WHAT IS A PURE SOAP? 
WITH NOTES 
ON THE 
INJURIOUS EFFECTS OF 
IMPURE SOAPS. 
COLLATED FROM 
Stem riant The manufacture and use of soap dates from an early 
period, but like many other operations of household 
origin, it long remained an empirical method, the 
chemistry of the process being entirely unknown. Ac- 
curate knowledge of the changes that take place in 
saponification dates only from 1813, when Chevreul, a 
French chemist, who is still living, at an advanced age, 
made a thorough investigation into the subject, deter- 
mined the composition of fats and the effects produced 
on them by the action of caustic alkalies. We need not 
be surprised at the comparatively late period at which 
so important a series of facts became understood, when 
we are reminded that it was near the close of the last 
century before any approach to exact analytical chem- 
istry was attained. 
Bearing in mind, then, the recent date of our know- 
ledge in this matter, we are prepared to recognize that 
while the general chemistry of soap-making is under- 
stood, there are important points, which are not widely 
known or appreciated. The varying uses to which soap 
is applied renders it necessary that it should be prepared 
by exact methods, capable of yielding the desired arti- 
cle. The older processes handed down for centuries in 
the traditions of unlearned soap-makers will not suffice 
for the specific purposes of to-day. The operation must 
be conducted in such a manner that a product of known 2 
and invariable composition will result It is obvious, 
then, that to bring this art to its full perfection, a care- 
ful chemical study must be made of all the materials 
and of the changes taking place in the pro- 
cess. 
Nature of Fats:—Under the term fats and fixed 
oils are included a number of bodies, animal and vege- 
table, which differ considerably in quality and proper- 
ties, but are closely analogous in composition. When 
pure, they are neutral, and undergo but little change. 
The commercial forms of these bodies are very nume- 
rous, and they are not only subject to extensive adulter- 
ation and substitution, but great variation in quality is 
observed, even in the unadulterated samples. In many 
cases, fragments of vegetable and animal tissue remain 
in the fat, and soon undergo decomposition, not only 
becoming offensive and irritating, but causing the fat to 
become urancidfi that is, developing free acid. When 
such impure fats are converted into soap their irritating 
and offensive qualities are not removed. 
Preparation of Soap. 
Alkalt :—The quality of the alkali used in the manu- 
facture of soap should be also carefully noted. It should 
be free from lime and other earthy bases, for these will 
form with the fat, insoluble and useless bodies. If the 
alkali has been exposed too freely to the air, it will con- 
tain carbonates, which wdll be retained in the soap, and 
be decidedly irritating. 
Saponification :—It is, however, in the process of 
saponification itself that the art of the scientific soap- 
maker is displayed. When caustic alkali (soda or pot- ash) is brought in contact with, say, olive oil, a mutual 
action takes place, by which the oil loses its greasiuess, 
and becomes miscible with water; at the same time the 
alkali loses its caustic and corrosive properties. The 
action is a true chemical change ; both bodies are con- 
verted into new substances. The oil is decomposed; 
one portion of it unites with the active ingredients of 
the alkali, producing soap, while the other portion com- 
bines with certain elements that were in the alkali, and 
produces glycerin. Glycerin, it must be noted, does not 
pre exist in the fat, but is produced by the saponifica- 
tion. 
Common Defects in Soap. 
The above is a brief statement of the formation of 
soap ; but in actual practice many difficulties are en 
countered. Unless the proportions of oil and alkali are 
accurate!}7 adjusted, there will be an excess of one or 
the other, and the soap will be either greasy or caustic. 
A deficiency of alkali would be more easily recognizable 
than an excess. It happens, therefore, that the most com- 
mon defect in soaps is the presence of small amounts of 
free alkali. This defect is often overlooked, but is one 
of the most serious errors in soap-making. When any 
soap is treated with cold water a slight decomposition 
takes place, and upon this the detergent or cleansing 
action depends. It is a very common but serious mis- 
take to suppose that the detergent action depends on 
the free alkali present; on the contrary a properly made 
soap is practically neutral. 
