Historic QUEBEC Published by the CHATEAU FRONTENAC CO. 1895 HISTORIC QUEBEC Fourth Edition PUBLISHED BY THE CHATEAU FRONTENAC CO. 189J Copyright, 1894, by Chateau Frontenac Co. QUEBEC, FROM LEVIS. HISTORIC QUEBEC. Here sailed Jacques Cartier, bold and great Champlain, Here vigorous Frontenac with iron ruled ; Here fell two heroes ; one in victory Scarce realized ; his rival in defeat Scarce known. Peace from their glorious graves has schooled The ancient discord, till our minstrelsy Sings growth united in war’s vacant seat!—Alfred Thorold. THERE is not a spot in all America richer in historic treasure, or more lavishly endowed by Nature in the beauty, grandeur, and splendor of its surroundings, than the quaint old walled city of Quebec. Guarding the portal of the great inland waters of the continent, it has not inaptly been termed the “ Sentinel City of the St. Lawrence,” while its grim citadel and strong fortifications have earned for it the title of the “ Gibraltar of America.” Historically it stands pre-eminent. Here the germ of European civilization was planted in this new northern land, and the two greatest of old-world monarchies battled for half-a-continent; where mediaeval ideas of fortification and defence may be seen ; and where the bold fortress- crowned rock and the ma- jestic river flowing with the watery tribute of the whole western world at its feet, show Nature in her most wonderful works. It is of Quebec that Henry- Ward Beecher said : “ Here is a small bit of mediaeval Europe perched upon a rock, and dried for keeping—a curiosity that has not its GRAND BATTERY. HISTORIC QUEBEC. 4 equal in its kind on this side of the ocean.” And the wondrous beauty of the city’s environ- ments is thus described by another gifted writer: “The majestic appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortifications, the cupolas and minarets blazing and sparkling in the sun, the noble basin like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with safety the navies of the world, the graceful meanderings of the river St. Charles, the numerous village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence, the fertile valley dotted with the picturesque habitant houses the distant Falls of Montmorenci, the park-like scenery of Point Levis, the beauteous Isle of Orleans, the grim purple mountains, the barriers to the north, form a picture which it is no exaggeration to say is unsurpassed in any part of the world.” It is the purpose of this brochure to furnish in a concise form such information concerning this ancient city, its approaches, surroundings, and accommodation for tourists as may assist that numerous and yearly increasing brotherhood, or such of them as may desire to visit the St. Lawrence, in forming their plans to ensure the maximum of recreation with the minimum of trouble. The city of Quebec is such a convenient resting place between Montreal and the several points of interest on the Lower St. Lawrence, and is of itself so interesting and so unlike other cities of the continent, that very few making the tour of the St. Lawrence pass its memorable walls without spending a few days within them. They desire to see where Cartier, the Columbus of the North, first landed, where Champlain founded the first French colony, where Wolfe fell and Montcalm received his death wound, and where Montgomery, the American general, who was killed while besieging the city on 31st December, 1775, breathed his last HISTORIC QUEBEC. 5 within the English lines. The streets of Quebec are redolent of the religious and military history of early Canada, and every spot now dismissed in a sentence was the centre of events which seemed to the actors of them to be fraught with far-reaching consequences, as indeed many of them were. It is three hundred and fifty-nine years since Jacques Cartier anchored off what was then the Indian village of Stadacona, and of course claimed the rest of it, all, what- ever it might prove to be, for the King of France. He made no permanent settlement here, but in 1549 the Sieur de Roberval spent one winter with a small colony he had brought out, and then retired. In 1608 Champlain arrived and succeeded in estab- lishing the French possession of the country and commenced to provide material for history. His romantic reign as practical King of the St. Lawrence, and the eventful times of his French successors have been so frequently and so well described by Parkman, Ivingsford, Stewart, Le Moine, Bourinot, and Harper, that it is not necessary to say more of them here. Quebec has seen more war, probably, than any other place on the continent. The mere sight of the city recalls to memory the long succes- sion of historical events in which many nations were deeply interested. The French, the English, the American, and the aboriginal Indians have all played their parts in the stirring drama whose scenes were laid around the for- tress-crowned rock; and the final struggle for Canada between the French and English which closed on the OLD STAIRWAY ‘FROM WOLFE’S COVE TO THE PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. HISTORIC QUEBEC. 