Lagoa, Santa Catharina February 25 1920 , Dear a | Here are two inten sabemetinne: lakes with a sharp ange of granite hills to the east, falling off negligently to the north to let in the fish into these lakes, and at the ‘south to let in the cold rains from the Argentine, Behind _ us the hille on the west-- we are in a flat sand lagoon == and if we had. a glimpse of surf I think the sunrises here wid be about as fine as anything I have ever seen, It comes so suddenly here, the dawn is so Clean too, and the colors are verything you can think of, with distant ieland-mountains, bamboo and banana greenness, and fish jumping out.of misty ; fdame pink water, It.1s good to climb up on. the railing of the crude bridge across the narrowest part of the lagoon, and while everything is still bright pink can! breezes just beginning eave. the. blanket, behind, see the fish below you scatter ‘el that short but priceless flash before youre in the water,. and crash in for a small swim before the, 'gente' begin to arrive and you play the role of sanhor doutor once more, I do like the in-theeair part of diving-- you never. get enough of it, OF spent @ liberal and very. agreeable evening, in the U.S, last nicht for the simple reason that I decided yesterday to give up any idea of going there till at least a year from now.! Istt that. an odd thing, that when you give something up you get it in all its, pleasant. flavor. of. an evening, and if you refuse: to give it up you dont have it at @ll, Quite a. trite lesson to learn at this advanced age, I suppose=~ ‘but the age you: learn it at doesnt make any diff- ence after all. Mhat a funny thing twould be to be brought up With - would be out -_~ sense of what was ola-- and v9 nothing, ip gam 8 mished by noral: bromide, cant accept the: invitation to join much as I should like to, But the Rocky Mountains have one advantage that I have always been keen about-- they feel your own 48 you Look at thei and you dont have to discount any of your pride be- cause they may belong to some one else, And besides that they are very clean and cool and make you feel as if the air. wa8 all through you as well as all around, and they dont allow a stuffy feeling, like waking up in a Ppullm@ana car, ‘There ia a place I am going to see when. I wet home; it is on top of Cameron "s Cone and I am going to ‘take a donkey and camp there 5 week and cvry morning I can watch the sun rise over Colo- u nado springs and the plains and the evenings I can look at — * eet Peak or dom in Crystal Park in the nice purple cloaming that it used to have when I was a kid, The delightful part of this idéa is that Lam going’todo it, rather wish I was in the Tyrol or the Dolomites or better in Vienna apending ay time on ‘people who have had some’ fun out of civilised life and dont. want to lose it all, here it isa little different for they have. never had any civiifzation® and I am sceptical about the possibilities of their being able to carry it, Like shaving , tov which bare _ barism was originally contrasted, civilization takes a cere tain amount of daily energy, and I am doubtfull if itis worth the time with the people who havent already gotten ‘the idea, and’ somewhat into practise, I get very low at the news fron abroad, I would rather. be over in At again, | | “Dont adopt two neurotic Jew babies, Eleanor, that's flying in the face of their instincts, They , Like to be in | higher dilutions-~ one in twenty or fifty is about right-- then ‘the neurottener they are the better, but they'll be very - domifugal if you have ‘ein too crowded, You ouhgt to get a wee © - geot with yaller fuzz 80 ‘st the Jew'll be misunderstood in his childhood even if you cant ‘misunderstand him, that good dey understanding for an artist-= it ruins en, Your plan reminds me of | a saying at the Rodi oat School "Oh: well everybody has hia pet yew", Which despite the Middle Ages and many trips to New York on ty and all ake other examples of race hatred I think of 1s still true, and the funny part of it is that we like our one pet Jew quite a lot; and feel very warn and liberal about it all, I Inow afer. i like a lot but like Anericans end Mnglish and Freneh and G ermans 5 they are apt to pave friands you cant care 80 much for, . we eae heat down here in this little place nearly a, week and have dene alnost nothing ate all ensues the people are isconfiado and are sure that there ie a string to this | chari ty somewhere, So I have lost all my natives to be amused at and life has been very very slow, The sun is amazingly. ine tense at noon and we have to pile out across @ long field of — mandioca to get to a dirty little store where we have bananas and hot chicken soup and jerked beef and weal lemon pop and coffee and very tough rolls, 8o that