At the International I. met, Dr, Austin, a Philadelphia man who
knew Hal Thomas and Arthur Lyon at the R. Inst, Also Dr. Pearce
of Pennsylvania, who is going round on an inspection tour of all
the South American countries for the Foundation, He is about as
approachable as a stone wall round a cemetery, but proves rather
a cheerful duck at the end of a long attack and no fool at the
main. chance, He used to ig to Marion in the dark ages, and so
knew the Sweetsers, He told me a story typical of the Brazilian
method of expression,--- a grammar gave the local definition of
language as "WHAT IS LANGUAGE?" “Language is divided into three
forms: iWritten 2 Spoken 3 Gesticulated,

Met also br Hydrick wno did the
H¥ in the Camayan Islands, trfiidad
and tobago, A very nice Southerner
a man with brains enough to go to

England as a Rhodes scholar and not

 

waste his time studying

Se a ¢
Sih

woh al or er ‘
set Ne

* Bie

stead of Englis shnenamne their. ideas,

   

= over to Nicktheroy, across
the harbor on the eastern side and
there at the Hacketts we had a del-

Z v

icious warm swim and a pleasant mi

   
dinner---waffles off an electris iron at the table and
some beans much like howe . I dont suppose there are
many sunsets in the world more beautiful than the ones
you see from Nicktheroy,

Coming back with Hydrick I saw an exampite of
what others have noticed here,--the solemn determined
way the Brazilians have a good time, They try not with
the jerky, selfconscious mortified abandon of some
sections of the Nordic race, but with amelancholy, dis-
tant look that the experts say hides a tremendous whirl-
wind of happiness, At any rate he simply stares with”
joy at an American who really is noisy and happy and
original in his fun, Hackett says that an American can
do anything dow here and the Braziiians say to them-
selves “He is an American!" or"The Americans are apract-
feal people, he must have a reason", This polite and
cautious of three or four boys from the battleship
Ov6(#6" PUEBLO who solemnly imitated a barnyard scene
in the street in Nicktheroy was no doubt made by all

intelligent Braziliane|

 

 
4

April goth. Dr, Pierce gave a luncheon today to the members of
the Commission and their wives, where I met Dr, Darling and also
Dr, Crowell and his wife, Darling is a tall,long-haired, open
eyed man of ideas; he'd be at the head of a now religion if he
were not at the head of the ranks in this new phase of medicine,
He 1s aperson who loves vistas, medical and anthropological es-
pecially- and the way he talks of the Nordic race , the Mediterr-
aneans etc,, is most fascinating, because he knows a great deal
about it, Smillie thinks he knows more about mosguitoes than all
but two or three other men alive and I don't doubt it. The Cro-
wells knew Don in the Philippines and have been mbst kind to me,
He is at the Oswaldo Cruz Institute as the Pathologist, She seems
rather the worse for her time in fhe Islands, and looks very tira ,

Dr, Chagas of the Institute was there also and I got along with

him fairly well in French --- it is going to be my salvation

until I get some Portuguese, Chagas is going to the U.S. and if
you get a chance to hear him, do so,

After dinner I went up on the hill and watched the sunset
over the bay, It is the most beautiful place I have ever seen,
Rio de Janeiro,

In the evening sat and talked with Pierce and Austin. The.
night was wonderful and you should see and. smell the night here!
The tobacco is GOOD,

From what Hackett says I shall go to Sao Paulo with Smillie
and get familiar with various mosquitoes and worms and the sim-
pler phases of the Portuguese tongue for a month or so, and then
return to Rio with a chance to really get to work, I Suspect that
I will be sent to the state of Santa Catherina to do a Hx survey
and then perhaps to keep on there in charge of a few posts, The
work here in Brazil is opening up with a most gratifying and tan-
talizing rapidity, Tor example there are eleven enormous counties
that have requested suMtare lately but we can't help them because
we are so short of trained men, That is a months crop of requests
---and look at the size of Brazil! I see where I get what I came

for -- experience in health administration, ©

 
April 2ist, After lunch with Hydrick and Alves at a delight-
queer restaurant down town we went over to Nicktheroy and
had a row over to the outdide beach with an Englishmen
by the name of Waugh, who has just married Dr, Hacketts secret-
ary and is living at the H's house, ‘Twas pleasant seeing an
Englishman again,