Adulterations of Soap ;—In addition to these defects 
in manufacture, soaps are very largely and frequently 4 
adulterated. Many samples contain great excess of water 
and are weighted with gelatine, starch, sugar, talc, china- 
clay and terra alba. The use of low grade and impure 
fats, and the substitution of rosin and silicate of soda 
are also common practices. Highly colored soaps are 
objectionable as they contain either insoluble or irri- 
tating coloring materials. Appearance and price are no 
guide to quality. Much of the so-called fancy or toilet 
soap is fulty as injurious to the skin or complexion as 
the I’ough laundry soaps. Transparent soaps and other 
high-priced forms are often serious offenders in this 
respect. Nor can any reliance be placed on the supposed 
standard quality of the article. For instance, it is com- 
monly supposed that the term “ Castile ” is a guarantee 
of the excellence and purity of a soap, whereas it is now 
a mere trade-term which does not give any assurance of 
the quality or source of the article. Similarly the terms 
“ Windsor ” or “ Elderflower ” convey in themselves no 
definite information. Castile is now made in different 
parts of the world, and from different materials. Cot- 
ton-seed oil is sent abroad and comes back in the form of 
so-called Castile soap. Much of this imitation, and 
some of the true Castile, contains free alkali and alkaline 
carbonates and is decidedly unfit for toilet uses. Mot- 
tled soap contains metallic impurities, and is also ob- 
jectionable. 
Perfumes in Soap :—It is possible to add to soap 
suitable perfumes, but as these are expensive, many 
coarse and impure essential oils are used. Among these 
is a body called “ oil of myrbane ” or “ artificial oil of 
bitter almonds ” which resembles the genuine oil only in 
odor and is a local irritant and poison. Inferior essen- 5 
tial oils often acquire the flavor of turpentine; all such 
are unsuited for toilet soaps. 
Action of Soap on the Skin. 
Many persons, even ph3'sicians, sometimes fail to ap- 
preciate the delicacy of the structure of the skin, and 
the important functions which it performs. It is very 
highly supplied with blood-vessels and nerves, and its 
excretory glands are numerous and active. All derma- 
tologists are agreed that by the use of impure soaps, skin 
diseases may be produced, and already existing disease 
be aggravated ; and further, that in the treatment of 
such” affections a pure and non-irritating soap is of the 
greatest assistance in cleansing the surface. It is also 
important that soap should contain no insoluble mineral 
matter, which would obstruct the pores of the skin and 
interfere with the excretory function. 
Infants’ Soaps :—These principles apply to all cases, 
but with especial force to the use of soap on the shin of 
infants. In these we have an exceedingly delicate and 
highly active skin, and the child being too young to ex- 
press its feelings intelligibly, great harm may be done by 
the use of an irritating soap or one containing insoluble 
matter. Those having the care of children should not 
allow themselves to be misled by the attractive or pecu- 
liar appearance, form or color of the so-called infant 
soaps, but should use only such as are known to be pure 
and properly made. 
Surgical Uses of Soap. 
The necessity of extreme cleanliness is now a demon- 
strated fact in operative surgery. The hands of the 6 
surgeon, the instruments used, and the parts operated 
upon must be most carefully cleansed. For the sensitive, 
delicate and highly absorbent surface of a wound or 
abrasion, only the purest materials are permissible. Es- 
pecially necessary is it to avoid the use of a soap con- 
taining insoluble matter, free alkali or impure fats. 
Soap as a Cause of Skin Disease. 
The irritating effect on the skin of even small amounts 
of caustic alkali is well known ; but there is good reason 
to believe that this effect is more decided than is usually 
supposed. For a number of years much has been said 
in medical journals as regards the poisonous action of 
the dye-stuffs contained in clothing worn next to the 
skin. Reports of serious eruptions, apparently tracable 
to this source have been often published, and many med- 
ical men are convinced of the dangerous character of 
colored stockings and such articles. In controversion, 
however, of this view we have some striking facts. It 
is well established that workmen engaged regularly in 
the manufacture of these dyes are not so affected, and 
from time to time experiments have been made by wear- 
ing articles colored with some of the most objectionable 
dyes, the result being that no irritating action was ob- 
served. The explanation of this apparent contradiction 
between clinical observation and experiment will be 
found in the influence produced on the skin by the ord- 
inary soaps which are used for toilet purposes These, 
by reason of the caustic alkali, carbonate of soda, and 
other injurious ingredients produce so much irritation 
and excoriation of the skin that not only is an incipient 
inflammation developed, but the protective epidermis 
being in part removed, the absorption of any poisonous matter is greatly facilitated. Furthermore, there is no 
doubt that the local cutaneous inflammation observed 
in many of these cases are due directly to the effect of 
the impure soap, and then aggravated by the contact of 
the chemical substances in the dye stuff. In this con- 
nection the injurious action of impure fats and adulter- 
ations must not be overlooked. 
