Pi OT ae i COR. Me eye EU Sr Rae cm Be ET Se PRO RY eRe Le SERRE a1 TR Re a Coe ee on LEE er ee ee a 3 eee Bee re ee Pen rr Ea ee
te Rees at Stee 3 Bie ¥ ¥ 7 tig Ce ry ty pay ae Ya ey Es Oe ‘ ar ke Ay,
Hs eee 7 : naa ; : : ‘ : t ak? A Papi Name Pape ee = ae

   

We finale got away from Newport News on Tuesday morming about
nine in the morning of the 2th of March, heavily laden with
coal that we could not get in New York, and by breakfast time
only a low line remained of the Virginia Capes, In Newport News
the earidorss were getting g1.10 an hour, not a good place to
stay in --- especially if you watched them loafing on a job they
could easilyvearn my salary at, (of course “I can tell myself that. _
I would soon tire of such heavy stupid work; but outdoor work at

ee $280.00 per month? )

> se before jast it was a bit rough, t was standing uo in
my berth about two 6, wondering if it wouldnt be wise to close
the portholes of the cabin when a great big warm lovely wave pour
ed down my neck and nestled into bed with mé, Every one of the

cabins on our fhoor got the same, and Schweebroek the steward

was not quite so cheery in his "Morgan, Geniteman"!,

Ce a ae = ie a oe fa Spy?

Today it has been beautifully balmy, and two or three of
the men have come out in their summer clothes-~~tomorrow it will
‘be much more so, We have just had a swift sunset, darkness almost
complete in half an hour, I looked out to the West this evening
just before dinner and saw the young moon, ‘the penumbra very
plain, and a big planet burning unusually plainnearby . I wonder
what topical forests it was hanging over, and how long it will
be before ai see one,

Nver ie I imagined the plue of the trepical seas as strong
He. Sead as full of color as "it ig, 3 18 not the opaque staring
blue of the Italian lakes, it is a sea of waving blue 1ight,. the a

 

same difference there is between dead blue eyes and eee ‘tha
Shine with living light, Looking out over it: you see the: tip-ups
in dazzling contrast to the purplish-blue, and then like tiny .
aeroplanes at a distance, the tiny flying fish hurrying along ove
a gene surface , their little fins buzzing in the sunlight, Silvery
‘white against this extraordinary sea,
An learning Portuguese from a dazzling one and Her less —
blinding husband, and it is a curious sort of hog-Latin-Spanish ,
I make it up as I go along, and that seems to entertain then,

April 4th finds everything | very tropical, Flying fish are

aes

       

 

 
numerous, the color of the.sea is even bluer, and the steady e
eastern winds are -the only things that keep it from being opp-
ressively hot.’ The shantung silk clothes I got were no mistake,
though they looked odd at 8 @olliston Rd,

The Duthh sailors have a neat way of fixing their wash-
ing to the line: they simply pry one of the strands away from
the others and tuck a corner of the shirt into the gap---so
when the wind blows it tightens the rope on the shirt, For this
reason no shirts are found in the Gulf Strean, »

I have read WcGrath's She Princess Blopes, Cooper's The
Brazilians and Their Country, Hergesheimer's Java Head, and White,
Mechanisms of Character Formation, The best is the last--- and
full of more satisfactory novel- material than either of the no-
Sees.

April 5. Today brought us to our fbrst land,

 

The soft green mountains of Dominica,steep and covered with

waving sultry green, Then sheering away from Dominica we came
up to Marlinique, lovely heaps of steep-banked foliage above a
shore fringed with palms, These were my first palms, and they

were better then I expected--- the tops a thicket of waving
tracery and kke beneath an inviting depth of shadowed trunks
where walked red-calicoed figures about, their native business,

A huge cloud hung over us.as we passed, bringing out as fairly
emerald the spots where the sun shone, All rather. easy and slow
going, these figures we were catching glimpses of along the gray

Shining shore,

As we rounded the corner of the island we had full view of

iad Pelee,

 

It was a parched, jagged, towering pile whose southern sides are
banked with streams of the lava that reaches in a motionless gray
river down to the buried houses of St. Pierre, No trees and as yet
few plante of any kind have begun to grow on this side of the
mountain, The visible houses are roofless, quite deserted ---an
unshattered Bailleul,

April 6th, Last night we arrived at Castries, St. Lucia, after
dinner, to take on coal. With an arc-light and much shouting we
sidled up to a low-lying coalpier, where by an arc hung over the
ships side we saw one or two very British looking men in pith
helmets and khaki duck, or in old looking civilian clothes, and

a

a rapidly growing crowd of niggers of the gentiis Nigger --- and
every one of them pretty mighty excited at seeing kis aueat regu-
lar passenger boat since before the war! —
We walked down the gang-plank to talk with some of the sol-
diers, who we found idee stuaiel tase | They took Quinn and me up to
the Maple Leaf Hotel: herd a\sereat bearish looking coon ram a
bar and boasted by signs on bhe wall of his Jicesicen origtn., We
ne baa some beer with the Canadians who were desperate for the |
a - sight of some strange face, for they have been down on this
post with not a thing to do, not for six months as they had been
= promised, but for two and a
half to three years-
with a C.0, who'd
have lost his rank

Ni

nny i Jae An

o
Ans LM } a V =a F

2s]

 

of Lt.Col. and re-
verted to a Lté if
he had Péported the
station as not re-
quiring the men
there. Somewhat like
another situation,
As George Bigelow

says, "Ask me who!”

 

When we got back from the pub we found coaling going on
at a pace and in a way that was all that has been said of

it. Hundreds of negro wenches , bare-legged to the knees
and trussed up in the most ragged and disintegrated clothes
I have ever seen, were standing ar walking with large bas-
kets of coal upon their heads, The general flow of the
crowd was from the dump towards the ship where stood at.
the very edge of the bunker a checker, who as each woman

passed him, basket on head and hand outstretched, gave her

 

@ copper coin marked McGregor Peters-- the value of which
for it is the money of this tom, is about cent, The
baskets as I saw on the scales, weighed between 100 and

120 pounds . A contrast to the coaling at Newport Newsl

 
 

I have never seen such peculiar and admirably erect figures

of women, such swaying loose walking, nor so abundant cause to
believe that you were looking at no more than a female animal--
as sturdy and independent as the male and differing only as a

matter of stricture, They talk a patter of French--"Vihny see"!

was come- here! ---all in a flat loud piercing tone, their pink

 

Longues rolling about kaekr between their gleaming teeth, And
Lord what hard work!

This morning after a sleep troubled by the screams and t
thuds of the coaling process just on the other side of my closed
porthole, I got up feeling rather dopey. But on looking out I
paw the island that had been hidden the night before, the clean-
est greenest looking sweepof hill you ever saw, palms---yes
and the finest wavy sort of them, up against the skyline, I got
up into the town without much delay. At a store I got some post-
cards and as I was looxing about aimlessly for anything else
I might need there was suddenly a great burst of screaming pain
of the actual horsewhbp-- and the loud selfrighteous of the
user of the whip, and the click of the rawhide in action,

And behold a terrified little nigger of perhaps nine and his
equally agonized small sister of twelve getting collectively

horsewhipped by a big fat Bmmx very distingue looking coon

dd i>
with a white zoatee, The screams of the little boywere
drawing a crowd rapidlywhen the old fellow gave up-- only to
be succeeded as a source of terror by the native police, Aka
= , xtall shrivelled negress in the
= most flowingly copious and roar-
ingly pink calico dress I have
ever seen, with a deep red ban-
dana and a large straw hat, s
stood by and gave shrill appro-
val to the punishment, Then t

the crowd as usual disregarded

ca
un J

‘i i il Hh i

wn " os ct ct opinions, sought action else-
ee ms ws

ines

as where and melted away, leaving
Begg)

gif a a mss
+ ae eh
x ‘

her in loud unanimity with the

goatee,

 

Walked to the top of the
hill overlooking the bay, see-
ing my first living bamboo---
whose beauty is not
in the dry stalks we see at home, Such a
smooth strong green columns, and such soft creamy green,
Many chameleons on the way down the road, bright green if
near the bamboo and stone grey against the wall, A warm close
morning by ten o'clock, And go back to the- boat , through
narrow flat streets flanked by low verandahed houses, with
much staring by the population,

Then came midday sleeping in that damned hot cabin of
mine, Read some of the Smart Set this P.M. and happened upon
Mencken's definition of a theatrical star---" a heavenly body"
‘Saw the Southern Cross this evening -- tis not very bright
but improvesm upon further acquaintance, Also identified the
Scorpio and the Centaur, Scorpio very easily.

April 12th. ne day differs not much from the other
Soni days, and so it is that I can Sum Up @ few suns into
wal page. After leaving ST. Lucia we turned eastward and be-
gan the accomplishishment of that part of the journey which

nobody realizes at home-- the big eastward swing to get around
 

 

 

The bay at Castries, St. Lucia,

Cape San Roque, About the only change I have noticed is that
the cabin is a little hotter at night and the wind a little
stronger by day---with a little more rolling by day. I have
not had any Ragas more baby waves coming in to sleep with
me, but have rigged up a jury sail out of a pillow-case and
a cane, which reaches out of the port like a hand and pulls
in a most refreshing current of
ing. Nobody is seasick, only just

Theee days ago after dinner
the boy went round the boat
With a gong, and so as usual
we all assembled in the
smoking room to see what it
was about. Mr. Israels, a
blonde Jew from New Orleans
coffee merchant, who wears his
captain's two bars still on
his soft shirt coblar, took
he Phoer, He explained that

the guesses on the next day's

 

run, " the pool", were to be
run thus; 20 numbers from 275 to 294 had been sold during the
afternoon for $4.00 each , We would now proceed to the auction
of these numbers to the highest bidders, the seeler retaining
half the price realised, and the final bids being for Righ a
and low field, i.e. any number of miles the ship might go Shove. |
or below the given range of numbers, The pot was to be made
from the other half of the mumbexs amounts bidded, plus what
was given for high and low fields. Everybody looked dully in-
telligent and the bidding went on slowly but surely, till about
$400 .0Owas wp If you bid for the number 284, and the boat

ran 284 miles that next day then you'd get half the pot and

numbers 274 and 294 would divide the other half. Of course

ee

| ee Sa e csaeania

 

low and high were the best of all bets, but this Jew was more
familiar with game than the others and nobody bid him higher
than $74.00. Now he had heard earlier in the day that hhe
poat was not. making good time ,------- The boats made 261 miles
Mr. Israels won the entire pot, gave away 950.00 to the stew-
ards----- put despite this gallant and humane action failed to
protect his good name from the muttered oaths of his fellow
passsengers , This was the first time I have ever seen a Jew
in a game of chanced Metter I might say I have not yet
seen a Jew in a Game of Chance,

Last night we had a fancy dress party. It was very
hot and I saw myself best as a baby, in all the heat and tus

mult of the evening, So I got Mrs. Best to give me a night-
sown---lMirs, Van Rensellaer had told me that nowadays the young

anybody, ---so Mrs, Best gave me a garment in which size obvious-
ly struggled with girlish coyness, pretty little fake flowers
over a "throat" that went well around me, Mrs, B, is (a) #x48.
From other sources came bib, a bottle, a pink hair-ribbon from
Mrs. Fitz-Patrick. It was a coy and dangerously thin costume,

but I lived a happy baby's life in xk it until I found it was

beginning to stick to me, so I left and I hada long succession
of warming the tropical tepid water while the rest of the crowd
filled the bar and emptied the bottles, Roxo and Jugo were aress-

ed as a Brazilian coon and his wife, Israel wore his Sam Browne
pelt in additionto his regular uniform, Lutfy was a sailor, Mrs.
van Pel¥ a pink accordion pleated gown which she says is a petti-
coat but which looked pretty chic for all that, Quinn the Can-
adian at my table, started to dress up for my nurse but found
himself too convinving/ and irresistible as a demimonde and nat-
urally left me to take care of myself, Brito was in the Captain's

hat and his own pajamas and looked quite like.a wilted officer

one of these days,

Yesterday came the ceremony of

  
 
  
  
  
  
 
  

. crossing the equator and being in;
>. a
_ “| itiated by Father Neptune into the

'company of all good mariners, This

—

» consists of getting dressed in
sy your bathing suit and parading round

3 the deck and ending at ak large on

“OY yg the after deck where Father Neptune

P Me appears dressed in long flowing robes

es
| ,
_ triton, etc., and after lathering

wits your face, eyes, neck, and head, turns
re a you while you are tightly closing

both eyes to keep out the lather,

4

Le: |
eee over heels into a tub of water

+
Beate

'or rather a tank of water, while the

rest of the passengers yell with —

oe i bea Me cul Dias ea A Reha Lae R Ce SA ahora Dated a hh oc tdi.
‘ pleasure,

This morning I found in my dreams my cigarette case
which I lost in New York, --- I looked at it and then as I would |
do again I yelled MYAy" My loud yell woke me up and L looked
in my empty- hand to find NO CIGRARETTE CASE, Don's cigars have
as is usual with his presents been muuh appreciated,

Three or four mornings ago I came down to the cabin to
find Swee broek the steward reading this diary intently, and when
he saw me his-only-comment was that hi's taweweeraut paper It
he saw this evening's copy he'd have numerous complaints to
make , for the stenogz#apher is sitting in the buff exclusively ,
right under the electric fan and tired from too little to do,

April 14 |
rt is*a suridey afternoon and we've been about three

hours across the equator and in a blaze of the most blinding

 

sunlight ,and the sea an unbelievable sea of blue ‘light, and the
boat just rolling along carefree and swashy, the flying fish
hurrying over the top of the waves,..,.,all things warm cheery

and agreeable, Madame Godoy, a beautifulnBrazilian widow, is
..sitting in here listening to a friend of hers play the piano.

Just a week ago this time we were looking over the

port side of the boat at Mabtinique,.,.a glorious pile of steep
hills, almost enerald ee where the sun filtered through the
big rain clouds of summer, All the way up those steep gorges
and hills were filigre palms waving contentedly in the warm air
and along the shore, barely distinguishable through the field
glasses, white and red clothed figures, Then St, Pierre with
its 20000 dead, more than half still buried beneath the lava,

a sight that seems to have kept the settlers from coming back,

And that night we coaled, All night long the stream

af nigger wenches with the coal baskets on their heads, swaying
and lurching up to the ship' S side, screaming and chattering .
to throw their 100 pounds into the bunker and go back for more,
“To see the palms, the passion flowers, the bamboo, and the
bho bay of Gapies where Spaniard and Englishman fought it

out in bhe ola. days, ---- all this color and ahundance made me

   
 

keen to get on to the end of my journey,

But St. Lucia is as far
\from us as Europe is fron
you almost, and to-day a

b' row lone birds have been
earnest of nearing land,
Pernambuco tomorrow,

(7 \i/ A Baptist minister has
" just left me sorrowing .
Meee He came around with a

book of trench poetry,

and gave me the book to

read, I read half of two and all of one, and then I couldnt go

on, " A proud and fearless woman
Seeing pictures in the fire,
And a torn and mangled body
On the wire",
Quinn took them up a while and in three or four minutes I ask-
ed him (he was in the 8th of Oct, show of the Canadians) "Well
how do you like them?"
"Oh they put me in the blues again", he said uneasily.
"Those are real good pomes, aren't they!" said Dr, odin
ing coming up to us suddenly. ¥g 1
Well I suppose they were but we could not be sure,

It bores me a bit to have so many want thrills withbut any

suffering.

 

April 15. We got into
Pernambuco about il o'-
clock this morning. In
some way I got my direct-
ions confused and as a re-
sult the place stays in

my mind as if it were on
the coast of Africa with

all the country lying to

 

the east instead of the

 
 

 

90 0600000006060000600006 8 8 6 O68 8 6 6 6 6 6.6

1}

 

 

KONINKLIJKE. HOLLANDSCHE LLOYD
S.S. ,, HOLLANDIA” |

 

 

 

AEQUATOR, den ~*~.

 

Wij, NEPTUNUS, God der Oceanen, Zeeén, Baaien,
Golven en aller andere (behalve minerale) Wateren
en van alle leven, hetwelk daarin scharrelt, dwarrelt,
friemelt en wWriemelt, enz., enz., enz.;

ae ae dat
Ct Ola.

voor de eerste maal Ons gebiéd Co en
aan alle eischen en voorschriften heeft voldaan, waarom
hij hiermede van Onzentwege het recht verkrijgt te
allen tijde in Ons gebied te verwijlen. Als blijk Onzer
hooge tevredenheid verleenen wij hem de gunst allen
zeenymphen het hof te mogen maken en doopen Wij

hem met den wes

welken naam Wij hem gelasten waardig te dragen.

Gegeven in den ATLANJISCHEN OCEAAN,
| “oe -U
den V/A a J AL CK, 19 ry

 

 

ae

 

 

 
  

mr ll OUNUS,
GOD DER OCEANEN, ENZ.

   

 

 

 

 

 

Ce Eee

 

[Jjcoc occ CDF DF ODD DDD ODOC ODOT OOOO DDDD ODDO ODE OOOOO [=]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ees

 

 

 

 

 
wt

Tt
Git?

 

west, It was a low lying port with a long jetty and a few skiffs
filled with bahan2s ‘and oranges, an old Dutch light house and
@ group of clean looking white houses that looked as 0, Henry
says"like a hard-boiled egg on a piece &P Yettadelt! They have

an amusing scheme of unloading their péople from ‘the boat there:

a large basket, a cross between a clothes basket and a sentry

box was. stood on its end and a few people crowded into it throug

the opened side, It was suddenly swept into the air by the

‘erane and the ‘people dandled in the air for a moment only to be

suddenly dropped on to the bobbing deck of the tender, The con-
tents were anything but happy, especially when the tender rose

suddenly and struck the descending basket on the bottom,

Mrs. Croher is gas usual roaring into ee ee in an
engaging way and has bought a “parrot fron an old Indian, We
have begun to get other impressions than just sight ---we had
mangoes for lunch, and they"S ean wate odd, |

As we left the harbor a rainstorm began, the first they

have had since November, and .the distant water got quite purple

and the nearer water got a bright plue like an Italian lake,

We passed a fisherman sitting on the four poles lashed together

and handling the tiny sail of his raft, very much alone in the
sea, but going as far as 35 miles outside of the sight of land

because he has unvarying trades to blow him back,

 

April 16 I think it was tonight we came into Bahia, You

   

cant do anything in the trop: Bey dusk. it doesnt last long
enough, After dinner we went to the city in an automobile wi ts

Mrs, Pyles, Drand Mrs Titus, Brito and Bennett, climbing up the

@ilaTt on which the city liesand gave it the onceover from an

automobile, going out to the _pensao which, is kept by. Guynemer' Ss.
mother, where we met a friend of Bennetts, whose career is in-

teresting,

His name is “Mosely, &@ small swarthy young mglishaan, with
a shifty oyP and a handbhake like. crumbling tissue-paperé In

the summer of 4014 he and a friend were at Monte carlo, His. Jade

friend one night when they were in the gambling-room said, "Here 24

put this twenty francs on bine red " He did and won 140 frencs

  

 
---and some more that night . Since when he has been gan-
bling with any money he can get his hands on, He tried to
euliat. but was rejected on his stature. so hearing the
reputation of Rio as a center for gambling, and ashamed to
show his face at home he came to Rio.In theee months he

had lost nearly 150,000 dollars of his own and his family's
money, If a boat came in on Friday night he would hardly
sleep for the excitement of getting the draft from home ,

If it didnt come in time to get to the bank on Sat, he
would take a launch across the bay and get a friend to

cash it as a special favor---- to use up that night till

he was where he was before, He got almost to starvation,
went to Bahia to get away from his pals of Rio, got a@ job
in a commercial house and had a safe made out of heavy steel
with a slot in it through which he begged his employer to
put a third of his savings--against himselfg One night the
lomgihg got the upper hand and he got a cold chisel, opened
the box and lost the salary at roulette, When we saw him
Bennett said "We&l old man how goes it?" Mosely put his
hand in his pocket nd pulled out a handful of chips and

grinned a queer sort of leer,

The air was soft and l@aded with smells I have

never known before, the palms along the streets are all

they say of them, the houses a stmange ornate, formal but
I suspect very cool sort, a bit like the modern French houses
in Lille or along the Boulevarde de Lille in Roubaix, The _
stores were all open in Bahia, simply without any front wall,
and the proprietor stands round loafing quite like the orient,
The music goes on the tine oF Dud da-dada da Dud da-dada da,
The Pavoni te place of light and life is a combination cigar
and rum shop with tables for other forms of food,
Since Pernambuco I have shared my cabin with Antonio
Caeta Ribeiro, em firma A.C, Ribeiro, Caixas 245 RECIFE,
We grin inanely at each other but I can see that I study

the Portuguese pretty soon now, Antonio is much intrigued by
rp.

my stropping my razor in the morning; he doesnt do it to his

and the noise he makes shaving makes me cringe with the pain
it must give hin, Though he may be beyond suffering from the |
desperate fumes of the perfume he uses , Thank God he doesnt
mind fresh air,

‘An election here was lost here recently because the

trumpcard was saved till the very last and then played with

a crash, At nine o'clock of the night before the elections
the orators sallied forth and mounting the stumps said" This
man they ask you to vote for is nof worthy of your vote and
we have just discovered a fact that proves it. Why he is so

weak and soft a character that he doesnt even keep a mistress"

April 17 Now that I have become used to the palms, mangoes, .

zapotos, and the bamboos, and the parrot we bought at Pernan-
buco, my wonderment has been aroused more by the natives then
by flora or fauna, Some of the haute monde do Brasil got on the
poat at Bahia, They seem to me like slightly Swarthy Frenchmen
very well educated and speaking at least the three languages
and often five, very amusing company in some cases, and much
more civilised in the French meaning off the term than we of |
North America, They are keen about the U.S. amd are much more
favorably disposed to us than the Argentines, at least so every
one sly 82" ths! coaneny bred folk are in the business of absorb-
ing the black blood which is like taking an inkspotk out of
flannel breeches by adding more water and rubbing the affair
into a, ti cet aoe than ever, The coons have none of our
jolly clattering spirit----nor have their whites much joie

de vivre either, The naval men we had down here a& were an
excellent sort and made no end of a killing with apparently

everyoneg
I gather from the numerous commercial men on board that

the trade conditioms here will revert to the European advant
age very largely, now that deliveries can be made from the o
other side, but th.t Brazil looks with great favor on the U,

5. partly to counter-act the extreme favor with which the
Argentines regard Europe, Everyone says that we are lend-
ing to Europe at five percent and they are come down here
with it and using the friendships of before the war are
able to push the Americas out, and getting 8 to 25% on
the money they pay us back with “ees gusto, And a smile
for ois innocent good-will, Hell, what's the difference!
I think we have a long road to go before we are good foreign
traderas ani besides we dont need the money SO we havent
even the first principles of ‘an excuse to do anybody else
out of their old means of Liv1inood .
We have three Japs, six Norvegians, one French,

two Venezuelans, a Mexican, and the balance in ‘Aecemtines
Brazilians and "100% Americans", Our table is nothing but
men and no two born in the same country=--but that doesnt
keep it from being the sort of a place that the hotel Fal-
orie was. There is an Argentine whose only word in English
is VERY CATCHY . If you wear a new necktie or carve your
meat quickly or tell a rough story that pleases, you are
rewarded with an approving nod and a "vairee Ketshee" fpom
Signor De Miguel, Mr. De Mike as Quinn nate him, Brito
one of the Brazilians is funny as the deuce for the gest-
ures he tuged—té I never saw a man SO dependent on the hands
feet legs and pack to express what he wants as this"SR Nas-
cimento". "@nd she iss sairl!B

I saw Clarine in New york pefore I sailed, and her
husband too, I think he would be as need aS any in the Bronx
to irk Mrs Hanks but Clarine told me things were much easier
in that line than before. and Mrs Hanks is anxious to patch .
it up. Clarine looked very well and made the naive remark
that when you had a baby you didnt seem to get your brains
back ! She said you gob sors of cow-like and contented and
that Hetty had noticed the same thing too, ‘The only thing I
could think mk it must be like is being taken into the Fly

Alec and 30 I guess You and I are barred from that sensation!
 

April 19 3

At two in the morning I woke up and saw the huge half-shad-
owed mountain of Cabo Frio rising out of the sea quite near
us, the now scant moon giving no more light than to show
Gray-green rocks with blue mist floating over them, and the
strange shape of the outline against an already misty star-
light, Dawn was not for some time but I soon got up, And as
soon aS I got up on deck the northern part of the Sky began
to show an increasingly Strange and fairy book sort of hor-
izon, jagged mountains of blue-black running along the

coast, We were running before the
dawn, The sky behind us more and
more golden, the mountains more

and more a china blue, the sea

 

greener, The lonliness of being
on deck was nothing, I didnt
notice it till a gust from the
land itself brought a lot of e
earthy odors that made me want
Company to enjoy them with, Very
soon we could see &@ huge beak of
Gray granite, smooth and cold,
nosing right up out of the sea
at the mouth of the harbor, lowked
morenlike Sugar Loaf--Pao dAssucar -- and so I knew Rio,

Now you will never read any exaggeration of Rio Harbor.

on

t is a little bit like what would happen if Keene Valley were

filled with clean water to the level of the top of Sunset Hill

of

hand

AY

ra

i the side

C

{

5 Of the hills covered with palms etc., and the
entrance f rom the Ausable lakes, no, from the Chapel Pond
Side, The city would lie to the south and soutwest and west
of the bay, a rambling enormous affair of Pink, lilac, blue,
buff or white plaster fingering up into but thoroughly afraid
as | : over

of conquering the tree-covered mountains that hover the bay
There are identically the same big rainstain slides of gran-

ite as in the Adirondacks, but everything on a vast scale,

In the morning sun the Brazilian flag looked very much
like a young tree, so very green and so very yellow.
As we were waiting for the Customs and Port officials
Mme, Godoy's family came on board and made a good deal
of a scene, Her husband's family really, people she had
hever seen before---~which must be very hardg

Met Hackett at the dock and also Dr, Thomas Al-
ves, a Government official in the Public Health Service
who has been loaned to the Commission . The name Rock-~
efeller is somewhat of a sesame here --- [I went through
the customs with no examination. Then getting into the

bCommission's Ford we road up to the Hotel International
one of the finest sites I have ever seen,

Rio itself is rather exceptional, it has the
formality and cleanliness of Paris, the hurry ana lack
of tradition of the U.S., all the warm open house sub-
trpical things I had never seen before, and something
additional which needs watching before it appears in
the literature, But there's no more question about
it's beauty than that of Nancy Graves--=+-it Simply is

the lovliest I have ever seen or & imagined

 Quintada Béa Vista —~—~=SRio. de Janeiro

h

TT ie SETTLES

 
 

 

 

 

At the International I. met, Dr, Austin, a Philadelphia man who
knew Hal Thomas and Arthur Lyon at the R. Inst, Also Dr. Pearce
of Pennsylvania, who is going round on an inspection tour of all
the South American countries for the Foundation, He is about as
approachable as a stone wall round a cemetery, but proves rather
a cheerful duck at the end of a long attack and no fool at the
main. chance, He used to ig to Marion in the dark ages, and so
knew the Sweetsers, He told me a story typical of the Brazilian
method of expression,--- a grammar gave the local definition of
language as "WHAT IS LANGUAGE?" “Language is divided into three
forms: iWritten 2 Spoken 3 Gesticulated,

Met also br Hydrick wno did the
H¥ in the Camayan Islands, trfiidad
and tobago, A very nice Southerner
a man with brains enough to go to

England as a Rhodes scholar and not

 

waste his time studying

Se a ¢
Sih

woh al or er ‘
set Ne

* Bie

stead of Englis shnenamne their. ideas,

   

= over to Nicktheroy, across
the harbor on the eastern side and
there at the Hacketts we had a del-

Z v

icious warm swim and a pleasant mi

   
dinner---waffles off an electris iron at the table and
some beans much like howe . I dont suppose there are
many sunsets in the world more beautiful than the ones
you see from Nicktheroy,

Coming back with Hydrick I saw an exampite of
what others have noticed here,--the solemn determined
way the Brazilians have a good time, They try not with
the jerky, selfconscious mortified abandon of some
sections of the Nordic race, but with amelancholy, dis-
tant look that the experts say hides a tremendous whirl-
wind of happiness, At any rate he simply stares with”
joy at an American who really is noisy and happy and
original in his fun, Hackett says that an American can
do anything dow here and the Braziiians say to them-
selves “He is an American!" or"The Americans are apract-
feal people, he must have a reason", This polite and
cautious of three or four boys from the battleship
Ov6(#6" PUEBLO who solemnly imitated a barnyard scene
in the street in Nicktheroy was no doubt made by all

intelligent Braziliane|

 

 
4

April goth. Dr, Pierce gave a luncheon today to the members of
the Commission and their wives, where I met Dr, Darling and also
Dr, Crowell and his wife, Darling is a tall,long-haired, open
eyed man of ideas; he'd be at the head of a now religion if he
were not at the head of the ranks in this new phase of medicine,
He 1s aperson who loves vistas, medical and anthropological es-
pecially- and the way he talks of the Nordic race , the Mediterr-
aneans etc,, is most fascinating, because he knows a great deal
about it, Smillie thinks he knows more about mosguitoes than all
but two or three other men alive and I don't doubt it. The Cro-
wells knew Don in the Philippines and have been mbst kind to me,
He is at the Oswaldo Cruz Institute as the Pathologist, She seems
rather the worse for her time in fhe Islands, and looks very tira ,

Dr, Chagas of the Institute was there also and I got along with

him fairly well in French --- it is going to be my salvation

until I get some Portuguese, Chagas is going to the U.S. and if
you get a chance to hear him, do so,

After dinner I went up on the hill and watched the sunset
over the bay, It is the most beautiful place I have ever seen,
Rio de Janeiro,

In the evening sat and talked with Pierce and Austin. The.
night was wonderful and you should see and. smell the night here!
The tobacco is GOOD,

From what Hackett says I shall go to Sao Paulo with Smillie
and get familiar with various mosquitoes and worms and the sim-
pler phases of the Portuguese tongue for a month or so, and then
return to Rio with a chance to really get to work, I Suspect that
I will be sent to the state of Santa Catherina to do a Hx survey
and then perhaps to keep on there in charge of a few posts, The
work here in Brazil is opening up with a most gratifying and tan-
talizing rapidity, Tor example there are eleven enormous counties
that have requested suMtare lately but we can't help them because
we are so short of trained men, That is a months crop of requests
---and look at the size of Brazil! I see where I get what I came

for -- experience in health administration, ©

 
April 2ist, After lunch with Hydrick and Alves at a delight-
queer restaurant down town we went over to Nicktheroy and
had a row over to the outdide beach with an Englishmen
by the name of Waugh, who has just married Dr, Hacketts secret-
ary and is living at the H's house, ‘Twas pleasant seeing an
Englishman again,

At 8:30 in the evening we took the train for Campos,
a Sugar town in the state of Rio, and after a
very hot and close ride arrived the next morn-
ing at 7, The R.R, was called the Leopoldina
an English affair and it burns wood ---nor is
it more prosperous inappearance than it need be,
WS went to the post in town where the guardas bring in the
bring in the work for the microscopists, and then we went
then we went out to the field, where in the
heart of the sugar cane country a large blue
see house gives quarters to the men who
ride about from village to hamlet, giving treatment-and coli
treatment and collecting specimens, The
sign outside on two high posts driven into a five foot anthill
read COMMICAO ROCKEFELLER. The guardas are all rather super-

ior men and ride well these funny little single-footing horses,

 
DW
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| 26
April 22 i. & ”
“Hackett and Smillie and I went out to a suburb well out
of town early this morning to see a place where there has been
a great deal of malaria among the laborers in a large brick-
yard, Giine Cue pool to pool scooping up shallow pans of water
and spooning out the larvae to take home and hatch out, thus we
spent a very hot four hours, The sea wter has eaened in to a con-
Siderable extent in the pits from which the clay has been taken
and forms pools of graduated salt content. We took specimens to

*

be tested for salt %. Brick yards are entirely uncontrolled and
unadvised in the matter of the drainage of their pits here; so
far as I know,

As we went along the road I remarked to Hackett about the
way the pullock-carts were droning and squeaking--you could hear
them quite a long way off before you came upon them. He said e
that the oxen have to be whipped all the time unless they can
have that squeak to cheer them on the way, so the driver s put
charcoal in the axle, and the senile is enough to convince any
living creature that something goes on, The towns make them tone
it down with soap os nk the city limite. .

We got to the hotel to a very formal dinner given by the
Crowells to the DR Pearce, with Mr, Morgan the U.S. Ambassador,
as one of the chief guests, It took an interminable time. I had
a simple creature to converse with---most of the time it was
serving, for she never returned anything but a few easy nal
underhand, and I got well cleared out of leads bythe end of the -
evening. Mr. Morgan gives the impression of a porcine dilletante,
the sort that wears a check suit, black pearls,and with the
handkerchief in the sleeve, and a hewiahake like a warm oyster
or a surgeons rubber glove filled with warm water, He is said
to be shrewd , and commanding of respect in the later stages of
acqu aintance, and is a great favorite with the Brazilians,

I think it would be interesting to know what happens to

our natural antipathy when we smother mt for utilities sake,

April 25
Smillie ieft this morning for Rezende, but it didnt
{

Seem wise for me to speed up tp quite that extent, so I stayed
at the hogel and didnt get up till one, Pearce and Austin led
an equally lazy life |]
Brazilhan meals are mot on our schedule at all, In
the early morning they nothing but strong coffee and perhaps
a little bread, At 10;50 or 11:00 they have almoco, a com-

a ee bined breakfast and lunch,

 

 

 

then comes jantar at 5:00

and thereafter nothing at all.
They are very fond of meats and
greasy things, and beans are
the only vegetable as common

as our potato, Ther is a great
plenty of fruit but they do

not eat it much, and have quite
a lot of rules about the eating
of itn milk and oranges NO!
Fruit with breakfast ? NO! etc,

Limes are common and Pearce

S SOE HT oe

am § x, :
a ER ey
4 yy ak ae *
OA
7 ||

says that everything we take
lemon on is better still with
lime, abacate especially, and ‘in tea, Oranges can be bought
for 1$000 or about 25¢ a hundred, and of course bahanas

are cheap too, Mamaos are melon-like things (our name

for them is paw-paw) which have the flavor of Easter lil-
ies and are good, My stomach is meeting a total stranger
about twice a day now , ,

Rio is the most beautiful city now, especially
at night and from Nicktheroy, They dont care what they
spend in street lights, millions of them in long twinkling
lines along the sea or sparkling in festoons and chainsn
on the mountains. The plan is not to have a certain amount
of light for a certain anoint of money , put to have it look
well; and it certainly succeeds,

April 26th sc
Up before dawn to catch the train for Rézende
27
The ride to the ststion in the auto was very quiet and beautiful

the chauffeur seemed to have pleasure in going that way,
©

 

This is quite unlike the normal Brazilian chauffeur, who has

& very niggery idea of driving and is hair-raising to a degree

fe

fou!

2
he

the way he cuts behind street cars etc,, taking chances
that would make Barney Oldfield turn in his grave, It is funny
to see four policemanto a block, standing inthe center of the

Sidewalk to keep the people walking only on the right Side,

Prey “gt pater
snails spall at ii

Panorama visto do Internacional Rio de Janeiro

Me eos 8,

“ f a
Sg <5 eo re Gee
See Tae, WORM Ca ia eel

ins

“ t
et ed
‘ 5 a
Att ~ bared Ms oie |

 
while automobiles are threatening death out in the streey,
Writing this on the train finds me climbing up

and up these bananaz and palm-covered mountains in an

ordinary coach, A good roadbed and in good time, The

sun 1s still very hot but the air is more refreshing t

han in Rio,

Imet Smillie in Rezende safely and we went on to
p20 Paulo, a long but interesting ride into country of
good eleveationand perhaps more civilized than around RIO,
Sunday 27th. |

Things here in §.P. are extremely interesting,
just as they were in Rio, The country, rich beyond

computayZion, boombng, graft-sustaining, fazendas yield-
ing 20 to 30% a year, scant native culture, careless,
raw, active eager,---- this country is our own country
of 1830 to 1850 all over again. States Rights are far

stronger than Federal power,

 

eee et et EE Sn a

Vista Geral de uma Fazenda de Café — E. de S40 Paulo.

 

They are keen for the Rockefeller Commissao---it
is in demand far beyond its ability. What with my trav-
elling expenses paid, with new places opening up every-
where, 4 UREA amount of money to work with and every
kind of country in the world to be visited and work to
be done in many of them, I feel satisfied I shall get

valuable administrative experience plus an extraorginarily
“inkereanine life along other paths,

7 ; 28°
Most of the food is new, the cenguage is new but Got too
hard , there is going to be enough interesting medicine to
keep @ man busy on that alone, and there is enough contact
with everybody----from the Naval Attachees wife round the
circle meeting the Indian sqaw at the place where the

ladies drink, gamble and keep cool,

When we were. out in Campos scooping ap the larvae, Smiiltie

said "If only my elinteal professors could pm me now!" But

 

after considering it we decided that they pay 4100 a week for

the chance each summer and refer to it as fishing, whereas we
get get paid for doing it ---and, catching no fish either we

score morally by not calling gw it"fishing",
I expect to call it off here after about a month or two
of vey + Re hookworm, malaria and Portuguese, And in June or

July I! ll go to Santa Catherina to make a survey there ~=-

nice cool country, I'm told,
This town of sao Paulo is a delightfully cool wellkept

Californian town in ahigh rolling section of hills, and in
all the obvious ways a good place to live an, it ae not aas
beautiful as Rio but nothing could be very well, though it is
more cool and comfortable,

“-gmillie bought a parroqueet yesterday in Rezende and we
solemnly carried the little green devil through two lines of
swell Brazilian soldiers in the station last night, who were
standing at attention, awaiting a pair of French Commissioners
who came down with us on the train, After this impressive
reception to the bird, and an extremely affectionate and excite.
ed greeting by young John Smillie, aged 4, iis parroauale met
tragic end by being under the advancing toe of draudnotner
Anderson---- and now the only thing that stands Prate is that
there are lots more paroqueets in Brazil and we were going to
get another anyway. Good luck tonyou all and dont worry that
these pages aren't numbered---much of Homer, we are told was
carried in the heads of those who liked his stuff---and I shall

do better when I settle down,
 

 

 

II — Mussurana (Oxyrhopus cloelia) matando uma jararaca (Lachesis lanceo-
latus) serpente venenosa

 

 

eis
 

of a single long holiday in the. summer, As r said well oboe
ved, excepting the men who make a tidy. penny each holiday
by hiding in the office buildings and arresting the people
who try to work against the law---the detective ae given
half the fine! |

The last three days Smillie and I have been getting up
at six and hurrying over to the Santa Casa ade Misericordia
a huge hospital run by the Catholic Sisters, to run through
some clinical tests on the use of beta-naphthol as a remedy
for hookworm, The patiemts are all uneducated Brazilians,
in one of the eye wards, most of them having trachoma, and
all of them well infected with Hw (hookworm), It is simply
a perfect little laboratory we work in, though the gift of
as much as five milreis (41,) would be so frightfully liber
al an act that you'd be put in the papers for it instanter,
Where the money comes from to run the whole big place is
problematical---exceptathat the Catholic church is behind it,
Were it nog for the awful. numbers: of flies and the crowding
of patients one on a high bed and one on the floor beneath
him, the hospital would be quite presentable, The gardens
around which the buildings lie cloistered are of course 1
lovely, There are royal palms, fir trees that come dow only
to 15 feet from the ground with a little hedge of young bam~
boo in pots to make a cool little retreat under the fir tree
complete, And a dull droning noise fills the air, pouring —
out of the imposing, chapel that etends inthe center of the

 

garden, --- the prayers of the sick for relief from their
ilis, When one of our patients, Jose Boli, a pasty faced
little defective with trachoma and an unqunchable grin, pray-
ed this week it worked wonders and Jose is host no longer
of 768 hungfy H* worms and is fast convincing me that even
if you dont prevemt H* recurring in Brazil you can do an

enormous lot of benefit to some pretty miserably 111 men
moe o a

: ‘ ME shee ; ae : Ie es :

CU Gate OE an Ree ee : egos 4 fa 50%
11 ie sca 1 éna
ee. tat reg Tie

een eee fas 5 bigs Mage
oe keep Hi ning

, which under ‘the elpcumstances io an

 

that x a1 am going ‘to y Wis taeriea,
rtd & ing ‘th 4 n g ~-ny
1¢ wher 1 my eyes open o

ane ae is
ae T t : }
a Mey te r ‘its . “al . we j

 

 

 

i) on “the graceful paim waving ‘by ay Puan
.. ~ oa winter suit that I brought ‘down hére has not
“peen too hot yet, and it bids fair to grow cooler eti.l,
penn ah overcoat will never be a necessity, .

“"ghe food here ‘at the Instituto Paulista is simply

" “delicious especially the medt, f an‘getting Mo’ that 'T can

“get my gastric claims attended to by the waiter pretty well
but he is shocked more than he ean help showing by the small
meais I take and the ever phesent "Chega" with which I waive

“aside” three courses ‘of meat or tree kinds of jelly. The coffee

here is simply delicious and the Brazilians take it the way
the’ English take tea, Theres @ big differencé in their sugar

hoe though; it is fine and flakey and dissolves almost immediate-

rae in any size cup, ‘Of course the fruit ‘de ‘good especially
some of these things ‘I have never tasted before,

a ‘ art a ee
ee & Me ws

Up on ‘my “walls: ‘here’ already hang the pictures that

“adorned the walls at 355. Marlborough, the M.G,H, 41a Gener-
ca Hospital 22, or at least some of them, for I think ther's

a good deal to be said for hauling the Penates around with
you, As soon as I get to a post and settle down (as the sea
gulls say) I shall put up those famous flame colored curtains
“which turned up quite unexpectedly in sone of the stuff I
unpacked in that lovely oiity of RIO, It was a humorous sight
“Ys see then roll out in all ‘their Tupper madness of color
upon the well swept floor oF the IntePnacional,. saw Sf a few
certain spoons had rattled out with them the tilusion would
have been complete! — :

“Which one of the family likes the flavor of sassafrass
~ espectally? They ‘nave boxes made of the ‘wood: here and the s
amell is really very pleasant and not too “strong, When I get
to travelling though there will be a | lot of things to get

so I'd bast wait,

 
 

™:

 

explicit directions on it Bobe
Hackett,

Ae eee

 

wontiey eam. 8 50, t took eavadviiee of ‘the: chance. ne

home with my coat end waistcoat over my arm ana a nice layer

of silk between my flea-bitten chines and the mila breezes
of. limo, Dr, Epitachio Pessoa's native lend,(He's| the nut

% ‘tha hae ‘just been elected president of Brail), As I said
phte is the beginnirig of the cold weather, and so. I celebra-
“tea by gbing out to Phheiros and collecting 801

 

me ‘anopheles |

 

and culex larvae to atudy this next week, Elavo the re
diener at the school of hygeine went with me ‘and took great
pride in talking Poruguese to ne the entire ‘time, while I t

“took equal pride in understanding hin, which.I can do now to

my great amazement by assuming that he is a French Canadian |
trying to-talk Latin when flushed with the fumes of wine,

The words bear about that relation to anything you ever heard
before, Coming home I did feel the need of a more satisfact-
ory medium of exchange, for a very inebriate elderly negress—
of navvy's dimensions reminded me of "My Sunday at Home" and
I knew fear what it was, The motormen on these bondes(trect -
cars) stop the car any time anywhere and for PATO ane

“reminds ne of La Belle France,

Before I forget it let me call attention to the low
salaries and the equally elevated morals of the the Customs
Officials in this great land---if you must send ne anything -
that cam be worn or sold ‘send 1t to 61 Broadway with the
sent in any shipment to ar

 

and not in the mail , Things otherwise get stolen or

    

require ages of quarreling with the authorities before they

can be delivered, = © a
Yesterday Smillie and I went t@ the Darlings for
Sunday dinner, Dr, Darling was one of General Gorgas' chiefs

 

in Panama from 1905 in the yellow fever days to 1913, is in
the R, Commission now and is the head of the school of Hy-
geine which the State of Sao Paolo has begun here, For the
last three years he has been in Java on H# ‘and Malaria and
in addition to these remarkable experiences is @ man who

ee ‘ or oe eS Pas cr eat ¥ bie
auger” GE cag Pigs oo es igh 2, oe ae ee
RR as PO nh Sp ae rr we 4 s * /* ES, oe cig voy
  

‘
‘ oni 9 Wa date : ss ‘ . ‘ % Sari toe ‘ shi uo Cs25 é Yeu:
‘ e ait pi pA ee Reece cy. cig te kia eit hae See SB eS 2 peat “noe aes ah >. aisha Fes aia A RAD ta Ga aad: a Fe Ere ee a iia e 5 f fe bik an) AME ai MASA ie 5 AS ad :
wah Se ea PERS CCA per Ee. ei eee Oe ae ES ME eRe at gy BCU Relea eae 8 te) Me Ee OR et eGR een th? hie A. ye : > eas ae Pay ‘A Bia he oh)
» og kk gamle, Mite el ti i a lami Oak od er ee ae ee lee Vie Pune oieae Pee! Wahome a ss  ieahaa. Halt ae ee ae aur ; ee ene
“Bee ene a. fol ai, tll ee Fe aa, CON Ree es Re i 58 a ke J hig a li 8 GE alls slat A lB le ak i ‘ Oi gaan bare “4 4 ae
ae, ; eects ey b a ee j Biiccca ae f ie ila a i t sulin eer 4 \ z
. x cc: a ae 4 re ot ae Rol oe N eis Pos s * ee ; f : :
CG 7 1 pe find Peer - ee. a :
hs oe ey ria ih " :) ere * - - . Ee oT ee ‘
Oe aa sa Bes ws he ee ee ere, emer = . °
: : ees ie oa i
aa: : ’

 

snything he me to eee ‘first, or course hs is Labebinn

 

ating as an authority on Javan for he is crazy about Serena:
sleeps in a sarong wears it all the tine in his den, used to.
chew betel nut,which he says has ever$hhing that a cocktail
has except the aicehel, and has a collection of Javan things
that I've never seen equalled on any similar subject, His
wife is so amusing! She is a fat cheery outspoken high tenm-
pered Southerner who. is just as well defined a character as
her husband and is the mother of four perfectly delightful
ned children, She is the boss ©
as well as the mother and the morale of the troops is oWwieus-
ly good, I had an awfully good time there and shall go again,

 

and very outspoken and determ:

The Professor is one of the worlds authorities on mosquitoes
and is the livest brain I've seen here yet,
‘You should see the use of the Boston garter here,--
it is but another illustration of the fact that you can do
anything somewhere in this world and get by without comment,
All the sporty children in the cities wear half lenghh socks
with a bright blue or purple garter man's style holding the
sock in blace, An old stage device as I remember it at Keith's
that made all the women scream with raucous pleasure |
We used to think the soil in Colorado was red , Coill-
pared with the deep dye here it was the delicate pink of a
shell, It is really a magnificent combination the deep red
of the soil and the rich subtropical greens of all the plants,
I got Father's letter ef April third on the Soth of

the same month and was glad to find it as prompt as that.