At 8:30 in the evening we took the train for Campos,
a Sugar town in the state of Rio, and after a
very hot and close ride arrived the next morn-
ing at 7, The R.R, was called the Leopoldina
an English affair and it burns wood ---nor is
it more prosperous inappearance than it need be,
WS went to the post in town where the guardas bring in the
bring in the work for the microscopists, and then we went
then we went out to the field, where in the
heart of the sugar cane country a large blue
see house gives quarters to the men who
ride about from village to hamlet, giving treatment-and coli
treatment and collecting specimens, The
sign outside on two high posts driven into a five foot anthill
read COMMICAO ROCKEFELLER. The guardas are all rather super-

ior men and ride well these funny little single-footing horses,

 
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| 26
April 22 i. & ”
“Hackett and Smillie and I went out to a suburb well out
of town early this morning to see a place where there has been
a great deal of malaria among the laborers in a large brick-
yard, Giine Cue pool to pool scooping up shallow pans of water
and spooning out the larvae to take home and hatch out, thus we
spent a very hot four hours, The sea wter has eaened in to a con-
Siderable extent in the pits from which the clay has been taken
and forms pools of graduated salt content. We took specimens to

*

be tested for salt %. Brick yards are entirely uncontrolled and
unadvised in the matter of the drainage of their pits here; so
far as I know,

As we went along the road I remarked to Hackett about the
way the pullock-carts were droning and squeaking--you could hear
them quite a long way off before you came upon them. He said e
that the oxen have to be whipped all the time unless they can
have that squeak to cheer them on the way, so the driver s put
charcoal in the axle, and the senile is enough to convince any
living creature that something goes on, The towns make them tone
it down with soap os nk the city limite. .

We got to the hotel to a very formal dinner given by the
Crowells to the DR Pearce, with Mr, Morgan the U.S. Ambassador,
as one of the chief guests, It took an interminable time. I had
a simple creature to converse with---most of the time it was
serving, for she never returned anything but a few easy nal
underhand, and I got well cleared out of leads bythe end of the -
evening. Mr. Morgan gives the impression of a porcine dilletante,
the sort that wears a check suit, black pearls,and with the
handkerchief in the sleeve, and a hewiahake like a warm oyster
or a surgeons rubber glove filled with warm water, He is said
to be shrewd , and commanding of respect in the later stages of
acqu aintance, and is a great favorite with the Brazilians,

I think it would be interesting to know what happens to

our natural antipathy when we smother mt for utilities sake,

April 25
Smillie ieft this morning for Rezende, but it didnt
{

Seem wise for me to speed up tp quite that extent, so I stayed
at the hogel and didnt get up till one, Pearce and Austin led
an equally lazy life |]
Brazilhan meals are mot on our schedule at all, In
the early morning they nothing but strong coffee and perhaps
a little bread, At 10;50 or 11:00 they have almoco, a com-

a ee bined breakfast and lunch,

 

 

 

then comes jantar at 5:00

and thereafter nothing at all.
They are very fond of meats and
greasy things, and beans are
the only vegetable as common

as our potato, Ther is a great
plenty of fruit but they do

not eat it much, and have quite
a lot of rules about the eating
of itn milk and oranges NO!
Fruit with breakfast ? NO! etc,

Limes are common and Pearce

S SOE HT oe

am § x, :
a ER ey
4 yy ak ae *
OA
7 ||

says that everything we take
lemon on is better still with
lime, abacate especially, and ‘in tea, Oranges can be bought
for 1$000 or about 25¢ a hundred, and of course bahanas

are cheap too, Mamaos are melon-like things (our name

for them is paw-paw) which have the flavor of Easter lil-
ies and are good, My stomach is meeting a total stranger
about twice a day now , ,

Rio is the most beautiful city now, especially
at night and from Nicktheroy, They dont care what they
spend in street lights, millions of them in long twinkling
lines along the sea or sparkling in festoons and chainsn
on the mountains. The plan is not to have a certain amount
of light for a certain anoint of money , put to have it look
well; and it certainly succeeds,

April 26th sc
Up before dawn to catch the train for Rézende
27
The ride to the ststion in the auto was very quiet and beautiful

the chauffeur seemed to have pleasure in going that way,
©

 

This is quite unlike the normal Brazilian chauffeur, who has

& very niggery idea of driving and is hair-raising to a degree

fe

fou!