For many years it has been the practice to prepare 
so-called medicated soaps, especially for application in 
skin affections. In spite, however, of the extent to 
which these preparations have been used and the variety 
of forms which have been proposed, they have given 
but limited satisfaction in clinical work. Within the 
last year or so, especially, there have been a number of 
such soaps put on the market. There are serious chemi- 
cal objections to most of the-e and there is much dis- 
agreement among medical authorities concerning their 
usefulness. In soaps made with corrosive sublimate or 
other mineral substances, a series of decompositions 
occur by which these bodies are precipitated in the in- 
soluble form and rendered inert. The value of a properly 
made soap in skin affections is undoubted, and equally 
certain is it that local applications of medicinal sub- 
stances are of benefit. It is, however, by many practi- 
tioners thought to be a mistake to attempt to combine 
these two methods in one application. Leaving out of 
consideration the difficulty just alluded to the incom- 
patibility of many therapeutic agents with soap there is 
the inherent incongruity in the intention for which the 
soap is used and the purpose for which the medicament 
is employed. Soap is essentially a cleansing agent; 
Medicated and Antiseptic Soaps. 8 
by facilitating the free action of the skin, it maintains it 
in good health, but its use in the treatment of cutaneous 
troubles is to remove the normal and abnormal accre- 
tions and prepare the surface for the more efficient effect 
of the remedies applied. It is in the very nature of the 
action and function of soap that it should be retained 
onty so long on the skin as may be required to produce 
its detergent effect; when this has occurred it should 
be removed, for if allowed to remain it becomes an inter- 
ference wiih the functions of the skin : on the other hand 
the intention of the application of the therapeutic agents 
is that they shall be allowed to remain long enough ou the 
skin to produce, either locally or by absorption, their 
effects. From these considerations it will be seen that 
an excellent method is to employ at first a perfectly pure 
and neutral soap as a cleansing agent, and then having 
removed the soap and accretions, apply the medicament 
to the skin. When the application has become ex- 
hausted or foul it may be removed by re-application 
of the soap, and renewal of the remedy on the cleaned 
skin. 
Another objection to the incorporation of foreign 
matters in so 'ps is, that they may either in themselves 
or b}r their action on the soap-mass give rise to decom- 
positions and fermentations which modify the action of 
the combination. Even in those cases in which the 
direct effects of a small amount of caustic alkali is in- 
dicated, it is far better to attain this by the use of a per- 
fectly neutral soap, to which has been added a known 
amount of alkali, than to rely upon so-called alkaline 
soaps in which the percentage and character of the 
alkali must be alwa}'S uncertain. As remarked above, 
it is a mistake to suppose that the detergent action of 9 
soap depends on the free alkali; a neutral soap will 
accomplish this result perfectly in the majority of cases 
and is the only kind suited to the healthy skin. 
Conclusions. 
Summing up, then, the views presented in this arti-* 
cle we find that the preparation of a good soap involves 
the following conditions : 
The fats or oils must be pure and of constant composi- 
tion. 
The process of saponification must be carefully con- 
ducted by intelligent and experienced persons. 
The alkali should be of superior quality, known 
strength and free from lime or carbonate of soda. 
The product should be ascertained by actual test to 
be free from caustic alkali or other irritating substances. 
No adulterations should be present; excess of water, 
addition of antiseptic materials, insoluble powders, or 
agents intended for therapeutic effects are all foreign to 
the purposes for which soap is used, and interfere with 
its functions. 
No form of soap should be used unless its purity is 
duly attested by an analytical report, which shall be 
verified from time to time on recently manufactured 
samples. 
While a pure soap is essential in all cases, it is emi- 
nently indicated in the case of infants and children, and 
to sensitive, inflamed or diseased skins. 
The “ Althene Skin Soap” is offered to the medical 
profession as an article possessing all the qualities of a 
perfect soap according to the principles here laid down: 10 
in fact is the result of the study of the science of the 
manufacture of soap. In its production the highest 
skill is brought to bear, and only the purest materials 
are employed. It constitutes in the condition in which 
it is put upon the market, a pure soap-mass, free from 
caustic or other irritating substances, perfectly neutral, 
unadulterated and adapted to use on the most delicate 
and sensitive skin. 
Although the process of manufacture is so conducted 
as to produce a superior article, yet to ensure absolute 
accuracy in this respect it has been carefully analyzed 
by a professional chemist, whose certificate is appended. 
In order that this soap shall be maintained at an 
exact standard of purity and excellence, samples of each 
lot made are submitted to Dr. Henby Leffmann, “Hygi- 
enist and Food Inspector of the Pennsylvania State 
Board of Agriculture'1'1 for analytical examination ; and 
until the purity of the article is ascertained, it is not put 
on the market. 
We can,therefore, assert, without fear of contradic- 
tion, that no other soap is so carefully made, and cer- 
tainly none is so critically examined before leaving the 
hands of the makers. 
