mar with ronarkable success, and now is recel ir ng serving as the sole put a curiously effective contact with the outer > contemporaneous world of which they see nothing else, In the last ten years dress and all the habits of social greeting have changed ai asked in the same breath if I know Dr Carrel personally and if I happen to know Tom Mg or Dustin Farnum, or Mary Pickford, They look on the American Aray as its fondest jingoistic admirerx would not drean of dolage= they think the Eatados Unidos are anway® worth wotching, vith admir ation ready to flow, like the saliva of Pawlow's & dogs--hefore it ie Justified, Some day the date of the first noving picture will ° 2 given place with outtenburgs work ag & factor in education, Ther is one place here where work of the very best p sort is being done and that it the Institute at B ut ax ntan, where Dr Vital Brezil has worked out serums for ‘the polsonous: snakes of Brazil very satisfactory — I 8 would interest you, or if you have any friends who would Like a full report of the — public support, If the full details of thie ‘ techni que I could send ; gladly a ‘eopy of he: report of the process in French, y The work of the Commi ssi.on here has resulted. in an increasel interest on the part of the Government in vari, ous. problens of public administration of s nt tation, « now their reports are pubs lished along side of ours every month in the newspapers, Mr Morgan the U.S, Anbassador says that the Oe ideKoned is the only Anerican f organi zation hntat has not as. yet gotten iato trouble in E Brazil! TN ews ‘Maps we will have & chance to continue our 19,000 treatments & month for a little while longer ! I an writs ag this on a erasy” Li ttre piver boat: on. the Te~ vassu river trying to take 800 sacks of herva natte up a shellow and tortuous stream from Sao Matheus where we have just finished a survey, to Poarte Amazonas and later Ponta Grossa » where perhaps I shall find some mail from the States--a thing that is like roast beef and. EU mush-rooms to a hungry wan, Lord, A delicacy ! Now that ae know the general outlines of what I am doing you @ line with less of formal deserip- ‘ et ch ped RM Pe t eri ae SRR: IRAE A NAT coe eet Enea poe sieht py ames ase A ie Rs Ty aN RRR 5 28 oS NRA eS Soin RR Re had oa Chae ee Dy ae tion and more of what is going on from day to day under the sky that sports the Southern Cress, the Centaur and a Moon that rises and sets witha brilliance and a speed that makes me forgive the theatre for all its dash and vigor inthis parkoulery: Wi ti the very best of remembrances anid I think from all I know now of Brazilian postofiices, vlis very best of Christmases ees . Yee ° a . a ‘ ‘In Campo de Tenente Polak Family in Sao Matheus Qa * 4 te eh \ t* / A oy a, NEN Sa ai f “ Ws: eg eS ‘ Byaii® wt owl Oe Ta et eae de ¢ i Pr + whole village ‘selaeaing reverent: 3 Ania the thousands of letters with a more familiar postmark than this one I thought you' 'd be amused — have some mail from @ young Brazilian friend, He opens with a politeness characteristic of the country and hopes the that, hurried departure from U.S. battleship without saying goodbye to lady whe made stay in Rio more pleasant than other- wise would have been, wai be AS excused as it was justified, “gust got to train in time to have a, ‘five-milreis “squabble with the porter--- and that is as late as you can economically be to a train, here no Brazil, — . Today was a scream, Ne asked the Prefect of Lapa to give us a horse to ge out to the colony outside town, He came across with a swell barouche ram by four serawmy but unquest- Lonably spirited er piel | . bays, with thousands of sleigh bells everywhere about theme-- and ners almoco with the y a guarda and I set to the colony about six miles out of tow, The road was the sort. that keeps you apologising for innocent violence the whole time, end when we arrived T was glad to Look - ariver in the eye and memori s¢ what that sort of a driver is apt to look ‘like, He kept clving the horsee the right of self-determination and the fore pair never lookea at a crosseroads in the sane way that the hind pair dide-- I jumped: out and had to hold the municipal barouche from going over the edge of a hill, be- cause the driver couldn ’ & get enough unanimd ty i the tean — at the last | minute ,. fhe colonists are Italians, really splendid looking peasants but they have had nothing much better to copy than the local customs, and the result is a little sad, The main room of the kitchen is nearly always a mud floor around an ppen fire built on a raised platform---no suggestion of a chimney, The entire colony of forty or more houses has been tuilt without any sawed wood at all and the effect of the a A oo constant thick smoke on these huge slabs of the x rough wood makes really a& very handsoue though dirty house interior, I dont think that in one afternoon A. haveever seen so many iednaly faces as teday<« ‘they were all so cheerful and pleasent and agreeable, ‘and told us all their troubles in the sinpeees and cherr= fullest way, We would examine the whole family fron the Pat on down to the pequeno, all of them tall pink-cheeke ed Italians and smiling and Lauching the whole tine, a This is. the country for you. High rolling hills, no life that is not on horseback, Frost on my bed in the morning, to the horror of my crew who think