2
he

the way he cuts behind street cars etc,, taking chances
that would make Barney Oldfield turn in his grave, It is funny
to see four policemanto a block, standing inthe center of the

Sidewalk to keep the people walking only on the right Side,

Prey “gt pater
snails spall at ii

Panorama visto do Internacional Rio de Janeiro

Me eos 8,

“ f a
Sg <5 eo re Gee
See Tae, WORM Ca ia eel

ins

“ t
et ed
‘ 5 a
Att ~ bared Ms oie |

 
while automobiles are threatening death out in the streey,
Writing this on the train finds me climbing up

and up these bananaz and palm-covered mountains in an

ordinary coach, A good roadbed and in good time, The

sun 1s still very hot but the air is more refreshing t

han in Rio,

Imet Smillie in Rezende safely and we went on to
p20 Paulo, a long but interesting ride into country of
good eleveationand perhaps more civilized than around RIO,
Sunday 27th. |

Things here in §.P. are extremely interesting,
just as they were in Rio, The country, rich beyond

computayZion, boombng, graft-sustaining, fazendas yield-
ing 20 to 30% a year, scant native culture, careless,
raw, active eager,---- this country is our own country
of 1830 to 1850 all over again. States Rights are far

stronger than Federal power,

 

eee et et EE Sn a

Vista Geral de uma Fazenda de Café — E. de S40 Paulo.

 

They are keen for the Rockefeller Commissao---it
is in demand far beyond its ability. What with my trav-
elling expenses paid, with new places opening up every-
where, 4 UREA amount of money to work with and every
kind of country in the world to be visited and work to
be done in many of them, I feel satisfied I shall get

valuable administrative experience plus an extraorginarily
“inkereanine life along other paths,

7 ; 28°
Most of the food is new, the cenguage is new but Got too
hard , there is going to be enough interesting medicine to
keep @ man busy on that alone, and there is enough contact
with everybody----from the Naval Attachees wife round the
circle meeting the Indian sqaw at the place where the

ladies drink, gamble and keep cool,

When we were. out in Campos scooping ap the larvae, Smiiltie

said "If only my elinteal professors could pm me now!" But

 

after considering it we decided that they pay 4100 a week for

the chance each summer and refer to it as fishing, whereas we
get get paid for doing it ---and, catching no fish either we

score morally by not calling gw it"fishing",
I expect to call it off here after about a month or two
of vey + Re hookworm, malaria and Portuguese, And in June or

July I! ll go to Santa Catherina to make a survey there ~=-

nice cool country, I'm told,
This town of sao Paulo is a delightfully cool wellkept

Californian town in ahigh rolling section of hills, and in
all the obvious ways a good place to live an, it ae not aas
beautiful as Rio but nothing could be very well, though it is
more cool and comfortable,

“-gmillie bought a parroqueet yesterday in Rezende and we
solemnly carried the little green devil through two lines of
swell Brazilian soldiers in the station last night, who were
standing at attention, awaiting a pair of French Commissioners
who came down with us on the train, After this impressive
reception to the bird, and an extremely affectionate and excite.
ed greeting by young John Smillie, aged 4, iis parroauale met
tragic end by being under the advancing toe of draudnotner
Anderson---- and now the only thing that stands Prate is that
there are lots more paroqueets in Brazil and we were going to
get another anyway. Good luck tonyou all and dont worry that
these pages aren't numbered---much of Homer, we are told was
carried in the heads of those who liked his stuff---and I shall

do better when I settle down,
 

 

 

II — Mussurana (Oxyrhopus cloelia) matando uma jararaca (Lachesis lanceo-
latus) serpente venenosa

 

 

eis
 

of a single long holiday in the. summer, As r said well oboe
ved, excepting the men who make a tidy. penny each holiday
by hiding in the office buildings and arresting the people
who try to work against the law---the detective ae given
half the fine! |

The last three days Smillie and I have been getting up
at six and hurrying over to the Santa Casa ade Misericordia
a huge hospital run by the Catholic Sisters, to run through
some clinical tests on the use of beta-naphthol as a remedy
for hookworm, The patiemts are all uneducated Brazilians,
in one of the eye wards, most of them having trachoma, and
all of them well infected with Hw (hookworm), It is simply
a perfect little laboratory we work in, though the gift of
as much as five milreis (41,) would be so frightfully liber
al an act that you'd be put in the papers for it instanter,
Where the money comes from to run the whole big place is
problematical---exceptathat the Catholic church is behind it,
Were it nog for the awful. numbers: of flies and the crowding
of patients one on a high bed and one on the floor beneath
him, the hospital would be quite presentable, The gardens
around which the buildings lie cloistered are of course 1
lovely, There are royal palms, fir trees that come dow only
to 15 feet from the ground with a little hedge of young bam~
boo in pots to make a cool little retreat under the fir tree
complete, And a dull droning noise fills the air, pouring —
out of the imposing, chapel that etends inthe center of the