Physicians, therefore, have a guarantee that their pa- 
tients will obtain an absolutely pure, neutral and correctly 
made article when they order “ Althene Skin Soap.5' 
Comparatively speaking, this is a new soap, having- 
been first offered for sale in January, 1881 ; therefore, 
the druggists in some sections may not be familiar with 
it. Where such is the case, they can easily procure it 
from their wholesale druggist or direct from 
J. W. CAMPION & CO., 
916 Filbert Street, Phila. 11 
Chemist’s Certificate. 
I am pleased to inform you that I have made a chem- 
ical analysis of your “Altiiene Skin Soap,” the samples 
having been selected by me from the general stock, and 
I find the same to be an absolutely pure and correctly 
made Soap, containing no impure fat-acids, no excess of 
alkali, and no irritating mineral or organic substances. 
The process of manufacture is so conducted as to pro- 
duce a perfectly neutral Soap, eminently fitted for all 
toilet purposes. Yours, 
HENRY LEFFMANN, M D , 
Professor of Chemistry in the Pennsylvania College of Dental 
Surgery, and in the Wagner Free Institute of Science, Hygienist 
and Food Inspector to the State Board of Agricxdture. 
The Medical Register of April 9th, 1887, under the 
head of “ Reports, Analyses,” etc., refers to this Soap 
in the following language : 
From a personal examination of a number of speci- 
mens of “ Althene Skin Soap,” wre have found it to be 
the purest and best Toilet Soap we have ever met with. 
It is entirely free from adulteration, impure fat-acids or 
any excess of alkali. It forms, with water, freely a thick 
lather, which possesses most excellent detergent prop- 
erties, and is the most effective and practical of all soaps 
for cleansing the skin, the surface remaining smooth, 
soft, and most comfortable after its application. The 
most delicate skin, even of infants, can bear its use, 
often with the greatest benefit. In dandruff, irritable 
conditions of the scalp and skin, it affords decided relief. 
It is also a most effective soap to employ in almost all 12 
chronic affections of the skin, and in bringing about a 
clear, brilliant complexion. Whether intended for the 
toilet,nursery, or sick-room, we recommend most highly 
the “ Althene Skin Soap. ” 
I have made a close examination of your “Althene 
Skin Soap.” and can say that it is entirely free from 
impurities. It imparts to the skin, after washing, a 
softness unequalled by any other Soap. I have used it 
in skin eruptions with excellent results, relieving the 
disagreeable itching, I have also used it in washing 
chronic ulcers; in fact, using it in all cases where I 
formerly employed Castile Soap. I cannot but recom- 
mend it most highly. 
EUGENE P. BERNARDY, M.D., 
No. 221 S. Seventeenth St., Phila. 
The following case, cited by Dr. Waugh, Professor of 
Principles and Practice of Medicine and Clinical Medi- 
cine, in the Medico-Ghirurgical College of Philadelphia, 
is especially interesting: 
Dear Sirs : 
A case has recently occurred in my practice which so 
well illustrates the importance of using perfectly pure 
soaps, that I will give it to you. 
A gentlemen called on me complaining of fetid feet. 
He stated that he scrubbed them twice a day, using a 
nail-brush; but the more he washed the worse was the 
odor. 
I asked him what soap he used, but he did not know. 13 
My advice was to wash his feet once daily, and to use 
“ Althene Skin Soap” alone. The result was complete 
relief from his unpleasant ailment. I attribute the 
bromidrosis to irritation of the sweat-glands caused by 
the impurities contained in soaps made from rancid or 
decomposing fats. 
I think that if the attention of physicians were directed 
to the subject, it would be found that the quality of the 
soap used in washing wounds, etc., has much to do 
with the difficulty often experienced in accomplishing a 
cure. 
Yours, very truly, 
WM. WAUGH, M.D. 
“Althene Skin Soap” has been used by my family 
since its introduction to the public. On account of the 
known purity of the materials used in its manufacture, 
and skill in combination, I know of no Soap so useful 
for the general toilet, nursery or sick-room. It is 
particularly agreeable to those having an easily irritated 
skin. 
MALCOLM MACFARLAN, M.I) , 
1805 Chestnut Street, Phila. 
I have found “Althene Skin Soap” to be perfectly 
bland and non-irritating. Physicians will find it excel- 
lent for the tender skin of infants and delicate ladies, 
for cleansing in all skin diseases, and for general toilet 
purposes. 
C. F. TAYLOR, M.D., 
Editor of The Medical World. 14 
The “Althenb Skin Soap” you sent me some time 
since.has given me entire satisfaction. In my opinion 
it is the best on the market. 
W. H. BOBBITT, M.D., 
Raleigh, N. C. SKIN SOAP 
REQ'O, OCT. ia, 18 8 6. 
None genuine without the above trade-mark 
and this signature on the wrappers: 
i ta