6 Heights of Abraham, a little beyond the St. Louis gate of Quebec, saw the end of France in the northern half of the continent, and commenced the regime which was inevitably destined to result in the self-governing liberty which Canada now enjoys. HOW TO GET THERE. QUEBEC is easily reached from all directions. From Montreal, which may be regarded as the starting-point for the Lower St. Law rence, there is a choice of routes by rail and river. By the Canadian Pacific Railway, it is about five hours’ run along the north bank of the river, through the old French settlements that in many places are almost as primi- tive as in the days of Champlain arid Frontenac. The railway runs directly under the walls of, and yet into, the city. The Grand Trunk, on the other side, runs to Levis, directly opposite Quebec, the river being crossed by steam ferry. During the season of navigation the steamers of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Co. ply between Montreal and Quebec, affording a de- lightful sail on the St. Lawrence. Tourists from the New England States who do not wish to visit Montreal, can reach the Ancient Capital by way of Sherbrooke, thence via the Quebec Central or Grand Trunk Railway, or by Dudswell Junction, and thence, by Quebec Central, to Levis. The Intercolonial Railway, running through the Maritime Provinces from Halifax, also lands the tourist at Levis; and in summer numerous steamships from European and Lower St. Lawrence ports all make Quebec a stopping-point. IN AND AROUND QUEBEC. WHERE TO STOP. THE Chateau Frontenac, a magnificent new fire-proof hotel, erected by a number of capitalists of Montreal, stands at the eastern end of a splendid esplanade known as the Dufferin Terrace, commanding delightful views of the St. Lawrence as far as the eye can reach, down past the Isle d’Orleans, across to Levis and beyond, up stream to Sillery, and to the left, the country along the beautiful valley of the St. Charles River. The grandeur of the scenery is indescribable; it is matchless in diversity and charming in effect. No grander site for such a structure could be found on the continent, and it would not be easy to combine the advantages it possesses in any place the world over. This elegant hotel is erected on an historic spot of more than ordinary interest—the site of the old Chateau St. Louis, so famous in Canadian history, and once the vice-regal residence of the Governors of Canada, both before and after the conquest. “ A massive, shapely edifice is this grand hotel on Dufferin Terrace,” writes the well-known authoress, Faith Fenton, “ a veritable old-time chateau, whose curves and cupolas, turrets and towers, even whose tones of gray stone and dulled brick harmonize well with the sober, quaint architecture of our dear old Fortress City. Chateau Frontenac has been planned with that strong sense of the fitness of things. In exterior it blends with its surroundings ; it is part of the wondrous picturesqueness. The interior magnificent outlook and hotel luxury are so com- mingled that neither seems to have been sacrificed to the other. The architect—Mr. Bruce Price—must MARTELLO TOWER. 8 IIISTORIC QUEBEC. have a cunning brain to have thus devised this horseshoe hotel—for thus it is shaped—and so mapped out its interior that all the offices and service-rooms, even the main entrance hall, with its pillared gateway, look out upon the inner curve, leaving every bit of the outer circle, that faces the magnificent stretch of river and sky and far-off hills, to be devoted to guest rooms. It was a clever and difficult planning; it required an equally clever and difficult fur- nishing ; for this horseshoe edifice possesses as many interior curves and corners as outer ones. It is delightfully unexpected in its ways. Rooms that are bow-shaped, crescent-shaped, circu- lar ; rooms that are acute-angled, obtuse-angled, triagonal, sexagonal—everything except right- angled. And then the stairways—they are everywhere, and equally pretty and unique in effect. Every corner that one peeps into along these wide, curving corridors holds an inviting little stairway—bright and Soft, with rich crimson carpeting and oak banisters—that tempts one to ascend or descend just to find where it leads. The broad entrance hall and offices, the great rotunda and reading-room have tessellated floors, and are large, light, airy, and finely furnished. The stairways and banisters are of oak—a wood that is much used throughout the building. Ascending