y June 1%th Your letter of June 10th making splendid time got here just in time for my birthday and helped the day on @ lot, And bee fore you stop to call me a toad for writing you on a typewriter, I want to explain that ink isnt easy to get here and another man has my fountain pen for the moment and he is up in Sao Paulo, and that I will write you a longer letter to make up and ask your par=-_ den for it anyway, Gosh how I would like to be there if you decided to grant a pardon! I am going to send you a picture that will, yes it's got. to,make you stop thinking that California is as good as can be had, There can be no place in the world as wonderful as Rio harbor, Most — of th: globe trotters say 36 and I can not imagine a more beautiful ‘nOP more unreal place in all the wide world, The mountains tumble into a bay that reaches in 16 miles throuch rocks and slides and ‘palm-covered hills and the eity with oll Lis pink and blue and. yellow houses seems not a city at all but a few awellings hidden by the trees, Royal Palms that reach eighty feet up into the air & clean emooth shaft and then flare out in a great easy swaying tuft of big shining green leaves, And colors such as I never believed could be except in dreams, When the picture comes. TN as well look up the sailings to Rio! That will settle it! I Ge to Parana in a week I expect and start a survey there of the exbent of hookworm in that part of Brazil, It will be wild- er and I expect rougher work than up to now and will last till October or November I expect, You have a chief guarda or nurse, & man of about 37 in my case, and a microscopist, another doctor and one or two nurses, also men, You go into & country and take a tom you want to do, arrange and give a lecture and then examine and treat the people after for anywhere from 5 days to two weeks, examing far more than you treat, but keeping a careful record of @ll the people so that when a post is established later you can save all the time and get right to work treating ond using a cure as an argument show them how to prevent the recurrence of the disease, What I get out of it mainly is the mnage- ment of men and money and I hope I dont go galley west on either side, I have a good boss here in the Central office who wont do a thing but give me a11 the free rein you can think of giving 4 man, 60 I think things may prosper, You write a very satisfactory sort of letter Marie (Gosh I dont know any Marie; what goes on here in Brazil!) Martha you write a very satisfactory Letter and along in September or whenever this reaches you, forget that Marie wriges a good letter and remember what Martie can do,3;3 and do it, And inasmuchas I got a birthday letter fpom you when would I be writing to return the sensation which was a pleasant one ? When, I repeat, Has Dwink come home yet? And have you seen the Illustriseimo Dr, Schollyms yet? I shall be very worried when I hear he is loose in California so do not write me when it happens, — I asked an old Brazilian woman we were treating how ola she Was, "Thanks be to God I do not know" ahe said, “Well have you any chilaren?" "Z have lots of then" she replied, "Where is the eldest"? Pointing at the railroad dow the valley she said in despair "For the love of God Se; hor ! Before those iron boxes went sliding dow the valley to Rio I could know something about my children, but Nossa Signora how is & woman to to know anything about her family nowadays!" If you dont get a word from S,America roy @ bit know, blame the iron boxes because they are to blame again, Godd night RIO DE JANEIRO, COPACABANA. 7 mik—so=\- ae ert ome lanes l— C ww 7 ee N any | 4 ] \ { +* 1, gotten cone fresh clothes and generally clean + c i ; * ‘ * / f sone of . * y | ee We-- Smillie an ’ I --> have been out on two big fazendaa, to the Itatiaia co and the Fazenda Boa Vista he Ms i ‘ 7 4 " one belong: n botonge to the VidiasPorte fastiy. 1 family, In the first case we ‘were interested in the results of treatuent which Hackett had e 20 or 22 sonths ago, and we treated the same ¢ together with several ot * nade a great diffe ey globin, The work at Boa Vista 3 the present rou Ab Ttafada we were tn a ht ~_— FO very well adapted te our pur place was a cheerful bachelor 1s another t of the place — entirely we felt free. > come and go as we chose, The ; c Pig. fazenda were catisf too strenuous, De sey, - others into having their hes shalls his entire family to take treatment, Antor 0 Pe: vas our man there and I wish you could have seen him shove! the sugar and cheno; .e brom be ‘ing the litt A obeds ouce 40 hi 8 roared ; cox * ° handsome negro wife stood j vhen Antonio hinsel? ran out under the | . ¢ valiantly AL 6 cup of . ccouphediy at the horison ae people de when euaitin revolt, ‘ b ; : ey r 4 é Be » at the Concerts Touc ii ae ay June 28th ---Itatiaia, You should have seen us yesterday, We had a special group to be: direated to see whether our routine treatment is effective in getting all the worms ;--which is important when the medication bills are running into the tens of thousands, Me in command of two slaves whisking white enam- el affairs about the village, going from