*

te ees a
‘woleg th.

Imagine @ huge well built flour mill built at
, the water's edge along a narrow poe land that separates
big fantastic tree covered mountaine from a warm,lazy, de-
serted inlet of the sea, ahuge mill whose gate opens acte

ually on the wild matto or bush, showing no sign of extend+
its influence beyond the royal palm which waves peacefully
at the mill gate to the wild palms on the hillside two hue
dred yards away, A big boat from the Argentine nestles age
ainst a steel pier while through & Long pipe its load of
wheat is sucked by @ vacuum machine , $0 tons an hour, into
the mill. A little red faced Englishman is manager, --- and
“ to the place is doctor, policeman judge and footeball pro-
motor to 500 Brazilians, Italians, and Spaniards, living all
yi | alone but for a setter and a great dane, in a fine little
_ ehacara up on the hill, and boasting that next Christmas he
will see his England again, A nice simple little fellow who
has been out so long that he talks English with lapses into
Brazilian-- he told me today ruefully that he had had a

 

monkey and two deer, but that when one of the deer and the
monkey were killed by. rattlers he was so disanimated ( des=
animado = ‘discouraged in Portuguese) that he had tried to
keep any more than his dogs, Outside the mi11 the hogs go
.. | in happy processions up and down the streets and under the
houses and life. rells.on in what. would be but for the disease
a fairly happy and self-determined squalor, We arrived yesq_
terday and in the evening gave a magic lantern show to 40 or
50 of the village and today we have been examining about 30
for hookworm (only two were negative) and. tomorrow we shall
treat these and examine probablyloo more, if Brazilian
habits are anything to rely on, I have 4 very decent, Brasil«
fan doctor and four trained assistants with me and fj am
spending the next three months. coasting around the state of
Parane, oe settled as yet, but cooler Ahan, Fie. and

   

+ 5h ide iit Ml MRT De RT) yd fae Be. ic die ie ; ad DP is as sp : eek. oR aan SR ‘ c i i ‘ * ae q ‘
SRN aid is i ian ele Sg . ey EMSS pe de ts ae a ay eae Remi eI a rs ea TSW as ST ; Gye, ahh Ny ee neaara Aen, VERE AE ph. eciee SC oS ae ae arm ere Reem tt cae
 

 

in its wild poor half- settled condition a wonderfully in-

‘terestin

 

Gj Place to be turned loose with a book of railroad
passes and ones om wishes as the sole points to be cone
sidered in the great and Inaressing lyme ing, auep tion of
where next, Of course it is well to admit that you are a
bit exaggerating, I do have to go to the places that need
to -be examined for hookworm and that runs the choice of
places -- but necessity frequently means more variety in|
places than choice, as anyone who has fallen off a cliff
will be ready to admit, and so there is some consolation
to the fact that where the hookworm there hook ar;
It is great sport learning Portuguese now, When

you can understand everything or quasi tudo ( there's a
chance for you) it is encouraging bvei'¥e listen in on
everything, and night before last when I had the first
dream wherein Portuguese was spoken: and enjoyed by all
you can bet it set me up for a day, Tonight they told me
the classical Brazilian stories of intoxication and if
Vite bet like mentioning rain to a sensitive Saharan ?
fhe latch-key saga here varies only in that the man is
found waving key in air at ugderate distance from house
and when asked for why he does it replies that he .
waiting for the house to come along again just alittle
bit nearer, Anothér of a sort new to me was of ‘a querulous
plaintive welleducated man who said at a certain stage in
the evening "But I dont gee why Gallileo got so much crede

A funny thing happened to one of the doctors down

 

it for his discovery!¥

here @ while ago, He was smoking and happened to blow a
Little otded iat of his mouth and then to inhale it een

