateful, and very little injurious. Cuflom has adopted them both; and it becomes us to make them as ufeful to ourfelves, and as fubfervient to public good, as may be in our power. China, that fupplies us with Tea, is remote; the navigation long and dangerous; the climate not always favourable to our feamen; indeed, all long voyages are injurious, and the hotter the climate the worfe. As a nation, a commercial nation, whole accommodations depend on this ufeful race of people, we cannot, as friends to humanity, wifh to promote the confump- tion of thofe articles, which are introduced at fo great an ex- pence of ufeful lives. Coffee from our own plantations is in this refped much preferable to Tea ; the voyage is fhorter, the fbe History of C OFF E E. 35 rifque is lefs. Suppofing then, that Tea and Codec are alike, in refpeCl to real ufefulnefs.; that one is not inferior to tlie other in refpeCl: to the health of the confumers: fuppofe, likevvife, that the difadvantage with refpeCt to the lives of the feamen were equal, which however is not the cafe, there is one material difference that ought to turn the fcale in favour of the more general ufe of Coffee. It is raifed byour fellow-fubjeCb, and paid for with our manufactures. Tea, on the contrary, is paid for principally with money. The quantities of Britifh goods which the Chinefe take from us is inconfiderable, when compared with the quantities we pay for in bullion. The Chinefe take from us every article which they can turn to national benefit; and whatever enables them to improve their manufactures. Eefidcs Raw Silk, and a few other articles of lome little ufe in our own manufactures, mod; other things im- ported from thence we can do without, cfpecially if the confump- tion of our Coffee was encouraged. Were the duties and excife upon Coffee, for inftance, reduced to a quarter part, more than double the quantity would be confumed. Was the confump- tion greater, the planters would find it their intereft to cul- tivate the trees with more attention. Increafed demand would increafe the price; and as more came to market, the beib would fell dearer than an inferior kind. Thefe muff be the certain effeCls of increafed demand. There is another consideration of fome moment likewife; which is, that the cultivation of Coffee might be carried on in fuch manner, as the leffer planters might fubfiff by it; and a few The History of C O F F E E. fimilar articles, cotton particularly, with little flock, and without much expence for Negroes. No little planter can make fngar to advantage. The expence of Negroes, cattle, mills,, and other requifites of a fugar plantation, are beyond his reach. If he has any landed property, by one means or another, he is often obliged to fell it to his richer neighbour; and to re- move to fome other country, lefs unfavourable to contracted circumftances. Thus the iflands are gradually thinned of the white inhabitants; they become lefs able to quell the infurreclioifts of their Negroes, or to oppofe any hoftile invafion. The annexed account of Coffee anticipates fome remarks, I meaned to have (poke to more fully, which had often occurred to me. The writer of that (hort account has not, however, wholly exhaufted the fubjeCt. He very juftly defcribes many circumflances which tend to make Wed: India Coffee of Ids value than the European. He is very right in his obferva- tions on the difference of quantity produced in different foils and dtuations. He mod: pertinently cenfures the Englifh for want of care in (hipping it home. The French exceed us vadly in this refpeCt; and the greater price it fetches, is owing in a great degree to fuperior care and management. One would hardly fuf- pedl the merchants and planters could be capable of fo much inattention as to (hip Coffee in vdfels loaded with Rum and coarfe Sugars; articles capable of communicating a tafte fcarce to be driven off by fire : fo penetrating are the (teams arifing. from Rum and Sugars confined in a (hip’s hold. So much Coffee ought to be collected together at one place, as to load a vedel. It is objected likewife, that the Coffee in the Wed: India iflands tfhe History of COFFEE. 37 cannot eafily be dried in a proper manner, from the great moifture of the air. But there are in all the iflands high grounds, to which the Coffee might be brought and dried fufficiently. Another point ought not to be omitted, which is, that our plantation Coffee is made ufe of too foon. Perhaps one part of the excellence of Mocha Coffee arifes from this circumftance—The Eaft India Company fend a fhip once in two years: it is mod probable a part of the loading has been kept in that hot, dry country above a year: it is fix months before it arrives in Eng- land ; it may be fix or twelve months more before it comes into the confumer’s hands. Thus, between two and three years muff inevitably intervene between its growth and confumption. Much of that mucilage, which mod: probably in reading is the bads of its flavour,, is changed by this delay; and indeed expe- rience confirms it.. Befides many inftances that might be given from credible wit- neffes, (and efpeeially from governor Scott’s account of this fubjedf, hereunto annexed) the following pafled under my own obfervation, and, as far as it reaches,.may be