that to sleep out under a fine little orange tree on a cold starlit night is the heigzht off insanity, Verdade it is cold here, I have had to buy a local comforter which | makes a geod bedding roll even 4f it is lavender on the outside, Yesterday Shey had & horserace out near the - -gherch and it is a very picturesque costune, the long fine woolen penche that the horsemen wear here, The "horses are «ood toogs-= ‘in fact this 4s no more like the rest of what 2” ve seen than Wontana or New Mexico is like Palm Beach, It is a country of pine trees and “a cool fresh skies and I like it, There is about $ infection here in Lapae--so I expect I shall never see this tow again. _ Much obliged for the forwarding of all the sturt; my address will continue to be Caixa 295 while out in the interior of this bon libtle séate, whose cpaital is my home--and if ever a word deserved " " marks that word home is the word sint it? ' ’ ye = eget S ‘ Serrd sa é T senior for it as he wished the Church in the. dapitol to es i August 19° | To-night I have been dom at the Station Agent's, Mr to — Tamplin's house, first talking at some lenght with his Brazilian wife about the habits and customs here in this country and later going over Tamplins siter-in law to find a full blown Tb, process in her right upper lobe, They were rather amazed at the fulness of the — examination, which was good fun merely for the en “@t recalled, The women here nurse their children up to sect $r0o years of age; seldom leaving off before the third month ‘and it is very rare to find a case of undernourishment among the infants, In cages where they wish to wean the ‘baby en early start is made by squeezing beans up and cramming them intouthe kids mouth adnost from the start and going on ‘to & erued wade of fleur or mi ihe which’ is I think & rough native flour, It is admitted that this” As hard for _ baby but at is practiced Phd losophteadiy<* and souie seem to survive, | , - famplin's father was a feather merchant in England who lost through 411lhealth a successful business in Lon= don, He happened to «o the Brazilian consulate in London when he was hard pressed for a new chance and seeing there the siteiane postera of life in tlie “colonies of Brazil, he sold the family plate and all put a fine harmonium bought at the Paris exposition in 1853, which he brought to Curityba for his wife to have in the new land, The Pres ident of the Province of Parana then he saw it was so keen to have it that he offered 100 pounds on the spot to Mr possess the first Harmonium ever seen or heard $s the Pro-#. vince, But lire T felt so badly to lose it that her husband refused to sell it. This. angerd the President 60 mich that when with endless trials they. finally got to the colony in the matte near Serre Azul they found that the Local head of the Colony there had orders to send that Ingleze Pamplin into the matte itself, So Tauplin, his wife who had had in London most of the ordinary luxuries,and five children, were dragged up into the bush to a plce where the only clearing was around their hut, and where they used sheets and old opera-cloaks to keep out the rain and where Tamplin’ mother's bed was a pile of banana — | leaves, and thier only food beans and cane sugar! lr T. "ated there of heart disease and Tamplin worked in the wash. for eight years till he was twenty four, At that time his mother happened | to have made some sketches of Seleeets and especially butterflies, which she sent as @ mere keepeake to the British consul in Rio whorn she had a debt of gratitude to, A Brazilian official happen ta to see these and in his aAntration for then arranged _ that she be brought out of the matte to Curityba to do - la set for the Govermment; that ia the only way that the family ever saw the light of day again, He told ue this looking in an odd way at his hands and saying from tine to time" What they have seen!" Which is probably true. an Tonight I heard the frogs that ery like babies and of course I went way out of my road to rescue the | kids that were lost, Such a funny noise, for to eo coming from a aiteh full of nothing but frogs, We are off to Campos de Tenense tomorrow, where I suppose Remigio is saying " Mas eu digo com freangueza" “n= of this leaving, I ao not tnt the Brazilian Line is paricularly true: aa "’ Quem inventou /a partida Nao sabei @a”“Anor Que parte parte chorando Quemfica morre: de dor. Bernas Voveier Qutw ge Mist pa Nav’ paber dee ai Que pate pate plraus icf perder 0 Prear yey (Eng,) numerous Christian Science: is Here it is the very end of August and I have finished the inspection of two more towns, Campo de Tenente and Rio Negro . with but little to show for it all in the way of letters to the North, Campo de Tenente was 4n informal little place, largely German, and devoted to a box factory of Snr, Henrique Stahlke — and consisting of lovely flat topped pinhto trees stuck casually about some scattered houses, with geese and endless mule trains and stray horses drifting through the lanes, There were also sone cedars of a new sort-- the most lovely I have evere seen, because the cdld touches their tips with a deep purply red, and only the depths of the foliage is green, the rest is all a gentle mixture of the softest reds and brows and greens ,Sprics of this are geing North if it can be done, - One evening as ‘I was trying to do accounts