 

The opening of the 2%e letters he mentioned was quite all

as it shohld be and if similar apparently impersonal things

 

turnup dothe same for 1% is no pleasure to have anaaters2
advertisement
chase you all over the world,
There are no changes in the plan to stay here till.
at least June 1st anf there is not a suggestion of any diff-
‘deulty in acclimating myself to this type of continual sun-
shine, Good luck to every Griggs ---its good to remember

what atall blond looks like!

. eit
bh 15 t T tie &
ges
Fan,

 

 

 

III — A Mussurana (Oxyrhopus cloelia) engolindo sua victima
 

 

 

 

 
Si

May ws Domingo
_ Please let me know if tue seisbele thus offerings. on
the family hearth are too much imfluenced by the commercial
scool (dropping my aitches a bit ) of thought, because I don't
want to be so formal and typewritten to the boosum of the fam-

LLy se | | | ?
During the past week I have been JOHN W. SARGENT to a

most interesting group of mosquitoes and though you may say
that the portrait of that elderly female culex is an outrage-
ous carieature and notb at all flattering ---- you must admit
that the one of those two old anophelines eating together is -
wonderfully spirited,-- an amazing bit. I have also been
Margeret E, Sanger to those mosquitoes (business of birth
controlé among the larvae ) and have been Katherine (in the Be-
mis sense of the word)too: so that theres little I dont know
about them, Though I may sound bored by so much concentration
as a matter of fact it is a great relief to be at consecutive
well-ordered work again and the hours in the Laboratorio do
Hygiene e Saude Publica are Satisfactory. |

There are sone amusing things to be seen here inthe way
of customs and points of view. Its good technique if you and
your wife belong to the liesure class, to lock her in when you |
go down town in the afternoon, Quite the thing for her to look,
out of. the front window though and her counter move is to make.
anice little cushion that fits the window and there she lolls
all the P.M, shall we say slightly bored in expression, It is .
& town where all the fazienderos or big plantation owners,
come to live from"the coffee" when they have become so absurd-
ly rich that they have to have company to live it down. So they
blow in, or rather out a good deal in perfume, in automoveis
(guess at it), and as their women are following the.,U,S.: movies
as a standard of dress and behaviour the Society is rather dress

suity and the women run to fluff and picture hats: simple --

like an orchid, On the street cars the conductor always blows

a tin whistle as a warning that he soon will ring the bell, and

en route the motorman anxiously looks up and down the cross
streets for possible lean- passengers or probable fat-ones;at al-
most any distance,

The people are odd in one way that I have mentioned before,
‘ae are So subdued and sober, They are the sort of people it is
impossible td take off, because they have no tangible identity
to begin with and they'd take it with seriousness and fortitude

or with that wonderful explanation they give for many North An-
erican incomprehensible acts "the North Americans are a practi-
cal people --there is a reason for that somewhere", But I not-
ice that Hackett and Smillie are both much quieter than the

men at home and they seem to have caught the Bparitisaé Spirit,

The negro blood has failed to cheer up the people in any percept-
ible way, though its the same negro in most other ways, In fact
Smillie tells me that up in the intertior you can hear them tell-
ing most of the Uncle Remus stortes -- handed down from the ori-
ginal African source,. Darling believes that they must have killed
of a very large number of the active spirited stock among the
Portuguese during the Inquisition , and to that lethal selection
you can undoubtedlya add the cumulative effect of the rule of
celibacy for hundreds of years in the recruited priesthood, and
the factthat of the adventurers who survived their adventures and
settled here in the early days usually diluted their abilities
in the colored blood around them, The effect may not cbhme from
these causes byt it is just what the causes would give, I can
assure Yow.’ 7

I am getting very fond of the Brazilian oxen the more
I see of their touchingly simple attitude toward their work: if
they dont hear the wheels squeaking they stop then there and for
good . So the drivers --whose nib thee are usually ministers wives
and have had practise @ with similar situations in the parish--
put charcoal in the axles, and you should hear country life in |
Brazil! Its assream !

Good luck to you and my love to the missus

oe

Alan.
On

A warm blue-fogged autumn day with the night's cold mist
scarcely rolled back off the mountains arounds uS----- and you write
May on the letter if you are down here for the winter! I havent been
able to feel cold yet and have been here in two or three hot waves
put these people are selling charcoal braziers and the ladies have
begun wearing their furs when they go out walking undid? the bananas
and palm trees. It is very attractively cool here and no mistake

about that. ,
Your letters have been more welcome than you'd suspect

without Ti ta eeenes of Bordeaux and the queer wave of isolation
that comes over you before you can get a foothold in a new place,
Mankind handles the problem of Isolation in various ways, Aneas as I
remember it made it guite objective by believing two of the gods

were mixed up in his leaving home, and when things went badly he re-
ferred to wrathful Juno interms anywhere from petulance to blasphemy
and when things went better he bhanked his stars for what few pro-
tagonbsts he did have in heaven. English colonials settle it by taking
out a great quantity of home with themand never thinking of returning
for good; thus ending by having more lovable living in Kuala Lumpur

or Capefown than they could possibly secure at"home .. Oyr friends

the Christiams who are morally so intent on the dismal business of
self-isolation begin about in the late after-noon to feel how far

away they are from everything and what a cool and uhrelenting world

of toil and struggle they are in , It is in this evensong and veapers
etc, that they reassare themselves that there is some help for mams
lonely lot, his throes of melancholy, his nakedness to the winds of
adversity, and that (excepting in epic circumstances like 1914¢ 1918)
most suffering and dying is done without solace of companionship--

and alone, So they reassure themselves with calling eachothers’ attent-
ion to the “ Rock of Ages Cleft for me" (ME!!!)

or to the toot that Jesis gives "the weary calm and soft repose"

and with the burden of the struggle if not lightened at least re-

arranged they fare homeward---- feeling a bit less isolated.

Still other people handle their isolation by great memory feasts and
recollection parties, ending with "Sust wait till I get back"! ,

"Boy, won't that boat look good to me"! --- and others wellknown,
And still others, like the Supt, at the Good Samaritan Hospital
who says she won't have another dog because she expects to be
too miserable when she loses her first, refuse to feel anything
lest they feel alone sometimes! a
I have had the sihoet tx the past two weeks that the
Past, with alla its certainties and km known pleasures, its mellow
satisfactions, its maudlin securities, acts as the great inertia
and obstruction to the Desire and Impulse of any sort; capable |
of smothering by logic any and every of the stange umessoria ble
sparks of wanting-to-do- something-for-its-own-sake, Of the strength
of the Past -- letters from home, photographs, and My Goa tunes
on the Victor ---- I've had proof adequate of late, but rc heer
have had such a magnificent knowledge of freedom as breaking with
it gives, nor have I been ever felt as the danger of perpetual se-
curity as frsh as now comes the delicate security of perpetual dan-
ger and isolation, You are one of the few people I know who I know
can understand what I mean---- and you know as well as I do that
sometimes the Past gets a merciless inning, that the worst of being
sick is the vague homesickness that goes with it, and how disgrace
fully grateful you feel to the people who protect you for a second
and then plant you on your feet again Jiueput the other you like
as mhch as I: looking over this Brazilian to the palms, cedars,
and bananas trees, the bright red earth, the pink and yellow
stucco houses, the distant fazendas, and the blue mountains at the
rim of the sky---- thats all new, beautiful, and it is reality,
for I'm out in those hills in a week treating 400 Portuguese @ gay
ae trying to get casts of how to live into them at the same time,
Which is a great deal better than tekk looking out and .thinking of
"what used to be " ete etc, I am grateful to have you to write to
for nobody else I know could possibly conclude that (1) I am not
lying away homesickness, or (2) that I am noy on the verge of bec
oming a Brazilian---- they would inevitably believe one or the other,
I wish you were knocking around with me here, rédvime with
pleasure, as I do (much to the stirprise and delight of the sombre
natives) at all the things: I see, things that amuse all grades

from Rabelais to Charles Lamb, ‘Twould be such a delight --- for
33

I know you'd think of them much about tne Same as I and. they are
certainly like nothing on earth, Yesterday I heard a pleasant
flutey sert sylvan sort of music in front of me on the street.

A rough thin slouching sort man approached with a large glass

case with cakes in it balanced beautifully on his head, and in his
hand he held ‘to his mouth an absolute replica of the pipes of Pan—
reeds bound together | eh which Hameee solemnly rather wistfully
_blowing---his cakes for sale---- ag he walked down between the

open Windows of his clientele on the Rua Brigadiero Thomazo Tobias.

EN

# Hydrick-- one of the Commissao Rockfellar men down he
here says that about 8 years ago an American Gunboat, having

occasion to go up the Amazon a way, sighted a Brazilian flag fly
ing over a fort . fhe Commander was feeling tactful and oredcred
a four gun salute to the Brazilian flag--- which was duly carried

out, A single gun from the fort acknowledged the salute----- and
a launch put out from the fort with a huge white flag flying and
_the €.0. of the fort in beautiful uniform, to say that he would

have held out to the end but that he ran out of powder]

 

Ther's a wave of anti- Americanism béing fostered by t
the I talians and the anti-governmeny crowd here now, and its
great sport to watch our opportunities to extend or retract our
work as the opportunities occur, Wilson's lies Mexican policy and
his attitude to our foreign possessions, in the opinion of the
men who have been here 40 years, is the only reason that it is
possible for Americans to live openly or honestly here at allg
There were some very mercenary and Shady deals about to be
backed up by the U.S. government had not W, been elected.

Kermit was much involved! Hal!HA!
Good luck and tell me what goes on, when thi

Splrit moves you

 
 

 

 

Oct
AA ete

 

 
 

 

 

 

34
Does it inwardly irritate you to have it type-
written? I won't ageiri if it does but it 4e so convenient to
have all the letters describing things down here done this way
‘to keep the copies of for the ffiture ond the rest of the family
wee vell I have yet to hear from then as @ matter of fact on this
and other subjects,

Toenight, May 19th, makes the end of my first
month in Brazil, but I wont burden you with the soggy sort: of
review of deeds that falls due upon anniversaries, but pass on
to all the things that are making this long chance I took more
and more successful as time goes by, of course the 19th of May
is most famous to me as the great national holiday of that
gon auong nations, the TROBANS, btu but the surfeit of hol-
idays anong the Brazilians has begun to eclipse the rare days

 

given over to rejoicing among the eine nller peoples,

I have been here in Sao Paulo fo: about three
weeks picking up some of the medicine and lab, work that is
going to be useful to me at work here, In having the comreade~
ship and direction of Jack Smillie, a C,c, graduate who was
in II Academy Greek with me and is assistant in the Gert.
School of Hygeine here and in the Rockefeller Foundation as
well, I am certainly fortunate, And it is just as comfortable
to have as chief boss Lewis Hackett, who preceded me up abot

“the Richards Camp, This week I shall go out to Atybaia or to.
/

Parana’ to a post up in the coffee to get ion in to the

real field work, And thence to Rezende again with Smillie for
a longer Stay and probably some real first hand work, August
(the dead of winter) will see me in ay own field possibly in
Santa Catherina or Marinhao where it is assumed I shall be the
bess and run things to suit myself and write my own reports
and have the management of three or four: posts and all the mi-
eroscopis we and guardas( nen nurses d ‘that 1% takes te run them,
"But as things seldom are the same as you expect

and as prophecy is not anybody 's forte ‘these oar to eer:

 

my letters to what I! ve econ will -sathery you best,

 
 

 

 

myself wondering where you are and what goes on? So auch | 80 that.
ah” £9) ree i

T

coming about the time. this gets to the U oo

 

an going to send this home to the Flat and relye on er home

Xeoteraay au rT was coming hone he. lunch. a ragged slouch-
ing sort of mon approached me and he was “making a pleasant syle
van sort of music somehow, with sonething, at his mouth, Balanced
beautifully on his head a large glass case of cakes, and in his
hand, eure. enough Pan’ s Pipes--reeds bound together with & ‘thong
on which ae he was solemnly rather wietrully Dlowing----his cakes

for Bale---9a8 he walked dow Ddetween the open windows of his”
_ elientele S10N6. the Rua, Brigadiero Tobias, rs a reat, place here
to ‘find new and consequentiy very oa oustoms, —
iihen you pass. the cemetery here avery hat in the. street
car. is lifted, And a block further. on af the. girl in front of you
. gets off she says goodbye with her hand pala up wiggling G11 the
fingers, to the friend she is leaving, eti2l on the oar, All the

 

*

carrying is done on the ‘head. ---up to pianos, where it is recog-

 

nised that four heade ane better than one, Of course all the =
stores are open to the street, ond. the same holds true for the |

many laundries, apparently the girls who iron there in their bare

 

 

calves and white dresses. fina that looking at all. whe passersby Re
makes their work drag less boringly,. The butcher shops ane to sell — Te
each day's meat before noon or it is taken aay from them, And if =
you like fresh ailk,, as ‘the cow might gay. to the esaf " “you know

what you can do” mo for the milking can ve aene out on the street

in front of your house»

uty

fhere is no libel Law her at all and ‘the art of seur-
réllous Writing flouriahes to an astonishing degree, with plenty

 

o"(which means: the’ £01

 

of sheets like "Perfusc “ew) to ruin peoples’
names, But of course the writing is amusing and it must be a ‘relief
when you have a ghod mad on to be able to publish all of ith *

: During the past week I was the speaker at a Current
Events class where with e Coldstrean Guardsman I told thon about
this war --.“that® they are so blissfully ignorant of down here, a
I didnt let then a4 with the journalict's ideas about the war

nd told then net boasted 80 much about

 

Bose,

     
 

as ee ae i aes
aa hi s oe ges na
s : ‘ ae ee ee,

 

 

is ~--and then t

a Anericans who up aa.

as they had been told about in ,
read and sot our ideas from in the U aBe

boxes and trays,

 

how you find these.

  

the ‘perfection | of all ay aid ana of how they had won the Yar

and of how well “the mail was being delivered to the boys etce

 

and of how the Amerdecn soldiers were the teat fed of all etc.

  

Bes ‘no incline @ to criticise, but that as it.

   
 

then I should not fee
4 id them. som of the things I have seon among -
the Americans and ¥ tota shen Mk bs tb interes: ing thing, to me
about those facts was that I couldnt get anyone at home to believe

then, and they wouldnt either, The YoM.C.A, critictens were brought

up or course and I ‘told then everything can happen in war and that

I think that the current feeling "the ‘troops was due more to

 

Xs inefficiency ‘than to sectarian ‘resentment (a reason suggesed by
@& woman. whose noting js in the Xt de © also think that some of

 

  

he end anant imow that there was @ WAR on

 

and were acting a bit peevish because things didnt go as smoothly —

those daanea newspapers we all

 

Well to tell the truth I found hone coming a very atneneee

ing business because I dont, think the spond who stayed at home

will ever reaiise what

enough folie

- them oe I didnt see

 

 

were worth | all the o dying that £ t saw beting done

 

for then, Too many. curs,

There. are perf: etly lovely woods here in Brazil, Such —
colors and arrangements of grain as you could nog dream of, and.

By i
ee

Ae"

ve wosdsorkers a marvel or

  

in the hands of some of these ‘al

their own possibilities, I shall nadt eave without some of their |

Do be a good Lady ané
United 4 retu 111
Faiths family more amusing and delightful ti than ever, She ie the

 
    

only one who moking much application of the sterling principles
of large families which we iearned at 731 North Cascade, And

aS @ partial result the ern all
the time, I liked 1t better thai

 

Good luck and cheerto--- wish 4 Soup: have waited

till you came back before |

   

 
 

i

Kok Ma,
cop Wi
£1. Oe Raho | .
SS ee

rg
an

ae I
ne

ne
zt

%

fo a

/

pI

\I/

Khe K
a

ey

 

Po AG he
LPP YS

i

)

 

Din
-—

Pw

td

‘ fi
ee gi | |. eis

 

 
Ayes ot
gree es

56

Hearing, that the Uberaba is leaving Santos on the 28th
I am going to chance a letéer filled with the urgent trivial re-
quests that seem to develope so acutely when you are miles from
any sort of stores or agencies for the wellbeing of man,
Sometime when you are in town can you order a pair of

 

low shoes from Coes& Young (they have my size and style) and going
next door order at Delanos @ good Leghorn or Bankok hat size 7 3/8
or 7 1/4 large, And can you telephone M, Sullivan in Cambridge on
Mt, Auburn St, near Boylston and tell him to make me two suits of
light white duck and two of light weight kahki drill, with waiste
coats, 1,e, 3 piece suits, He has my measurements, And give to
each the enclosed paper to be put on the package when it is sent
to International Health Board 61 Broadway, New York City, to be
forwarded from there, ‘Charge them to yourself and I will see that

 

® : you get a check for $100, in time to gave your using the back door
as they flow in the front door bills in hand, Clothes can be gotten
in about 2 to4 months time thus and are infinitely to be preferred
to the atzrocious prices and doubtful workmanship here, —
If Sullivan is dead or out of reach they may remember me
at Macullar Parker's where IT got a suit in shantung silk about te
Feb 23 saat, | |
Today as I Was working at the School of Hygeine I heard
a wid yell or two and then the usual sequence of pistol shots and |
more yells and then looked out to see the whole neighborhood on t
the deat run toward the row, which means it Was & civilian affair
because in the case of its being the State Police in a row the
one was killed but like our ow early -days fights are managed that

crowd is always and wisely ce

 

al, I dont know whether any

 

way, On one of the fazendas we did shme work on a well known bad
man got into touble with the omer, At eight o ‘lock in the even-
ing he told his friends that he was going to shoot the owner the
next time he saw him, The fazendhiero knew the man meant what he
said , when he heard the threat two hours later, He knew that the
eunman would enter the fazenda at about 6 the next. morning and he

knew the gate he would be coming by, So at 5 the owner went to the —

     

phy eee eee meas uate ort eile ia WE AS Aagchraes saa TRC edi ier 20 ane hak Om RE aa eg 2 CE alt eh Tk a Ca ane 2 A
Ms tae iy Sr aes Ri PA Pate eh Wiig nT! ioe) ‘hetg 4 Wise tees
 

 

 

 

 

gate with no gun showing and when the murderer came up on his
pony surprised him so that he simply told him that he ‘in
dare murder him and that if he did to try, All the fazendiero
had said the night before when told this fellow was after
him was " I will see him before he works himself up to it", .
My period of instruction is nearly over, It has been
Simply invaluable ,a° you would suppose for I knew nothing
of H* or malaria when I came, I shall be at Regzende doing
regular post work next and will write you. from there, |
I have seen what a tremendous disease hookworm is demonstrae
ted on the small hospital scale here, The seriosly infected
look like pernicious anemia with bloods as low as 20% hemo~ —
globin, and the common rate being 40 toS0, It is interesting |
to be able to predict a mans wages in the coffee by taking
his hemoglobin;s0 closely does the proportion | work out,
And another interesting thing is that in the Malay States
the proportion between ankylostomes and necators was so def-
inite shat for each race,--Chinese, Tamils, Europeans etc,
that farling thinks it may be of some value in unravelling
‘the obscure points in the origtns of the races there, ethnic
| groups widely scattered having the same "anky Los tome index!
He io & mosg stinulating and interesting mani, and has a

 

mental sweep that is quite rare and yet not at all put ‘on,
n
I fthe Gregg family wish to have a bro, that in the

immotile immortal phrase of Mrs, Forbes, "4s out of touch
with things in Milton" they could club together at say July

1ith and give me a subscription to the ‘Sunday Herald;
Your birthday will go by before you get this but
best of luck and frequent thinkings of you,

X sdsaBe

ot a

 

 

 

 

 
3

going on actively

to see how much behaviour tells,how little what 4s said, At

  

| It 4p the third of June ---the dead of winter here , the
time most dre ded by the coffee growres: on account of the chance
beauty of the endlessly blue sky

 

of frost and when you Look at the
and the temperature of South Tamworth in late May ,-- 1t is not a
very threatening sort of winter after all,

Since the ‘265th of May I have been up in kthe interivr--
that 1s about 12 hours in , at two places naned Brodowald and Ati- |
baia, tiny primitive frontier places where we have poste and work

 

AMOTLS, the corres and cotton fazendas, To Brod-
owski the night train from Sao Paulo takes 12 hours, at first on

a perfect rail , later on the wildest sequence of jerks end lurches —
that was ever called a railmoad, pulled by the usual woodburning
engine, These woodburning engines are no joke, the glowing ¢inders

frequently burné your travelling clothes in Large holes, -<- but

at night are quite fine to see,’ a créss between volcano and a.
pinwheel,

I wenb up with Dr, Hydrick and his successor here as etate
director Dr, Mario Pernambuco, Hydrick is & very likable and pol«

ished southerner, a Rhodes scholar, and a a very good men, ~e Mario

fs a wise, even-tempered little fat mm man, with the face a highly

educated baby, and a@ pleasant way of deliberate contemplative ditties:
Brazilians are much nore careful about meeting their friends and
employers at the station than we are, so it was no surprise to see

most of the personel of the post at the train when we arrived, We

walked right up to the post arid surprised the secretary still in his

pajamas at 7 o'clock in the ‘morn,--for wiiich ‘he promply got a cool

comment from Dr Hydrick who ig one of those enviable people who

doesnt lose his own balance when he wants to upset others, We found
that the cuardas ( the men who ride out and give treatment under the
doctors ordets) were on strike and the mornings business rapidly — :
turned to the interviewing of 411 the guardas, and running a South
American strike among about twenty rather frightened but defiant men,
Not knowing enough Poruguese to follow the talk I spent my time try-

ing to decide | whetherthey were lying, or no$, You would be surprised

 

 
 

 

Fis ey’ g ‘
ale as
a

 

and life oP many ways is date? 1835 ‘

ss
3

 

we had fired three men, These wens to the others and started

a little movement to call our hand by ail going . Hydrick's

southern temper was just the thing for this and when he

went out to them with eyes blazing and called out " Que

mais ? que mais? " (who else ? who else To they decided

they wouldnt go after adiand the strike waxed very weak,
The cause, in case Richard's social instincts are arroused
by the apparently high handed treatuent of labor, was the
fact that they were all reprimanded for being late to break
fast vy their chefe, who owed a Little money to the ‘aceeal
leader of the "strike", ”

The town of Brodowsict ie T1A%. and western in the

“eompletoness of the plan and the incompletenese of the sez

settlement, It 1s in highk rolling hille which are covered _
with unending rows of coffee bushes, _ a rich deep green and

a beautiful thing to see, You do not thin of Brazil as
mountains, but. that is almost all I have seen. thusfar an
Hackett sayS that io nearly all there is, The ground is a

very deep red, almost purple, and Looks just Like ‘Bheod on
the horses lege when you come in from @ zone or area of treat
ment. It is @n enormous country and in the interior I was

just at Abraham Lincoln's time--- the early settlers are

pushing on into the wilderness with muszle-loading rifles —

and axes, the shanties are shared by much ee the livestock .

_ On the 29th, starting at 4 AM., on & little single
footing horse »Raoul Dini, the guarda, and I rode out to the

fazenda Ollhos d‘Azua. ost of the way it Was bright Star-

light with a cool morning breeze and. everghhing on the road=

side looming very large and more than ever strange, as in a

* |
POG When we gotto the fasenda madrugsada wae just breaking
over Lovely rolli..g hills whose outline against. the ¢@e red

aky showed the low even planted coffee bushes as far as I

cuuld see, Our ponies wheeled sharply into § eourt-yard of
a large low buildins and two large dogs charged at then — ee

       

 
 

 

 

 

     

<
.
Z° i at” ,
[ > - i _ @ a ae i. we, ws “F
, OitA : Z Ou hh, A < LAa, Fa
. 8
“
<
a * 2 IE
i ony’ 7 * o 47a
*
.
. ‘

           
ma Plantacio de Milho

 

oe

Santos. Serie em cores No. 514

 

+

 
 

ee:

ah

in 2 os oF r Ut ‘ie,

 

 

in a protestional-natentos, eort Or way, ‘to be | etlenced rate

rine ss with a aa

 

by the fazendero wie cane out in the hhalfedar oo
in his hand to via us "Bom dia"! He was o large fat shortenecked =

‘man with porky eyes, : 8 ‘rough unkempt beard, a swarthy skin, but

 

- pather gracious manners and obviously nobody ' 8 fool. rie ied tue
_— up ‘some low end cramped stairs to a large dark. room where we sm
had some excellent corfee and bread and were eyed with giesling,

curiosi gy fro. ‘the depths of the kitehen, by what later prove,
to be his aeughter, ‘The damm came on quickly and soon we went—_

 

ne aedicina

i ae

   

out to some of the colonistas howses to give:

various members of the family--- usually & very weary and wicore

  

setted mother, a tired end. wrinkle? father pale under hic sun
and an assortment of undersized tired ¢ ildren, on for every year
since the Catholic church lent its authority. The baby always
howled and spat out 1/3 of the ‘medicine, but the guarda had ‘De-
“eomme an expert and didnt lose his temper at all, but shovelled.

in the 500 with all the zeal ef-« that comes of an incomplete
training in the art of medicine ,: ‘Then wandering round the fasenda :
till there wareno poss@bilities of any poisoning, from the aedeine

I was shown more amusing ne. fruits, insects, and methods of

farm manageuent than I have “ever” seen in 60. _ohort a-epacuief..)

   

w fruit on low vines

ine, There nere cfd nes th
scem a ¢ross “between 2 squash and an orange and aeice delicious

ay ae, bre e) ; e yell :

 

 

doces or candied fruit. On gnarle: low trees I pAeseR, ang, at

 

jaboticaba, a berry & Bbawt the eize of | . large chorry DLs A
the! flavor of a jJaboticabs--- the beot fhat can be done by |

 
 
 
       

 

of teitins you what to expect wi ven you ta te them for li
they gx

cts 5

 

me :
+e as ge

or tae. tres each fron a tiny stiff little Rew otioging rd

 

downland, And erwling on the _— were ants of ws ware

  

    
 
   
  
      
     

 
 

of

     
 
    
   
 

  

  
  

   

 
 

 

     
    
  
 
 
   
 
 
  
  
 
  
   
 
 
 
 
 

 

   

   

   

 

 
 
 
 

 

  

en nee oe
1b of “were cential hime 4
One day a new linea U.S, found 4 line. a.
orted-circuited ond sent & lineuan out to find. ene a
& the matte, was, The man found one of the nests just |
like the one I saw , promply climbed the pole attached his Se
atus to the wire and. called up the. Lines on : ,
Mell, who 4s causing the trouble?" said the fume h
Jao de Barro” gaia the nan laconieally, hav seen the same ae
ni ‘before, wv Seis wei’ ee a: omelet 4 2 :
"e212 him that the Company is going to start legal |
8 against him" said the Manager, — |
ney have a pleasant musical and ve Me

5 the grain out in the rural districts here, I

 

ir shed on the fazenda there was placed on a big stone base the

of a cedar tree about two feet ak

 

and hollowed out in the

er into a huge bowl, gle aing red

 

grain of the wood polished re

; constant use, The rest of the tree, along heavy log, was bel-

y 4 ‘

  
 
   
 
   
    
  
    

  
 

 

bowl tas 2 very. large peg fixed at rig ee | be: "
and the end sticking out of the shed was hollowed intoa | oe
eee He " aah ie DP certh Oa ; |

spoon which they led a emall brook frou @ chute ef or —

‘ ; Fes ; f , i : , r. #

, The water filled upthe apoon, with a loud ercak she log
nd. with athud fel)

  
 

  

@ down,poured out the water back into opps

 

 

    

on to refilis-the other end with the peg thus pounding dom =

 

wih heavily. It made a pleasant noise, dull

      

 

sor
or

Po

dless variety of

    
  

   

 

ner even inag
pw

 

The Majoolo,

 

A cart with wicker sides for taking

‘coffee to the Railroad,
 

coo

 

|
i
;
i
j

 
 

af
ar

 

“again, or you would be reactive :
with greot cerenony ane hospitality in some “irtefloor parlor

imply Dentel Boone all over a

to seca varlot, of ‘shtngs besides opilaca

 

pe the | native nane
for hookworn, of things: that the local nedi cine man the Curae
diero has tol’ the people are incurable, and they bake his

word as religiously as some take Reo, Cabos iin otier parts or
the norid, I just Lor

 

ged for a few inctruaents a it! 8 r.ther

fun to be taken for & aingele worker when yom. are ‘Sure ef your

results!

 

The doctor at Atibaia Was DR, Ay Pimenta2 Salgado, nose

name in Portucuece me ne pepper and salt, and who Was rather

amusing colipamy and a source of some new taforuetion about Brash, s
He has ‘blue eyes --an

 

glieh grandfather crt whieh is a dis- f
tinct relief nowadayee & more weleome and safer Sign of relise ae

bility than it Was at hones, That sounds ridiculous probably

but blue eyes mean less of the. tar=brush, and as a rule a. know

that means ‘something, He toldime a gesture ~— Was new ---
if you snap your fingers against your neck at scans " dont ask
me to talk about. such a thing !" and another, ‘ir you put phe.

thumb of the right hand in the palma of the left and turn it - ae
it neans "the % man is a thier --- he's cheating you. » He tells es

  
 
 
 
  
  
  
 
 
 
  
  
   

 

me he nade xanan $3000, an the erippe epidemic here i ast epring.
in about 6 weeks and just. barely. out of School at ‘that,

On the 6th I go to Resende for Some , ‘field work there,
It. is about three hours out of Rio and, in. perfectly lovely

 

country, Thank the Lord 4 got my sense of direction back while
I was at Atibata, | it was £0 hard to think of the sun coming

oF _

from th: north! And at first dom here Tr was lost beyond hope

zs
. * Pe
ez Nall

becau: e I couldnt keep 1 ay directions strc ght. <<
An getting very, much tint: rested in 200logy with | SO a
mony new thinge +o, see. corm here, Tt As still time pr ,Darling —
saye to aie a new species arter yourself} He has refused a
moaquise and tyo LickSe=— I would be proud of any thing.

There are entirely strange diseases here that do not abpes

 

 

in our =

 

    

S ish bonbhonhe,, ame’ fresh. y Aeseripea < BA hl cove ed
* notice the 4] ,

 
 
 

 

 

 

 

   

t beeNS >
uals Hoe
alee

but ‘that ie not | uncoamon An living in foreign countedhs and

- Ua etds remind me ‘that tere are euch “things - ‘It mill be oad

to have the same ‘Asolation froa th: r otof people a Te: (ards
Brazil ‘when 1 get ‘back that r nad about Burop: an war when I
was at hone. ‘?will be fun aeotius people froue=--Brazilt

ae They will be live bis ds Ahmany caneseayou shoul gee how bre

: crossing of the eqé ater enlarges the realns o. “topics accepte c

in: poli tek conversation! A dinner party is ‘something | else
again | Ma WUSs , to what at was in ‘Boston!

“Tf any of he offs, rune have stamp collections I am

Ridin fo: & position as Toren agent for @ Brazil and

Wiad ” pleased be serve ‘

:

I do not believe tha. Parwell is regretting his trip

at all, and though I never ‘thought him one to frivel overuch

r'22 bet he is pretty serious minded when he comes back Take

hin round a bit as soon as can deen at 4s hard and tiring work

to try and bear the burdens of the world at this particular

stage of | the game, I should be pe 80 interested to talk with hin
shen ne eomes back, 1 shall be ‘Interested to know what nis

- Ampressions of fnelahd are,

rd hope thet the biological details. of your family are
beginning to’ take less and lees of your time, the brushingof.

teeth, the wiping of noses, the cutting of cectk ait God knows »

what more, Make then take ¢ re of themselves for & bit and.
put in a prayerful half hour each day thinking of what you'd

most Like to do and doin it, Just becuuse mz you have had

 

a, Large and happy family, nor lost a husband to death or to
indifference like many other women, nor lost a son in the war,
these are no good reasons for not being as happy as con be
now that the farily is fair into college, you'll make better
hay in this bit of sunshine 4f body is given over to spirits
end @hapsrs' your scrutiny is given to theatre programs instead
of the eternal diaper, Without wore advice from a brother as
old as Jin was when your ‘second was born (figurative way of
saying young but not so awfully young) you can continue your
wellimown domestic triumphs unaided ~--but do write me some

 

 

~*
a2

>

 

to see siene of people here being
ceptions

  

A

Vceh- 2 by | Age

It be ‘ules and we have just fini ched the
morning mecal called almoco, at 11:50 and Smillei and I are sitting
in the bed reon wad ting for the spirit to come over us to make —
out a list of all the people we have treated gince 6 this morning —
both in the Santa Casa de Misericordia and elsewhere, We are no-
longer in the state of Sao Paulo but dow near Rio in a tow by |
the name of Rezende, situated much like Colorado Springs, with
splendid high mountains to the west of us and With the same beau- _
tiful weather to bless us all day long,

We came on the 6th and today is the 8th ; yesterday.
went into & long day of wondering ‘Up and dow the village street

looking for apeetes cases to treat today---an attempt to test the
_ routine treatment for its efficiency in getting rid of He infection

and to try out the value of some more fresh chenopodium, I begin

 

keen about the work in ‘the wee, ts

 

given. Yous An the native huts, end in the voluntary ros

 

quests for treatment from the people who have geen what it has _

done for their friends, The number of negroes here 48 much above
what it is dow in Sao Paulo, and the houses are even more sketchy
than ever, ah

Part of our work Ls in. the 1e0al santa , Casa, & combine
ation of poor house and hospital, It is large and airy but none |
too clean ana fhoating about. there a that same old acrid smell

of the poor ard. unkempt, that makes ime th

   

Peers 8% least that it
is not Russia with any excuse for closing the windows ! There is
& Girl who propels herself about the floor ona her hands, legs

long since paralysed, who eifts the corn and leers at the str

 

gers
or beats the wandering chickens cats and dogs who are far more

real to her than touz us, There ie an old man who wonders about

telling us that if he had had any sense he would have taken kero-

sene years ago for it brings the air in his body just as it takes

the air into a lamp--and he then produces a bottle of it from his

dirty pocket and drinks plenty of it for a dewonstration, "I used

to like Jao Periera da aay once” he murmurs frequently "but tha

   

 

 
 

 

e to God I dont likr him any

 

more", And all. the other inant
9 of a Portugues or rather a Brazilian poor house, and eal
ruel stupidities, 3 3 |
Outside two Royal, Palme readh’ up their flawless shafts
seventy or eighty fect wi th a ‘thick rich collar of green at
ve top from which’ sway the innuaerable: otately Leaves---
one of the most. wonderfully ‘eatisractory trees r have ever : |
seen, And to ‘the west down a picturesque street. of blue, white
yellow or bronzed houses | stands an ola chureh against ‘the
deep blue’ of these strange irregular mountains, Long teans
of oxen lazily drone dom. the etrest, the whells creaking
_ exactly as the pookeasé tn Fathers study 1 used to, louder
and never ending while the catr meee turns its solid wood=
en wheels, 7 ae
Last night the village drunk, Gabriel, cme “round to
see us, 70 years old, but happy with pinga ‘(the native whis

key) ‘and insisting on long conversations with himself or

any one ‘else, only too: ‘aelighted to sing and dance for us

‘in the moonlit garden the songs of the early days when he mas

ae slave and a man he knew who tried to kill his forner mas-

 

  

ter, He is ap rfect natural clown, and ‘I can see him sfill-

dancing extravaganbly and to a chorus of pers a

be 3

_ gong to a flea

Eatava na cosinha
Fazendo o meu jontar
© diabo da pulga —

 

Nordeu neu ‘calcan

Olhe como pula,
Como transita,
Como e travessa
Esta MALAL GA»
Pulga te juro,
pou testemunha
 Pego-te no dedo
Estaloe-te na ania,

Sacudo a coberta, Torno a sacodir,
O diabo da pulga

Nao me deixa dormir,
Father's polyglot tendencies will probably suffice to un-
ravel all this, which was sung in a very thick gutteral
‘way that I could only recognize parts of,

 

 

 
 

  

Aletter from Hackett tonight confirms my impression which I
wrote to you that I would go south to do a survey there,

He says "We have two pieces of work to be done this year ince
the bugets expire on. canenber Sist, These are the surveys of —
Santa Catherina and Parana,, Since the work in Santa Catherina
is to be followed by the immediatexk installation of an inten-

 

give post, it would be well to @o Parana first, The trained

personal from the Parana survey con then be taken te Santa Cc
Catherina , and later used as bhe nucleus j0F an intensive post,

You will wnt to begin this. work in July,"

   

Which when translated into terms of one U,5, syllable. means te
that I am going into the coolest part of Brazil ame
white people than anywhere else to do the work of finding out

the extent of dnfection in a state and later going to do the

same thing in even @ cooler and more southern part of Brazil

this later time anong the great German section !

LOok up your map and find me ---for rin be there by the .

 

 

time this gets to you,

That was rather e oxtraspeineey news about Gerald Seldon

ridge that you wrote me, Gene Prston had taken the eiieens of

rprise out of it by what. he had said to me ‘the year I was

 

out ink the Springs but I cant say At is any less impressive,

AS you. or 1924 ought to be a great, celebration and J think

you can count on my being, at ‘the table. with a few remarks about
how well I like the U.S, food and what it @ll means to have

a large family of siblings and a supernormal Mother and Father

ef the ANGLO-SAXON race ! In these things. T am content,

All the afternoon we have spent at the. Santa Casa,
wathhing o girl with severe symptoms of pobsonings after her
dosage thie morning, and poor old Smillie whose wife died here —
in Brazil last fall in childbirth, hoe all the scene recalled
to him every time he comes near to death, I dont suppose that

 

I will ever have to see so much as at Reily--- and.surely I hope

not, She is much better this evening poor ‘thing, When, we left.

the hospital the oravling girl and the old old. man were. sitting
out together on the stone poreh in the twilight quiet in the

quietness that cannot aif it wousd---aimply without help.
Good night to you both

 
w

4 oT fl

 

 

+}

 

Out of the Cosinha window Itatiaia,

Coming over from the mangero tonight I passed
two enormous palms, splendid, smooth-shafted, Royal
Palms,. eighty feet high, quiet and motionless in the
soft brilliant moonlight, against the strange irregular
outkine of Itatiaia,cloud ridden and high seats the
white huts, It is a village by day of bullock carts
squeaking down from the hills,bringing réce, beans, and
other coarse farm produce to exchange them for salt and
such implements as they may be satus cil ae 2
But for all the beauty and novelty I do not forget that
part of the world where hushed,stark, two-storied farm-
houses stand, not low white-walled casas fustnl with ie
the chords of guitars, nor where flutters white birches
in the eae and not tall whkke shining-leaved palms,

With moonlight on its slow swaying leaves--- well you
say its unforgetably beautiful but the chief trouble

de

 

is that such beauty is forgetable, it surpasses memory

and all that stays is the remenbrance of being overwhelmed.
ha
My

B

“ appes

 & Crude thatch of banana leaves, to& the rhy tha

o = Oo.

June i#th finds Smillie and me up on a huge fazenda at Itatiaia
the highest mountain in Brazil, busy treating the natives here
on some specially controlled work to determine the effectivensss

of the previous treatment they had, qt is very satisfactory to

gee that the hemoglobin of those whe have had the treatment be-

fore is notably higher then it was when they viere first tre.ted, |

and te see the willingness of the people to take the treatment,
- Smillie is a very good sort, with the saving virtue of in-

‘ gathable curiosity on a wide range of subjecte and consequengly

now well informed on many things here in Brazil, He has been

. doing the sane sort of work in the U.S, before coming dow here
and has had several amusing experiences dom in N,Carolina, |

When a diagnosis was in doubt yesterday he remarked that if Wu.
were in Carolina it would be easier because with children.

there can be only two things the matter; "Hives" and "thrash" ,

there can be the bold hives, the inw ra hives, or the plain hives,
The bold hives is alway s fatal, Inward hives are where no rash

irs, Thrash is any disease of the throat or mouth and include s

‘what we call diphtheria, tonsillitis, thrush, bronchitis and
peritonsillar abscess, The treatment for thrash is to ‘pass the.

enild backward through a white muled collar, The chief cause of

 

death is perishing’ to death and when pushed for an elucidation
of the term the county clerk ‘xpiained that "it happens that way",
I call these things to mind when tempted to think that things

are a bit backward in Brazil!

You'd have been a perfect companion at a party I saw night
called thie peourge ad 4 tHael«
ee a It was a negro dance, , Straight fron Africa, held
u

on the maw moon, in the

 

11 moonlight and around a fire mder

 

im of two "tambours"
or rawehide drums beaten witht the heel of the hand, When I saw

an excited buck in the store about eight in the evening buying —

ten bottles of rum and taking them away in a huge demi john it.
vas clear there was a party to come, These dances are always on
church holidays and are preceded ‘by uilach prayer, so that Smillie

and g waited till ten o'clock before we heard the thud of the

tambour, Wandering down toward the negro quarters we came upon

@ mule train camping by the road, the aninals just unloaded

were rohling. in the road while the men cooked, coffee and warme

:

 
ed up some beans for the evening meal,around a fire in taedust
of many @ former mule train, The nen told us that the pretos
(Portuguese for blacks) would take a bit more time with their

prayers, but that soon the "jongeo" would heads

 

In the bright
moonlight I drifted dow to the little chapel, which looks
for all the world like e parched whitened bone on the tree~
less field, and listened to the endof the service, It was
wild wailing and intoning, wiyh the left hand holding the
forenead while the ri cht ‘herd the chin, A dog, suffering %t
terribly from the fleas wandered in and out among the wor ahs p
ers onthe? | chey screaned requests to Sao Antonio, Suspect}
ing, by .o merely Congregational intuition that services were
nearly over I drifted back to the fire where Smillie was
still talking to the men of the mule train, We could hear
the queer resonant thud of the tambour, cetting higher and
higher pitched as they were dried. by the fire,and soon church

was out and we saw the white figures of the negroes Gresses —

‘@rifting across the fields, We followed and came toa a hut

with a small cleared dirt yard in front of it and a roof of

 

= +

 

 

{te gos?

banana leaves covering one part near the house, Nothing

can gtiite describe the noise that two men were making on
she tambourg--- a most inticate ,evasive rhythm fpom a
most primitive drum, A combination ef resonant thud and
shallow rattle , the contrast: will carry a league on &

quiet night, A tall very black buck stood swaying and

 
a

barefooted lorkskinned owmers and a stray our

 

  

i‘
pe
7%
if
3
s *
~~ i 6
.
o * ‘
“ us Pe
mer
. -

crouching by ‘the fire-light, in nae PRghL nad. a. tinean with
seeds in it,which he struck against hie Left "tana in rhytha |,

 

with the drummers, He was singing a, loud dance song also in
perfect time, and as a chorus to ‘this the negro wonen standing
at the edge of the floor wauled a series of yaheas ah, Other
negroes not singing tool turns rushing into the center of the
@aeet and choosing a wouen fron Uhe chorus danced around her —
with wild leaps and snapping of the legs. and general muscule
ar taut extravagance, whi Le she unconeernedly apun slowly
ever to face her. partner at two poles of an ebhene oval
through whieh they anced, This to nothing but rhy thin and

wild songs from ten till six the next morning. I woke at

four by chance ond still could hear the strange Dea hnne of
the tambours far away and» an occasional welling up of the |
song into the night, Later I learned that the big coon ae

Song an"eniex ” or conundrum and if the chorus couldn't

 

anewer back ke correctly he cang the same question all
night at them and in the morning he would have tom sive

the answer they should have guessed,

I apoke of the mule train, You'a have liked to
eee then coming dow the valley road, first a distant
tinkling cloud of dust in the moonlight, then a beautiful
61047 ringing dimes of four notes, end soon the lead mule

gk quite proudly ahead of all the others and his omers,

his collar hung with bells which rang clear and true,as

he passed, to point the way to the heavy~laden drooping

followers that scuffled along behind hin, with theér

exhaustedly

heéling the whole procession gut of veg agacu oa duty aaneuls sl

 

They have an anusing, phrase for board and lodging
when it is included in a man's Pays He ie payed "mi Lho"
or wet, whereas af Lavine: 49 ab 4
"secca® ary.