conclufive. I had a prefent made of feveral kinds of raw Coffee from the Weft India iflands; it being known that I wifhed to encourage the culture of this plant, for the reafons I have alledged. Some of this Coffee, which a year ago was fo ill tafted as to be unfit for ufe, was laid in a very dry clofet: this year it was again tried, and found to be greatly amended; in another. It will probably be little inferior to the Afiatick, if it amends in proportion. It is= of much confequence whether the Coffee is imported with other goods, or alone ; whether it is kept in moift, damp warehoufes,. or in dry, airy places; whether it is ufed immediately, or not tllT after it has been kept a confiderable time. It would be well- worth tlie planter’s labour and expence, to keep his Coffee in the- Th History of C OF F E E. [{land from year to year, till he has got fuch a quantity, either of his own, or bought from his neighbours, fufficient to load a fmall veffel ; marking the different ages. But the whole of this depends entirely on government. Leffening the duty would en- creafe the confumption ; prevent fmuggling; enable many whites to gain a comfortable fupport, and to pay for our manufactures. As it is raifed by our own people, imported with lefs rifque of feamens health and lives,in apolitical light,it muft certainly deferve the deliberate attention of the leglflature. Coffee made in the following manner is plcafing to mofb peo- ple, and is much preferable to Tea, or to Coffee made in the ufual manner, for breakfaff Let Coffee be made in the ufual man- ner, only a third part ftronger; let as much boiling milk be added to the Coffee before it is taken from the fire, as there is water; let it fettle; drink it with cream, or without, as may be mold agreeable. And were the poor and middling people enabled to procure this, it would be much more nourishing and beneficial, than the wretched beverage they indulge themfelves with of the moft ordinary Teas. Very little fugar ought to be ufed with Coffee; on weak ftomachs it is too apt to become acid, if made fweet: and this is one reafon why many people forbear drinking Coffee. Ido not prefume to fettle this important quef- tion, which is preferable, Tea or Coffee ? This muff he left to the experience of individuals. So far as concerns myfelf, I may be permitted to become evidence. Though I like Tea, I found it not quite favourable to my health, from fome circumfiances. I tried Coffee, made in the manner above-mentioned, and have drunk it almoff confiantly many years, without receiving any inconvenience from it. The History of COFFEE. It may require a good deal of phyfical fagacity to determine how far the French cuftom of drinking Coffee immediately af- ter dinner is right ; but I think it can admit of no difpute whe- ther a difh of Coffee or a bottle of wine may then be lefs preju- dicial to health. I think however it is lefs injurious to drink Coffee immedi- ately after dinner, than later in the evening ; and at lead for one very obvious reafon. Coffee mod certainly promotes watchfulnefs 5 or, in other words, it fufpends the inclination to deep. To thofe therefore who willi not to be too fubjeft to this inclination, Coffee is un- doubtedly preferable to wine, or perhaps to any other liquor we know. The indances of perfons to whom Coffee has this antilbpo- riflc effedt are very numerous. And the indances are almod as numerous of fuch to whom wine has the opposite effedl. To attribute the livelinefs of the French, after their re- pads, to this beverage, would be highly hypothetical. But I trunk it mud be acknowledged that, after a full meal, perhaps of grofs animal food, even a mere diluent is much preferable to wine ; which, whild it gives a temporary flow of animal /pi- nts, rather oppofes that neceflary aflimilation which nature aims at in the offices of digeflion. Was Coffee fubflituted indead of the bottle immediately after dinner, it feems more than probable that many advantages would flow from it, both to the health of individuals, and gene- ral oeconomy; and it feems not improbable but by deferring Coffee or Tea fo late as is ufually pradlifecl, we interrupt di- gedion, and add a new load of matter to that already in the The History of COFFEE. ftomach, which, after a full meal, is not a matter of indiffe- rence. On the contrary, ever fince I was capable of forming an opinion on fubjefts of this nature, I could not forbear think- ing, that the ufe of Tea in an afternoon, at the time and in the manner it has generally been praftifed, is exceedingly pre- judicial to many perfons ; and if many have efcaped without feeling any prejudicial effefts, they may juftly aferibe it to the firmnefs of their conftitution ; I was almoft tempted to fay, to their good fortune. This matter, I own, is capable of much difpute ; and the more fo, as minute diftinflions mu ft be called .to the aid of both parties. I cannot however conclude theft remarks, without repeating the fubftance of what I could wifh to inculcate; that in refpeft to real ufe, and as a part of our food, I have no evidence to in- duce me to think that Coffee is inferior to Tea. That, in refpefl to national oeconomy, the benefit of our co- lonies, and the lives of the feamen, every circumftance concurs to give Coffee the preference. It is raifed by our fellow fub- jefls, paid for by our manufactures, and the produce ultimately brought to Great Britain. That the great obftacle to a more general ufe of Coffee is the very high duty and excift. That leflening the duty would not leffen the revenue ; fmug- gling would be difeouraged, and an increafed confumption would make up the deficiency to the treafury. That the planters would be induced to cultivate Coffee with more care, was there a better market for it. That, as little planters might be enabled to fubfift by raifing Coffee, Scc. their numbers wrould increafe, and add to the The History of COFFEE. 