the main stairway, which leads by easy turns from the vestibule, we come upon one of the most artistic effects in the building, for, standing in the broad corridor, beautiful with its white panellings, oak floor, and crimson Axminster, we look between large, creamy, daintily-moulded pillars into the long drawing-room, and beyond it into the ladies’ pavilion. It is a wonderfully pretty and artistic entrance that these white, carven pillars afford. It brings a suggestion of the Renaissance and the white and gold days of Louis Quinze. The ladies’ pavilion is delightful. It might be called the ladies’ rotunda, for it cor- 10 HISTORIC QUEBEC. responds with that of the one below. It is perfectly round, of course, with those fine square carven pillars forming the entrance way, and a central round pillar supporting the graceful sprays of lights. Half of the circling wall is filled with windows that look out upon a scene—than which no fairer one exists. From the gray Citadel along and adown the river to Isle d’Orleans—with Lower Town lying beneath the Terrace and all the landscape beauty across the rapid water—truly it is a superb eastern portal, a fit correspondent for Canada’s magnificent mountain guardians of the west.” There are many suites in this big hotel, some of them containing as many as eight rooms, and of one the following description is given : “ Two dainty bedrooms and two equally dainty bathrooms in white marble and gold lead from either end of a bow-shaped boudoir, whose curve is one unbroken line of beautiful windows, richest Axminster, of glowing crimson, creamy panellings, tinted walls and ceiling, deep window seats—all these the room possesses, but one sees them not, they are as nothing compared to the great curve of radiance that shines and sparkles from this splendid bow of light. . . . The hotel throughout is carpeted with Axminster and Wilton in deep crimsons and moss greens—our footfalls press away into softest plush. The furniture is chiefly oak. The bedroom furnishings are much alike throughout—handsome brass bedsteads, oak furniture, and cosy upholstering in each room. “ It is one of the features of Hotel Frontenac that, from lowest to topmost story, every- thing is of the best. It is equally a feature that the fourth, fifth, and sixth stories are more desirable than the lower ones, for the higher one climbs the wider the panorama of river, hill, and sky that unrolls to one’s view. HISTORIC QUEBEC. 11 “ The dining hall is rich and in absolute harmony with the Louis Quinze conception. It is a very large square airy room, with windows looking out upon the river. The floor is of oak, in herring pattern. The wainscoting is of leather, studded with brass nails. The wall above is freely panelled in oak—and decorated between with richly tinted tapestry. This warm, dull, tinted tapestry, crowded with quaint figures, is an amusement and delight to the eye, and under the soft electric glow the result is absolutely satisfying. ... A peep into the kitchen— a great, wide, cleanly place, made busy at that moment with dinner preparations—is a revelation. “ One of the things a woman notices first is the table furnishing. And these at Chateau Frontenac have been chosen with perfect taste—from the simple silver-rimmed castor, with its square-cut bottles, to the tiny fruit spoon—everything harmonizes in the most satisfying way.” WHY CALLED CHATEAU FRONTENAC. THE Chateau Frontenac is named after the most illustrious of the early French rulers, whose chateau occupied the site of the hotel. In 1690, when a demand for the sur- render of the garrison was made upon Count de Frontenac by Sir William Phipps, com- mander of the English fleet, he refused to reply in writing. “ I will answer your general by the mouth of my cannon,” he said to the bearer of the summons, and the sturdy old governor kept his word. 12 HISTORIC QUEBEC. DUFFERIN TERRACE. THE pride and the glory of Quebec is Dufferin Terrace, an unrivalled promenade and public rendezvous. From it, or better, from any of the windows in the Chateau Frontenac, which stands at its eastern limit, and at the base of the Citadel, a view, unsurpassed for beauty and grandeur, bursts upon the beholder. The broad promenade is fully a quarter of a mile long, and erected on it are five handsome kiosks, to which the names of Plessis, Frontenac, Lome and Louise, Dufferin, and Victoria have been given, besides another for the use of bands of music which at times are those belonging to British and French men-of-war visiting the port. Elevated 200 feet above the St. Lawrence, which here contracts its high banks until but a mile separates them, it is a point of vantage from which to drink in the feast of scenic splendor which is spread out before one. There is the mighty river—described by Howells as the “ Little