  

his nose, A pazit’ n n gawped at the sight and said immed-=

lately and in wll . riousness "?ruly you Americans are

marvellous ly ebthonbat You even use the tobacco snoke Se
twice!” They watch us all the time and attend the movies
not infesultory twos iit threes but inpressing crowds —

all the afternoon houseful after houseful,

 
Tonight walking down to Itapema-em-baixo I Stopped by the
Side of a pool and in the half- moonlight was able to see
without in the least disturbing what I have never been
able to see without being considered as de trop, the
evening social life of frogs, I dont mind saying that
they appeal to me tremendously on the epic side ofe their
existence, They are an immeasurably old form of life,
and consequently either much favored or else very perfectly
fitted to the task of existence, and when you consider how
many strange forms of organisms they have outlived, marsh
forms long Since fossilized, the ariving resonance of the
evenings puddle of frogs ,and its ringing mellow continuous
ness is impressive, A very simple very perfect answer to the
forever puzzling riddle of what will the morrow bring and
how can we keep going? They are killed by drought and by
any ingress of too mash eer fle yet in the delicate
in between they' tees - so ge outlived the rest of us by mill+~
ions of years, Frogs and pigeons--I'm fond of pigeons, but
they have none of the Jack London antiquity about them that

frog has, You see it is early early Spring here now,

We are very far from the wer here, I am picking by a

of Brazil now and. because I inde to like German,

iT am eemer ine on and with muitos tratimentos para
fazer amanha

   

 

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*

It being August the 10th today I naturally awoke
in tears to think of how much older we are all getting, mere
particularly yourself, and. then to of how small a chance I
run of getting anyone to take you a birthday present to you
in time from here in Itapema, which though it is on the
same water as North Haven is a bit difficult now that servants
cost so, I keep my servants -- and I have four here «- ail
busy at the job of finding out how much of this queer little
place has Hookworm, Out of 197 thusfar we have found 4 who
havent Hookworm I say some fellers have all the Luck dont they?
Yesterday with a hemoglobin book
in my pocket and a guarda (male
nurse) to do the difficult talke
ing I started out on some house
to house investigation which
yielded me about 60 cases and
was the most interesting and
amusing, work you can think of,
The natives can barely read,
live in the simplest sort of

traditional existence and with

oe?

oe Peres Bie ay ogee ot
SWar ti Ly fad

Feo

4 . ; ta ‘2% Wy a me ‘ oe
c4u8, earrings, large

 

of

ep ee. straw hats, wooden bowls for
‘the evenings grain, doublestringed bows called bod ques
with which they throw stones and. kill evenings roast as
he sings in the tree, figas or little carved hands to keep
off the evél eye, old mUugZle-loading flint locks or cap
rifles ----and the very latest ideas in the treatment of
their Hookworm provided with much amusement and pleasure
and satisfaction by yours truly,

This is my first stop in the survey of a large and
Spareely settled state called Parana in the south of Brazil,
where I make it immediately clear I heap all the clothes
of Meassachhsetts and N eH, On the top of the bed of a night
~e- briefly Gaspar, I aint in the tropics by an overcoat

and two pairs of undées,
 

 

| Parana is cold aistincply 80
and at present we are in the
warmest part, Dont share the
opinion of the Benighted
States in general that Brazil
is a fine country place filled
with many handsome boaconstrict-
ors -» to ugce a phrase dear

to the heart of any Andoverian,
and youre one in point of fact,
There are as fine huge rolling
-hilis here in Parana, as fine

pine forests as ever I saw in

 

the U,8,---- but here only

a begxinning at settlement and still a map that reads
in big blank spaces ‘terra incognita’, At Guarapuava

we shall be in 4 place 80 miles from the railroad or
more and with more Indians and Gaboclos to treat than
any thing else, Imagine the English ranch up in Matto
Groeso 330 miles on-one side and $00 miles on the other
where a troop of horsemen simply ride in every once

in &@ while and round up 4s many as they want and then
ride out again! And that is going on nowe- when frontier
life was supposed to be dead,

Agter I finish this survey herein Parana I shall
go South to the next State Santa Catherina and do the
same thing there, All this lasting till about February
of 1921, 7 find it bully fun but -at times set homesick
for friends and the sound of English spoken, Letters too
have the same high value that you nikht suspect them of
possessing and thanks a lot for your description of the
reunion of the class of 1911, It is diverting but not
‘flattering to my intetligence to thimk of they way I used
%O agbnize to myself about the class reunions having a
goed spirit ete All that work over appearances! I should

have loved to have seen some of ‘em curse Carlie Hann
YY

>

:
:

Planning their tomorrows work as

‘The funny thing to me is that they

little sawed off Prazilian who you

under their breaths, or to have merely seen the Bish ! My God what
a charming thing dt is to marry young and never have anything hap-
pen to you! Missing street-cars, going to "Little dinners", being.
pung upp on the damned telephone all day, and wiping noses of
little snipes people ingratiatingly say poo like you----- well
I am going to do. it sometime but it wont be. (a) Now (b) in Brazil,
The chief difficulty I find in this job is in the abrupt
change from trying to like what I get after 411 is over, to trying
to anticipate exactly what I want and then getting it or making
other people set xk it for me, It is the change of existence from
one of landing various jobs which were considered as good and then
trying to fill them decently, to an existence quite without any
criterion or precedent, where the ideas and the necessities must
all come from me and be passed on energetically enough to make

& go of things, As a matter of fun it is immense--- I sit up here

if I was the Lord, or perhaps

Chas Storey on the Peace Commission
in Paris, something pretty big any-
how, and before I know it I cant

think of anything more to be done,

say "Sim, Signor" (whieh sounds
more like ‘Seashoré') and then they
go and do it and come back with ree
sults miles ahead of what I thought
they could have secured,

I had a diveting time seeing
th president of this State when I was

in Curityba, He was a rotten looking

 

can see any day consuming toothpicks ; and Whispering and grunting
in front of Gity Hall and he was in deep conversation with the

chief of State Police and a heeler, but he: gave mé a very polite
interview and I got a book of passes for the Survey off him, so
I cant complain, But POLITICS | as the saying goes here among tS

A an
aie tee. og
The Aisiiok ieeais "Heli, Seneny would be put in the Kindergarten

class in Brazil", And really that is true, The mayor

of Antonina does nothing profitable but Duy and sell
sovernment concessicns , $30,000, is about right for

& small concession! And éveryone knows it,
However you can apply the local proverbd locally,

"Service de crianes e pouce A child’s work is small
_ Mas, quem depressa e louco" ‘Who hurries it is a fool

‘To which yesterday the microscopist Miragaya remarked

at almoco (lunch) "five um parent qui ‘morreu por causa

 

a'isso" (I had a parent who died for that reason)

CS We all eat dinner in the RESTAURANT DPAREMA
oe which is run by a big
‘cheerful Itelian who
thought I was Rockefeller's
Son and tried to charge us
double prices, So I had

te set aside half & morne
ing and go and talk to him
which Was very amusing and
excellent practice for mm
for I am coming to like
dickering and palayras de

negocios,

 

Let me recommend the’ Srasiiiien day for work, You get
up at 6to 7 ahve hot coffee and bread Only, Then you
wrk ti11 11 when you have almoco, Then $411 2 when
you have more coffee simplis, and then at 5 or 5:30
jantar or the big meal and the last one, The evening
that begins at 6 and lasts till 12 can contain work —
in pretty fair quantities, :

Well best of luck Alec The empty spaces
in the text are for photographs to come later, for

. ay films aust 20 to Rio to be done decently,

 

 

ay best to Eleanor and the rest of the fami-

 

 

 

 
 

Will begin .a stream of people to be exanined, and in ‘three

Lapa Agust 14 1919

I am out in the garden at a house we've just
been given here, writing on an old wooden grinding eit
turned upside down while my guardas are out in the high-
ways and byways inviting the gusts, metaphorically speaking
to. the feast which we hold tonight in the local cinema
to instruct. the local Jeca-tatu ( the Brazilian for hayseeds)
a5 to the meaning and purpose of the Rockefea' Foondaish —
in Brazil, There will be a crowd and when all is over with
the speeches,and I'll back my Brazilian doctor Doutor Ree
migio against all comers in the art‘of Portuguese oratory,

when he 1s all through, we give out the little tin latinhas

 
  
 

and go home with the first days work done, Barly tomorrow

days we ought,.to have 400 or more examined, and as soon a
I get 500 to 600 I an Seing to beat it for Rio Negro, the
next stop, oS

Lapa is on a high flat table-land and it is good
and cold here now, down around freezing at night, But ther'e
is & pleasant little orange tree out in front of me as I
Write so what do I care] It has a curious parasite this

tree, a thin green cord without form al beginning nor end-

ing, which clings to éhe lower pirt or the smaller branches

and winds its way out to the extremity in the most meaning
less and structureless Way. In the barn walks the prize
gsamecock of, the neighborhood, redeleseed and me: nlooking,
and the urubus, eveat ugly carrion vultures who are the
only permanent and reliable public health officers encour-
aged here fly awkwa rdaly about and
quarrel over roosts and food, They ‘
are more vindictive ih their quarrel _
ing than most,,other birds, for
I notice that when one has ob-—

viously vanquished the, other |

sie

.-
a
.