41 flrength of the feveral iflands; as Europeans might endure the labour requifitc for the cultivation of Coffee. I have fubjoined the tranflation of a paper communicated to me by Governor whofe unwearied endeavours to pro- mote the interefl of Great Britain and her colonies deferves every grateful acknowledgement; and likewife the copy of a letter I received long fince from the late Governor Scott of Dominica ; I perfuade myfelf, that evidences like thefe will have fome weight with the public. Should any part of thefe remarks afford my friend reafbn to think they may contribute to the benefit of the community, he is at liberty to make ufe of them in what manner he pleafes. J. Fothergill. Observations on Coffee, by a learned and experienced Planter at The Grenades, communicated to DoElor Fothergill, by Governor Melville Tranjlated from the French* SEVERAL perfons in Europe imagine, that a much better kind of Coffee might be gathered, in our Iflands, than that which is ufually brought from thence. There is no doubt of this, and our inhabitants are very fenfible of it; but the ever- powerful motive of intereft prevents them from endeavouring to improve the produce of this plant. They learn from experience, that a light foil, dry and elevated Hopes, produce Coffee of a fmaller berry, and more delicate fla- vour ; and that all the Coffee which grows in a low, fertile, and jnoift foil, is bad, the berry large and flat, and almoft infipid. Experience alfo teaches them, that trees planted in thefe foiL yield commonly from 12 to 16 ounces of Coffee per plant; in the other foils they fcarcely furnifh more than from 6 to 8 ounces ; this makes an immediate difference of one half in the weight. Now in France, England, and all the European markets, the only ftated difference in the price of the fmall well-prepared Coffee, and that which is larger and of the word: kind, is from 15 to 2© per Cent. The inhabitants therefore would neceffarily And it their advantage to plant their Coffee-trees in the richefc foil; and thofe perfons only will have the fmall and fine Coffee, who have no other than bad grounds, and have not a fufficient num- ber of Negroes to manure and improve them. The History The calculation is eafily made: with an equal number of plants double the weight is produced ; and by the difference of price no more is 101 l than from 15 to 20 per Cent. Intereff hath therefore prevented our inhabitants from applying themfelves to the culture of that kind of Coffee which is moft valued in Eu- rope. To excite a proper emulation among them, the difference of price between the various forts of Coffee ffiould be as confider- able as it is between the feveral kinds of Sugar. To thefe conflderations we may add, that the trees laft a much longer time in the fertile grounds, and that they need not be tranfplanted fo frequently. Some fkilful perfons have advifed to follow the method of the Arabs, with refpedt to the preparation of Coffee, in two particu- lars ; firft, never to gather it till it is perfedlly ripe ; fecondly, to dry it in the fhade, when feparated from the pulp. The laft of thefe is fcarce poffible; becaufe, although the air is very hot in thefe climates, it is always fo damp, that we know from experience the Coffee could never be dried in the fhade fuffi- ciently for exportation into Europe. The firft would be very ufeful, and even poffible, if other perfons were employed in the bufinefs than Negroes, who, being lazy, ignorant, and generally ill-difpofcd, either cannot, or will not, attend properly to this particular; and have no other wiffi but to finifh their work as faft as poffible, either to get rid of the talk impofed upon them, or to avoid punifhment. Befides, the feafon for gathering the Coffee being near the winter, the rain a, which are then very frequent, often make the berries fall before they are perfectly ripe. As to the hiftory of our Coffee, it certainly comes originally from Babel Mandel. Tire firft tree that was brought to Martinico m 1727, or 1728, by Mr. Delicti, came from the gardens of his 44 T&e History 0/ C O F F E E. Mod Chriftian Majefty, and was of the fame fpecies as that which kat Batavia. This tree was planted near to Port Royal, in a fertile rnoift foil, and almoft level with the fea, fix that the fpecies muft neceflarily have degenerated. All the lower clafs of people in Martinico before this time cultivated the Cocoa ; but, by a contagion, as difficult to account for, as the effect of it was general, all the Cocoa-trees perifhed in 1727. The inhabitants, half ruined, after having tried feveral fchemes, refolved at laft to plant Coffee; and the French