after the return journey --end 1 hate to always walk in a slow aimless digesting sort of way after every meal--we all fall on our cots and sleep, while the sun rolls across the. north of the sky and finally the afternoon breeze sto rts up. People in the U.S, only guess at the stupidity and backwardness of these countries-- it is hard to imagine that if your best friend was bitten by & rattle snake you would not be able to get 7 dollars to buy a syringe to cure hin-- but no; the people leave all that and shrug their shoulders, saying that they are very poor,-- and the next day he is much worse, They refuse evrything but what is put in their hands and use even that sparingly, The esdivac has just arrived to pay a call, He pays one each day and says "Entao como vae?" and then sits around for half an hour or so saying nothing at all, which gets to me sooner or later and I start typewriting again and he watches for about ten minutes and then g0es out and talks to my wen, who are not bothered by a@ silence that is unhappy and a speech thht says nothing at all, It is a country where you talk not as some Bay to revert the sooner to silence, but for the fora Be Voy gen va Ts is iy, he nse tel < — le Tony es — “ae oe ne se. a be « ie 4s , the choice of words and the oratorical beauty of it all, » rae ee ete a py snes ont de % Whe : ~ mn an ek oe & mawnmeent Ae ea ey conte 2 on cy & he: Uuties and Wealtn OL ora Z41 a Or sSscrcanilns jc PGWLAUS Cape at & ee %. me é“ whe pi yan, oy % de ey ; » ea on “a a — : “es ¢* ines “%, a * the politicians who talk and do nothing! So I take to work and all evening long the noise of tneir arguments xeepe me from falling asleep over ite-- but to listen to it - 2 a nip ana #hanteo my a Vee te eae ee, Good luck and thanks for the letter hee * . oS ae , i ot metal ose aS = Gite Lagoa February 26 1920 “Mite, Nerds: t am on the norhh side of this: house and it in the quiet and rapidly getting hotter kind of a morning with everything very ereen and pleasant looking but the air very very close, We are waiting to clear out and-around the porch: of the old wireless sta- tion which we have used for a laboratory are. still the victims of this. mornings treatment frat tine round for their final dose, The auto- mobile will come over ‘the hill agout three hours: from now an@ my trip to Rio will soon be beginning, Hurray for that trip to Rio! Bamboo here grows in big feathery clusters called ban- - poozals which are a perfect: paradise for birds aif tase: noise they make fron the cool green inside is anything to go. bys ‘There is one that they call Alma de Gato or Soul of a Cat which 18 just like a kitten sr round halt lost and. half enjoying it. Then gira _ there are a lot of perfect; wonderful humming birds of all colors and in a field nearby gone wonderfully tame pheasants-- so that it is rather pleasant to sit out in all this Pleasant weather and see the birds in a bamboozal Like pate, I am completely bpamboozaled by te Well, wouldnt-it be a nice thing to find you in Rio when I get there, 7. you would be bored to. tears there is 80 little to @ao as to theatres and dances etc, but you would like it when the new moon shines down there and all the smell of the tropical plants and all the bright plaster houses and all the strange part of it struck you, The beauty of it is hard to bear at tlmese- it really te | = I am getting so used to Brazil now that a lot of it doesnt geem strange to me anymore, But I am & long way. from thinking of staying here for good, The people are not amusing and not being “among my own people at all gets tiresome after a good long while, But I havent seen any thing like the Brazil I waht to see before going home and it may be. that 12 have a tes adventures yet before I turn home, I hope so, _ The good old cigarette holder continues to hola out in splen-— . * ‘ : tt - i ‘ * rd s Re tee Bae GS ge! 2 ‘ : es Ces eee: an ae cs ee dor and usefulness and gathers compliments unto its giver evry little while, I am still looking for something to fit neatly over your fet neck or put more aip if it were possible into that cute little face of yours-- Gosh it will be a long time before I forget it and that's the truth, Why arent you there in Rios--waiting for me in white silk at the International for dinner up there on. the terrace above the bay! Damn it I wish Brazil wasnt such a rotten place for girls to stay ine- and there'd be more here, as you might say. I BAY? just had a half hour's symptoms from & local beauty-+ and I am glad the Americans dont come if that is the result of Brazil on vinmmen. ; a I F p November 20th 192vu Conceicgao de Arroie Rio Grande do Sul This has been a grand day nf travel, Tomorrow I shall see crocodiles and pink flamingoes, but today I have seen white