Giant”—on whose bosom float craft of every description, from the huge ocean grey- hound to the primitive canoe of the Indian ; across the water is Levis, on whose crowning cliffs, rising higher even than those of Quebec, are three immense forts erected by the British Government at acost approaching $1,000,000; down the stream is the beautiful Isle d’Orleans —the Isle of Bacchus of Jacques Cartier, and at a later time known as Sorcerer’s Island, for in the lights that danced over its swamps the native Indians and the early' French settlers saw the work of His Satanic Majesty and his uncanny followers. Farther away is Cape Tourmentc, and along the shores are the quaint villages of the habitants, and the narrow-stripped farms which excite the surprise and curiosity of the traveller. To the left the St. Charles gracefully sweeps and blends its waters with the greater stream. Forest and river and mountain and cultivated broad acres combine to make gorgeous landscape, and in the rear tower the Lau- rentian Hills whose purpled crests lose themselves in the fleecy clouds. At one’s feet is the HISTORIC QUEBEC. 13 bustling Lower Town and the ships in port, and above is the frowning Citadel whose hoary walls have environed Quebec with a glamour of romance and renown. Every foot of land here is historic ground ; the very air breathes of deeds of valorous daring and military prowess which even the peaceful aspect of the present or the hum and bustle of everyday business near by fails to dispel. Looking down from the Terrace front the narrow street bearing the name of the founder of Quebec is seen, and its long length followed to the foot of the Citadel cliff, just beyond which is the narrow pass where the heroic Montgomery fell mortally wounded while gallantly leading his men in a rash and daring attack on the city. Almost directly under the northern end of the Terrace, where the cliff stands back farther from the river, and the streets and buildings huddle closer together, is the historic Church of Notre Dame des Victoire, and a little to the south is the Champlain market hall, and very near its site the first building in Quebec was erected in 1608 by the adventurous and chivalrous Champlain. It included a fort, a residence, and stores. Here was the first clearing made ; the next was that upon a portion of which the Chateau Frontenac now stands, where Champlain erected the Chateau St. Louis, which played so prominent a part in Canadian history, at a later era being the castle whence the French governor exercised undisputed sovereignty from the mouth of the Mississippi to the great inland lakes of Canada, and along the shores of the St. Lawrence and its Gulf. Its cellar still remains under the wooden covering of the present Durham Terrace, immediately adjoining the Chateau Frontenac. In rear of the Chateau St. Louis was the area of the fort now covered by the Place d’Armes and a part of the hotel. This fort was frequently attacked by the intrepid and ferocious Iroquois, who, having overthrown the outposts, more than once threatened the fort itself. 14 HISTORIC QUEBEC. THE CITADEL. THE Citadel occupies the most commanding position in Quebec, overlooking the St. Lawrence and the country round, and having a clear range for its guns in every direction. It stands 303 feet above the river, and at one time was a formidable position of defence, so much so that Quebec, as stated, has sometimes been called the Gibraltar of America. Though still a fortress, its present chief use is as a barrack, and in it are kept immense military stores and arms for 20,000 men. Access is gained to the trenches by the Chain gate, and to the Citadel by the Dalhousie, named after a former Governor. The Citadel is about ten minutes walk from the Chateau Frontenac. THE GOVERNOR’S GARDEN. THE Governor’s garden is a public park a little in rear of the Dufferin Terrace, and close to the Chateau Frontenac. It is a pretty little retreat, and in it is a dual-faced stone column to Wolfe and Mont- calm, erected in 1827 and 1828 in joint honor of the illustrious generals, to whom, in the words of the in- scription, “ Valor gave a common death, history a common fame, and posterity a common monument." HOPE HILL. HISTORIC QUEBEC. 15 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. On the plains are three Martello towers, erected in 1812, which, while formidably built, were weakly constructed towards the city, so that in case of capture they might easily be destroyed. The field of the battle is a short and pleasant walk from the hotel, a little beyond the St. Louis gate, on the road to Spencer Wood, the official residence of the Lieut.