I wonder whet happened to the search for my

 

good o14 cigarette case, I maven) heard of at at all,

 

<a

 
ich iI can pear with fortitude, but if it was found by

osh I will be angry at the Brazilians if it has disappeared
in their mail or their customs, If you are holding it ti11
hearing from me, send it to me marked as apackage to be sent
down to Dr, Hackett and send it to the International Health
Board at 61 Broadway, TI am certainly attached to the thing
for it recalle many queer and some very hectic as well as
happy times ---besides being of adequate size and shape,

The fleas are something shocking here and I an
deflecting the course of miserable contemplation by consid-
coring the whole oersecution in the co@il though somewhat
pruritic light of anaphylaxis, I can take the top of of a welt
with more sood cheer and as much zeal when I remember that
each bite reduces my sensitiveness to the toxin of the
flea,

I shall soon have finished a description On one

of the posts, the one at Brodowski, of which there will be
& carbon copy to show you a bit more satisfactorily what s
sort of work it is here,

Do not let anybody worry about the fact there has

been yellow fever in Rio, We shall not have anything, to do
with it and there is no evidence or liklihood of its spread,

Good Luck and lots of it from

YeleBs

 

 

 
io

ee

 

F 45 &
Itatiaia, June 14

x¥ I'm out onthe fasenda Itaiaia, at the foot of the highest

montain in Braztt., with a 828p blue wanawaia ghee k us, a wild

and simple sort of patriarchal community, Sr eahAne the workers

tabalhadores, for their hookworm infection and learning this

seeniietinasy. language--Por tiiguese. "Language" begins my gram-

mar didactically, "may be i5ekto., written or gesticulated",

The last is the most novelg and engaging sport, a gesture here

is usually a brisk summary of a set of ideas too complicated o*

unsatisfactory to explain,and they have such amusing ones.

. Snapping the. fingers during any statement means: that the speak-

er is incapable of finding strong enough words at the moment
to express his ideas, Rapping the. collar, with the back of. the
index finger means "Don't ask me to explain such a fierce thing
to youl" Spinning the hand witht the thumb down as apivot means
or rather is a warning ar against being robbed: it once meant

' a corporal and threszx four. soldiers’ and hence a robbery on

the horizon! The language. itself is not hard to be poor at,

ee ee eee

but very much too rich in synonyms. ik subjunctives to be apoio
easily and well at the same time,

I wonder if the Freudian dope is still taking much of
your time; '‘'twas awfully interesting to find a person perfectly
inte@ligent , knowing the jargon and more cheery than morbid as
a result, Most people who"study" it get ina sort of dementia-
precox state so fidecan company goes and are sort of aloof and
intangible as the result of a little learning, But the pokam
point of view means such an engagingly openhearted and cheery
way of going: at trouble that I can't quite understand their gloon,
And thank God you hadnt that abstract and superior air of the
psychologiste ordinnaire --- that is boreing to an amazing te
degree and so futile.

Down here I have waves of considerable loneliness, with
much interest and satisfaction in between, If ever I went into

psychiatry etc, this would be forever an interesting contrast

to remember---- for where psychiatry devotes much time to patch-

ing up a man to be adequate to his environment and demands , pub-
lic health attempte so to modify his environment that no break

cam take place, i do not know much about either of tham yeun-s:

but at the rate of the past two weeks I'11 soon know more about
F.H. than psychiatry,

A nice old nigger, Jovita, (little Jove) has just come
in and given me acup of delicious coffee; with the nicest manners
you could imagine, Life is rather beautiful here for all its
crudities and inconveniences, and with work that sees
me out of bed at from four to six in the morning I
am not worrying puritanically about my soul's being
able to arise ,stretch every nerve etc, Ready rising
and psychic integrity are somehow related, don't you
think so? Abrupt full consciousness seems to cut short
a large amount of furtive half memories and moods that
cramp a days work or play continually, Nao e ? I have
had rare experiences with ready rising, I may proudly
add,

In the Smart Set the stuff by Nathan and Mencken
at the end of the number is worth everything you pay
in buying a copy except the agony of the jejune aphor-
isms about Love, that are scattered through it like
brilliants in a haircomb, I liked Nathan's definition
of a Broadway star---" usually a heavenly body",

I wonder where you are this summer-~-but it
is pleasant to reflect that you're not one of those
for whom the question of "what are you going to do this
winter"? has any terrors or desperate importance, I
would invite you to Brazil on any acceptable outrageous
pretext, and write railroad passes for you even when
you chose to visitar, provided you refused to learn to
Speak any Portuguese to me and provided you wore some
shade off blue that I might never be under even the
fleeting impression of a fear that I was looking ab
another browneyed creature! In case you can imagine
anything more delightful and refreshing than wandering

in a lovely country (expenses free*)X among a kindly
simple pastoral people, raising their hemoglobins, wages and
what is more their spirits--- with fleas and the distance
from New York as the only drawbacks --- come on ! In case
you can imagine a glorified California, where no one is ever
criticised or restrained, because it is well known that A-
mericans live very strange but very happy lives (they adore

our movies), and in case you can think of eur Brazil as

?

just as healthy a place as Baltimore, and a wonderful hop
into the middle of next summer--- in case all these things
suddenly surprise you all at ance and you begin secretly to
look up the sailings to Rho during say the month of Noven-

ber, please write in time and tell me what you are going to

ado next winter !

 
o.oo.

I've. been counting and differentiating some
0000 worms in the past two days with Dr. Smillie and
living during the scuro hours of the night in a large
Brazilian fazenda.'Tis most interesting as a form of life
--simply our own 2 West of 1848 all over again so far as
ive distances, fortunes, life in the saddle, frequency
of justifiable homicide, and the other ephemeral phenomena
that go to, mxke be remembered as. our lives, Iam enjoying
it @ lot but, would,-be more so, had I found some U.S. blond
of all the nameable and unnameable virtues to "share"
this, life with me. I; will, admit that "sharing." would -
include the following dialogue:

"Ermintrude" (I am in terror lest Mrs. Gregg will
have some exotic name that I will be all the time forget-

ing so that I will have to punch her to get her attention)
"Ernintrude , the fleas have bitten are biting and will
bite me terribly today".

And she sand reply with delicious previty and an

eczematous sweep of the hand "Me too"----- and that would
be sharing life. 2 |

 

 
y

June 1%th

Your letter of June 10th making splendid time got here
just in time for my birthday and helped the day on @ lot, And bee
fore you stop to call me a toad for writing you on a typewriter,

I want to explain that ink isnt easy to get here and another man
has my fountain pen for the moment and he is up in Sao Paulo, and
that I will write you a longer letter to make up and ask your par=-_
den for it anyway, Gosh how I would like to be there if you decided
to grant a pardon!

I am going to send you a picture that will, yes it's got.

 to,make you stop thinking that California is as good as can be had,
There can be no place in the world as wonderful as Rio harbor, Most —

of th: globe trotters say 36 and I can not imagine a more beautiful

‘nOP more unreal place in all the wide world, The mountains tumble

into a bay that reaches in 16 miles throuch rocks and slides and

‘palm-covered hills and the eity with oll Lis pink and blue and.

yellow houses seems not a city at all but a few awellings hidden

by the trees, Royal Palms that reach eighty feet up into the air

& clean emooth shaft and then flare out in a great easy swaying

tuft of big shining green leaves, And colors such as I never believed
could be except in dreams, When the picture comes. TN as well
look up the sailings to Rio! That will settle it!

I Ge to Parana in a week I expect and start a survey there
of the exbent of hookworm in that part of Brazil, It will be wild-
er and I expect rougher work than up to now and will last till
October or November I expect, You have a chief guarda or nurse,

& man of about 37 in my case, and a microscopist, another doctor
and one or two nurses, also men, You go into & country and take

a tom you want to do, arrange and give a lecture and then examine
and treat the people after for anywhere from 5 days to two weeks,
examing far more than you treat, but keeping a careful record of
@ll the people so that when a post is established later you can
save all the time and get right to work treating ond using a cure

as an argument show them how to prevent the recurrence of the

 
disease, What I get out of it mainly is the mnage-
ment of men and money and I hope I dont go galley
west on either side, I have a good boss here in the
Central office who wont do a thing but give me a11
the free rein you can think of giving 4 man, 60 I

 

think things may prosper,

You write a very satisfactory sort of letter
Marie (Gosh I dont know any Marie; what goes on here
in Brazil!) Martha you write a very satisfactory Letter
and along in September or whenever this reaches you,
forget that Marie wriges a good letter and remember
what Martie can do,3;3 and do it, And inasmuchas I got
a birthday letter fpom you when would I be writing to
return the sensation which was a pleasant one ? When,

I repeat,

Has Dwink come home yet? And have you seen the
Illustriseimo Dr, Schollyms yet? I shall be very worried
when I hear he is loose in California so do not write
me when it happens, —

I asked an old Brazilian woman we were treating
how ola she Was, "Thanks be to God I do not know" ahe
said, “Well have you any chilaren?" "Z have lots of
then" she replied, "Where is the eldest"? Pointing at
the railroad dow the valley she said in despair "For
the love of God Se;

 

hor ! Before those iron boxes went
sliding dow the valley to Rio I could know something
about my children, but Nossa Signora how is & woman to
to know anything about her family nowadays!"

If you dont get a word from S,America roy
@ bit know, blame the iron boxes because they are

to blame again,

Godd night
RIO DE JANEIRO, COPACABANA.
7

 
mik—so=\- ae ert ome lanes l—

C

ww 7 ee

N
any

|
4
]
\

 
  
           
      
  
  

   

 

{ +*

1, gotten cone fresh clothes and generally clean

+ c i ;
* ‘ * / f

 

sone of

. *

y | ee We-- Smillie an

’

I --> have been out on two big fazendaa,
to the Itatiaia co and the Fazenda Boa Vista

he Ms i ‘ 7 4 "

     

 
 

one belong:

 

n botonge to the VidiasPorte fastiy. 1

   

family, In the first case we

   

 

 

‘were interested in the results of treatuent which Hackett had

      

  

e 20 or 22 sonths ago, and we treated the same ¢

   
  
 
 
  
 
 
        
  
     
      

together with several ot

*

nade a great diffe

ey

 

globin, The work at Boa Vista

     

3 the present rou
Ab Ttafada we were tn a ht

 

~_— FO very well adapted te our pur

 

      

place was a cheerful bachelor 1s another t of the place —

entirely we felt free.

 

 

> come and go as we chose, The ;

 

c Pig.

     
   

 

 

fazenda were catisf

 

    

 

too strenuous,

 

 
    

    

De sey,

  
 
      
   
  
     
  
 
 
 
 

- others into having their hes

   

shalls his entire family to take treatment, Antor 0 Pe:

   

vas our man there and I wish you could have seen him shove!
the sugar and cheno;

.e brom be

 

‘ing the litt

A

obeds ouce 40 hi 8 roared ; cox

 

* °

handsome negro wife stood j

 

vhen Antonio hinsel? ran out under the |

. ¢

valiantly AL 6 cup of .

   

  

  
 

ccouphediy at the horison ae people de when euaitin
revolt, ‘

    
b

; : ey r 4

é Be

» at the Concerts Touc

 
ii ae

ay June 28th ---Itatiaia, You should have seen us yesterday, We
had a special group to be: direated to see whether our routine

treatment is effective in getting all the worms ;--which is
important when the medication bills are running into the tens
of thousands, Me in command of two slaves whisking white enam-
el affairs about the village, going from hut to hut explaining
in wretched Portuguese. whet I wanted done, Animation, Delicacy,
Gayety, And then a second time around with capsules of vile+-

 

smelling oil of chenopodium, nailing each unfortunate Brazilian
_ purgee as he stood groaning in his hut, and greeted every where

with a sort of Epeos Salt expression of the eyes and a fresh

groan of "NOsg ae Presenting the capsules and roaring
‘"Bngolhe" | t111 the victims choke them dom, Today we counted
_ the worms expelled, Average 160 per person, One man had 076,

 

but he was too anemic to be capable of any emotion on seeing

 

them, His friends however rallied well and their circle of mare .

ee } — astoni shnent was damned es They een, their
may | Sa ay xo ome OS oS”!
"By Our Lady will you look at the snakes!" ;

fT am getting to the point where I begin on my owm hook
down South, which is the first place I have eveer been in ex-

cept one or two Clearing Stations in France where I didn't

se _ know somebody who knew somebody who I knew etc,etc, Being in
3 Public Health is no sacrifice to my private stock of the same--

Ive been much out of doora,. some Gays il hours in the saddle,
Devil taking my nh neers I'm roaming up and down a perfectly

glorious country, learning administrative methods first in terns
(of Hookworm and later in terms of malaria, r nope. | Patty per
ot cent or the hemoglobins in the State of Rio are below 70%, I've
seen them down to 10/6 85 to 98 of? the rural population is
infecte@ with hookvorn, and with the good cooperation we have —

ee with
> from the Govt., & totally new strange country and the distance

from N.¥, and fleas as the only real drawbacks, you can see
an existence pretty full of opprtuni ty to keep ‘busy and away

from worrying when i shade be able to earn 7 sult, aie course

   
af I miss a.few objects of inveterate interest such @s an
occasional mad merciless dance, a rush to some show or game
an occasional (and please God well corsetted) bluee eyed
sympatica, and. the chance to see firends I'm in no hurry

to forget. But much of these chances fade with advancing
age and retreabing front-hair anyhow, so I cant mourn very
loud withbut hearing ridiculous overtones,
Junho 29th, Today we started work at 6, dark cold and
misty, quite like Remy of an early mbrning, and kept count-
ing and differentiating till about eleven when we stopped
for breakfast, As we finished a old negro sorcerer of

some 100 years ca

 

we wearily flatfooting up the road, We
had asked out of curiosity for him to come to see us, for
he is credited lecally with the power to cast.love and
destruction spells , The old fellow was awed by too many

 

Tlie. £

i A
MUA UA om

i Oi ae
AK AM LA Ohm
”

strangely dressed men, not evidently in search of his aid
seriously, and in his canninesshe said "Oh no, Signors !
If I could do such a thing as Magic it would have made me
rich", Well, as a matter of fact it has kept him alive

some 100 years here in this valley, with quite a humming
trade in curses, especially in slavery days, As our admin-
istrator on the fazenda said "If the old man’s magic were
effective all the fazendeiros would have been dead long

ago from the curses their slaves paid this old man to cast",

When you can see the heavy iron manacles rusting in the
7

t
3

barn, scarcely an object of interest as yet,+-- the manacles
that bound slaves hands and feet together in a bunch for days
at a time, in active use till 1898, you can realize we're just

out of the pretty raw stage of life here,

I got the most amusing comment on the railroad as aia
an instrument of progress and service from an o1d mullatto
wonan whose age I was trying to get trom her, "How old are
you"? "Thanks be to God Ido not know" "Have you any child~
ren?” "Oh yes", "Where are they"? "Why Signor in the old
days it Was allright and I could have answered the Signor,
but Nossa Signora! with these iron boxes running: down to
Rio so fast how in the name of God can a person know where
their family is!" tIen't that delightful !

The cildren here have & variation of our old game of
horse, in that they use a bamboo pole half broken in the
angle of the horse head to his neck, and with the nose they
tap the ground so that it makes just the noise of a single

footer---the only centleman's pace here,

 

 
 

 

 

 
 

Juhy 8th Yesterday and today I have been in Caxambu which is ae
watering place and mineral spring up in the » tack of Minas,
I am wriring much to the excitement of the local Jaca-tatus
or country boobs, on the train down to Cruzeiro, on the way
home, Hands are blue from the cold, which seems unbearable to
the Brazilians, but which is simply enough to make me shiver
a little and feel like work, It is a great mistake to think
of Brazil as a hot country exclusively--it is far from that,
> On July 2 weht down from Rezende to Rio to stay at the
Hackekt Hydricks’ for a few days, The ride up the hill Siléie ©
the Central station was a joy because the chauffeur did not
realise what a long distance it was and he sebtetnts had to
use lots of gasoline before we arrived, He was very angry
to be paid only 20$000 instead of 25$000 and we had the usual
= passionate refusals of anything at all, followed by the re-
» quests and later commands to get out _-vae embora!--this time
by Dr, Hydrick, The taxi men here always work in pairs here
one to drive and the other to ride on the front seat and argue
when you come to paying the fare, Really the essential thing
to realise in all bargains is that these ne if they can
possibly avoid it will not work steadily and conscientiously
at anything and so are forced fe Shave you for the amount
of livelihood they might have been earning since the last
- victim was stung p. : | v yi teen
The stay in Rio at the Hydrick's was very good fuHf “°°
They are a pair of young Southerners who have been down ‘awer~ :
here two years, Mrs, H. is very young and simple in tastes and
requirements, affectionately threatens to beat her husband
whenever he teases her, treats her servant girl so decently”
that said girl stays on ant is keen ‘to work for her-=+while .
Mrs, H., marvels at her luck, innocently. She is pretty’ tired? —
of Brazil and the wanderer's life, but is too young to know
ie the situation any more ‘clearly than in terms of "feeling blue",
Her husband runs the roost in all things except where her
vivid instincts result quite unconsciously in am persistence’

of attack which wears away his interest in the question to

 
 

 

 

   

be settled and he doesn't bring up the subject again, They
have .one small boy 2 éinrat afd named Pete, who has a —
amusing face, a sort of intaitile Irish prelate ofm a face,
and who talks the most delightful mixture of Portuguese
and English, He always starts a rquest in Portuguese and
then if he doesnt get his result he slides into English in
@ very canny way that speaks volumes for the casual good
nature of the maid as contrasted with the more careful
hesitation of his Pae e Mae, They make one queer mistake
with him which is not common to see nowadays, his Dad is
very short with him, insisting on a good deal more foretk
thought and care than a kiddie of 2 is capable of maintain-
ing, so that there are frequent castigations and, reference
to eather is usually followed by a sudden arrest of all
Pete's activity, cerebration and innocent cheer, and a
 coneeikatann on the question"Is He going to give me a
whipping and for why"? The end result at 17 years is not _
hard to guess---but I may be wrong. Anyhow the effect at

2 years As pitiful, but Hydrick has thin lips and is a
CAROLE NTP Int TO caring enough to see the effect on
Pete! s feelings.

On the Fourth we went to a dinner and dance at the
Central Club --held by. the Americén crowd here, and it was
really very good fun, They had the old technique of settling
bach counter into place by dancing while the waiters changed
the plates,and what with Mrs, Hydrick, Miss Williams, the tot
new and rather beautiful secretary just down from New York,
and three or four Jaca rainhas, and two or three of the
people from the good ship Hollandia, there were enough to
manage the evening very, well ,. it, still amuses me to see the ,
fascinated astonishment of the Brazilians watching the ex
Americans heving a good time, The fact that all xkhatk the, .. .. bn
moving pictures here are made in the U. S. has influenced
the standards of dress here enormously and all the try
chic things for men and women here must be at least’on the

| pattern of The Anericanos, I Pipe le that Joseph Lee or irs.

 

 
 

 

 

 

50.

Hodder will soon be out among the motion picture people tell-

ing 'em what Right Living really is ---fa the sake of their in-

fluence on the American youth, Or a solemn conclave will be held
at the R.C.C's in Sandy Cove on Our Duty towards the "Movies",
Considering how very little we are satisfied with life in the U.

 $. we do a good deal of telling others how to conduct their exist-

ences, There are niggers down here who dont have even a chance

to read somebody-else's Atlantic Monthly , who are making a happier

@ 59 years of life than---than they might if we decided they

ought to read it,

Last night I went to a soiree Brasiliera at the home of
Senorita Nair Paiva in Caxambu, The Dr, of the post took me, or
rather with endless frightfully coy loks a trembly giggling
the Senorita consented yesterday afterhoon to have us in for the
evening. The cassia were all there tamben, and it was very humor-
ous, Like us the presi inden want nothing but praise from strangers
which is tiresome after the spontaneous variety is spent. I get
my second wind though when I see how a little extra laud and flattey
willbrighten a dull eye and moisten a parched lip, and I gO on to

the limit of my words, whtch are scant but ready for an -osa or

an -0oso any time. A piano in “hea@lish condition of discord and
tincanniness was the instrument of our relaxation and enjoyment

and had it not been for a lovely big rocking-chair which gave

the appearance of rest to any thing that sat in it, I would have

blown a fuse at the noise shat a Braziliera, playing the works
can make —
of a Braziliero, ona piano Braziliero, I danced the tango with

the local beauties staring excitedly at the third button of ny

waistcoat or about that level, with all the grace that markedly

fem
unequal hang can ever extract from cacophanous music, and what
as senoritas
is more thanked effusively for the chance, which was agony to t
them too--- and for this they think me "muito simpatico" !1}
However as the proverbhere says;

Cada roda com seu fuso Every wheel to its own speed
Cada terra com seu uso, Every land to its own customs,

In a week or ten days I shall be off on my survey down sauth

and though that will make letters a little more delayed it has
advantage of being reall work on me own and in a country

cooler when all else is hot, than much of the state of Rio,

 

4

 

Peg ia

Lavrinhas, a station on the E,F.C.B.

‘ coming down from the trip to Caxambu,

 
sf

 

July 13th,

Well, Alice, your letter of June 15 arrived just on
July ith whtth is a date of great celebration in Brazil
with me because it was my birthday, You say the next one
to you should be a rval letter, wekl here's hoping,

The picture of the funny little huts I took at Sao

 

* penile where the Government runs @ big snake farm, They
ened more pesieviiedl snakes dom here in Brazil than any
wh re in the world and lots of people were killed by them
pa your, Some of the Braziliang doctors got interested
in trying to stop all these deaths and so studeid the snakes
and their poisons, They found that if you could catch a

| rattlesnake and hold on the right way yo could take
aa his poison out of hiss thror sh a hoblow needle and then
if you gave just a weeny bit of it to a horse om one day
and a weeny little bit more in a week and @ bit more in a

_ week after that,adding a little bit more everyweek to the

cmount of snake poison you stuck into the horsés skin every

time you could get the horse so used to the Snake poison
that you could give him a tremendpus dose of it and it

 

wouldnt hurt him at all, It is just the same with mosquito
bites at the Farm ~~~ they always itch more at the begin-
ing of the summer nail in date August, Well when the horse
is so strong against the snake poison that he can stand

as much venom as would have killed him at the beginning,
the doctors take a little of his bieod out of a vein in his

neck (which doesnt hurt as much as acrack with a whip), and

then they save the blood in the ice- box, When a man aren

in Brazil is bitten by a snake that he thinks is poisonous
he can get in any small towm some of the horse' S blood from

this laboratory and by injecting it under his Skin he can

be protected against the snakes poison by the horses blood,

Perhaps wee think this is a poor life for the seal but

conpared with the ordinary horsés 1

ive here it is a para
dise at Butantan the name

of the town where the snakes are

 

kept, Butantan is a suburb of sao Paulo,
hae

. They have lots of bticr’ kinds of snakes ‘of course,
The giboas up north are 50 feet long and can strangle a cow
quite easily, Their lower jaws are not attached to their
heads’ as ‘ours are, and” 80 they ‘can sallow the cow just sci
as you might pull your stoching WP over a toy cow, But
the giboa doesnt like the horns, so he coils near a re
tree ora rock and ‘then with ‘the horns stall sticking ‘out

toute He ‘as niiaes ore by the ties se po
that the horns hit it and are ction: nel and the skull is

 

 

umpled in so it will get digested better, I saw the skel-
eton of one of these snakes and it was naerly 40 feet long, ’
A friend of mine here took some piotures of some of
the Bast Indians who have settled at the West Indies where
he was working, He took a picture: of a woman ‘and it came
out so well he went and showed it to her, He had printed
the picture on Velox paper which as you know isa @ black and
white paper, The Indian woman was furious at him and tried
to stick him with her knife, because she had never seen a
snapshot before and thought thet it was a magical mirror
and that he had turned her black, Dr. Smillie and I had

 

f the same sort of thing happen to us Up in the Anterior,

2s

We were testing how good people's blood Was by pricking their

ears and seeing how red the drop of blood was on @ piece
of blotting paper, The curandiero or merlicine man there did
not like to s6ée his patients being treated by anybody else

so he told them that we were selling the blood on the blotting.

paper to the Devil, So 911 the people ran home and we had
Tt left to work with in that tow! That was only just
a few weeks EEO.

‘Ls come |

 

os In the farmers’ houses here ell the anime
in and out of the house at their own sweet will, “Me peo-
are all very polite though and when the pig tries to rub
his back against my leg they" yell “ststt" and the pig gets
&@ kicknout of doors,

‘There are lots more humming birds here than in
 

the United States, ans are , called beijo-flores | in Bragilie
which means kiee-flowers, a an going to get some stuffed
ones which you can see or have as you chose when I get home, cob
Instead of stirrups the ladies when they ride horseback
Naee put Shear feet into big brass sandals Which hang just
so you can put your foot right into them the way you would

if you. sur all the leather off your. shoe oround the heel,
And the saddles have a big silver plecethat keeps. you from
slipping forward when the horse ghes down & very steep hill,
or when he shies ‘suddenly, Por ana reason qT havent gone -
costing down my horses neck off ‘ene the ground Teter iat <n
my time will come, “Has Yours? | :

aes There isa lub of Americans here in Rio or rather it

was started by. ‘kaovheane put 4 is nostiy Brazilians now and
the name of it is the High Life Club, the Brazilians though
always call it ®h Cloob Higey Liffy ! And they always

call a streetcar a Bondie because when the streetcar line
Was first built they had to wait a long long time before |

 

the company could sell enough bonds to buy cars with andt ..
the newspe

 

pers kept sayi

 

1g thet the trouble was that the
 *bondés couldnt be settled ~--and when the cars Tinally
came everybody thought they were the bonds and ‘$0 now

 

they havent got any other name,

You had better pe glad you are not » » Brazilian little
Girle= thoug

 

n I forget youre not little any longer--= be-

cause they don't have much fun and are never allowed to |
chase aroundb at all, I am glad to know that cocoa-butter
‘5 good for mosqui te Bi heeoow I have a ‘good chance at

getting the bites but no chance of getting the butter here, 3

If you discover anything better than sabatehiing ins the
treatment of flea bites make a letter out “ |

 

..., 2 met an old old momen a while ago who | complained to
me that she did not like the FORAT AGS at all. because before
they came she used to know where her son (aged 45) was but
now with the railroads he can go away so far. that even the
neighbor | cant tell her what he is 7. to!

 

 
Last year <t this time I was in France and the Germans were
coning stronger every minute end T wished TI’ ‘was in
Anerica: this year I am in America ane the fleas are doming str
strong. Pr - every ‘minute and I‘wish I was in France},

Goodby and excuse mistakes and bad spelling.

When Brazilians have had you to their house and it comes time for

you to'go they always say"g@ood-bye and I hepe the Signor will
excuse ell my wretched mistakes™, And then you say

) wal al Aaa
“pots nao, Nada ‘signor nao tem nada verdade

“Withlove to you and ‘the rest of the

Bemi

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

we
oe
9
-“~
;
pes, %
Sepia .
j
 

J

"

‘ee. }

eee aa AVENIDA NIEMEYER (LEBLON) RIO de JANEIRO BRASIL A

 
  

Serra de Santos — E, de Sao Paulo,

 

Wapsagem na Serra de Santos — &, de, Saoo

 
July 13, Since the third I have been hereat the Hydricks
in Rio with very little to do except wait for Hackett to come
from the South and enjoy a touch of the civilised life
again, I never have seen a tom as beautiful as Rio, The day

is picturesque, the night is overwhelmingespecially from this

O90svLoOwxs

u
6
0
|
d
D
vi
m
5
6

‘e 5 ' } ? flies ee: PEt Rt ane By % ew nepeaan
you loBk dow on the Wi in the

1 Tar out to the ea “a
1ar out to the ea, EC
e r ,

 
 

stands eontinens *0 | twies: aaay a the nost ronderful

sete * have everseen ec-once a day to. be accurate. but the

   

damn is as good « as the dusk , The bay winds in anong a

long succession of mountains, the air is filled with a

 

purple and golden haze, the long. stretches of quiet. bay
water shine green-blue in the twilight---well, I cant do
At anyk longer , it ie the most beautiful Place T have

 

ever seen, And then the million lights begin + twinkle

and the moon rises between two steep rocks at the Snprance |

to the NALD ss seeesees dots meaning gewalt, Ir cant stand

tt no longer,

Met a Mrs, Nash yesterday at the International, who

is down here ot & pleasure and business trip with her

 

husband, and who is a classic dancer at home in New York,
Her husband is very amusing and ee ee company, He

a

has been up in Ilheos looking over & Cacao plantation —

  

we ent has been gone 8 weeks, during. which time She wat ted

Se a ne

 

_ for him nervously h here, He had malaria and was afraid to

 

 

call in a local doctor for fear he would say it was
yellow fever and intern him, He was up there with his
step ati & Miss Ryan and: finally they got from Mrs

_ Nash a desperate. telegram ashing where they were and when
they were coming down to Ria Rio, His Sehegran back was
"Keep your tail on the dashboara Ulysses and Circe coming
by the first boat," And the only person Lars Nash could
show the telegram to for sympathy was a Suits who was
just learning English!

 

~ Pete, the Hy@ricks kid is —

   
 

I have ever séen, He is
keen for everything and is
most satisfactory to play

with, He calls me shan-
shan and he talke a won-
derful blend of Portuguese
“\y
> &

e

 

 

and English---"olha! Bichos!
Olha Aqui! Look!” and ne
certainly misses very few Sr
tricks, He goes to bed with
no protests, usually he
announces that he is ready
for it "Queir cama, mamae"
and he hac the other re-
markable virtue of not cry-
ing when he falls dow+-«
they do the sume thing on

these occasions that Jack

 

and Hope Richardsén used to Big Chickens

in not consoling thekiad very often for his hardluck, The
noonday nap he 4s not so ready to take though, and two
days aes when he was told to vae na cama he came back ait
with “onde sta cama"? (wrens te the bed?" - :
The watch on the Rhine here certainly has a Swiss
movement---everybody is at least a Swiss here now and the
number of Danes and Swedes who know German is certainly large .
ast night on the bonde coming down from the Hotel I saw
@ most affectionate and Brazilian fatewell to a family that
was getting on the bonde--- the affect of the numerous adeus
and passa bems was sort of spoiled by one ef the little kids
who bawled out to his father "Wo geht's Mutter?"
3 The weather is glorious and I am very lazy, I want
to get off a few letters to all my young friends before I
go Southe-- for I imagine that once the work begins I shant
have much time for that sort of thing, I keep in the best of
health and everything goes muito bom, Got thirteen letters

for me biethday and what more do ye want at this distance!
 

 
July 20th ,
This is another Sunday in Rio and at the Hydricks, and

I feel much as if it were on leave because I know that

not far ahead now comes work,

The past week has gone in small errands, in seeing the new
office established and in playing about a bit with a few
people here in a very small way,but pleasantly as a contrast
to the rather marked lack of folks at the fazenda existence,
Last Monday we went up Pao dAssucar, the huge rock at the
mouth of the harbor, which shoots up so abruptly that an
aerial cable is the only way to get up to it, It is 400 metres
up off the sea and one of the most remarkable places I have
ever seen for the view of the harbor and the mountains at the.
West , We saw the sunset sky fade out quickly from orange
to red embers and from dull smoky red to violet and then
to night, while the lights along
Copacabana came out twinkling
along a graceful, curved shore,
Then in an hour the sky in
the east grew red and the:
full moon floated up over
one of the islands out at
sea and the moonlight bee
gan, You must learn to par-
don all this deseription---
it is almost impossible to
think of doing anything dowm
here in Rio without thinking .

 

how beafitiful it is, +--every-
where,

Hydrick told me an amusing thing about Elavo, the diener ©
at Sao Pakulo, Dr Darling has made out some tables of figures
comparing infant mertality with the amount of income, Elavo
who is @ wonderfully funny looking coon, very usefull but
terrified of Darling looked at the tables with Closest atte
aN.

 

 

ention, He has been trying to get his courage uP for ox
months to the point of asking for a raise in sale
ary to help out with his new whi te wife of whom he
is very proud, He came to Smillie ana said "How is

‘a man going to raise a child if that table is true?
'z00 milreis most of the chbldren die, 75 milreis

411 the children die'---and he wont give me more

than 70 milreis!# How is that baby of mine going

to get along in this hygiene job!"
There was a neat little skit ink the news

paper yesterday about the fact that Wilson has a

‘appointed a Commission to study the causes of race

hatred in Poland, which is doing so much to keep
the nation from a state of admirable unity, It went
on to say that already the world was the beneficiary —

re of two American millionaires: Carnegie who in 1913

had done so much to promote the worlds Peace, and
Rockefeller whose efforts are meeting with a more
- favorable reception, How can Poland show its afprec- —

4ation for this considerate interest from the Uni-

- ted Sgates? Perhaps the most delicate way would be

to appoint a Commission to go to the United States
to study why the Negroes there were not given their
civic rights and allowed to attain their ambitions
to be regarded as the equals of the whited, and why

the Japs were not getting along 80 _— wel on
the Pacific Coast, :

Incidentally the position il negroes here
and in the North is so nearly that of the whites
that if I were Jim I would look into the feasibi-
lity of teaching Portuguese to the boys at Hampton
They could come down here as representatives of
firms in the U,8, and enjoy & type of life and
climate much more’ to their tastes than anywhere
at home, And complete equality wi th the whites, —
-_ aay
«Just abit of tbme tonight to write an additiomal note
or two in time to get into the mail onto the Byron on the

26th,
Today I have been out to Jacarapagua with Dr, Alvez

taking some pictures of septic tanks which he is forcing

 

the peopie there to install,
They make a good-deal of trou-
ble at first but about the time
the tanks are done thex owners
begin th show signs of prbdde
and swell up with pleasure when
you tell them the thing is very we
well built.
: It was a hot day up there and I
tc” shall notice the excess sunlight
unless I get some glasses to keep

out the glare, The heat as heat is .

 

not excessive though and surely it
would surprise some of the well in-
formed in the Benighted States to
know that Americans are actually
using hot water bottles at night, Here in Rio that is,

I am going to be delayed a little longer in getting to
work in the Sauth, because Dr, Placido Barbosa has taken 2
job as head of the health service in Piauhy and this means

that instead of having a man who can talk English going
down with me I will be alone with the Portuguese language
and heppy days those will be!
Well best of luck and thanks especially for the Lan-

poon which is going the rounds of the Harvard colony here

with a great relish,
July 27th finds me still in Rio buying frying ppns, soap,and

mosquito netting, keeping desperately strict account of all
that goes out of the purse and planning to leave for the South

in three days time collecting the personnel of my survey as

I g°, That means three other new men plus my guarda chefe or
sergeant, so to speak, whom I have already chosen, This being
the last fling I shall have at the English tongue for a while
I have been going to parties a bit and otherwise eating such
hunks of butter as will have to serve in memory to go with the
plain fare to come, I was about to say the Loaf to come but

that would give an unfair idea of what it will prove to be,

for the securing of so much information in three months time
on & limite@ budget and from a crowd of men that will loaf on

the job on the least pretext will use most of the time and

brains the Lord. gave me, @xfhz Of the country I shall see I
know very little except that the life is very primitive and
largely in the saddle, no towns and not much civilization,

 

more hookworm than anything else-+---but of that more when
I am there, )

I do not know how auch it means but the animals here
are all suspicious of man, If you say"hello ket"! to a cat
nearby it ia cnoughee-she cowers and runs, And if you reach
out to stroke a horses gead he rears in apprehension of & blow,

I wonder sometimes that the people do not suspect us more,

88 did a man tother day in the offic., "What 4s thia commiss-
ion of docters anyway"? he said to our factotem, Then all the

pride of Alfredo ‘nigh patriotic labors of the Brazilians in
the Commissao and | Ls prbde in being in it came out and he

told the man how the health of the Brazilians was being bene-
fiteg etc, ete, all ‘for not

said the men after Alf

 

ng , and at no expense, "now"

 

 

jo had finished, "tell me the real

if they are tilt giving Hi story 17 a course in ‘the

“history of the middle west especially, or better of the country

in terms of western settlement and westward @xpension, take it
if Turner is still giving it, Take courses for the nen
not for the subject, I used to think that was the foolest
advice I ever heard,for how was anyone to know anything
with so hodge-podge a preparation? But unless you know
much more than merely the profession or business you are
going into you will get nore for your time from seeing
enthusiastic thoroughness and genius at close range on
some subject you may not immediately calling your job
for life, than it 1s to wade through book after bogk
under some teacher who has no other advantage over you
than that of a headstart in time, A poor sentence fo:
the English of it but the idea is good,

I am finishing this in Sao Paulo where I an fine
ishing the preparations for my dash into the wilds: buy-
ing all sorts of stuff in the way of household furnishings
etc for many a time and oft we shall be provider only with
2 shack and will have to have everything else"found" with
us, It will be the real thing in the line of excitement
and I will be as great a variety for the natives as they

are for me,

As soon as £ get something more than the clean-

Lliness of Sao Paulo to write about I will ,

 
a

Rg sig ane ag R,R,
Auguet the third

Well I am in the sleeping car of this funny little railroad and

Opposite sits & young German talking the lingo with loud gutte

erals with another o/ his sort--- the first long conversations

I have heard since the time when I was interpreter at C, C. S,
45 near Doullens, Gosh less than a ye ar ag,0}

With Joao Miragaya, Jose Machado, and Deodoro Silveira
I g° south to Parena to make an inspection of that neck of the
woods, It will last about three months probably and wild
take me round into all sorts of places, some far from the R,R,
and a good many On the same, The men are my guardas and md =
crospopists and it was very good fun picking them out, It is
my first real whack out @lone since I can remeber and 4t cere
tainly is very good fun, I have kissed goodbye to the old
language I used to be so fond of » to wit English ond an
hereafter committed to a mixture of Portuguese and Bosch which |
will be amusing I am sure, Gosh you'd be amused to see all
these things we pass: men in long flowing shawls and all shades
and races of them too, I am getting a new point of view on
this business of being a foreigner, It may seem funny to see
&@ Dane out here on a lonely fazenda here in Brazil; 4t did to

_ me when I first, saw one blue eyed and towering out in the wilds

but when I came ti think it over I realized that it would not
have seemed queer to see him in pndannne- reid liontana is —

just as much of a c ange for him as Brazil is_ hh from his nat~

 

ive Denmark, It had always seemed n tural for them to come to
us in America, but it seemed very odd to have one turn up in
Brazil! Do yu get the new point of view? S etx Moe

Ther are a lot of interesting people to be met with x

down here, Last, night I went to dinner at the Robert's house

in Sao Paulo, He is a hee kindly he. Peat papannen enctne

 

eon.
Sa as
ee

Westerner trom ‘ane WEST ‘eee Pe 7 Toned and. ne ania
make Mrs Parkman shudder and Malcolm Peabody feel awfully
Christlike and forgiving, but who has a very good head

on her and a very clear mind as well to dealk with all

the things that come up when your husband is gone. some-
times @ year at a time in the woods of Brazil---and believe
me that is a plenty, He is a very good sort and has dene

a lot of surveying work for the railroads---so much life

in the wilds has meant to him the common price dow here
which he has just learned but really does not realise I
think-- the ulcer de Barru or Button of India a disease
which begins as a sore on the leg and ends pretty horribly.
in a long deferred death which no one at home knows enouch
about to make home going worth while, for the treat ment of
4t, As the preceding sugcests the writing was stopped for the
urgent reason of getting some sleep and I continue in an
appallingly and palatially stuffy room in the Hotel John-
scher in Curityba,where Frieda has just been biitted to
naken eine bad fur the herrschaft and things are much as
before Chicken Wheeler announced at the home-coming party she
pad given her in 1014 that there was a war on in Europe,
Gosh I remember that day well! Up in Ipswich, Eve bbe,

We rode all today through high: rolling cool erasse
covered country, with valleys lined with pines of the local varie
variety, which in effect are Like giant candelabra
and very handsome too, Instead of dry gullies as the average
superficial winding depressions would have been in
Coloroado they all had beautiful clear streams of water

flowing on shallow channels in the living rock which un-

 

derlies so closely the surface of the soil, The rock was
pinkish and full of potholes, called here calderao
‘which are all the way from @ soap dish to a barrel in
size and shape and were bright green in the sunlight
with all the clear water in them, A strange effect as of
- tourmalines strung irregularly. But the air was fresh and
cool and in the unforrested sweeps of hills I had all
the reason in the world to imagine ny self well horth
 

—s
A

 

in twenty af

of the Equator and going into Wyoming or Montana instead of

Parana( which is pronounced with the ax accent on the last

syllable), The red dust rose in clouds when the train was

going in the line of the wind and poured in over every thing —

and everybody, but every hour or two we'd come to a lonely
little staion where we ali piled out and swalhowed a small ns
cup of very black and very fragrant coffee and I deckded

NO on the question of doces or the local idea of what sweetes
should be, The engine would wander down the track & bit to

the woodpile and some huskies ould throw big sticks up onto
the coalcar till the thing looked twice the size of the engine

and then we'd go on, When I got to the station I heard "DOATOR

 

VER GRREGY !"B being called so stepped out to see
the Brazilian with whom and through whom all my plans aust

get their accomplishment and found a beautiful smooth article

in a cutaway coat,on the black and white line, white pallid
skin ond black hair eyes and mustache, black tie and gloves,
and all smiles and temporary graciousness, a Hervey Wetzel
of a man with pretence in place of reserve, end slopover in
place of girlishness, I expect to be very simpatico but Re
rather disgusted with him as time goes on, But he is nearly

my contemporary and that will be fun, for the chance I have

to make a ewift and effective survey is godd, if this fellow
is to use ‘the old and honorable idion, HANDLED RIGHT,

s

ten shoud here the churches here on Sunday . A man gets
up in the belfry with & hammer and proceeds to tune up on the
three bells they always have thus: Dee, dee, dee! dec-dee-dee~
deewdee, Dum, dun, dum! dun-dum-dum-dum-dumedum, Dang, dang,
dang! bang-dang-dang-dang-dang-dang. Deedum, deedun, deedumaty
deedum, ete, till it sounds like a ragtime syncopation,
except that ate hopelessly loud even for that, It keeps up
for ten minutes this syncopation from the belfry and ae toeine

nutes all over again,

 

Ba) tom humorously is now to be my official hone

ne

 
you know, the sort of a place like Chestnut Hill,
convenient place to refer to when ushering at a
wedding or when trying to think of some one place on
God's green earth where they could send a bill and have itn
have it not marked :95 =:92:(fig instead of cap)
NOT KNOWN and returned to the sender, Well in case
anybody wants to know where I was raised or where
my home is or anything, tell ‘em I'm a Curgtyba boy
a 4 wont heap of ever having lived in Marlborough
street and that home is home and that’s that!
Good luck on those Giant Slides if as the
paper says the First Division gets home on the 15th
of August, God knows I'd like to be with you but
would amend that to read ‘like you to be with me '
and send the minutes of the meeting thus amended to be read i

read in the upper house,

‘te logo

 
*

te ees a
‘woleg th.