 

garden, --- the prayers of the sick for relief from their
ilis, When one of our patients, Jose Boli, a pasty faced
little defective with trachoma and an unqunchable grin, pray-
ed this week it worked wonders and Jose is host no longer
of 768 hungfy H* worms and is fast convincing me that even
if you dont prevemt H* recurring in Brazil you can do an

enormous lot of benefit to some pretty miserably 111 men
moe o a

: ‘ ME shee ; ae : Ie es :

CU Gate OE an Ree ee : egos 4 fa 50%
11 ie sca 1 éna
ee. tat reg Tie

een eee fas 5 bigs Mage
oe keep Hi ning

, which under ‘the elpcumstances io an

 

that x a1 am going ‘to y Wis taeriea,
rtd & ing ‘th 4 n g ~-ny
1¢ wher 1 my eyes open o

ane ae is
ae T t : }
a Mey te r ‘its . “al . we j

 

 

 

i) on “the graceful paim waving ‘by ay Puan
.. ~ oa winter suit that I brought ‘down hére has not
“peen too hot yet, and it bids fair to grow cooler eti.l,
penn ah overcoat will never be a necessity, .

“"ghe food here ‘at the Instituto Paulista is simply

" “delicious especially the medt, f an‘getting Mo’ that 'T can

“get my gastric claims attended to by the waiter pretty well
but he is shocked more than he ean help showing by the small
meais I take and the ever phesent "Chega" with which I waive

“aside” three courses ‘of meat or tree kinds of jelly. The coffee

here is simply delicious and the Brazilians take it the way
the’ English take tea, Theres @ big differencé in their sugar

hoe though; it is fine and flakey and dissolves almost immediate-

rae in any size cup, ‘Of course the fruit ‘de ‘good especially
some of these things ‘I have never tasted before,

a ‘ art a ee
ee & Me ws

Up on ‘my “walls: ‘here’ already hang the pictures that

“adorned the walls at 355. Marlborough, the M.G,H, 41a Gener-
ca Hospital 22, or at least some of them, for I think ther's

a good deal to be said for hauling the Penates around with
you, As soon as I get to a post and settle down (as the sea
gulls say) I shall put up those famous flame colored curtains
“which turned up quite unexpectedly in sone of the stuff I
unpacked in that lovely oiity of RIO, It was a humorous sight
“Ys see then roll out in all ‘their Tupper madness of color
upon the well swept floor oF the IntePnacional,. saw Sf a few
certain spoons had rattled out with them the tilusion would
have been complete! — :

“Which one of the family likes the flavor of sassafrass
~ espectally? They ‘nave boxes made of the ‘wood: here and the s
amell is really very pleasant and not too “strong, When I get
to travelling though there will be a | lot of things to get

so I'd bast wait,

 
 

™:

 

explicit directions on it Bobe
Hackett,

Ae eee

 

wontiey eam. 8 50, t took eavadviiee of ‘the: chance. ne

home with my coat end waistcoat over my arm ana a nice layer

of silk between my flea-bitten chines and the mila breezes
of. limo, Dr, Epitachio Pessoa's native lend,(He's| the nut

% ‘tha hae ‘just been elected president of Brail), As I said
phte is the beginnirig of the cold weather, and so. I celebra-
“tea by gbing out to Phheiros and collecting 801

 

me ‘anopheles |

 

and culex larvae to atudy this next week, Elavo the re
diener at the school of hygeine went with me ‘and took great
pride in talking Poruguese to ne the entire ‘time, while I t

“took equal pride in understanding hin, which.I can do now to

my great amazement by assuming that he is a French Canadian |
trying to-talk Latin when flushed with the fumes of wine,

The words bear about that relation to anything you ever heard
before, Coming home I did feel the need of a more satisfact-
ory medium of exchange, for a very inebriate elderly negress—
of navvy's dimensions reminded me of "My Sunday at Home" and
I knew fear what it was, The motormen on these bondes(trect -
cars) stop the car any time anywhere and for PATO ane