-Governor of the Province of Quebec, and in olden days the home of the Governors-General of Canada. A short distance off, on the escarpment overhanging the St. Lawrence, is the path by which the British troops scaled the cliffs on the night before the battle, and at the foot of the rocks is Wolfe’s Cove. HPHE Plains of Abraham, of which * mention has been made, is one of the chief points of interest. Here was the battlefield where Wolfe fell and Montcalm fought his last fight. The plain is the tableland on the crest of the heights on the north bank of the St. Lawrence River, which were thought to be too precipitous for an enemy to climb. The heights were, however, quietly and successfully scaled, and the battle fought on their edge which de- cided the fate of Canada. A monument now stands to mark the spot where Wolfe fell, and bears the inscription : “ Here died Wolfe victorious.” 16 HISTORIC QUEBEC. THE URSULINE CONVENT. THE Ursuline Convent is indirectly connected with this important battle on the Plains of Abraham, by reason of its containing the remains of Montcalm, whose body is buried in the Convent, while his skull is kept in the chaplain’s parlor. This, the oldest convent in Quebec, was founded in 1639. It is open to visitors, who may there see some rare works of art, including paintings by Vandyke and Champagny, the property of the Sisters of the Convent. THE HOTEL DIEU. THE Hotel Dieu, a convent and a hospital, founded by a niece of Cardinal Richelieu, contains some fine pictures. In the chapel of the convent is the skull of Jean de Brebcuf, the great Jesuit missionary, of whose doings Parkman and Charlevoix have given a most interesting and trustworthy account. The establishment is open to visitors on application to the Lady Superior. CHURCH OF NOTRE DAME DES VICTOIRES. THIS historic little edifice is one of the interesting sights of the Lower Town, having been partially destroyed by the fire of the Levis batteries during Wolfe’s siege of Quebec in 1759, and subsequently rebuilt upon its old walls. The fete of Notre Dame de la Victoire was established in sacred commemoration of the defeat of the British invaders under General Phipps in 1690, to be annually celebrated in the church on October 7th, and after the ship- wreck of the second British invading fleet, fourteen years later, which the French inhabitants regarded as a miraculous interposition of Providence in their favor, the edifice was given the name it still bears. THE LAVAL UNIVERSITY. THE Laval University is the chief French University, and the oldest in Canada. Laval grew out of the Seminary of Quebec, founded in 1663, which was liberally endowed by the first Bishops of the See, and it has a museum, library, and many art treasures in its keeping. In its gallery of paintings are two Salvator Rosas, three Teniers, a Romenelli, a Joseph Vernet, a Puget, two Vandykes, a Perocei Poussin, and many other masterpieces. THE CARDINAL’S PALACE. ADJOINING Laval is the palace of His Eminence, Cardinal Taschereau. In its grand salon de reception are the throne of the Cardinal, busts and portraits of all his predeces- sors, and his rare gifts from the Pope. There are many other buildings in Quebec interesting to a visitor who is or who desires to place his mind en rapport with the early history of Canada, and there are modern edifices, such as the Legislative Buildings, custom-house, BREAK NECK STAIRS. HISTORIC QUEBEC. 19 Church Hall, Y. M. C. A. building, court house, armory, and drill hall, etc., and modern public works like the immense tidal basins, which can hardly fail to attract attention. Sauntering about the city the American tourist will constantly meet with curious and unaccustomed architectural sights. The “ Break Neck Steps,” although demolished and replaced by a modern structure, will yet strike him as well deserving their name, and in that portion of the city called “ Sous le Cap ” he will see a great contrast to corresponding portions of any American city he is acquainted with. THREE gates serve to maintain the feudal aspect of the approach to the city from the west. Only one of them, however, is ancient—St. John’s,—the other two, Kent and St. Louis, being modern structures. The foundation of the Kent gate was laid by Princess Louise, and Queen Victoria contributed generously, as it was named in honor of her father, who was at one time commander of the British forces in Canada. The Provincial Government Build- ings, rising majestically from an elevated site, and commanding an admirable view of the surrounding country, are near the St. Louis gate. THE GATES OF THE CITY. HISTORIC RUINS. OVER in the valley of the St. Charles, the gaunt ruins of the famed Chateau Bigot still remain. The tower in which perished by poison, at the instigation of her fair rival, the young Algonquin mistress of the profligate Intendant, still stands in the midst of the forest labyrinth ; but the ruins give only a faint conception of the immensity and