Imagine @ huge well built flour mill built at
, the water's edge along a narrow poe land that separates
big fantastic tree covered mountaine from a warm,lazy, de-
serted inlet of the sea, ahuge mill whose gate opens acte

ually on the wild matto or bush, showing no sign of extend+
its influence beyond the royal palm which waves peacefully
at the mill gate to the wild palms on the hillside two hue
dred yards away, A big boat from the Argentine nestles age
ainst a steel pier while through & Long pipe its load of
wheat is sucked by @ vacuum machine , $0 tons an hour, into
the mill. A little red faced Englishman is manager, --- and
“ to the place is doctor, policeman judge and footeball pro-
motor to 500 Brazilians, Italians, and Spaniards, living all
yi | alone but for a setter and a great dane, in a fine little
_ ehacara up on the hill, and boasting that next Christmas he
will see his England again, A nice simple little fellow who
has been out so long that he talks English with lapses into
Brazilian-- he told me today ruefully that he had had a

 

monkey and two deer, but that when one of the deer and the
monkey were killed by. rattlers he was so disanimated ( des=
animado = ‘discouraged in Portuguese) that he had tried to
keep any more than his dogs, Outside the mi11 the hogs go
.. | in happy processions up and down the streets and under the
houses and life. rells.on in what. would be but for the disease
a fairly happy and self-determined squalor, We arrived yesq_
terday and in the evening gave a magic lantern show to 40 or
50 of the village and today we have been examining about 30
for hookworm (only two were negative) and. tomorrow we shall
treat these and examine probablyloo more, if Brazilian
habits are anything to rely on, I have 4 very decent, Brasil«
fan doctor and four trained assistants with me and fj am
spending the next three months. coasting around the state of
Parane, oe settled as yet, but cooler Ahan, Fie. and

   

+ 5h ide iit Ml MRT De RT) yd fae Be. ic die ie ; ad DP is as sp : eek. oR aan SR ‘ c i i ‘ * ae q ‘
SRN aid is i ian ele Sg . ey EMSS pe de ts ae a ay eae Remi eI a rs ea TSW as ST ; Gye, ahh Ny ee neaara Aen, VERE AE ph. eciee SC oS ae ae arm ere Reem tt cae
 

 

in its wild poor half- settled condition a wonderfully in-

‘terestin

 

Gj Place to be turned loose with a book of railroad
passes and ones om wishes as the sole points to be cone
sidered in the great and Inaressing lyme ing, auep tion of
where next, Of course it is well to admit that you are a
bit exaggerating, I do have to go to the places that need
to -be examined for hookworm and that runs the choice of
places -- but necessity frequently means more variety in|
places than choice, as anyone who has fallen off a cliff
will be ready to admit, and so there is some consolation
to the fact that where the hookworm there hook ar;
It is great sport learning Portuguese now, When

you can understand everything or quasi tudo ( there's a
chance for you) it is encouraging bvei'¥e listen in on
everything, and night before last when I had the first
dream wherein Portuguese was spoken: and enjoyed by all
you can bet it set me up for a day, Tonight they told me
the classical Brazilian stories of intoxication and if
Vite bet like mentioning rain to a sensitive Saharan ?
fhe latch-key saga here varies only in that the man is
found waving key in air at ugderate distance from house
and when asked for why he does it replies that he .
waiting for the house to come along again just alittle
bit nearer, Anothér of a sort new to me was of ‘a querulous
plaintive welleducated man who said at a certain stage in
the evening "But I dont gee why Gallileo got so much crede

A funny thing happened to one of the doctors down

 

it for his discovery!¥

here @ while ago, He was smoking and happened to blow a
Little otded iat of his mouth and then to inhale it een

  

his nose, A pazit’ n n gawped at the sight and said immed-=

lately and in wll . riousness "?ruly you Americans are

marvellous ly ebthonbat You even use the tobacco snoke Se
twice!” They watch us all the time and attend the movies
not infesultory twos iit threes but inpressing crowds —

all the afternoon houseful after houseful,

 
Tonight walking down to Itapema-em-baixo I Stopped by the
Side of a pool and in the half- moonlight was able to see
without in the least disturbing what I have never been
able to see without being considered as de trop, the
evening social life of frogs, I dont mind saying that
they appeal to me tremendously on the epic side ofe their
existence, They are an immeasurably old form of life,
and consequently either much favored or else very perfectly
fitted to the task of existence, and when you consider how
many strange forms of organisms they have outlived, marsh
forms long Since fossilized, the ariving resonance of the
evenings puddle of frogs ,and its ringing mellow continuous
ness is impressive, A very simple very perfect answer to the
forever puzzling riddle of what will the morrow bring and
how can we keep going? They are killed by drought and by
any ingress of too mash eer fle yet in the delicate
in between they' tees - so ge outlived the rest of us by mill+~
ions of years, Frogs and pigeons--I'm fond of pigeons, but
they have none of the Jack London antiquity about them that

frog has, You see it is early early Spring here now,

We are very far from the wer here, I am picking by a

of Brazil now and. because I inde to like German,

iT am eemer ine on and with muitos tratimentos para
fazer amanha

   

 

hea Westy

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*

It being August the 10th today I naturally awoke
in tears to think of how much older we are all getting, mere
particularly yourself, and. then to of how small a chance I
run of getting anyone to take you a birthday present to you
in time from here in Itapema, which though it is on the
same water as North Haven is a bit difficult now that servants
cost so, I keep my servants -- and I have four here «- ail
busy at the job of finding out how much of this queer little
place has Hookworm, Out of 197 thusfar we have found 4 who
havent Hookworm I say some fellers have all the Luck dont they?
Yesterday with a hemoglobin book
in my pocket and a guarda (male
nurse) to do the difficult talke
ing I started out on some house
to house investigation which
yielded me about 60 cases and
was the most interesting and
amusing, work you can think of,
The natives can barely read,
live in the simplest sort of

traditional existence and with

oe?

oe Peres Bie ay ogee ot
SWar ti Ly fad

Feo

4 . ; ta ‘2% Wy a me ‘ oe
c4u8, earrings, large

 

of

ep ee. straw hats, wooden bowls for
‘the evenings grain, doublestringed bows called bod ques
with which they throw stones and. kill evenings roast as
he sings in the tree, figas or little carved hands to keep
off the evél eye, old mUugZle-loading flint locks or cap
rifles ----and the very latest ideas in the treatment of
their Hookworm provided with much amusement and pleasure
and satisfaction by yours truly,

This is my first stop in the survey of a large and
Spareely settled state called Parana in the south of Brazil,
where I make it immediately clear I heap all the clothes
of Meassachhsetts and N eH, On the top of the bed of a night
~e- briefly Gaspar, I aint in the tropics by an overcoat

and two pairs of undées,
 

 

| Parana is cold aistincply 80
and at present we are in the
warmest part, Dont share the
opinion of the Benighted
States in general that Brazil
is a fine country place filled
with many handsome boaconstrict-
ors -» to ugce a phrase dear

to the heart of any Andoverian,
and youre one in point of fact,
There are as fine huge rolling
-hilis here in Parana, as fine

pine forests as ever I saw in

 

the U,8,---- but here only

a begxinning at settlement and still a map that reads
in big blank spaces ‘terra incognita’, At Guarapuava

we shall be in 4 place 80 miles from the railroad or
more and with more Indians and Gaboclos to treat than
any thing else, Imagine the English ranch up in Matto
Groeso 330 miles on-one side and $00 miles on the other
where a troop of horsemen simply ride in every once

in &@ while and round up 4s many as they want and then
ride out again! And that is going on nowe- when frontier
life was supposed to be dead,

Agter I finish this survey herein Parana I shall
go South to the next State Santa Catherina and do the
same thing there, All this lasting till about February
of 1921, 7 find it bully fun but -at times set homesick
for friends and the sound of English spoken, Letters too
have the same high value that you nikht suspect them of
possessing and thanks a lot for your description of the
reunion of the class of 1911, It is diverting but not
‘flattering to my intetligence to thimk of they way I used
%O agbnize to myself about the class reunions having a
goed spirit ete All that work over appearances! I should

have loved to have seen some of ‘em curse Carlie Hann
YY

>

:
:

Planning their tomorrows work as

‘The funny thing to me is that they

little sawed off Prazilian who you

under their breaths, or to have merely seen the Bish ! My God what
a charming thing dt is to marry young and never have anything hap-
pen to you! Missing street-cars, going to "Little dinners", being.
pung upp on the damned telephone all day, and wiping noses of
little snipes people ingratiatingly say poo like you----- well
I am going to do. it sometime but it wont be. (a) Now (b) in Brazil,
The chief difficulty I find in this job is in the abrupt
change from trying to like what I get after 411 is over, to trying
to anticipate exactly what I want and then getting it or making
other people set xk it for me, It is the change of existence from
one of landing various jobs which were considered as good and then
trying to fill them decently, to an existence quite without any
criterion or precedent, where the ideas and the necessities must
all come from me and be passed on energetically enough to make

& go of things, As a matter of fun it is immense--- I sit up here

if I was the Lord, or perhaps

Chas Storey on the Peace Commission
in Paris, something pretty big any-
how, and before I know it I cant

think of anything more to be done,

say "Sim, Signor" (whieh sounds
more like ‘Seashoré') and then they
go and do it and come back with ree
sults miles ahead of what I thought
they could have secured,

I had a diveting time seeing
th president of this State when I was

in Curityba, He was a rotten looking

 

can see any day consuming toothpicks ; and Whispering and grunting
in front of Gity Hall and he was in deep conversation with the

chief of State Police and a heeler, but he: gave mé a very polite
interview and I got a book of passes for the Survey off him, so
I cant complain, But POLITICS | as the saying goes here among tS

A an
aie tee. og
The Aisiiok ieeais "Heli, Seneny would be put in the Kindergarten

class in Brazil", And really that is true, The mayor

of Antonina does nothing profitable but Duy and sell
sovernment concessicns , $30,000, is about right for

& small concession! And éveryone knows it,
However you can apply the local proverbd locally,

"Service de crianes e pouce A child’s work is small
_ Mas, quem depressa e louco" ‘Who hurries it is a fool

‘To which yesterday the microscopist Miragaya remarked

at almoco (lunch) "five um parent qui ‘morreu por causa

 

a'isso" (I had a parent who died for that reason)

CS We all eat dinner in the RESTAURANT DPAREMA
oe which is run by a big
‘cheerful Itelian who
thought I was Rockefeller's
Son and tried to charge us
double prices, So I had

te set aside half & morne
ing and go and talk to him
which Was very amusing and
excellent practice for mm
for I am coming to like
dickering and palayras de

negocios,

 

Let me recommend the’ Srasiiiien day for work, You get
up at 6to 7 ahve hot coffee and bread Only, Then you
wrk ti11 11 when you have almoco, Then $411 2 when
you have more coffee simplis, and then at 5 or 5:30
jantar or the big meal and the last one, The evening
that begins at 6 and lasts till 12 can contain work —
in pretty fair quantities, :

Well best of luck Alec The empty spaces
in the text are for photographs to come later, for

. ay films aust 20 to Rio to be done decently,

 

 

ay best to Eleanor and the rest of the fami-

 

 

 

 
 

Will begin .a stream of people to be exanined, and in ‘three

Lapa Agust 14 1919

I am out in the garden at a house we've just
been given here, writing on an old wooden grinding eit
turned upside down while my guardas are out in the high-
ways and byways inviting the gusts, metaphorically speaking
to. the feast which we hold tonight in the local cinema
to instruct. the local Jeca-tatu ( the Brazilian for hayseeds)
a5 to the meaning and purpose of the Rockefea' Foondaish —
in Brazil, There will be a crowd and when all is over with
the speeches,and I'll back my Brazilian doctor Doutor Ree
migio against all comers in the art‘of Portuguese oratory,

when he 1s all through, we give out the little tin latinhas

 
  
 

and go home with the first days work done, Barly tomorrow

days we ought,.to have 400 or more examined, and as soon a
I get 500 to 600 I an Seing to beat it for Rio Negro, the
next stop, oS

Lapa is on a high flat table-land and it is good
and cold here now, down around freezing at night, But ther'e
is & pleasant little orange tree out in front of me as I
Write so what do I care] It has a curious parasite this

tree, a thin green cord without form al beginning nor end-

ing, which clings to éhe lower pirt or the smaller branches

and winds its way out to the extremity in the most meaning
less and structureless Way. In the barn walks the prize
gsamecock of, the neighborhood, redeleseed and me: nlooking,
and the urubus, eveat ugly carrion vultures who are the
only permanent and reliable public health officers encour-
aged here fly awkwa rdaly about and
quarrel over roosts and food, They ‘
are more vindictive ih their quarrel _
ing than most,,other birds, for
I notice that when one has ob-—

viously vanquished the, other |

sie

.-
a
.

ay

 
 

he flies after. him for some time, with a sort of
follow-up system, The people encourage the urubus
== that is they have a law against killing ‘them

-T which is more of an exemption from oritict sm

 

than ‘the other public health officers are likely

 
  
  

enjoy for sometine yer, Dr Darling has made it

 

fairly clear that they are not
| true public health agents,
because they fill the role aren
“all too frequently of
carriers of anthrax, and -

| probably act as carriers

| tor some of the animal paras-
ites, They ndiePetiy Stayt
@uite a@ part in the local
“folk-lore: the urubu who went
to. Nowsa Signora's feast in

| Heaven carried in his violin

= a turtle who hid in it because
fly . When they got to the party the

 

    

 Urubu discovered the turtle and was very angry at his
‘aeaaal pretensions--so he threw hin out, But Nossa
‘Signora took pity on him and though his fal broke
him in a thousanc pieces, She gathered them together
and gave them life---- and that is why you gee a

turtle's back made up of so many pieces,

ope 4s humourous to’ see how these poor men
‘putter from the éold aha even: here amusing 4d? abe the
awe with which they regaré my sleeping out on these
nights that leave frost on my ‘trench-coat as it lies
over me out in this nice little yaard, under the. orange
tree, This town is about 2500 feet up and this clear.
early spring weather 4s much the same as September in
the Adirondacks, The village doesnt awaken until nea ’

ly 8 o'clock, Then come the men with their palas or

     
 

big tasseled woolen ponchos, shivering _ unhappy.

 
 

Da Go oe shady side ve the street is  uite deserted ink vy is a

ee full two hours before the sun has made things confortal
ble, We are ‘finding & low rate of infection here,

: ee which nakes the work ‘of the microscopists more wearing

and which holde us down On the number of treatments,

I am afraia that the number s gathered in wont reach

500 &s soon as T thought, but I have learned that you

cannot ignite people here with ideas that will take

7 A : Eee ee

in three haurs or colt with any effectiveness under

 

 

 

ae 24 to 48 hours,
a Thereis a cinema here
ce ‘which has inherited a ~
“sd pianola from somewhere
“ue . and last night while I
Z| stayed here going over
- the Itapema records I
heard one of the Kktz
‘Lizt Rhapsodie Hongroise
set winding out into
the brilliant moonlight

in the garden here,"Thence" —
to quote quote an illust-

rious predecessor, "to bea"

 

ie 3 under a new bunch of stars

to stare at till insistent

| incoherent remarks began to crowd into my hearing amd
I saw and talked to a few Americans whom I did not

sce yesterday in the funny little tow of Lapa,

wy I have been having to dinner an interesting old

 

party of 68<-an Eng; s1ishman of the ke wild and wander-
sort-- who nas spent the last 50 years of his life in
Parana, and speaks Portuguese, French and German with
the same speed that he talks Cockney, He is the station~
agent here ne fine old pink and white specimen whose

race now serves to retain the superiority that his age

   
has need of, He is rather an

 

 

 

 

amazing old bird but for gen-
eral purposes the experiences

fell on Peather uncritical

 

| and unobservant senses, so
that he is not the mine of
storgies and anecfotes that
B ola Buddha Waddell at the

merican college in Sao

Paulo can be, But he has ab
old French Bible that dates

  
  

from the time of Good Queen
Bess, handed down in his fan-
iiy as an heirloom, which I am
going to see tonight when Re-
Migio and I go dow to take matte with hin, He agrees
with me that no¢hing has done so much to civilize the
people here as the American Cinema@ee- he gays that their
manners of greeting eachother , and of all social bee
haviour are now modelled on the RAbits observed in crowde
ed houses every other Sunday. Of course that will put a
finish on lots of interesting customs here--- I've al-
ways maintained that love making, must be more and more
standardized and unoriginal ag the Youth of the land
attend the Movies, In fact if I were @ girl of spirit
and experience 'twould be an interesting game to place
them all in whatever school they most closely aped-<=
those ‘young friends of mine, But to get back: t@ Brazil
whe movies says my friend Sgnr, Tamplin,— is notably

sivilized in the past ten years by ty, th meow,

While r pick off the hoar-frost from my cot in.

the morning those who had a tear their eye at my

coming suffering from the tropic heat, are drawing 106°

without fresh air in their homes in the North,

Happy days !

 
 

 

 

 
 
 

 

Now that I am fairly well into the job here and beginning
to know from firet hand experience what things are like here in
‘Brazil it is easier to ao what has for some time been my intention

 

and write to JOU. 4
At the moment: 7 have been assigned the job of investigaing the
ex ‘tent. of Hookworm. infection in the southern part of Brazil, first —
in the State of parana and later in Sta, Catherina, both regions
quite coo] and comfortable thusfar and not. at all like the gen-
eral. impression or Brasil which involves whi te plaster houses
cocoa plantations and epare revolutions p.r,n, The survey of this
State began on the 4th of August, when with & Brazilian doctor
LWO trained male-nurses and two microscopists well versed in the
local parasitology, I started out a wandering region-to-region
existence which will keep on tal. I finish in Sta,Catherina in |

 

— Our procedure is this; we have: our beds and skeeto-nesting ,
our kitchen utensils, three Bausch and Lomb'scopes, a special
centrifuge, «bout ten thousand capsules and enough oil of chen-
opodium to f411 them as required, and a good deal more miscellane
eous material 211 ready and in trunks, We choose @ series of ree
gions to be visited and white the aid: of a pass-book and much”
pebbeuka, we get to & tou, ‘The Lown prefect 12 overhelmed with
pride at being Visited( often mixed with suspicion ane & certain
arch "oheyes-but you-wontefind-hookwormehere" Gxpression) and we
are installed in the local city hall, That night the Brazilian —
doctor gives & talic in the local cinema with our lantern slides '
greatly aiding hin in explaining | hat uncinarioge is, and at the
end of the Service we male not & collection ak but a distri bution

of small tin cans for the specimens of fecca, The next day the
stream begins and I stay in the laboratory exanining the spleens

and the hemoglobins and seeing that things dont go galley-weat
ane keeping an eye open for whaterer interesting Way turn, up in
the way of elinical pathology, 1 The places chosen have been all
_ been small and fairly typical of this part of the country,
Though At sounds like rather a limited field of interest 1
proves to be any thing but that, for I am expected to get a
fair idea of the general prevention fo rural diseases which
nus could be applied--and ‘thus mosqui to-hunts, visiting

and talking with the local, H,D,(when the piiies sported one) _
and making notes on uedi cine lngeneral here has been part of
_ the program, Naturally there is abun ,

 

co ant interest on the
s a sides of lite other than uedical, and now ‘that my et ,
egun to come through with regularity ‘tho ugh well spaced

ana in big batches, I find this life very profitable in

   

 

_ every way, Hot that Brezil Will be my Swelling place for
good, No, not that by any means, but t am getting ample

 

“experience: on ‘the side of ‘and strative p
that is what I pame for, | - oy
fhe curandheiro, or whzard-nedicine-nan here occupies
and widely recognized
“ are they that ag yet the medical profession is unable to.

 

 

Pr en tatenesiing: position, So powerfu

 

a deal with’ then, for they frequently have political ‘gativehoe:
3ra.aiel Tammany would have

 

me A as is frecuently remerked, in
to start in the Kindergarten class, Among the caboclos: or
peasants . of ‘the forest,T know of a curandheire who makes
the prognosis ef all severe coughs as follows: é fish sbout
“the size of a sucker is caught and theb pationt 1s instructed
to spit in the living fishes. mouth; the fish is then throw
sk into the water and if he swims menrenn the patient wad

live if down the patient will die, And it is woll recog zed
that

 

if an wouan in Labor wi change shirts with her husband
each wearing the other's inside out, she aitting with his wa
hat ~ in the center ofa ‘twenty-litre: mea sure, she" give Te aNd
tells. light tothe chile" as the phrase goes, much more successfully,
A jung doctorpout in the natte, #614 me that after a nine
league ride the sight of such a thing nearly coupensstes tor
the trouble, |
No one can exag
ee in Brazil, For _— little | ne

 

gerave the effect of the Anerican cinema
wnat it comes once & week

 
mar

with ronarkable success, and now is recel ir ng

 

serving as the sole put a curiously effective contact with the outer >

contemporaneous world of which they see nothing else, In the last
ten years dress and all the habits of social greeting have changed

 

ai asked in the same breath if I know Dr Carrel personally

and if I happen to know Tom Mg or Dustin Farnum, or Mary Pickford,
They look on the American Aray as its fondest jingoistic admirerx
would not drean of dolage= they think the Eatados Unidos are anway®
worth wotching, vith admir ation ready to flow, like the saliva of
Pawlow's & dogs--hefore it ie Justified, Some day the date of the first
noving picture will ° 2 given place with outtenburgs work ag & factor

in education,

Ther is one place here where work of the very best p sort

is being done and that it the Institute at B ut ax ntan, where Dr Vital

 

 Brezil has worked out serums for ‘the polsonous: snakes of Brazil

 

very satisfactory —
I 8 would interest you,
or if you have any friends who would Like a full report of the —

public support, If the full details of thie

 

‘ techni que I could send ; gladly a ‘eopy of he: report of the process
in French, y

The work of the Commi ssi.on here has resulted. in an increasel
interest on the part of the Government in vari, ous. problens of
public administration of s

 

nt tation, « now their reports are pubs
lished along side of ours every month in the newspapers, Mr Morgan

the U.S, Anbassador says that the Oe ideKoned is the only Anerican

 

f organi zation hntat has not as. yet gotten iato trouble in E Brazil!

TN ews ‘Maps we will have & chance to continue our 19,000 treatments
& month for a little while longer !

I an writs ag this on a erasy” Li ttre piver boat: on. the Te~

 

vassu river trying to take 800 sacks of herva natte up a shellow
and tortuous stream from Sao Matheus where we have just finished

a survey, to Poarte Amazonas and later Ponta Grossa » where perhaps

 

I shall find some mail from the States--a thing that is like roast

beef and. EU mush-rooms to a hungry wan, Lord, A delicacy !

Now that ae know the general outlines of what I am doing

  

you @ line with less of formal deserip-

  

‘ et ch ped RM Pe t eri ae SRR:
IRAE A NAT coe eet Enea poe sieht py ames
ase A ie Rs Ty aN RRR 5 28 oS NRA eS Soin RR Re had oa Chae ee Dy ae
tion and more of what is going on from day to day under the
sky that sports the Southern Cress, the Centaur and a
Moon that rises and sets witha brilliance and a speed
that makes me forgive the theatre for all its dash
and vigor inthis parkoulery:
Wi ti the very best of remembrances anid I think
from all I know now of Brazilian postofiices, vlis

very best of Christmases

 

ees
.
Yee
° a
.
a ‘

 

‘In Campo de Tenente

 

Polak Family in Sao Matheus

 

Qa *
4

te
eh

\

t*

/
A oy a, NEN Sa ai f “
Ws: eg eS ‘
Byaii® wt owl Oe Ta et eae de ¢ i
Pr
+

whole village ‘selaeaing reverent:

 

 

3 Ania the thousands of letters with a more
familiar postmark than this one I thought you' 'd be amused

— have some mail from @ young Brazilian friend, He opens

with a politeness characteristic of the country and hopes
the
that, hurried departure from U.S. battleship without saying
goodbye to lady whe made stay in Rio more pleasant than other-

wise would have been, wai be AS excused as it was justified,

“gust got to train in time to have a, ‘five-milreis “squabble with

the porter--- and that is as late as you can economically be

to a train, here no Brazil, —

. Today was a scream, Ne asked the Prefect of Lapa to

give us a horse to ge out to the colony outside town, He came

across with a swell barouche ram by four serawmy but unquest-

Lonably spirited er piel | . bays, with thousands of sleigh

bells everywhere about theme-- and ners almoco with the

 

y a guarda and I set to the

colony about six miles out of tow, The road was the sort. that

keeps you apologising for innocent violence the whole time,

end when we arrived T was glad to Look - ariver in the eye
and memori s¢ what that sort of a driver is apt to look ‘like,
He kept clving the horsee the right of self-determination
and the fore pair never lookea at a crosseroads in the sane

way that the hind pair dide-- I jumped: out and had to hold the

municipal barouche from going over the edge of a hill, be-

cause the driver couldn ’ & get enough unanimd ty i the tean —
at the last | minute ,.
fhe colonists are Italians, really splendid looking
peasants but they have had nothing much better to copy than
the local customs, and the result is a little sad, The

main room of the kitchen is nearly always a mud floor around

an ppen fire built on a raised platform---no suggestion of

a chimney, The entire colony of forty or more houses has been

tuilt without any sawed wood at all and the effect of the

a A

oo

 
 

 

 

    

constant thick smoke on these huge slabs of the x

rough wood makes really a& very handsoue though dirty

house interior, I dont think that in one afternoon A.

haveever seen so many iednaly faces as teday<« ‘they

were all so cheerful and pleasent and agreeable, ‘and

told us all their troubles in the sinpeees and cherr=

fullest way, We would examine the whole family fron the

Pat on down to the pequeno, all of them tall pink-cheeke

ed Italians and smiling and Lauching the whole tine, a
This is. the country for you. High rolling hills,

no life that is not on horseback, Frost on my bed in

the morning, to the horror of my crew who think that

to sleep out under a fine little orange tree on a cold

starlit night is the heigzht off insanity, Verdade it is

cold here, I have had to buy a local comforter which |

makes a geod bedding roll even 4f it is lavender on the

outside, Yesterday Shey had & horserace out near the

    

- -gherch and it is a very picturesque costune, the long
fine woolen penche that the horsemen wear here, The
"horses are «ood toogs-= ‘in fact this 4s no more like
the rest of what 2” ve seen than Wontana or New Mexico
is like Palm Beach, It is a country of pine trees and
“a cool fresh skies and I like it, There is about

$ infection here in Lapae--so I expect I shall never
see this tow again.

_ Much obliged for the forwarding of all the

sturt; my address will continue to be Caixa 295 while
out in the interior of this bon libtle séate, whose

cpaital is my home--and if ever a word deserved " "

marks that word home is the word sint it?

 
'
’
ye
=

 
 

 

 

 
 

eget S ‘
Serrd sa
é

 

T senior for it as he wished the Church in the. dapitol to

 

es i August 19° |
To-night I have been dom at the Station Agent's, Mr to —
Tamplin's house, first talking at some lenght with his
Brazilian wife about the habits and customs here in
this country and later going over Tamplins siter-in law
to find a full blown Tb, process in her right upper
lobe, They were rather amazed at the fulness of the —
examination, which was good fun merely for the en
“@t recalled,

The women here nurse their children up to sect $r0o

years of age; seldom leaving off before the third month

‘and it is very rare to find a case of undernourishment

among the infants, In cages where they wish to wean the

‘baby en early start is made by squeezing beans up and

cramming them intouthe kids mouth adnost from the start

and going on ‘to & erued wade of fleur or mi ihe which’ is

I think & rough native flour, It is admitted that this”

As hard for _ baby but at is practiced Phd losophteadiy<*
and souie seem to survive, | ,

- famplin's father was a feather merchant in England
who lost through 411lhealth a successful business in Lon=
don, He happened to «o the Brazilian consulate in London
when he was hard pressed for a new chance and seeing there
the siteiane postera of life in tlie “colonies of Brazil, he
sold the family plate and all put a fine harmonium bought
at the Paris exposition in 1853, which he brought to
Curityba for his wife to have in the new land, The Pres
ident of the Province of Parana then he saw it was so keen

to have it that he offered 100 pounds on the spot to Mr

possess the first Harmonium ever seen or heard $s the Pro-#.
vince, But lire T felt so badly to lose it that her husband
refused to sell it. This. angerd the President 60 mich that
when with endless trials they. finally got to the colony

in the matte near Serre Azul they found that the Local

     
 

   

head of the Colony there had orders to send that Ingleze
Pamplin into the matte itself, So Tauplin, his wife who
had had in London most of the ordinary luxuries,and five
children, were dragged up into the bush to a plce where
the only clearing was around their hut, and where they
used sheets and old opera-cloaks to keep out the rain
and where Tamplin’ mother's bed was a pile of banana —
| leaves, and thier only food beans and cane sugar! lr T.
"ated there of heart disease and Tamplin worked in the
wash. for eight years till he was twenty four, At that
time his mother happened | to have made some sketches of
Seleeets and especially butterflies, which she sent as

@ mere keepeake to the British consul in Rio whorn she

had a debt of gratitude to, A Brazilian official happen

ta to see these and in his aAntration for then arranged

_ that she be brought out of the matte to Curityba to do

- la set for the Govermment; that ia the only way that the

family ever saw the light of day again, He told ue this

looking in an odd way at his hands and saying from tine

 

to time" What they have seen!" Which is probably true.
an Tonight I heard the frogs that ery like babies
and of course I went way out of my road to rescue the |
kids that were lost, Such a funny noise, for to eo
coming from a aiteh full of nothing but frogs,

We are off to Campos de Tenense tomorrow, where
I suppose Remigio is saying " Mas eu digo com freangueza" “n=
of this leaving, I ao not tnt the Brazilian Line is

paricularly true: aa "’

Quem inventou /a partida
Nao sabei @a”“Anor

Que parte parte chorando
Quemfica morre: de dor.

Bernas Voveier

 Qutw ge Mist pa
Nav’ paber dee ai
Que pate pate plraus

icf perder 0 Prear

 

 
yey

(Eng,) numerous Christian Science: is

Here it is the very end of August and I have finished the
inspection of two more towns, Campo de Tenente and Rio Negro .
with but little to show for it all in the way of letters to
the North,

Campo de Tenente was 4n informal little place, largely
German, and devoted to a box factory of Snr, Henrique Stahlke —
and consisting of lovely flat topped pinhto trees stuck
casually about some scattered houses, with geese and endless
mule trains and stray horses drifting through the lanes, There
were also sone cedars of a new sort-- the most lovely I have
evere seen, because the cdld touches their tips with a deep
purply red, and only the depths of the foliage is green, the
rest is all a gentle mixture of the softest reds and brows
and greens ,Sprics of this are geing North if it can be done,

- One evening as ‘I was trying to do accounts I heard a
most unpleasant humming noise-- just the noise _— a year
ago used to mean Fritz coming te the Hospital. fer a raid,

Just the same noise---- I was astonished and started out to

see what in the world it was, There wasnt any firing of course

and it suddenly came to me that it was only the sawemill of

Snr, Stahlke --instead of the Mercedes of Herr Stahlke! Gosh
that's a bit of a change for one year's time,

We left Campo on the 27th having examined 375 people
in five days end finding 144 of them with hookworm, Twas 4
bon little tow and Stahlke was very helpful and. jovial----
but I am sorry to say I cant fall for sll of the German
joviality as yet,

But when we got into the train I found Dr Araujo with

a suite case nearly full of magazines and some letters tambem

and here it is that my letter really begins for I have been so

-leng on the trail that I'd almost forgotten what other people

were aware of my existence--having May as the last date to -
go by, I was simply delighted and mail does look good you
know, at times, I had Scientific Americans, and The Nation

 

onitors ( the best paper —

   

 

 
 

 

Pa

1 most ways that I know) sme copies of Science and some

(edical journels and as & finale Sytem and Poetry (separate

agazines if you understand me rightly), Perfectly happy,

pened & typewritten letter first out of curiosity and

was rewarded to find that it was yours, and was dc lighted to
learn that the Trotter book had not gone wide ne the arkew«
I'd agree that the conclusions are too anxiously drawm,I—
think no book by an intelligent man should be sotten aku out
without a simple statement of what he'd like to believe on

the subject at hand as a preface --" Where the treasure is

- there is the heart also",

I ahve the system of reading ( I really never did
: i
anything systematically in my life except toothbrushing)
one newspaper each evening; to make things last and to give

a sense of progress to the week, But I cant be so selfcontrolled

‘on letters and ‘whacked ‘em all open'at once, including one I

shouldnt have opened to one of my. men from his Brazilian ene

amorada, and before I knew it Tf Was well into the heart of a

very hearty Porusuese sonnete-- and I couldnt think who in the

world in the U.S, knew me and Portuguese well enough to be
writings such a load! ~

It is a curious thing isn't it how quickly you can
fal out of one existence into another? Already here I begin to
feel that so much has happened to make a big distance even
bigger that-I am not writing to people because it seems
somehow necessary to give an introduction to a sudden one
slaught delivered from so strange a place as Brazil,
Please advise ( as they say in commercial circles ) me if
you get bored by tribute from a wild and distant state--
and at times from a wild and distant aitte of mind ---
you are the only person I have seen yet who can maintain
a mental EXISTENCE without soing in for absurd generalities
and theories whose purity 1s stifled by their falseness
and their deadly boredom, Not 4 light sentence--- but the
idea is that I dont find many who can ¢@ endure a good Christ-

“fan and 7. feel She” yee charm eee W th the di-

i ane OH lene Cae pink [* Ove

 

 

 
verting buncombe of Greenwich Village, (which I'a defend to
any Ladies Home Journal mind with more loyalty than hope of
success), Perhaps a queer petition this --but I had nearly
theught you hull down over the horizon until your Letter cane,
I'll burbdle on and the Brazilians and Burleson will get

half «--dont curse lir Burleson, like the cornet soloist he
nay be doing the best he can,

I enclose an interesting description of a man, You
dont find many like that---and frequently the few that do
exist fail recognition in either sense of the word, There
ore not many things more 211 outdoors than such absence of
Gant and inherited prejudices; I know of nothing nore desir«
able in friends or acquaintances, I think I will get me the

book, pes
I have ‘much chance to wear out prejudice here in Brae
ail, but there come times when the longing for mine om and
all that that means, comes very strong, They have a different
set of values here, Promptiess, energy, cooperation, imperson-
al kindness, lsinterested gentility especially toward women,
prodigality of effort and insistence on efficient methods, —
silent nike self-effacing service, spontaneity of wit or origin
ality of mind find less value here than at home, Here more
"“homenagem" goes to tribe loyalty, ability to express verbally
friendship, felicitations, tribe good-will, and amityorith
aestring , and to the recognition of natural beauty, and the
maintainance of undisciplined personalk identity and self-re-
spect, More perfume and jewels among the men, I have made no
railroad journeys without an escort to and from the station, ©
Slapping a mn in rage is an insufferable insult to his dignity,
And I have seen three crew men rush to the window to exclaim
"Que bonita! Ah Doutor como linda essa sabiaf" at the sight
of a gray ereen robin in the orange tree, The men are the
only ones to have anything approaching intellectual indepéend-
ence and - this,friends, To the women I think life must be
very dreary--- their faces have a powdered stoliaity that

   
 

is not a very high tribute to their men, I have often.
wondered why the husbands of beautiful women, instead —
of being the objects of shallow praise for having

made such a catch, are not more often complimented for
the beauty or spirit of their wives long after the catch
Wes catched, As it seems that would be a rare thing in
Brazil, : :

I am now in the funniest little boat you ever saw
being stared at by some rustics to whom this is an extra=
ordinary scene, We are going down to Sao Matheus, the _
boat ordinarily takes loads of matte up from down river,
and the green powder lies all ower the deck, I shall have
the most interesting time--- birds I have never seen be-~
fore and types of scenery soe, & fourteen hours trip for |
#200 with jerked beef and the local beans to eat, A dirty
looking place to be sure but we shall simply fit out our
camp beds where the matte is usually and have really a de-
lightfully cool and pleasant night of it, It ie very hot
now, but this part of Brazil gets cool by night and the
Christian Science Moni ten hag just provided me with a
map of the Southern Heavens which the pleasant clear
“weather will make good fun to study I had a lot of fun.
on the boat aown; in the Tropics you get & "close-up"
on them all and the stars are even more worth while than
ever, a

I wish the pictures that are stored in my camera
euld accompany but Rio de Janeiro is the nearest place
for decent developsent and that takes about a month from
here, The answer is ma mate tarde which is local for later
on owe 2 frequent expression of the human spirit as it
has its being here, It is not fair to say lives and moves
and has its beinge---it cant do all thatk in one day: mais
tarde,
Good Luck and cheerio

A. G, |

P.S. % am not & Mgocial worker. no ne + ree
Z “ ; " pene

    

 

 
Lattnight we had a big party here «= a baile of which thet
invitation runs .
E <MO, SRR.
A commisseo abaixo assignada convida V,S¢ Exma, familia

 

para assisterem ao baile que se realisara na noite de sabbado
6 do corrente, nos saloes do Club "IDEAL", offerccido aos dig-
nos noivos Snr Gilberto de Paula Leal e Senhorita Elvira Polati _
em regos jioso de seu enlace matrimonial, '
Dr Paulo Foretes ‘pedro @ des Santos
Theophilo Sabbag — Jose Portes
| Jose A, Wolff
No dia seguinte havera baile infantil das 4 horas em diante,
The Commissao Rokafel1' was invited and it was certainly worth
going to, They had a band like nothing on earth and the room of
the clooby was filled with beautiful and fearful looking mocas
who when I arrived were walking, round and round with a fella
supporting them : making sert or a grand circle an the cemter
of the roome--because ae I found out it was a social error to sit
Gow with a moga ( the local for young lady)especially in the
chair absolutely next-to her! They have a system that should be
copied everywheree-«you walk round and round until you finda
seat and then you leave here-just leave her that's a11!

I had an amusing time, They de

 

nee the onestep here ale

ready but they dance it at& arms lenghh and the sensation of dance
ing anything is lost, More like eymuasiueexerchses:whersiyou try _
to follow the instructor cverytime he moves--but youre always — :
a little bit late, “In the middle of the festivitbkes suddenly a
youth stepped forward and began to talk in a loud voice to the
bridegroom who wae standing rigid and miserable under the gaze of
alle-. the saudacoes was a fearfully flowery affair in Portuguese
of the orators school, all about how splendid an idea marriage

Was and how we are indebted to our direct forefathers the Romans
for all that 4t means to us and ending up with the iieoadl good
wishes very heavily expressed, The sort of thing you did when

  
 

at seventeen your bosom friend got married and you

 

to write a serious letter adequate to the situation,
I am & bit disanimated to-day---low in the mind to be
toss Braziliane-- because we stayed on to treat the Poles
after they had come out from church, adnoni shed cud advised
by the Padre, but any about seventy have come, Two hundred
is what we wanted, and we never would be wasting these three
days if we had known that theyre only g0ing to’ ysera thi s
_ tiny crop, This morning up till 12 o*clock I was a surgeon —
working with Dr Paulo Fortes over a little Polish lad ‘whose
? right fibiidaand tibia received a compound fracture 20 days
ago out in the matte, We made ® window splint and got some
traction fairly well applied after an inferminable time —

spent in cleaning the wound up--Dr P,F, lad let the thing

 

drift on from bad to worse, He had nothing ‘prepared and no.
idea of what was going to happen next) There was ao little
surgeons plaster left in tom that now that they have just
_told me the traction has come off I am net surprised-- but
‘here what the dévil to do next, When the last ten inches
has one by the boardegas? Luckily the little boy is not in:
ony pain, Gosh what. a lot of work there is for anyone who
wants primarily to practice medicine and surgery and seconde
arily to belong to! & Club, raise a family and stick to the
standards that he has quietiy absorbed aii his life as the ~~
thing to do, city life ete etc,
There are some interesting fo:ms of leaves and flowers
here, a tree that has @ hearteshaped center quite black with
white wood around it, call smak coracdo de preto.or negroes

heart, Here is a leaf I got on the Iguassu coiling dow here,

 

Ive had no dinner and hence my spirit is not strong for alt
litrachoor but clieery 0h -<as the Tommies letters used te | ct

finish,

  
The next night I rode out to the fazenda of Major Infante
Viera on a pully horse he provited for me and spending the

night there started treatments early the next morning begin-

     
   
   
 

f ing with this famihy, whose son and
¥ heir is 16 and his sister 6, That

}

) | shows what H* can do, The entire

p colony of workers had hookworn,

 

it was our first group of 100% es-
| tablished infection, and I used up
Ji all my chenopodium treating then,

= |
| After the treaments were over I wens

 

- over the estate with the Major and
I have never seen coffee as fertile
and promising lboking,
ESF we ™ — His opinions of Americans were |
that they talked and bluffed a good deal -but their chief virtue
Was that when they made up their mind to have sbmethimg they
stuck to it until they got it. I was interested to dee in his
bed room library "A Forca de Vontade" by Samuel Smiles,
Saturday and Sunday went in treatments and in routine |

wormcounts in the pouring rain, so that by Monday I was

more thah ready to get out, Again we had a pouring rain, so
we put off going at 10 o'clock exactly to favor the driver

of the trolg, Characteristically enough he called up about
two to say that he couldnt go that day for the price agreed
upon but would only be able to go for 20 mil more, I went
right up to his barn and took his name down in a notebook

for éffect, and, being theroughly fed up with such behaviour
indulged what Cannon calls " 10 minutes fury" with him be-
cause he wouldnt understand our cold northern scorn, He came
bacy to his original price but if it had rained heavily be-
fore it was nothing to what began just as we were leaving

the hotel in an uncovered buckboard, The road out of the
town of Jacarezinho was nothing but a mill-race of red mud
on a very steep hill and of course the nigh mule upon being ~
unmercifully beaten kicked the harness into ribbons and lay. in ~
the slippery mud and water while my banker friend told me it
was impossible to get out to the R.R. that day, and was arranging
to have his luggage left by the roadside and return to the hotel,
After we got the mule up. Ape to the top of the Bill he changed
his mind and we finished by Teta in Ourinhos much ahead of
time and very wet indaeea, but glad of the chance to get the train
the next morning at 3:40,

All that next day and the day dexieeias was on the train.

and finally when we got to Curityba I was delighted tp find a
lot of letters and to see all my stuff in the trunks I had left
tows in August 4 just as they were left. It was nice too to talk
a bit of English to a Scetchman named Machattie, at the Lemdon
and River Plate Bank, When he introduced me to the manager I
forgot what to sayin English and started " Muito prazer de con-
hecel-o" quite naturally---which made me feel ridiculous, as he
looked rather askance.

The next day I started on a flying trip to Serro Azul
put on arriving at Rio Branco found a thirty or forty. kilometer
journey in a doubtful diligencia and no satisfactory assurance
of copperation from the Prefeito, whom I met, so we returned
to Curxgtyba and the second day after that we went down to Par-
anagua and caught the boat for this next field of labor, the
State of Santa Catherina. The boat served to remind me what a
packwoodsy sort of life I have been up to recently and I waa.
filled with SAUDADES of the U.5, and my trip dom to RIO,
Saudades means a cross between memories of a pleasant and close
sort.and homesickness and is a word the Brazilians are wery

jealous of-- they say there is no translation for it,

sili spilt se At NW nd tet de de wm ad 8 * a5 \ 4 Law BARD ; > Pw sac ee iis
 

In many ways this Sao Mattheus is the most interesting place

we wane seen yet, The trip dow the river was by night and

finished by day in a rain that was too heavy to allow taking \
pictures, At night we sate-- my Italian guarda and I out in
the prow of the boat watching the winding black river over
hung with moss-laden trees down which we slid and sidled,
He has a pleasnt tenor voice and gladly sang whole pages

of his favorite opera to me --Pagliacchki, interrupted
occassionally by the boat crashing into the bank on a badly
steered curve, Once we stopped for wood which the caboclos
with streaming cunny-sackg ever their heads carried down
from a tiny clearing in the dense matto, And once for three |
sacks of oranges which. three ruffians brought to the boats —

- edgefrom more perfectly black matto, With earrings and red
scarfs overn their heads, rough beards animal eyes and a
large facao or bowie knife stuck in their belts they were
worth siting up for, Then we went to bed--- the center
of the boat was free from its ordinary load of matte and.
twas easy to set up our nice clean American camping beds and
sleep under netting in peace and uninterrupted isolation,

Sao Mattheus proved to pe a wild backwoods tom cut out of

the matte; the Prefeito did not seemaz very excited to see us
but let us have the Car

 

ara Municipal without more adieu and
said that he would arrange a nan‘ito:eone ona. transport the:
beds and equipment from the wharf to the Camara, After waiting
twe hours in the rain I began to fume and we got a man on’ our
own hook who hauled the stuff for'us, © >>

I sent Bonini and Miragaya out to a store and to the poste
office with microscopes and some’ specimens. that. showed active

and convincing worms and again the next day similar propaganda

but with but little result, Visits to the Polish colonies .
were: very discouraging too, because the people seemed to be
- very suspicious and we were getting almost no-one to examine,

Most of the Poles thoughk though there has been a colony here
for 27 years cannot yet speak Portuguese and naturally ied

       

 
 

 

 

made it hard ~--Deodoro Silveira came back furious
that there should be people in Brazil so long and
yet not inéw the’ linda lingua "the beautiful

 

language of Portuguese, —

" ‘The night of the second day we had our cone
ferneia and 130 were there at first curious, then
dumbe founded and incredulous and at last keen for
an an examination, Poor devils they have never had an
_ thing from the hahd of strangers” that did not cost

something in the end and natuzally zx they dont see
. why an American millionario should be doing any.
such thing, I am tempted to tell them that he is
doing it as a matter of penance, which would make it
all instantly comprehensible to them «-- and I wone
der how far I'd be off,

Not ti11 today aid I discover why they have
been so slow here, The Poles have circulated a rim
rumor that I am a representative of the American Army —
that there is coing to be another war in the U.S, and
that& we are getting the names and ages of possible

conscriptge--taking the names of the women and chil-

 

dren is only a blind to fool people with, We went
to the Padre who rules with a vod of irone=- he will
anday that they

 

instruct them Lomerrow which is Sv
are to be examined and in the conferncia after church —
I am going to get a Pole tw explain to all the people
what we are doing, I was interested to have the POlish
teacher say "Why the Rockefeller Commission was in
Poland too during the war!" which was the job Reggie
Foster did after his fiancee shot herself and he’
couldnt stick it in America any longer, His work is
helping me,)) &

Of what happens at church I'll teil you later

    

 

 

 
 

 

  

Published for the information oF all ranks

(4) METHOD OF RENDERING LABOR EASY AND RAPID.
Homen takes off his shirt, vhen —— begin, aulher takes
th will turn their rts inside o
a Ry bg and put them on, Mulher will then sit,Znwith
xchanged shirt on, in @ meiascleara (20 Mitre tub 5 with —
hat of homen on back ofr head, : |

(2) METHOD O} PROGNO™ ‘1S IN 3 VERE COUGHS :

Cétch a mayu (fish ten inches long) and axa. near the nie ons,
ae Will spit in fishes mouth a good sized . quantity, Fish will
be innediately replaced in happier surro’ dings, if Sa ohne
up strean petient will live, ae oe 98 os gr 7

(3) Kee ‘FOR PARACHS , cee
Patient will eer one bottle of want’ ‘012. ‘into. a ‘wteve chicke

en Soup end then swallow, following ee, with, three
grains of incense inan pesee, apete,

(4) CURB OF MENINGITIS wines WIE G A (iebboi ceive“
Gateh rabbit, ki1 and wht 1e warn nels @ peneroun ca para tony

    

 

 

   

 

 

to fit head of pétient, Jam-dewn over the ears tig ntly; sel-
a in feiis 1f it really | wag ees es
(5) TO EXTRACT PRACENTA oe

Cut cord and apply to the inside of rigne ‘diet Place a abtpper
sole outwarde over cord and tie with red ribbon,

Dear Tom;
i hope you can use some one of these soon as they

represent the very best. of the medical practice an 320 Matheus and

-vicind ty and I opent much time and etrenghh in acairing them, It
“was a& lovely little

 

 

hamlet in the very heart of this herve growing
wilds, and now I am seated in @ OFA little river steamer trying
. our best to get up a very shallow river and looking. forward with
quasi=mi li tary resignation to opending | tie. days . to get 40 niles,
The boat is filled with huge sacks of matte, a bunch of curious
half breeds and a Brazilian fauily of 6 vhich seons to follow.
the machine gun principle, no time lest between Manes S, ond every
Vara ety, of trunk or bag that the world tae sedan,

. Your letter was grend-- a review of cverything at the
hospital that I wanted to know about, as well, ac the important
information as to the establishment of the Maison ‘Goethals, to

th visiting of which I look forward with the greatest pleasure,

I read it along wit bh one or two others on the way to Rio Negro,

This cane of Anspection is certainly damned. good fun,
I can peak ‘the e Mince now enough.

