ee: ah in 2 os oF r Ut ‘ie, in a protestional-natentos, eort Or way, ‘to be | etlenced rate rine ss with a aa by the fazendero wie cane out in the hhalfedar oo in his hand to via us "Bom dia"! He was o large fat shortenecked = ‘man with porky eyes, : 8 ‘rough unkempt beard, a swarthy skin, but - pather gracious manners and obviously nobody ' 8 fool. rie ied tue _— up ‘some low end cramped stairs to a large dark. room where we sm had some excellent corfee and bread and were eyed with giesling, curiosi gy fro. ‘the depths of the kitehen, by what later prove, to be his aeughter, ‘The damm came on quickly and soon we went—_ ne aedicina i ae out to some of the colonistas howses to give: various members of the family--- usually & very weary and wicore setted mother, a tired end. wrinkle? father pale under hic sun and an assortment of undersized tired ¢ ildren, on for every year since the Catholic church lent its authority. The baby always howled and spat out 1/3 of the ‘medicine, but the guarda had ‘De- “eomme an expert and didnt lose his temper at all, but shovelled. in the 500 with all the zeal ef-« that comes of an incomplete training in the art of medicine ,: ‘Then wandering round the fasenda : till there wareno poss@bilities of any poisoning, from the aedeine I was shown more amusing ne. fruits, insects, and methods of farm manageuent than I have “ever” seen in 60. _ohort a-epacuief..) w fruit on low vines ine, There nere cfd nes th scem a ¢ross “between 2 squash and an orange and aeice delicious ay ae, bre e) ; e yell : doces or candied fruit. On gnarle: low trees I pAeseR, ang, at jaboticaba, a berry & Bbawt the eize of | . large chorry DLs A the! flavor of a jJaboticabs--- the beot fhat can be done by | of teitins you what to expect wi ven you ta te them for li they gx cts 5 me : +e as ge or tae. tres each fron a tiny stiff little Rew otioging rd downland, And erwling on the _— were ants of ws ware of en nee oe 1b of “were cential hime 4 One day a new linea U.S, found 4 line. a. orted-circuited ond sent & lineuan out to find. ene a & the matte, was, The man found one of the nests just | like the one I saw , promply climbed the pole attached his Se atus to the wire and. called up the. Lines on : , Mell, who 4s causing the trouble?" said the fume h Jao de Barro” gaia the nan laconieally, hav seen the same ae ni ‘before, wv Seis wei’ ee a: omelet 4 2 : "e212 him that the Company is going to start legal | 8 against him" said the Manager, — | ney have a pleasant musical and ve Me 5 the grain out in the rural districts here, I ir shed on the fazenda there was placed on a big stone base the of a cedar tree about two feet ak and hollowed out in the er into a huge bowl, gle aing red grain of the wood polished re ; constant use, The rest of the tree, along heavy log, was bel- y 4 ‘ bowl tas 2 very. large peg fixed at rig ee | be: " and the end sticking out of the shed was hollowed intoa | oe eee He " aah ie DP certh Oa ; | spoon which they led a emall brook frou @ chute ef or — ‘ ; Fes ; f , i : , r. # , The water filled upthe apoon, with a loud ercak she log nd. with athud fel) @ down,poured out the water back into opps on to refilis-the other end with the peg thus pounding dom = wih heavily. It made a pleasant noise, dull sor or Po dless variety of ner even inag pw The Majoolo, A cart with wicker sides for taking ‘coffee to the Railroad, coo | i ; i j af ar “again, or you would be reactive : with greot cerenony ane hospitality in some “irtefloor parlor imply Dentel Boone all over a to seca varlot, of ‘shtngs besides opilaca pe the | native nane for hookworn, of things: that the local nedi cine man the Curae diero has tol’ the people are incurable, and they bake his word as religiously as some take Reo, Cabos iin otier parts or the norid, I just Lor ged for a few inctruaents a it! 8 r.ther fun to be taken for & aingele worker when yom. are ‘Sure ef your results! The doctor at Atibaia Was DR, Ay Pimenta2 Salgado, nose name in Portucuece me ne pepper and salt, and who Was rather amusing colipamy and a source of some new taforuetion about Brash, s He has ‘blue eyes --an glieh grandfather crt whieh is a dis- f tinct relief nowadayee & more weleome and safer Sign of relise ae bility than it Was at hones, That sounds ridiculous probably but blue eyes mean less of the. tar=brush, and as a rule a. know that means ‘something, He toldime a gesture ~— Was new --- if you snap your fingers against your neck at scans " dont ask me to talk about. such a thing !" and another, ‘ir you put phe. thumb of the right hand in the palma of the left and turn it - ae it neans "the % man is a thier --- he's cheating you. » He tells es me he nade xanan $3000, an the erippe epidemic here i ast epring. in about 6 weeks and just. barely. out of School at ‘that, On the 6th I go to Resende for Some , ‘field work there, It. is about three hours out of Rio and, in. perfectly lovely country, Thank the Lord 4 got my sense of direction back while I was at Atibata, | it was £0 hard to think of the sun coming oF _ from th: north! And at first dom here Tr was lost beyond hope zs . * Pe ez Nall becau: e I couldnt keep 1 ay directions