grandeur of the original building. ACROSS THE RIVER. FROM Levis a magnificent view of Quebec and its surroundings can be obtained. The military forts, on the heights above, from which, during the summer of 1759, the cannons of the English bom- barded the city with shot and shell until the whole of the Lower Town was a confused mass of ruins, are worth visiting, and so is the Engineers’ camp at St. Joseph de Levis, from which the Falls of Montmo- renci can be seen. Near by is the Government grav- ing dock, a massive piece of masonry. It is a pleasant drive to the Falls of Chaudiere, which may also be reached by train or steamer. En route is Etchemin (or New Liverpool), which possesses one of the hand- somest churches in America, its frescos eliciting the admiration of all who have visited the edifice. THE FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. THESE are situated about eight miles below Que- bec. The drive to them—a favorite trip with all visitors—is through an almost continuous succession of French Canadian farms and cottages. On the road CALECHE DRIVING. HISTORIC QUEBEC. 21 is Beauport, a piace bombarded by Wolfe, and now containing one of the principal Canadian hospitals for the insane. The P'alls of Montmorenci are 100 feet higher than those of Niagara, and in winter a large cone of ice usually forms at the foot. The tourist may also go to Montmorenci by the Quebec, Montmorenci, and Charlevoix Railway. LA BONNE STE. ANNE. THE shrine of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, for 250 years the Mecca of devout pilgrims seeking restoration of health, is twenty-one miles from Quebec, and is reached by the Quebec, Montmorenci, and Charlevoix Railway, or by steamer in summer. Tradition relates that in the early part of the seventeenth century some Breton mariners, who were overtaken by a violent storm while navigating the St. Lawrence, solemnly vowed to Ste. Anne that, if delivered from the dangers which encompassed them, they would erect a sanctuary in her honor on the spot on which they should land. Their prayers being heard, they built a small wooden chapel in fulfilment of their vows, which has since become famous, and which then, as now, was called by her name. The primitive little church was replaced by a larger structure in 1660, which, subsequently rebuilt and enlarged, finally gave way to the present magnificent edifice, and it was raised to the dignity of a Basilica by Pope Pius IX. It is a fine specimen of Corinthian architecture, and is of immense proportions. A colossal statue of Ste. Anne, of marvellous beauty, surmounts the facade between twin towers rising to a great height. The interior of the sacred edifice rivals the most famous cathedrals in the world in beauty and imposing grandeur. On each side of the entrance are large pyramids of crutches and canes HISTORIC QUEBEC. 23 and trusses and splints left by former owners as mute testimony of the saint’s intervention on their behalf. There is also another statue of Ste. Anne, resting on a column of white marble, to which some deeply venerated relics are attached—a fragment of a finger bone of the saint procured by Laval, the first bishop of New France; a part of the saint’s wrist sent by Leo XIII.; and a portion of the rock from the grotto in which Ste. Anne gave birth to the Virgin Mary. The “ sacred stairs,” which the zealous supplicants ascend upon their knees, is built in imitation of Pilate’s Palace at Jerusalem, and the magnificent paintings and statuary represent the life of Christ from Bethlehem to Calvary. Thousands of tourists visit Ste. Anne de Beaupr6 impelled by the curious scenes witnessed there and the costly works of art possessed by the sanctuary; and the high esteem in which the patron saint is held is shown in the remarkable increase in the perennial pilgrimages to her shrine. In 1874 there were 17,200 visitors ; in 1884, 61,000; in 1889, 100,000; in 1893, 130,000; and in 1894 the number was not less than 200,000. Formerly the pilgrimages were from the province of Quebec only; but now they are from the other provinces of Canada and from the United States. LORETTE. LORETTE is another place to which visitors are fond of driving. It is an Indian village on the St. Charles River, about nine miles from Quebec, and there are some beautiful falls in the immediate neighborhood. Here will be found the remnant of the once powerful Hurons, who, after the treacherous massacre of their tribe by the Iroquois, sought refuge near Quebec, and adopting the religion and language of the early French settlers, allied them- 24 HISTORIC QUEBEC. selves with them in resisting the incursions of the common enemy. The village was first settled in 1697. In every direction around Quebec the country affords charming drives, and at the French Canadian villages which