 

“fe go and interview _ Proteato

wt “ ¥ :
Se ii Fae 8
Rte hia iy a | ee ~
* eee ye eee pe ee ae ¥ ‘ ees ; q

   
 

ad the @nstant variety of country, of people, and of prevalent
diseases is cert inly interesting,
An engineer was doing’ #0 me work near Sao HMatheus a while

ago, The nahives heard tin’ eaiiea "docter" and before Long
an anxious sabeclo was at the door begging hin to give him a
prescription for rendering childbirth easy, He told the man
he was an ehsindes not @ medico but that was one degreebe~
yond the cabocieo's euiariihei ia aes and as an excuse 1% did nothe
ing toward removing the man from the door, So, being a wan of
resources he s#4a he had no remedy with him but he could wets
give a very good oracao or prayer which she could wear around
her neck as is the custom with oracaos,- But when he came to —
look for paper he found nothing but & receipted bill ror a mule —
«nao faz mal--+ he wrapt it up and it was borne away carefully
by the pleased native, Well, the labor went beautifully, and for
two years the oracao went from neck to neck, and when it finally
wore out it was taken to a medico for him to rearrange it for
a, career of further usefulness, Nor can the caboclos yet under}
stand why he was a littie peeved as he gave it hack eeu the
omer insisted on having it, and no blooming ergot or pituitrin,

A Letter from Smillie tells me that a tray from me to
you and Mary is on “the way to the Masg,Gen,Hosp, God knows I +
do hope it arrives and that it is in good shape on arrival,

When I get to Ponta Grossa I will read your letter again
and if there is anyhting to answer I will write separately, end
~eain anyhow soon, My regards to Hink, What is the news I von

‘ Pete Scholl?

  
 

 

tT

     
  
 
 
  
 

In

- - ‘ % a CPR OS = oo) :
7S. 40”) Se ee

a

Es c
= 7
oe ae

a ‘

 

pa

 

eae es : a Mk

ALL norning out in a patel palais on the edge of
matteo or forest. which for densi ty has no equal, getting off the
horse and clapping hands, fa & Signal that you'd like to be ine |
vited oe ceremoniously shaking hands with a frightened and en-
barrassed peasant and his wife while the kids rush into the

bush and hide, taking hemoglobin and examining spleens, and.

urging them to come to the laboratory, looking over the saints
of Poland massed in regiments over the walls while the parents
catch their children. and drag them in weeping. or grinning. with
embarrassment, Looking at the quesr system ‘they have for drying
and grinding their matte-- the tea they export here-- and’ then

_ Fetuming to the tiny Camara iumicipal or City Hall where ny

cot bed adorns the back porch and the worhties of Brazilian
history gaze absent mindedly from antique and rotten portraits
upon two Bausch and Lomb microscopes and two of. ay microscopists
a work finding what the rate of infection is here in Sao Matheus
~e- that's what September fifth finds me at, in a tiny settles |
ment reached once & week by & river boat on. the Iguassu river
state of Parana, southern Brazil, |

Tonight we have a baile or ball, held in. noaage to the
excellentissima bride of Snr Gilberto de Paula Be itenee
si jo de seu enlace matrimonial (in rejoicement of their enlaging
matrinonially) whieh I look. forward $0 #8 with great. JOT, for we
are Anyi ted, to the first ball this place has ever blom itself
to and if Brazilians are. good at anything it ia in. screamingly
useless cermonials and celebrations all held with a solemnity
that — beyond my fondest dreams of what is funny, Right now
the bend is shambling by* horns, rusty and useless looking, some
of the men in sandles others with high leather boots, some with
black kerchiefs and. patent American collar buttons, others gall-
ing against celluloid affairs , but aid delightfully serhous and
without embarrassment, bound for the house of hte bride where

they will play in hellish discord till jantar (evening vse

 

 

 

 
 

and then later at the baile,

s
i
es

I am floating round this etat® of parana wish te”
in. the south of Brazil and about seven times the size
of Belgium finding out in an inspection whether and
where the Commission can do the most effective work,
“Some places have an iisdetiii of 80 ts 90 % with
hookwormy others much less, ‘put this is good direct
work in‘ = interesting part of the country and
when I can keep the aceounts of the sax other five

men stright an more or less content,

 

I like to see occasional |

 

sli she speaking people
like Mr Jobbins-- a sailor who landed because he ‘over
“heard the Cap$ain say to the First Mate that he was |
coing to imprison all the crew until the beer that
had @isappearcd on the way out from Hamburg to Rio
was accounted for, This fonty three years ago, when
Signor Jobbins slid over-board in Rio harbor and
escaped -»- to the Heart of Parana where he has stayed
ever since, Jobbins presents me With a cuia to drink |
matte from saying "I opes you will acsate 4t,sir”
“= nbs English esigaute with the’ ee aa
meaning to accept, _
The Poles knit red thread around used electric oe é
light globes and use them for decoations in their |
houses, Hides of animals like otters for example
are five mil-rbbs or about a dollar, All the medical Sv, es
side of life is fearfully primitive of course, But ne Oe : ”
the animals and oo and trees and I imagine
the flawers that are Lo come s0on=- all these are
tremendously interesting and doubly interesting be=
cause really nothing is ag yet know ‘ef them, If t
etop this wandering life I shail try to fit up a 1
little lab and get to work on the essentials of
some of thesex forms of existence,
Not that I am going to spend my days in Brazil
“ow -Ehve my best-te the SSE: F dogger hath Harrington ,

   

§3 Mail yh Oss ‘ ea ‘ 4 EAE ee
 

  

 

Dear Mrs. Rice; _ 2%

/ Whenever I mount a festive or even a docile steed
 § think of you and all your ‘family, So this morning when the
time came for me to get i board and go out to the Péhish col-
ony here I found myself wondering agaain how everything is at
Turner B Hill and thinking that I would like to write and find

out perhaps in time for Christmas, This is not & reflection on

you as @ correspondent! It is just the way things happen here,
I am very far from civilization here, it is just on the edge

of untouched trees and unmapped country, where the evenings di-
versions are the experiences of those present with the various)

queer animals and the numerous poisonous snakes that are two to

three leagues away, It is still the time of Daniel Boone here
for you see pare-footed men out in the matto with a powder, horn
and a flint lock rifle getting the evening meal from @ tree or

a bush, All the. aninals are new;. tatu, paca, eachoeira do matto

lonta etc and the ‘scenery. ae fascinating especially as spring

is just begkining,

The name of ‘the place is Sao Matheus; its raison |
d'etre is the trade in atte, A tiny town quite helpless if the
river is too low for the funny little boats that bring the
weakly mail fron Curi ty be

 

, our capital here in Parana, If the
river Iguassu gets too low from Lack of rains wee have nothing
for it but PATIENCIA ( which is their virtue and. their vice
here in Brazil),

Here in this state of Parane, whieh is about the

sise of seven Belgiums lumped togehter and poorly explored,

I am making, a survey to see if there is ‘enough Hookworm to

nake work on a Large scale worth while for the Commi ssion,
I have under me and ever with me a Brazilian docter and four

trained mi croscopists, and with whom I as

 

going all over the
state examining the people and getting atatistics of the a
amount of infection, It is identically the . same wandering life

that was in France the charm and the curse of existence in

Field Hospitals, but with a number of easily surmised advant:

    

*

 

 
 

 

4

 

' stimulus ‘to similar goverment undert

For me it is proving to be what I wanted-- very g00d administra-

tive experience together with a large amount of advent-"

ure sights sounds and ‘forms of food that T have never —

seen before, to say nothing of the extraordinary in-

terest on the medical side,

ssion here”

 

“The end result of the work of the Commi

“4s the cure of eight to ten thousand persons per tionth *

for the whole of the e@untry and a very interesting |

ae { eat th ys : 4 ‘
dent

  

nerican

 

of our direction, Largely assisted by
moving pictures, and ‘having part of ite origin in the ©
politisal necessities of Brazil as regards the Argene ©

tine there is here a great deal of interest in and

. enthusiasm for the United States, As long-ad ‘we keep
out of Mexico this will keep on growing--that 1s what -

the oldest American residents pray for the ‘most, but >
they watch our relations vith Mexi¢o with a hewks ‘eye.

as ao the Brazilians for when we adopt the part of .
 chastiser they have no effective weapon execpt hatred

NO eae distrust.

out in the colony, we have run into some > aafficulty
iin ak getting the Poles ‘te come ‘for examination, “the ‘teh
rumor has gone around that really I am an officer in the |

Anerican aray and that I am here getting the nanes and
ages and physiea] condition of possible fubure conseripts

for a war we are eping to have in the United States soon!
The examinations of ‘the wonen and the iT usend a or aie

dren are only to hide the: real purpose of the mbesion,

 

An experience like another we naa where the local wizard

told the people that the arops ‘of, blood we ‘took to exane

ine we were selling to the Devil aN enough profit to

make us fabulously wealthy, We had no’ more chance in that
village--- the people hia in their houses. Mad we left,

Sut tomorrow the Padre will explain | what’ we are== ‘and ~

 

 
 

ae
aa

hope for, two hundred after church, Ther is no question but that

the opportunity’ to help people is a favor which they confer
upon you; that free hospitals owe thanks to their patients
and that even passing rage at those who refus® assistance
i868 in this light utter stupidity, Perhaps medical training blinds
the doctor to this, But it is a fact and when it is recognized
Public Health will take a big leap forward,

Forgive this heavy philosophising, I should perhaps
be telling you of the more interesting things heres of the
night I went well out of my way to rescue a lost child who
wae erying in # diteh by a hill traile--only to find it
was a jubilant frog singing in the mud crying just like @ child,
Or of a bird that sings in flocks one sitting on a branch in
front of the rest and setting the time by swinging his body

| @rchestra birds they call them, Of royal palms, of the labor-

atory where Brazilian doctors have worked out effective
cerums for all the poisonous snakes in Brazhl except one,
of the enormous vogue that lotteries have here, and of all the
thousamd things that seem odd to me, But these I will
leave until [ can learn everything at first hand or perhaps
better till I can tell a few to you in that delightful breakfast
room at your house, |

I am getting a little bit firmer on horseback and
hope that you will see some progress next time I get a
chance to slide aown to Ipswich, My very best to you all

and a Merry Christmas!

AS ever

 

piicae 5: ie lamba i th a 2 ot
 

 

 

 

 

A flour mill in the Polish colo
ny in Sao Matheus, made from a single

log cut in two and the two opposing
surfaces filled with steel nails,

 

 

 

r Pinienwald am Rio Preto.

Pn Pinhal no Rio Preto.

Streitiges Gebiet zwischen St. Catharina und Parana.
Zona contestada entre St. Catharina e Parana.

 

 
Sept IY

 

It is a cold evening in Imbebetuva, Estado do Parana, and
I am sitting in the kitchen of an unrented unfurnished
house with the bright 36 candle power light which we carry
about us making the oLeling whiter, the door greener and
the fhoor redder than they are by the day light, Outside
the streets are deserted and a cold mist is parring in the »
pinheiros that crowd up almost into the city from all
sides,

Imbetuva is a town well into the center of the state
established on the old trail to Guarapuava, and now a frone-
tier town of the real sort, where you. m** ‘ g@ every day

huge big prairie schooners drawn

by two lines of mules four abreast | =
and covered with great sheets of ™

dark red canvas, which protects from
the rain the hides and the herva
matte that nearly always crowd the
driver in his seat, It is a town of
horsemen and @s we approach the
Argentine line that bezins to mean
more end more, for the animals are
better bred and have fewer parasites
and as a result. look very handsome,

A town too where lions skins hang f

 

casually from the axe-hewn posts of
the vendas, for sale at §4,00 each,
And such a town as to make it, good
policy for the Padre to dress like a man and to try to be-
hove like one; for there is much more manhood afloat here
than elsewhere I have seen----contact with much leather
seems to have a definite effect on mens spirits}

Last night Silveira was telling me of the habits of
the caboclos here in the Matte, He has been a fur trader
and he says that .the most valu.ble hide is that of an onea

( or word ounce) or S.A, tiger, when it has been killed by
 

 

the cabocio plunges with his free right arm the dz

 

| a caboclo with a forquilla, A forquilla is a long forked

- poke of strong wood, Se deft do these natives become, (they

are mostly Indian blodd) that they dare to tease a tiger into
springing eat them and are able to jab the fork right at his
neck and strangle him and fix him by the weight of his om
flying body 50 firmly that a companion or some times alone
they can beat the onca to death and thus leave his skin with-
out a scratch, Another more valorous method is to wrap a
large amount of straw around the left arm and outside this

slats of wood and outside this withes of cipo ax a loose

growing very useful vine that is almost as good as rope,

so thet the caboclo has finally a forearm as big or bigger

“than his leg, He then takes his humting dagger and starts

out for trouble, When he finally meets his onca he throws
rocks at him dances about and taunts the tiger into a rage,

When the tigre finally springs the caboclo guards with his

left arm which the tiger bites in whole-hearted rage while

scer into

 

the tigers heart or of necessity very close to it, before *
he falls down in the final tussle, of course frequently the
onca gets in a fearful swipe with hie claws and frequently

the fight is not at all one sided when the reckoning is made #

3

_ thet

-eebut it strikes me as a pretty sporting sort of a fight, .

They are an interesting type

 

 

of humanity, these caboclos, much ‘
like our Indians in their knowledge

of the woods, Their hair is very ¢
fine and silky and very black and a
frequently their eyes have a good
deal of frankness and beauty which
the other races here dont have,

They are «mazingly simple in their
dette of living but have a serious
simplicity that is a great contrast
to the leering carelessness of the

degenerated European,
, ee

aS
#
>
¥
a

 

. september 19

™~

m
L

Today has been. the, first, leg ofa journey .to quand puava

an old-old settlement in the heart ‘of ‘the state, thirty. lea-

_gues from Imbéetuva, sto which I: am: going alone tom see if it _

18 worth while for an inspection!sfhe other five ‘I am leaving

_at work in paEDS LESS Bheae to igo: on to a desenhe: if I tele-

graph them:to,

——

is soveatie " Di nsicsniscgncinshigaetgcecncillep apis onsaentibicienldieaat teeta eee : nisin bi A é i we

ae ; i ee Japanese kimono which Elinor gave me

* these many years ago, while sulphur burns death to’ the fleas

in my clothes in my, duffle bag close by, The town being Pru-
=
dentopolis the hotel being the Roth, Of the town and its

 

a8. the diligencia» jolted down the rhiowurbis road at twilight,

 

_But just that glimpse showed a Greek style of church anda

 

‘tendency to second stories on the Russian plan---which is all_

 

 

natural enough , this is a Polish colony’ aged some 85 years,
Of a certainty when we start outein&. the: morhing we shall see

the white haired pasty faced children "Braz ilians";

mnie nenmennnceceneetenten ux een eetereneneneseyiinnennaemnilD

__.......__Verdade, which is P, for Gruly. butts said very: sing-

streets, of the type of church and houses: we- got but. a 4 glimpse

__song, ver-da-de, this is interesting country. It is all hills

ee a Se hen int 6ient Horse

 

 

and all pine trees, and all along these red-purple roads we

   
   

\
| :
|. prairie schooners like this
.

one, deep wine red in color
and presided over by the :

stern type that. once

 

 

——

_kept Frederic Remington.

 

_busy, or occasionally will
_.come sliding .along on a4

__fine single-footer-a man

_ With @ hat that fairly co-

—

. yers him, black neckerchief
high black boots and a raw

hide lariat attached to his
x

~trunksiof red brown, porous

trunk to trunk--) to be admired. but not explored for the

)

high saddle that-shines iy

‘fh

Ky,

-

©

nt and back with repousse

-in. silver metal, It -iscin its own way our west allcover
again and why oh why doesnt anybody know. about it !- 3

Such punctiliocus sreetings. when these fellows dismount--_

. &

~Sim. meus senhores!" arid shakin g hands all. rouad, Such
perfection in wasting time , Such obviuos gun.barrels
on the hip when they stoop over,
3 : | a + 7 >
Along ‘the side of the roadithe chachin,-

hi
fire-y stuff, topped. by

I
a

~

huge burst of fern leaves, Sometimes these in,fences

we
cascavels or local: rattieris is so apt to besnestling in

a ie. ee te ae aii pa lal | 5 + > c
he 20llyiiAnd Blong: the road too the: matte’ trees andthei®  *°.

 

owners, stripping the: long ‘well leaved shoots twirling |

 

them for a minute in the fire--
a Ss east cravkling and smoke
for a.°cpond: ---: end’ then).

_laying them in big piles; to
pe taken to the drying kiln 2
and the: crude machine: they ‘ha
have, for rubbing and, breaking
tne leaves off, I> walked two
hours and.a half this morning _
and saw itally green parrots.
in swift, flight: at epproach, s
and beautiful buff-colored

jays. 10 LB439 9

wad by stage this journey Ee
14. toniorpo, We strike i the real edge of _the—woods so at—Banan
? :
a1 .I1l1 continue, :
September 21 10919

_.._________But_instead_of-at—Banaanal—I-am-now at Guarapuava itself aa

«| .. ‘and having go. tine 7% 0s Jee eueeping Sent thet cecers ce
‘enormous smount of ground with scattered white plaster_houses
ee painted robbins egg blue or a soft terra cotta color or egg

 

 

________syellow, an@ it has-been for more than a hundred years a tom

 

for the caboclos or half breeds \amd anamt out post-ageinst =

 

 

= the Argentine and, Paraguay, Twenty. six leagues from here ss there
is a a semicivilized colony-of- the Coroados-- Indians that three
hundred years ago were organized by the. spanish Jesuits into
a& colony _ of a hundred thousand, to be destroyed utterly by —
—. -- the roving Paulistas from the north, Some of. the church bells ——_—

 

 

in Sao Paulo now were made by these same Indians under Jesuit

guidance, py ae

 

 

You-would be-interested in the
|| place I am pretty sure and I am

 

_ going, to bet. a ba stante anount  __

 

- Of photographs of whatever eo.
peresting, I came-on here alone ———

8p out the land fora _poss- Bae a

vey and I-find everything ————
ats to the, chances. of making. ———

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

a g¢ood one, You ought to have seen
- ‘ the formal presentations at the
: | Camara Municipal,.a screaming =

 

anount of solem bowing and. affable — a

 

 

smiles--"Tenho muito prazer de _

 

 

=

ak: i Ko sina eonhecel-o". etc. -etc.,.- AL 1. with—a—

 

 

of asking for a house and for cooperation-in advertising our

 

_ stay an nong the hundreds of out-lying ranches or -fazendas,;... __
said it would-be much better to go tothe Chefe. Politico and
get his word for it all, Porwith Dr Thaumat

 

 

a cheerful fat little Bahiaan who is <i,

ae:

 

 
eee
ial

  
 
 

| ia j _- -msual diamond set in

the collar button, a
SO eee gt kindly inte&l- aloe SS

 

“oes ‘oo _ We found him without 9665

 

izent man with a thin

 
 

—-pleasant brown eyes — —

 

ee f f f “2
ay : G 2 enrp “7 F
saat : sasielohaabiideasealetaicsaa cis Se ae BAR a NEA b a
“

 

 

with none of the sus-

—~ascetic mouth ana oT P4029!

——picious roving seri

 

S -~tiny in them that nost-——-
= Of the politicaos have, He heard my story «nd is soing
al to send ‘his lieutenents in all the districts word to —————__

~~poss with none of the secrecy that ours have-- but ——

Tg nt mean that he cant do some shady work because
— “he is openly recorni se@:Ae we! were talking I heard -
-a-queer thudding noise and-looking out saw_in the _
street on horse back 2 leper with most of his. fingers
- Peveers Siey- are allowed to come in to town t wice a
week and beg provided they dont get off their horses,
~~] gaw-eight yesterday for this place is a veritable

—nest for leprosy\i The ones in the colony are the bravest —

he could-do for his family---keep away from it, |
and I-say chose because. there is no obligation to get
away; it is in-rich- and powerful families here who _
—. wiLl-<not-allow any such law-to be made or enforced, |
Just yesterday a girl. was yanked out.of the Escuola _
—_ Aéclloasa.:Seuhora De Belem next door---sick four months

— gend: in. thel Y subjec ts: he is acknowledged as being the —

“they chose to do what one told me wae—the only thing...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4 “J the point there the doctors diagnosis was merely confbrn-
“a avory-- they «11 knew the child had leprosy, This is a country
: of perfect individualien and 1% has its virtues and its vices,
’ What do the fazendeiros do with their money"? I asked yester-
a: day at.almoco of a young advocate,"Loan it at 12% per nonth"
a was the reply and the rest confirmed him,
: Thereis an American Missionary here, a wizened little
s “en with gentie manners and a dirty black coat and a Jencks.
i like beard, with a wife who is a rélatiou of the Gastons in
o Boston: daughter of a Columbia S.C, physician who was on
oe Stonéwall Jackson's Staff and lost all in the Civil War and
a : left for Brazil, irs Kolb always refers to the local Pres-
: byterians as “one of the Faith" and has exactly the face
+ : that oe : :
. ‘9 iat
‘ kindly and stern, and nearsicht-
ea, Two daughters who speak Enge-
= lish with a slumuens crisp accent
- from an utterly Brazilian point
% of view, They take the Ladies
Home Journal, The Review of
Reviews, end the Geographical
: Magazines- and America is to
them a strange place of lost
friends sam Sele aCe
Ee quaintances, I took aimoce there
/ yesterday and it was certainly The Koll
good, Thank the Lord you have peen in France so that you mow
what I mean when I gay that I was surprised and delighted to
to fina OATMEALOn the table with milk and sugar ! First time
since uareh, and this being winter I had thought of it several
: times. But I was a bit done in when they suddenly « started fame

 

ily prayers in Portuguese with Mmoday and Sankey hymns and Port <

 

 

 
usuese vords "Gariho uma c'roa del Rei" dnstead of"ackingly::

SSS ESERIES CORINA BN ETRY EN ME AE LT TOR ARON ERE ea EA EA ANEDEE KR REN EPEAT OL 2 RM OT A RAR APE I OR SPIE SM AAT

 

 

erem I'd gain” ete)? > 8.

AD a BNET MN sthMN DS A sey nrtgne Nt A ACN A NE ESAS RAEI AIEEE TL EE NE LE ELE LLL LLL ELL LE LLL LL LEED OT ILE LAI

Today I am just off for the church service--- more

PR ae ess ea TAS RENTAL

 

of this very o odd flavor of Senhor Guilierme ——: © Senhor

OTE TAL Or

 

 

ARSE ENE SERIO AER NGRIAENE SD ARDC IE i RIS

Ira Sankey,

secs nn SE EU ES CPOE ED MSI CATA EEE NEI TENSE SINE ERT STEIN TL. NCS TONE ER ESN SE ASEAN TS SARTRE ERE RA EI SEA AR PASSE ARE RN SRY EB ANS A A RAE one aon roe 08! were
sorina ma rmeA As = ‘ewe

‘meat: of “Luck . and I'm almost: ‘tempted: to pay Merry

 

 

 

Christmas, Thanks for the “sugges tion . as to: an arreia ‘tor: the
horses - Souths Tamworth,

sen ESN PIA AEE SE SE IES LENE ATES TPE PEL LEE TOTTI ATTIRE ETAL DEL LSID ATS LTO TE TTT LIT

 
     

 

of COUAaweUds=
y i |

~
ot we ce bene aon 2 . IN AE. OEE LE FEN MN BEE TORE ET A RENEE NN EE ICTMEE ANCES SET

(OA ENE EEE AE AK RIB

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

xe iowa ~ ress was
ss sat
cs me wn: 20
od
os eee emt
re ram Br tom rma
ao ao
~-
ar oar t nar
eevee

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

about H M,T, jr, ond his Hon. diecharge from the

 

 

ané is so strange that it is hard Lacconmuntonte: beh we have*dé,
oe started out with splendid wisdom and forethought to protect

Soivice; very pla a I agree with you not a lachrimal Aischange
by a good deal, I too suffered from salute-shock for many days

particularly the first day I. put on civies in London-- —_—

. the foreieon touch,

The humor of an inspection trip duit. the state. of Pare

we

my personnel against the usual personnel infections but to my

auusement found that in all butitwo cases I could direct prophe

ylactic zeal only against tertiary synptous 1 T laugh to think
of the hour in the morning that man will have to Fise in Brazil

¥. ‘>

 

whe expects to Se out se . It is cht alnost universal: and cae

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fe not hereditary it comes more easily", eee SA ee ” Tage

one : eh OE
: Fee
| They have marvellous créme de cacao here and the best ee

 

 

 

 

beer I have had since the war began: but why talk rain 3" a” a ea ee

man in the Sahara 7 1 forget myself, Dr Thaumaturgo de ifiranda —

 

and I had an extra beer last nicht to the health of the anti«

 

aleohod movement, As you well remark What. can the Lampoon. be. spas Kp

now! Drink to me only with thine eyes, AS Bob Benchley remarks

oul

"See if’’can ay over the names of nine light wines without burste

 

ing into tears",

 

Sarees pemggennnc 9

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

£. I am in Guarapuava thirty leagues from the railroad in
a of a big cattle country which has all the characteriste ‘
s se ae our om West: prairie schooners, three day gambling parties
a cachaga or poisonous native whiskey, high boots, sombreros and —
oe. real men ond rare women and dads fi rarer ladies, painfully —

 

 

 

& nest for leprosy: Bsc come in to town twice a weer and beg from

__large kniives and pleasant little Lllconcealed pistols, edically

  
 

horseback, Yeeterday I had to drop my contribution into

 

 

 

 

 

 

one's pocket for an obvious reason <=no hand, But it...

keeps on-~ because 4t {s-scattered in ‘ameng rich and. powerful
: families end they wont hear of any interference with their: “a
: abana uebdbneep-22icd See) bowetiee oot 1 09 a
: ‘Your job at the City sounds awfully good to me,

 

I commend to you Eddie Harding who ought to be there part or

 

. your stay there, His manner is rough and boreal but he is a

fighting gentleman if such there be, and he has got more

 

guts ‘than the ordinary 30 feet that most of us use,

 

 

 

Have more songs ready for soirree at those delightful — ;

sisters in Balto, When you write tell ‘en I am using "Someone

 

 

else may be there thile I'm gone" vhenever I look up through —

 

the palm leaves at this extraordinary moon, Gewalt ! If you

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ie ever see a city more wonderfully beautiful than Rio.I will-
. "want 0 know 4t, too, before I'm old, Go see Mary Lee vhen
, you are in B, s+she's been the only woman in a-regiment on the
| . Rhine and will therefore find the change back to Chestnut Hill ,
oo at times more than the barometer can register, And: at cheering
‘ . ‘folks up I have still to find your equal, |
Must nbite to Harry A the coming Internist of Peoria s
one of these days, I had rather expected him to stick with C a
5 Cushing and become a neurologistof @ broad sort,
Give my best regards to your family from me; if that ,
No Thought sect evr decides to send Foreien Missionaries into. .

 

 

the field , frankly dont you think I am the logical choice

 

 

 

 

for Brazil ?

 

 

 

 

 

 

—'Te logo cen We
: A.Ge (lost fountain pen trying to catch
magnificent butterflies on the way in here by diligencia)

 

 

 

 
 

 

= Sept 21

. Vagsteriay iF > ‘€3 2s iis vA . 2: 2 at: 8 EAT) F : Fr

the country of prairie senses. three day

 

 

 

gambling oartien:, pot sonous whiskey, sombreros | and high boots,
real men and rare women and infinitely rarer ladies, painfully _
large knives and pleasant little ill-concealed pistols,

It has been worth the, leagues and leagues the ailigencia jolted

up ever the Serra from Imbetuva where I left my gang working,
up through Majolinho, Prudentopolis, ond yp the aountain road i

te. Chico Russo! s house at Bananal on the summit of the pass, add

2 finally down to Guarapuava the uornin. of the third day. Five
"horses. pulling us continually cocked by. the driver, Sitting next

to me ‘Was Done Franca the Senhora of Bento de’ Barros, ; genially

enduring my Portucuese, or givi ig Titanic accomuodations to the

sleepy, well mannered 15 Ones illegitiuate son of her highly re-

 

 

deacted husbané , It is a bit odd here at times in that particule

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

| BDawe Theses for degrees for instance are always marked by "0
e., filho lecitimo" of s0eant-so, o
. i ;
‘Much. of the e time I was out of the dilisencia to see the
brilliant butterflies, the flowering trees and ihe hurd ie birds
or beijo flores, eigat or: ten shimmer tii; and darting over one

 

 

tree, And then at nig

 

 

it in front of Chico! & _ the. ee ar

 

 
    

die

 

their fires in tre dust near onotr horses

 

  

_there you would think there was te G

 

but. to stare Up into the sky shere

 
 

Southern Cross, and sec but woe jie sien

 

the outlines of these big pinheirose se
eachother BS

 
   

against the sity « as

 

  

  

se Sees
; ek
xha Saat at:
Lat i “ed
’ é 7 8

 

 

frontierenen bu

crop, and then suddenly we swung: out

 

haay spring horizon. cattle ‘soda

 

 

 

 

ee -
with 8 frsh eas

 

 

 

ses and sti}l more of the big

 

 
    
  
  
 

   

e of the~ ee ri

#3 ©
Pod ete

ddles silver mounted

  

 

It ic a low swee sort of town. scattered white

 
 

laster houses ted robbins egs blue or a soft terra

   
 

 

 

cotta, or egg yellow, or pink,

It was more or less of a Brodie to come out from

 

 

the rest and try my hand at negociations alone, but I can

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

: talk well enourh to manage and I was enxious not to spend

: time and money if we are not going to he able to get fig

.. f moco, There was a_

; little o1d disnified guiet man who looked at me through

dirty gaasses with the piercing simplicity of all nearsighted

a Christians, and received my story with all the modulations

: of feeling between en initiel professional endurance of

a 7 total stranger, on towards a kindly but sort of broken

 

 

zeal for the undertaking, as if to say, " Ah yes ay bey,
 

 

atte a ap ge ,
-_ ee Ps
: ieee 5. Neel
rome
¢
Bais
oN
+in4 Sa [Arye fe c i “ate C ; pie LO} mt to)
ae Ss ae 2” ms wD
Gay we shall not see the Kinedos | Ax
al bal?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Slocks, came to a big yard sti

 

hendclapping kharexgame (which is the disnified way of announcing

yourself here) there came a tall

 

showing the swelling... ete of leprosy, He was very simple and

gentle in his manner and when he said that the only thing he could

 

 

do for his family was to leave them utterly--«1 got muy first

 

 

 

+
first hand impression of wha’ 3 leprosy Do you know why they
Cany SS aAnyvAi ins cone nere?r The LOW 4 baked Wi tn Sprasy, “

 

Guess at it ---it is the

 

 

_wont stand for the segregation of thebr lepers,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

: SE ae ia ~~ ___On Saturday the bepers who
| have the courage to isolate
| themselves can come to town
7 | and beg from horseback, a
3 waiting with patient uncerte
“ | | ainty, and tapping against the
: l\4) pommel of the saddle for esnolla

at work for the Commission

 

 

 

4 4 § §cetting the infection rate
and the location of the

 

 

cases here in Brazil~= but

 

 

 

tan boss nae Setualy he cannot cover it and Tam
getting a local list ready for hin,

 

ster's and there

 

sure enough

 

was @ picture of Robert E Speer, and a photo-

 

 
 

 

of hideous antique architecture with the later Greco-New York

fresh beauty of a dormitory given by some bankers widow in meme
 

ea
a
a
es
se
FS
Fes
&
7
,
ae
*
%
ae

 

lor table was ¢ any oO Lie
in which Mr Kolb took especial delizhte- I suspect that a

missionary is a special and subtle forr

 

 

 

 

Being a wanderer is like being an artist-- it is all the
easier if you are a bht out of conceit with your day and
seheration, But 01d Kolb's enthusiasm for travel and variety

fair made me gasprenali | the low passion. for travel that ine

 

fests x. cypsy' S hearts: with none of the eypsy' s blithe Seis

 

 

erance and ateentanae of the world as it 4s,

 

 

 

of all things they®

 

for almoco at the Ki'see I

 

 

 

 

 

nearly collapsed for.I had seen

 

none for a long time and gosh

 

you know I was brought up on the

 

stuff, It was pleasant,

 

Just after the meal was fin=

 

 

ished I felt sort og an ——

 

 

wags ag the neurasthenio ladies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

describe to you on Ward C at the

 

 

i \ WAY UF re SANNA ‘ ny 61

 

 

 

M,G.H, and suddenly realised
Compauson eo , that we were getting Bibles
and Hymn books given us by

 

daughter One, Then began dauchter Two suddenly to Sing @

_Moodey and Sankey hymn with Portuguese wobds---such an odd

 

flavor, But Iwas certainly floored when the 01d gentleman

 

aid a sort of a Ilifnesota shift and embracing his aged wife

 

began to pray in a strongly English accent in Portujueseq-~

 

” -Nosso Pae no Ceo nao esquece as criancas desta familia,"

 

Work goes well: but the number of infected is not

 

vory large and I shall not be likely to return to this

 

art of the world until the day when L go to see the Qedas ~

 

de Santa Marta or the sete Quedas de Iguassu, seventy degues

 

 

 

 
Guarapuava October 1-1919

lg

Here we are about to leave this section of the
wild west of Brazil and are waiting the carroca to t.ke us out |
three days jourhes: te Fernandez Pinheiro a station on the rail-
road, where by the Grace of God I may find after a days journey
_ some mail, and a haircut and a bathtub, and a bank and all the
other sources of strens-bhh -eincluding a letter fran iM Frain,
We were to have left this place if it hadnt rained--. but it
clouded up about an hour before gezz. almoco and rained ---fe
Gods how it Rained! All of which means that the automobilist ga

cold feet and refused to go == so we shall have to take the stage

 

coach tomorrow and spend three days going what the machine could
do in Half.a a day, So I am back at the vacant house we have

been using and hauled out pajamas and box of butterflies from
| _( what a typewriter!!! )

ail sui tease and am preparing to spend another @ night, Well just

a year 220 today it was raining miserably --near Ypres and we
were recieving 600 to 1200 wounded in twenty-four hours and
I was cutting dom khaki coats and Slitting up khaki breeches
and arrenging, blankets and trying to get pulses on pulseless

Tommies and arranging men in the order of iupending collapse :
for admission into a steaming busy operating rooue-= 80 I think
I connet -compiains Gosh what a sixsecks those were!
An interesting old. caboclo er native Brazilian came
to the door late lest night with 4 little bey in tow and in
. the most scroupulously polite
way asked if ne could for a mouent
enter, He came in and with nae
rough home nage: straw hatin his
hand he explained that he had just
heard of our being here and had
come 20 leagues on foot with the

paizinho on a mule to be examined,
He had not had much to eat he said

 
when we asked him about it, Now & league here is 4 English of
‘miles, Martie, so I was really touched by faith like that

: ond we examined hin right away and found him loaded

with hookworm and he went away aurmumring "Deus-lhe pague,
Senhor" (God will pay you) cured of his illness, That is
the sort of thing I like, I used to get bored with all the

: Sa of the Hospital treatment-- "discharged relieved .

0.P D," when T knew they werent much relieved nor discharg.
to a very happy land, But if I should meet this old bird a
month. from now I could heve cnything he hase= and that febling
is pure luxury for me, i get a bit bored with the me@icos who

 

insist that they are the salt of the earth and get-very angry
if they cant have their way in handling people---it is @
luxury to be in a position to aid and take care of people if
you are built that way-- and if youre are not built that way

 

medicine and nursing were poor Jobs to get into, Nao e? which

is Portuguese for Aint I right Mable? "Tem razao" which is

. a Portuguese for "Alecrnon youre on", | sg

Pe . Bais Americo. Bonini a boy of nlineiuaieen des the survey x

is studying a book of Rng¢lish whbth claims that the student ee
will know the language in thirty days, One of the sentences

which is a gem reads "Al emm gou-ing tu bed; dro de car ‘'tennz ;

Uer i122 ior eldest sisa"tar",. 7

Well Martie, if I find a letter for me from you at
Ponta Grossa I will write you a prompt reply and if I dont
ig will write you anyway -- s0 theres no way out of it fxan
for you. I would 1ike insted to be saying the following from

a t

"Englez ea 30 dias" 'aud morn ‘ning mad di'ar frend ai ema

ver "4 gled tu si hu! . Camm inn, Ai du not leig tu breq'fasst co

alounn' ennd ai uozz eqss-peq' ting iw. KS , °
; ; | ae 7 me .
'me cualouer dia cs 7" a
t = ius 1a 7 eee | : eh Ba akg ,

      
Tube tuve
October 5 1919

A cat has just torn by with a screaming senhora in pursuit

»
oO

_ and the evenings chop in its watering mouth, Long lines of jing-
ling wine red prairie schooners are careening dow the ruts of
mud near my window and the Sponholzes are chattertng a mixture

of German and Portuguese on the other side of the blazing blue
door that shuts my suite off from the sala of the hotel, The
door is blue the frame maroon and the walls pea-green but so
used am I now to such things that I. do not notice it, It is
Sunday and we are stalled here because there ida strike on
_' @mong the railroad employes-- and being a 5 hour journey from
the railroad and a days journey away from Ponta grossa, my

; destination, I am halting a day ir the hopes that the strike
may be settled and I may thereby save a day and about a
hundred milreis by going dow to Fernandez Pinheiro with

"ay two detached men and all our baggage insted of making a
weary drone all the way by carveca to Ponta Grossa, The rest are
there ahead of me waiting to go on “to Jaguariahyva-- but God
knows when we will get there-- telegraphing inane Brazilians
and expecting them to have ordinary reactions is indeed
experimental--- and "good administrative parctise"---like
nothing on earth, :

The past three days I have been’ on a stage jourhey
out fron Cuarapuave., ‘Part. of the time it rained heavily md
the rest of the time I ceught butterflies to ay hearts content
while the cerroca dwindled: and dawdled along the heavy road,
‘Here in Brazil there are more beautiful and highly colored soe
barboletas than exisb in all the U.S. put together: I think I
*

have i5 different varieties from two mornings only.

I am going to go into it for a bit on the side and
keep then carefully: they are very beautiful indeed,
The day went rapidly chasing them, Down roads almost
blodd red, trees deep green, ferns, new birds and

trees in bloom---truly as Smillie wrote me I have

by far the best survey yet thet any of us haws had

to do, But &* at has been 2a Long, time since I have

heard from home in any way and it is true that without

7 someone to compare notes with and talk to travelling
2 becomes a little stale even the best of it, I remember

 

ch the same thing was true in Europe in 1911--

so I do not consider that I am in very hard luck,
a The revelation of divine truth in the Sweden-
borgian sense of. the word has taken place with ree
gard to these Brazblians. Darling in Sao Paulo told

me Swedenborg's definition of revelation "Revealtion

 

io an obscuring or clouding-over of Divine Truth",
And so I can make a revelation of Brazilians, The
“thing about a Brazilian that is peculiar is that
from the ordinary point of view they have no repressions- -
whatever, Such a thing as self discipline is unknowm
_ and. hence Lt is that frequently they seem and in
effect are perfectly useless and foreign absolute-
ly to our way of thinking. It it more to their abe
sence of repression than to anything elee that I
would lay the extraordinary lack of expression in >
this country--- they are almost wit out art of
any kind --- among the people itself, You cant
buy any manufactured beauty. that I oan remeber

w, heving seen, Just the way the U.S, was but perhaps

 

worse, And in fact there are a godd mahy comparisons
of the same sort. that can be uade between Brazil '

x

and America of 50 years ago.

. ;
ca Bed
: ae
“* : 2 es 2 ae
eis es ee ae ‘
ae See we —
ase epee, nS

 
as

 

ainly chee te read it ee You needed worry about not: “writing |

an old ae = en ae came » to us

‘TT ahve’ your. letter of guly 20 here with me and =: was certad&

ee

me man , I have lots of evenongs fréé with nothing to do snd

a iarge admiring crowd ‘loke the present one to watch it me

do it, whereas I can well see that you have a, darned hard

time to keep awake at night with. ‘the flat all culi of -
‘nothing but bed and books ana wild I ever see the thing agin)

- a bath tub, What an odd thing it is to erop, out of sight com a

 

pletely. of. all ‘the English. speakers and thinkers — I mean just.
folks) and not _ see anything that has a natural appearance
from one weeks end to another, You little realize how many_
familiar things there are in Keokuk until you have been three
weeks in GUAT 8 DURTR.« :

Thanks for Siew Nation, - expect it: wit] be in Ponta Grossa_
when E get there--whenever ‘that will ‘be, It will be a great

Pleasure to: read a bit: or English again, But just as it is a

Ss:pleasure to go back to English it certainly is a pleasure too -

to keep Seine forward ai Portuguese---] am on the verge of be-

| ing aris to express shades of- ideas instead of broad inaccur-

acies, And naturally that is a great pleasure, I was able to

wring a nagered mare eg Wat of the Camara Municipal in Ka a

‘cuarapuava without much aitfioultyltor 1 me== God knows they - os

probably suffered), The verbs are the difficulty especially , esc
the subjunctives, But it is a curiously loose and fluid ton- a

sue and but very few people in the world ed cadre! tt correctly

SO everyone is tolerant, “Tolerance is one of the chief virtues

-
of this land,, whieh see absence of any yepresston< |
; : i ; . ¥

oO wom : bc _ noice caplet

- One of the finest Sights r have seen here lately was

 

a

with the finest sort of manners a bow and a request that. ee = oe

os ie sacs

 

we would do a te

 
 

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-

ia che
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Maat a ae AS dodedaleer abn de

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a ee ee ap 8

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four, English mil

ea oie
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a

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come

al tims tn” be i
Cr, you realise that a

a ll a i ae
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* - = a fe
wn > 794 rl
aad aC. -—= aue ana

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legua here

. —- a
now many

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— ee ee
you heard

\
QW yt
ay you)

3 ‘ TATA a ' ES * ¥, oe 1 - - Tn ‘i LY > =~] ~t > vT) ‘ “ 4. 1. . ry
and wren y ou knew that he had had almost no LOLS
ie aA. Pot 4% a2 aa Ne a 7 -— o> or % & } ”
eat all of that journey---you'd agree with me,
a. a ee 4%. onto? he Ak .
was treated and in about a montn he ougnt to be
3 rye S 3 O ci ., no <3 cs h eo we gS a
ASAIN @a& SUrOng as fl fs S
€
» “te » " . % Ae a } of? > , ~~ eee m 3 me, +"
I enclose a picture of a very good sort of

oung Brazil

dM

&

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Sa

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.
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erman who has all the

tte from @ cuia and a

Sponholz,

Hote

Local

chaleira

 
T he professor is giving "music" lessons to the ‘pent little
daughter of Senhor Santos fof the hotel of that name here in
Ponta Grossa, while I sit out under a rose covered arbor ak
waiting for my train and a chance to get out into the fiekd
again. It has | been some time since a letter to the President of
the Company was directed your way, an and a good deal has inter-
venec of one kind or another, in the meantime. Instead of getting
out of guarapuava in six hours in an automobile, there came heavy
rain and we had to take three wa. A to it in a very uncomfortably
jolty carroca, This got us to the railroad Just in time to run
into a strike which further held us up and ‘then after we had gotten
a little work done in Ponta Grossa and were all ready to go North
for more, ‘my guarda had an acute belly-ache which seemed so much
like an appendix that I had to stay behind and see him through
which has taken ‘two more days, He fortunately turns out “e be
sick with nothing more than an acute abdominal erippe--if my old
friends the clinicians will permit the term-- and I an by the
contrast of what might have been very thankful, oe

rT remember writing at least one letter to Mar jorie from

Guarapuava, which perhaps you will have seen by now and so I will

not waste any time on telling about it. ‘The trip out was in spite
of rain very amusing for it cleared up the second day and I had
a splendid day of butterfly catching and walking along the bright
red roads among pinheiros and bamboo thickets and herva matte
with the carroca dawdling behind and really nobody at all near
to disturb the birds and the butterflies and the spiders and
all the rest of the solitudes citizens, a

I was delighted to learn from Father’ S. letter that ‘he has
started to browse in Portuguese, because in sending him two news-
papers from Guarapuava I had bet on just exactly that move and
thought that when he got to the words Doutor Alan Gregg he prop-
ably would be able to read at sight for a spell, ae really is a

very easy tongue to read and is supposed to be more like Latin
than the other Latim tongues, —

From a standpoint of customs and ideas these people
are beginning to be comprehensible to me, They abhor effort
and unless in the heat of the moment the educated classes do
not seem capable of it. They do not know what self- direction i
is nor are they acquaintances with discipline--- in the schools

‘the teacher with the shrillest loudest voice triumphs by
vibtue of it only. They are mystified almost by the un-
canny ability of the Americans to be practical and to the.
point--- and somehow or other their highly estimated
virtues seem to be suggest two of their own words always to me
suadacoes and homenagem, The first is an oily sort of
Slop-over in the way of greeting and means but very little
as regards constancy or loyalty but a great deal in the
way of pleasing and ceremoniuus attention. Homenagem is
not translatable, but is the outgrowth of the fact that
they camnet have any common intellectual and at times
any spiritual interests with their women and have as a
result to spend it @ll upon their men friends-- which
is homenagem as far as I can see now, I wiil admit I dont
feel sne of this --but the impression is certainly strong.