Eaft India Company having lowered the duties, this cultivation was much encouraged. The French are in general more cautious in the exportation of their Coffee than, the Englifh; they put it into calks that are very dry 1 in the Windward Iflands, where the heft Coffee is made, the velfel is neither laden,with Raw Sugars, nor with Rum; Clayed Sugars only are exported with it, which are of little detriment to this berry.. The captains take care allb to place it between decks,, or in fome other very dry part of the Ihip. The Englifh, on the contrary, flow Raw Sugars and Rum in almoft every part of the velfel. Thefe do a conftderable injury to the. Coffee that lies near them. There is another more diftant caufe, that few people have no- ticed, but which contributes greatly to the badnefs of the Coffee exported into England. Moft of the Euglilh Ihips are hired for the freight; the cap- tains flow the goods as they receive them; and the owners are fatisfied, if the velfel is but well filled. It is a matter of little concern to them, whether the feveral kinds ot goods have been properly difpofed, or whether they have received any de- triment by lying near each other. The French Ihips are gene- rally laden for the proprietors own uft ; the captains buy the The History of C O F F E E. 45 goods (hemfelves; and, that they may be able to give a proper account of their management, and to fhew that they have a&ed with prudence and caution, they are obliged to pay great atten- tion to the ftowage of their veflel, and to the prefervation of their cargoes. Hence it follows, that the Coffee which is carried to France is better than that which is brought to England. 46 Tbe History of COFFEE. ExtraEl of a Letter from George Scott, Efq. late Lieutenant Governor of Dominica, to Dr. Fothergill. S I R, Government Houfe, Ifland Dominica, Nov. 2.1 1765. 1%/rR. I■ i a confiderable planter of Grenada, touched at this ifland on his way thither; and, in the courfe of his in- telligence, having made me acquainted with your patriotic efforts for encouraging the growth and produce of the infant colonies lately ceded to us by France; and being very defirous of throw- ing in my mite towards forwarding your very laudable labours; I have therefore taken the liberty of putting on board the fhip Neptune, Edmund Stevenfon mafler, under the care of Mr. Beats, of London, in a box directed for yourfelf, three fmall bags of Coffee, which you will do me the favour to accept, trifling as they are, though I have not the honour of your acquaintance, as they are only intended for whatever experiments you may think proper to make of them. The little bag marked N° i. was gathered in the year 1760; that marked N° 2. in 1763, and N° 3. lafb year: all the growth of this ifland, Vv'hich is looked upon to make the beft Coffee in the Weft Indies, excepting that of the ifland of Mary Gallant ; and on the Weft fide of the ifland of Martinique, on the moun- tains oppofite the Diamond Rock; which Coffee the French al- ways gave the preference to, though the inhabitants of this ifland The History o/ COFFEE. prefer their own, which they always make life of for their break- faft, taking equal quantities of it and boiled milk (or, more pro- perly fpeaking, milk that is fealded), and after their dinner they commonly drink a cup of Coffee without milk; and they have in general excellent health, and a fine flow of fpirits, for this part of the world: whereas the Englifh fubjefts, whom it is difficult to wean from prejudices, ftill perfift in the ufe of Tea 3 and, though they enjoy a good flate of health, do not appear to have half the vivacity or livelinefs with the French in the fame Aland with us. I am told, that in England they ftamp a value upon Coffee in proportion to the fmallnefs and greennefs of the grain ; here they regard neither the fize nor colour of it for their own ufe, but efteem it in proportion to the time it has been gathered, and for having been kept in a dry warm place, and expofed to the air three or four times a year; and the greater number of years it is kept in this manner, the better it is, they fay. They alfo aferibe a great deal of its excellence to the method of preparing it for us 1 if it is over roafted, it has a flat, bitter, and burnt tafle ; and if it is not roafted enough, though the Coffee (hould be five or fix years old, it will tafte as if it had been gathered this year: but if it is old and well roafted, and immediately covered up fmoaking hot in a bowl or cup, to prevent the fine volatile particles and flavour from going off : if then, when cold, it is ground and made pro- perly, with boiling gooff water, it is looked upon to be in its higheft perfection. The better fort of French, in all the iflands, make a practice of taking a cup of equal parts, Coffee and fealded milk, with a cruft of bread, almoft as foon as they get out of bed in a morning; and the reafons they give for this cuftom are, that it clears the brain, enlivens the fenfes, cleanfes the ftomach, throws off any rheum or fortuitous matter that may be lodged about The History of C OF F E E. the head, ftomach, or lungs, from foul air or putrid vapours. And they likewife fay, that it prevents, and even cures, the gravel. The Turks alio fet the higheft value upon good Coffee, on