cranes and little wild ostriches 61.208 here avestruzes, and I think in our Grngraynsee. omg, ‘Yesterday I got up at 5 in the grande Hotel in Porto Allegre said goodbye to a youth named MeGurk with whom - haa been rooming and took a nigger-driven barouche to a funny Little wharf owned by one Edmundo Dreher, There was a queer little side-wheeler the Camaquam, which consisted of a Captains wheéi house and cabin | con- bined, and a large stateroom filled by the clothes fo an old couple about 75, and a lower deck which was ange and dining saloon com- bined in back and engine and poiler rpom in tront and cargo space in the middle, Thus coming down the stairs one e landed on sacks of salt and cans of Standard oil or Brindilla kerosene, to your left standing bored Looking mulatto engineers and to the right a saloon Tull of gente arriving, A curious sne11 of lemons leather and oil, All aay we sidewheeled ‘varough mud eerored water, I FORGE ng and thus greatly Ampressing some of une passengers who see a book -very rrely, Brazil in a year importe vhe printed matter that. Argent- ine takes in a nonth, and Argentine only 8 million to Brazil's 20 or 25, At por do sol or sun set we peacefully ran on a bar, and witn no swearing trom the Captain nor impatience fron the passengers quietely settled down to chicken soup and beans and. rice, “three kinds of beef ,and coffee, then the leading citizen on board told about a recent experience of his in being among, ‘hose poisoned by arsenic, and a stern fat woman unravelled the motives of the cul- prit to her om satisfaction and to a dumb audience, the first citizen being too canny to interrupt her, I very soon went to sleep on the lounge and woke be “occasionally to see all my frineds in all the usually agonized positions sleeping and snoring. Possibly the ; least artistic thing in the world, By seven o'clock we were sliding up a still river over-hung with Low:flat trees with long wavy grey moss on the lower side of the branches and cactus, orchids and gravata on the upper side-- loking like a big tangle oi everything green all the way up to the top, there were lots of blue herron and a bright green jagged-backed young crocodile who didn’ "t _ move enough to make me sure I have seen a live one 9d There was a bird on ine reeds, jet black with a tnick finch _ beak and a crest and head as bright a scarlet as you could imagine. After many curves we came up along a big crude stores building along: the and I got out thinking it was Palmares, There were @ dozen or 60 big two-wheel oxcarts, wheels z vhink the broadest and largest I have ever seen and thatched with rushes woven in a broad arch, with an cow-hide untanned over one end, It is used for all the heavy carriege } here and is aram by six pairs of oxen all sbung out in a Line of pairs, a horseman or two to take care of the affair with a long pole, They oil the axles here so” you dont — the unending squeaking and ‘humming of the carro de boi of the North, on asking for Dr George Roy an engineer to whom I had a letter from the Sectreary of State (rast company these days t) I was told by a very pretty and fearfully bashful. little Dutch girl that le was la adiante and 80 I went vo find him, Sure enough Cae came a short little Frenchman speaking such terrific Forsuguene that I asked him to say it ‘in French which he was only too glad to do and we had 8 grand time, He has been in one place or another fp 26 years outside of France-- several years in Tonkin with the French Chinese "empire builders" and then in wexico the last en in the Argentine except for uhe war time when he was in France, A very cheerful soul indeed who was awfully nice to me and took very good care of my food and drinks, He waved me nto his quarters with a erenn geswure put found a hen nesting on the bed which he was too kindhearted to shoo out, and who watched me shave in the noncommital attentive way that hens have, but laid no eggs for almogo in spite of my polite silence, Dr George Roy 4s the Chefe of a railroad which the French are building here-- | perhaps the the queerest I have ever seen, The guage is 60 cm, which makes the width of the cars just wide enough for two people and &@ tiny passageway, The engine wouldnt work, so we had dinner, and then afterwards the Spanish Chief Engineer, (he had one muiatto helper to distinguish him thus) sent in word as happy as a kid at Ghristmas that the engine would work after all, Dr George was not to be #e2 fooled, and had three mules hithshed to a buckboard as un antec corde de mon arc and amidst a perfectly gratu- itous and luxurious whistle we set off over the green pak- prairie in the rain, sitting up on tkwo benched right behind the engine, Numerous birds started up very near as the road has not been running