“reminds ne of La Belle France,

Before I forget it let me call attention to the low
salaries and the equally elevated morals of the the Customs
Officials in this great land---if you must send ne anything -
that cam be worn or sold ‘send 1t to 61 Broadway with the
sent in any shipment to ar

 

and not in the mail , Things otherwise get stolen or

    

require ages of quarreling with the authorities before they

can be delivered, = © a
Yesterday Smillie and I went t@ the Darlings for
Sunday dinner, Dr, Darling was one of General Gorgas' chiefs

 

in Panama from 1905 in the yellow fever days to 1913, is in
the R, Commission now and is the head of the school of Hy-
geine which the State of Sao Paolo has begun here, For the
last three years he has been in Java on H# ‘and Malaria and
in addition to these remarkable experiences is @ man who

ee ‘ or oe eS Pas cr eat ¥ bie
auger” GE cag Pigs oo es igh 2, oe ae ee
RR as PO nh Sp ae rr we 4 s * /* ES, oe cig voy
  

‘
‘ oni 9 Wa date : ss ‘ . ‘ % Sari toe ‘ shi uo Cs25 é Yeu:
‘ e ait pi pA ee Reece cy. cig te kia eit hae See SB eS 2 peat “noe aes ah >. aisha Fes aia A RAD ta Ga aad: a Fe Ere ee a iia e 5 f fe bik an) AME ai MASA ie 5 AS ad :
wah Se ea PERS CCA per Ee. ei eee Oe ae ES ME eRe at gy BCU Relea eae 8 te) Me Ee OR et eGR een th? hie A. ye : > eas ae Pay ‘A Bia he oh)
» og kk gamle, Mite el ti i a lami Oak od er ee ae ee lee Vie Pune oieae Pee! Wahome a ss  ieahaa. Halt ae ee ae aur ; ee ene
“Bee ene a. fol ai, tll ee Fe aa, CON Ree es Re i 58 a ke J hig a li 8 GE alls slat A lB le ak i ‘ Oi gaan bare “4 4 ae
ae, ; eects ey b a ee j Biiccca ae f ie ila a i t sulin eer 4 \ z
. x cc: a ae 4 re ot ae Rol oe N eis Pos s * ee ; f : :
CG 7 1 pe find Peer - ee. a :
hs oe ey ria ih " :) ere * - - . Ee oT ee ‘
Oe aa sa Bes ws he ee ee ere, emer = . °
: : ees ie oa i
aa: : ’

 

snything he me to eee ‘first, or course hs is Labebinn

 

ating as an authority on Javan for he is crazy about Serena:
sleeps in a sarong wears it all the tine in his den, used to.
chew betel nut,which he says has ever$hhing that a cocktail
has except the aicehel, and has a collection of Javan things
that I've never seen equalled on any similar subject, His
wife is so amusing! She is a fat cheery outspoken high tenm-
pered Southerner who. is just as well defined a character as
her husband and is the mother of four perfectly delightful
ned children, She is the boss ©
as well as the mother and the morale of the troops is oWwieus-
ly good, I had an awfully good time there and shall go again,

 

and very outspoken and determ:

The Professor is one of the worlds authorities on mosquitoes
and is the livest brain I've seen here yet,
‘You should see the use of the Boston garter here,--
it is but another illustration of the fact that you can do
anything somewhere in this world and get by without comment,
All the sporty children in the cities wear half lenghh socks
with a bright blue or purple garter man's style holding the
sock in blace, An old stage device as I remember it at Keith's
that made all the women scream with raucous pleasure |
We used to think the soil in Colorado was red , Coill-
pared with the deep dye here it was the delicate pink of a
shell, It is really a magnificent combination the deep red
of the soil and the rich subtropical greens of all the plants,
I got Father's letter ef April third on the Soth of

the same month and was glad to find it as prompt as that.

 

The opening of the 2%e letters he mentioned was quite all

as it shohld be and if similar apparently impersonal things

 

turnup dothe same for 1% is no pleasure to have anaaters2
advertisement
chase you all over the world,
There are no changes in the plan to stay here till.
at least June 1st anf there is not a suggestion of any diff-
‘deulty in acclimating myself to this type of continual sun-
shine, Good luck to every Griggs ---its good to remember

what atall blond looks like!

. eit
bh 15 t T tie &