occur with more or less frequency, a stranger will be able to compare the peculiarities of life amongst a people who, more than any other in America, have preserved the traditions of their ancestors, with the essentially modern customs and lines of thought which characterize the rural settlements of other parts of the continent. LAKE ST. JOHN. ONE hundred and ninety miles from Quebec, via the Quebec and Lake St. John Railway, through a country whose wild grandeur has earned for it the title of “ The Canadian Adirondacks,” is the great inland sea—Lake St. John. It is a favorite resort for health and pleasure-seekers, Roberval, on the lake, having magnificent hotels. The fishing is excellent. Tourists, in summer, are offered an enjoyable round trip from Quebec to Lake St. John and thence to Chicoutimi by rail, and down the famed Saguenay, whose scenery is awe-inspiring, and back to Quebec by steamer. DOWN THE GULF. A PLEASANT trip down the River and Gulf of St. Lawrence is afforded the visitor to Quebec. Passing Cape Tourmente and Grosse Isle, the quarantine station for Quebec, many islands of remarkable scenic beauty dot HISTORIC QUEBEC. 25 the river. Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, Cacouna, and Tadousac, at the mouth of the Sague- nay, are fashionable watering resorts, with good hotel accommodation and excellent bathing facilities. The trip can be extended down the Gulf to Prince Edward Island and to St. John’s, Newfoundland, Halifax, N. S., and to New York, Boston, and other American ports. QUEBEC IN WINTER. ALTHOUGH Quebec is pre-eminently a charming summer resort, it is not without its attractions in January, when King Carnival holds undisputed sway. Visitors and residents alike then indulge in a wild revelry of fun, rendered all the more enjoyable by the cold, crisp, invigorating air of a Canadian winter, and pass the hours away in exhilarating out-door sports—tobogganing, skating, driving, snowshoeing, hockey, and curling. There are Indian, lumber, and sugar camps picturesquely erected, at which the visitor finds a hearty welcome. The army of devotees of the merry monarch have a right royal time, and, amidst military pageant and storming of ice fortresses aglow with a thousand scintillating lights, enjoy a spectacle that can only be dreamed of as happening in an enchanted fairyland. The days and nights are one continuous round of festivities, to which zest is added by an old- fashioned snowstorm. In these carnival days, the stranger is advised to wrap warmly, if he would participate in the winter pleasures of the snow-mantled “White City of the North,” whose bright, invigorating wintry air is not less delightful in its season than the balmy breezes which waft over the St. Lawrence and make the Ancient Capital an ideal resting-place in the summer time. A very full description of Quebec and environments is contained in “ Illustrated Quebec,” published by John McConniff, Windsor Hotel, Montreal. Price one dollar. CITY OF MONTREAL. MONTREAL, THE COMMERCIAL METROPOLIS. MONTREAL is second only to Quebec in historic interest. It is the head of ocean navigation and yet over 600 miles inland, and is the commercial metropolis and railway centre of the Dominion. Montreal ranks amongst the most beautiful cities of the continent, and has very many attractive and historic spots which cannot fail to interest and delight sight-seers. It is pre-eminently a city of churches, and such magnificent edifices as the cathedrals of Notre Dame and St. James, the latter modelled after St. Peter’s at Rome, the Jesuit Church and College, Bonsecours Church, erected in 1771, the English Cathedral, St. James (Methodist), and St. Paul's and St. Andrew’s (Presbyterian), are worth seeing. Mount Royal, from which the city takes its name, affords a pleasant drive, and from its summit is seen one of the grandest panoramas of the picturesque valley of the St. Lawrence that is obtainable. Beyond the Belceil peaks eastward the Green Mountains of Vermont can be distinguished on clear days; to the south are the Adirondacks, and along the north runs the Laurentian range, oldest of the world’s mountains. Other points of interest are the Victoria Bridge, spanning the St. Lawrence, McGill University, Windsor Station and offices of the Canadian Pacific Railway Co., Nelson Monument, Champ de Mars (the military parade ground of the early days), Dominion Square, with Windsor Hotel; new Royal Victoria Hospital, the city hall, court house, Place d’Armes, Bonsecours Market, etc. A run down the Lachine Rapids and a visit to the curious old Indian village of Caughnawaga, opposite Lachine, the home of the remnant of a once powerful nation, St. Helen’s Island, Mount Royal, or any of the numerous city parks and public buildings is worth making. OTTAWA, THE CAPITAL OF CANADA. A