very long, and @he excited pleasure of the engineer and the’ Superintendent of Construct- ion grew simply boundless as’ we passed the tenth kilometer without a breukdowm, and perhaps ten yards ahead’ of the mules, We suddenly realised we needed more water-- out jumped the ‘engineer and raked out half the fire’ while the fireman clattered down ‘he track to borrow a bucket at the last ranch we'd passed, Then for twenty minutes they emtied muddy water into the machina, and ‘soon we went away again, leter to meet a deserted engine and a few'cars on the track, Out we got again, and dumped’ the cars off the track, and decided to push the engine in front, Suddenly we came to the end of the line, The cambbn that had come wo newt ius :ter the 35 287 remaining kilometers was broken dow in mid prairie, They little Frenchman told me “Restez tranquil “ and we both — got into the buckboard behind the mules, ‘Six hours ‘more said he would see us at the hotel in Conce&ccao de Arroio, It had stopped raining a iitile and I didnt care, The prairie was too interesting, It was. quite flat, and in some dircetions snretched off ‘to. the horizon | without a break in its green smotheness, But in many places you could see bamboo hedges and trees surrounding some far distant ranch-house, looking like Arnold Boecklin's Toteninsel, in a vast sea of prairie, Sometimes one. was) close enough to see the white paster house and the red tile roof, or the. thatched outbuildings and the bamboo. lattive work of he walle, But usually’ froma distance only. the green trees and bamboos leaning together over an un- seen house, The prairie was: bright green, our path was the smoother stretches of°grass, almost like’a: law, and shallow puddles and poitls were everywhere, A gray @ bird about as high as a chicken but much thinner; witha slow deliberate and rather choosy walk, gray on the body, with pure white wings edged with a broad) black: atripe, was, on all sides and very tame, The name for it, is6 quero-quero from the cxf, and. it has a beautiful way of flying,in ~unison, We saw quxi p partridges quite close thinking they were hiding(ten feet away) and white. cranes nabbing frogs . | quite: undisturbed, Then came a Ford over the, hiil and... as it was for ‘us we got in androcked away at twice the | speed for the low line’ of blue mounteins to the west, The. ‘ostriches werent at all frightened, when. we caught up on some ‘I got out and tried to get a picture and they, ratlled away, easily-- they are only half, the. size of African ostriches but are really prettier and more graceful,.,I) got about within 50 yards up to them before they got, frightened, ot » Then shddenly we got to & place where the houses with bamboos around them began to be bunched together and » tuning a corner we found a big green square with an old church in the centre and pink and white and blue houses all around it, --- whichowas Conceiccao do Aroio, Sunday the 21 of Noven- ber 1920 _ =. IT am for the ineingih the king of the Bungaloos ! I am ina special boat chartered for my benefit and going a three day journey along a string of lakes, It is a humorous journey and there are some 23 men crowding. into the cabin to see this process -- reallya very funny sight, great big browm devils with hip boots crowding round and saying " Barbaridade!" and "Tao 1li- geira! "-<- the first time a good many of them have ever seen a typewrite, Now that the ones who were here at first have stop=- ed calling in their fr iends and the crush has abated the discuss ion has turned on the advanteges of being educated and the am- azing skill it requires to run a typwwriter ! The things are synonomous, It has happened this way, The question of where we would establish a post down in the State of Rio Grande do Sul came up and IT had to decide the pace and when, So the Secretary of State Dr Protasio Alves gave me a letter that must have said a good deal more than it seemed , for when I gave 1t to a very good little French engineer named Dr George Roy, he simply put everything at my dispostion and I have a large sidewheeler to myself with the only drawback that I have to take the large part of the voters of the town of Tramandahy home after the election and the caboose of the boat is cheia de gente which is so much more than merely full of people would be, Eastward we have .a few dunes and then the sea, west- @ range of irregular and heavily wooded hills, and we are ‘winding in and out over a long chain of shallow lakes which tomorrow will be more a long swampy river and there I-shall hae great fun, Fun because I have never seen a crocodile in nature yet, nor any pink flamengoes, but these I am assured we shall pass in great abundance, And tonight after the voters have got- ten off the boat I shall