But what country and what Nabure! Gosh it will

be a long time before I can forget Rio Harbor and when it seems
as if I were beginning to do so I shall try and go there again —
to renew the delight of it, Her too it is wonderfully good
country and I hope someday to get to the Iguassu Falls and
the real west of the state to gee. its life, It is modified by
the fe@ling that it is not my country and never can be
but as never failing interest it has few equals in my experience,
And my experience is growing .--- I will admit that it would
take several napkina rings to keeft all the names of the n
places I have been in in the past half year~-~ even the teh

a

day inter wals .
This has been a typical day-- typical of the sort of work
that will be coming my way in alt probability Tor the nest three
months, Here we are in Jacarezinho, on the 2t of October--here
six days but with more than 900 people treated to an examination
and more than 299 treated to a bastante dosagem of chenopodiun,

We aivexed after two days travel on the R.R. last Sunday, aad
lt is now Saturday, and it was not hard to realize from the very
first that the neopae, hewn really have hookworn, and not only have
it but areextremely anxious to get rid of it, We have not had
such copperation,since the Itapema survey,

Monday, no Sunday was election day, and Remigio and I wander-
from one local authority to another explaining what we wanted to
do but apparently in vain, for they were all preoccupied with
politics, We met the chefe politico but he was drunk both with
power and pinga and it seemed for a while as though the day was
wasted, especially when it began to raine-- and that meant that
the cinema would not come off till Monday and thus we might have
to wait till Tuesday ‘for the use of the hall--0 Cinema Radium,

But we did see a few tall and husky fazendheiros who had come to
the elections and they took some of the eee and promised to
advise their co2onios tom be examined, |
Monday after waiting from 8 A.M. till 12:30 finally the
trole or buckboard of SR DR Silveira arrived and Bonini and I went
out to a perfectly beautiful coffee fazenda where we stayed on the
front porch of the Big House and examined hemoglobins and spleens
of about a hundred colonos--many husky smiling little Japanese,
One Jap woman of 18 had a rather a thin little baby she etimningly
with the intention of saying 2 “What had we better do in this
case?" and after explaining to her what to do for infantile trou-
ble such as the kid had I was not especially surprised to have a
sudden swarm of Japs all with kids of just the same size and app

earance, making the same curious’ noises, Olio Ricino for the en-

tire colony! And a handsome negro girl of 18 sitting patiently
with a very swollen foot that the cat had bitten some three days
before, I fixed this up with a great deal of pleasure in
the variety it gave from the everlasting apieen payer

tion and hemoglobin taking. :

The next cis I was

ready for an early start

to the fazenda of Major

Infante Veira, but the

horses didnt come till

quarter of eight, When
| after a perfechiy beauti-

tui ride we finally got
\e there I was more than re
paid for there on the

_ Bide of a big red hill,

| with deep green coffee

bushes in perfect lines |

running up and away on

 

every side, was a group

of mud huts
with the usual masto of Sao Jose floating

over the sqalor--- a large print of that well known

and useless saint on cloth, which is stretched tighly

on a frame as if to pe embroidered, but is instead

swung on a@ rusty hinge at the top of a tall pole, and
thus prevents the colonos from all ills including.

by force of reasoning, Hookworm, A kindly travelling

_ bank agent who is interested in the region made the jour
ney of 16 miles with me and was my secretary in the hut
while we examined about a hundred of the natives, and

the only difficulty was a setting hen that kept having

to be throw out of the clinic because she thought her
nest was in a pile of reeds at my feet which is by court=
esy here aalled a cama or bed, Then there was & dog fight

in the bedroom---but I am getting'used', and almost for-_
    

fully typical | of the country. He told me of that " cruel phase ”

got about it, The dogs are wonder-
= fully natural in their behaviour
_ here, Nobody thinks of throwing them
ia of anywhere; at the cinema Mon-
day they were there in great numbers
- and behaved just like people at the
r See | a 1 the opera-- before the show began
— Walking round and round and seeing
| and sizing up all the other aogs,
| and when the show began watching it
| for a minute to make sure nothing
: unusual was happening, and then

| fa
P falling asleep,

I rode home from Major Infante's —
after we had had coffee three or
four times at the @ Big House, And on both sides of the road
huge fallen trees lying untouched es the fields, charred by
the fire that is the only way to conquer the matto here, but
coming up in regudar rows in 411 this confusion was fine young
coffee, They lack only capital and healthy labor to make 200%
to 300% the years profit on an investment. I never have seen
such evidence of fertility. And where there is no clearing it
is all cool and shady and fragrant deep forest with strange
birds calling ing the depths and a frog screaching much like
a streetcar on an unoiled curve,

Tuesdays work was finished by some letters and a good
anount 2 sleep while the Brazilians talked indefinitely out
on the sien

Wednesday I went in another direction out to ouro
Grande-~-- riding and talking to a very handsome young fazend-

hiero named Sr Jesuino Jorge da Rosa who in many ways was delignt

 
of the stranger " eu acho que foi um Inglez" who sadid that
Brazil is a great country in size in riches and in its natural
phenomena small only in the type of men it produced, To

which I violently and promptly disagreed, much to his relief,
| Se ee

 

We took a roundabout route stopping at o
at a sugar mill run by a few caboclos
where I took a picture of the oxen
truning the huge wooden rollers that
pinch the stalks of cane and squeeze

out the juice whic runs down to a distant
distant trough where it is scooped

out and finally boiled down into
rapadoura or cane sugar bars, These

are the pictures I took of the process,

Coming home in the
dusk Tt chased for quite a distance
on horseback a huge thing called
@ lagarto, which is a cross effect
between a lizard and an alligator
‘this one was about four feet ‘long
and ran very ewiftly like a mechan
ical toy straight down the road,
not daring to try the low but sttep
sides of the bank--like the Irish
section who ran down the trakk be-

fore his first engine on the theory

 

LRA Mult Br "If Ay couldnt bmatethe baist on th
livil how was Ay iver to bate him rrunnin up hill?" I didnt
catch up with my lagarto,he made a sudden swerve and crackled
away in the underbrush, The are very interesting anatomically
because their ear drum is right on the surface and quite trans-
parent and you can see the bones all in place and funtioning.
Also the glottis sticks uo into their mouth like the end of
a speaking tube, instead of being almost out of aight.
_Jacarezinho

Just: back from a Fazenda , from examining some hundred pretty
sick laboreres ons. thear families and. arranging for their subse-
quent treatment, It was all arranged that we would leave at dawn---
a baner and I, and cover the distance on horseback before the sun
got #32 hot, He has just started a fazenda going and is very anxious
that we examine and treat his laboreres,

Herewe are in the times that the United States was passing through

_ in the Coloriial Period--- the taming of an untouched wilderness, ‘the
planting of timid plants of corn in between huge logs of charrde
trees, the costly encounters of bare feet and rattlesnakes, the use
of the powder horn in relation to the evening meal --- and the enor-
mous profits from hand iia else has served man before

Well it wag arranged for dawn---~"bem cedo"-- and I was ready

at 5:50 but the Light. esck fog which alds so in travelling, had more
than burned off when my large white mule hove in sight at 7 0 ‘clock,
Out we went in the clen eakly morning, along a deep-red colored road
--the earth varies 'tween maroon and actual purple--- with perfect-

ly magnificent young coffee bushes in long deep-green rows, running
as far as you can see or at least to the thick wall of trees and
vines that is the untouched forest,

When we got to his land we examined two very pallid women
with hemoglobins of 45 and 50% . They lived in small mud huts and
with & raft of children equally pale lived on the floor principally
of the houses, Then up a hill anda along &@ 5 kilometer stretch to a
larger fazenda where a coffee hulling machine was roaring over the
last arrobas (of a cousin who had no mill)of the season, and the
Fazendeiro Major Infante was Supping his after dinner coffee in a
miserable room crowdea with flies, He was as usual very kindly and
hospitable, After almogo we went. up to the colonos settlement, the

Ove rseer léaned out of the window of his hut and blew on an old cow
horn. You could hear the echo up through the deep green hills , f
followed bg the answering shouts of some seventy. to a haundred

trabalhadores, men women and children, tho trouped hoes sheepishly
to the hut and I began taking their hemoglobins, and feeling for
Spleens, wile tie enter handled he question cards for meg To-
morrow we shall know who has hookworm and tomorrow night riding
out there again I shall spend the night and treat at 6 A.M. the

next day,

I feel many times that I ought to explain why I picked
Brazil of all places to work in and hookworm of all diseases---
but when a crowd of 150 sick lines up infront of the laboratory
in the morning and you know they are going to profit by the trea-
ment, the best thing is to let the explanations go and just write
that t am in Brazil and let it go at that--- and the travel and
the new customs and the strange things Ill try to pass on

from time to time,

 
Jacarezinho, Outubro 19
1919

In the other room of this little hotel this very
warm raininy evening, I hear the endless monologue of my Brazile
ian doctor, storming and threatening, playing Jeremiah for the
the whole of Brazil, crabbing the politicians and giving advice
to the goverment,---'Eu digo com franqueza'+-- till the dull
circle of listening fazendheiros dwindles to a single man, who
will without a doubt suddenly find that he is the only one left
and taking that as a possible evidence of his om credulity or
lack of judgement, suddenly leavee- with pr, _Remigio scarce
warmed up to topic 5, which begins "Mas nossos caboclos nao 6ac ~
stupidos=- etc, | a

We arrived here today after a two days reide in one
of the dustiest trains I have ever been in, followed by four i

leagues of riding behind a native whose driving consisted of a

continuous straffing of four underfed mules, utterly disregarding
the position of the "troly" (cart) in the road, Before the lash

fell each time he roared the name of the mule who was to get ite=

"BRIOSO" { "PARAHYBA" | or "ZONAS"!--- and I was surprised
that they aia not know their names, I aot very fed up and was
utterly pleased when he nearly tore the back wheel off ona
wooden stump, and Miragays, one of my boys, had sense enough to
pretend he wanted to drive, and thus the mules were spared the
additional bad temper, The passage was interesting for the sight
of several lagartos basking on logs by the roadside-- a kind of
very large lizara about three feet long which has & very evkl
Look and lives on snakes, After being bitten by snakes it always
immediately repairs to @ certain herb in which it rolls and rubs
itself, to. return later to the banquet, The herb has been proved

on nuneroud occasions not to have the same effect when so used

by man, phen too I saw the almost pure white "ferreiros" a
bird shows the size of & flicker and with a sound just
like a blacksmith pounding the, anvil-- there ie. phe o5
sharp abrupt thud and ‘the persistent ring of the. maki.
metal efter, ae

This is a. “oountry of as great or greater vare +
fe by than the Benighted States, The change from one —s_—~
sort of hills to another ,from palms and bananas to pines —
and low ‘pushes is often sudden and quite complete, Yes-
terday for about a half an hour at sunset we were running

along among & lovely shiny sort of grass that was in the

 

mass ereen-gold, but at one angle caught the sun in a
light violet color, with the same glint that golden hair
will sometimes do, And suddenly again we were out. of that
region and in! among nothing but hill efter hill of the
deep green of coffee bushes, which are much more beauti-
ful (and this is no cringing tribute to the Anti-Salaon
League) as. a covering for hills than vines ever were, |
But I have a friend who writes me of nature--

 

and the wealth that I know exists throws the ‘paucity: of
his and hence my accounts of it well into contrast; per

haps you have the: samey~- boredom, on reading accounts
ez it. | ) . ,

There is a book by @ bird with the extraordin- :

ary name of Sigfried Sassoon, gotten out by Dutton, which

comes fiarly close to the Ware- and: should you ever have
ip about

the Glory of War, a few verses of Sassoon would do,
Dees at matter --losing your LOGS +. vee Be
~~ Bor people will always be kind, j /
. And you need not show that you "mind
“When the others come in after runtahig |
To gobble, their muffins and. egge.. ree

neff
i

occasion to- ‘take anybody aside and give ‘on a

 

Aials
Does it. matter-« losing your si ght?.sex DAs

' Phere's such splendid work for the bilha;
And people will always be kind, 4 Bosak dug tia

-. As you sit on the terrace remembering .
And turning your face to the ight,’ unter

and there's: another which 4s still one toes sai + vee

 

alae tae ee arene pusiness ‘eyre* and I sémetings —
 

“wonder it the | civil War was muh of a war after Rte: . they

   

all seemed to enjoy their panies ehewe: ‘80, good God:

e ‘It is ‘an’ odd sort of ‘thing to do-+ to stick with

 

strangers ‘ditt you know them and then to know that you never
will know then at-.all, and to sfay away from acquahntances 80 —
long that you get to think of then as fixed impressions instea

. of wondering. what they are going to do next, I doubt if ree
flection has the virtues currently given "in the pulpit

and the press", I have reflected much and haven even been
fool enough to write people that I have learned a lot thus.
but I ‘think that das’ so-genannte Reflection
precede things than to follow then-- and. I doubt if I. shall |.

know anymore from heavy solitary "thinking" than from the

is more apt to |

 

= half-conseious day-to-day hunches that go with a. hectic Anerie
an existence at home, Perhaps yes--- but not a shouting Methodist
YES that drowns meaninglessly all cL esent, It has a very
bearish effect on the stock of friends one has; but they
unfortunately become scarce as well as valuable, and I
“shall doubtless know again the rare and rather fine feeling
_ thatil had coming home from France, ( which is considered
pathetic and melancholy by some ) that I cared a damn sight m
ore. for some people than they had reason to eare for me,
for I had had no substitutes the meantime, and they ahd had «
Jw put the ‘poorest. interpretation on it all,
And along with the caring for people comes caring
net. ah all for all the comforts of living} which I wish I
could : care for, I had infinitely rather @leep out on the ground
| Under this strangely dotted sky and sleepily outline the Cen-
( taup ¢ as it glows above a palm tree than to ‘fulfill the
3 /\ current idea about where and how. the Chefe of the: Rocka-fell
a Poondaish should retire at night, Manello Patatisco 1 (local
= \tor Per tht love ov Mike ) So I sleep out «- greatly to the
lass of local Prestige of the Rockafe11 Foondaish, But this

ae 80 much nearer to « a real job than I have ever had betere

f.

 

 
that xugxhug§gxuak I laugh aloud to thimk I might be answering

 

telephone calls as to milk formulas or treating neurotics
with bromides and 'tact' if I werent a free lance dow here

in Jacarezinho,

Good luck and Merry Christmas

 
i November 12 1919

Cresciuma 3% ye

‘eta to widens a rather ruinous Hasty Pudding

theatre. in @ very poor state of repair with many banks of school
ne scattered cox ee it, my camp bed in one corner and a bunch
of r talian women with crying babies wandering through and around
it, a fat little officious Brazilian doctor making physical exan-
inations and a gang of thunderstruck Itélians| watching me write
<a saying "ora ! Ora!" at each move of this personal machine,

A commission of railroad employees are gasping "Nossa Senhora *

 

at the Sight of such huge worms as the microscope Shows then, and
ie flies are acting as the only common denominator of the crowd,
»_ We are, ‘working in a deserted church and the motto that is painted
on the rough boards is " Adeamus cum fiducia ad thronun Dei",
With some little fiducia(if I must admit it) I went up to one of
the few coal mines of Brazil this morning and examined about a k
hundre@ miners---but it aid not have the appearande of the throne
of God--rather the tower of Babel, Polish, German, Portuguese,
Spanish and Italian being the languages nesessary to success,
- oe The coal is a fat lignite type--with much pyrites, but
4 all in horizontal layers and also without any gas at all, so that
the mining is very easy and with no hazard to compare to what we
have, The companies have’ been slow to get started and we are on
and in the front wave of surveyors and exploi ters--yesterday I
saw the foundations of one of the staions of the railroa# being |
built and the only things in sight beside the workmen and the “vores
were a blue Bran plan and: a Winchester rifle, The trains to this
 “aistrict are running, irregularly, with engines such as the General
Beadle built in Leeds in 1881 and other treasures of maleoordinated
: stteel which render as usual the virtue of Patiencia a mere ¥ie 3
confused
~than-ever trait of this peopleg When the trains dont :
run way always have the hand cars which are run x two men with
; long poles and they pole the car along at a really ‘sirprising rate
of speed, They can keep up with a train such of the way, and need-

less to say the hahdcars are ana much better than the cst

 

a : er OL eee v ‘ * s
* ; : e
; 4 3 * : . on tg ~ x he: te fy : ; . ‘ $ ¥ ‘ 4

. #.-
travelling in the clean and fresh air,

An interesting wer I met here last night “Z a. Rumanian,

engineer who this time last year was a prisoner in Germany, He
was shot through the belly in 1917 and got well cheerfully and
apparently without much bother, ‘to get it again five times in
the legs. ‘He thought that I was a German and I thought. the same
thing of him so naturally we were very peasea to fini that

7 stature and blue eyes and a red mustache can mean other ‘things
in Brazhl, He is in great doubt about the future of Eurppe and
is one of the few minds I have yet encountered “lio sets a suffic
lently large value on the Bolchevist movement, It is amazing to
me’ that people who have been taught all their lives that the
Right will triumph in the end never atop to think that things
that last any time at all usually have some considerable value
and are not wholly bad----but I find many who think that there
is no advantage in Bolchevism at all, The Rumanian said that it
i was spreading just like Christianity--- a remark that has a strit
king flavor, Much of what we consider as important now will
be forgotten in the interest which Bolchevism will ‘aray to itself

in times to come,

Youve no idea what an easy social existence there is here,
There is no repression along our lines, One of my guardas re-
ferped to his amour propre as his character and I am inclined
to agree with him as I think it over, for there is no such thing
as self control, nor any idea of state service or the common good,
Work begins and ends when it pleases among the natives, and they
simply dont know what application to work as an affair of the will —
is or can be, My guardas are no end proud of the fact that they
are not as the others and are I think really grateful for the
discipline they have received,

Well, I must asian this drool and go back to mines, The four-
teenth member of a family of 15 has just come into the room to be
 @xamined, All Italian peasants at present 6 gaara here but, not
yet nnentiine Brazilian, I can understand the immigrant problem
better now that I have ween one, Te Alan, | ae

 

 
 

°

‘a

men get Up too, - Dawn was very. quick== a lovely, elandy pink affair

ready and we waited and waited and maited till suddenly at 7.230

 

The table nas been clesred and to the music of a huge

Gernan music box, which will play the Wedding March from Lo-

hengrin, or two. Foust Waltzes or the march from Aida, twice
without any encouragement, I find a pleasantly long Brazilian
evening ahead of me and nothing exeittng to do but dodge the
millions of insects that arrive arpund the lamp every night,
The day wae typical, Last night the local chefe politico
e rather pleasant apoplectic Italian, who is distincly first
in the little Iberian village, promised us three horses and a

carroce for four .ersons, to go an 8 hour journey to a place

called Aramangua, of which I know really nothing except that

4t 4s low and hot and that we ought to be able to examine and

more or less cure about 500 persons in about five days, The

horses and the cart were to be ready to go in the coolness of
SAM, Muito melior-----ete,. In @ miserable dark at “bout

4500 Big, Ben went interni ttently mad, and mostly for the sake

of example I ‘get: up quickly and made enough racket to nake. my w« |
sath
among very bright fresh green palus, ite are quartered in. a. de-
serted chureh | where we have finished examining 400 in 6 days--

nearly a 100% infection, So it wae to the hotel we had to go once

more to wash! and to get our coffee, All. bags, and baggage were

 

a funny little cart turned up , of a size to carry 2 only ,

and no horses at all, So I had what Cannon describes as " ten

minutes fury" ( speaking mostly my native tongue), and arranged
for the stereoptican to. go on ahead and three of us to mais
here till we could get. conduieac, Set Bonini at work on the
Parana statistics and went off with Silveira to the mines,

‘There we wet the Mestre de jiine, Sr Comacho, a little
Spaniard. whe has managed. a French phosphate mine in Tunis and
mines in the Andes, He speaks French, Arabic, Italian, Spanish
and Portuguese well, enough to be articulately angry in each,

and who- is ar interesting fellows besides. having @ lovely
adonne of an Italian wifes she Was Always. at me with a basin

 
 

 

   
 

 

Ci *

of water , a ‘fresh towel sae good Par

 

Py while

I was examining the miners:. Indians Germans ‘Slovaks |

Italians Portucuese Spanish Poles Russians. and Brae |.

‘After we were throu;

 

zAlians, No other equal courtesy under such conditions,

“he showed me a picture of the.

“Andee which Lookea. $0 much like Pikes Peak. from a. P

hlace near Glen Eyrie !

We went down to the nbs

and’ ducked along the stoop-shouldered galleries where

wet coal was picked out by big. pale tired.men, of all :

« pebae work I ¢an recommend for inhumanity coal mine

ing:- but after all these men have it easy compared

with’ ‘the: miners’ in “the U, S, -- for there is here no

fire. damp and the seans. are all horiz

  

 

almoco I slept. an hour. and was wakend in

much the sane way . imagine people Go to Heaven if

that custom actually obts. ins rig

 
 

E.

 

More miners examined and then

 

it in the middle of
erfectly satisfactory realities eich as dreans YOM
uge and inescapable " DOUTOR GRREGY an
ww eyes upon another world,

thunderstorn.

which caught us in the middle of the matto and sowe

took off these useless clothes and had: half an hour

in the buff, Then back to eat and play the

musicker

and talk with Georg Jonescu,a great husky Rumanian

_ engineer who is a kindred spirit from having been

very much ‘more than I in the war,

Then too but tent

 

after three or four months among, only those to whom

 

raise ranges all the way from biscuits to, aubrosia

 

.

+

ee
we

-

and blame or unfavorable comment ae between atupidity and

and deliberate ineblence, eae:

“Ahout 28 Ich lometers from here there is a: packs.

 

age of mad 1 for met all the news “Up to aehaner: perhaps.
others don't ! Like old clothes nearly everyboddy fades
to & rather better but less vivid shade, I think it is
when you you return to them actually that the queer sotty
effect @ppears as if a part of them was covered over and
thus protected, The great speed with which communications are
cut id a great argumont for living in your ow home tom isnt
it? And yet somehow or other I like toxsnatch at kindrdd spire
its and try to keep.them instead of wearing myself dow or up
to a humdrum familiarity with « fellow townsman who in all but
houselots and subways might as well be 500 miles away, The peo-
ple I have know and liked and now dont see at all are the oly
permantnt fixtures among my acquaintances, Queer effect!
By the 27th we shell have examined and treated about 2000
men women and yowling children, an@ will be on our way to
the German section Blumenau and Fkarxkanapakzka Bruske, Then a
month in the mountains and then a month in the island of
sta Catherina,
Well I burble on «-- " Easy writing Sir makes damned hard

<3 oy tt

 

 

 
ee eee
a

 

mh

Sl]

i a p
rate] ni TIYULVL EMRE ISEP ER BLERIE SEES ESE SS

1
}

 
 

1 cannot remember for the life of me whether I —

wrote you once before or not: my good intentions are of
such a vivid character that they pass at Limes for reality,
But at any rate I wanted to and now, having the chance while
people are not coming in very fast to be “exaniinéd-and treate
ed I'll take a chance on being a repeater, Tis at least better
than a 46h tinuciseosSiawe weed taping ieee clocks of late
and the lingo clings, 3

At present we are on a survey of this state to see
what fraction of the population has hookworm and how it ie
distributed among the people, I have five trained Brazilians

as helpers and & Baz doctor as my team, We have portable and

- at times insupportable. beds, railroad passes for anywhere.

 

that the RR. goes, ond the occasional honor of a special
engine of our om, and the wilds are ours for the asking,
We go anywhere that from a distance has the reputation of:
being a good place to find heavy infection and usually we'find —
it, Good-- we examine about a hundred people & day, treat the |
sickest, give & magic lantern show with lote of lurid and

forceful pictures: and sho. ‘em how to avoid the di wease in

the future, and later on if the place’ is valuable from @

 
 

- atrategic point of view there comes a gang of ten or fifteen

trained men nurses and a doctor undpr American direction

_ and the region is really cleaned up at the rate of about

 

“© 10002 month, Medical prospecting 1s what it amounts to,
ad 1% is” ‘pretty darn. good any °°

 

Day before yesterday | @ trip fron Cressiume to this

place up over eee low hills and down onto this: exbraordin~

 

ary smoothe pining, a trip on horseback beginning at 7 and -
ending ac 9 in the P in sunlight poisonously hote- but

with lots of exercise and diversion for all that, This is

oe ies low Sone nee. and i weld anny Tron ‘eivilization-- all along

 
 

 

 
 

 

 

cae

   

&,
od

the road I saw in the adobe houses women with spinning
wheBls and looms going about our great-grandmother 's
business, We stopped in a ruinous little roadside store
for almoco which is an elevn o'clock breakfast and after
the meal the omer ‘siad that his wife begged a consulte
ation, After I had talked to her and arranged for treate-
ment, I agked him how much was almoco, With all the

Zz;

bucolic subtlety of wit that you can imagine he said " AH
Senhor Doutor how. much is your o@onsultation 7?" I told
hin it wasnt anythinge-- and greatly pleased with his ruse
the poor man said "Entao. precisa pagar 80 2 cerve ja"

(Then pay only for your beer),

Iife is delightfully: simple here, The hotel .
keepers daughter last night returned from a dance she had —
been to and eae into the dining room, 4 very pretty
little North Italian and shook hands with all the, guests
ina grave polite way-« but immediately. brightened up
when somebody asked if the dance was good, It was eight. houss
hard riding away from here+- at Nova Venizia, and was
a big party on the anniversary of \ossa Senhora de Boa
Vista; everybody from far and near, eight hours in the
saddle as & preparation for all night dancing !. Her 8
mother every morning comes running from the kitchen «
almost wringing her hands with anxiety about BY, COLL AM
and I have been no Turk about it -- it's much. better
than what an xX would get me at the Ritel And such Uae
va. jelly! And cheese, Yo HO, | | |

On this job ali round the State till March and
“then I suspect to the North-= the Bahia region, the Brazil
of the geography books, boas and parrots and monkeys and
politics, ” |
Gosh ! This time enno passado I was in Paris

having an extraordinarily agreeable leave---"and now

just look at the poor dam thing". <5 dhs Ec cat

 
2
%

PM Geet | ’
‘Well it is a long cry since Sao Paulo where I
think I wrote you last or first or atk least once, Now I
have a wild ambition to write to a few of me old and hon-
able friends and tell ‘em what goes on,
This is in a town called Ararangua in the Sgate

of Santa Catherina, sufficiently removed from the ordin-
| ary cascades and whirlpools of progress for it to be merely
the rule to see old women seated on the floor of the houses
carding spinning and weaving their husbands and their ow
clithes and dyeing them with crude but beautiful vegetable
dyes, We are here on the usual job of finding out the per
centage of infection with hookworm and here up to the pre-
sent have examined in the three days previous 500 persons
and are well on the way to a hundred a day till our 809
are completed and our treatments finished, Thus wandering
on one week medical stands throughout southern Brazil I
have already spent 6 3 months and have the same amount of
time to go. After March I may go to the North, i. E, the
real tropics end see the Brazil of song and story, with
alligators boa constrictors and monkeys and politics ---
'n evrything. :

| At present writing in the Camara Municipal of the
town where we are doing our work and evry minute or 80 arrives
a new sick one--- the infection is close to 92% --- to have
me jab him innthe ear and punch his side a bit and ask hin
a few ddbboper ‘aucétreun and then send him forth wondering
at the sight of the first Englishman he has ever seen--we
make no distinctions between the English and the Americanos
here, They all have very red noses and red mustaches and
talk a very loathesome cutteral talk, There was a very am-
using but very pale little rascal in here yesterday with his
father and he didnt like me a little bit. He kept turning

to his father and saying " Papai, chega | Vamos embora !"
lachouta Wha They anh Bar vy.

i O~ f a

 
 

for which the translation is "fathers this is enough Sete
get out of here" But it has a funny flavor because. 'chega'
is what you say to a person who helps yew & tooo much meat
or beans---which is. frequently the case here,

Last night very nearly all night long I heard the wild
weeping of the father of the dona, of the hotel who was over
in aneighborly jail with senile dementia, weeping and or-
ating and yelling bits of the past history of Italy at the
top of a very a very hoarse voice, He was not a prisoner--
they have not the instincts for restraining eachother in
Brazil that we have~- he was just there because having him
in the house is a bit thick fot the guests, But Gosh what
@ hellish noise, SACRRRRAMENTO!

This is a high alluvial plain, the town siiidetlidinas
of pretty pink or yellow or robin's egg blue plaster houses
scattered round on one vest big absolutely smooth lawn of
bright green grass, No roads at all. Of course it is beau-
tiful and the distant sharp irregular mountains in a big
semicircle and the sea at our backs-- well I have only to
remember Commonwealth Ave in November to know that is mean
to go any further . But dont forget that until. you cut
your thumb you never knew what it was for--- and until
you go without speaking English a month or two and without
letters for a month ---you dont. know the advantages ef
Boston even in the winter time, I look forward to hearing

a word from you for this same reason and in the meantime a

 

very Happy New Year to you,

 

/
4
‘
|
F
  

It is nine o 'elock== the local equivalent of our mide —
sit aie ~- and I am finishing a long and rather busy aay, Next to
my cubicle & young Ttalian is having occasional epileptic con-
vulsions as & result of a brain tumor, outeide an Old man in the
mhni cipal jead 4g raving at the top of - ‘& very hoarse voige=-the
second year of a senile Comentia, I have Just been through & bog
or two on a visit to a man with a breken ankle,a woman with endo-
carditis, & man in the last hopeful stages of TB, and another with
spastic paralysis, ~~- Leaving four others $411 tomorrow, Today we
had a hectic time with 350 patients all treated to the cure and
twas the darnedest oo I have done since the walking wounded at
the 10 6.C,5, | A
I am doing what the old dadies think is a tremendous iy 4
lot of good ! Welle I know it is not hat ’ but it is a confort ae
to know that I might be waiting like a hungry spider in: the U.S, .
to do the same and then very aoubtfully to charge for it! I have
elven up the idea I once had that medicine is an honorable affair,
Why is it creditable to get. up at night, to have all the fleas”
that onee starved on & Brasilien, or to make long explanations to.
& neurotic ? A golfer cannot. legitimately pity himself for the
difficulties that make the afternoon worth while, In other words
this job is too good fun to be creditable, The big difficulty is
that the brain tumors stay brain tumors and the old man raves on
wo» IT somethmes think that Jesus Christ had it pretty easy with
his miracles--- it is no fun to have people brought twenty miles —
to see you .and then to be helpless, But the other worl which I
know is worth while makes a fly wheel to carry On by ==-+ and 80
it gees on, at times with great pleasure,
Of course the pleasant part of today Wes getting soue
letters fron home, One from you which wa8 on the edge of starting |
3 out for an A,M, and even in “poe of the indecision ever 80 auch ee
cheerfuller than the ones when 1 you tirst om home . -¥ dont. vant “eo
‘to. Anhibit them at all but the pas

 
   
  

the least real to ne at the tine=« whereas FOU bat:
* sttek it.
What do I think of the way the country received a

    
   
  
   
  
    
 
 
 
  
  
   
    
   
  
     
  
   
  
 
 

ot

and genpurten Wi2sonz " And he went unto his om and

 

his om received him not"s--it reminds me of that a
ae. gives me the same sensation, as I had oce-
remark to English 12 (I dont know how Cope oe
| ede into it), the game sensation you have at the a |

the Mass, Gen, Hosp. — when after staying up all. night te ak
trying to save. the life of a case of. bichloride: pois
gay, the ignorant family yneacy « at the novelty

and the atrentousness of your efforts decides that.

 

 

you. are experiuenting and that it is somehow wrong,
and proceeds. to take the perilously sick one home--<

you know to ate. But they prefer the know ‘to the

 

an to keep confidence in a Bal

 

: ov At takes a g
‘plan. instead of &, custom ¥ when there 4s a crisis at
hand, All good Will and ignorance~~- on the part of the = ‘hy
people in the U.S. and | Sophisticated ignorance in
Puen ns Os among, our Senators, | My God was there ever
such a& dearth of bra ins mixed with | charity! I aa pored
at the whole ‘tusiness, and @ good ‘bead, ‘more than bored
shen I think of what ‘used to be taking place in the o.
C, ‘8, But ‘how little aia : tnagine what Ypres must gh
been in' 15 from reading about it in Brookline---4t WAG
Ypres. that made me understand, - euppove it is the “sane

with Lodge and co, 5 think that at 4s prepostrous to

treat a President with sullen regentuent and distrust in
March when American solidity of sentinent eould have enabled hin
AMO dictatea decent terms, and now to accuse him of being
weakly overwhelmed at Paris, We have had our fling at
being Saviours. I never knew a successful | Saviour ee

was afraid of losing himself: Aneredulous Agnorant timid

  
No-one ever tries
oe a = r

 

o¢ Rete.z ~personal. Aberty Af rout se
“If you havent. there is always ¢ » governent. job-or @ relative ~~ anes ee

   

re the- money.

ih live on--- and the intere i: thing is- that when no- one Se

makes on .effort to progress there is absolute apathey Lo= |

 

wards any triat that 1e uuprogressive,-If 2 child of eight a. Beri

does not. care Le take the remedy . — then. the Hather.cays

| that, the meni ino N20 - GUePanm and there, is not even the implied
_apelogy of a shrug of the shoulders, They put people in jail
only shen 1t 18 not profitable in the real senae of the word

 

 

to have them out. “And you can do what you wk like, ches jek

Look. on and talk=-= but more than this mOtniNG « And. balit

 

An. educated man, ho cannot harangue is. NOWHERE, ft have heard

 

 

 

A elec Lg ; Wy

Mt, doc Remigio noua. forth on the cause of the failure of

hee = pine etl STS i - ee een ee ie

Brazil to take a leading place in ‘the world for 45 minutes |

ee ele ae

 

aba stretch-- fairly sreeching at, the politicos and their

- faverltism-s- and. the next day, he hints that. we must certain a

 

ly doug survey. of ‘Tuberao, for, it. As. the hone. tom. of ‘the.

head of. the, local Health. Dept, and. Dr Ferreira gust keep, hie
~ Local prestige... sar dae ga

Last night after it was good and @ark” _ went: with: We.
Padre down ‘through a bog and ‘through countless fence” ‘rail gates cos

to a ‘easual, little Sea” house shore” fared a," aarty: of) lamp in

 

 

: the usual sooty chimney-lese yaltenen of the caboclo, "a Senhor

a

Tiburcio!” shouted the: Padre, "sim Senhor!"" from a timid wo-
an who. appeared in he ‘doorway, ™ "Ah © padre-- pode entrar" iy
& trea liferess voice, “We went ‘in* ‘stooping and there on a’
ped in the inner room “lay an “elderly ‘man wi th his right foot
wrapped up in a vor aan" s ‘rea ‘and piaek waiat, very dirty and

“soaked tri whiskey of the local evil snelling ‘sort. ‘There= were

butts” of patiia cigarrettes everywhere end with an agtle énap. ae

 

‘of the wrist: the old man caught erickets as they sallie@ from =
- the mud- chinks in- the” wall and-dash- them to the far corner- +
—the- Pode: where with this repriuana pany Series ante the mud———

   
Rene NS ta 8 LOY AOOO ED RON A * *

.. they use here, Then. while.the hoarse..shouts. of a friend try-

chinks again, We unrapped the foot and there it was, broken

bn-two places-- the mete-tarsals- and very much swollen, He

had taken the wieght of a falling horse in a queer position,

I had “ commanded to be constructed" a right angle splint

which the padre had with hin, but there was no padding.

"Mariazinha ! Venca!"*said the man in a low voice, The woman —

ate

appeared and opened with here teeth a seam in a new quilt
and there was plenty of crude cotton, After it was fixed up
and we had had a desperate search for three pins all ove
the house, Mariazinha was told by her hasband to bring a

chicaras of cafe-- which promptly appeared: and we all took

gome, It is always strong, and. frequently very well made,

but this was queer for the taste of the crude native suar

ing to catch one of the Haaxsé Cavallios for the morrow

‘became progressively nearer we talked about some of the

- neighbors until it was obviously useless to nope for a horse

from Sr Tiburcio and so whe padre‘and i gow up and left,

And all quite without rancor--- because quite without
ambition--- a funny country, A long walk through the bog

in the blackest sort of night you could ask for-- to the
house of an old German with a ruinous heart and a very large

and mean family, Thence on to another family etc ete at the

hour of eleven I was good and weary but possessed of the

prospect at least of horses to get out the next day.
The next day it rained cats and dogs and we set out
at eleven instead of four and went all along a big river

pank with crude fishermans huts with distaffs and spinhing

wheels in use by countless old crones, and an old Xaron of

a native to take us across the ferry. Thence on riding till.

six on rather a smooth little single footer, Thank the lord
I am getting more used to horses; anatomically and psychically,

Pardon my wearinessofa the flesh. I must to

ped depart for it is 5 am we rise on these days of
_ treatment 7 3
- * en
ee Novembro 22 >

While the fat little Padre is wheedling, threatening, and cod-
dling his flock or various members of it into giving us the nek
horses they promised yesterday for the six hours we have between
here and Crissiuma, I take my Corona in hand---- They are afraid
of rain here and as it was letting down buckets last night as
wetl as atk the hour of our departure 5 am, our horse owners nat-
urally left the business to take its own course and we had no horse ©
Now the next hour is speht in convincing them that we really intend
to go,,,"modo militar" it is called,

Yesterday Was a parrbarridade, We treated 318 of the sick-
est people I aixex have yet am seen, men looking as if they had had
mortal hemorrhages-- weak and stupid they were and took a long
time to answer any question that was put to then, Children it
seemed by the hundred thousand, Gosh what a day! There is genuine
danger with people like that --- the obl of chenopodium may pois~-
on themseverly and I was damned uneasy for the whole of the after
noon, waiting to be called to haul some kid out of convulsions,
or the like, But today all is well and I seem to meet nobody who
is ready for me with the long cooling knife, Graces a Deus,

In the town of Ararangua there is not a street, It is one
vast level lawn 30 kilometers along the river bank, Little box
like casas at great distances from eachother, with a few trees,
and shining beautifully clean in the early morning light, There
is a big horseshoe of blue mountains and a wide deep river runnigg .
to the west of the town,I have been down to swim each day early--
there are few sensations so pleasant as swimming &lone at dawn--
I ahev had but little of it since the days at Saranac Lake, =

There is no reason for doing anything in the world here, The
natives just live and live, If it were not for their peculiar
sad streak and their hookworm they would sing, The women are
all sad-- but they do not kriow it..., I think they dont,,. but
'. perhaps you dont have to know it.

_ It is the fipst time this municipio has had a doctor for
a long time, and I have had countless” wrecks nronent to me to cure,

Christ must “ive = an aeay time-- at if harder to cure the in-

4
incurables by the modern
methods, The stethoscope
gives a prestige that the

results of treatment will

 

prove to be ill-founded,
But still, the hookworm
side of my trade pays
Splendidly for I know that
it is worth while, and even

‘the tratados wax enthusias-
ae

‘tie and claim to feel like

 

dancing for the first time!

 

We could have quite a baile

sometime here for 80% to 90% have H#,

ileal a

 

 

 
\

{
i
i

 
   
  
   
  
 
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
   
  
  
 
  
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
  
  
  

 

.

*

 

i

; .

eo

   

 

  
    

“Peace

ink terae of bl

 

     
 

     
 

Like a desert, wherein no single sound, nor smell, nor col

; *

preeminently claims attention, my world of this
limitless and full, with that innebiculate f

ness which without

<

ess, with that >

   
 

 

any natural emphasis is really perfect emptix

 

wandering of notes unstressed whieh 18 no more than any gentle —

 

numming mondtone, I have been reading the journals of Septeaber

  

and early Aucust and some of Oct rz; not as yet ancient history

ey

 

2

for I do not see the papers here,

    
  

ee

 
  

 

prophecies thatgglong since have been fulfilled or else have

the prophets an hours chagrin or an easy alibi. The European
news 4s depressing... "an ant-hill kicked to pieces by a fool",
y more than this, The Bullitt report of doings in the

*

tonfcrence makes me more of an alien than ever to those

 

who have had the direction of affairs: the deep chested ‘en, —

1 ae

whose clothing I used to cut off to their uncontrollable groans

were immeasureably “sold" by those in authority, Thank God I

; eR

     

 

a not in apron strings this Christmas to be led to church to.

 

hemp some preacher wriggle and maggot over 'Pcace on Earth, aad

Will toward Men' 1 I can get drunk or give a hundredtmeatments

for Hookworme- and enjoy an honester form of self-deception thus,

‘But imagine Rleanor, the suffering, and worse than thie the des- _
pairof anything better, and the sense of ‘being sold, Noryally I
am no penny dreadful, but I have no sponge of cheer to soak up

all this agbny, I do not read the papers becuse they are false
much of the time intentionally... ‘but I have seca physical suffer
ing cnough to know what goes on in Rurope, and I have talked to.

working men evrywhere to know that. their side te never

 

given honestly, and to know the bitter stupid revengefulness that

 

keeps on growlng-- and the ghastly lack of any kindly justice

to curb it all, |

It is the custom at home as I remember 1t, to think of m

 

 

     

       
      
 
   

 

 

Lom 4s the only normal state of
ee is ey

 

     
 
 
  
 
  
 
 
   
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
  

j

 

Rg

not have honest healthy days when despite a balance in. |

c(or even an agreement twixt the bank and your > |

 

“. : Te 5 ; :

ow check book), despit

-a good sleep and a good job 6 a

 

done during the day, you could weep for the world in
and still feel sane?

: its loneliness and its sorrow-.