account of its exhilarating qualities, and brightening the animal fpirits. Surely then it muft be preferable to Tea, which has quite contrary eife&s in moft fhapes whatever; and it muft, in my humble opinion, be one ofthe beft breakfafts in theworld, for the honeft, brave people 01 the foggy ifland of Great Britain, where fuch a multitude of melan- choly accidents happen from a lownefs of fpirits. But what effects Coffee or Tea have upon the body or mind, you. Sir, muft be the beft judge, as it is your principal ftudy and profeflion to know the ceconomy of the human frame; mine having been ever that of arms, and at prefent to preftde over this ifland ; from whence I will with pleafure fend you annually as much Coffee, of whatever fort you like, as you may want for your own ufe, while I remain here; being very much (though unknown) Sir, your moft obedient kumble fervant. George Scott. P. S- The method of curing Coffee through the Weft Indies is, by palling it through a mill after it is ripe and gathered; and after this operation, it is put into clfterns and covered with water for ten or twelve hours, until the pulp becomes loofe, when it is wafhed, and the Coffee, being in its hufks„ is thrown in heaps to fvveat, and that the water may drain off, for two or three days iiiore, when it is fpread abroad and dried in the fun; and when dry, is put into troughs, and pounded with rammers, until all The History of C OF F E E. 49 the hulks (or parchment, as they call it) are beat off, when it is winnowed in the air, and expofed in the fun until it is perfedly dry, and then carried to market. The Coffee I fend you, in the little bag marked N° 3, is fome of a fmall quantity I got one of the planters to make for me after the method of Mocha; which, as I am informed, is by fweating and drying it in the fhade, after it is paffed through the mill, and muft, in my opinion, be infinitely preferable to leaking it in water, and drying it in the fun, which certainly muft extrad abundance of its virtues; particularly that fins flavour good Coffee has, which is fo grateful to the fmell when it is firft poured out. This little bag, I believe, you will find very- good, though it has not been cured above ten months: and if there was enough of it to keep for three or four years, I imagine it would be perfedly excellent; for this method muft certainly be the heft, and I have endeavoured to perfuade many of the planters to come into it; but the great expence they muft be at to ered buildings to cover it from the fun and rain, while it would be cur- ing ; the great labour and time it takes to cure it after the manner of Arabia, and the fmall price it bears at prefent, will not as yet permit them to come into it; though I am fully perfuaded that the Coffee of this ifland is full as good, when pulled off the tree, as any in Arabia, was it but cured after the fame method; which I doubt not the planters will adopt, fliould the price of Coffee rife, fo as to encourage them in the undertaking. G. S. Letter from a Merchant of London to J. Ellis, Bfq% JP. R. S. Agent for Dominica., Dear Sir, Sept. 4, 1773. I HAVE heard with pleafure, that you are preparing for the public fome obfervations on Coffee, with a view to promote in this country a more general confnmption of what is produced of that valuable article in our colonies. I am perfuaded the Weft India planter will find, in your pub- lication, many ufefuL hints for improving the quality of his Coffee. But I muft beg leave to remark to you, that it is in vain to think of extending that trade, while the duties, on and after im- portation, continue fo very confiderable, Ido not however mean to difcourage you. For though the. times are unfavourable for propofing the reduction of any tax ; X truft there are gentlemen in adminiftration who will countenance fueh a meafure, when juftice to a part, and, the good of the whole community require it. And I conceive this to be a cafe of that nature. The duties I have mentioned. were voted at % time when the culture of the Coffee-plant was unknown in our illands, and when the cpnfumption was fupplied intirely from ; Arabia. It might then be reafonable to confider it merely as an article of luxury. But circumftances are now greatly altered. The iflands acquired by the late peace, and Dominica in particu- lar, have large plantations of the. Coffee-tree, and the planters are. v/eli fkilled in the cultivation of it. They could furnifh the pre— The History of COFFEE. 51 fent confumption, and any further quantity that might be wanted. 1 know that, a few years lince, the excite on foreign Coffee was raifed for the encouragement of the Britifii iflands. But the duty and excife on our own were left as before which are fo con- flderable, as to reftrain the middling and common people, who alone make a large confumption, from the ufe of it. The French in this feem to have underftood their intereft better ; their Coffee pays but a fmall duty, and Tea is fcarce heard of among them. It might be fo in this country, did we not make that article, as well as Chocolate, dearer than Tea, by difproportionate and enor- mous duties; which otherwife would be fold as cheap, and pro- bably be the means of preventing, in a great meafure, the expor- tation of our bullion to China [