I heard a most unpleasant humming noise-- just the noise _— a year ago used to mean Fritz coming te the Hospital. fer a raid, Just the same noise---- I was astonished and started out to see what in the world it was, There wasnt any firing of course and it suddenly came to me that it was only the sawemill of Snr, Stahlke --instead of the Mercedes of Herr Stahlke! Gosh that's a bit of a change for one year's time, We left Campo on the 27th having examined 375 people in five days end finding 144 of them with hookworm, Twas 4 bon little tow and Stahlke was very helpful and. jovial---- but I am sorry to say I cant fall for sll of the German joviality as yet, But when we got into the train I found Dr Araujo with a suite case nearly full of magazines and some letters tambem and here it is that my letter really begins for I have been so -leng on the trail that I'd almost forgotten what other people were aware of my existence--having May as the last date to - go by, I was simply delighted and mail does look good you know, at times, I had Scientific Americans, and The Nation onitors ( the best paper — Pa 1 most ways that I know) sme copies of Science and some (edical journels and as & finale Sytem and Poetry (separate agazines if you understand me rightly), Perfectly happy, pened & typewritten letter first out of curiosity and was rewarded to find that it was yours, and was dc lighted to learn that the Trotter book had not gone wide ne the arkew« I'd agree that the conclusions are too anxiously drawm,I— think no book by an intelligent man should be sotten aku out without a simple statement of what he'd like to believe on the subject at hand as a preface --" Where the treasure is - there is the heart also", I ahve the system of reading ( I really never did : i anything systematically in my life except toothbrushing) one newspaper each evening; to make things last and to give a sense of progress to the week, But I cant be so selfcontrolled ‘on letters and ‘whacked ‘em all open'at once, including one I shouldnt have opened to one of my. men from his Brazilian ene amorada, and before I knew it Tf Was well into the heart of a very hearty Porusuese sonnete-- and I couldnt think who in the world in the U.S, knew me and Portuguese well enough to be writings such a load! ~ It is a curious thing isn't it how quickly you can fal out of one existence into another? Already here I begin to feel that so much has happened to make a big distance even bigger that-I am not writing to people because it seems somehow necessary to give an introduction to a sudden one slaught delivered from so strange a place as Brazil, Please advise ( as they say in commercial circles ) me if you get bored by tribute from a wild and distant state-- and at times from a wild and distant aitte of mind --- you are the only person I have seen yet who can maintain a mental EXISTENCE without soing in for absurd generalities and theories whose purity 1s stifled by their falseness and their deadly boredom, Not 4 light sentence--- but the idea is that I dont find many who can ¢@ endure a good Christ- “fan and 7. feel She” yee charm eee W th the di- i ane OH lene Cae pink [* Ove verting buncombe of Greenwich Village, (which I'a defend to any Ladies Home Journal mind with more loyalty than hope of success), Perhaps a queer petition this --but I had nearly theught you hull down over the horizon until your Letter cane, I'll burbdle on and the Brazilians and Burleson will get half «--dont curse lir Burleson, like the cornet soloist he nay be doing the best he can, I enclose an interesting description of a man, You dont find many like that---and frequently the few that do exist fail recognition in either sense of the word, There ore not many things more 211 outdoors than such absence of Gant and inherited prejudices; I know of nothing nore desir« able in friends or acquaintances, I think I will get me the book, pes I have ‘much chance to wear out prejudice here in Brae ail, but there come times when the longing for mine om and all that that means, comes very strong, They have a different set of values here, Promptiess, energy, cooperation, imperson- al kindness, lsinterested gentility especially toward women, prodigality of effort and insistence on efficient methods, — silent nike self-effacing service, spontaneity of wit or origin ality of mind find less value here than at home, Here more "“homenagem" goes to tribe loyalty, ability to express verbally friendship, felicitations, tribe good-will, and amityorith aestring , and to the recognition of natural beauty, and the maintainance of undisciplined personalk identity and self-re- spect, More perfume and jewels among the men, I have made no railroad journeys without an escort to and from the station, © Slapping a mn in rage is an insufferable insult to his dignity, And I have seen three crew men rush to the window to exclaim "Que bonita! Ah Doutor como linda essa sabiaf" at the sight of a gray ereen robin in the orange tree, The men are the only ones to have anything approaching intellectual indepéend- ence and - this,friends, To the women I think life must be very dreary--- their faces have a powdered stoliaity that is not a very high tribute to their men, I have often. wondered why the husbands of beautiful women, instead — of being the objects of shallow praise for having made such a catch, are not