ay

 
 

he flies after. him for some time, with a sort of
follow-up system, The people encourage the urubus
== that is they have a law against killing ‘them

-T which is more of an exemption from oritict sm

 

than ‘the other public health officers are likely

 
  
  

enjoy for sometine yer, Dr Darling has made it

 

fairly clear that they are not
| true public health agents,
because they fill the role aren
“all too frequently of
carriers of anthrax, and -

| probably act as carriers

| tor some of the animal paras-
ites, They ndiePetiy Stayt
@uite a@ part in the local
“folk-lore: the urubu who went
to. Nowsa Signora's feast in

| Heaven carried in his violin

= a turtle who hid in it because
fly . When they got to the party the

 

    

 Urubu discovered the turtle and was very angry at his
‘aeaaal pretensions--so he threw hin out, But Nossa
‘Signora took pity on him and though his fal broke
him in a thousanc pieces, She gathered them together
and gave them life---- and that is why you gee a

turtle's back made up of so many pieces,

ope 4s humourous to’ see how these poor men
‘putter from the éold aha even: here amusing 4d? abe the
awe with which they regaré my sleeping out on these
nights that leave frost on my ‘trench-coat as it lies
over me out in this nice little yaard, under the. orange
tree, This town is about 2500 feet up and this clear.
early spring weather 4s much the same as September in
the Adirondacks, The village doesnt awaken until nea ’

ly 8 o'clock, Then come the men with their palas or

     
 

big tasseled woolen ponchos, shivering _ unhappy.

 
 

Da Go oe shady side ve the street is  uite deserted ink vy is a

ee full two hours before the sun has made things confortal
ble, We are ‘finding & low rate of infection here,

: ee which nakes the work ‘of the microscopists more wearing

and which holde us down On the number of treatments,

I am afraia that the number s gathered in wont reach

500 &s soon as T thought, but I have learned that you

cannot ignite people here with ideas that will take

7 A : Eee ee

in three haurs or colt with any effectiveness under

 

 

 

ae 24 to 48 hours,
a Thereis a cinema here
ce ‘which has inherited a ~
“sd pianola from somewhere
“ue . and last night while I
Z| stayed here going over
- the Itapema records I
heard one of the Kktz
‘Lizt Rhapsodie Hongroise
set winding out into
the brilliant moonlight

in the garden here,"Thence" —
to quote quote an illust-

rious predecessor, "to bea"

 

ie 3 under a new bunch of stars

to stare at till insistent

| incoherent remarks began to crowd into my hearing amd
I saw and talked to a few Americans whom I did not

sce yesterday in the funny little tow of Lapa,

wy I have been having to dinner an interesting old

 

party of 68<-an Eng; s1ishman of the ke wild and wander-
sort-- who nas spent the last 50 years of his life in
Parana, and speaks Portuguese, French and German with
the same speed that he talks Cockney, He is the station~
agent here ne fine old pink and white specimen whose

race now serves to retain the superiority that his age

   
has need of, He is rather an

 

 

 

 

amazing old bird but for gen-
eral purposes the experiences

fell on Peather uncritical

 

| and unobservant senses, so
that he is not the mine of
storgies and anecfotes that
B ola Buddha Waddell at the

merican college in Sao

Paulo can be, But he has ab
old French Bible that dates

  
  

from the time of Good Queen
Bess, handed down in his fan-
iiy as an heirloom, which I am
going to see tonight when Re-
Migio and I go dow to take matte with hin, He agrees
with me that no¢hing has done so much to civilize the
people here as the American Cinema@ee- he gays that their
manners of greeting eachother , and of all social bee
haviour are now modelled on the RAbits observed in crowde
ed houses every other Sunday. Of course that will put a
finish on lots of interesting customs here--- I've al-
ways maintained that love making, must be more and more
standardized and unoriginal ag the Youth of the land
attend the Movies, In fact if I were @ girl of spirit
and experience 'twould be an interesting game to place
them all in whatever school they most closely aped-<=
those ‘young friends of mine, But to get back: t@ Brazil
whe movies says my friend Sgnr, Tamplin,— is notably

sivilized in the past ten years by ty, th meow,

While r pick off the hoar-frost from my cot in.

the morning those who had a tear their eye at my

coming suffering from the tropic heat, are drawing 106°

without fresh air in their homes in the North,

Happy days !