be boss of it completely and shall have to do nothing but command the ship to WAX wedigtr ‘ahohor:early in the A.M. That will be my idea of a good time-- and I luckily * brought plenty of films and I certainly do hope I can gevu some- thing worh while, | . | fhe notes I made about the frogs eggs proved to be abdut as accuraé as most or tne information you get from Brazilians about their own flora and fauna, They are exception- ally unrelaable it seems to me-- a duck and a robbin @ passaros --- and beyond tnat not much distintion is made! ~-I opened some of the beautiful pink eggs.and there was curled up the nicest little snail shell, the. open front part ‘yellowish and. the finer spiral part a very. bright cochin- eal red color, This tiny shell were floating, ina gluey ~ - fliia, but were very plainly nothing to do with frogs at all, | ted ices 8 aut of aotiupet dD aE! Two customs wnieh I have noticed again, here but which IT have not made any. note of before I bhink are worth mentioning. When the steward came in, to light. the lamp’ on the Camaquam he turned to everybody as soon as the flame wees i-cinds and said) solemily "Boa Noite!" and everybody answered"Boa Noite!” , This, I have seen widespread here but the other trick I noticed may not be be at all common for I have never seen Lt before, When a girl about 19 came into she breakfast room at about 6 in ihe A.M, she first went to what. was either her brother or a very indifferent husband and waiting patiently for. him to outsretch his hand finally took it rather perfunct- orily, as I hougt, and kissed it, I heard her say no "Bom Diat" nor did he either, | | framandahy proved to be a desolate sort of Provinee- town-inshe-winter sob of a place,and as the wind was high we rocked all nikt at anchor and in the morning went on to he bamboo surrounded fazenda of one Diehl where. we fqtepbonee for more gasoline, And finally towards dusk tied MP in ube ‘lee of a mud bank-- Barro de Joao Pedro-- and when Lt was “mroning the sky had almost cleared and I knew it would be w warm enough for he jacares (crocodiles) to be out when we got 4 to them, Along bhe river and even on the reeds in the Lagoa dos Barros there was ‘ great abundance of bright salnion pink splotches about 3/4 of an inch wide and 2inches long, I thought at first that these were eggs of some moth, but the invariably wet and-exposed positions were contradictory, so I asked what they were, Frogs eggs! The individual eggs were 0 size a bright pink glue on the inside and pink but with a powdery white color on the shell which was a little stiff, on breaking one the glue dried very quickly and the big Dutehmen tela me thes used a paste of the eggs for sores in horses-- they cured immediately was his observation, In these plains there is an enormous number of cattle nearly all wild and when the engine came near they hurried away over the smoothe prairie at a great rate, Occasional horsemen passed by with palla or poncho sweeping down drom their necks to cover almost completely. man and his horse, They have @ curiously digniffging effect; the rider seems to be sitting very erect and still and. moves with his horse as one piece, We passed two men in tne late afternoon who had encamped,in the lee of a, bamboo grove with their huge waggons providingsskgiter, for they use vhe tongue of the wagon as ridge-pole for a rawhide or canvas tent, they were lassoing stkes..on the end of the weéeson tongue, The lasso here is always fine braided rawhide, They were hauling railroad ties in these big carts which take 50 to 65 ties (short and small of course) and get 60§000 for the load which takes some 5 to 7 days(sometimes 4 to 5), this is with a nor- mal exchang e $15.00 but here has more value if they do not buy foreign goods--- which there is scarcely an opportunity to do, Just as on the Amazon where $3 kilometers from Manaos youre in the jungle, here one has to go put a& very short distance from Porto Allegre to slide back 200 years inwo the middle ages of agricwiture,religion,;medicine, music, and many customs, They plant by hand, they buy blessings for eile . @ the mares, Iohey. wrap up a compound. fracture of the tibia in a dirty bandage and leave it till the owner dies, they sing Gregorian music mixed in with the carninval music of two years ago--- perhaps 200 years is stretching it a little, But bastante atra- zado it certainly is, Toaay is election wae the hoteleiro begged my | amma for the noise that he is sure will take place here in the botel about lung time 1 iui to barroulho sem qualquer duvida, Doutor, There was parrulhs, "seus fe hundred and fifty tall dari ‘men in high boots or in sandals and clinking and jangling with spurs were drifting in and out all day long. The election as usual here was