strc ght. << An getting very, much tint: rested in 200logy with | SO a mony new thinge +o, see. corm here, Tt As still time pr ,Darling — saye to aie a new species arter yourself} He has refused a moaquise and tyo LickSe=— I would be proud of any thing. There are entirely strange diseases here that do not abpes in our = S ish bonbhonhe,, ame’ fresh. y Aeseripea < BA hl cove ed * notice the 4] , t beeNS > uals Hoe alee but ‘that ie not | uncoamon An living in foreign countedhs and - Ua etds remind me ‘that tere are euch “things - ‘It mill be oad to have the same ‘Asolation froa th: r otof people a Te: (ards Brazil ‘when 1 get ‘back that r nad about Burop: an war when I was at hone. ‘?will be fun aeotius people froue=--Brazilt ae They will be live bis ds Ahmany caneseayou shoul gee how bre : crossing of the eqé ater enlarges the realns o. “topics accepte c in: poli tek conversation! A dinner party is ‘something | else again | Ma WUSs , to what at was in ‘Boston! “Tf any of he offs, rune have stamp collections I am Ridin fo: & position as Toren agent for @ Brazil and Wiad ” pleased be serve ‘ : I do not believe tha. Parwell is regretting his trip at all, and though I never ‘thought him one to frivel overuch r'22 bet he is pretty serious minded when he comes back Take hin round a bit as soon as can deen at 4s hard and tiring work to try and bear the burdens of the world at this particular stage of | the game, I should be pe 80 interested to talk with hin shen ne eomes back, 1 shall be ‘Interested to know what nis - Ampressions of fnelahd are, rd hope thet the biological details. of your family are beginning to’ take less and lees of your time, the brushingof. teeth, the wiping of noses, the cutting of cectk ait God knows » what more, Make then take ¢ re of themselves for & bit and. put in a prayerful half hour each day thinking of what you'd most Like to do and doin it, Just becuuse mz you have had a, Large and happy family, nor lost a husband to death or to indifference like many other women, nor lost a son in the war, these are no good reasons for not being as happy as con be now that the farily is fair into college, you'll make better hay in this bit of sunshine 4f body is given over to spirits end @hapsrs' your scrutiny is given to theatre programs instead of the eternal diaper, Without wore advice from a brother as old as Jin was when your ‘second was born (figurative way of saying young but not so awfully young) you can continue your wellimown domestic triumphs unaided ~--but do write me some ~* a2 > to see siene of people here being ceptions A Vceh- 2 by | Age It be ‘ules and we have just fini ched the morning mecal called almoco, at 11:50 and Smillei and I are sitting in the bed reon wad ting for the spirit to come over us to make — out a list of all the people we have treated gince 6 this morning — both in the Santa Casa de Misericordia and elsewhere, We are no- longer in the state of Sao Paulo but dow near Rio in a tow by | the name of Rezende, situated much like Colorado Springs, with splendid high mountains to the west of us and With the same beau- _ tiful weather to bless us all day long, We came on the 6th and today is the 8th ; yesterday. went into & long day of wondering ‘Up and dow the village street looking for apeetes cases to treat today---an attempt to test the _ routine treatment for its efficiency in getting rid of He infection and to try out the value of some more fresh chenopodium, I begin keen about the work in ‘the wee, ts given. Yous An the native huts, end in the voluntary ros quests for treatment from the people who have geen what it has _ done for their friends, The number of negroes here 48 much above what it is dow in Sao Paulo, and the houses are even more sketchy than ever, ah Part of our work Ls in. the 1e0al santa , Casa, & combine ation of poor house and hospital, It is large and airy but none | too clean ana fhoating about. there a that same old acrid smell of the poor ard. unkempt, that makes ime th Peers 8% least that it is not Russia with any excuse for closing the windows ! There is & Girl who propels herself about the floor ona her hands, legs long since paralysed, who eifts the corn and leers at the str gers or beats the wandering chickens cats and dogs who are far more real to her than touz us, There ie an old man who wonders about telling us that if he had had any sense he would have taken kero- sene years ago for it brings the air in his body just as it takes the air into a lamp--and he then produces a bottle of it from his dirty pocket and drinks plenty of it for a dewonstration, "I used to like Jao Periera da aay once” he murmurs frequently "but tha e to God I dont likr him any more", And all. the other inant 9 of a Portugues or rather a Brazilian poor house, and eal ruel stupidities, 3 3 | Outside two Royal, Palme readh’ up their flawless shafts seventy or eighty fect wi th a ‘thick rich collar of green at ve top from which’ sway the innuaerable: otately Leaves--- one of the most. wonderfully ‘eatisractory trees r have ever : | seen, And to ‘the west down a picturesque street. of blue, white yellow or bronzed houses | stands an