 

 

*

a For me there 18 no question about it, and thus I can-

 

guine cult for their

honor that monotonously sa

     
  

_ worship of Good Cheer, Twould a better cure to have

. 4 A : '

somebody weep on me shoulder and try to console

 
 
 

ie } ,
* : i ‘ os. 3 os

out of the poverty of omtles than out of satiet;

”

® ? * : : é ay

We have finished the southern part of the State

 
 

 

 

 

 

and tomorrow start at Piguassu, goon turning nor the
ward for the work of December, The job goes well now,
9 row among the men has blow into clear weathhr again
1. and they have just asked permission for a day off on i
‘Netal' vihbth is christmas ! Not strange tho =
:. for it is no such day as we have at home-= and not ?
 wBually sagh of, #. parte here, We certainly bwill have
a day off on Natal, The chief benefit that I got out
 , of the row was Bonini'’s definition of "Character",
Here it is synonomous with Anour propre=-= & pleasant pep) , :
and penetrating comment on th amount of discipline f
here enployed!"¥rFreud in Santa Catherina" 1s another
“pook my publishers will have to refuse soncday-- tis
‘lovely to be in 4 country almost without repressions,
‘ tie toentine «0 quch of -man paeus Xite in one where |
hhe barbed wire was almost discouragingly plentiful, a

 

     

    
 

 
URES. See ts tte es Voge
PR Le ‘ ‘
fa aie * - * Wee
ih, - * ne tae ?
-

January 14 1920

“Hewan polis

. —-
* : a +

The western mountains are bright misty x blue, the
bay is rough with warm brow waves ahd tlpeups, the afternoon
Summer sun of five thierty is blazing in at the window of my

room here on the third floor of the Hotel lietropole,and I am
“much as Adam considered chic,in the warn strong and refreshing
breeze, with my time quite my own, It is @ three day rest be-~
tween surveys and I am in a civilized hotel with a lot of
Americans, good food and a novel of Gertrude Abherton lying

on my rather erunplea-sheeted bed, Luxury in @ word «= and.
depois @'amanha off we g0 again, this time to Lages in: the
mountains where there will be more of the wilds and the Weste
ern frontier elenent,