VISITORS to Quebec, via Montreal, can easily reach Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, ’ by the Canadian Pacific or other railways, or by river in summer, the railway run being about four hours from the commercial metropolis. The site of Ottawa for picturesque grandeur, it has been stated, is only second to that of Quebec. It is located on the Ottawa River, where the Rideau and Gatineau join, and where the waters of the first named hurl themselves over the Chaudiere Falls into the seething cauldron below. But it is the national buildings which are the chief pride of Ottawa, and the principal objects of interest to tourists. They stand out boldly on Parliament Hill, overlooking the Ottawa, in all the beauty of seemingly varied architecture. They were erected at a cost of about $5,000,000. The octagonal-shaped library in rear of the Houses of Parliament is one of the most complete in the world and contains 155,000 volumes, some of which are exceedingly rare books. Other objects of interest are Rideau Hall, the home of the Governor-General of Canada, Rideau Canal and Major Hill Park, the city buildings, extensive saw mills, and the timber slides by which the square timber from the Upper Ottawa passes down without damage into the navi- gable waters below. To go down these slides, as nearly every visitor does, is an exciting and exhilarating experience. Opposite Ottawa is the French city of Hull, and combined they have a population of over 60,000. The Citadel Dufferin Terrace Plains of Abraham Chateau Frontenac Martello Towers Governor’s Garden Grand Battery Duke of Kent’s Residence Wolfe’s Monument Montcalm’s Residence Laval University The Esplanade Cardinal’s Palace The City’s Gates V O U French Cathedral Ursuline Convent English Cathedral Parliament Buildings S H O U L D Ladies’ Protestant Home New Court House Short-Wallick Monument Falls of Montmorenci SEE Chateau d’Eau Lake Beauport Beauport Asylum Lorette Lake St. Charles Quebec Seminary Cap Rouge Notre Dame des Victoires Wolfe’s Cove Shrine of Ste. Anne Forts of Levis Chaudiere Falls Sous le Cap Isle d’Orleans PROVINCIAL PARLIAMENT BUILDINGS, QUEBEC. CHATEAU FRONTENAC DUFFERIN TERRACE, QUEBEC, Can. RATES FROM *3.50 TO $5.00 PER DAY. ROOMS SINGLE OR EN SUITE Special Arrangements with Large Parties and Those Making Prolonged Visits FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ADDRESS MANAGER, CHATEAU FRONTENAC, QUEBEC. PIIDI IP ATIHMC ISSUED Hanadian PACIFIC UDLIbA I IUNO bythe || RAILWAY COMPANY “The New Highway to the Orient” “ Summer Tours ” "Fishing and Shooting” " Westward to the Far East ” A Guide to the Principal Cities of Japan and China "Time-Table with Notes” " Alaska ” "Around the World” " Across Canada to Australia ” " Banff and the Lakes in the Clouds” of these publications are handsomely illustrated, and contain much useful information in interesting shape. “Time-Table with Notes” will be found a valuable companion for all Transcontinental travellers. Copies may be obtained FREE from Agents of the Company, or will be mailed to any address on application to undersigned. The Company has also published a new map, on the polar projection, showing the whole of the northern hemisphere, and the Canadian Pacific Railway’s Around the World Route in a novel and interesting way, and another of Canada and the Northern half of the United States, showing the entire system of the Company in detail. These maps will be given away for public and prominent display. The Company now have on sale, in their hotels, principal ticket offices, and on the * trains, several series of handsomely-finished views of scenes along their line of rail- , way. Size: 10 by 12 inches, in portfolios suitable for the table (twelve views in each series), Price $1.50; and views, 22 by 28 inches, suitable for framing (three views in the set), in mailing tube, Price,- $t.oo. W. R. CALLAWAY, G. McL. BROWN, C. SHEEHY, District Passenger Agent, District Passenger Agent, ' , District Passenger Agent, i King St., East, Toronto. Vancouver, B. C. ii Fort St. W., Detroit, Mich. C. E. MCPHERSON, E. V. SKINNER, M. M. STERN, Ass’t General Passenger Agent, General Eastern Agent, District Passenger Agent, 197 Washington St., Boston, 353'Broadway, N. \ . Chronicle Bldg., San Francisco. and St. John, N. B. C. B. HIBBARD, General Passenger Agent, Soo & South Shore Lines, Minneapolis. J. F. LEE, ARCHER BAKER, D. E. BROWN, District Passenger Agent, European Traffic Agent, General Agent China, Japan, etc. 232 South Clark St., Chicago, III. 67 and 6S King William St., E. C. and Hong Kong ROBERT KERR, 3° Cockspur St., S. W„ London, Eng. q e> £ USSHER, General Passenger Agent, 7 James St., Liverpool. Ass’t General Passenger Agent, W. & P. Divisions, Winnipeg, Montreal. D. McNICOLL, General Passenger Agent, Montreal.