ola chureh against ‘the deep blue’ of these strange irregular mountains, Long teans of oxen lazily drone dom. the etrest, the whells creaking _ exactly as the pookeasé tn Fathers study 1 used to, louder and never ending while the catr meee turns its solid wood= en wheels, 7 ae Last night the village drunk, Gabriel, cme “round to see us, 70 years old, but happy with pinga ‘(the native whis key) ‘and insisting on long conversations with himself or any one ‘else, only too: ‘aelighted to sing and dance for us ‘in the moonlit garden the songs of the early days when he mas ae slave and a man he knew who tried to kill his forner mas- ter, He is ap rfect natural clown, and ‘I can see him sfill- dancing extravaganbly and to a chorus of pers a be 3 _ gong to a flea Eatava na cosinha Fazendo o meu jontar © diabo da pulga — Nordeu neu ‘calcan Olhe como pula, Como transita, Como e travessa Esta MALAL GA» Pulga te juro, pou testemunha Pego-te no dedo Estaloe-te na ania, Sacudo a coberta, Torno a sacodir, O diabo da pulga Nao me deixa dormir, Father's polyglot tendencies will probably suffice to un- ravel all this, which was sung in a very thick gutteral ‘way that I could only recognize parts of, Aletter from Hackett tonight confirms my impression which I wrote to you that I would go south to do a survey there, He says "We have two pieces of work to be done this year ince the bugets expire on. canenber Sist, These are the surveys of — Santa Catherina and Parana,, Since the work in Santa Catherina is to be followed by the immediatexk installation of an inten- give post, it would be well to @o Parana first, The trained personal from the Parana survey con then be taken te Santa Cc Catherina , and later used as bhe nucleus j0F an intensive post, You will wnt to begin this. work in July," Which when translated into terms of one U,5, syllable. means te that I am going into the coolest part of Brazil ame white people than anywhere else to do the work of finding out the extent of dnfection in a state and later going to do the same thing in even @ cooler and more southern part of Brazil this later time anong the great German section ! LOok up your map and find me ---for rin be there by the . time this gets to you, That was rather e oxtraspeineey news about Gerald Seldon ridge that you wrote me, Gene Prston had taken the eiieens of rprise out of it by what. he had said to me ‘the year I was out ink the Springs but I cant say At is any less impressive, AS you. or 1924 ought to be a great, celebration and J think you can count on my being, at ‘the table. with a few remarks about how well I like the U.S, food and what it @ll means to have a large family of siblings and a supernormal Mother and Father ef the ANGLO-SAXON race ! In these things. T am content, All the afternoon we have spent at the. Santa Casa, wathhing o girl with severe symptoms of pobsonings after her dosage thie morning, and poor old Smillie whose wife died here — in Brazil last fall in childbirth, hoe all the scene recalled to him every time he comes near to death, I dont suppose that I will ever have to see so much as at Reily--- and.surely I hope not, She is much better this evening poor ‘thing, When, we left. the hospital the oravling girl and the old old. man were. sitting out together on the stone poreh in the twilight quiet in the quietness that cannot aif it wousd---aimply without help. Good night to you both w 4 oT fl +} Out of the Cosinha window Itatiaia, Coming over from the mangero tonight I passed two enormous palms, splendid, smooth-shafted, Royal Palms,. eighty feet high, quiet and motionless in the soft brilliant moonlight, against the strange irregular outkine of Itatiaia,cloud ridden and high seats the white huts, It is a village by day of bullock carts squeaking down from the hills,bringing réce, beans, and other coarse farm produce to exchange them for salt and such implements as they may be satus cil ae 2 But for all the beauty and novelty I do not forget that part of the world where hushed,stark, two-storied farm- houses stand, not low white-walled casas fustnl with ie the chords of guitars, nor where flutters white birches in the eae and not tall whkke shining-leaved palms, With moonlight on its slow swaying leaves--- well you say its unforgetably beautiful but the chief trouble de is that such beauty is forgetable, it surpasses memory and all that stays is the remenbrance of being overwhelmed. ha My B “ appes & Crude thatch of banana leaves, to& the rhy tha o = Oo. June i#th finds Smillie and me up on a huge fazenda at Itatiaia the highest mountain in Brazil, busy treating the natives here on some specially controlled work to determine the effectivensss of the previous treatment they had, qt is very satisfactory to gee that the hemoglobin of those whe have had the treatment be- fore is notably higher then it was when they viere first tre.ted, | and te see the willingness of the people to take the treatment, - Smillie is a very good sort, with the saving virtue of in- ‘ gathable curiosity on a wide range of subjecte and consequengly now well informed on many things here in Brazil, He has been . doing the sane sort of work