‘There’ ® been a pleasant flavor about the last few
days for the reason of being around with. a@ bird named Bennett
Reo Bennett a one time reporter on the New York World, and a
typical rover and raiser of the devil, Not in the roidterers
sense but journalistically, He.-was. the man that found there
was & group of patriots busy buying the rights of the old
French company. in Panama for 3 million and getting ready to
sell the same to the U.S, government for 40 million, and he
took such thorough Joy in showing the scheme up and just who
was in it(Roosevelts brother-in-law)for exauple) that T.R,. &
sued the World for libel..... but was glad to have the suit ®-
clared unconstitutional a year or so after-- and Bennett was
given the honor of a place on the Trade Commission to Brazil
~~~ which he has found an exceedingly profitable country. to
live in, being completely sick of the essence of New York and.
journalism, He is keen and amusing and I have a time with him
every evening, We have variety here in this hotel--- we, _
have @ miserable black-toothed little skinny Brazilian whose
chief Claim to distinction is ‘that he has spent a year and
a half in the Tower of. tondon, for being the paramour of the
famous lady who stole the plans of the British tanks and got
 

was shot, He, being & Brazilian diplomatic

 

them to Gergenx. she
attache was told iver to risk his. life on british soil agein
and so the world is somewhat smaller. than it used ‘to be for —
nam, We have a Sang of the General Electric Company here
naking a survey that will result in a street-rallway in this
funny little Capital, The boss of that gang I heard the
first. night I was here say in the loud voice of his kind, |
"But let me tell you the best fish in the world are the trout
on the Denver and Rio Grande between Pueblo and Grand Juction"!
We have the. Governor's one eyed. and. black-haired son with his

appalingly blond Danish wife, She can talk Danish German and Enge

 

aden, he Portuguese fench and English, They are confined to
a language they neither can talk nor write with ease or even
correctly! It is funny to hear them,

And besides that we have the daily parade out in front of
the Palacio of all the office-seekers in Brazil and all the
grafters. and all the people with an axe bulging out of their
_ pockets-- so ingenuously waiting upon the ell powerful Govern .
or that it is almost opera-bouffe Goverment, Government while
wait, The Conjuror says"Look at the dicky-bird"! (that isthe
beneficent Rockafell' Foodaish sometimes) and evrybody Looks,
and the Governor makes a quick signature with the other hand
and somefeller goes. away from the Palacio SO happy he ke has
to get right out of tow before He tells too many people,
Tomorrow I am Somefeller instead of R&@feBler and I want to
get the Gov, to give me an automobile in to Lages, and he is
going to say "Look at the lulu bird!" and everybody will look
and then I'll get a requieition for an ‘automobile, That is.
called Governmental Cooperation in my Report-- but it treats m
about 150 poor devils that wouldnt gettrested otherwise, i
and what wont a mother sacrifice for her young? Heh? —

The poetic thought ‘came to me this A.M, that St,
Patrick has nothing very much on me, I am casting ‘em out
of a country a good deal bigger than Ireland! Nossa Senhora

olha as cobras!
Lt-a8 true that definitions are always interms of something —
else. “hots of times the Flying Corps lads used to say that enter
ing a eloud-bank at say 6000 feet and after shooting along for
half an hour seeing nothing to steer by, they'd flash out into
the sunshime.... ¢o find themselves upside-down and the earth

far far above them, where the blue had been, That is what it is
like to come out of the wilds here suddenly and try and find out

where youre at and where the wokid has slid to.

Today is a perfectly clear cool day, a perfectly blue day
and the bay over to the Mountains to the West, is a soft ripply
yellow green, 50 lovely a place that it musts needs be the last
port of call and glimpse of Gods green earth for many a 49er on
the Way. to Cape Horn, and whatever that meaat, And a great place
for pirates in the days gone by. Ana a few Perkinses and Taylors
on the north of the island spell whaling vessels from New England

{Nees T sound like the Henty Books, but here somehow it is not
sO haad to believe in then, For instance one gets used to. the
caboclos taking off their sheath knife as a sign of courtesy as

they witer a house, Dulled to the ceremony one stays alime to

the possibilities implied,

Yesterday I had the most delightfully Ciara eye ee
Ive ere been puzzled because I have always wanted to do
more things than I really wanted to'de If I made a list I always
fell behing it, or cmme in like a poor track athlete, completely
sickened and exhausted by the technical vicopry. Then besides
doing one thing with a whole heart makes that one thing change
under your very hand to some thing different and bigger .Remark-
able contrast! Yesterday it suddeniy came to me that the desire
to take some execise. for example or to write or do some accounts
were not ambitions vastly bigger than .the energy ‘éo do then,
Quite the reverse id true: the wished are enormous but they can
only poke concrete little suggestions up through the crust into
our attentions, The thing is like a chick hatching--- the per-
sistent little beak of the wish suggests a definite act and

 
 

oe

Sd Se ree al a ee Eee ee

thus ohly can crack through the shell . THE THING TO DO.

. is to assist, voluntarily pick a bigger hole in the shell -

and then no wonder the deed grows as you g0 on with it,

Lastk night I just barely wanted to take a walk, and instead of

saying " Oh thunder I dont want to take a walk"! I sort of tore

open the resistance, reserve, repression or whatever it is, and .

pasking in the much bigger desire for exercis. that lay below,

‘took a magnificent and totally contented hour's walk along the

starlit peach, That's an‘ epoeheemacins! discovery... and the
crazy desperate part of it is that it is no more communicable
to you or anyone than the experience of swimming or fire or
anything like bin te: And yet a wild anxiety to talk i. omer:

I am swirling about in a gang of Americans here, having
a time before I go into Lh woods again, Last night I talked with
a fat porcine American woman who reminded me of lirs A, who has
lived here for 8 years and knows the natives well . she has
eyes like Bismarck's and yet with all her enormous eating and
driving power quite a lovable creature and the years here have
removed all conversational banis Not exactly with the light touch

but she conveys sincerity and honesty and kindheartedness, The |

marriage customs among the natives here are pretty sketchy: there

being an excess of fidelity over ceremony, Mrs Bennett spends
a endless hot days there on the fazenda making wedding dresses
that hang from the shoulders-- the next week to slave with more

justifiable haate to line the cradle, She told me---we were talk-

}

ing at ee how she and her maid were awakened oe night

after one of unehe paities, by a figure in the room spooping
tomapick up the dress and kiss it, " Probably the girl’ s mother
who died last year-- you know, mighta been PRMD Ler never kin

tell" she said uneasily. They both saw the figure, (Hyslopover)
 

a Lages January 19 1920

"“Engoliou ?

 

imgoliou?" (Did you swallow it? Did you swallow £%?)
. these loud questions my guarda or Gan-nurse shouts to a small
pallida boy who is strug

 

sling with a capsule-- trying to get it
down safely, We are in the spacious committee room of the Local

city hall and queer old Potuguese look down from the walls at the

 

procedure( the town began in 1794) rather amazed would the origin
als be to see the mal de terra actually being cured,, Por here in
Brazil the pallor and weakness and misery of hookworm disease is —
taken with a shrug of the shoulders and a great deal of well exe
pressed horror--- but not much 240,

Tam on the job of finding out the extent of infection
Aina region here in a region about the size of the state of Colo
rado and half of New Mexico-= travelling these last six months
constantly, stopping only a week in each place aid then after |
about five to eight hundred people have been examined clearing

out for another place, Naturally the experience has shown me

    

a good deal I never thought of before, and in this sort of a job
meeting usually with the boa vontade of the people I am ina
position to see and be told things that an ordinary stranger
apesnt get to see, After this survey is through with we shall
establish posts for the intensive treament of the infected in
the worst places, and by treating the people to &@ cure show them
what they could be having in the way of health, and with this
extraordinary lever inculcate the primary ideas of sanitabion
into them, The curious thing about it really is that the scheme
worke--- they are profitting by it and adopting Glowly the ideas
of hygiene, And when you reflect that it was only in 18659 that
: ‘the courts of Parliament in London had to close during the summer
: sO horrible was the stench fron the Thames fron poor.y disposed

waste, or that the connection of sewres with the municipal drains

of Paris was prohibited by law up till @ 1880<--« perhaps the

 

beginnings of sanitation here do not seem 20 insignificant,

But. omitting for the moment this genera) nett, wich

 
 

 

 

takes much of the time of my day-- perhaps sould be amused to
read of Other things less technical and more amusing,
‘Brazil is a mediaeval country with: the constitution

of the U U.S.(practically) ehoved dom over it like a oil hat
upon the head of a Roman plebe, tt ; gives rise to incongruities
a especially when the transportation is etil1 80 ineffective
that one region differs enormously from. the’ Other in almost OV=
ony way. The Brazilian is one of the most easily governed men in
| ny experfence, In an enormeous jan of people in Rio you can
always move easily by say "Com licenca!"-- and they always give
way, They cannot resist persistent and gentle pressure-- it
Wwearsa them out completely! They never will refuse any thing
done slowly and quietly, My employees when I give then a

a choice as to where they would like to work Look quite
pained and one began gently to tell my the custom in Brazil

 

Was that the obligation of the employee was to do whatsoever
the parao wished «-- and not to choose his service at all!
Imagine being lectured in @ modern state on the h obligations

» of the employee} But easy as these people are to lead like
children, they have had no expericnee and with their system

: of family life arid schools never get the chance to know the
technique of government of others, Governments here are strong
on just the same principle that little boys armies keep their
unity--- many titles and everybody happy--yes, a touch of imper
sonal ‘good of the service' and the opposition feels a sudden
‘accession of strngth and you are back where you were if not
even furhher back, |
‘Looking back upon the U.S, at this distance our national
interest no longer seems to be liberty-- more it is production
that we care about, The men who ‘menace liberty are excused if
they are producers, Here Liberty still flourishes and I have
never seen so high a per cent of people who ean and do do
suet what they like, And incidentalyy a producti on ao Bone sae
ately inconvenienced by that same Frectee.

But to leave ; generalities, # ges is ans the high rolling

oe
 
 

 

planalte on the other side ef the coast range from the low hot

 

coast line, It is midsummer but deliciously cool here, Frost
fell last month and in the winter they have it around ten above
our zero with snow, The lands are enormous and the life is all
cattle raising. Horsemen in big and beautiful woolen pallas or
ponchos, high loose leather boots, splendid horses and with
@ silver dagger if not a Golt revolver tucked a wee bit out
of sight, Rare women, rarer ladies, Coming in we passed ‘@ huge
herd of beeves being driven to market-- thousands of then, the
cowboys in huge hate chaps and leather lasso, The ‘screaming
part of this Wild West is. that they will ride leagues and leagues
to see and enjoy an American Far Ooest fila, They think that

Tom Myx and Dustin Farnum are eimply gode-- and like many anothe _
er thing in this Here” World’ the a@miring audience 16 more neare
ly the real thing than the actors, It would be more than they
could bear to think that hone f1ims( and the moving, pictures
from America are worth more than .our entire diplomatic corps

on

an! all the fool trade coumicsions in the works for the pur

pose of an entente cordial betwean the U.S. and Brazti)teould

‘be unbearable to think that in the Far West we no longer have
plunging bronchos and flaxen haired schooltcachers and despere=

adoes ote etc, But here I passed a bunch of horsethieves and

twould take some little making up to look their equals I can

assure you, Living under lean-to tenta with their Guarany or

Botucudo halt breed women; and horses! I should aay 60, a
scattered all around in the. beautiful grassy plain. where they | ; 4
were camped, a

The per cent of infection here will not be over 13%

where on theother side of the mountains down on the lovely

paluy tropieal 1s ttoral we have seen no place that had less.

 
  
  
   
 

than 8&8, Saver as 96 and above, And very very Sick people,
‘The practice of a eluilar form of belief to Christian
science is very common here, The Curandheiros or benzoadors |

can manage a disease very well at a ale tanee, end the Catholic 2

 

: prieste are not | far behing. A carandheiro cures but a denzoador —

    
 

 

 

 

 

 

are righ

or blesser can avoid such things as the evil eye, cattle
pests flights of grasshoppers ana frost, I know a priest
sho sola l&ttlée calico flags at five mil a plece-- value
here about (5-- to keep the grasshoppers off, They did
not work very well-- but he said he had splendid silk

flags at 50 mil that would work wonders! This being, more

money than a caboclo sees ever at one time-- naturally

4% could not be denied that these big flags are good,

I know ar intelligent American women-- even of the Bad)
followers are intelligent-- who here employs a blesser
for her ranch ond believes in him, She has eeen the cock-
roaches in droves swept out of the house after his prayers
and she is no questioner of HOW it is done}--- she wants
the results, Instead of people heing angry at such atup
Laity twould be better for medicine to learn what happens
and simply show if possible that with a pheicul cause it
works better to have a Bhakaazk physical remedy, Instead
of flying into. a passion with the people who have found

spiritismo to worka as well as anything else, For if we

 

t the thing to do is to prove it.

 

 
 

Lages Janeiro 25

It is & cool clear refreshing afternoon. wh th but little
going on. Silveira is sitting in the big room of the intendencia
wanting cards and talking with some of his fellow Rio Grandenses
and I have nothing to do now that the accounts are ‘ali up to date, —
p These big rolling hills with their sandstone cliffs arc. continu
: ally shifting color under the banks of rail bis gray and whi te
clouds that. go rolling over then, a few urubus well up in the
_ sky are circling patiently and waiting for something to arop dead
the lojas are all sleepy and the horses are awishing flies in a
lazy shade, sh i ‘
I do not suppose that outeide of Brazil exists the same
pure mediaeval spirit that exists here, A tall horeesman from Rio
Grande haa just come in, emi ling & most delightful clear and ure

" susptetous unpolished smile, alt. courtesy and gentility, not with

the greasy grovelling of the Saxon race but with a childish and —
yet selfrespecting independence. I cont ‘suppose: that his aasegusar
whe sits in the other room smoking a consolatory Cigarrette has
ever seen the railroad nor does Bhe know more than the squires
daughter in an England of L740, The daughter is bony and imperson-
eh mindeds and reminds me just a speck of Emma ilandell, They are
the people whose Simplicity of epirit makes this Job we are doing
seem perfectly natural to Che meee o= they always: have accepted easily
and with 2 smile of 5 sratitude and have given with less consciousness
= being & giver than any other people I have ever seen~~ and it
seenis perfe Gbly natural to them that we should he doing this,

Not 80 the more sophisticated-- who assemble in groups to discuss

in an undertone what this Commission is doling anyhow, If you wanted
an iliustration of what an open heart be worth you'd find it here,
The eimple people reap all the benefit that thex' wise’ leave in

suspicion,
*
The qmtrance of a cleanly and well dressed Aun peing
ints this consultorio nearly does me in! To think that there ean

be people who wash with a true Anwa:

  
 
 

ra. gon to 2. clean all over,

peole who like to keep their clothes all clean, who take the sane

 

 
 

AF,

care of thenselves that we usually ony to pet dogse=-that
causes a queer rush of tribal feeling to go over Le == some-
what akin to the feeling you have when when you, see a friend
from Colorado Springs whom you have always known and liked
suddenly coming upon you in say the fifth week of your

tay in the stock yerss re carpet cleaning cotablichaent

or. in the hold of a mackerel schooner , you straiten up and

A they look: Like nice pink and white Apalaos and Dianas dropping

down from another planet. “the Brazilian caboclo has an odor

of o1d old bacon, nna about hin-- it is so pleasant eo find

a somebody who hasnt,

 

I met 2, nice o1a German sho has been, collecting butter-
flies for 20 years here, He really collects the cucoons and
raises the Lat butterflies themselves==- eb in this way he
gets better specimens, He has just shipped about 25000 to
Kkrp Europe and has collections of 540 different species,
This I must look into, He was one of these people who eime
ply adore Ncture, They always have gentile kindly wives-- who
treat them in a motherly sort of way and ocoasionally a
oe with a passion for meakbne money--- just to keep the bale
ance in the family. He had, Nimrod was fond of hunting-~
but where 1s the man in the Bible or ‘in ny thology who mas
fascinated by Nature. This man Hudson, W.H, HUdson, whose
"Par Away and Long Ago" is a “very good description of that
disposition, is the best example I know of the sort of per-
son whom watching, Nature charms completely,

They ‘keep on coming-- lora what an immense varlety--

some giggling others erying, some trenling, OUET. appapent-

 

" ly without a nerve, some anxious to talk others on the de-

 

fensive and silent, soem thinking that a P.E. is moral and
above board others thinking that the medice is « necessary
immorality, --- what an endless varlety-= all in one little
municipio which has never seen ‘the light of day.

Day after tomorrow dom to Plorisnopolis en ‘to
start the vork on _ the Tina ¢ or Asland, —

 
}

Lages Santa Catm
Catherina

When I settle as long-as.8 days in one place I begin to
go dry for material to make letters out of-- and thus through
suffering, as the Character Building Books tell us is sympathy enga

_endered, and Iam able to forgive all me friends --- and in fact to
be more than a ligtle grateful tothem for ali that they have con-
tributed towards the fine work of Americanising me For indecd |
you'll have a rank furriner in your midst &2 when I return if 1%
werent for the fine line of uplifting letters and depressing news-

papers, As Mire Rice observed in a priceless letter not long ago,

4."I do not know what we are coming to in this country, The hunting ©

season has begun and is splendid fun? Indid@idually you seem to

: - prosper but the State seems a bit off ite feed,

This is a most interesting country, It iss 24 hours in-
and over the mountains by a Boowheek (Buick) automovel and like
Some little
time, _ there being no railroads. within five days horseback, It

's Virgin Coffee. ka has not. heen. touched. for

   

is 4 high Polling country and is nice and cold even in, this
midsummer weather, Last. month (comparable to June) they had a@ frost

and the nights are always cool, But aside from this real estate’ arip

the really intere ting thing io that the people are &ll1 well removed

f om any for of outside contact except Fox and Triangle Films from
the U.S. and the life is really that of the Argentine pampas, more

_ then of Brazil, There is a Reavy, Indian streak and no little negro
which ise mixed with Portuguese and Austrian and German , fhe men are
all horsemm and more or less gunmen and certainly. handy with a
knife if need. be, They very politetly disarm when I examine. then

_ and old cap pistols and 15 inch knifes. arent the rarest things I h

have geen,

The life is olosely aichn to that in Maine in those haleyon

months of the year when there is but Little fiehin', A ere
tall Italian doctor who got nie ‘boiled on beer yesterday says that
he is raising aoney for a statue to 6 Trabalador de hages" (the
worker of Lagea) to be put “P in the Praga here in tom and it : ’

5 ‘ a = \

oe

   
    
 
 

 

 

 

Be ee:
Ck se :
* Menlo eae +4 , ‘ Mid e - :
Meet e oe ae. 4 ‘ ? a ae
ee gee ss ie ah Ag Ra Ba Mh. 5 i Coes ue ae ae
Sree pee =e eee Subst aah ee say Hec 9 gh ST Df 2 ae ae

      

‘will be & tauro, He was a good 01a skate ‘thie Italian

and gave me a good many points on the local customs and

diseases that I ahd not known of before, All the old

schodl type of drinking-- refusals of one more treated as

an undebatable absurdity, Always crashing glasses on against
- the other and never saying Saude or any toast--- in a word a

professional! Which sets me to wondering what ia the

state of drinking at home, Is it much the same in the the

‘small pinces? I should think the dances must hove presented a
8 rather. sma aller number of Pranko Frenches and Minots ee
_ themselves into a corner! ‘Less "awfully funny" men for the
husky Priecillas to leap around with, |

“Which leads me by @& more abrupt transition to agk

you hows all and what goes on, It is pathebic to see that

7000 miles really is some little distance, But I do not ex-
pect to be gone forever-- so whe te the difference,
‘There is one charming thing about these Brazilians
that: T know I shell notice by ite absence at home... they are
the most auctile malleable tensile and polite people on the

face of the globe, It is nothing to 48k a kid you ahve never
geen before to g ona half an hours errand for you, &&he

Yast says "Peis nao" and goes, You could spend three weeks

as a total stranger in any one of these fasendas and have

‘anything you wanted-- and 4t would be all siiles and dignified
politeness, Really a remarkable thing.

Well here comes almogo in the shape of a little
nigger who'll say in a high cracked voice whth infinite

dignity "Oo Senhor Doutor a boia sta na mesa!" which litterally

means that the bull meatis on the table-- at times not a greut

ways from veing a highly descriptive announcement,

 
Plorianopolis
Febru: iry i 19% 20

I cot back from Lages on the 26th and have “been here rather
without much variety since then: waiting for the month to end and
my usual task to fall due of naking up all the different accounts,
This job will see me a complete accountant on the latest plan, be-
fore I: am done with it, T am really glad to find that nonthly
statements are getting easier as time , goes on, As I shall soon be
running a fifty-thousand dollar budget here it is about time!

All Last night I played a little bridge with the Westinghouse gang
here-- engineers a month out from New York-- and 2kn got a little
reat from the endless recibos and conhecimantos of the day,

But really my news is mostly of Lages- & hdgh cool place
270 kilometers inland where I ate armadillo jsut freshly cillowed
out of his armor, and. where t thoroughly enjoyed the energetic and
cheerful people, and their cold climate,

The caboclos there too were charming: this old bird was

all smiles and "sea-shoresk , They have
one delightful phrase ther on meeting
eachother, It goes" Ah, como vae! Coma
passa axSi Vossa Signoria? Como passa
Sua Obrigacao?" (How is your gentleman-
ship? How goes your obligation"?-- Ana
that means ‘your family!x' Another
point about those caboclos-- when they
meet they shake hands reach out. and
touch eachother on the chest and then °

Shake hands again! If on horseback they

 

shake and then pat eachother on the innej
side of the forearm and then shake again,
It is a solemn ceremony-- and reminds me of the College Widow of
George Ade's and the fraternity handéhakes tnéreor, The Cariocans
and Paulistas laugh, but it 15 no worse than ABeir terripie
embraces and scapula stroking! And the sing song of the talk
 

“
here! I never have heard its equal, Especially such a word
as obrigacao,

I diearned & delightful thing. dast night at the
table. Many times here if a general here wants a bit of @
show at the Station, or on the Street-— to show that he is
some body~-— why he can hire & few soldiers! They ga" OF a
rented by the asy-~ p

Think of & discipline 30 rigorous | ‘that soldiers need to.

 

r3, Ingleze_ver as the phrase is,

be encouraged by. pay for a little private parade, oh well
the Bos ton police hac the same idea in mind perhaps! It

Ls said that Brazil had officers enough for ten million men
during the. wary Privates were rather expensive to hire then
though, and vven the gallant, marines revolted when they

or EPR S «: bo their terror that they, were being, sent beyond. Ba~
hiat It is queer for us, it always will be, to understand
then, Why should the aireet descendents of a race thats show~
ed the world what @t1ectpline and. order. could do, be the very
ones to be. 60 > hopelessly deficient, in atectpline and. order
now? ae PoP eee
There is a man named Hart here in the Westinhouse
crowd who was in the Construction division of the engineers
in France, ‘gust the Gane time I went over he went but he
stayed 6 months longe hy He confirns the idea, I have of the
isolation from all home-keepers that, the overseas crowd have
come to have, He too cannot understand the Cabot Lodges,

nor can he find a real issue in all the row going on over
the League of Nations, I showed him the verse of Sassoon’ s

called the Counter-attack

 

The place was rotten. with ‘Anes: serine ‘adiiiaid: ‘legs.
High-booted, sprawled and grove&led See ee ere
And trunks, face dotmward in the sucking. mud
Wallowed 1fxe trodden sandbage loosel fitted, :
And naked sodden buttocks, mats of
Bulged, clotted heads slepy in the cee wate lime, -
And then the rain begane--_ the Jolly, old rain! |

+-- Of course having, experienced this we should. be
extremely cautious about binding ourselves as a nation to
prevent 4t, Hart and I "agreed" about whe
 

I got. a telegram from Hyaricx in Rio anata: that candy
of food Was there for mé to the tune of

 

and other fo: me
' ten or fifteen dollars te be Sung to the Customs House
peobe, I told him Le pay and. eat the perishables-- put I
- Hope that anything will ‘be. sent to 61 Broadway in the fmbut
reyare ite 30 much easier and shorter, The alfandega (customs )
is ‘the most irritating thing in ‘Brazil, and that is a pretty
handsome compliment, ‘ splendid isolation would be easier than
to receive a package from unknown source and then have a fat
mulatto official steal half of at and charge you for what's

kx wish sim would come down here and see what a, wonder="
oud social position the negroes and mulattoes have here, I
never , realised how neatly subjugated, they are in the U.S,
until I see them expansively eubracing some blonde here in
the R Re station or at 4 . & public neo tin o gt $ _— & coon
with any education ra come to Brazil-- they gain more than
they Lose by Leaving the USS. Portuguese is onay to pick TF
and the educated coon here is just the same as a white, One
of may boys is conpietery forgettua of color-- he never renen
bers to ‘wa at down on the census card, and all the rest too
draw almost no line at all, The trouble is that the black
race has no more wanderlust than an ebony newell-post and
they never will get up and do something really new,

That was & great find Mother made of her mosaic
pin: the mosaic law of chances seems at variance with the
common law, I wish I could find two or three of the things.
I have lost here in the same cheery way, I am preparing to
enter the needles eye it would 5.@em by the way things are
dropping from me, Develops a cold and ascetic attitude
- towards the baubles of this world to lose one P KN, ( pre
re nata, Mother, you never let a pkece of slang slip by, Til
bet you were fierce at 1S).
one month more and this Suitecase life Stops for &

while, I'd Like to have Elinor and Marjorie down here to.
fit up some swell little seaside bungalow and stock

the guarda-comidas (ice-box) with

 

mamao and abicate and abacaxi,
‘Then, oh then there would be

fruit eating and no more carne de
porco, Weel thats naw an eempossible

plan, however,

 

Florianopolis is a very pretty
and breexze-combed town, and there
could be worse things in February,

Having, sat here in the buff,
in a north-coming sunlight that
makes me wonder whether and why
I dont look shiny red like a thin
hand over a strong flash-light,

I will.now.snak down to the bagnheiro

and turn on the

crank marked chuva (pluva in Latin) and

take me a bath,

Good luck and my love to the whole Tribe .

 

 
Lages, Est.

 

 

Tees na asso

 

 

Eee

Me aes h aK

Palacio Municipal.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

i
i

ij a \g

I wonder 4f anyone ever mote --or could wite what. was

 

really happening to him? Do. you suppose 'tHould be comprehensi-
ble, or entertaining or vith the least value ate all-- this
complete fuse of binnen-leben with @ lot of sighte and sounds
and amells, Now take my soap tor example, I cant convey any-
thing at. all by saying that ay cabin on the. Hollandia going to
Rio was a delightful place, that I liked the roll of the boat in
those enormous shining blue. sunlit seas, and those suoky-burning
stars. that. popped out at night, ‘that Schweebroek | the steward was
ROO NE 5 that the food was grend, and that it was the first time
I had gone a-groping alone, that everybody on board nearly ex-
pected to make or break thenselvec in the~ ‘country | we were rolling»
to, I cant convey Lt at all. But if you had been there( my trunk
at full of soap) all that, would be necessary would be to hold
up this ceke I' ve. just. found today and say "! vember that" and
; you'd. say "Gosh! The Hollandia! I should say. aor".

Weil that isthe sort. of thing that living here 1s all
woven over Ber, thousands of new things . and. nary & chance to
call up wore by the mention of them than at best a weak Burton
Holmesickness, and. remark about' what ann interes ting!-da-da-daah
it's pathetic this letter business}

But of course thore are limits to this gloomy diatribe
against literachoor in comparison with perfume as a form of
Spiritual correspondence y For example it takes no very great
energy for you to, picture my overweening pride when I tell you
I was invited to be the Godfather of §he Totary Public! 8 oat
illegitimate oftepring-- a tremendous Cathedral service, 'n-

 

evrything, that, I, shad to pass up at the last, minute because I a

turned out. ‘to be not a Catholic, But you cant gay that the. I1lmo,

 
 
  
 

sr, Dr,: Alan Gregy hasnt. had honor proferred him in his Heydays!

But they hurried ‘out a& mere Brazilian “compadre" for the kid, ‘and
Coronel Jose ; Rame

wT, a
oe ame :

   

were able to OAS along without

 
   

 
 

 

 

 

 

or

me, I was bored rv ‘tears to be ‘incon and now th 3 x
have the being-a-godfather-to-a-?-0f fepring as a re-
pressed wish that leaps’ to my harried consciousness
every tine I pE maned by the church! ‘
Theré 1s a a acne of American engineers here ading’
the typical act: crabbing incessantly and talking with
endless beers Long into the night about New York ete etc,
How they crab the Brazilians! I am in’ possession of enough ~
facts and stories to work their yee into rabies grave---
, and it's a pleasure to work "en up to fever heat every
_ evening and send ‘em stambling and cursing off to bed,
It ip that there are few countries as thoroughly irrit-

ating 48 Drazil, to © person who makes no intelligent

efforte to anuse hingelf, But I cant miss the chance of
Gre:

suse men to a boil; they are so

 

bringing the
childish and so ‘provineial even’ as a New Yorker is pro-
vinclal, and 80 pothetically at the mercy of small things,
They are the sort to dislike the Notre Dame because the
chairs arent decently comfortable, Their boss was in &
charge of the first three years of the excavation of the
Grand central Station, has built a power plant in the
Pyrrenees 6tc, and has a very red-mottled face, very big
even, tobaceo-yellow teeth, and gets irritable if you dont
drink 2. cocktail with him‘ before dinner, He hae a curly}
lipped professional smile, and blood-shot eyes, and I xk
dike his directness--- but not much else, I think that I
dideve tad Bare?y wonens superior pity of men when I see
“ii Eldredge with @ listener, @ dependent, or a stake to
win, Women can be all three--- and Mr EF, can be very easily —
manage d ‘by the bird in the cage, Rabsner aR Tagore gets
off what would be a cute remark if it didnt” take him so
dong: "It is only when we get: to the point of letting the
pird out of the cage that we realise how free the bird

has ‘Bet ow on oS” Man eee ° BAND SORT

  
It is @ Sunday afternoon in a tiny fishing, village on the
coast of the island of Santa catharina s @ dozen } pickanninnies and
‘whites” are strutting about. under the palms wit! swords and 8linss
hade of sania stems, and our work goes slowly for the moment,

cam

There, are few things more simple than a Brazilian fishing village:

 

if they werent so cc it would be idyllic, these big Salling, cane
oes made from, one piece of wood, one
big log hollowed out, these brown, bare-
legged fishermen. stalking along in the
flate at twilight casting the big skirte
ike nets and dragging in the. shrimp
and dumping them into withe baskets,
the wandering path along the shore,
children weeping with hunger if the
fishing has been poor (for they are

absolutely poor here) and sick . yellow

women squatting in the doorways. or

 

making, native. lace. at a tremendous. speed
on. the wool. or rag-stuffed. pill

Out on the beach they may be making their twine on. spinning
jennies rigged up on the beach: the mother seated and surrounded
with children while the hisband works peacefully, and occasionally
shouts to the man at the other end. of the long twisting. twine--
while the pet. pig in a very playful mood bowls over the baby,

All this I sa

$9

last night and talked with them for a. while and

a

heard about the local. curandeir or magician who.can cure snake

os *.

bites by thought transference and force of will and absent. treate
ment, or write a benze. (blessing: for your roga that will keep

off the grasshoppers, and why. the, police came yesterday and caught
Esidio. “anoel ce Jesus--- and other bits of news, Then I came

back to the Club (pronounced clooby) and in true. Brazilian style
hung. from the windows for a. while. wabching,. the, summer sun's. <low

‘Le out over, the mountains on, the. other. side. of the. water, Then
 

 

 

came out a, pickaninny in the dusk humaing to himself,

with his rmzged coat t pullea up over Ais hea@ and quite
umeonseious of being matehea: Roun kha rbtnd he shufriea ”
“4n perfoct graco and rhythn, thudding on the sand with

 

-- just like the samba that the negroes’ dance in the state
of Rio. He must have _ ten years old. ant Yet he’ thew the!
“quéer steps ane time , “the halts and the thuda ‘and tie
wheeling ducks 2nd bobs" and nr and danced. to his
African hearts content in the dusk,

+“ Went dom ‘to ‘the shore and found & bit of beach

 

where I lay and waited for the moon to come up over the
mountain behind us, And finally on the slopes across the
bay the air vegan to Look like a Liberty veil and the moon
was up for them I knew, so I went in and took a swim in

— ae ae ene pearly’ flashes-- the half tropical

 
 
 

CP Sse Water almost dazzling,

floods SEW? dA eta elieee of the casas here,
oly has been a Great seven months-- I have seen more
variety of things and‘ minds and customs! And now Comes the -
carnival four days when the whole of Brazil putes on ©) mesic
‘and becomes all ‘but crazy, end when ‘there is no more chance
; for vork than @uring an earthquake, larai Gras is nothing to
the carnival here, Then Gn Mareh I ait Going to Rio to speak
little Bnglish--- and then back here to get thinge started
nere controlling ‘the hookworm and eAtYinalariad work, ain
administrative work, , “tae es
You should see the way people talk-here;: it is alle
done by hand! Wigeling the fingers in front of your mouth
means hungry or cating, holding a flat palm at the level of
your’ waist, with palm 7om, means I am very hungry,’ rubbing

 

thumb and forefinger together means money and riches if the

 

.th the palms up means yood-

 

 
 

bye (which causes great confusion with me), forking the first

two fingers over the other hand neans Io got on my horsé, and
snapping the fingers menas I beat the horse and-@lapping the hands
sort of on the bias means I fled, The big thing is to talk with
your whole body-- and’ I have seen & man use two rooms to tell

a shory successfully, Their anecdotes have one curioud feature
there are always two climaxes and the second is always better than
the first! And of course an enormous stock of sayings and sort

ve an amusing flavor, "Why. does

§

of nursery conundrums that he

& rooster always shut his eyes to crow?" “~~ "Why because he’ ak

knows the song by heart". "Why does a dog enter a church ? Be-
cause he finds the door is open" (they, «lways say this when any-
body is too Willing to lay down the lan about come thing he knows
nothing about),

They are very fond of cninnina’s nnds here, You never
ed leave. a room in a private house withe
i out shaking hands with everybody, nad
if you come back withing a half an hour
you have it to £0 211 over again,

It is very wrong to leave anyone with-
out saying "Com ligenga" and when you
pass anyone you always say in the weare
lest voice you can manage (for fear of
startling them) " Boa ¢zde" which is
gloomily answered and the deed is corre
ectly done, All this process is being obe-

served by a gang of awestruck natives

b a

a

whe have never seen a typewriter before and are therefore the more
itnrigued, It is also gre't fun to hear then as they look through
& microscope at a line on a piece of paper:"Veejee iaria!" saya

& young thing of 18 (Virgin lary!) and a ren With terror at
the sight of a worm,"Moasa Senhora olha as cobras! Barr-barr~

i+ dade 1" We have just shown them a flies leg-- perna da ansca

which one native thought was a perna da moga (moga meaning leg)
rt

neiden) and he wanted to know after looking carefully through the

ae ee Ain ome a +e pee ae ¥ ' ot Thay ot & Ca Be ee. + %
mkbroscope where the maiden was ! Muc ch O14 English merriment

—,

fb ete ot

ome es a e my Wy one ae oo ed ' e SAT) €. T¥3 £5 7 ay Ty f (4 ears Si
caused there OY » Which remin ied me of one time vwhnen Dr Rosenau

had some of the more politic ally ineliz

e-<
jot
{2
f
jontich
©
Pty
cr

‘he Boston Board

of Health to visit him in his laboratory, He xne

w they were

fe f * me m * a en » en 8 ens. tt att om _— $.. Pn “> a, as ae Ps
coming ana arréen; red three Microscopes One Wit~aA & CicaYr 11040
¥ ; wt

@* ‘ee Se 1 | oe oe fm a ny oe aay eed Ae “Teg, Bre ey HR y See vay © ee i gi par a 4. 7, es er
O 8 Yio {,! ling, aT Cr 1 1 sd } gd Gi ié 6 tne z, yy > vi 4 bid BO tiie hi rij é

wae

%e

‘ * ia > " i ila i, Bien ee? > + em #4 . ey FSS oa oy roe 4. Yo “
Arrived a doctor at the ompty microscope “nc peered down the

GX-

£ ae "a i Ti te oS ye * on™ » » i, 2% ey ? my, * et s e ge o, 4 * i ay a of om, € #7
parrel ,«-= Hieo by George that's a beauty eh Doctor’

—" ile wn on At ogee ati, "et “ ds. Ye ~ % a £2 ms ee Me ot

In comes a girl of twenty <-- motner O21 five ana
& ne , isiin, Aaa & he aaa re ot, a@s gt — “5, en 4

still very pretty, wna @ country!

‘sy ns “ery 1 , f2 3 1% Put ot ay1ti ri th
7 50 Lne Wo J 4 i md y oT dn tA Ui cL AA Vi ie bs

 
 
 

  

" -Riberao

ne
* &

“Pe ee ' oe

Your double ds here and you ahve ro. more chance in
the world--- because youre way off and she is right here! I call

her :.;

 

=~ which she cant pronounce, bub she smiles the way
you do-- not Just the way because r*il admit nobody can do that
-- but she sililes and promises to bring me flowers very soon,

And she has just sata of your Cigarette holder "Que coisa linda =
para um mogo tao agadavel!" and you have 10 wore idea how that
Eka sounds j ‘ghe thinks " What & ‘beautiful thing for euch an
agreeable 7 OUnE fellah"! and she says it right out with u fright-
ful sigh at tne end, Last night she saad "was ---que boca linda
hc ‘tem dentes quebradas --neniaua! " (But what a beautiful mouth

you have, No broken teethe-no not one! ) She is twelve and she

 

is the original cheery spirit frou the forest,
Last night we danced--I didnt dance I was the orchestra

 

roaring, Turkey in the Staw ana beating Upon a tin can to the un-
limigzed joy of twenty small i kids many pickanhhies, “who danced
three and four rounds without the least exhaustion and then came
rye begged for more, I sang ‘em the Pig ae ard they called

4b uma especialidade and shen I bought a whole mid reis worth of
candy they all ahd to say good ndght three times and kiss any hands
fervently with many wishes for good fortune in aarry ing the wost
beautiful lady in th 1e world, I line of simplicity and charming
manners that is hard to beat, When I read aloud in English they

 

screamed with pleasure and begged for more, and ran wildly up

and down the beach FOrIIng for thetr monies to come, and

   
  
 
 
 
 

hear 0 Doutor Glegey. i ;

Yesterday I found by the roadside an interesting plant
that looked like, 6 fern but if you touched it ever so iightiy it
Closed all the Mitre leaves and folded its sven Phgnt up 80
quickly that you, had to pinch very — to catch a leaf open
between thumb and, foref inger, ‘8

—— ‘You have heard of phosphorescence in the tropical waters,

 
 

  

last night | as usual and never have |
150 Americans, And not one.

rad i i

us . 4 oS i

= wea Pa — —

ae aloe 3

*

’ ? i “- + &

cate ool 3 $5 608 and , ghybaie to

He A.
x

where in the world the World is,

My enenorada. is asking if I am single or married !

sya T am bored with her---1 shall have to close and

x
| %

 
 

een

| Flortang;

 

Feb, 16 1920

At home we ‘think - we have quite a earnival in ew orleans

on Marat Gras but ‘there is nothing An ‘the world chat can ‘touch

‘Brazil when it comes to going orazy in carnival week. That is

what at is hers now and the ‘barouches a a automobi 1es already at
6189 in the Palle are rolling through the streets Loaded with
singing maidens, to 0 up to the publi square and. wheel round and

round, while the word stares ab their costumes ana ‘throws paper :

‘Streamers at the 300d Loikicing ones, That ‘koeps up steadily bill

about Q Peus when the big dances begin ond the crowd in the square

. aimini shes. a Ait ttle, Thi 8 is the second daye= ve have one more to

goer, ana all the Sundays for the past two uonths have been Baar

carnival in expectation,

But the thing that gives it the flavor is the custom of having

oe battles with ethyl. chloride eprays-= sues. Like ‘what you have in the

0.P.D. only that dissolved in t tne _sturt is good otrong perfume 1
Well everyone has these things . oo everyone and the fights are on
every minute, Your —_ as a Lotharto is to get some dow the pack

er into the ear of any virl you choose, ghe does the same in self.

diffonce, and the BULL. OF PERFUME 1s AWFUL. : never have imagined
an atmosphere like that of one of the sporty clubs (called cloobby
here) last nA Gas where I Wes at the dance, It was as hot as Glass
Day but entirely indoors and evry minute these vile perfume squirts
going ea1d over yOu. My_ coat still smells ag George Biegler used to
say of similar situations "like Mary Gardens axilla" and. there is
nothing to do but wait untdd carnival is Overs BUS at is a blessing
in ai agui se-~ for we are not ‘without socially sneegee negroes here
and perhaps fleurs at amour 1s to be vreferred, I an too vise to.
want to rick my happiness to fleurs d' Senegambia,
Well, since mriting youmny last letter much has happened,

I have about two more weeks to Ge to finish the second survey z

   

made Ports. ‘The first we Gs a region about, tine size OF

  
 

 

 

 

 

*

 

~

 

®
‘
¥
eae aay ache

 

 

sn

has passed

 

to fore

getting the game,
I was very glad.

 

 

Pic tater Fey
x

ei ster-in-lam

for the yeur 1020,

positions

.
4

wate

 

 
 
   
  

 

By

 

 

% Meh eo ies

2%

4 aa
Rei ,

a in, this oeaie, ma

ae

since I eterte

:

oe ee

future lire Harding) comuend her, she

 

rence 9

   

*

ai tgree sake
No Mans Tana t)

. ola

se

ry gee

=

 

 

 

 

 

Lous of. ‘the | tia?

 

 

 

 

 

 

, ie

oy FE

ar present ignorance te anything to go by,

Lae *

eS

eS ate }
ee eS oe 5

ce eres

  

-

 

 

 

 

wong gat + to lea.

eas

 

  

  
 
 

ne

  
     

me, In ne nts ime ae I ea ey es te

em sé

oo bgt gS
lee

 

.

ight dancing with the dark eyed Senhoritas
this, I never supposed a man could
sweat 80 much, clothes that it certeinly takes a very” merry even-

They dont dance very well: oné his to fail back

ee"

on memories of 22 Gen, end ‘Kitty Van Buskirk to keep from fore

 

Eee ar a ase PCE SES very’
AGe 4: new the girl I could come fairly close to compliment=
ing hers all t iow ef hey. conduct and Juigenent thusfar ( al a

must be ‘Steve Sabine’ Ss

/

another year of the war of

,

“by ‘ the

*

an American surgeon, The

wre mostly) are to be found, 16 years from

now the American colony in Ro will be bho ‘enous a to support

a girl: at ia fairly near impossible,

 

   

 

 

 

“

   

 

 

7000 wile

 

  

   

 

 

 
 

ice Hn tH

 

taey can, stand en awful lotta s, cause

its a

sue

 

they t

 

be, good, depend a 6908. eal nore than, we. Ao. en,
old friends and ary-goods, otores and... -gubaide. diversion:
which. arent this. country" 8, strong, pointe," ve. seen, too, many
perfectly good women tiring themselves all. out here, who have
enjoyes, life, in. other, foreign. sountriessnot #9 ye. very seopt-
ical. ef 4% here, cae a z him osap’ ed

Since November the first I, have: exangned., 40260, people
for, heoksorn.,. malerip2 history end spleen, ondargenent,, seen to

- % is 2
obo Bane BETS. edie ey PA pee

onéller state 56 Santa Sethorina,. There saxona, are. & number of
interesting things. about, this. publi¢ health games the one that

3000 ond, treatuents for hockwork ‘and,

ki Ms wae ale us

 

 sppesls. to me ‘the most 48. shat, with; a ‘dbbere, Anstruetion er.

the patients: dont have bo. have - the disease. aL). over aged

 

and the general utandara of living is coning Up 2, bit ae a

result of instruction, We have. explained the whole inns te

 

about, 2000 people and | Hackett haa. certainly got the vovernnents |
stirred up toa great pitch of onthushasn, They” are paying a
very tidy part of the freight now: and we. atoy on running the
works, I'11. stiek in a card we use &9 give you an ide ay the

numbers in the righ

 

t hand corner are for the heighta of all
under 21 and - an coing LO have some interesting figures on

the influence Of hookworm on growth when \

 

gat tt me to sit

down and analyse 10000 cards, The teve use (oypht as history)
is. very | generously filled out, ‘There fe no ‘such: thing ao

if

reserve on tl that subject he EDO | se hs ee
‘The Bosch. ie herein eres . nuaber's | ond quite umabash=
ed, I must aay t get fea. ‘Up bo the: teeth Ii stoning’ to the

German I hear sp soken everyuhere here. But ‘they are here. to stay

 

and m4 x in vith the Brazilione | -- 80 that, you dont have to

worry ‘much : about their future! As Gernans they are iat much
beloved by the

 

prasiiians-- but their Andustr: ousness and tech
nical wnt

    
 
   
 
 

*have been talking with Reo Bennett again and he is certainly

| interesting and of an overwhelmingly interesting period, eee

was on the New vork World at ‘the time when the Panama Canal

Was being worked out of the hands of the old French company —

and being made ready for the use of the U. 5. rt happened. that at

_that time a pair of New York engineers(for names see the World
of that time) backed by Joe Leiter formed the Hackensack ilead=

ee Company to drain Buttermilk Channel and develope the Meadows

"for factory sites, One of the engineers had had the contract for

the Croton Dam for the city of Bex York and was naturally in a

position to get a good many good things under way and an access

to plenty of Capi tal, Bennett was employed by the company to sok

the secret of this Hackensack company wie ck me the arrangement being |

that when the stock reached 75 (from 12) Bennett Was to get some

¢25, 000. fox his Joumalistic services, Well it was accomplished

after Bennett had promised a good ripe rakeoff to a number of the

Newspapermen of his acquaintance who had given their aid. going

to collect his o25, wes he was told to get out of the of five of the

engineer, and naturally his friends being somewhat suspicious __

thought his failure to come across was due to his desire to pocket

the whole sun, This made him thoroughly angry and he went over
the ground to get something on the engineer, W .Barclay Parsons |
told hin mPa the Croton contract and he found that the other

engineer was under 17 indictments for peonage in Tennessee alone ,

Then came the bids for the Panama Canal and this firm of engineers ;

was the lowest bid put up. Then Bennett's time came and with Bar- —

clay Parson's help and that of Lindon Bates he started analysing ~

the Panama plans and so successfully did the destructive criticism

work that new developments came along rapidly. It appeared that a

compny was well underway, to buy the old French Company out at
3 million and sell at 40 to the goverment--patriots all, Douglas
Robinson was in it, Pierpont Morgan was in it, and there were a

good many others who wished like the deuce they werent in it,

 
 

aes
fg Sete:
Sc eee SS
Sake te
oe Saar
es
ee F ays

-Roosevely sued the New York World in the capacity of President_o

_ _______of the U.S. because the stories of the paper were subversive to __

 

_skipped to Naw Paris where he_ began. wpe French information.
against the day of his extradition,
; _Alfred Henry Lewis telegraphed him to come home, and_
ee time he was taken down to Washington to see. the, Colonel, a=
___who with a bottle and a half of Scotch to the three of them, _

“began bawling out Bennett who began giving as much as he got. _

 

he upshot was the appointment at a later date of Goethais and
_____the Canal put through on entirely different plans from the origin
al. And Roosevelt offered Bennett the job of Brazilian Trade
Commissioner--- and the world has been quieter. ever since! As B,
tells it all in all a fascinating story,

Also the story of the sewaueoat joker Cyrus G Ward,

 

: At the Times bar all the newspapaer men had to congregate because
a eae was ‘too close to their work ‘to go anywhere else as easily.

| The nee. Was notoriously tight fisted and the newspaper men

Se eae ee

 

 

"decided to get pees So one day one when a fine old man was dozing

in the corner one of the reporters lifted ‘the cane and hurriedly —

 

_ bought the appropriate tissue seeper etc and made , with a11 the
C aemeare an atroctously sarcastic ‘speech of ‘presentation to the

parkeeper- - which he took as being» genuine and ordered up arinks

 

een sca bisheartcnd rl Mae ae was put in the window, Then ‘the
eee eee back and, “ae: barkeep was sold, When the reporter who
bee had pulled the trick came in the barkeep said: "Well you got ae
. ee ali right-- but 4s get you yeti" thr reporter came right back i
“What! you let the old bluff have your cane that we gave to you
‘Why that was Cyrus G Ward and he bet me $100 he could take the

cane away from you the same aay we gave itt" And again the

 

barkeeper bit--and rushed out ce ‘find the true C a; Ward in his.
office and tell him where to get off!

 

discipline at West Point, or some such strange suit, and Bennett __
- gorry for the people who Rhwe 1t as you do with most diseases

 

Bennett considers that the joy in being a New Yorker is a _
disease, an interesting disease because instead of feeling

 

th man with this disease feels sorry for the people who

 

haven't got it, The disease of being a Brazilian I have not

a I reassure you) succumbed to in that intensity, I still feel

 

. sorry for the people who have it,

After Pebruary q shall go up to Rio for the begifning of

March and then return here to live for & month or so in the

town of Florianopolis establishing the posthans here for the

thorough treatment of the whole population, That will see me

well into the month of April and probably into Mey .

oe I got gome clothes yesterday from a tailor in Cambridge
with o, note saying that I had please to let him know if the

clothes: fit and he will then now whether to go on and finish

dated JulgZg Srd! It reminds me the

 

‘the order, The request was

way. they recken, ‘the dis tance of starg-«~ number of light years 1.

rust you got a check from me recently for all of the loan of
April 21919. I cannot bear to have America remain the Banker
of the World too long! Us reconstructed countries arent always
ain. the dbtors--- except in the spirit, The only
‘period of time in ny léfe that I cant remember being grateful

 

to yen you was that time you scalded me in my bath tub,
| Luckily the scar is only mental! Mavvacs quart J eau
We “have & telegraph operator here who has malaria abel
and that was the reason I didnot send you a telegram on the ™ 4 rh roi
—

sreat occasion recently, When the chills are upon — la
i

knows what he \mi.cht be understood as trying to say, It has /
already been \ the despair of thousands here--- but what can

- you do! ‘

"i
yi

fa

\ ‘ ‘A

Your lovink brother —

\
Be

Chefe da Commissao Rockefeller deste Estado
Cee
ere re SS

‘ rae) Ne
4 > tx

%
i
w
x : 1%}
£23. WG :
ae ae
. vs id yp
j 4.
a
—

 
 

 

 

 

 

Lek

 

ie

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

     
   

reeeee

hie.

 
BES a EAE OMT ae
dit” > é ih gee oy

: I bhve just been out in the backeyard snooting
with a bodocue which is pronounced bawdawek, and. trying to shoot
as straight aS the natives-=-— which ae nopeless, It is a combina-
tion of a sling and a. bow and it looks like
this: but in stead of arrows the natives —
use dried clay petlets which get very
hard and are easily hard enough to kill
birds with, The natives are so sure that
you can throw a tostao (a piece of money the
size of a quarter) into the air and they
can hit it.

Then too I have been playing with a roarer, which
is @ piece of horse-hair twined thus over a twig and at the
other end at tached to a hollow dun open at. one end so that the
WRBBANE, of th e horse-hair ‘makes & very loud noise,

“When I wae up at ‘Lages oe which ‘ss | place “you can
perhaps find on the nap about 270 kilometers west of the island
of Santa Catharina, ~«- IT ate an armadillo and here is his picture
before he. was eaten, They are very hard gasp
to catch 18 they once get into the en- 1
trance of their nape because they
bend over and the long acales stick
out ot right angles and erip the walls
of the burrow, The meat is very sweet
and they are rather rare now as @ result,

I got sens skins of ante eaters
which are enktnd tanandoa a pandeira
because their tails are S09 big and
wavy they look like flags, one I saw

was almost the size of a ‘bull-nide

 

and the claws were huge, He has ‘three

claws on each foot and when he fights
  

‘ Boo ¢ . : ihe

    

rie

talons which

come

embrace---

      

we Fy tates

more enemy is

      
  
   
    
    
   
  
  
  
  
  
   
  
   
 
  
  
   
     
  
 

¥

  
   

 

sposed |

tee

- . nee ei

 

 

Pikin.

#
4

ey

ri? eee mel « ‘ “ ee

5 & 5 zi

 

  

 

isappear inside when he draws it in happily,

las are queer trees for if you cut

    

 

 

 

ut

nest morning there is almost a foo

&

tig ep

Pty:

 

 

ara 2 aie ; es —

ready above the level of the cus, I didnt believe thig

 

 

 

ad to be shown, They mow very well be-

ie . “/ i oh a. ‘ti ei: «

 

told me ao I ha

cause after one bunch of bananas has growm on a tree

- 4t wont bear any more until it is cut dom and a

ows from the same root,

i. 5

 

 

 

gue _

   

* . :

   

weds

Up in Therezopolis I met a German

 

FES gm
ns 8

 

5 th thins

ah % K . OF Ne fhe a Ea . ste - ‘

  

eR ¢ “ bs z
alas ee im , ; whe « ‘ Rite Me

om the eggs so as to have

‘s ™ ae " ‘ a

em he had raised f,

 

¢ Lee > 3 ie

perfect specimens and his collection numbers more than

ee 3 ey 3 ¢ : om Ff . rot : ig Pr as

aise “apy z "

532 different kinds, I do not think that in the U.S,

swe have more than 100 ian

a it be ‘ , ‘ \ —

ies a

you can see that he has a very fine collection,

 

 

ae *

Pica , which is

  

be wearing a

> a

. ient) she would certainly

aad
wet sche ; #

. ee : f

; the thumb tucked between

#
% 4 ; 47 wt

+ OF ome ee Ae i‘ : B ‘ %

‘A

a
4° % ’ a P

; oe

nd closed over Lt, It is gust the way my Mother

 

 

« p

 

the figa is always the instead of the left.

Faith Bemis used to sleep that

se
©
* “ ‘

. eR ~

 

way when she was

  
   

 

heli ove

* he

 

 

    

laying his long

oot of new banana plant «
when they

who has spent

26,000 to Europe so that I guess he is pretty successful!

are at 211 common-- 60 that

‘If Elise were a Brazilian ( which I am glad she

the first and second finger and

a hand ag ox carved out of coral or ivory or ebony, with

8 food as you

“seize it and suddenly

 

years collecting butterflies and moths, Last month he sent

     
 
   

one down the mex
le

 
 

                
  
     
   
     
        
  
  
   
    
   
   
   
  
   
   
 

toy ee

 

£8 , } * : es “Ee

 

 

      
    
 

   

 

ord it har m 1 ‘ “skir They wade out : a
low water and fling it very gracefully and skillfully

    
   

ds all spread out aid sinks in the water in

 

 

 

   

     

 

 

   

e of a cone, The frightened shrimp are too slow to get

“a i:
4% . ed “ :

outside the leaded sinking berder end then the fishormm

begins to pull gently and the brder slowly closes together — ——

”

Ps

the net, You

 

with plenty of shrimp caus

? « ae ae % et Pee ale. ® i .

* «

ways e4% shrimpe- cmarao-- if you dont use them all pee

 

ean a)

a8 ‘bait out in the harbor, When the day has been bad for

¢

 

a ; F

# nh . Me é

| fishing I can always tell at night walking along by the mits

- Deeause the children.are 411 orying of hunger, §. 9. 4
Pe ee Sef.
ee An intersting thing h re.is their type of boat here,

4 ‘ 2 4 ; . te : ’ e° ¥ :
; . é i Silene cane itn So ”

     

     

   

 

4 One is a plain descendant of the whaling dories of the New | 3

     

_--«- Bedford wanderers, with long keels and sharp prow and ste

. im » ie rc :
.

the other 1s a canoa or am canoe cut out of one single log

 

, : .
%

 

: | and very big and easy to paddle, They use a sail for these _

or canoas and can make very good time, Read Pour Years Before The

¥ hei

 

f Mast end you may find some reference to this island, for it was

where many of the boats put in for the last time before they =|

 

started around the Morn by the straits of Magellan, Magellan's

.

gat coe PRC RRS ee
.

sss veal name was Magellaes which 1s pronounced }\:

bc,

wouldnt look up from his maps if

 

 

    

 

   

so loudly, Oh, I forgot to «:
           

sph pole was snapped off and the

    
        

   

 

 

4, : 3

  
    

 
 
  

 
 

%

      
 

 

     
 

paepaw end if you put some of

 
 

 

oe

    
   
  
 
     
  
  
  
 
 

    
   

‘put a plece of meat in it the meat ‘pe aigestéd thd °°

 

re ‘ ‘ “ ‘.

4 next day , Everybody -

. a :
e *

 

 

es

* i 3 . 4

Pa
a

 

ie.

 

1 the meat there ie on the table

a Brazilian get away with four kinds’of meat at one

m gtak a ‘ # P ; .

avn uew at CU ee 4

Os CKO

 

: ile ile as
? ("4

# ;

4 *
% ae £ :
néal**”

 

       

            

   

   
 
  

 

Good -luck” : ‘eve 59¢ -
ork while you wo? k it is always easicr and yc : |
bie ‘a lot more time left over for every it Ost oe

 

 

gan Always 1

 

 

it, Ge eee : eo \ ’ as it Tt YR - ‘ ‘Tey te 2 ‘ :
our loving uncle

¢* $ ie Se

   

   

 

     

       
 

 

   

February 23 1920

Dearest Pa and “Mes ! ee mee :
‘For the third time my duck trousers have come ‘back
from the wash ently pressed from side to aide ad remonstrances: with
_ the svarthy child have been moekiy accespted, we are on our last
stand on this inspection and it certainly is a ruinous one, ‘The ine
habitants of the island of ‘Santa Catharina are the most densely ig-
norant ana hopelessly aistrustful that we have come across yet and.
here we ahve been waiting for people to examine for almost a week
and only about 120 have turned up, I have hac. less ambi tion than at
any tife in my life, but thank the lord have had a ‘few magazines to
Pead, i Like the inglish Nation better than any of our reviews, It
hide a letter from Benjamin Franklin to br Fothergill which when, you
have been lolling in a stifling barn for a week reading about what
your friends are doing in the world that moves ,aEG nee & certain

i tae: flavor, to wits : , og
' Dear Doctor: : | ; : 7 .
I resteret your: favor: of the 1oth of December, It
Was a great deal for one to write , Whose time is so little his
om, By the: way Hach 22 go you intend to live? i,@, to enjoy Life,
To be hurried ate perpetually from one 3s! ck chamber to another
is not living. Do you please yourself with the fancy that you are _
doing good? You are mistaken, Half the lives you save are not. worbh
the saving, as being useless, and almost the other half ousht —
-* to be saved as being HHMZKEMM mischievous, Does your conscience
hint to you the impbety of being in constant warfare against
th: plans of Providence? Disbase was intended as the punishment |
of intemperande. sloth and other vices; and the example of that pun=
ishment was intended to promote and strngthen the opposite virtues, —
You seem to be just the some service to sochety as some favorite ,
first Minister, who out of the great benevolence of his heart should
~ procure: pardons for all criminals that applied for them",

 

Ba: is & curious fact that only at rare intervans have I seen

: anyone with even a low average of ambition or intelligence and the

constant daily contact with people who hhve all the appearance of

“havens bled to death is in the long run strangely depressing. to am o
more warers aed than, peeved: + knew that there wouldnt be much nen
tal excitement here--- ‘but I aia not suppose that the contact wi th
10500 hookwormed would leave me slightly in the digeard 50 far
as oi p is concerned, That is the number we had finishea at uhe |
end of last month=- this nonth we ought, to ‘have 41009 done. se

     
 

‘ As

tn about a ‘eoek I an salen up te Rio, (Youaa. eet this glad
news after I have started back again) That will be a, pleasnat
SHARE? for me as it is quite different from here, t will probably

 

“spend e a painful sum ‘of mil-reis and have a a good enough time to last
“tall the same time next yeor! specie "
* ‘got a buneh of letters when 1 got back from Lages and the
large number from Pa Was a delught, ‘They give me quite . clear idea
of all thats going on, Faith's family seens to be approaching like
8 railroad train or a herd of buffalo and I shouldnt wonder if she
sometimes Got rather flabbergasted at the determined and loud »
noise they make, Mothers theoretically should never ‘stop the once
thoy have begun-- they can of course slow dowm-- btu grandchildren
_ should be always sneaked under their wings before the ardent 1st. gen,
‘youngest, has begun to leave the nest for trial trips, ‘Thue the mother
a an seep mp in. t e rg where the ) good ones always want = be,
in Brasil, But it is still an oda thing to come into one of our
‘treataent. parties and here. and see the general scene, A group of
pallid monkey=1ike nen. and extraordinars ly dumpy women seated on
their haunches slong the walls, many smoking these terrible paile
cigarettes and a guarda choking medicine into some lemon yellow
kid about twelve years old in height and 18 by the. word of the entire
asseubly, Gosh I can | Give you a sample of 4t all right when I get home,

   

Brazilian. summers are not very bad here, It is the light
more than the heat that gets me, I have been really surprised at th e 4
mildness of it, But they gay there Was nothing merciful in ht season
at Rio. this year, r an glad I atant have to be there for r aun certains *~

   

Ly better off in cold weather . a J y
| Lobicing over some of these typewritten letters I have been 8 ¥

bowed by then greatly for they seem to have nothing in them that 9 as.

‘Burton Holmes wouldnt fcel 72.8 ‘formal enough to use on next years ie

circuit, Tin sorry for this and should ha, ine seen it sooner, There is

 

going to be Less of Brazil now that I' 11 be more confined to ‘Florian ‘

 
 
  

opolis-- SO long hand letters will be more in order. for various ‘reasons, |

 

og wout have to live so uuch from a suit case as in the past end ink aoe

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

I have just returned from the movie, which was brightened and
varied by the appearance. of a disgracefully fat and painfully
brunette (though pasty) Spanish dancer-- Strellita, Strellita' s

= at oe

corsage after the first moult was reassuringly metallic in lustre
hough a half spin she did gave evidence orf what heroic work was
being done by hooks and eyes, She jellied fearfully in the brisk-
er and more kittenish steps, singing quite without expression
and rolling her eyes 1 rt, q 1t, and 2 up. Her various changes
behing he scene left her thinner and less See Ais «i but the
voice and face were in no way relieved,
Then a Brazilian in the audience made a few remarks out-

loud, wittily as he thought, Not so the manager , who advanced with

‘three frightend policemen ana began to expostulate with the

fresh guy. Entire families were leaving the boxes and the house

ae general beamed interest and satisfaction at the diversion,
Then came the head manager iorward and because the witty one did
not want to go out , screamed out "Voce esta preso!" (Youre a
_prisoner!"), At this a wide circle of empty chairs rormed around
the disturber of the show who began orating on the rights of man,
while three policemen and two managers lashed themselves into
verbal fury crying "Youre arrested ! Youre a prisoner !" This
lasted 10 minutes till the man allowed himself to be suided out
by at least five pairs of hands, with numerous hot pauses of pro-
test against actual coercion--- world wide privilege of the
arrested it seems---- to the Delegacia da Policia, During the
last twenty yatid€s toward the Delegacia our wit began to weep
wlth bitter humiliation, but by the time he got inside he was
in full oratorical tongue.
ae oa oe om a After becoming accustomed to vhese what must

a Brakilian think of an American arrest ! Worse than any crime!

 
Mrs Bennett told a story of one of Reo's parties which
ended in his usual cheery imaginative irresponsibilty and
sensitiveness, When he came in at 2 A.M, he was still quite
drunk but very harmlessly so and’ she thought that it would
be a good time teleeatek him for it, So she simply did not
recognise’. him, and persistently refuded to understand who he
was in spite of his aggrieved statements, He soon began to feel
very miserable and sat dow and cried for a while-- which was
what she wanted, After a few minutes. of grief he pulled’ himself
together and began moving the bureau over against the door,
then the ward-robe was draggeded over, She lay in bed wondering
what in the world he was going to do, and finally asked hin
why'he was doing that . " Well’Madam" said Reo "Your see thas is

the first time in my life I have had to spend the night with a

t i

perfect stranger and I cant be interrupted

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Lagoa, Santa Catharina
February 25 1920 ,

Dear a |
Here are two inten sabemetinne: lakes with a sharp

 

ange of granite hills to the east, falling off negligently
to the north to let in the fish into these lakes, and at the
‘south to let in the cold rains from the Argentine, Behind _
us the hille on the west-- we are in a flat sand lagoon ==
and if we had. a glimpse of surf I think the sunrises here wid
be about as fine as anything I have ever seen, It comes so
suddenly here, the dawn is so Clean too, and the colors are
verything you can think of, with distant ieland-mountains,

 

bamboo and banana greenness, and fish jumping out.of misty ;
fdame pink water, It.1s good to climb up on. the railing of
the crude bridge across the narrowest part of the lagoon,

and while everything is still bright pink can! breezes just
beginning eave. the. blanket, behind, see the fish below you
scatter ‘el that short but priceless flash before youre in

 

the water,. and crash in for a small swim before the, 'gente'
begin to arrive and you play the role of sanhor doutor once
more, I do like the in-theeair part of diving-- you never.
get enough of it,
OF spent @ liberal and very. agreeable evening, in
the U.S, last nicht for the simple reason that I decided
yesterday to give up any idea of going there till at least
a year from now.! Istt that. an odd thing, that when you give
something up you get it in all its, pleasant. flavor. of. an
evening, and if you refuse: to give it up you dont have it at
@ll, Quite a. trite lesson to learn at this advanced age, I
suppose=~ ‘but the age you: learn it at doesnt make any diff-
ence after all. Mhat a funny thing twould be to be brought

 

up With
- would be

out -_~ sense of what was ola-- and v9 nothing,

ip gam 8

mished by noral: bromide,

 

 

  

 
 

 

 

 

cant accept the: invitation to join much as I should like
to, But the Rocky Mountains have one advantage that I have
always been keen about-- they feel your own 48 you Look at
thei and you dont have to discount any of your pride be-
cause they may belong to some one else, And besides that
they are very clean and cool and make you feel as if the air.
wa8 all through you as well as all around, and they dont allow
a stuffy feeling, like waking up in a Ppullm@ana car, ‘There ia
a place I am going to see when. I wet home; it is on top of
Cameron "s Cone and I am going to ‘take a donkey and camp there
5 week and cvry morning I can watch the sun rise over Colo-
u nado springs and the plains and the evenings I can look at —
* eet Peak or dom in Crystal Park in the nice purple cloaming
that it used to have when I was a kid, The delightful part
of this idéa is that Lam going’todo it,
rather wish I was in the Tyrol or the Dolomites
or better in Vienna apending ay time on ‘people who have had
some’ fun out of civilised life and dont. want to lose it all,
here it isa little different for they have. never had any
civiifzation® and I am sceptical about the possibilities of
their being able to carry it, Like shaving , tov which bare _
barism was originally contrasted, civilization takes a cere
tain amount of daily energy, and I am doubtfull if itis
worth the time with the people who havent already gotten ‘the
idea, and’ somewhat into practise, I get very low at the news
fron abroad, I would rather. be over in At again, | |
“Dont adopt two neurotic Jew babies, Eleanor, that's
flying in the face of their instincts, They , Like to be in
| higher dilutions-~ one in twenty or fifty is about right--
then ‘the neurottener they are the better, but they'll be very
- domifugal if you have ‘ein too crowded, You ouhgt to get a wee ©
- geot with yaller fuzz 80 ‘st the Jew'll be misunderstood in his
childhood even if you cant ‘misunderstand him, that good dey
understanding for an artist-= it ruins en, Your plan reminds
me of | a saying at the Rodi oat School "Oh: well everybody has

 
hia pet yew", Which despite the Middle Ages and many trips to
New York on ty and all ake other examples of race hatred I think
of 1s still true, and the funny part of it is that we like
our one pet Jew quite a lot; and feel very warn and liberal
about it all, I Inow afer. i like a lot but like Anericans
end Mnglish and Freneh and G ermans 5 they are apt to pave friands
you cant care 80 much for, .

we eae heat down here in this little place nearly
a, week and have dene alnost nothing ate all ensues the people

are

 

isconfiado and are sure that there ie a string to this

| chari ty somewhere, So I have lost all my natives to be amused
at and life has been very very slow, The sun is amazingly. ine
tense at noon and we have to pile out across @ long field of —
mandioca to get to a dirty little store where we have bananas
and hot chicken soup and jerked beef and weal lemon pop and
coffee and very tough rolls, 8o that after the return journey
--end 1 hate to always walk in a slow aimless digesting sort
of way after every meal--we all fall on our cots and sleep,
while the sun rolls across the. north of the sky and finally

the afternoon breeze sto rts up. People in the U.S, only guess
at the stupidity and backwardness of these countries-- it is
hard to imagine that if your best friend was bitten by & rattle
snake you would not be able to get 7 dollars to buy a syringe
to cure hin-- but no; the people leave all that and shrug their
shoulders, saying that they are very poor,-- and the next day
he is much worse, They refuse evrything but what is put in
their hands and use even that sparingly,

The esdivac has just arrived to pay a call, He pays
one each day and says "Entao como vae?" and then sits around
for half an hour or so saying nothing at all, which gets to
me sooner or later and I start typewriting again and he watches
for about ten minutes and then g0es out and talks to my wen,
who are not bothered by a@ silence that is unhappy and a speech
thht says nothing at all, It is a country where you talk not

as some Bay to revert the sooner to silence, but for the fora

 
Be Voy gen va Ts is iy, he nse tel < — le Tony es — “ae oe ne se. a be « ie 4s ,
the choice of words and the oratorical beauty of it all,

»
rae ee ete a py snes ont de % Whe : ~ mn an ek oe & mawnmeent Ae ea ey conte 2 on cy &
he: Uuties and Wealtn OL ora Z41 a Or sSscrcanilns jc PGWLAUS Cape at &
ee %. me é“ whe pi yan, oy % de ey ; » ea on “a a — : “es ¢* ines “%, a *
the politicians who talk and do nothing! So I take to work
and all evening long the noise of tneir arguments xeepe

me from falling asleep over ite-- but to listen to it -

2

a nip ana #hanteo my a Vee te eae ee,
Good luck and thanks for the letter

 

 
hee * . oS ae ,
i

ot metal
ose aS =
Gite

   

Lagoa February 26 1920

“Mite,

Nerds: t am on the norhh side of this: house and it in the
quiet and rapidly getting hotter kind of a morning with everything
very ereen and pleasant looking but the air very very close, We are
waiting to clear out and-around the porch: of the old wireless sta-
tion which we have used for a laboratory are. still the victims of
this. mornings treatment frat tine round for their final dose, The auto-
mobile will come over ‘the hill agout three hours: from now an@ my trip
to Rio will soon be beginning, Hurray for that trip to Rio!

Bamboo here grows in big feathery clusters called ban-

- poozals which are a perfect: paradise for birds aif tase: noise they
make fron the cool green inside is anything to go. bys ‘There is one
that they call Alma de Gato or Soul of a Cat which 18 just like a
kitten sr round halt lost and. half enjoying it. Then gira

_ there are a lot of perfect;

 

wonderful humming birds of all colors
and in a field nearby gone wonderfully tame pheasants-- so that it
is rather pleasant to sit out in all this Pleasant weather and see
the birds in a bamboozal Like pate, I am completely bpamboozaled by

te
Well, wouldnt-it be a nice thing to find you in Rio when

I get there, 7. you would be bored to. tears there is 80 little to
@ao as to theatres and dances etc, but you would like it when the
new moon shines down there and all the smell of the tropical plants
and all the bright plaster houses and all the strange part of it
struck you, The beauty of it is hard to bear at tlmese- it really
te | =
I am getting so used to Brazil now that a lot of it doesnt
 geem strange to me anymore, But I am & long way. from thinking of
staying here for good, The people are not amusing and not being
“among my own people at all gets tiresome after a good long while,
But I havent seen any thing like the Brazil I waht to see before

 

going home and it may be. that 12 have a tes adventures yet before
I turn home, I hope so, _

The good old cigarette holder continues to hola out in splen-—

.

* ‘ : tt - i ‘ *
rd s Re tee Bae GS ge! 2 ‘ :
es Ces eee: an ae cs ee
dor and usefulness and gathers compliments unto its giver
evry little while, I am still looking for something to
fit neatly over your fet neck or put more aip if it were
possible into that cute little face of yours-- Gosh it
will be a long time before I forget it and that's the
truth, Why arent you there in Rios--waiting for me in
white silk at the International for dinner up there on.
the terrace above the bay! Damn it I wish Brazil wasnt
such a rotten place for girls to stay ine- and there'd be
more here, as you might say.

I BAY? just had a half hour's symptoms from & local
beauty-+ and I am glad the Americans dont come if that is

the result of Brazil on vinmmen.

; a I
F p

 

 
November 20th 192vu
Conceicgao de Arroie
Rio Grande do Sul
This has been a grand day nf travel, Tomorrow I shall see
crocodiles and pink flamingoes, but today I have seen white cranes
and little wild ostriches 61.208 here avestruzes, and I think in
our Grngraynsee. omg,
‘Yesterday I got up at 5 in the grande Hotel in Porto Allegre
said goodbye to a youth named MeGurk with whom - haa been rooming
and took a nigger-driven barouche to a funny Little wharf owned by
one Edmundo Dreher, There was a queer little side-wheeler the
Camaquam, which consisted of a Captains wheéi house and cabin | con-
bined, and a large stateroom filled by the clothes fo an old couple
about 75, and a lower deck which was ange and dining saloon com-
bined in back and engine and poiler rpom in tront and cargo space
in the middle, Thus coming down the stairs one e landed on sacks of
salt and cans of Standard oil or Brindilla kerosene, to your left
standing bored Looking mulatto engineers and to the right a saloon
Tull of gente arriving, A curious sne11 of lemons leather and
oil,

All aay we sidewheeled ‘varough mud eerored water, I FORGE ng
and thus greatly Ampressing some of une passengers who see a book
-very rrely, Brazil in a year importe vhe printed matter that. Argent-
ine takes in a nonth, and Argentine only 8 million to Brazil's 20
or 25, At por do sol or sun set we peacefully ran on a bar, and
witn no swearing trom the Captain nor impatience fron the passengers
quietely settled down to chicken soup and beans and. rice, “three
kinds of beef ,and coffee, then the leading citizen on board told
about a recent experience of his in being among, ‘hose poisoned by
arsenic, and a stern fat woman unravelled the motives of the cul-
prit to her om satisfaction and to a dumb audience, the first
citizen being too canny to interrupt her, I very soon went to sleep
on the lounge and woke be “occasionally to see all my frineds in all
the usually agonized positions sleeping and snoring. Possibly the ;
least artistic thing in the world,
By seven o'clock we were sliding up a still river over-hung
with Low:flat trees with long wavy grey moss on the lower
side of the branches and cactus, orchids and gravata on the

upper side-- loking like a big tangle oi everything green
all the way up to the top, there were lots of blue herron
and a bright green jagged-backed young crocodile who didn’ "t
_ move enough to make me sure I have seen a live one 9d
There was a bird on ine reeds, jet black with a tnick finch
_ beak and a crest and head as bright a scarlet as you could
imagine. After many curves we came up along a big crude
stores building along: the and I got out thinking it was
Palmares, There were @ dozen or 60 big two-wheel oxcarts,
wheels z vhink the broadest and largest I have ever seen
and thatched with rushes woven in a broad arch, with an
cow-hide untanned over one end, It is used for all the heavy
carriege } here and is aram by six pairs of oxen all sbung
out in a Line of pairs, a horseman or two to take care of
the affair with a long pole, They oil the axles here so”
you dont — the unending squeaking and ‘humming of the
carro de boi of the North, on asking for Dr George Roy

an engineer to whom I had a letter from the Sectreary of
State (rast company these days t) I was told by a very
pretty and fearfully bashful. little Dutch girl that le
was la adiante and 80 I went vo find him,

Sure enough Cae came a short little Frenchman

speaking such terrific Forsuguene that I asked him to
say it ‘in French which he was only too glad to do and
we had 8 grand time, He has been in one place or another
fp 26 years outside of France-- several years in Tonkin
with the French Chinese "empire builders" and then in wexico
the last en in the Argentine except for uhe war time when
he was in France, A very cheerful soul indeed who was awfully
nice to me and took very good care of my food and drinks,
He waved me nto his quarters with a erenn geswure put found

a hen nesting on the bed which he was too kindhearted to
shoo out, and who watched me shave in the noncommital
attentive way that hens have, but laid no eggs for
almogo in spite of my polite silence,

Dr George Roy 4s the Chefe of a railroad which
the French are building here-- | perhaps the the queerest
I have ever seen, The guage is 60 cm, which makes the
width of the cars just wide enough for two people and
&@ tiny passageway, The engine wouldnt work, so we had
dinner, and then afterwards the Spanish Chief Engineer,
(he had one muiatto helper to distinguish him thus)
sent in word as happy as a kid at Ghristmas that the
engine would work after all, Dr George was not to be #e2
fooled, and had three mules hithshed to a buckboard
as un antec corde de mon arc and amidst a perfectly gratu-
itous and luxurious whistle we set off over the green pak-
prairie in the rain, sitting up on tkwo benched right
behind the engine, Numerous birds started up very near
as the road has not been running very long, and @he excited
pleasure of the engineer and the’ Superintendent of Construct-
ion grew simply boundless as’ we passed the tenth kilometer
without a breukdowm, and perhaps ten yards ahead’ of the
mules, We suddenly realised we needed more water-- out jumped
the ‘engineer and raked out half the fire’ while the fireman
clattered down ‘he track to borrow a bucket at the last ranch
we'd passed, Then for twenty minutes they emtied muddy water
into the machina, and ‘soon we went away again, leter to meet
a deserted engine and a few'cars on the track, Out we got
again, and dumped’ the cars off the track, and decided to
push the engine in front, Suddenly we came to the end of the
line, The cambbn that had come wo newt ius :ter the 35 287
remaining kilometers was broken dow in mid prairie, They
little Frenchman told me “Restez tranquil “ and we both —
got into the buckboard behind the mules, ‘Six hours ‘more
said he would see us at the hotel in Conce&ccao de Arroio,

It had stopped raining a iitile and I didnt care,
The prairie was too interesting, It was. quite
flat, and in some dircetions snretched off ‘to. the horizon |
without a break in its green smotheness, But in many places
you could see bamboo hedges and trees surrounding some
far distant ranch-house, looking like Arnold Boecklin's
Toteninsel, in a vast sea of prairie, Sometimes one. was)
close enough to see the white paster house and the red
tile roof, or the. thatched outbuildings and the bamboo.
lattive work of he walle, But usually’ froma distance only.
the green trees and bamboos leaning together over an un-
seen house, The prairie was: bright green, our path was
the smoother stretches of°grass, almost like’a: law, and
shallow puddles and poitls were everywhere, A gray @ bird
about as high as a chicken but much thinner; witha slow
deliberate and rather choosy walk, gray on the body, with
pure white wings edged with a broad) black: atripe, was,
on all sides and very tame, The name for it, is6 quero-quero
from the cxf, and. it has a beautiful way of flying,in
~unison, We saw quxi p partridges quite close thinking they
were hiding(ten feet away) and white. cranes nabbing frogs . |
quite: undisturbed, Then came a Ford over the, hiil and...
as it was for ‘us we got in androcked away at twice the |
speed for the low line’ of blue mounteins to the west, The.
‘ostriches werent at all frightened, when. we caught up on some
‘I got out and tried to get a picture and they, ratlled away,
easily-- they are only half, the. size of African ostriches
but are really prettier and more graceful,.,I) got about within
50 yards up to them before they got, frightened, ot

» Then shddenly we got to & place where the houses
with bamboos around them began to be bunched together and »
tuning a corner we found a big green square with an old
church in the centre and pink and white and blue houses all

around it, --- whichowas Conceiccao do Aroio,
Sunday the 21 of Noven-
ber 1920 _ =.

IT am for the ineingih the king of the Bungaloos ! I am ina
special boat chartered for my benefit and going a three day
journey along a string of lakes, It is a humorous journey and
there are some 23 men crowding. into the cabin to see this process
-- reallya very funny sight, great big browm devils with hip
boots crowding round and saying " Barbaridade!" and "Tao 1li-
geira! "-<- the first time a good many of them have ever seen a
typewrite, Now that the ones who were here at first have stop=-
ed calling in their fr iends and the crush has abated the discuss
ion has turned on the advanteges of being educated and the am-
azing skill it requires to run a typwwriter ! The things are
synonomous,

It has happened this way, The question of where we would
establish a post down in the State of Rio Grande do Sul came
up and IT had to decide the pace and when, So the Secretary of

State Dr Protasio Alves gave me a letter that must have said a
good deal more than it seemed , for when I gave 1t to a very
good little French engineer named Dr George Roy, he simply put
everything at my dispostion and I have a large sidewheeler to
myself with the only drawback that I have to take the large part
of the voters of the town of Tramandahy home after the election
and the caboose of the boat is cheia de gente which is so much
more than merely full of people would be,

Eastward we have .a few dunes and then the sea, west-
@ range of irregular and heavily wooded hills, and we are
‘winding in and out over a long chain of shallow lakes which
tomorrow will be more a long swampy river and there I-shall hae
great fun, Fun because I have never seen a crocodile in nature
yet, nor any pink flamengoes, but these I am assured we shall
pass in great abundance, And tonight after the voters have got-
ten off the boat I shall be boss of it completely and shall have
to do nothing but command the ship to WAX wedigtr ‘ahohor:early in
the A.M. That will be my idea of a good time-- and I luckily
*

brought plenty of films and I certainly do hope I can gevu some-
thing worh while, | .

| fhe notes I made about the frogs eggs proved to be
abdut as accuraé as most or tne information you get from
Brazilians about their own flora and fauna, They are exception-
ally unrelaable it seems to me-- a duck and a robbin
@ passaros --- and beyond tnat not much distintion is made!
~-I opened some of the beautiful pink eggs.and there was curled
up the nicest little snail shell, the. open front part
‘yellowish and. the finer spiral part a very. bright cochin-
eal red color, This tiny shell were floating, ina gluey

~ - fliia, but were very plainly nothing to do with frogs

at all, | ted ices 8 aut of aotiupet dD aE!

Two customs wnieh I have noticed again, here
but which IT have not made any. note of before I bhink
are worth mentioning. When the steward came in, to light.
the lamp’ on the Camaquam he turned to everybody as soon
as the flame wees i-cinds and said) solemily "Boa Noite!"
and everybody answered"Boa Noite!” , This, I have seen
widespread here but the other trick I noticed may not be
be at all common for I have never seen Lt before, When
a girl about 19 came into she breakfast room at about 6
in ihe A.M, she first went to what. was either her brother
or a very indifferent husband and waiting patiently for.
him to outsretch his hand finally took it rather perfunct-
orily, as I hougt, and kissed it, I heard her say no "Bom
Diat" nor did he either, | |

framandahy proved to be a desolate sort of Provinee-

town-inshe-winter sob of a place,and as the wind was high
we rocked all nikt at anchor and in the morning went on to
he bamboo surrounded fazenda of one Diehl where. we fqtepbonee
for more gasoline, And finally towards dusk tied MP in ube
‘lee of a mud bank-- Barro de Joao Pedro-- and when Lt was
“mroning the sky had almost cleared and I knew it would be w
warm enough for he jacares (crocodiles) to be out when we got

4

to them,
Along bhe river and even on the reeds in the Lagoa
dos Barros there was ‘ great abundance of bright salnion
pink splotches about 3/4 of an inch wide and 2inches long,
I thought at first that these were eggs of some moth, but
the invariably wet and-exposed positions were contradictory,
so I asked what they were, Frogs eggs! The individual eggs
were 0 size a bright pink glue on the inside and pink but
with a powdery white color on the shell which was a little
stiff, on breaking one the glue dried very quickly and the
big Dutehmen tela me thes used a paste of the eggs for sores

in horses-- they cured immediately was his observation,

In these plains there is an enormous number of cattle
nearly all wild and when the engine came near they hurried
away over the smoothe prairie at a great rate, Occasional
horsemen passed by with palla or poncho sweeping down drom
their necks to cover almost completely. man and his horse,
They have @ curiously digniffging effect; the rider seems
to be sitting very erect and still and. moves with his horse
as one piece, We passed two men in tne late afternoon
who had encamped,in the lee of a, bamboo grove with their
huge waggons providingsskgiter, for they use vhe tongue of
the wagon as ridge-pole for a rawhide or canvas tent, they
were lassoing stkes..on the end of the weéeson tongue, The
lasso here is always fine braided rawhide, They were hauling
railroad ties in these big carts which take 50 to 65 ties
(short and small of course) and get 60§000 for the load which
takes some 5 to 7 days(sometimes 4 to 5), this is with a nor-
mal exchang e $15.00 but here has more value if they do not
buy foreign goods--- which there is scarcely an opportunity
to do, Just as on the Amazon where $3 kilometers from Manaos
youre in the jungle, here one has to go put a& very short
distance from Porto Allegre to slide back 200 years inwo
the middle ages of agricwiture,religion,;medicine, music,
and many customs, They plant by hand, they buy blessings for
eile . @

the mares, Iohey. wrap up a compound. fracture of the
tibia in a dirty bandage and leave it till the owner
dies, they sing Gregorian music mixed in with the
carninval music of two years ago--- perhaps 200
years is stretching it a little, But bastante atra-
zado it certainly is,

Toaay is election wae the hoteleiro begged
my | amma for the noise that he is sure will take place
here in the botel about lung time 1 iui to barroulho

sem qualquer duvida, Doutor,

There was parrulhs, "seus fe hundred and fifty
tall dari ‘men in high boots or in sandals and clinking
and jangling with spurs were drifting in and out all day long.
The election as usual here was absolutley uncontested--
there was no other candidate than the intendente: of
Borges de Medeiros’ party, The newly elected Intendente
when I’ met him in the eveneing remark that Cox's telegram
of congratulation to Harding was “correctissimo" and a
phenomenon you'd never see in Brazil between two parties,

The day after the election Monday-no Sunday
morning erly Dr George Roy the little Frenchman took me
down go where the dredge was getting its deadly work in
and showed me with pride a cut from which they had taken
400,000 cubic meters with an apparatus built on the
spot with every bit of iron hauled 60 kilometers in carro
de boi, The dredge was built there too and really seems to

be a very effective apparatus -=- though I'm a better judge
of aspiration apparatus than dredges,

, He had tom warn me séveral times of going into huts
saying "Dont go in there!It's all bicho de pe there!" And
dirs 'ehodett a few days after I was digging one out of
my foot, Three of his workers have had to stop work al-

- together and it is pathetic’ #o'see some of the dogs.

Pleas too are no. joke in this good ship "General, Ozorio",
Leaving Cornei1hos aowhieh was a venda with a rather graceful
ola tree sprawled out over the roof, a little pink chapel
with BOM JESUS written over 1%, and a few little hovels
with sick children sunning themselves or lying on the floor
saring at US-- we started up & winding stream through a huge
marsh that stretches for miles between the ocean sahd dunes
to the east and hke irreguler flat topped mountains to the
west and norh west, Not five minutes later I was seeing

one crocodile after acide flop off the low banks and dis-
appear in the muddy water, or if ata greater distance :
stealthily bide into the stream and wait with his. head and
evil eyes just showing above the water until we were perhaps
twenty feet from him when he would whi sk out of sight.

They are evil beasts to watch-~ outright ferocity would be
more agreeable. han than this non-committal akant silent
guileful retirement, ‘The size I did. not remember to
eshate and memories are unreliable, Their eyes are wonder=
fully placed, on he top of their heads and elevated just
enouk to be the last thing to ees periscope like
beneah the muddy water,

I never have seen such an amazing variety and number
of fesh water birds-- many I never have seen the like of before,
There was a huge goose with black and white Wings and a gray
body and a very short face covered with red wattles. There
were lots of bigua, an ungainly duck like thin elackish
brown bird witha a long sharp beak, that looked and dived much
like a loon, There was aa black hen like looking one with.

a@ red face, and two white patches on its wings, that almost

always ran and couched in the reeds rather han fly. One huge

black anni white stork and another soft bitue gray crane

and a beautiful little golden brown bird about the size of

a pheasant and a habit of holding up its almost transparent
geg@lden wings when it alit, And another---but so it went on ©

fifteen or so new birds that I watched with the binoculars ,
from the prow of the boat, t would like with a Snes
canoe my spend two weeke like a savage in these noad
swamps, ‘slaeping when he world about me sleeps and
feedng and wandering through the long days with the
peaceful content hat comes with practice at living
- so, The more one notices of living things the more
completely does the Scotchman’ s renark express the
situation ee sa grand life af ye aon' t weaken"
It does not seem to be as much of a universal slaugh-
ter house ag it re considered by some ,@Rathxthat,
Death that has been preceded by some few "crowded
-hburs of Siersous life" is no great tragedy, ote
death that ends a life of misery and insufficienciy
and sickness is a relief---- in nature these are the
two varictbes. “The death we abhor ig the one of our
own making--- we keep putting off the crowded hour
and suddenly cones the end before we have run our race
and had our fling--- then of course it 1s bitter, and
of our ow making the more > poignant, But here in the
swamps if there is an abundance of food there are more
Stong moprhens and more strong-winged ducks that sur-
vive all the oher struggles of living and the hawks
live on the excess weaklings-- which must bear some
fairly constant ratio to the total. To me wild life seems
a less brutal balance than I was taught to believe it,
and etre ss see goings-on ‘considerably more so !
I always feel in places like this the way
gu feel. when two very agreeable Looking people are
pre a, language you cannot understand and but half
catcn he ideas of, There is some sort of communion in
the wilderness that strangera cannot enter into with-
out a year or so of ners Lanes and perhaps much more

than mere time 1s involved as well,