absolutley uncontested-- there was no other candidate than the intendente: of Borges de Medeiros’ party, The newly elected Intendente when I’ met him in the eveneing remark that Cox's telegram of congratulation to Harding was “correctissimo" and a phenomenon you'd never see in Brazil between two parties, The day after the election Monday-no Sunday morning erly Dr George Roy the little Frenchman took me down go where the dredge was getting its deadly work in and showed me with pride a cut from which they had taken 400,000 cubic meters with an apparatus built on the spot with every bit of iron hauled 60 kilometers in carro de boi, The dredge was built there too and really seems to be a very effective apparatus -=- though I'm a better judge of aspiration apparatus than dredges, , He had tom warn me séveral times of going into huts saying "Dont go in there!It's all bicho de pe there!" And dirs 'ehodett a few days after I was digging one out of my foot, Three of his workers have had to stop work al- - together and it is pathetic’ #o'see some of the dogs. Pleas too are no. joke in this good ship "General, Ozorio", Leaving Cornei1hos aowhieh was a venda with a rather graceful ola tree sprawled out over the roof, a little pink chapel with BOM JESUS written over 1%, and a few little hovels with sick children sunning themselves or lying on the floor saring at US-- we started up & winding stream through a huge marsh that stretches for miles between the ocean sahd dunes to the east and hke irreguler flat topped mountains to the west and norh west, Not five minutes later I was seeing one crocodile after acide flop off the low banks and dis- appear in the muddy water, or if ata greater distance : stealthily bide into the stream and wait with his. head and evil eyes just showing above the water until we were perhaps twenty feet from him when he would whi sk out of sight. They are evil beasts to watch-~ outright ferocity would be more agreeable. han than this non-committal akant silent guileful retirement, ‘The size I did. not remember to eshate and memories are unreliable, Their eyes are wonder= fully placed, on he top of their heads and elevated just enouk to be the last thing to ees periscope like beneah the muddy water, I never have seen such an amazing variety and number of fesh water birds-- many I never have seen the like of before, There was a huge goose with black and white Wings and a gray body and a very short face covered with red wattles. There were lots of bigua, an ungainly duck like thin elackish brown bird witha a long sharp beak, that looked and dived much like a loon, There was aa black hen like looking one with. a@ red face, and two white patches on its wings, that almost always ran and couched in the reeds rather han fly. One huge black anni white stork and another soft bitue gray crane and a beautiful little golden brown bird about the size of a pheasant and a habit of holding up its almost transparent geg@lden wings when it alit, And another---but so it went on © fifteen or so new birds that I watched with the binoculars , from the prow of the boat, t would like with a Snes canoe my spend two weeke like a savage in these noad swamps, ‘slaeping when he world about me sleeps and feedng and wandering through the long days with the peaceful content hat comes with practice at living - so, The more one notices of living things the more completely does the Scotchman’ s renark express the situation ee sa grand life af ye aon' t weaken" It does not seem to be as much of a universal slaugh- ter house ag it re considered by some ,@Rathxthat, Death that has been preceded by some few "crowded -hburs of Siersous life" is no great tragedy, ote death that ends a life of misery and insufficienciy and sickness is a relief---- in nature these are the two varictbes. “The death we abhor ig the one of our own making--- we keep putting off the crowded hour and suddenly cones the end before we have run our race and had our fling--- then of course it 1s bitter, and of our ow making the more > poignant, But here in the swamps if there is an abundance of food there are more Stong moprhens and more strong-winged ducks that sur- vive all the oher struggles of living and the hawks live on the excess weaklings-- which must bear some fairly constant ratio to the total. To me wild life seems a less brutal balance than I was taught to believe it, and etre ss see goings-on ‘considerably more so ! I always feel in places like this the way gu feel. when two very agreeable Looking people are pre a, language you cannot understand and but half catcn he ideas of, There is some sort of communion in the wilderness that strangera cannot enter into with- out a year or so of ners Lanes and perhaps much more than mere time 1s involved as well,