hut to hut explaining in wretched Portuguese. whet I wanted done, Animation, Delicacy, Gayety, And then a second time around with capsules of vile+- smelling oil of chenopodium, nailing each unfortunate Brazilian _ purgee as he stood groaning in his hut, and greeted every where with a sort of Epeos Salt expression of the eyes and a fresh groan of "NOsg ae Presenting the capsules and roaring ‘"Bngolhe" | t111 the victims choke them dom, Today we counted _ the worms expelled, Average 160 per person, One man had 076, but he was too anemic to be capable of any emotion on seeing them, His friends however rallied well and their circle of mare . ee } — astoni shnent was damned es They een, their may | Sa ay xo ome OS oS”! "By Our Lady will you look at the snakes!" ; fT am getting to the point where I begin on my owm hook down South, which is the first place I have eveer been in ex- cept one or two Clearing Stations in France where I didn't se _ know somebody who knew somebody who I knew etc,etc, Being in 3 Public Health is no sacrifice to my private stock of the same-- Ive been much out of doora,. some Gays il hours in the saddle, Devil taking my nh neers I'm roaming up and down a perfectly glorious country, learning administrative methods first in terns (of Hookworm and later in terms of malaria, r nope. | Patty per ot cent or the hemoglobins in the State of Rio are below 70%, I've seen them down to 10/6 85 to 98 of? the rural population is infecte@ with hookvorn, and with the good cooperation we have — ee with > from the Govt., & totally new strange country and the distance from N.¥, and fleas as the only real drawbacks, you can see an existence pretty full of opprtuni ty to keep ‘busy and away from worrying when i shade be able to earn 7 sult, aie course af I miss a.few objects of inveterate interest such @s an occasional mad merciless dance, a rush to some show or game an occasional (and please God well corsetted) bluee eyed sympatica, and. the chance to see firends I'm in no hurry to forget. But much of these chances fade with advancing age and retreabing front-hair anyhow, so I cant mourn very loud withbut hearing ridiculous overtones, Junho 29th, Today we started work at 6, dark cold and misty, quite like Remy of an early mbrning, and kept count- ing and differentiating till about eleven when we stopped for breakfast, As we finished a old negro sorcerer of some 100 years ca we wearily flatfooting up the road, We had asked out of curiosity for him to come to see us, for he is credited lecally with the power to cast.love and destruction spells , The old fellow was awed by too many Tlie. £ i A MUA UA om i Oi ae AK AM LA Ohm ” strangely dressed men, not evidently in search of his aid seriously, and in his canninesshe said "Oh no, Signors ! If I could do such a thing as Magic it would have made me rich", Well, as a matter of fact it has kept him alive some 100 years here in this valley, with quite a humming trade in curses, especially in slavery days, As our admin- istrator on the fazenda said "If the old man’s magic were effective all the fazendeiros would have been dead long ago from the curses their slaves paid this old man to cast", When you can see the heavy iron manacles rusting in the 7 t 3 barn, scarcely an object of interest as yet,+-- the manacles that bound slaves hands and feet together in a bunch for days at a time, in active use till 1898, you can realize we're just out of the pretty raw stage of life here, I got the most amusing comment on the railroad as aia an instrument of progress and service from an o1d mullatto wonan whose age I was trying to get trom her, "How old are you"? "Thanks be to God Ido not know" "Have you any child~ ren?” "Oh yes", "Where are they"? "Why Signor in the old days it Was allright and I could have answered the Signor, but Nossa Signora! with these iron boxes running: down to Rio so fast how in the name of God can a person know where their family is!" tIen't that delightful ! The cildren here have & variation of our old game of horse, in that they use a bamboo pole half broken in the angle of the horse head to his neck, and with the nose they tap the ground so that it makes just the noise of a single footer---the only centleman's pace here, Juhy 8th Yesterday and today I have been in Caxambu which is ae watering place and mineral spring up in the » tack of Minas, I am wriring much to the excitement of the local Jaca-tatus or country boobs, on the train down to Cruzeiro, on the way home, Hands are blue from the cold, which seems unbearable to the Brazilians, but which is simply enough to make me shiver a little and feel like work, It is a great mistake to think of Brazil as a hot country exclusively--it is far from that, > On July 2 weht down from Rezende to Rio to stay at the Hackekt Hydricks’ for a few days, The ride up the hill Siléie © the Central station was a joy because the chauffeur did not realise what a long distance it was and he sebtetnts had to use lots of gasoline before we arrived, He was very angry to be paid only 20$000 instead of 25$000 and we had the usual = passionate refusals of anything at all, followed by the re- » quests and later commands to get out _-vae embora!