in the U.S, before coming dow here and has had several amusing experiences dom in N,Carolina, | When a diagnosis was in doubt yesterday he remarked that if Wu. were in Carolina it would be easier because with children. there can be only two things the matter; "Hives" and "thrash" , there can be the bold hives, the inw ra hives, or the plain hives, The bold hives is alway s fatal, Inward hives are where no rash irs, Thrash is any disease of the throat or mouth and include s ‘what we call diphtheria, tonsillitis, thrush, bronchitis and peritonsillar abscess, The treatment for thrash is to ‘pass the. enild backward through a white muled collar, The chief cause of death is perishing’ to death and when pushed for an elucidation of the term the county clerk ‘xpiained that "it happens that way", I call these things to mind when tempted to think that things are a bit backward in Brazil! You'd have been a perfect companion at a party I saw night called thie peourge ad 4 tHael« ee a It was a negro dance, , Straight fron Africa, held u on the maw moon, in the 11 moonlight and around a fire mder im of two "tambours" or rawehide drums beaten witht the heel of the hand, When I saw an excited buck in the store about eight in the evening buying — ten bottles of rum and taking them away in a huge demi john it. vas clear there was a party to come, These dances are always on church holidays and are preceded ‘by uilach prayer, so that Smillie and g waited till ten o'clock before we heard the thud of the tambour, Wandering down toward the negro quarters we came upon @ mule train camping by the road, the aninals just unloaded were rohling. in the road while the men cooked, coffee and warme : ed up some beans for the evening meal,around a fire in taedust of many @ former mule train, The nen told us that the pretos (Portuguese for blacks) would take a bit more time with their prayers, but that soon the "jongeo" would heads In the bright moonlight I drifted dow to the little chapel, which looks for all the world like e parched whitened bone on the tree~ less field, and listened to the endof the service, It was wild wailing and intoning, wiyh the left hand holding the forenead while the ri cht ‘herd the chin, A dog, suffering %t terribly from the fleas wandered in and out among the wor ahs p ers onthe? | chey screaned requests to Sao Antonio, Suspect} ing, by .o merely Congregational intuition that services were nearly over I drifted back to the fire where Smillie was still talking to the men of the mule train, We could hear the queer resonant thud of the tambour, cetting higher and higher pitched as they were dried. by the fire,and soon church was out and we saw the white figures of the negroes Gresses — ‘@rifting across the fields, We followed and came toa a hut with a small cleared dirt yard in front of it and a roof of = + {te gos? banana leaves covering one part near the house, Nothing can gtiite describe the noise that two men were making on she tambourg--- a most inticate ,evasive rhythm fpom a most primitive drum, A combination ef resonant thud and shallow rattle , the contrast: will carry a league on & quiet night, A tall very black buck stood swaying and a barefooted lorkskinned owmers and a stray our i‘ pe 7% if 3 s * ~~ i 6 . o * ‘ “ us Pe mer . - crouching by ‘the fire-light, in nae PRghL nad. a. tinean with seeds in it,which he struck against hie Left "tana in rhytha |, with the drummers, He was singing a, loud dance song also in perfect time, and as a chorus to ‘this the negro wonen standing at the edge of the floor wauled a series of yaheas ah, Other negroes not singing tool turns rushing into the center of the @aeet and choosing a wouen fron Uhe chorus danced around her — with wild leaps and snapping of the legs. and general muscule ar taut extravagance, whi Le she unconeernedly apun slowly ever to face her. partner at two poles of an ebhene oval through whieh they anced, This to nothing but rhy thin and wild songs from ten till six the next morning. I woke at four by chance ond still could hear the strange Dea hnne of the tambours far away and» an occasional welling up of the | song into the night, Later I learned that the big coon ae Song an"eniex ” or conundrum and if the chorus couldn't anewer back ke correctly he cang the same question all night at them and in the morning he would have tom sive the answer they should have guessed, I apoke of the mule train, You'a have liked to eee then coming dow the valley road, first a distant tinkling cloud of dust in the moonlight, then a beautiful 61047 ringing dimes of four notes, end soon the lead mule gk quite proudly ahead of all the others and his omers, his collar hung with bells which rang clear and true,as he passed, to point the way to the heavy~laden drooping followers that scuffled along behind hin, with theér exhaustedly heéling the whole procession gut of veg agacu oa duty aaneuls sl They have an anusing, phrase for board and lodging when it is included in a man's Pays He ie payed "mi Lho" or wet, whereas af Lavine: 49 ab 4 "secca® ary. I wonder whet happened to the search for my good o14 cigarette case, I maven) heard of at at all,