more often complimented for the beauty or spirit of their wives long after the catch Wes catched, As it seems that would be a rare thing in Brazil, : : I am now in the funniest little boat you ever saw being stared at by some rustics to whom this is an extra= ordinary scene, We are going down to Sao Matheus, the _ boat ordinarily takes loads of matte up from down river, and the green powder lies all ower the deck, I shall have the most interesting time--- birds I have never seen be-~ fore and types of scenery soe, & fourteen hours trip for | #200 with jerked beef and the local beans to eat, A dirty looking place to be sure but we shall simply fit out our camp beds where the matte is usually and have really a de- lightfully cool and pleasant night of it, It ie very hot now, but this part of Brazil gets cool by night and the Christian Science Moni ten hag just provided me with a map of the Southern Heavens which the pleasant clear “weather will make good fun to study I had a lot of fun. on the boat aown; in the Tropics you get & "close-up" on them all and the stars are even more worth while than ever, a I wish the pictures that are stored in my camera euld accompany but Rio de Janeiro is the nearest place for decent developsent and that takes about a month from here, The answer is ma mate tarde which is local for later on owe 2 frequent expression of the human spirit as it has its being here, It is not fair to say lives and moves and has its beinge---it cant do all thatk in one day: mais tarde, Good Luck and cheerio A. G, | P.S. % am not & Mgocial worker. no ne + ree Z “ ; " pene Lattnight we had a big party here «= a baile of which thet invitation runs . E Pw sac ee iis In many ways this Sao Mattheus is the most interesting place we wane seen yet, The trip dow the river was by night and finished by day in a rain that was too heavy to allow taking \ pictures, At night we sate-- my Italian guarda and I out in the prow of the boat watching the winding black river over hung with moss-laden trees down which we slid and sidled, He has a pleasnt tenor voice and gladly sang whole pages of his favorite opera to me --Pagliacchki, interrupted occassionally by the boat crashing into the bank on a badly steered curve, Once we stopped for wood which the caboclos with streaming cunny-sackg ever their heads carried down from a tiny clearing in the dense matto, And once for three | sacks of oranges which. three ruffians brought to the boats — - edgefrom more perfectly black matto, With earrings and red scarfs overn their heads, rough beards animal eyes and a large facao or bowie knife stuck in their belts they were worth siting up for, Then we went to bed--- the center of the boat was free from its ordinary load of matte and. twas easy to set up our nice clean American camping beds and sleep under netting in peace and uninterrupted isolation, Sao Mattheus proved to pe a wild backwoods tom cut out of the matte; the Prefeito did not seemaz very excited to see us but let us have the Car ara Municipal without more adieu and said that he would arrange a nan‘ito:eone ona. transport the: beds and equipment from the wharf to the Camara, After waiting twe hours in the rain I began to fume and we got a man on’ our own hook who hauled the stuff for'us, © >> I sent Bonini and Miragaya out to a store and to the poste office with microscopes and some’ specimens. that. showed active and convincing worms and again the next day similar propaganda but with but little result, Visits to the Polish colonies . were: very discouraging too, because the people seemed to be - very suspicious and we were getting almost no-one to examine, Most of the Poles thoughk though there has been a colony here for 27 years cannot yet speak Portuguese and naturally ied made it hard ~--Deodoro Silveira came back furious that there should be people in Brazil so long and yet not inéw the’ linda lingua "the beautiful language of Portuguese, — " ‘The night of the second day we had our cone ferneia and 130 were there at first curious, then dumbe founded and incredulous and at last keen for an an examination, Poor devils they have never had an _ thing from the hahd of strangers” that did not cost something in the end and natuzally zx they dont see . why an American millionario should be doing any. such thing, I am tempted to tell them that he is doing it as a matter of penance, which would make it all instantly comprehensible to them «-- and I wone der how far I'd be off, Not ti11 today aid I discover why they have been so slow here, The Poles have circulated a rim rumor that I am a representative of the American Army — that there is coing to be another war in the U.S, and that& we are getting the names and ages of possible conscriptge--taking the names of the women and chil- dren is only a blind to fool people with, We went to the Padre who rules with a vod of irone=- he will anday that they instruct them Lomerrow which is Sv are to be examined and in the conferncia after church — I am going to get a Pole tw explain to all the people what we are doing, I was interested to have the POlish teacher say "Why the Rockefeller Commission was in Poland too during the war!" which was the job Reggie Foster did after his fiancee shot herself and he’ couldnt stick it in America any longer, His work is helping me,)) & Of what happens at church I'll teil you later