--this time by Dr, Hydrick, The taxi men here always work in pairs here one to drive and the other to ride on the front seat and argue when you come to paying the fare, Really the essential thing to realise in all bargains is that these ne if they can possibly avoid it will not work steadily and conscientiously at anything and so are forced fe Shave you for the amount of livelihood they might have been earning since the last - victim was stung p. : | v yi teen The stay in Rio at the Hydrick's was very good fuHf “°° They are a pair of young Southerners who have been down ‘awer~ : here two years, Mrs, H. is very young and simple in tastes and requirements, affectionately threatens to beat her husband whenever he teases her, treats her servant girl so decently” that said girl stays on ant is keen ‘to work for her-=+while . Mrs, H., marvels at her luck, innocently. She is pretty’ tired? — of Brazil and the wanderer's life, but is too young to know ie the situation any more ‘clearly than in terms of "feeling blue", Her husband runs the roost in all things except where her vivid instincts result quite unconsciously in am persistence’ of attack which wears away his interest in the question to be settled and he doesn't bring up the subject again, They have .one small boy 2 éinrat afd named Pete, who has a — amusing face, a sort of intaitile Irish prelate ofm a face, and who talks the most delightful mixture of Portuguese and English, He always starts a rquest in Portuguese and then if he doesnt get his result he slides into English in @ very canny way that speaks volumes for the casual good nature of the maid as contrasted with the more careful hesitation of his Pae e Mae, They make one queer mistake with him which is not common to see nowadays, his Dad is very short with him, insisting on a good deal more foretk thought and care than a kiddie of 2 is capable of maintain- ing, so that there are frequent castigations and, reference to eather is usually followed by a sudden arrest of all Pete's activity, cerebration and innocent cheer, and a coneeikatann on the question"Is He going to give me a whipping and for why"? The end result at 17 years is not _ hard to guess---but I may be wrong. Anyhow the effect at 2 years As pitiful, but Hydrick has thin lips and is a CAROLE NTP Int TO caring enough to see the effect on Pete! s feelings. On the Fourth we went to a dinner and dance at the Central Club --held by. the Americén crowd here, and it was really very good fun, They had the old technique of settling bach counter into place by dancing while the waiters changed the plates,and what with Mrs, Hydrick, Miss Williams, the tot new and rather beautiful secretary just down from New York, and three or four Jaca rainhas, and two or three of the people from the good ship Hollandia, there were enough to manage the evening very, well ,. it, still amuses me to see the , fascinated astonishment of the Brazilians watching the ex Americans heving a good time, The fact that all xkhatk the, .. .. bn moving pictures here are made in the U. S. has influenced the standards of dress here enormously and all the try chic things for men and women here must be at least’on the | pattern of The Anericanos, I Pipe le that Joseph Lee or irs. 50. Hodder will soon be out among the motion picture people tell- ing 'em what Right Living really is ---fa the sake of their in- fluence on the American youth, Or a solemn conclave will be held at the R.C.C's in Sandy Cove on Our Duty towards the "Movies", Considering how very little we are satisfied with life in the U. $. we do a good deal of telling others how to conduct their exist- ences, There are niggers down here who dont have even a chance to read somebody-else's Atlantic Monthly , who are making a happier @ 59 years of life than---than they might if we decided they ought to read it, Last night I went to a soiree Brasiliera at the home of Senorita Nair Paiva in Caxambu, The Dr, of the post took me, or rather with endless frightfully coy loks a trembly giggling the Senorita consented yesterday afterhoon to have us in for the evening. The cassia were all there tamben, and it was very humor- ous, Like us the presi inden want nothing but praise from strangers which is tiresome after the spontaneous variety is spent. I get my second wind though when I see how a little extra laud and flattey willbrighten a dull eye and moisten a parched lip, and I gO on to the limit of my words, whtch are scant but ready for an -osa or an -0oso any time. A piano in “hea@lish condition of discord and tincanniness was the instrument of our relaxation and enjoyment and had it not been for a lovely big rocking-chair which gave the appearance of rest to any thing that sat in it, I would have blown a fuse at the noise shat a Braziliera, playing the works can make — of a Braziliero, ona piano Braziliero, I danced the tango with the local beauties staring excitedly at the third button of ny waistcoat or about that level, with all the grace that markedly fem unequal hang can ever extract from cacophanous music, and what as senoritas is more thanked effusively