 
 

 

 

 
 
 

 

Now that I am fairly well into the job here and beginning
to know from firet hand experience what things are like here in
‘Brazil it is easier to ao what has for some time been my intention

 

and write to JOU. 4
At the moment: 7 have been assigned the job of investigaing the
ex ‘tent. of Hookworm. infection in the southern part of Brazil, first —
in the State of parana and later in Sta, Catherina, both regions
quite coo] and comfortable thusfar and not. at all like the gen-
eral. impression or Brasil which involves whi te plaster houses
cocoa plantations and epare revolutions p.r,n, The survey of this
State began on the 4th of August, when with & Brazilian doctor
LWO trained male-nurses and two microscopists well versed in the
local parasitology, I started out a wandering region-to-region
existence which will keep on tal. I finish in Sta,Catherina in |

 

— Our procedure is this; we have: our beds and skeeto-nesting ,
our kitchen utensils, three Bausch and Lomb'scopes, a special
centrifuge, «bout ten thousand capsules and enough oil of chen-
opodium to f411 them as required, and a good deal more miscellane
eous material 211 ready and in trunks, We choose @ series of ree
gions to be visited and white the aid: of a pass-book and much”
pebbeuka, we get to & tou, ‘The Lown prefect 12 overhelmed with
pride at being Visited( often mixed with suspicion ane & certain
arch "oheyes-but you-wontefind-hookwormehere" Gxpression) and we
are installed in the local city hall, That night the Brazilian —
doctor gives & talic in the local cinema with our lantern slides '
greatly aiding hin in explaining | hat uncinarioge is, and at the
end of the Service we male not & collection ak but a distri bution

of small tin cans for the specimens of fecca, The next day the
stream begins and I stay in the laboratory exanining the spleens

and the hemoglobins and seeing that things dont go galley-weat
ane keeping an eye open for whaterer interesting Way turn, up in
the way of elinical pathology, 1 The places chosen have been all
_ been small and fairly typical of this part of the country,
Though At sounds like rather a limited field of interest 1
proves to be any thing but that, for I am expected to get a
fair idea of the general prevention fo rural diseases which
nus could be applied--and ‘thus mosqui to-hunts, visiting

and talking with the local, H,D,(when the piiies sported one) _
and making notes on uedi cine lngeneral here has been part of
_ the program, Naturally there is abun ,

 

co ant interest on the
s a sides of lite other than uedical, and now ‘that my et ,
egun to come through with regularity ‘tho ugh well spaced

ana in big batches, I find this life very profitable in

   

 

_ every way, Hot that Brezil Will be my Swelling place for
good, No, not that by any means, but t am getting ample

 

“experience: on ‘the side of ‘and strative p
that is what I pame for, | - oy
fhe curandheiro, or whzard-nedicine-nan here occupies
and widely recognized
“ are they that ag yet the medical profession is unable to.

 

 

Pr en tatenesiing: position, So powerfu

 

a deal with’ then, for they frequently have political ‘gativehoe:
3ra.aiel Tammany would have

 

me A as is frecuently remerked, in
to start in the Kindergarten class, Among the caboclos: or
peasants . of ‘the forest,T know of a curandheire who makes
the prognosis ef all severe coughs as follows: é fish sbout
“the size of a sucker is caught and theb pationt 1s instructed
to spit in the living fishes. mouth; the fish is then throw
sk into the water and if he swims menrenn the patient wad

live if down the patient will die, And it is woll recog zed
that

 

if an wouan in Labor wi change shirts with her husband
each wearing the other's inside out, she aitting with his wa
hat ~ in the center ofa ‘twenty-litre: mea sure, she" give Te aNd
tells. light tothe chile" as the phrase goes, much more successfully,
A jung doctorpout in the natte, #614 me that after a nine
league ride the sight of such a thing nearly coupensstes tor
the trouble, |
No one can exag
ee in Brazil, For _— little | ne

 

gerave the effect of the Anerican cinema
wnat it comes once & week