for the chance, which was agony to t them too--- and for this they think me "muito simpatico" !1} However as the proverbhere says; Cada roda com seu fuso Every wheel to its own speed Cada terra com seu uso, Every land to its own customs, In a week or ten days I shall be off on my survey down sauth and though that will make letters a little more delayed it has advantage of being reall work on me own and in a country cooler when all else is hot, than much of the state of Rio, 4 Peg ia Lavrinhas, a station on the E,F.C.B. ‘ coming down from the trip to Caxambu, sf July 13th, Well, Alice, your letter of June 15 arrived just on July ith whtth is a date of great celebration in Brazil with me because it was my birthday, You say the next one to you should be a rval letter, wekl here's hoping, The picture of the funny little huts I took at Sao * penile where the Government runs @ big snake farm, They ened more pesieviiedl snakes dom here in Brazil than any wh re in the world and lots of people were killed by them pa your, Some of the Braziliang doctors got interested in trying to stop all these deaths and so studeid the snakes and their poisons, They found that if you could catch a | rattlesnake and hold on the right way yo could take aa his poison out of hiss thror sh a hoblow needle and then if you gave just a weeny bit of it to a horse om one day and a weeny little bit more in a week and @ bit more in a _ week after that,adding a little bit more everyweek to the cmount of snake poison you stuck into the horsés skin every time you could get the horse so used to the Snake poison that you could give him a tremendpus dose of it and it wouldnt hurt him at all, It is just the same with mosquito bites at the Farm ~~~ they always itch more at the begin- ing of the summer nail in date August, Well when the horse is so strong against the snake poison that he can stand as much venom as would have killed him at the beginning, the doctors take a little of his bieod out of a vein in his neck (which doesnt hurt as much as acrack with a whip), and then they save the blood in the ice- box, When a man aren in Brazil is bitten by a snake that he thinks is poisonous he can get in any small towm some of the horse' S blood from this laboratory and by injecting it under his Skin he can be protected against the snakes poison by the horses blood, Perhaps wee think this is a poor life for the seal but conpared with the ordinary horsés 1 ive here it is a para dise at Butantan the name of the town where the snakes are kept, Butantan is a suburb of sao Paulo, hae . They have lots of bticr’ kinds of snakes ‘of course, The giboas up north are 50 feet long and can strangle a cow quite easily, Their lower jaws are not attached to their heads’ as ‘ours are, and” 80 they ‘can sallow the cow just sci as you might pull your stoching WP over a toy cow, But the giboa doesnt like the horns, so he coils near a re tree ora rock and ‘then with ‘the horns stall sticking ‘out toute He ‘as niiaes ore by the ties se po that the horns hit it and are ction: nel and the skull is umpled in so it will get digested better, I saw the skel- eton of one of these snakes and it was naerly 40 feet long, ’ A friend of mine here took some piotures of some of the Bast Indians who have settled at the West Indies where he was working, He took a picture: of a woman ‘and it came out so well he went and showed it to her, He had printed the picture on Velox paper which as you know isa @ black and white paper, The Indian woman was furious at him and tried to stick him with her knife, because she had never seen a snapshot before and thought thet it was a magical mirror and that he had turned her black, Dr. Smillie and I had f the same sort of thing happen to us Up in the Anterior, 2s We were testing how good people's blood Was by pricking their ears and seeing how red the drop of blood was on @ piece of blotting paper, The curandiero or merlicine man there did not like to s6ée his patients being treated by anybody else so he told them that we were selling the blood on the blotting. paper to the Devil, So 911 the people ran home and we had Tt left to work with in that tow! That was only just a few weeks EEO. ‘Ls come | os In the farmers’ houses here ell the anime in and out of the house at their own sweet will, “Me peo- are all very polite though and when the pig tries to rub his back against my leg they" yell “ststt" and the pig gets &@ kicknout of doors, ‘There are lots more humming birds here than in the United States, ans are , called beijo-flores | in Bragilie which means kiee-flowers, a an going to get some stuffed ones which you can see or have as you chose when I get home, cob Instead of stirrups the ladies when they ride horseback Naee put Shear feet into big brass sandals Which hang just so you can put your foot right into them the way you would if you. sur all the leather off your. shoe oround the heel, And the saddles have a big silver plecethat keeps. you from slipping forward when the horse ghes down & very steep hill, or when he shies ‘suddenly, Por ana reason qT havent gone - costing down my horses neck off ‘ene the ground Teter iat